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Free Knitting Pattern Lion Brand Baby's First Fairy Tale Cardi

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100% found this document useful (1 vote)
446 views4 pages

Free Knitting Pattern Lion Brand Baby's First Fairy Tale Cardi

knit

Uploaded by

knova
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Free Knitting Pattern Lion Brand Baby's First Fairy Tale Cardi

TM

Pattern Number: L0008

Free Knitting Pattern from Lion Brand Yarn Lion Brand Baby's First Fairy Tale Cardi
TM

Pattern Number: L0008


SKILL LEVEL: Easy + SIZE: 0-6 months (6 -12 months, 12 -18 months, 2-3 years) Finished Chest 18 1/2 (21, 23 1/2, 26 1/2) in. (47 (53.5, 59.5, 67.5) cm), buttoned Finished Length 9 1/2 (10 1/2, 12, 13 1/2) in. (24 (26.5, 30.5, 34.5) cm) Note Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning. CORRECTIONS: None as of Oct 16, 2010. To check for later updates, click here . MATERIALS 925-156 Lion Brand Baby's First Yarn: Beanstalk 1 1, 1, 2 Ball (A) 925-101 Lion Brand Baby's First Yarn: Twinkle Toes 1 1, 1, 2 Ball (B) 925-103 Lion Brand Baby's First Yarn: Fairy Tale 1 1, 1, 2 Ball (C) Lion Brand Knitting Needles - Size 10.5 [6.5 mm] Lion Brand Stitch Holders Lion Brand Split Ring Stitch Markers Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6) Additional Materials 4 buttons, 1 in. (2.5 cm) diameter Extra knitting needle in size 10.5 (6.5 mm), or slightly smaller (for 3 -needle bind off) GAUGE:

12 sts + 18 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
STITCH EXPLANATION:

kfb (knit in front and back) Knit next st without removing it from left needle, then k through back of same st - 1 st increased. yo A yarn over (yo) creates a new loop on your needle and is worked by wrapping the yarn around your right hand needle. Do not use an existing stitch to make a yarn over. The finished yarn over will leave an open space (like an eyelet) in your knitting in this design, the open space creates a buttonhole.

NOTES:

1. Body is worked in one piece from lower edge up to armholes. The piece is then divided and fronts and back are worked separately to shoulders. 2. Front bands and back neck border are worked as part of the fronts and back. 3. A 3-needle bind off is used at shoulders to create a strong and attractive join. If you would prefer to seam shoulders, simply bind off the shoulder sts and sew shoulders.
COLOR SEQUENCE BODY: Work 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/2) in. (7.5 (9, 10, 11.5) cm) each with A and B, then continue with C only. SLEEVES: Work 2 (2 1/2, 3, 3 1/2) in. (5 (6.5, 7.5, 9) cm) each with A and B, then continue with C only. BODY With A, cast on 58 (66, 74, 82) sts. Knit 4 rows for lower edge. Row 1 Buttonhole Row (RS): K1, k2tog, yo, (buttonhole) k1, place marker (pm), k to last 4 sts, pm, k4. Next Row (WS): K4, slip marker (sm), p to last 4 sts, sm, k4.

Notes: 1. The markers mark the placement of the front bands; continue to slip the markers on each row. 2. Beg with Row 1, change color following Color Sequence. Next Row: Knit. Rep last 2 rows, keeping first and last 4 sts in Garter st (k every row) and rem sts in St st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures 2 (2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 3/4) in. (5 (5.5, 6.5, 7) cm) from beg, end with a WS row. Note: End with a WS row means that the last row you work should be a WS row, and the next row that you are ready to work will be a RS row. Next Row (RS): Rep Buttonhole Row. Next Row: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4. Next Row: Knit. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/2) in. (7.5 (9, 10, 11.5) cm) from beg, end with a WS row. Next Row (RS): Rep Buttonhole Row. Next Row: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4. Next Row: Knit. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 4 (4 3/4, 5 1/2, 6 1/4) in. (10 (12, 14, 16) cm) from beg, end with a WS row. Next Row (RS): Rep Buttonhole Row. Next Row: K4, p to last 4 sts, k4. Next Row: Knit. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 5 (5 1/2, 6 1/2, 7 1/2) in. (12.5 (14, 16.5, 19) cm) from beg, end with a WS row. Divide for Fronts and Back Next Row (RS): K16 (18, 20, 22) sts and sl onto a holder for right front, k26 (30, 34, 38) sts and sl onto a holder for back, k16 (18, 20, 22) sts rem on your needle for left front. Left Front Note: Continue in Color Sequence as established. Work over the 16 (18, 20, 22) left front sts only. Next Row (WS): K4, purl to end. Shape Neck Note: You will be shaping the neck by decreasing sts inside the front band to shape the neck. Next Row: Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, k4 - 15 (17, 19, 21) sts at the end of this row. Rep last 2 rows until 8 (9, 11, 12) sts rem, end with a RS row. Next Row (WS): K4, purl to end of row . Next Row: Knit. Rep last 2 rows until left front measures 9 1/2 (10 1/2, 12, 13 1/2) in. (24 (26.5, 30.5, 34.5) cm) from beg. Sl rem 8 (9, 11, 12) sts to a holder for shoulder. If you would rather sew the shoulders, bind off these 8 (9, 11, 12) sts instead. Back With WS facing, sl the 26 (30, 34, 38) back sts from holder back to your needle and join yarn. Beg with a WS row, work in St st until piece measures 8 1/2 (9 1/2, 11, 12 1/2) in. (21.5 (24, 28, 32) from beg, end with a RS row. Next Row (WS): P4 (5, 7, 8), k18 (20, 20, 22) (for back neck border), p4 (5, 7, 8). Next Row: Knit. Rep last 2 rows once more. Next Row (WS): P4 (5, 7, 8), k18 (20, 20, 22), p4 (5, 7, 8). Next Row (RS): K8 (9, 11,12) sts and slip to a holder for shoulder, bind off next 10 (12, 12, 14) sts; k last 8 (9, 11,12) sts and sl to a holder for shoulder. Right Front With WS facing, sl right front sts from holder back to your needle and join yarn. Shape Neck Next Row (WS): Purl to 2 sts before marker, p2tog, k4 - 15 (17, 19, 21) sts at the end of this row. Next Row: Knit. Rep last 2 rows until 8 (9, 11,12) sts rem, end with a RS row. Next Row (WS): Purl to last 4 sts, k4. Next Row: Knit. Rep last 2 rows until right front measures 9 1/2 (10 1/2, 12, 13 1/2) in. (24 (26.5, 30.5, 34.5) cm) from beg. Sl rem 8 (9, 11, 12) sts to a holder for shoulder.

SLEEVE (make 2) Note: Change color following Color Sequence for Sleeves. With A, cast on 18 (20, 22, 24) sts. Knit 4 rows for wrist edge of Sleeve. Next 3 Rows: Beg with a WS row, work 3 rows in St st. Next (Inc) Row (RS): K1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 - 20 (22, 24, 26) sts at the end of this row. Rep last 4 rows until there are 26 (30, 34, 38) sts, then work in St st and Color Sequence until Sleeve measures 6 (7 1/2, 9, 10 1/2) in. (15 (19, 23, 26.5) cm) from beg. Bind off loosely.

FINISHING Join front shoulders to back shoulders by working a 3 needle bind off as follows: Sl the shoulder sts from the left front back to knitting needle. Sl the sts from the left back shoulder sts onto a 2nd needle. With RS of the front and back together (the WS of each piece will be facing out), hold in one hand the 2 needles with an equal number of sts on each. With 3rd needle, knit tog 1 st from each needle, *knit tog 1 st from each needle, pass first st worked over 2nd to bind off, rep from * across. Cut working yarn and pull through last st to secure. Sew Sleeve seams. Sew in Sleeves. Sew buttons on left front band opposite buttonholes. Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
Click for explanation and illustration

beg = begin(s)(ning) k2tog = knit 2 together p2tog = purl 2 together rem = remain(s)(ing) RS = right side sm = slip marker st(s) = stitch(es) WS = wrong side

k = knit p = purl Pm = place marker rep = repeat(s)(ing) sl = slip St st = Stockinette stitch tog = together yo = yarn over

Learn to knit instructions: http://learnToKnit.LionBrand.com

Every effort has been made to have the knitting and crochet instructions accurate and complete. We cannot be responsible for variance of individual knitters and crocheters, human errors, or typographical mistakes.

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