Standardization of Recipe for Dyeing
By: Mr. M. Parthiban, R. Karthikeyan & P. Pradeep Kumar
'Standardization of Recipe for Dyeing Staining Free Polyester/Cotton Blended Yarns'
1) Abstract:
Disperse dyes give excellent overall fastness properties with polyester where it gives very poor fastness
properties with cellulose. The reason behind this is disperse dyes does not have any substantivity & affinity
towards cotton & cotton cannot be dyed at very high temperature as like Polyester. Hence P/C blend dyeing
will not give sufficient fastness properties compared to 100% Polyester. Normally in industries a recipe used
for dyeing 100% Polyester is also applied for different proportions of P/C blends and then it is topped up with
reactive dyes to match the shade. But it will not give sufficient fastness properties.
The object of the work is to standardize (P/C blend worked out with three different proportions) and to
formalize the individual recipe for each proportions to improve the fastness properties of blended fabrics.
2) Introduction:
100% PET means for strength, crease resistance but it cannot be wearable because of low moisture
content, static generation and accumulation, so P/C blend enters in market because it has a advantages of
both PET and cellulose and can be wearable.
PET cotton blend has got lot of advantages from user point of view but from dyers point of view it was
difficult to dye the blends. P/C blends does not give sufficient fastness properties as like 100% PET with
disperse dyes. In industries, single recipe used for 100% PET is also applied for different proportions of P/C
blends & then it was topped up with reactive dyes to match the standard shade. But the fastness properties
of these blend is a big question mark. While using disperse dyes for dyeing P/C blends, it is noticed that
the PET portion is not only dyed but not the cellulosic portion. It only stains the cellulosic portion. So the
overall fastness properties of P/C blend fabrics is going to be less and also the staining of disperse dyes on
cotton is more.
In our work, we are going to dye three different proportions of P/C blends with disperse dyes and reactive
dyes. Here, we change the procedure of dyeing P/C blend which are in practice in order to standardize the
individual recipe for each proportion by using disperse dyes and reactive dyes.
3) Materials & Methods:
In our work, we have taken p/c blends yarns since p/c blended fabrics are mostly used for wearable purpose
3.1 Material:
1. 100% polyester yarn
Type : spun yarn
s
Count : 20
2. Polyester blended yarn
Mix: 65/35 P/C Mix: 50/50
Type: Spun yarn Type: Spun yarn
Count: 2/20s Count: 2/20s
3.2 Dyes Used:
Dyes Manufacturer: CIBA
Disperse dyes:
i. Dark red 2B
ii. Scarlet RR
Reactive Dyes:
i. Red F3B
ii. Yellow MERL
iii. Blue BBID
3.3 Chemical and Auxiliaries
i. Acidic Acid
ii. Ammonium Sulphate
iii. Soda
iv. Salt
v. Anionic Soap
Acidic Acid:
Manufacturer - Parrys India (p) Ltd.,
Concentration - 100%
Purity - 99%
Ammonium Sulphate:
Manufacturer - Parrys India (p) Ltd.,
Concentration - 100%
Purity - 95%
Soda
Manufacturer - TATA Chemical (p) Ltd.,
Concentration - 100%
Purity - 95%
Salt
Manufacturer - TATA Chemical (p) Ltd.,
Concentration - 100%
Purity - 95%
3.3. Methods
The grey polyester cotton blend yarn is followed with following recipe and it is neutralized with Acetic Acid at
room temperature.
H202 - 2 gpl
Na2CO3 - 2 gpl
Wetting Agent - 1 gpl
Temperature / Time - Boiling Temp / 30 min.
Then the work is made with different recipe as follows. The polyester cotton yarn of different blend is dyed
with the same amount of disperse dyes as follows:
100% polyester
Dark Red 2B - 1.8 %
Scarlet RR - 0.93%
Ammonium Sulphate - 3g
Acetic acid - 0.3%
Polyester / Cotton blend - 52 / 48
Dark Red 2B - 1.8 %
Scarlet RR - 0.93%
Ammonium Sulphate - 3g
Acetic acid - 0.3%
Polyester/cotton blend 65 / 35
Dark Red 2B - 1.8 %
Scarlet RR - 0.93%
Ammonium Sulphate - 3g
Acetic acid - 0.3%
Anionic Soap
Manufacturer - Clariant Chemicals (p) Ltd.,
Concentration - 100 %
Purity - 100 %
4) Dyeing Procedure
The dye bath is set with
1g/liter - Dispersing agent
0.5 g/liter - Wetting agent / leveling agent (optional)
The redox buffer is added and the pH is adjusted to 5.5. The liquor is circulated through the package at 50°C
for.15 min. The dyes are dispersed in 10 to 20 times in the weight of water at 45-50°C. The dispersion is
o
filtered through a thin cloth into the dye bath. The liquor is circulated and the temperature raised to l30 C in
30-min (The-pump pressure is slightly higher than the static pressure. (Dyeing is continued for 40-60 min).
The dye-liquor is circulated inside-out throughout the whole dyeing cycle so that the position of the fabric is
not disturbed. The flow of liquor may be from inside out for 10 min to outside-in for 10 min in every 10 min to
get very uniform results. After about 40 min, a sample is taken out for the shade matching. The liquor is
cooled to 80-90°C and before shading disperse-dye liquor is added to avoid uneven dyeing. On completion
of dyeing, the dye bath is drained at the highest possible temperature Otherwise the shade appears bronzy
because of the deposited ash like oligomer powder that may dust off and create problems in finishing The
precipitated dyes are difficult to remove from the PET surface and the lower the rubbing fastness of dyed
goods. Thus, the bath must be dropped the dyeing temperature (or) as near to that temperature as possible.
However, there are difficulties in dropping the bath (which is under pressure). Since, lot of steam is
generated when the hot liquor comes to atmospheric pressure. Special arrangements are usually made to
take care of this problem, and dropping in soaping of the material is washed, reduction-cleared, and soaped.
5) Recipe for Shade Matching:
The following recipes are used for topping up the polyester / cotton blend with reactive dyes to match the
shade.
P/C blend P/C blend
(65 / 35) (52 / 48)
Red F3B - 3.4 % Red F3B - 5%
Yellow M3RL - 1.6% Yellow M3RL - 1.6%
Blue BBID - 0.1% Blue BBID - 0.1%
Salt / Soda - 14g /3g Salt /Soda - 14g /3 g
Dyeing Procedure:
The dye bath is setup with required amount of dyes at RT. After 10 min, required amount of salt is added.
0
Raise the temperature to 60 c. Dyeing is carried out for 20 min. Then soda ash of required quantity is
added. Continue the dyeing for 90 min and then after treatment is given.
6) Standardized Recipe:
Here, the disperse dyes are standardized according to the proportion of the polyester portion in polyester /
cotton blend.
100% polyester
Dark Red 2B - 1.8 %
Scarlet RR - 0.93%
Ammonium Sulphate - 3g
Acetic acid - 0.3%
P/C blend 65 / 35
Dark Red 2B - 1.1 %
Scarlet RR - 0.5%
Ammonium Sulphate - 3g
Acetic acid - 0.3%
P/C blend 52 / 48
Dark Red 2B - 0.9 %
Scarlet RR - 0.4%
Ammonium Sulphate - 3g
Acetic acid - 0.3%
Then it is taken for reduction clearing.
Reduction Clearing:
Caustic - 2 gpl
Hydrose - 2 gpl
Cyclone ECO - 1 gpl
0
Temperature - 80 C
Time - 15 min
7) Standardized Recipe for Cotton
The standardized recipe for cotton portion by using reactive dyes is given below followed by after treatment
P/C blend 65 / 35 P/C blend 52 / 48
Red F3B - 7.8 % Red F3B - 5.2%
Yellow M3RL - 4.1% Yellow M3RL - 3.0%
Blue BBID - 2.4% Blue BBID - 1.6%
Salt - 16g Salt - 16g
Soda - 5g Soda - 5g
8) Results and Discussion
Based on the inference of our work the following results are obtained, which are tabulated below.
Table 8.1: Comparison of light fastness results of conventional dyed and standardized dyed samples
Conventional Standardized
S.No. Blends Hours
Dyeing Dyeing
1. 100 % PET 20 4-5 4-5
2. 65-35 P/C 20 4 4-5
3. 50-50 P/C 20 4 4-5
Table 8.2: Comparison of rubbing fastness results of conventional dyed and standardized dyed
samples
Conventional dyeing Standardized dyeing
S.No. Blends
Dry Wet Dry Wet
1. 100 % PET 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
2. 65-35 P/C 4 3-4 4-5 4-5
3. 50-50 P/C 4 3-4 4-5 4-5
Table 8.3: Comparison of sublimation fastness results of conventional dyed and standardized dyed
samples
Conventional dyeing
100% p Yarn P/C 65-35 Red P/C 50-50
Red colour colour Red colour
Time (seconds) 120 120 120
Temperature (Deg.C) 120 + 2 120+2 120+2
Staining on wool 4-5 4 3-4
Acrylic 4-5 4 3-4
Polyester 4-5 4 4
Nylon 4-5 4 3-4
Cotton 4-5 4 3
Acetate 4-5 4 3-4
Standardized dyeing
100% p Yarn P/C 65-35 Red P/C 50-50
Red colour colour Red colour
Time (seconds) 120 120 120
Temperature (Deg.C) 120 + 2 120+2 120+2
Staining on wool 4-5 4-5 4-5
Acrylic 4-5 4-5 4-5
Polyester 4-5 4-5 4-5
Nylon 4-5 4-5 4-5
Cotton 4-5 4-5 4-5
Acetate 4-5 4-5 4-5
Table 8.4: Comparison of washing fastness results of conventional dyed and standardized dyed
samples
Conventional dyeing Standardized dyeing
S.No. Blends Change in Staining on Change in Staining on
shade cotton shade cotton
1. 100 % PET 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
2. 65-35 P/C 4-5 3-4 4-5 4-5
3. 50-50 P/C 4-5 3 4-5 4-5
Light, Rubbing, Sublimation and Wash Fastness are found to be excellent in the standardized method
samples when compared to normal dyeing method.
9) Conclusion
Washing fastness, light fastness, sublimation and rubbing fastness of 100% PET are excellent in 100%
polyester. Fastness properties like wash, light, rubbing and sublimation properties was reduced to10-15%
compared to 100% Polyester . Disperse dyes stains on cellulose to a greater extent in P/C blends to that of
100% Polyester in Normal Method.
In Standardized Method, wash fastness, light fastness and all other fastness properties was proved to be
excellent in 100% Polyester. Based on the above results, we conclude that by standardizing the recipe for
each proportions, fastness properties of the fabric was increased and we can achieve stain free dyeing P/C
blended yarns.
This work can be tried in all other classes in reactive dyes, since reactive dyes mostly have affinity and
substantivity with cellulose. This work can be extended in other fibre blends like P/V, P/W.The work can be
modified by varying the parameters like time, temperature and concentration. This project consumes more
reactive dyes compared to normal method. This can be tailor made by selecting proper concentration. We
work the material in two bath process. Other modes of application (i.e.,) one bath process, can also be tried.
10) References
1) LS super fast dyeing, finishing and thermo migration - Ciba Dyes and Chemicals.
2) Keshav V. Datye and Vaidya- "Chemical processing of synthetic fibres and blends" - pp. 183-190.
3) A.Adwin Sunder M.Tech.- "Quality Assurance in Textile Wet Processing" - pp. 57-61 & 67-73.
About the Author:
M. Parthiban is associated with the Faculty of Textile Chemistry, SSM College of Engineering,
Komarapalayam.
