Tree Planting
Tree Planting
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Setting A Goal
Recruiting Volunteers
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Tree Stats
Contents
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Rx for Trees
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34 V. Sources
October 2003
I.
Why Plant Trees?
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rees are one of the most beneficial legacies that we can leave to future generations. Not
only do trees beautify our surroundings and raise property values, they clean the air, protect
us from the elements, and save electricity.
Planting trees as a community creates pride and gives children and adults input into the landscape
of a community or city. We hope this collection of materials will help you as community leaders to
organize, plan, and effectively carry out a Community Tree Planting event that will benefit everyone
now and in the future.
Tree Stats
The net cooling effect of a young, healthy tree is equivalent to ten room-size air
conditioners operating 20 hours a day. -U.S. Department of Agriculture
Trees can boost the market value of your home by an average of 6 or 7 percent.
-Dr. Lowell Ponte
One acre of forest absorbs six tons of carbon dioxide and puts out four tons of
oxygen. This is enough to meet the annual needs of 18 people. -U.S. Department of
Agriculture.
There are about 60-to 200- million spaces along our city streets where trees
could be planted. This translates to the potential to absorb 33 million more tons of
CO2 every year, and saving $4 billion in energy costs. -National Wildlife Federation
Trees properly placed around buildings can reduce air conditioning needs by 30
percent and can saves 20 - 50 percent in energy used for heating. -USDA Forest
Service.
Shade from trees could save up to $175 per year (per structure) in air conditioning
costs. -Dr. Lowell Ponte
The planting of trees means improved water quality, resulting in less runoff and
erosion. This allows more recharging of the ground water supply. Wooded areas help
prevent the transport of sediment and chemicals into streams. -USDA Forest
Service.
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II.
Planning Your Project
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Setting A Goal
As you decide the logistics of the community tree planting, remember you can achieve other
community goals at the same time. For example, if you have wanted to provide an opportunity to
involve youth in an activity, mobilize community Seniors, or help neighbors get to know each other, a
Community Tree Planting Day can provide an excellent opportunity to achieve your community goals as
well as beautify your surroundings.
It seems like a big task, but tree planting projects involving thousands of volunteers take place each
year. However, each planting project has a timeline--a road map that describes how to get from an
idea to a completed project.
Set a date and time when and where everything will happen
Set a budget How much is it going to cost? How can we get things donated?
(ex:trees, water for volunteers, trash bags or tools for planting)
Publicize the event letting others know about the good things you are doing in your
neighborhood.
Answer other questions- Be prepared for last minute changes and unexpected
mishaps (ex: people showing up late or not at all, having a small first aid kit
ready for minor accidents, and are you having your event rain or shine?)
Like so many planting projects, yours probably started with a simple idea that grew and grew.
Now its time to turn the idea into action. This information will hopefully help you plan a
strategy and carry out a project.
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Determine the drainage capability. Dig a hole two feet deep and fill it with water.
If the water does not drain at the rate of one inch per hour, select species that can
withstand wet roots or select a different site. Topography can affect drainage at the
site. Note flat and steep areas and determine if erosion or washout is a problem.
2. Get information about soil testing from the Texas Forest Service. The following soil
properties should be tested:
pH
water-holding capacity
micronutrients
macronutrients
texture
organic matter
Finding Out the Past And Future Uses for The Land
Ask these questions before you decide on the site:
Will people walk through the planting zone or use it for other recreational activities?
Are their any community members who know the history of the site who you can involve in
in the site plan design?
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What were the site's prior uses, and will that prior use constrain your tree planting
needs?
Inspect the site for existing structures that could restrict canopy or root
development, such as buildings, sidewalks, roads, paths, or overhead utility lines.
Do not plant trees where they will block streetlights, signs, or fire hydrants.
If the site you have decided on does have an existing structure that you want to plant
around, ask a forester or arborist to help you select a species that is low growing and
has an appropriate root system for the site.
If you have determined the site is suitable, you are ready to begin planning your tree planting
by selecting the species to plant and preparing the site. For additional help, contact the Texas
Forest Service or City of Houston Urban Forestry Division. See last page 33 for phone numbers.
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Recruiting Volunteers
What To Consider When Recruiting Volunteers
Before starting a recruitment program, answer these questions:
Ask! People who are asked to volunteer are more likely to volunteer than those who are
not asked.
Use the media. Place a notice in a local newspaper or on a radio station. See page 9,
Planning Media Relations.
Give posters announcing your event to local businesses and community centers.
Use direct mail, E-mail, fax, and the Internet to create public awareness of your event.
Tell local businesses. Many businesses like to participate in volunteer days as company
activity events.
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a lawyer
a volunteer coordinator
a reporter or writer
an engineer
a well-connected businessperson
With a team like that and access to major funders, you are ready to play in the big leagues. With
assured exposure through major media outlets, you will be able to set up a tree planting program
that will be long-lived and supported by an official network.
For your first project, youll probably have to settle for a handful of committed individuals who
you can trust to show up when theyre needed. However, keep a list of everyone who expressed an
interest during your initial canvassing.
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Newspapers:
Local newspapers are a great way for community organizations to tell their stories. For coverage of
local events in your community, contact the City Editor of your local paper.
Ask first if the editor is on deadline, or if she/he can spare a few minutes. If you are asked to call
back, ask when. When you do talk to the City Editor, give your name, describe your group and the
activities you do in the community. Explain where your membership comes from. Ask the editor what
she/he looks for in selecting stories and what can your group do to obtain coverage. Find out how soon
they will need your information.This editor will decide what gets covered, so heed his/her advice.
Also consider calling the Photo Editor of the paper. The Photo Editor assigns photographers, and if
you have an event that will be very visual, you may be able to get a photographer assigned. Counting
tree seedlings is not visual - planting them in the ground is. Editors also like to see children involved.
Ask him/her the same questions and give the Photo Editor the same information as the City Editor.
Ask how he/she cooperates with the City Editor, and find out if you can contact both for the same story.
Television:
TV stations tell their stories with pictures. If your event is not visual, it is unlikely you will get
coverage. They will want to see activity and movement. Call the News Assignment Editor at your
local television news stations. Ask them the same questions you would the City Editor of your local
newspaper (see above.)
Be prepared with photo opportunities for both print and television.
Radio:
Radio can be a valuable means of contacting your audience. Find out your stations' formats (news,
talk, music, etc.) and what sectors comprise their audience. If you are looking for young volunteers,
dont go to a station that plays "oldies."
Many radio stations have talk shows - both guest and call-in. These shows are constantly looking for
experts in different fields who are good speakers. Find or train someone in your organization to be
a spokesperson on radio shows. Ask your local stations if they will air a Public Service Announcement
(PSA) announcing your event.
Daily newspapers, television stations and radio news will want to know about your event at least one
(1) week in advance, more if you are looking to place your item in a "community calendar." Weekly
newspapers will want to know at least 3 weeks in advance. You should also send PSAs to your local
radio stations at least 3 weeks in advance. Don't forget! Most importantly, always respect their
deadlines!
NOTE: The media may promise to come to your event, but if breaking news happens, they may not
show. This is not a reflection on you or your group. It is simply a business decision the editors made
about value of the days news.
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Neatness counts.
Be sure there are no typos, misspellings or crossouts. Type double-spaced, on one side
of the paper only. Finish a page with more if theres more (keep the most important
information up front), and end the release with the standard symbols of ### or -30- or
the word end.
Time it right.
Releases should arrive 3-5 days before an event. Longer and theyll get lost. If you have a
hot last-minute story, forget the release and phone it in.
Follow Up. Call news desks and city desks and those youve sent your release to by name.
Your job is to tell them whats going on, and their job is to decide whether its important
to them.
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Talking To Reporters
Reporters may call to ask a question, verify a fact, clarify a position or get an opinion - especially
if youve made it clear youre a local expert in your field. Here are some tips for responding to
reporters:
When you get a call, take it immediately.
Ask reporters what publication or station theyre from, what their deadline is, when the
story will appear, and what they usually write aboutwhat their beat is.
Offer your phone number with every press release and media contact.
Stay informed on urban forestry issues and how they affect your community.
Dont let anyone take a press call unless they know the position of your organization.
Always be completely honest. If you dont know the answer, say, I dont know but Ill find
out. How soon do you need an answer? Always call back.
If you dont want to answer, simply say, I cant answer that right now. Dont say youll
get an answer if you cant or wont.
Follow the reporters line of questioning and respond as completely as you can. Keep your
answers to the point.
If you have other points to communicate, try interjecting them and see what happens. Its
okay to have your own agenda and insert important messages throughout your responses.
The reporters job is to report what he/she sees - not what youve told him/her.
Ignore unfair coverage unless it represents a pattern; youll simply call more, possibly
unfavorable attention to yourself.
Local media are most interested in local stories. But applying a national statistic, problem, or trend to
a local reaction or activity makes a story even more appealing.
For Example:
The Soft News Approach: This community is coming together to plant trees on January 10th.
More Impact: Though local government has slashed urban forestry funding, citizens from
neighborhood X raised money and came together to plant 50 trees to enhance the local environment,
where tree cover has decreased 20% in the last ten years due to air pollution and development.
(NOTE: this is an example not fact).
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Although National Arbor day, which is on the last Friday in April, is a traditional time for
tree planting, the City of Houstons local Arbor Day, is the 3rd Friday in January.
When you choose a date, remember that weekend events usually have a higher volunteer
turnout.
Consult a local forester or arborist for information on appropriate times of year to plant
trees in the Houston area.
Gathering Equipment
Have all of your equipment ready the day of the event. You dont want any last minute scrambling.
Here are a few suggestions, but use the Checklist on page 15 to get suggestions for what to
bring.
Be sure to:
Provide a water source for your volunteers to wash up before heading home.
Find accessible rest rooms for volunteers. If facilities are not close to the planting site,
consider renting portable toilets.
Contact groups that may provide free supplies, or ask volunteers to bring some of their
own.
Be able to think on his or her feet and effectively direct the work of volunteers.
Know the logistics of the event and the desired tree-planting method.
Avoid the temptation to plant trees and focus entirely on keeping the event flowing
smoothly.
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Have a meeting prior to the event. For success, plan an orientation meeting for volunteer leaders
immediately before the tree-planting event. Follow it with a planting demonstration. Leaders can then
put on mini-planting demonstrations for each work crew.
Schedule breaks throughout the planting event. See the page 16 for an example of a Planning
Schedule.
Have a first-aid station and rest rooms available. Be sure that volunteers know where to find them.
Make a backup plan for bad weather.
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Equipment List
Use the following checklist for necessary planting equipment. Don't forget to ask
your volunteers to bring what they have on this list as well. Bring:
____ Seedlings/Trees
____ Shovels
____ Wheelbarrows
____ Dibble Bars
____ Pruning Shears, Heavy Duty Kitchen Scissors
____ Water Buckets, Hoses
____ Hammers
____ Rakes
____ Mulch
____ Tree Protectors
____ Flagging
____ Gloves in case volunteers dont have pairs of their own
____ Safety vests for each volunteer if you are planting trees along roadsides
____ Water for your volunteers since some of them may not remember to bring their own
____ A first-aid kit
Volunteers can do more than plant trees at the event, so have them tag trees, mulch, or install tree
protectors.
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8:00
8:25
8:30
8:30
9:00
9:10
9:20
Students/Volunteers directed
to sites. PLANT! COMPOST!
SPREAD WOOD CHIPS! WATER!
Install rodent guards (if
necessary.)
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III.
All About Trees
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Species of Tree:
Read the tags on each plant. Is it what you ordered?
Size:
Are they the right size? Does the root ball size match the caliper size? For each inch of
trunk caliper, the ball should be 11-12 inches wide.
Plants with good form require less maintenance than plants with poor form. Look for:
Trunk:
Trunks should be straight above middle of root ball; branches should be growing at
regular intervals; there should be no wounds except for superficial scrapes which do
not go through the bark; no discolored, sunken areas, or holes.
Branches:
Branches should be balanced on the trunk. There should be at least 2-4 inches of new
shoot growth from the previous year that is flexible, with healthy, living buds and few
broken branches.
Leaves:
Leaves should be normal size and color for that plant at that time of year and should
not show spots, blights, distorted shape or wilting. Reject deciduous bare root
material that has leaves on it. Reject evergreens with limp shoots.
Roots:
Roots should not be exposed or covered by more than 4 inches of soil in potted or
balled and burlapped (B&B) stock; roots, in bare rootstock should be firm, moist, and
white inside - not dry, black, crushed, torn or mushy.
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Handle trees with care. Dont drop them! This could damage roots, or it could cause the
root ball to break apart. When the root ball breaks, small feeder roots are torn from
larger roots. This can kill the tree.
Watch out for branch tips when you move the tree around. Be careful to leave buds,
leaves and branches on the tree. Taking these steps also prevents injuries to people, such
as poked eyes and scratched skin. Protect trunks and bark from tools, equipment and
rubbing. Temporary guards, such as those made from cardboard, are helpful, especially
for heavy trees.
Keep plants shaded and root balls moist until planting. Roots can dry out and die quickly on
both bare root and containerized plants. Mulch bare root and B&B stock to keep roots moist.
Use ball hooks, a ball cart or a front-end loader to carry B&B material. Dragging or rolling
may cause roots to separate from the trunk.
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Step 4 Backfill
Be sure that the tree is
at the right depth and plumb. Fill the hole with the
soil that was removed. As the backfill is added,
lightly push the soil around the roots or water the
soil to eliminate air pockets. Backfill to the height
just below the root collar. To prevent compaction,
do not pack soil after you water. See the diagram
below left for proper backfilling technique.
Step 5 Mulch
Add 4 inches of organic mulch on top of the
planting circle. Keep the mulch
4 inches away from the trunk to prevent fungus
from growing on the tree trunk.
Step 6- Pruning and Staking
Limit pruning to removing broken or dead branches and roots at the time you plant. Delay cosmetic
pruning for a year. A tree should not be staked unless absolutely necessary because of extremely
windy conditions or a high risk of vandalism. See below for a discussion of staking.
Root
collar
T-bud swell
Ground line
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Ties can girdle trees if they are put on too tight and are left on for more than one
season. Wire run through a hose is often to blame. Trees can also be girdled with twine.
Trees can be wounded when they are allowed to blow around in the wind and hit the top
of the stakes. To avoid this problem, set the stakes more than a foot away from the
tree, and put the ties at the top of the stakes.
If you have decided to stake your new trees, do it the best way possible. We recommend the
following method:
Use two (2) to three (3) wooden stakes. Then use ties made of a soft material like strips
of rags, old nylons or webbed strap. Dont use hoses with wires or bailer twine. Put one
stake on the windward (south) side of the tree.
For most trees, use short stakes and tie the tree halfway between the ground and the
first branches. Dont let the stakes stick up higher than the ties. (See the tree on the
left.)
For a tree that is tall and spindly and cannot stand on its own, use tall stakes and tie the
tree above the first branches. Don't put tree ties right below the first branches. This is
a vulnerable spot on a tree. Trees commonly snap off here in the wind. (See the tree on
the right.)
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Step 7 Water
The last, and one of the most important things to do is to water the tree. Thoroughly soak the soil
around the tree. At minimum, water weekly during the spring and summer months.
Lack of water will slow a new trees growth to a crawl. It also delays establishment and may even kill
leaves, branches, roots, or the whole tree.
Too often, the canopy of the tree ends up smaller than it was at the time of planting. In this section
we shed light on recent science-based prescriptions for watering newly planted trees.
For the most part, trees can only take up water from soil that is in direct contact with roots. To
make matters worse, if the roots are cut during transplanting, their ability to absorb water will
be compromised. Even in the best conditions, newly transplanted trees use water from a relatively
small volume of soil. Since container-grown trees grow in a small volume of soil, they need frequent
watering the first few weeks after planting just like other types of stock.
Within two to three days after spring or summer planting, the soil around the roots of trees dries
enough to prevent root growth. Apply 1 to 112 gallons of water for each inch of trunk diameter. After
that, water trees every 2 to 3 days. Dont overwater. Check soil moisture levels for the next 2 to 3
months and then weekly until established. The more closely you match your watering frequency to the
optimum, the quicker trees become established.
Do not water or irrigate daily if the soil drains poorly (that is -soil drains less than 34 inches per
hour). Also reduce watering in cool, cloudy, or wet weather.
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Identify the root collar - usually just above where the roots begin. Do not plant any
deeper than this.
Determine if the tree roots hold the soil together in the pot or if the soil is loose.
If the soil is packed or the pot is root bound (meaning roots are wound together in the
pot), carefully remove the tree from the pot. Make a vertical slice 1 to 112 inches deep, up
the sides of each quarter, and make an X cut across the bottom of the soil ball.
If the tree is too large or the root ball is loose, place the tree and container in the
planting hole, and adjust for final position before removing the container
Carefully cut around the base of the container, and then make a slice up one side of the
pot before gently removing sides of the container and backfilling.
Most containers will not break down if buried and should be removed completely, but for
large trees or trees growing in loose soil, the risk of root damage is too great. In those
cases, leave the bottom of the pot in the hole. Roots grow out, not down.
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Bare root trees must be kept cool and moist at all times. If the roots dry out for even
a short time, they can be damaged or killed. This is especially true of the fine, hair-like
feeder roots. Store bare root trees with organic mulch that completely covers the root
system. Keep the roots damp. A shady location out of the wind is best.
When moving the trees to the hole or container, keep them covered with mulch or a wet
burlap sack, and move quickly. Take care to plant trees before the roots dry out.
On a windy, sunny day, uncovered roots dry out and are damaged in as little as 30 seconds.
The perfect tree-planting day is cool, calm, and damp.
Have the planting site prepared before moving the tree so no time is wasted with the
roots uncovered.
The hole must be large enough to spread all of the roots out. Do not bend or curve the
roots, as this can cause root girdling - a potentially fatal condition.
Prune any broken roots with a sharp pruner. Do not leave torn or rough ends.
Identify the root collar. Keep the root collar right at grade level or slightly above to
allow for better settling.
Keep the tree straight when backfilling. There is no root ball to hold the tree straight, so
take extra care when packing in the soil.
Occasionally, bare root trees need staking for the first growing season.
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Planting Seedlings
Planting seedlings is an easy economical way to plant large numbers of trees. Seedlings are available
from a variety of sources and can often be obtained for free. Seedlings are very small, so people of
almost any age and ability can participate in planting.
Seedlings are planted essentially the same way as larger trees, but with less effort by using these
steps:
1. Dig a hole large enough to spread out the root system.
2. Place the seedling in the hole. Be sure to spread out all of the roots without bending
them. Be sure to place the tree at the right depth when backfilling the hole.
3. Mulch and water the seedling to finish the job.
You can maintain seedlings simply by watering and weeding. A seedlings smaller root system will dry
out faster than larger trees, so water more frequently. Be careful not to over-water.
Tree seedlings are also more likely to be affected from the competition of weeds and grasses; so
weed planting areas and replenish wood chips frequently.
Tree tubes help increase the survival rates of deciduous seedlings by encouraging growth and
reducing damage caused by animals. Tubes can be essential in areas with a high deer population.
Although tubes can substantially increase the success of seedling plantings, they will also add
significantly to the cost.
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Do not remove the basket or burlap until the tree is positioned in the hole. This keeps the
root ball intact.
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The urban environment is stressful for trees planted at ground level, but trees in above-ground
planters have the added stress of restricted root space and exposure to excessive heat or root
freezing. These plants require special planting, maintenance and selection.
About Planters
Planting in above-ground planters has inherent limitations and problems. Here are a few things to
consider:
Planter Size. A minimum size for a planter is 5-feet wide by 2-feet deep. Roots confined
to a planter that is too small for the species planted are less likely to develop properly
and sustain growth. Because small planters are prone to excessive heat or cold, planters
are commonly lined with two inches of closed-cell foam insulation to minimize the problem.
Soil. An adequate soil volume is needed for the root system to develop and function, to
maintain moisture, and to limit temperature fluctuations.
Water. Plants will need the equivalent of 1 inch of water per week. Small planters cannot
hold enough moisture to keep up with the transpiration of urban trees in the summer;
therefore, they will require more water. The smaller the planter, the more likely it is to
dry out.
Increasing the size of planters. One way to increase the size, life span and variety of
trees in planters is to plant groups of trees, shrubs, and perennials in larger above-ground
planting spaces. Sharing root space increases the volume available to individual trees. The
larger planter size also helps protect tree roots from extreme heat and cold.
The microclimate created when plants grow together lessens transpiration by lowering
leaf temperature and wind speed. Using clump forms, shrubs, and perennials of varied
form and height also results in a more natural look.
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IV.
After the Trees Are Planted
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WateringWater is a limiting factor for plant growth and establishment. A newly planted
tree needs frequent watering. At minimum, water weekly during the spring and summer
months.Trees that are less than 2 inches in caliper at the time of planting need the least
watering. Trees over 4 inches in caliper need the most.
Each time you water, give the tree at least a gallon of water for each inch of caliper. An
easy way to water new trees is to lay a hose on the ground near the plant and let it run
slowly for up to an hour. Let it run slowly enough that if you stuck it in your mouth
(like you did when you were a kid), you could drink it as fast as water runs out. A soaker
hose that lets water ooze and drip out is handy for rows or masses of shrubs or trees
transplanted with a spade.
Be generous with water, especially on well drained soil. A tree transplanted with a tree
spade may need up to 100 gallons of water at a time. Adjust the amount of water applied
depending on plant size, soil type and the amount of rainfall received. If water puddles
around the tree and doesn't drain away in an hour or two, you've watered too much.
MulchingApply 4 inches of wood chips or other degradable mulch over the root zone
of the plant. This improves soil structure and aeration, keeps roots cool and moist,
controls weeds, and keeps lawn mowers and weed whips away from the base of the plant.
Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk of the tree to prevent bark rotting and
rodent feeding.
Weed ControlThe mulch you added will prevent most weed growth, but a few are bound
to grow around your new plants, anyway. Pull weeds out by hand. Use care not to mix soil
with the mulch as you pull, or you'll find that weeds multiply there. Weed whips injure
bark and kill trees--don't use them!
Avoid using weed-killers (herbicide) around young trees--your new plant doesn't know
that it's not a weed! Carefully use herbicides, if you must, to spot spray weeds in large
areas or to keep grass from spreading into the chipped area--use with care!
PruningAt planting time, prune only dead, diseased, broken, or rubbing branches. Start
pruning to improve plant form or direct growth during the first or second winter after
planting. Most pruning is best done during the winter when trees are dormant. But if you
must prune during the summer, choose a dry day to reduce the spread of canker diseases.
Make pruning cuts at a branch union. Most wounds are best left open to the air. Do not
use tree wound dressing except in these special situations: Oak trees wounded between
April 15 and July 1 and Elm trees wounded in summer.
Fertilization Generally, trees do not need fertilization at the time of planting. When a
soil test shows the need for fertilizer, choose one with slow-release nitrogen. Mix it into
the back-fill soil. Fertilize your new tree the second autumn after planting as the leaves
change color.
Apply a complete fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Choose a
granular product with slow release nitrogen and broadcast it over the ground under the
branch spread of the tree. The fertilizer can also be placed directly into the root zone
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of the tree by using a root feeder or by putting fertilizer granules into pre-drilled holes
in the soil. Do not apply fertilizer more than once each year. Fertilize in spring (before or
while leaves emerge) or in autumn (after leaves change color). Remember to follow label
instructions
Staking Trees rarely need staking. If yours has a small root ball, spindly growth, is in
very wet soil, exposed to very high winds, or is at risk for vandalism, you may need to
stake. Use a wide, flexible band to attach the tree to the stakes. Tie loosely to allow the
tree to move in wind. Remove stakes and ties within 1 year.
Rodent Protection To protect the trunks of flowering and fruit-bearing trees from
gnawing rodents during the winter, place a cage of 14 inch mesh hardware cloth around the
trunk from just below the soil line up to the lowest branches. This cage can remain on the
tree year-round. Be sure that it is large enough not to constrict the trunk as the tree
grows.
Insect and Disease Control Check your new trees each week. Look for problems. If you
find one that you don't recognize, consult a professional for a diagnosis. Many problems
are best left untreated, but some can cause real problems. Follow your tree professional's
advice exactly when you treat an insect or disease problem. Avoid wounding new trees,
especially during the growing season. Wounds invite insect and disease problems.
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Rx for Trees
Transplant Stress or 'Shock' and How to Reduce It
Trees suffer from stress, too! During transplanting, trees lose a significant part of their root
system. An 18-foot tall tree, moved with a tree spade loses up to 95 percent of its roots in the
process. Growth is normally in balance, but once a portion of the root system is lost, the tree suffers.
When the balance of growth is restored, plants are able to grow and reproduce without maintenance
and are considered established.
During the establishment period, most of the tree's energy reserves are used to produce new roots.
The tree may be particularly vulnerable to attack by secondary insect and disease organisms, such as
borers and canker fungi. Take care of trees before, during, and after planting to reduce the effects
of transplant stress.
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The Top 11 Causes of Young Tree Failure During the First 5 Years
1. Improper Species Selection:
Selecting the wrong species for the site.
2. Poor site preparation and drainage:
Poor soil management often leads to poor soil drainage.
3. Planting too deep:
This can kill trees in all soils, but especially in heavy soils.
4. Lack of watering:
Water is the most important ingredient in tree survival. Too much or too little causes
tree problems.
5. Planting non-hardy plant stock:
Non-hardy stock will die or suffer crown and trunk injury in cold winters.
6. Poor care in a nursery and in shipping and handling:
Trees are a perishable product when out of the ground. Digging, storage, transportation,
and temporary holding areas are all potential failure points.
7. Planting too late in spring:
Bare root and B&B plantings often fail if planted during hot, dry periods in late spring and
early summer.
8. Weather:
Extremely dry, hot, windy or wet weather can severely damage young trees. Hard spring
freezes after leaf-out or cold snaps before trees harden off, can be devastating.
9. Insects and Diseases:
Recently planted trees are vulnerable to defoliating insects and trunk borers. Canker and
wilt diseases commonly cause failure.
10. Herbicide Injury:
Soil sterilants in fence lines, herbicide runoff from farm fields, herbicide carryover and
spray drift are known killers of young and old trees.
11. Mechanical Injury:
Weed whips, lawn mowers, construction activities, vehicles, vandalism and improper
pruning can kill trees or cause slow deaths by severely limiting the transport of water and
food in the tree trunk.
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V.
Sources
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713-867-0378 or 311
713-688-8931
713-942-0587
713-942-7275
713-840-8733
713-629-0481
713-839-8855
This manual was reviewed by the Texas Forest Service and City of Houston Parks and Recreation
Department - Urban Forestry Division.
To download or print a copy of this manual, visit:
http://www.ci.houston.tx.us/departme/planning/planning_dev_web/publications/treeManual_F.pdf
(Please note: This is a very large file and may take several minutes to print.)
Feel free to share this link with other interested community volunteers.
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