Georgeanne

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Brennan
the complete guide
with 100 recipes for
7 cooking with cheese CHEESE
obsession

CHEESE obsession
Inspirational and information-packed,
Cheese Obsession is an indispensable guide to
enjoying this versatile and beloved ingredient,
Georgeanne Brennan first learned about both in the kitchen and at the table.
Cheese lovers

CHEESE
cheese in the 1970s, when she purchased a
This luscious collection, with more than
farmhouse in Provence. She soon found herself take note!
raising goats, making cheese from their milk, and 100 recipes for every course, presents ways
selling her handcrafted chèvre at local outdoor Delicious recipes to cook with all types of cheese, whether
markets. Now based in Winters, California, she is for every course, rich and creamy, oozy and pungent, or nutty
surrounded by many fine local varieties, and still
from stunning starters and sharp. All the classics are here, from
savors her favorite cheeses in France on frequent
visits to her home there. Brennan’s many award-
to cheesy pastas mac and cheese and fondue to enchiladas and
and desserts. burgers. You’ll also discover innovative dishes

obsession
winning cookbooks reflect her broad knowledge
of both European and domestic cheeses and her like fried pecorino with stone-fruit salsa, squash
passion for cooking with them. salad with gooey Teleme and toasted pepitas,
roast chicken stuffed with Gruyère, oven-roasted
Maren Caruso lives in San Francisco and has 7 endive with Saint-Marcellin, and tangy plum
photographed over 50 cookbooks, including
several titles in the Williams-Sonoma Collection tart spiked with ginger and chèvre. Descriptions

cooking with cheese

with 100 recipes for
the complete guide
series and Chocolate Obsession, winner of an IACP of over 150 of the world’s most celebrated cheese
best food photography award. Her photographs varieties, tips on pairing with wine or beer, ideas
have also appeared in Saveur, Gourmet, and
for putting together the perfect cheese plate, and
Food & Wine magazines.
recipes for sweet and savory accompaniments

Georgeanne round out this definitive resource for aficionados

ISBN 13: 978-1-61628-498-5
ISBN 10: 1-61628-498-6 Brennan seeking new and delicious ways to showcase
their favorite food.
Printed in China
www.weldonowen.com
9 781 616 28 4985
Every cheese—and more than three thousand different kinds
are made around the world—has its own distinct appearance,
texture, aroma, and taste. Those unique qualities owe something
to the maker, of course, but also to the land—lush alpine grasses
or meadows, valley oaks or pines—on which the animals that
produce the milk graze. Cheeses even taste different depending
on the season. Many years ago, when I raised goats in Provence,
the cheese I made from their milk was richer and creamier in
spring when they were feeding on the fresh green grasses and
early, tender oak leaves. With the arrival of the hot Mediterranean
summer, the grasses dried, and the goats turned to wild thyme
and more mature leaves for sustenance. The cheese made during
“Great cheese,
those warm days was tangier and less sweet than its springtime
like great wine,
counterpart. Recognizing that difference made me appreciate
not only the skill that goes into making cheese, but also the role
tastes of the
played by both nature and the farmer who cares for the animals terroir—of the
that produce the milk. land, the climate,
the place where
Not surprisingly, given my early days as a goatherd and cheese
it was produced.
maker, cheese is part of almost every meal I prepare, whether
presented as its own course, grated atop a salad, swirled into
Also like wine,
risotto, melted over vegetables, or served with fruit for dessert. cheese is evocative
It can also be reason for its own occasion: sampling a special and sensual,
cheese and a good wine with friends is one of life’s pleasures, drawing all of
which I savor as often as possible. Indeed, a wedge of great the senses into
cheese is a wonderful way to bring friends and family together.
a rich gustatory
experience.”
about cheese

I came to truly understand and appreciate cheese while living in southern

France. That rugged landscape still bears visual traces of the Roman
occupation, and I was fascinated by the ancient history that links a story
of conquest with one of the most beloved of French foods.

history Centuries later, urbanization brought mass-market

The Romans, in fact, first brought cheese to food manufacturing and less need for small farms.
France. But cheese spans back even earlier than The Industrial Revolution saw the opening of the
the Roman Empire, thousands of years before first cheese factories, and two world wars ushered
I raised my goats in modern-day Provence. The in an era in which large-scale production would
invention of cheese predates written records; it outstrip natural products. This was particularly true
is believed to have occurred in the Middle East in the United States, home to a vast cattle industry.
or Central Asia around the same time that sheep
were first domesticated. Herders and farmers artisanal cheese making
discovered that curdling and fermenting milk Today, the steadily growing artisanal movement
was a useful way to prevent it from spoiling and in cheese making has brought the cycle full circle,
to stock protein-rich food for the winter months. returning us to the farm and the cave. Although
It was the ancient Greeks who penned the earliest handcrafted local cheeses have long been
descriptions of cheese making; by Roman times, heralded abroad, only in the last decade have
fashioning cheeses had become a culinary art. small-batch producers appeared in significant
numbers in North America. Now in the dairy case,
After the fall of Rome, production techniques
you’ll find cheeses from big factories alongside
continued to be refined in Europe. In medieval
specialty cheeses by regional makers. Some may
times, cheeses were routinely crafted on single-
be farmstead cheeses, produced from the milk
family farms and in monasteries. Monks in
of a single farm—not unlike a single-vineyard
particular became known for their innovations
designation by a winemaker. Connoisseurs swoon
in the creation and storage of substantial, tasty
over the unique flavor and texture of each of the
cheeses, which they routinely consumed during
hundreds of varieties now available. Yet cheese
their long meatless fasts. In many areas of Europe,
also remains an important staple in the home
caves were used for aging, and today these natural
kitchen, both as an ingredient in countless dishes
storage vaults remain essential to the production
and as the star on its own plate.
of certain cheeses, most famously Roquefort.

8 introduction
spring cheese plates SERVES 4– 6

In spring, cheeses are particularly mild, thanks to the animals’ diet

of tender greens. Assemble a trio of cheeses made from different milks,
or showcase two soft, creamy cheeses alongside cherries to celebrate
the season. A dry Bandol-style rosé will complement either plate.

apricots, almonds, and a trio of cheeses

6–8 oz (185–250 g) About 2 hours before serving, remove the cheeses from the
fresh goat’s milk cheese refrigerator, unwrap them, and allow them to come to room temperature.
6–8 oz (185–250 g)
sheep’s milk cheese such When ready to serve, arrange the cheeses, apricot slices, and almonds
as pecorino pepato
on a cutting board, marble slab, or platter. Include a spreader for the
6–8 oz (185–250 g) soft cheese and a paring knife for each of the other cheeses. Serve with
semifirm cow’s milk cheese
baguette rounds, thin slices of dark bread, or crackers, if desired.
such as tomme de Savoie

2 apricots or peaches,
thinly sliced

⁄ 2 cup (3 oz/90 g) almonds

1

cherries with triple-cream cheeses

2 triple-cream cheeses, About 2 hours before serving, remove the cheeses from the
6–8 oz (185–250 g) each, refrigerator, unwrap them, and allow them to come to room temperature.
such as La Tur or Mt Tam

6–8 oz (185–250 g) When ready to serve, arrange the cheeses and cherries on a cutting
soft-ripened cow’s milk
board, marble slab, or platter. Include a paring knife or soft-cheese knife
cheese such as Brie
for each cheese. Serve with baguette rounds, thin slices of dark bread,
⁄ 2 lb (8 oz/250 g) cherries
1

or crackers, if desired.

26 the cheese course

cranberry-pear chutney MAKES 3 CUPS
(30 oz /940 g)

Fruit chutney flavored with aromatic spices pairs well with almost any
type of cheese, young or aged. Both cow’s milk and aged sheep’s milk
cheeses are good choices, but this tangy chutney is also superb served
slathered atop fresh ricotta or soft goat cheese.

1 cup (6 oz/185 g) In a nonreactive saucepan, combine the onion, apple cider, orange
minced white onion juice, cider vinegar, juniper berries, lemon zest, orange zest, cinnamon
1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) stick, and cloves. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat
apple cider
to medium, and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until reduced to
⁄4 cup (6 fl oz/180 ml)
3
11⁄ 2 cups (12 fl oz/375 ml), 10–15 minutes.
fresh orange juice

2 Tbsp cider vinegar Stir in the brown sugar until it dissolves, about 2 minutes. Add the
4 juniper berries cranberries and pears and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and
1 Tbsp coarsely
simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the flavors have blended,
grated lemon zest 20–30 minutes. The fruit will be quite soft.
1 Tbsp coarsely
grated orange zest Pour the chutney into a jar or bowl and stir with a fork, crushing some,
but not all, of the fruit. Let cool completely before serving. The chutney
1 cinnamon stick,
11⁄ 2 inches (4 cm) long can be tightly covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Bring to room
6 whole cloves
temperature before serving.

11⁄4 cups (9 oz/280 g) firmly

packed light brown sugar 7
1 bag (12 oz/375 g)
fresh cranberries
(about 3 cups)
serve with cheese
Parmigiano-Reggiano, aged pecorino, Taleggio,
2 Bosc or other firm but soft goat cheese, or Camembert
ripe pears, peeled, halved,
cored, and cut into 1-inch
(2.5-cm) cubes
serve with wine
A medium-bodied red such as Barbera or Côtes du Rhône

34 the cheese course

 starters

My daughter-in-law has been learning to

make cheese at her small homestead in Northern
California, and I am the lucky beneficiary. She brings me
samples of her Camembert and hand-pulled mozzarella,
as well as crocks of her deliciously tart and tangy lightly
peppered goat cheese. For an easy starter, I like to slather
her homemade chèvre on crostini, then add chopped
kumquats and fresh thyme, both picked in the garden
that lies just outside my kitchen door.
grilled nectarines
with soft cheese
SERVES 4

When nectarines are grilled, they caramelize slightly and lose a bit of
their tartness. A ripe, soft cheese with a near-oozing center, such as Brie or
Camembert, or a triple-cream cheese like Brillat-Savarin, makes a delicate
pairing for stone fruits. This dish is one of my summertime favorites.

4 nectarines Preheat a grill to medium-high and oil the grill rack.

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Cut each nectarine in half and remove the pit. Brush the nectarine halves
6 oz (185 g) soft cheese
with the olive oil. Place on the hot grill and grill, turning once or twice,
(see note)
until lightly marked and the surface of the fruit begins to caramelize,
about 5 minutes. (Alternatively, preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C.
Arrange the nectarine halves in a single layer in a shallow baking dish
and roast, turning several times, until shiny and juicy, 5–7 minutes.)

To serve, arrange 2 grilled nectarine halves on each individual plate.

Divide the cheese equally among the plates and serve at once.

7
serving idea
Slice small wedges of cheese and serve alongside the fruit or, if the cheese
is particularly ripe, scoop spoonfuls into the cavities of the nectarine halves.

serve with wine

Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, or sparkling wine, such as prosecco or cava

60 starters
zucchini blossoms MAKES 18

stuffed with ricotta

STUFFED BLOSSOMS

The Italians are so fond of stuffed squash blossoms that they have
developed zucchini varieties that produce large, strong blooms. I have
such blossoms in my garden all summer. They can be stuffed with many
different cheeses, but I adore the delicate taste of whole-milk ricotta.

18 large zucchini blossoms, Remove the stamen from the center of each blossom. Gently wash and
stems intact pat dry the blossoms. Spoon a heaping teaspoon of the ricotta into the
⁄ 2 cup (4 oz/125 g) fresh
1
center of each blossom. Twist the tips of the petals closed and set aside.
whole-milk ricotta cheese

11⁄ 2 cups (71⁄ 2 oz/235 g) In a bowl, whisk together the flour and fine sea salt. Add the olive oil,
all-purpose flour egg, and 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) water and whisk to make a batter.
1 tsp fine sea salt
Pour the canola oil into a deep sauté pan to a depth of 2 inches
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
(5 cm). Heat over medium-high heat until it reaches 375°F (190°C)
1 large egg, lightly beaten
on a deep-frying thermometer. One at a time, gently slip the stuffed
Canola oil for frying
blossoms into the batter and turn to coat evenly. Using a slotted spatula,
Fried fresh flat-leaf parsley lift the blossoms from the batter, allowing the excess to drip off, and
sprigs for serving (optional)
carefully lower into the hot oil. Fry in batches of 4 or 5, spacing them
Coarse sea salt for sprinkling about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart and turning once if needed to brown
evenly, until golden brown, 1–2 minutes. Using the spatula, transfer
to paper towels to drain.

If making the fried parsley garnish, when all of the blossoms are cooked,
add the parsley sprigs to the hot oil and fry just until lightly crisped, about
30 seconds. Transfer to the paper towels to drain.

Sprinkle the zucchini blossoms with the coarse sea salt and top with the
parsley, if desired. Serve at once.

7
try different cheeses
Soft goat cheese, feta, or fresh mozzarella

serve with wine

A sparkling wine, light-bodied white, or medium-bodied red
78 starters
cheddar and ale soup SERVES 4– 6
with crispy shallots

This warming soup conjures English pub fare. The ale and seasonings add
an aromatic and spicy tang that tempers the richness of the cheese. For
the best flavor, use an extra-sharp Cheddar. Be careful not to let the soup
boil once the cheese has been added, or it can cause the soup to be grainy.

1
⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) In a frying pan over medium-high heat, warm the canola oil. Add the
canola oil shallots and cook, turning once or twice, until crisp and golden, about
4–6 shallots, thinly sliced 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl and set aside.
2 yellow waxy potatoes
Cut the potatoes into 1⁄2-inch (12-mm) cubes; chop the onion, celery,
1 yellow onion
and carrots. In a saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the butter.
2 ribs celery
Add the potatoes, onion, celery, carrots, and garlic, reduce the heat to
2 carrots, peeled medium-low, and cook, stirring, until the onion, celery, and carrots have
4 Tbsp (2 oz/60 g) softened and the potatoes are almost tender, 7–10 minutes. Sprinkle
unsalted butter
the vegetables with the flour, salt, paprika, and cayenne and stir until the
1 clove garlic, minced flour is lightly browned. Slowly add the milk, scraping up any bits clinging
1
⁄ 3 cup (2 oz/60 g) to the bottom of the pan. Pour in the cream, broth, ale, Worcestershire
all-purpose flour sauce, and mustard, whisking constantly. Raise the heat to medium and
1 tsp sea salt continue to cook, stirring, to allow the flavors to blend, about 5 minutes;
⁄ 2 tsp paprika
1 be careful not to let the mixture boil. Add in the cheese and cook, stirring,
⁄ 8 tsp cayenne pepper
1 until the cheese has just melted, 2–3 minutes.

2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml)

Remove from the heat and purée with an immersion blender or purée
whole milk
in batches in a regular blender. Reheat just until steaming. Ladle into
1
⁄ 2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml)
heavy cream warmed bowls, garnish with the crispy shallots, and serve at once.

11⁄ 2 cups (12 fl oz/375 ml)

low-sodium chicken broth 7
1 bottle (12 fl oz/375 ml) ale

1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce serve with wine or beer

1 tsp dry mustard A full-bodied red, crisp white, brown ale, or hoppy IPA

1 lb (500 g)
Cheddar cheese, shredded

soups & salads 91

 mains

Cheese is a common addition to many

main dishes I regularly cook, such as pastas,
enchiladas, and roasted chicken, to name a few. As it
melts and binds with the other ingredients, it delivers
a wealth of flavor and complexity. I also like to vary
some favorite dishes by changing the cheese, such as
trading out a velvety Gorgonzola for a sharp Cheddar in
macaroni and cheese, or a nutty Fontina for a mildly
pungent Taleggio in a creamy risotto.
cheese fondue SERVES 4– 6

I am so glad that cheese fondue has once again become fashionable.

Paired with a simple green salad and crisp white wine, it makes a
convivial winter meal. Here, the combination of piquant Emmentaler
with stronger, creamier Gruyère yields a fondue that’s rich and flavorful.

6 cloves garlic If using a ceramic fondue pot, set the oven to 250°F (120°C) and put
2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) the fondue pot in the oven to warm. If using a metal fondue pot, skip
dry white wine such as this step. Fill the burner of the fondue pot with denatured alcohol.
Sauvignon Blanc

13⁄4 lb (875 g) Crush the garlic with a garlic press or grate with a grater and put into
Gruyère cheese, shredded a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan or directly into the metal fondue pot.
3
⁄4 lb (375 g) Emmentaler Add the wine and place the pan over high heat. As soon as bubbles form
cheese, shredded around the edges, after about 2 minutes, reduce the heat to medium-
2 Tbsp kirsch low and add the cheeses, a little at a time, stirring with a wooden spoon.
1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the cheese melts completely
⁄ 2 tsp freshly ground
1 into a smooth, creamy mass. Stir in the kirsch, nutmeg, and pepper.
white pepper
To serve, light the burner of the fondue pot and place it on the table.
11⁄ 2 day-old baguettes
or equivalent amount of Pour the hot fondue from the saucepan into the warmed ceramic pot,
artisanal nut, herb, or or transfer the metal fondue pot directly to the burner. Set out fondue
whole-grain bread, cut into
forks and pass the bread cubes.
1
⁄ 2-inch (12-mm) cubes

7
try different cheeses
Use an equal amount of grated Beaufort for the Gruyère. Use an equal
amount of mild, soft blue such as Blue Castello or Montbriac, raclette,
or a triple cream such as Brillat-Savarin for the Emmentaler.

serve with wine

Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, or an Alsatian Gewürztraminer for white
or Brunello, Pinot Noir, or Burgundy for red

mains 119
cho colate cupcakes with MAKES 24

fromage blanc swirls CUPCAKES

These light, ethereal cupcakes are easy to make and not too sweet.
Small children, including my granddaughter Oona, love to do the
swirling part. The fromage blanc adds a wonderful creaminess to the
batter, and a savory tang and visual intrigue to the finished cupcake.

FOR THE SWIRL Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line 24 standard muffin cups with
1
⁄4 cup (2 oz/60 g) sugar paper liners. To make the swirl, in a bowl, beat together the sugar and

2 Tbsp butter,
butter until smooth. Beat in the egg until incorporated, then add the flour
at room temperature and fromage blanc and again beat until smooth. Set aside.
1 large egg
To make the batter, in a bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking
1 Tbsp all-purpose flour
soda, and salt. In a second bowl, beat together the sour cream, butter,
2
⁄3 cup (5 oz/155 g) and vanilla until smooth. Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over
fromage blanc
(but not touching) simmering water in a saucepan and stir until melted
and smooth. Let cool, 1–2 minutes. Add the sour cream mixture, eggs,
FOR THE BATTER
and 1⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) hot water to the flour mixture and beat just
13⁄4 cups (9 oz/280 g)
all-purpose flour until smooth, then beat in the chocolate until incorporated.

11⁄4 cups (10 oz/315 g)

Spoon the batter into the muffin cups, filling each two-thirds to three-
sugar
fourths full and reserving about 1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) of the batter. Top
1 tsp baking soda
each cup with a generous tablespoon of the cheese swirl mixture. Using
⁄ 2 tsp salt
1
a knife, dip into the chocolate batter under the cheese mixture, bring a
1 cup (8 oz/250 g) bit up, and twist it into a swirl. Then dot the top of each cup with about
sour cream
1 teaspoon of the reserved 1⁄2 cup batter and twist again. Bake the
6 Tbsp (3 oz/90 g) butter, cupcakes until puffed and a toothpick inserted into the middle comes
at room temperature, cut
out clean, 15–20 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack before
into 1⁄ 2-inch (12-mm) pieces
removing from the muffin cups.
1 tsp vanilla extract

3 oz (90 g) 70 percent
cacao bittersweet chocolate, 7
coarsely chopped

2 large eggs try different cheeses

Fresh whole-milk ricotta or mascarpone

desserts 191
 415 Jackson Street, Suite 200, San Francisco, CA 94111
Telephone: 415 291 0100 Fax: 415 291 8841
www.weldonowen.com

Weldon Owen is a division of

CHEESE OBSESSION
Conceived and produced by Weldon Owen, Inc.
Copyright © 2010 Weldon Owen, Inc. and Williams-Sonoma, Inc.
This book was previously published as Williams-Sonoma Cheese
All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction
in whole or in part in any form.

Printed and bound in China by 1010 Printing

This edition printed in 2012
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication

data is available.

ISBN 13: 978-1-61628-498-5

ISBN 10: 1-61628-498-6

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Weldon Owen wishes to thank the following people for their generous support in producing this book:
Alison Attenborough, Kimberly Chun, Ken DellaPenta, Julie Nelson, Carrie Neves, Leigh Noe,
Sarah Putman Clegg, Sharon Silva, and Sharron Wood

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS
All photographs by Maren Caruso except:
Pages 13 (bottom right) and 88 (top left) by Anna Williams, page 54 (upper left) by Tucker + Hossler