TT 520

.P51

Copy

THE

SCIENTIFIC TAILOR
BASED ON GEOMETRY

A method

of

designing and drafting patterns for

classes

of garments for men,

actual

and composite measures

women and

all

children, to

FOR

FACTORIES, TAILORS, LADIES' TAILORS, DRESSMAKERS, AND SCHOOL PURPOSES.

BY
F

VOLUME

I,

L.

PHELPS.

WOMEN'S GARMENTS.

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THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

PREFACE.
In offering this

the

work

to the public, the

implies, wholly a scientific

author begs to say, that while

method,

it

is,

as

not theoretical as he has not

only put each and every part into practical operation by cutting and making garments to the within diagrams, but he has also taught the same to designers and
title

cutters

some

who

is

it

are using, and have been using for a

of the best establishments in the

taught a great number of people

number

of years, this

who knew nothing about

method

He

United States and Canada.

in

has also

designing, and they are

holding responsible positions, and drawing good salaries.

During the past ten years the author has made a thorough and practical study
of garment-making, having travelled from one city to another, teaching the designers and cutters in the various establishments, watching the garments in their
different stages of manufacture,

whom

for

pattern, but the cutting of the

There

and seeing the

So

they were designed.

is

offered

in

this

result of the

work on the persons

that he not only understands the cutting of a

goods and making

work not only the

of the

garment as

result of his

well.

own personal study

and experiments, but many valuable points gleaned from the various institutions
wherein he has taught drafting and designing.
This method, while very simple, must be fully understood to be used in an
manner, and with good results.
Do not skip over a portion of the work
thinking it of no importance, for it is all for a purpose, and leading to an end
intelligent

which can only be reached by the course herein laid down

it is purely
of an
educational nature, and there is a reason for each and every move, and if you will
learn and fully comprehend that reason, you will have no difficulty in designing any
;

and

all

who

will fully

in

garments that

will

be worn.

Style

master the problems contained

drafting patterns for any and

all

is

simply variation, and the designer

in this

volume

will

have no

difficulty

garments that may from time to time be

in

vogue, for the foundation and principles are herein contained.

There are no proportions used, each pattern being drafted to measures

therefore there are no hard or easy forms to fit, for if the measures are taken
correctly, and the pattern drafted to those measures, the garment must fit.
By this
method there is no supposition
that one part of the human form should be a
;

some other measure, thereby

fractional part of the bust, or

so-called perfect

form

but

has an individual form, and

it

in

is

establishing an ideal, or

based upon the well-known

order to draft a pattern that

fact that
will

fit,

each person

each separate

part must be measured, the question being not what a certain form should be

but what shape

is it ?

Measurements

in

inches will answer the question.

Factory

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

or stock garments are drafted to composite measures, the schedule for

given

in

for the

In

them being

other volumes treating on factory work, but the principles and foundation

same are herein contained.

the making of garments of any

description, the pattern

the foundation on which you build, and while you can

foundation,

it

is

is

not

all,

but

build poorly on a

it

is

good

Care should be

impossible to build well on a poor foundation.

taken, therefore, not only in the preparation of the pattern, but in marking out

and cutting of the goods as

well.

young man or woman to-day than the

designing of garments and drafting of patterns for the same, and the individuals
who fit themselves to do first-class work will always have a pleasant and remunerative business, for they can rest assured that no machine will be invented that will

No

field offers

greater inducements to a

take their place in the industrial world.

This work does not contain

all

there

is

to designing, but

on which you can build as high as your ambition and

number
method

of years the

it

the foundation

is

ability will carry you.

For a

author has been urged by people he has taught to put

book form, and he now

this

same to the public, both complete and

you have a book you do not want a
teacher, for the country is filled with grammars, arithmetics, and other first-class
text books, but no person would think of dispensing with the schools, but go to a
in

comprehensive.

first-class teacher,

spend one's time

If

it

is

Do

if

and learn the philosophy of the industry, for

in

studying

it

all

many

of

life

is

too short to

out without assistance.

impossible to take personal lessons, one

close application, as

that manner.

offers the

not get the idea that

may

learn

it

by study and

our early statesmen have acquired an education

in

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

TMTRD.

curve-rule, which

This curve-rule

is

illustrated

on preceding page.

simply a piece of metal, the edges of which form a great

curves, both simple and compound; these curves being such as
are
generally used by garment-designers in the making of patterns.
is

variety of

Each curve

is

designated by either a figure or a

a curve that suits the taste,

and the purpose,

it

is

letter,

so that having

drawn

an easy matter to duplicate that

curve at any time.

Most

of the designers

make

their curved lines with a

free-hand movement,
using the eye as a guide, but this method requires a great amount of
practice to
enable one to make the curve desired, and even then it is impossible to
duplicate
a curve.
this curve-rule a novice can

do as good work as an old designer, in the

way of making curves, and an old designer can do more work, and better work, in
\\ ith

the

it

is

will

same length of time.

While the curve-rule
with any other,

it

is

no more of a necessity with this method of work than

such a convenience that a designer who has once tried it

is

never think of getting along without

life-time.

it,

and being made of metal,

it

will

last

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

TO TAKE THE MEASURES.

garments by

In the drafting of patterns for

important thing to do

method, the

and most

first

to take correctly the proper measures, for they are the

is

foundation on which the diagram

is

this

builded, and unless the measures are correct,

is

it

impossible to draft a correct pattern.

Therefore study carefully the following instructions for taking measures. The
numbers on the illustrations correspond with the numbers at the top of the descriptions of
2

how

measures;

to take the

i.

e.,

Measure No.

on the illustration shows where the tape

is

2 is

the Bust Measure, and

placed on a

person

take that

to

measure.

NUMBER
Take

THE NECK MEASURE.

1.

the neck measure round the neck as

shown

in

illustration,

where the

garment should come, but not over another garment.

When

it

is

impossible to get at this part of the neck on account of the garment

worn, take the neck measure above the collar and quite close around the neck, and
This will give the neck measure to use in drafting a
to this amount add one inch.

The above

pattern.

add one-half

directions are for a regular garment, but for a shirt waist

band

inch, as the

come higher than

will

in

wrapper or a

tight-

fitting waist.

NUMBER
Take

THE BUST MEASURE.

2.

a position behind the person to be measured, and put the tape around

as in illustration, placing

it

up close under the arms, and well up

Now

to cross the shoulder blades at their lower edges.

hand, between the

and

by

pull the tape

line

thumb and
down over

finger,

the

full

and with the

right

in

the back, so as

hold the tape

in

the

left

hand reach around in front,

shown in the illustrations

part of the bust, as

2.

Take

the bust measure quite loose, except

in

stout forms,

where

it

may be

taken reasonably close.

NUMBER
Stand behind the person
smallest part of the waist

3.

to

THE WAIST MEASURE.

be measured, and place the tape

then draw the tape real

smallest part of the person, which

is

tight, so that

the natural waist

Never crowd it down to a fashionable waist

smallest part, where it will naturally come.

line,

it

around the

will

seek the

line.

but take the measure at the

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

NUMBER

THE HIP MEASURE.

4.

the hip measure loosely around the hips, five inches below where the

Take

waist measure was taken.

inches below the waist

Do

not take this tight, and be sure that

it

is

taken

five

line.

NUMBER

THE CHEST MEASURE.

5.

Let the person being measured drop the arms down

at the side in a natural

position.

Now

measure with the tape across the

from the break of the muscle,

line,

chest,

about one inch above the bust

arm on one

at the

side to the break of the

muscle on the other side at the armhole.

Do

not get the tape too high

in

the centre, but keep

it

level with the bust

as shown in cut, by line 5.

Pay no attention to the armhole in the garment worn, but locate the points
where the armholes should be, and measure between these points.
The tendency of beginners is to take this measure too long, which will
necessitate paring out the armhole when the garment is tried on.

line,

NUMBER
When

THE WIDTH OF BACK.

6.

down

the arms are straight

inches above the bust

to the side,

measure across the back, two

from where the armhole should be on the one

line,

where the armhole should be on the other

NUMBER

7.

side, as

shown by

side, to

line 6.

THE LENGTH OF FRONT.

Tie a cord around the waist, and draw

it

tight, so that

it

will

seek the smallest

part of the person.

Do

not crowd

it

down, or use a

belt,

the party being measured tries to push

move

it

from

Now

its

line

it

down, draw

it

it

tight;

and

if

so tight that she cannot

actual place, namely, the smallest part of the person.

come

at the

the centre front to the cord at the waist, as

shown

take the length of front from where the garment should

front of the neck, straight

by

but use a cord and draw

down

7.

Take

this

measure quite

NUMBER
While the arm

8.

loose.

THE UNDER ARM MEASURE.

of the person being

measured

is

from close up under the arm, straight down to the cord

Be very

careful

down by

the side, measure

at the waist.

not to get this measure too long, for

it

is

a defect hard to

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

remedy, while

if

it

is

too short,

easily

is

it

changed so as

to

make

fit

when

the

garment is tried on.

This measure is best taken with a flexible rule, or a piece of stiff card-board,
to get the length, and then measure the card-board with the square; this will give
the length in inches.

NUMBER

THE DEPTH OF

9.

SCYE.

Place a tape close up under the arm, thence across the back, and up close

under the other arm.

Have

to their side; this will

keep the tape

the person being measured hold their arms firmly

in

place under the arms.

see

if

the tape runs straight across the back, that

low

in

the centre of the back.

Now
come
by

measure down the centre

back of the neck,

at the

line 9.

Much

care

This

will give the

necessary

is

NUMBER

of the back,

it

Then

down

step back and

neither too high nor too

is

from where the garment should

to the top of the tape, as

shown

in the illustration

depth of scye, which means the depth of the armhole.

taking this measure.

in

THE OVER SHOULDER MEASURE.

10.

Place the square up close under the arm, and measure from the top of the
square, just back of the armhole, up over the shoulder and
square, just in front of the armhole, as

NUMBER

[i.

shown

in

down

to the top of the

the illustration by line

10.

THE FIRST BALANCE MEASURE.

Tie a plumb bob, or other small weight, to the end of a string twenty-four
inches long, and

same

length.

trations,

tie

the other end of the string to the centre of a tape about the

Suspend

this weight, or

by tying the two ends

Now

in

the

illus-

see that the person being measured stands in a natural attitude, neither

The plumb line, when pressed into the form

under-arm seam, and it may be located well to the front of

stooping nor over

locates the

plumb, under the arm as shown

of the tape together over the shoulder.

erect.

or farther back as suits the fancy, but the object

seam should be located, at the bust

Having located the plumb line

line, at

at its

is

to find out

the waist

and

line,

at the waist,

the armhole,

where the under-arm

at the hip line.

proper place, proceed to take the balance

measures as follows
Place the end of the tape at the

measure from the plumb

measure.

seam

or

This measure
in

garment, and

other words,
is

shown by

plumb

line,

line to the centre back,

close

which

up under the arm, and

will give the first

how far it is from the centre back

how much of the bust measure is in

tells

line

1.

to the

balance

under-arm

the back of the

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

NUMBER
plumb

Press the

line in to the waist,

measure from the plumb

per line

This

12.

the garment, and

On
long;
is

tells

is

THE SECOND BALANCE MEASURE.

12.

line, at

how many

that

it

straight

up and down

then

the centre-back, as

line, to

inches of the waist measure are

in

the back of

called the second balance.

an erect form this measure

in fact,

keeping

the waist, on the waist

is

be short, while

will

in

the object of the balance measures

stooping form
to tell

will

it

be

whether the form

stooping, erect, or over erect.

NUMBER
Take

THE THIRD BALANCE MEASURE.

13.

the third balance from the

keeping the tape

to the centre-back,

plumb

five

inches below the waist line

line, five

inches below the waist

line.

(See

line

13

in illustration.)

This measure
taken loose.

is

taken very loose,

This measure

tells

it

being part of the hip measure, which

how much

of the hip

measure

is

is

on the back of

the garment, the remainder being on the front of the garment.

The

object of these balance measures

is

to tell

how much

of the waist

belongs with a certain portion of the bust measure; and also to

tell

measure

how much

of

the hip measure belongs with that portion of the bust.

These

thirteen measures comprise the principal measures for the

body

of a

garment; but there are three secondary measures as follows:

NUMBER

14.

THE HEIGHT OF DART.

Measure from the centre of the neck in front, straight down the centre
e brow of the bust.
This will give the height of dart.
This measure is part of number 7, which is the length of front.

NUMBER
Measure from the back
at the waist.

This

will

THE LENGTH OF BACK.

of the neck straight

down

the centre back to the cord

give you the length of back.

NUMBER
Measure

15.

16.

THE WIDTH OF SHOULDERS.

straight across the back, from point to point of

shoulder seams.

This

the prevailing styles.

front

will

shoulders, at the

give the width of shoulders, and will vary according to

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

MEASURES FOR THE SLEEVES.

NUMBER
This measure

is

THE ARMHOLE MEASURE.

i.

taken from the diagram, by measuring the armhole

the

in

same, and adding the desired fullness.

NUMBER

2.

THE SLEEVE LENGTH.

Put the short arm of the square up close under the arm, letting the arm hang
down to the side, and measure down to the wrist -joint. Always draft the sleeve
to this length, and then shorten or lengthen to suit the style wanted.

NUMBER
Take

3.

THE ELBOW MEASURE.

the elbow measure around the point

of

folded, holding the tape as tight or as loose as the

NUMBER
Take
hand

garment

when

to the elbow,

it

also be taken

full

from close up

the other measure

if

is

would put

their

part of the hand.

under the arm down

being part of the sleeve length; but this measure

and may be dispensed with

Too much

may

arm

THE HAND MEASURE.

measuring over the

secondary measure

the

wanted.

is

the hand measure with the fingers extended, as one

into a close sleeve,

4.

the elbow,

is

is

seldom used,

properly taken.

care cannot be exerted in taking the measures, and especially

in

the depth of scye and the under-arm measures.

Be

careful not to get the under-arm too long.

never be satisfactory in the

fit,

while

if

If

the under-arm

you
is

do, the

garment

too short,

it

is

will

easily

fitted.

On

the balance measures, as their

name would

imply, the

balance of the

garment depends, and you cannot have a worse garment than one that
balance, for
If

it

cannot be

designers and

person
in

in

front,

is

the perplexities of the old

taken too long, the garment

the centre back, at the waist;

it

now

fitters.

the second balance

front just
If

out of

the balance measures are not taken correctly, there will arise complications

that will not only puzzle the beginner, but they are

If

is

fitted.

will

when

it

is

will

stand away from the

unfastened, and

when fastened

stand away from the back of the neck, or have a fullness

in

the

below the neck.

the second balance

is

too short, there will be a draw from the back of the

neck, around the front of the armhole, and from there to the waist line, in the

centre of the back.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

The most

difficult part of this

work

to take the measures, but these are not

is

one only applies their mind to

and uses good judgment.

you must have the
fit in order to get the style.
One sees garments that fit, but have no style; garments that have both style and fit, but never was a garment worn that was stylish
hard to take

if

Too much

if

it

did not

on the

fit

it,

of garments, for

fit.

Spend a
pattern,

stress cannot be put

and

little

this

extra time in taking the measures correctly, and

time will be saved

many

times over

in the fitting of

in

drafting a

the garment.

In drafting the diagrams in this volume, the following measures will be used,
unless otherwise stated

Number

5.

The neck measure, 14 inches.

The bust measure, 36 inches.
The waist measure, 24 inches.
The hip measure, 40 inches.
The chest measure, 14 inches.

6.

Width

i.

2.

"
3.

"

4.

"

"
"

7.

"

8.

"

9.

"

10.

"

1.

"

12.

"

13.

of back measure, 12 inches.

Length of front measure, 13/0 inches.
The under-arm measure, 8 inches.

The depth of scye, 7 inches.

The over-shoulder measure, 12 inches.
The first balance measure, 8 K inches.
The second balance measure, 5^ inches.
The third balance measure, 10 inches.

These measures are not a standard

set of measures, but are selected for the

purpose of teaching, as they are easily carried

contend with

When

in

the application of

the pupil

is

the

same

out,

and have but few fractions to

to the diagram.

well versed in drafting

Diagram

to the

above measures,

it

good plan to substitute some other measures for these, so that they may be
competent to draft the diagram to any measures before taking up Diagram 2, and
the same is true of each succeeding diagram.
Having learned to draft Diagram to any measures, the best plan is now to
take the measures of some person, and make a pattern for them, and sew it up.
In this way one gets a practical application of each and every part, and they will
thoroughly understand why each measure is taken, and how to take it.
By this method of work, all patterns are the size the garment should be when
finished, and the needle must sew exactly where the edge of the pattern comes on
is

the cloth.

Therefore seams must be added at all points in cutting out the goods,

and the exact amount allowed for seams must be taken in joining the several parts.
This is best done by marking on the cloth at the edge of the pattern, and
allowing a seam when cutting out the goods, then by sewing on the mark, the
correct size and shape of the

garment

is

assured.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

For linings and all light weight goods on which a trace mark will show, the
marking should be done with a tracing wheel.
But for wool goods the best plan
is to mark out with French chalk, then cut out the pieces, and lay the patterns on
the opposite side of the goods, and mark the other side, thus giving the marks to
sew to at all points.
For stock patterns trace out each separate part with a double tracing wheel,
thereby allowing seams at all points on the pattern traced out.
These double
tracing wheels are adjustable, so that any width of

the pattern

in

tracing out the same.

seam desired can be given

to

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

DIAGRAM
Place the corner of the square at A, and draw line

Draw

to

line 2 at right

to

Draw

is

is

angle to line

Draw

is

across the top.

1.

3^ inches.

of an inch.

line 3 with point

to

of the curve-rule at C.

the depth of scye.

(7 inches for these measures.)

line 4 at right angles to line

to

is

>,

to

is

},

of the bust measure.

of the

width of back.

2.

(iS inches for these measures.)

(6 inches for these measures.)

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

F

to

to

is

always

is

one inch

shoulder

Draw

line 6 with point

Draw

line 7

to

is

Continue

to J

Draw

Draw

to

2' 4

is

Draw

to
off

is left

is

)i

to

is

always

Draw

(8 inches for these measures.)

of scye.

8.

of the curve-rule at

until

is

I.

1^

inch point of the neck rule (point J), at L,

measure (7 inches on the neck rule)

of the neck

y,

used

of the chest
2

1^

rule,

inches

the

of

when we apply

neck measure, and as that

L and swing

J at

the curve-

is

Sweep
P

From F

inch less than

line 13
is

measure (7 inches).

inches,

line 12 with point

to

and

at right angles to line 4.

of the curve-rule at N,

from O, pivoting

and blending into

at L.

the remainder of the over-shoulder measure,

to

is

inches

line 4.

H.

to

from

which added together equal

measure.

line 8.

neck measure we have completed the neck.

to

inches,

from the neck

to

angle to line

there

jo

at right angle to line 4.

by placing the

11

rule to

and

10.

From B
amount

inches.

swinging the curve-rule

touches line

and

of the curve-rule at B.

more than the depth

with point

is 2 )i

line

inches.

line 10

through E, forming

line 9 at right

J to

inch

touching at

(Over-

inches.

line 7

is

of the curve-rule near G,

down from E

the overs houlder measure, 5 inches.

4.

Draw

% of
1=5)

=6

line 5 with point

blending into line

at right angles to line 4.

than

less

divided by

12,

is

and

inches,

M
1

to

is 2

inches,

inches the

inches.

and from

amount

of

to

is

over-shoulder

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Draw

line 14

with point

of the curve-rule at L.

Draw

line 15 with point

of the curve-rule at

to

Draw

is

line 16 at right

angle to line

is

the first balance measure (8

inches).

to

is

the jirsl balance measure (8

inches).

to

is

to

is

y%

to

inch.

k<

inches.
of the curve-rule at T, letting

to

is

it

touch at D, and draw line 17

of the curve-rule, then place point 19 of the curve-rule at

diagram, and draw the rest of line

2.

to

up

on the Diagram.

the under-arm measure (8 inches).

Place point

from

inch.

17.

of the

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Draw

line 18 with point 15 of the curve-rule at S.

Draw

line 19 with point J of the curve-rule at S.

Measure down from

Draw

line

W the length of front (13

20 with point

This diagram

is

When

how

it is

the foundation of

all

garments that hang upon the shoulders,

learning

in

it

thoroughly,

order to fully

required to draw a line at right angle to another

line,

so that the line

line, have the edge of

drawn may form a perfect

and the diagram be drawn on the square, thus insuring a perfect

Having learned to draft by these given measures, you

substituting for them any others you may wish.

The measurements
in

in

drafted.

the square exactly on the given

right angle,

inches) locating X.

of the curve-rule at X.

and too much care cannot be taken

understand

.'..,

will

have no

are entirely individual, so there will be as

fit.

difficulty in

much

difference

the appearance of diagrams drawn from several sets of measures as there

the looks of the persons measured

shoulder

will

shoulder

will give a

Yokes

i.

e.,

is

in

a long depth of scye with a short over-

give a sloping shoulder, while a short depth of scye with a long over-

are

high square shoulder.

made by

the yoke be wanted

in

cutting off the front and back

one

in

any shape desired.

piece, lay the shoulder line together.

If

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM
A

to

is

to

is

is

inch,

more

mcn

34 f an

inch above

or less, as desired.
(f r these measures).

on Diagram

1.

^4

a-

with point U of the curve-rule at I), then without moving it,

Draw line
make a mark on the curve-rule at E, also at B, this measures the distance from E
to B; now hold the rule firmly at E, and swing it over to C, and draw line 2 from
E down through C, locating F the same distance from E as B is from E.
1

The

second balance measure

to B), there

to

remain
is

4^

is 5 },

inches,

and as

inches for the other two pieces

therefore 2)4 inches.

inch of

2.i 4

it

has been used

inches for each.

(A

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Draw

measure

at
5

to

is

from

line 3

straight.

inches, leaving the remaining

\i

to

the under-arm piece (from

in

inches of the second balance

2'.i

to K).

Draw line 4 with point S of the curve-rule at I, then make a mark on the
and G; now hold the rule firmly at I, and swing it over to H then draw
;

from

through H, and locate

Draw

from

line 6

to

same distance from

the

From A

is

inch

of the waist

to

is

jo

inches.

to

is

}.2

inches.

Draw

line 7 straight

to

is

is

from

is 2

inches

inches,

the

inches too wide, which

Draw

to

Draw

to

Draw

is

is

line

Sweep

is

2 J4

and as there has been used of this

there remain for the front 6
inches.
By meas-

12

is

inches,

,'o

we find it to be 9 2
amount must be taken out in darts.

of the curve-rule at P.

from T, pivoting

inch or

,'

T
,

of the

at P.

amount

for darts.

line 10 with point 10 of the curve-rule at

to

measure, the

the back of the garment, the remainder

in

inches.

)4

line 9

to O.

inches,

line 8 with point

Sweep

is

I.

inches.

back

for the

to

and from

secottd balance

uring across the front from S to R,

from

3 inches.

Half the waist measure

amount

is

line.

to

measure required

to

the under-arm seam.

in front of

from

which added together equal

amount
being

to

as

line

straight.

This completes the back to the waist

inches,

rule

P.

inch.

line 12

with point

of the curve-rule at O.

from V, pivoting at Q.

inches,

it

is

therefore 3

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

V

to \\

Draw

is

inches the remaining

line 13

for darts.

with point 10 of the curve-rule at O.

In drafting the back,

divisional of the

amount

it

may be

same may be

divided into

2, 3, 4,

or

to suit the taste, but the total

more

pieces,

and the

width of these pieces

must equal the second balance measure.

If

the back be

made wider

the person at the waist

and when
If

is

it

the centre back,

made narrower

be a fulness

in

at the waist line

Lines
but line

will

stand away from

the garment

not fastened,

than the second balance meas-

There

to the front of the armhole,

and 4 may be drawn with any curve on the rule that

must be the same as line 1, and line 5 the same as line 4.
1

is

the back just below the shoulder blades.

draw from the back of the neck down

ing the garment seem tight at this point.

also be a

when

it

fastened, there will be a fulness in the front just below the neck.

the back be

ure, there will

line, in

than the second balance,

-fr

will

mak-

suits the taste,

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Points

and

may be

located as desired without changing the

the

of

fit

garment.

There may be one, two or three darts in the front, and they may be located to
suit the style and design of the garment, but the amount taken out in darts is
absolute, and is determined by subtracting the second balance measure from onehalf the waist measure.
This gives the width the front should be, and what it
exceeds this amount (from S to R), must be taken out by darts.
garments worn on the upper part of the body are based on
is thoroughly understood, they can be easily drafted.

All

and

if

it

In taking out at the waist the difference

between the

balance measures, care and judgment should be used

same, so that there

centre back, for

if

will

too

not be too

much

is

much depression

in

this

diagram,

and the second

first

the distribution

in

one

taken out at this point, there

of

the

place, especially in

the

will

be a fulness

in

the

centre back between the shoulders.

When
3 inches,

the difference between the first and second balance measures

take out yA inch at

A (Q

to

in

Diagram

In a broad-shouldered person, as well as

sion in the centre back, but the
waist.

some

For such forms take out a small amount

in this

less

than

i).

others, there

is

but

little

form tapers very much from the arm-pit

greater proportion should be taken out from

shown

is

at A,

to G,

and from B

and from

depresto the

to F, while a
to K, than

is

diagram.

In drafting the front for forms of this description, the

amount

be divided so as to make a narrow front dart, and a wide back dart.

for darts should

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM
The

following measures are used

the variations frequently

made

2.
in

this

Figure
diagram

15,

As

the neck

is

order to show some of

in drafting.

Bust 40, Waist 28, CJiest 16, Back

Under- Arm 7 % Depth of Scye "]%, Over-Shoulder
Balance 7, Height of Dart 9)4, Width of Shoulders

Neck

in

2.

large (15 inches), the

be greater than for preceding measures,

13,

Length of Front

13,

First Balance

10,

14)4,

Second

15.

amount of the neck on the back should

to B is therefore 2 inches.

In preceding diagrams the front and back are together; hereafter they will be

separated so that the under-arm lines will not cross each other.

to

is

one-half the bust measure, 20 inches plus 4 inches, 24 inches.

to

is

the first balance measure, 10 inches.

E
(from

4 inches, that amount having been added to

to D), in order to separate the front from the back.

to

is

}2

the bust measure

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

G

to

to

While

one-sixth of the neck measure,

is

is

one-sixth of the neck measure,

inches.

}.,

inches.

should be one-sixth of the neck measure,

this

fractions, but

difficult

make

it

is

it

not necessary to use

inches for small necks, 2)i for medium, and

for large.
to

to

to

Draw

is

the first balance measure, 10 inches.

is

is

the

same

as

to

(4 inches).

the height of dart, q> 4

a straight line

inches.

from N, parallel to the former dart

tops of darts on this line as

shown

in

line,

and locate the

the diagram.

Long shoulders are in style at present, and will be at different periods of

time.
The length of shoulder desired may be found by measuring across the back
from point to point of the shoulders, and
Place point

this

of the curve-rule at B,

measure

is

applied as follows

and extend the shoulder

line (line

1) as

shown on the diagram.

Place the corner of the square at

with the long arm on the draft line

centre of the back, and locate P on the line

(7

in

the

one-half the width of the shoulders

inches) from O.

Place point 12 of the curve-rule at R, and draw line

Place point
3) as

of the curve-rule at

1,

from

to P.

and extend the front shoulder line (line

to the front as was made to

shown on diagram, making the same addition

the back shoulder.

Draw
In

line 4 with point

of the curve-rule at T.

making long shoulders, do not increase the width

only produce fulness

in

the back, but will

back at R, as it will not

give the appearance of narrow shoulders.
of

This diagram shows the under-arm seam located well to the front of the armand the back divided into four pieces instead of three, as heretofore. This
preferable for stout forms that are short-waisted.
The pieces may be shaped to

hole,
is

suit the taste.

is

to

located at the width of chest point.

is

one

inch.

Place the corner of the square at Y, with the long arm on the bust

line, and
Z where the short arm touches the arm-hole, and put a notch in the pattern
and goods at this point.
Put the inside seam of the sleeve at this notch, and it
will hang correctly.

locate

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM
A

to

is

inches always, because the hip measure

is

taken

inches below

the waist-line.

Draw

B
I

to

line 2 at right angle to line

is

1.

the third balance measure (10 inches).

)raw line 3 with point

W of

the curve-rule at D.

Place the corner of the square at E, and locate

per dotted

line.

at right angle to line 4, as

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

H

Place the corner of the square at G, and locate

per dotted

centre between

is

line 6

with point

Draw

line 7

with point

W of

is

J,

centre between

line 9 with point 2 of the curve-rule at

Draw

line 10 with point

Draw

line

P, as

W of

with point

per dotted

and S, as per dotted

R and S

must

to

is

and

P,

and locate

and

S,

and locate

is

Place point

a straight line with

in a straight

line with

line.

is

same

as

and

P,

same amount

of

must be a duplicate
swell on the back side of

therefore

on the front side of the back, the distance from

to C.

to C.

line 12 with point \\

in

line.

same as from

the

J.

of the curve-rule at S.

Place point 16 of the curve-rule at V, touching at

\V to

at right angle to line 8, as

are duplicate points of

be the

Draw

of the curve-rule at P.

the front at the hip as there

as

the curve-rule at L.

point of O, and as there should be the

to

5,

and K.

Place the edge of the square on

angle to line

at right

line.

Draw

and

and locate

line.

Place the edge of the square on

as

the curve-rule at G.

Place the corner of the square at L, and locate

5,

of the curve-rule at E.

Place the corner of the square at

per dotted

angle to line

F and H.

Draw

per dotted

at right

line.

inches always, as the lup measure

W, and draw
is

taken

line 13

inches below

tfie

ivaist-line.

of the curve-rule at X,

Half the hip measure

used
line

in
14,

and draw

line 14

through

to line 12.

20 inches, and as 10 inches of this amount has been

the back (B to C), there remain 10 inches for the front.
By measuring

it

is

is

found to be 13,

must be taken out

in darts.

'.;

inches,

which

is

\.

inches too wide

this

amount

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

Draw

line 15

through the centre of the dart locating Y.

Draw

line 16

through the centre of the other dart locating

to (a)

Draw

is

;.2

\V of the curve-rule

at (b).

inch.

line 18 with point 2 of the curve-rule at (d).

There were
dart, there

inch.

'.

line 17 with point

to (c)

Draw

is

Z.

3 >

remain

to (e)

is

14

inches for darts, and having used

2 14

inches for the second dart.

inches.

inch (a to c) in the

first

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Draw
Z

W of

line 19 with point

to (g)

is

(f).

inches.

Draw

line

20 with point

Lines

4, 5

and

thread of the goods

the curve-rule at

of the curve-rule at (h).

8 are the waist lines,

in

and should always be kept on a lengthwise

cutting the lining

but on a crosswise thread of the goods

in cutting the outside.

Notches should be cut

in

the pattern, and the goods at D, E, G,

and these notches must be kept together

garment, both

these notches

The

it is

impossible to

third balance

is

it

easily

tell

how

it

be

Do

>

remedied

but

if

inches longer than the

too short,

first

not get the back too wide, as

are thrown back, but will

If

the chest

S,

the

is

make

fit,

and without

should go together.

measure should be taken very

fulness in the back dart at the hip line.

will

P and

the lining and the outside goods.

these points are not kept together, the garment cannot

If

long,

in

L,

J,

joining the separate pieces of

in

it

is

In an

loose,

bad

and

defect,

if

should be too

it

and

will

produce a

ordinary form the third balance

balance measure.
it

will

not only wrinkle

when

the shoulders

the garment appear tight across the chest.

too wide, the garment will appear tight across the back

the arms are thrown forward, and the garment will break

in

when

front of the arm-hole.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

DIAGRAM

4.

SLEEVE.
Measure the arm-hole
to

this

amount add

measure used
inches,

and

if

drafting the sleeve;

in

of the pattern for

-the desired fulness, the

e.,

i.

which the sleeve

sum
if

is

be the

will

and

to be drafted,

size of the

arm-hole

the arm-hole of the pattern

is

17

inches will give the fulness for the effect desired, the sleeve must

be drafted to a 20-inch arm-hole measure.

The

following are the measures used

Arm-hole 20

inches.

in this

Sleeve length

diagram

Elbow

18 inches.

Hand

inches.

12

inches.

Place the corner of the square at A, and draw line

Draw

line 2 at right angle to line

straight.

1.

to

is

one-fourth of the arm-hole measure (5 inches for these measures).

to

is

the rejnainder of the arm-hole measure (15 inches).

Place the corner of the square at C, and draw line

to

is in

the centre between

is

in

the centre between

E and

is

from B up to point

7,

between the two

and draw the

rest of line

to

is

of the curve-rule at D,

which joins
lines,

it

touch at E, and draw

of the curve-rule; then reverse the rule,

4 through

Place point 12 of the curve rule at F, letting

lines 4

blending

it

to B).

C.

from point 8 of the curve-rule through F to

Place point

r.

and C.

of the curve-rule at B, letting

of the curve-rule at E,

line

angle to line

one-fourth of the arm-hole measure (5 inches, the same as

Place point

Draw

3 at right

and

line

it

to line

1.

1.

with point

rest of line

5.

of the curve-rule

to the highest points of both.

the sleeve length (18 inches).

and place point

touch at D, and draw line

and draw the

5,

line 4

midway

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

H

is

to

Draw

to
to

B and

the same,

is

and as the elbow measure

one-half
therefore

is

I.

to J straight.

15 inches,

is

to be taken out

from

line 8

to J

and G.

the sleeve length (18 inches).

is

the centre between

is

the centre between

on each

12

is

inches.

}.,

inches.

\i

Draw

line 9

Draw

line 10 with point J of the curve-rule at B.

Draw

line

Draw

line 12 with point 22 of the curve-rule at

inches

inches, there are 3

side.

with point 15 of the curve-rule at D.

with point

of the curve-rule at K.
L.

Place the corner of the square at G, with the long arm running up; hold the

edge of the long arm

inside

draw

line 13 with the short

in

line with point

edge

in line

shown by dotted

(as

lines),

and

arm.

Place the corner of the square at

inside

with point

(as

I,

with the long arm running up; hold the

shown by dotted

lines),

and draw

line

14 with

the short arm.

G
I

to

to

to

is

is

inch more than one-half of the

is

inch less than one-half of the

hand measure

hand measure

(5 inches).

(3 inches).

one-half of the elbow measure (6 inches) plus

.'.,

inches (y

i4

inches).

Draw

line 15

Draw

line 16 with point 22 of the curve-rule at

Draw

line

prefer the

seam

To make

with point

of the curve-rule at O.

17 with point 22 of the curve-rule

O.

on

line 4 at

any point you may

to be located.

a one-piece sleeve with fulness at the

and 14 past the centre

below where they

cross.

of the diagram,

back of the

cuff,

draw

lines 13

and locate point P three inches straight

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

M

Draw

line 18 with point

Draw

line 19 with point 12 of the curve-rule at P.

of the curve-rule at P.

more width be desired at the hand, draw a line from E to

Spread the pattern apart at P, keeping
pattern in two on this line.
If

until the desired size

Any
line

12

there to
will

sleeve

from

on

is

As an
down on line

this diagram.

to L, then on line 8 to O, then

Place point

have a sleeve with a dart

In the leg of

mutton

at the

sleeve,

at

M,

elbow

letting line 16 rest

together at

16 rest on line

15,

illustration, cut

on

)6 to N, and from

on

line 15,

and you

the under-arm piece.

in

another illustration of variations

cutting out the upper and under sleeve, and placing points
letting line

it

and cut the

produced at the hand.

worn may be produced by

line 14.

P,

is

and

given.

By

together,

the top of the sleeve will be increased, forming a

sleeve with a large top, but fitting closely at the elbow and hand.

arm

the sleeve length from close up under the

Take

draft the sleeve to this length, putting the elbow

in

to the wrist joint,

the centre

and

then lengthen or

shorten to style of sleeve desired, or depth of cuff to be attached.

Do
but draft

not draft a short or a long sleeve, and then put the elbow
it

to the actual length,

In taking measures

too wide, as

it

in

the centre

and then shorten or lengthen as desired.

and drafting patterns, avoid getting the back and chest

a small arm-hole, which will have to be trimmed out,

make

will

leaving the sleeve with not enough fulness.

The

sleeve should be fulled into the

when long shoulders

sleeve should be quite

When

are worn, only a

full in

front

garment

little

at all parts of the arm-hole, but

fulness

short shoulders are in style, and

to

wanted

at the top, but the

and back of the arm-hole.

it

is

desired to have the sleeve stand

up above the shoulder, give more length to the top

distance from A to B and from C to D more than
and making

is

of the sleeve
J

by making the

of the arm-hole measure,

the remainder.

Individuals having the

same bust measure may require

different

sizes

and

shapes of arm-hole; i. e., a person with a round form and narrow shoulders will
have a narrow chest and back, giving a wide arm-hole, and one having broad
At the
shoulders will have a wide chest and back, making a narrow arm-hole.

same time the arm-holes may be the same

the other is wide and shallow.

size,

one being narrow and deep, while

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

The

sleeve should be drafted to the shape of the arm-hole by varying the

portion of the arm-hole measure that

is

used from

to B,

making

it

greater for

the deep arm-hole, and less for the shallow.

drawing

Instead of

drawn

top of the sleeve

made

To

more from

may

a similar variation

By an opposite

line

may be

more width to the

giving still more width

E, thereby giving

be made at E,

variation with lines 4 and

5,

the top of the sleeve ma)'

narrow.
insure a correct hanging sleeve, there should be a notch at the top of the

sleeve (which

is

the centre between

top of the arm-hole (which

at

is

sleeve should be placed at Z, as

The notch
in

through E, the upper part of that

to a point one-half inch or

to the top.

be

line 4

sleeves, as

it

E and F), and

T on Diagram

shown

in

at the top of the sleeve

shows where

is

Diagram

5),
2,

notch should be kept at the

while the inside seam of the

Figure

very essential

to locate the

the top of the arm-hole of the garment.

this

same

in

in

2.

putting tucks and plaits

order that they

may come

to

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

DIAGRAM

5.

STRAIGHT FRONT WAIST.

This diagram
forms that are

is

demand

intended to meet the

and

front,

flat -in

for a straight front waist, for

for the straight front corset,

adopted for general use, as the average form has a depression

which

at the waist line,

will give

more or

less trouble, while

and should not be

in

the centre front,

Diagram

will give a

smooth-fitting garment.

This diagram

is

French bias

also used for a

dart,

and when that

effect

is

wanted, the front dart should be narrow and the back dart wide.

Draw

to

line

Draw

is

Draw

through B.

the length of front (14 inches).

line 2 with point

to

straight from

of the curve-line at C.

of the curve-rule at D.

inches.

is 5

line 3 with point

to

is

}2

inches.

to

is

inches.

One-half of the waist measure

and as the second balance is s

inches, that amount of the waist measure has been used in the back, leaving the
remainder,

on

line

7 inches, as
it

2,

is

to

to

is

is

'.;

the

the

12

amount

same

inches;

as

for darts

to

is

therefore

inches too wide, and this

F and

H.

J is

the centre between

E and

G.

Place the edge of the square on

line 4 with point

2 },

inches),

more or

less,

if

desired.

(4 inches in this case).

the centre between

Draw

it

Measuring across the front

in darts.

is

inches,

the width the front should be.

found to be

amount must be taken out

12

is

and

J,

and locate K, as per dotted

of the curve-rule at K.

line.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Draw

line 5

with point 10 of the curve-rule at K.

Draw

line 6

from

Draw

line 7 straight.

to

is

to

is

to

to

straight.

inch (more or less, as desired).

the

same

as

to L.

the remainder of the amount for darts

is

inches

(2;.,

for

these

measures).

One-half the hip measure

that

amount

20 inches, and as the third balance

is

measure has been used

Measuring through on

of the hip

in

the width the front should be.

inches

it is

therefore 6 inches too wide, which

Having used

of

this

amount

10 inches,

line

3, it

is

found to be 16

amount must be taken out

inches (from

2-}^

is

the back, leaving 10 inches as

to

in darts.

H), there remain

'.,

inches for the other dart.

to

is

therefore

to

is

3 inches

3K

inches.

(more or

less, as desired).

Draw

line 8 with point

Draw

line 9 with point 10 of the curve-rule at P.

Draw

line 10

from

Draw

line

with point C,

It

to

straight.

or E, blending into line

In such cases proceed as follows

the shoulder.
to

to

Draw

is

is

}4

When

line 12

there

from

is

to

12,

back of

straight.

13,

a difference

while the depth of scye

following changes
6

at the

inches.

14

and

and add

15,

this piece to the back, as

between the length of back and the combined

depth of scye and under-arm measures (as

14,

9.

inch.

Cut through on lines

shown in the diagram.

is

at P.

sometimes preferable to have the seam on top instead of

is

o of the curve-rule

added

in

these measures the length of back

to the

under-arm 8 equals

15),

make

the

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

U

to

Draw
draw

the length of back, 14 inches.

is

a straight line from

to \Y,

this sloping waist line

from

lines

and with points

down

and

W of

to the hip line, as

the curve-rule

shown by

clotted

lines in the diagram.

Should the length of back be greater than the combined depth of scye and
under-arm measures, the variation will be similar, V being below instead of above
the regular waist

The

line.

waist line notches are placed as

in

previous diagrams, and the original

waist lines must be kept on the straight of the goods.

Diagram

5 is

also used for shirt-waists

goods, and leaving the

Extra length
lines,

amount

added

is

and may be varied to

When

by placing

line

on the straight

of the

shown by

clotted

for darts as a fulness.

to give the blouse in the front, as

suit prevailing styles.

gathers are wanted at the neck, proceed as follows

Place the corner of the square at A, and draw a line at right angle to line

Measure out on

this line

from

and from this point draw a line

to where the gathers will begin
line to

the

amount

that

parallel to line

is

to be gathered into the neck,

also

1.

draw a

line

from

this point

at the side of the neck, cutting the pattern on this

prevent wrinkles running from the neck to the arm-hole.

This back

may

be used for a shirt-waist by gathering

it

at the waist line the

would be taken out by the darts, thereby making the distance from
under-arm seam to under-arm seam twice the second balance measure. This is
best done by cutting a tape to twice the second balance measure plus two seams,

amount

that

and gathering the back

Line
at T, an

and

at the waist line

onto this tape.

being on the top of the shoulder,

extension

this addition to

may be made to the top

the sleeve may be formed

if

the top of the sleeve be placed

of the sleeve to run

up

to the neck,

into any design that the fancy

may

dictate.

Line 12

will

over the sleeve, as

also assist in designing yokes which

it

shows the angle

at

have points running out

which they should run

the top of the sleeve, or meet other designs on the same.

in

order to lay on

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

A TIGHT FITTING BACK IN ONE PIECE.

Draft a tight-fitting back
cut out the pieces;

in

the regular

manner

place the pieces together at

re-shape the arm-hole, as

shown by dotted

Lay the centre back on

shown in Diagram 2, and

the bust and waist lines, and
as

lines in illustration.

a fold of the paper at the neck

and waist

mark all around the pattern. Cut the folded paper on these
have a tight-fitting back in one piece.

lines,

points,

and

and you

will

wanted with a small amount of gathers at the waist, in the centre

inch
back, place the centre back piece on the fold of the paper, at the neck, and
If

a back

is

}._,

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

from the fold
at the waist

Do

at the waist line; this will give

inch for gathers in the centre back,

line.

not try to draft a tight-fitting back by taking out

the under-arm

seam the

ures, as

not

it

the waist

will
line,

and the waist

fit,

difference between the

first

for the following reasons:

By putting

the arm-hole has changed shape, and

line

is

in the centre back and at

and the second balance meas-

is

the pieces together at

lower at the under-arm seam,

curved instead of straight; but when

the garment

is

put

together they will have resumed their original position, thereby holding the garment
in

at the waist line in

the back, which would not be the case

drafted by taking the suppression out

in

if

the pattern were

the centre back and at the under-arm

seam.

By
same

them together, as in
the pieces were sewed together, except

cutting out the pieces, and placing

effect

is

slight fulness

obtained as

if

back of the arm-hole, which

is

really

illustration, the

that there

no objection, as

it

is

squares up

the figure and prevents a round-shouldered effect.

Do

not put gathers at the waist except where there

is

a surplus of goods, as

gathers are for the same purpose that darts are put between the pieces, and must

not be put into the back except where darts would be put into the same

produce a tight and smooth

The

if

order to

fit.

centre back and the side

piece cut separate,

in

desired.

body may be

cut together,

and the under-arm

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

6.

Figure

2.

A TIGHT FITTING FRONT WITHOUT DARTS.

This diagram shows the front of a corset cover, and further
variations that can be

made

Draft a tight-fitting waist pattern, and cut out

by the dotted

illustrates the

drafting.

in

all

around the neck, as shown

then cut the front from the darts up to the top of the pattern

lines;

place the pieces together at the top and bottom of the darts, and shape the top of

the pattern as

This

shown

in illustration.

will give a tight-fitting front

above the

bust,

Many

with the exception that

which should be gathered

may be made from

styles of corset covers

it

will

have a fulness

at the top.

the waist patterns by simple

variations, similar to this illustration.

There

is

also

shown

in

diagram the change necessary for a

this

shirt waist

with fulness gathered into the neck band.

Draw

line

Draw

line 2 at right angle to line

to

Draw

is

straight.

the

amount

that

is

line 3 parallel to line

Locate

Draw

C where

line 4

to

1.

be fulled

in at

the neck.

1.

the gathers should begin at the neck.

from B to

straight,

and cut the pattern on

venting wrinkles running from the neck to the arm-hole.

to

Draw
Sweep

is

twice the

line 5

amount

of blouse wanted.

with point 12 of the curve-rule at E.

line 6, pivoting at

A.

this line, thus pre-

J!

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

7.

COLL A R
Draw

line

to

to

is

is

straight.

three-fourths of the neck measure.

the height of collar,

inches (more or

Sweep

line 2

from

Sweep

line 3

from C, pivoting

(10 }.$ inches for these measured.)

less, as desired).

B, pivoting at A.

Measure around from B on

A.

at
line

2,

one inch

less

than the neck measure (13

inches for these measures), establishing D.

Draw

line 4

from

through

to line

3.

This diagram gives a perfectly round or regular

If

one should be desired lower

is

centre between

Draw

is 3 g

from

through E, as shown on the diagram.

of an inch.

dotted line 6 with point

Draw

dotted line

to

is 3/6

proceed as follows:

B and D.

Draw

to

to

dotted line

in front,

collar.

with point

of an inch

(more

Draw

line 8 with point

Draw

line 9 with point

Lines

N
if

of the curve-rule at F.
of the curve-rule at F.

desired).

of the curve-rule at
of the curve-rule at

H.
H.

and 9 may be drawn with any curve desired, and the distance from

varied to suit the taste.

To make

a straighter collar for a slim, long neck,

distance, say the full neck measure,

one-half of the neck measure.

to

B should be a greater
A to B should be

and for a very short neck

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

8.

TURN-DOWN COLLAR.

this

Draw

line

to

straight.

one-half of the neck measure, plus one-half inch,

is

measure).

Draw

to

line 2 at right angle to line

is

inches always.

[A

1.

(y

;.,

inches for

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

This diagram shows one-half of the
of the paper, the

whole

collar

Line 5 may be drawn

may be shaped to suit the

This collar

through on

is

in

one

may be

collar,

and

if

line 2

be placed on a fold

cut.

with any curve desired, and the point of the collar at

taste.

piece, but

may be made

with the band separate by cutting

line 4.

The band may he narrowed

around, but should be drafted as

in

in the front, or

diagram.

it

may be narrowed

all

the

way

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

DIAGRAM

9.

CAPES.
Draft front and back to the measures of the person for

whom

the cape

is

to

be made

Cut them

out,

the length of cape in back.

to

Draw

is

line 2 at right

to

is

to

is

Draw
F

angle to line

1.

through F.

inches.

Pivot at G, and sweep line 4 from where

front, as

5,

arm

lono-

of the square

blending into line

Draw

line 7

over to line

around to the

If

in

front,

in

Draw

s.

and draw

and sweep

line 8

from where

line 6 at right

angle to

it

will

blend into line

6,

line 3
is

through

this will give a regular military

the back be desired, place

a cape fitting closely

to

line

on the fold of the goods, and

more fulness

Extend

on

4.

and place B one inch or more from the

2,

7.

Place line

If

blends into line

from the neck down, as shown on diagram.

Pivot at neck

cape.

it

shown on diagram.

Put the
line

shown on diagram.

inches.

from

is

lines together, as

inch.

line 3

to

and place shoulder

on the fold of the goods,

fold.

on the sides be desired, proceed as follows:

straight to line

4,

establishing H.

4 inches (more or less as desired).

a straight line from

Place point

to G.

of the curve-rule at F,

blend into the line just drawn.

and draw a

line

down

to

where

it

will

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

H

to

Draw

is

the same as

a straight line from

to

I.

to G.

Place point 22 of the curve-rule at F, and draw a line

down

to

where

it

will

blend into the line just drawn.

This

will

To make

make a

on

J,

at the shoulder.

a cape without this dart at the bottom, but with one on the shoulder,

cut the pattern from

point

dart from the bottom up to

up the dotted

letting the dotted lines

line to

meet up

F,

and then on

line 3 to

D.

to G, thus forming a dart from

Place

to G.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

DIAGRAM

Figure

9.

2.

ROLL COLLAR.
Draw

line 10 straight.

to

is

to

is

the neck measure

u inches.

Sweep

line

Sweep

line 12

to

Draw

Draw

from L, pivoting

at K.

from M, pivoting

at K.

one-half of the neck measure

is

is

same

the

to

is

to

is

as

to

to

is

is

the height of collar

>

Draw

line

is

the

with point

same

as

Draw

line iS with point

Draw

line

By

to O.

4,

inches.
13.

of the curve-rule

on

line 13.

4)0 inches.

20 with point

of the curve-rule

have more

sailor collar

It

may be

is

roll,

on

line 14.

of the curve-rule at S.

to S.

of the curve-rule

J of

on

line 14.

the curve-rule at L.

increasing the distance from

collar will

inches, at right angles to line 14.

line 16 with point

to

on the cape.

the height of collar

1

7 inches.

inches at right angles to line

Draw

to N.

to

from

line 15 with point

from

line 14 straight

Draw

line 13 straight

to

14 inches.

to

O, from

to S,

and by diminishing the distance,

shown by the dotted

varied to any shape desired.

lines.

it

and from
will

have

to T, the

less.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

COATS, JACKETS
Take

the measure for outside garments in the

make

ments, and
i

Add

inch to the waist measure.

Add

inch to the hip measure.

Add

j3

inch to the chest measure.

Add %

inch to the width of back.

Add

inch to the depth of scye.

-}^

Add

Add

inch to the over shoulder.

\i

inch to the elbow measure.

inch to the
J4

hand measure.

inch from the under

In drafting coats the

are applied

in

the

same

is

same manner, except

made somewhat wider

Use

arm

measure.

principles are used as for a waist,

one dart instead of two; and

in

piece

as for other gar-

inches to the bust measure.

'.,

Add

same manner

the following changes:

Add

Subtract

out

AND OTHER OUTSIDE GARMENTS.

that the

in

amount

for darts

and the measures

is

generally taken

the back at the waist line the center back

for coats than for waists.

a fine but firm piece of linen canvas in the front of a coat, and stiffen the

bust with a piece of hair-cloth, thus insuring the coat holding shape.
In

selecting canvas for a coat, care should be exercised in procuring a piece

that will not so/ten

when dampened and put under

thus allowing of proper working of the coat

Do

not

make

a coat too tight

fitting,

loose from the shoulders, making' sure that

in

the

the iron, but will

become

stiff,

in pressing,

but

it is

let

it

hang smooth and reasonably

well balanced

that

is,

that

it

hanes

same manner when buttoned or unbuttoned.

The

balance of a garment

is

wholly

in

the balance measures, and

taken correctly and applied as per instructions given

be a perfect, balanced garment.

in this

if

they are

work, the result must

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

DIAGRAM

10

DESIGN FOR A HALF-FITTING, FLY FRONT COAT, WITH

LAPEL.
C

is

to

the centre between

is

inch, but

and B (B

may be more

is

the width of chest point).

or less

if

desired.

Square down from D, establishing E, F and G.

There are

3 inches for dart,

but for a half-fitting coat only

inches should

be taken out, namely, 3^ of an inch on each side of F.

this

There are 2 % inches for dart on the hip line, but for a half-fitting coat yz
amount may be left in by taking out 5/s of an inch on each side of G.

Draw
I

to

line

is

to

Draw

from

to

of

straight.

inch.

is

inch.

line

from

through

this gives

inch of lap, which

is

called the

button-stand.

it

The next point to establish is L, which locates the bottom of the lapel, and
may be higher or lower than is shown in diagram, as style and fancy dictate.

Draw

line 3

from

straight to the neck curve on the side, extending

the curve to insure a perfect blending of the

lishing

lines, as

M, which may be higher or lower, according

shown

in

diagram, thus estab-

to the location of L.

Place point 12 of the curve-rule at M, and draw line 4 from

C, locating

Draw

M
P

to

is

as desired.

line 5 with point

is

of the curve-rule at N.

1^8 inches straight over from

the centre between

and O.

Draw

line 6

from

to

straight.

Draw

line 7

from P to

straight.

M.

beyond

down toward

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

Place the long

and locate

arm

of the square

on

line

with the short arm touching at N,

making the dotted

at the corner of the square,

right angles to line

7,

line

at right angles to line

7,

Draw

line 9 with point 22 of the curve-rule at R.

first

of the curve-rule at

draw

line 3

fold to

where

it

7,

after

was designed

it

as

The

many

the

you wish

seam

is

same

as

to

N.

it

it

when finished
when cut it will

to look

so that

in

extended to the shoulder, point 18 of

the next curve, point

used at the arm-hole to give the desired shape.

of the

to finish, line 7 being the break line of the lapel.

the curve rule being used at the shoulder;

some

and locate

on the diagram.

which proceed to transpose

In this diagram the side-body

is

7,

from where the lapel should end to where

blend into the neck eoree, then design

then draw lines 6 and

how

to

line 8 with point

In designing lapels,

rule

making the distance from

Draw

will

at

to

7.

Place the corner of the square at O, with the long arm on line

it

from

curves that

may be used

This

is

of the curve-

done

to illustrate

in designing.

dotted line on the front, running from the top of dart to shoulder, shows

the dart

seam may be

carried up to meet the

seam

of-

the back, point

of the

curve rule placed at the shoulder giving the curve here illustrated.
In a half-fitting coat the full

amount

for dart at

G may

be taken out, giving a

smooth-fitting coat at the hips.

box

front coat

may be produced by

would otherwise be taken out by

darts.

leaving

in,

for fulness, the

amount

that

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

ii.

DESIGN FOR CORSET COAT AND COLLAR.

A

to

is

*s inches.

arm touch

Place the corner of the square at B, letting one

I,

making C

<8

Place point 12 of the curve-rule at D, and draw line

as

Cut out the back, and place the shoulder lines of the
shown by the dotted lines on the diagram, locating E.

Draw
F

to

is

through E, blending into

line 3 straight

from

line 4 straight

to

is

to J

is

A, and draw line

line

from
front

to B.

and back together,

2.

iy$ inches.

is

1^8 inches from line

Draw

at

inches from B.

1<|

to G.

inches, or width of collar.

same

the

3.

as

to

I.

Draw

line 5

Draw

line 6 with point

Draw

line 7 with point 10 of the curve-rule at

from

to J straight.

of the curve-rule at

I.

H,

letting

it

touch

line 2 at

the

centre break-line (line 7 in diagram 10).

to

is

the

same

as

By measuring around
is
it

3,

to B,

inches.

the neck-gorge where the collar sews on, from

to E,

it

found to be 8 m inches, and as the collar should be slightly fulled on to the coat,
}i inch longer, or 8 } inches; therefore measure from B, on lines 2 and

should be
8

yi

inches, locating

Draw

to

Draw

line 8

is

from

'4

lines 9

M.

at right angles to line

of an inch.

and 10

straight.

3.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

This completes the
for canvas

goods

and under

collar, the

collar,

and

two halves sewing together on

line 8

lines 9

and 10

should be placed on a lengthwise fold of the

for outside or top collar.

Place a piece of paper under the diagram and trace the collar as follows

ginning at C, trace lines

shown

in Fig.

The

r,

2, 3, 9,

10, 5, 6;

trace the break-line on lines 4

Be-

and

7,

as

2.

dotted lines on FiV.

indicate the straieht of eoods for under collar

and

canvas.

The yA
in

inch fulness allowed on collar should be eased in for about

inches

front of shoulder seam.

This diagram of a coat shows the front and back having four pieces each, and
time is called a Corset Coat, further illustrating the variations that

at the present

may be made

in

diagrams shown

designing, the
in this

work.

same

principles being used in this as

in all

previous

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

12.

DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT WITH PEAK LAPELS.

A

to

is

inches (more or less according to size of person).

to

is

J2

inches (or the

same

Draw

line

Then

locate the end of the lapel

as

to B).

straight.

in

this

diagram

it

is

located at D, but

may

or lower.
be hieher
o

Draw

to

Draw

this

cut

is

line 2

is

from

I) to

where

blends into the neck-curve, establishing E.

it

yi inches, or the height of the collar-stand.

line 3 straight

the centre between

Draw

line 4 straight

Draw

line 5

diagram, but

from

from

to F.

and

from

F.

to G.

straight, locating

may be more

Draw

line 6 straight

Draw

line 7

from

with point

or

less.

as desired.

to

is 3

inches (more or less), locating

of the curve-rule at

<.;

inches in

I.

I.

Having designed the lapel as you wish, proceed

will fold to where designed to finish.

to transpose

it

so that

when

it

Place the long

and locate

arm

of the square

right angles to line

Draw

line 8

4,

from

Place the long

locate

on

line 4, letting the short

arm touch

at

H,

as per dotted line.

Place the corner of the square at

and

with the long arm on line

with the distance from

arm

to

to

and locate

the same as that from

J to

at

H.

straight.

of the square

as per dotted

4,

line.

on

line 4, letting the short

arm touch

at

I,

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Place the corner of the square at L, letting the long arm rest on line

locate

from L

at right angles to line 4,

to

with the distance from

to

the

same

4,

and

as that

I.

Draw

line 9

Draw

line 10 with point 5 of the curve-rule at

from

to

straight.

M.

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR.

Place the edge of the rule at H, letting
line 4,

as

and draw

line

making the distance from

locating F, and

1,

touch the point where

it

line 8 crosses

to

F the same

to K.

Cut out the back and place the shoulder

lines together, as

shown by dotted

lines in diagram, locating N.

Draw

to

is

line 12 straight

is

the

Draw

from

F through

the height of collar stand, 1}$ inches.

same distance from

line 13 straight

from

line

is

the width of collar (1

is

the

Draw
The

same

as

collar

Measuring the neck-gorge from

the collar must be fulled

to

Draw

is

in

from O,

is

:
i

inches.

inches in this diagram).

+ inch,

it

S.

to line

6,

to N,

must be

as shown,

it

is

if

desired.

found to be

4.)^ inches,

inches long.

line 15 at right angles to line 12.

inch.

Draw

line 16

from

Draw

line 17 straight

Draw

line 18 with point

to

therefore 5 inches.

as

through

may be curved from S

to R.

from

line 14 straight

to P.

P to
to

N.

is

to

straight.

from V, crossing

line 15,

J
i

of the curve-rule at O.

inches from U.

and as

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

Trace out the

on lines

collar

Trace the break-line on

By

lines 18

may be made

back

is

first

such cases the button-stand, or

14,6.

13.

by taking out

the back, at the waist

in

and the second balance measures, while

a half-

made with

lap,

and

this style of collar

lapel,

and

in

should be about twice as wide at the bust as

it

should slope so as to run parallel to the edge of the

at the waist line; the dart

coat

17.

produced by taking out one-half of that amount.

Tight-fitting fronts are also

is

and

16,

for this front

the difference between the

fitted

12,

r,

laying line 20 on the fold of the goods a regular box coat will be produced,

but a fitted back

line,

when buttoned.
Extra fulness

bottom

at the

may be produced

of a coat

as follows

Place line 20 on the fold of the goods at the neck, and

fold of the

goods

at the

bottom (dotted

line 21

showing the

/^

inches from the

This

fold of goods).

gives 3 inches of fulness in the centre back at the bottom of the coat.

Cut the pattern on line 22, separating it

together at X, as shown on diagram by dotted
Proceed
at the

bottom

The

first

in

like

manner with the

until the desired fulness

at

inches,

through on

produced.

same

result

would be produced as by adding a

amount under the arm; but by observing the dotted lines it

arm-hole has been changed in shape, and that at Y it has
is

goods back

The
ment

is

line 23, separating

impression might be that by cutting on line 22 and spreading the

pattern at the bottom, that the

garment

keeping the pattern

lines.

front, cutting
is

sewn together

its

to

line 22.

this will resume

where the slash was made at

will

be seen that the

raised, but

its

garments where fulness

the fulness where you wish

it
it

drawn

wanted

where

it is

is

wanted

at line 23.

at a given point.

Put

by cutting and spreading the pattern at that point,

is not wanted with the expectation that it will be

but never put fulness where

to the point

the

former position when the gar-

on the person, throwing the fulness to where the slash was made
all

when

former position, thereby forcing the

front has also raised at Z, but will drop to

This rule applies to

like

if

you do, the

result will be a disappointment.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

13.

COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR.

Establish point

Draw

line

wherever you wish the lapel to end.

from

where

to

it

will

blend into the neck-curve, establishing

point B.

to

is

the height of collar-stand,

J
1

inches (more or less

Draw

lines 2

Draw

line 4 with point 12 of the curve-rule at B, establishing

Draw

line 5

and

with point

is

the

same

as

D.

of the curve-rule at D.
3,

letting the short

and establish E.
to

desired).

3 straight.

Place the long arm of the square on line

if

to E,

and

at right

angles to line

Draw

line 6 with point

Draw

line 7 with point 22 of the curve-rule at F.

of the curve-rule at B.

3.

arm touch

at

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

13.

THE COLLAR.
Draw

from

line 8

to

with point 12 of the curve-rule at C.

Cut out the back, put the shoulder

Draw

line 9

Line 10

is

Line

is

Draw

through G, blending into

^s inches from

9.

10.

the neck-gorge, from

collar should be fulled

Draw

on %

inch,

it

to G,

you

must be 9

therefore gii inches on lines 8 and

is

D, blending into line

find

it

1.

to be 9 inches,

inches long.

9.

line 13 at right angles to line 9.

to

to

is

of an inch.

the

same

as

Draw

line 14

from

to

Draw

line 15

from

is

Trace out the

The

parallel to line

line 12 with point 24 of the curve-rule at

and as the
to

and

and establish G.

line 8.

inches from and parallel to line

By measuring around

lines together

collar

to

H.
straight.

through
on lines

to line

8, 9,

14,

15,

1.

11,

12.

under-collar and canvas are cut out in the usual

manner and sewed

the neck-gorge, while the top collar and facing are in one piece.

into

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

13.

TOP-COLLAR AND FACING.

Take
point

the collar which you have cut out, place the reverse side up, and put

on the collar to point F on the

6 on the coat; this will bring

collar as per dotted lines,

to

coat, letting line 8

the collar to

extending the line

4 inches, and

is

C on

to

is

in

B on the

the back

line 16

Draw

line 17 with point 5 of the curve-rule at L.

Trace out the

through

line

inch

Mark around

beyond the

the

collar to L.

the same.

Draw

from

on the collar follow line

coat.

through O, to the bottom of the diagram

facing,

beginning at the bottom, running up the front and

then on the outside dotted lines to L, then on lines 17 and 16 to

7,

the bottom.

Where

the form

is flat

in front

and you wish

to give the coat a shapely appear-

ance, after drafting the front, cut the pattern from the top of dart to the arm-hole, as

shown on diagram, spread the pattern

arm-hole, as shown by the dotted lines.
This

make

will

at the

a larger dart at waist

before, therefore locate the top of dart

where cut

but

it

lines to the waist,

the top of dart points on

these will be found by the ends of dart

and 10 of the curve-rule

as shown on the diagram.

bust as you wish without affecting the

in

To add

diagram

fit,

ing the coat the

of the coat

measure would increase the

while to spring

same

fit

and draw the dart

at this centre point,

may have

as full a

the principle of which

is

2.

to the bust

destroying the

together at the

must not run higher than

thus separating the pattern and widening the dart, you

given fully

it

apart.

Place points

By

hip,

midway between

the two pieces that have been separated

lines

and

bottom, keeping

size

when on

in

size of the

garment, thereby

more darts simply rounds out the

the person.

front, leav-

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

14.

COAT SLEEVE.
To

draft a sleeve for an outside garment,

and add the desired fulness

this will give the

measure the arm-hole

in

the pattern

arm-hole measure for the sleeve.

As

the elbow and cuff must be larger than for the garment

the necessary

amount

worn under the same, add

the elbow and hand measures, and draft the sleeve as per

to

diagram 4 with the following variations:

to

is

to

is

the

B to

is

one-half the elbow measure plus

is

the remainder of the elbow measure not used from

to

The

,'o

inches (more or less

same

divisional of the

half sleeve, or in

as

if

to B.

In

,v>

inches (or as desired).

to E.

any manner desired.

E and

F,

keeping these notches together

sleeve, thereby preventing a twist in the same.

sleeves where the upper

all

upper and under sleeve may be equal, making a half and

Put notches at B and D, also at

when joining the

desired).

is

wider than the under, the upper sleeve

necessarily be longer than the under at the outside seam, and this fulness

gathered into the under just below the elbow notch.

correctly,

F
J

to
to

To

will

must be

insure this being done

proceed as follows

G
I

is

is 2

the

inches.

same

Put notches at

as

and

I,

to

H.

and keep these notches together

thereby keeping the fulness between

This diagram shows a

F and

in

joining the sleeve,

G.

bell effect at the hand, there

being twice the amount on

the back of the sleeve as upon the front.

In

drafting the sleeve, as well as

tained by using the

all

other patterns, the best results are ob-

same curve wherever two

lines

sew together.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM
This diagram

is

Draft the sleeve as

is

in

Diagram

line

Cut out the

Lay the two

line

may be made

is

in styles.

then proceed as follows

centre between

to the centre of the

E and F

diagram

and cut through the upper from

sleeve,

on

if

them

at the top,

Diagram

in

4.

at the hand.
line

pieces of the upper on a piece of paper, keeping

6 inches (more or less

Draw

straight from

the bottom, but separating

in

14,

the top of the sleeve, which

Draw

2.

intended to further illustrate the variations that

order to conform to the changes

in drafting, in

Figure

14.

1.

them together

making the distance from

to

at

desired).

joining the tops of the two pieces with point

of the curve rule

the centre.

is

centre between

Draw

to

line 3

Sweep

is 5

from

and

B.

straight through the centre of the opening.

inches.

line 4, pivoting at

D.

This gives a sleeve with 6 inches of extra fulness

plaited, gathered, or small darts

may be

at the top,

run from line 4 to line

2,

which may be

depending on the

style of sleeve wanted.

Should more height be wanted

from

to

D may
in

than

be placed at any point desired, and line 4

making the sleeve wider

may be drawn

may be drawn

to the

make

the distance

5 inches.

the arm-hole, thereby

Line
it

less

at the top of the sleeve,

to the

elbow

bottom of the

may be

carried farther

down

at the top.

point, starting the fulness at the elbow, or

sleeve, starting the fulness at the hand.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

15.

STORM COAT OR NEWMARKET

When

the back

is

divided into two pieces, the balance line should be placed

well to the back of- the arm-hole,

balance measure

is

8 inches; the

and the third balance measure

is

The

diagram.
inches,

making the balance measures

first

'.;

short, as in this

second balance measure

is 5

inches.

and wrappers, take the skirt lengths from the waist line to the
carpet, in front, on the side, and down the centre back; then subtract an equal
amount from each length, thereby making the garment an equal distance from the

For

lono- coats

carpet at

points.

all

to

is

1)

to

is

to

is

the

to

is

yl of an inch.

to

is

to

Draw

inch.

}.2

inches (more or less according to measures).

first

balance measure.

the remainder of second balance (3 inches in this case).

the third balance (9

is

line

with point

inches for these measures).

},

curve-rule at E, extending through

of the

H, as

shown on the diagram.

and E, establishing

Place the edge of the square on

Place the edcre of the square on

to

Draw

is

line

the same as
2

with point

and

L, establishing

as per dotted line.

as per dotted line.

to

W of

the curve-rule at L, extending through N, as

shown on the diagram.

Draw

line 3 straight

down from

the desired length of skirt

lishing P.

Line 4

Draw

is

parallel to

and

,'.

inches from line

line 5 at right angle to line

3.

3.

in

front, estab-

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

P

to

Draw

is

8 inches for a

from

line 6

to

medium

where

Measure down from L on

if

desired).

blend into line

will

it

(more

size

and 6 the length

lines 2

shown on the diagram.

as

of skirt

on the

side, estab-

lishing R.

L and sweep

Pivot at

from R, blending into

line 7

L and M, and draw

Place the edge of the rule on K,

Place the edge of rule on

E and

I,

J,

line

5.

dotted line

and draw dotted

8,

establishing S.

line 9, establishing T.

Lines 8 and 9 are equivalents, and by measuring from S to Q, we find there

are 8 inches of increase on the back side of the front, and there must be the same

amount

of increase on the front side of the

to

Draw

is

under arm-piece.

therefore 8 inches.

10 straight from

line

where

to

it

will

blend into line

1,

as

shown on

the diagram.

to

is

to

is

Draw
of the

line

the
1

same

as

to R.

medium

inches for a

from

to

where

size.

will

it

blend into the hip curve on the back side

under arm piece.

Measure down from F on

Sweep

Draw

line

the desired length of back, establishing

line 12, pivoting at E.

line 13

from

W,

blending into line

12.

Find the centre between F and C, and from

establishing X, as shown on the diagram.

to

Draw

is

If
2

to

is

same
from

as

to

to

this point

draw dotted

line 14,

W.

where

it

will

blend into the hip line on the front side

back piece.
17 inches

(more or

an open or vented back

is

less as desired).

wanted, measure

and square back from this point

point to Z, as shown in diagram.

inches,

this

the

line 15

of the centre

W.

i-}^

down from B

in

the centre back

inches; draw line 16 straight from

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

For

a closed back,

draw

line 16

from Z to where

it

will

blend into the hip line

at or near G.

Measure down from B the length

Draw

line

from

to (a).

The back may be made

the difference between the

This diagram

is

of skirt in the back, establishing (a).

half-fitting

first

by taking out

at the waist line one-half of

and the second balance measures.

also used for a wrapper,

by leaving

off

the lapel, and drawing

This will
4 up level with the neck, and squaring back into the neck-gorge.
The bottom
give a fulness at the neck, which is gathered into the neck band.
line

should be

made

wider,

plaited about 2 inches

and especially

in

below the waist

the centre back, where the fulness

line,

or

it

may be

may be

carried up to the back of

the neck and plaited or gathered into the neck band at that point.

DIAGRAM
IS

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

i6.

EATON AND BOLERO JACKETS.

The Eaton
as

Jacket

shown by dotted

By

is

drafted like the coat, with the regular

number

of pieces,

lines.

placing the pieces together at the waist line you form a garment with no

seams excepting the shoulder seams.

centre back must be laid on a lengthwise fold of the goods, touching the

The
fold at

neck and waist

line.

This garment may be produced with a seam under the arm, or with an under-

arm piece

By

if

so desired.

cutting the pattern from top of dart to the arm-hole, you

usual dart lines together at the waist

instead.
fit

This

is

line,

may

bring the

and have a dart from arm-hole to bust

simply another way of producing novelties without injuring the

of the garment.

We

by the dotted lines, a Bolero Jacket with

shoulder seam on top of shoulder, this being done by cutting a piece from the
Cut out )i inch or more all around the
front and adding the same to the back.
have also shown on

arm-hole, as

this diagram,

shown on the diagram.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM
YOKE FOR THE TOP OF

17.
SKIRTS, ETC.

Hip measure, 40

Waist measure, 24 inches.

below where the waist measure

is

inches,

which

is

taken

inches

taken.

One-half the hip measure, 20 inches, minus one-half the waist measure, 12
inches, equals 8 inches of swell.

This diagram

is

a simple problem of geometry, the following being the solution

Circles are to each other as their radii or diameters are to each other;
difference of the arcs of

two concentric

as the difference of their radii

is

circles

is

and the

to the arc of the smaller circle

to the radius of that

circle.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

The

and

arcs of the circles being 20

measure

as the hip

taken

is

difference of their radii

The

difference

must be

12 inches, their difference

8 inches,

inches below where the waist measure

5

is

and

taken, the

inches, hence the following:

between the waist and

as the difference of their radii, 5 inches,

is

hip, S inches,

is

to the waist, 12 inches,

to the radius of the waist, or 8

Multiplying the means together the product

is

60,

Multiply one-half the waist measure by

5,

12

::

(?)

which divided by the one

extreme (8) the quotient is 7 %, which is the radius of the waist

proposition is deduced the following rule

(which

is

circle.

From

this

and divide the product by the swell

the difference between one-half the waist and one-half the hip), the quo-

is

be the radius of the waist

tient will

circle,

or distance from which to pivot.

.EXAMPLE.
One-half the waist measure, 12 inches, multiplied by

by 8 (the swell) equals 7

tance from which to pivot.

which

inches,

is

equals 60; 60 divided

the radius of the waist circle, or dis-

DRAFT THE YOKE AS FOLLOWS:

Draw

line

straight.

to

is

the radius of the waist,

to

is

5 inches,

7 }4

inches.

always.

Sweep

line 2

from

Sweep

line 3

from C, pivoting at A.

B,

Measure around on

pivoting at A.

line 2

from

B, one-half the waist

measure, 12 inches, and

locate D.

Draw

line 4

from

This diagram

and

is

through

bottom

where the

principles used in this

of a skirt, the

to line 3

used for drafting yokes for the tops of skirts and underwear,

also for the skirt to a coat,

The

diagram

skirt

sews on,

at the waist line.

diagram are also used to draft a flounce for the

for the

same being shown elsewhere.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

SKIRT FOR COAT.

Draft the coat to the style desired,

down

to the waist line; then draft a

yoke

and 4 down from B and D, the

distance necessary to give desired length of skirt, and from this point sweep a line
This will give a closed front with equal length
for bottom of skirt, pivoting at A.
to the hip

all

and waist measures, extending

around, which

may be shaped

lines

to a cut-a-way, or

any

style of skirt desired.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

This

skirt will

and

at the waist

depending on the

fulness at the bottom,

may be produced

smoothly

fit

at the

and

hips, but will

relative size of waist

bottom by adding one inch or more

have more or

and hips;

less

less fulness

to the waist measure,

fulling this into the coat at the waist line.

EXAMPLE.
Waist

Hip

12 inches, plus

20,

Waist

minus

13,

13,

inch, equals 13 inches.

equals

will

give

top of the skirt

As

inches of swell.

multiplied by 5 equals 65.

65 divided by 7 equals 9

This

is

inch to

2-7,

full

as distance to pivot from

in

at the waist, as the coat

to B.

is

12 inches, while the

13 inches.

the waist has been increased without changing the size of the hip, the skirt

must be smaller

at the

bottom.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

SKIRT DRAFTING.
The advantage

of a

method whereby a

form, producing a perfect

fit

at the waist

skirt

and

may be

drafted for any individual

hip, giving the exact lengths

and the

proper shape at the bottom for finishing, and at the same time controlling the hang
of the skirt so as to
cessitate

to the prevailing style,

is

too well understood to ne-

any comment; the only question which may arise

being, can

those

conform

it

be done

who have mastered

in the

mind

of the reader

We

answer, yes,

this

work; and the only dissenters are those who

take the time, and' apply their minds

in

it

can and

the proper

is

being clone every day by

manner

to

will

not

thoroughly master

the problems herein contained and their underlying principles.

These diagrams, and the demonstrated principles connected with the same,
are all based on geometry, and the solution of the problems is as positive as Euclid's
elements, and if thoroughly understood, any skirt that is or will be worn can be
easily drafted.

Do
first,

not begin at the diagram which describes the skirt you

may wish

to use

but begin at the beginning, and fully master each succeeding diagram until the

whole

is

As

understood, then draft your

all skirts

first skirt.

are drafted to measures, the

measures correctly, for

if

first

important item

is

to take these

the measures are not correct the skirt cannot

fit,

accurate measurements will produce a perfect pattern, and are easily taken
following instructions are followed:

while
if

the

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

THE WAIST MEASURE.

Take

the waist measure tight around the smallest part of the waist.

THE HIP MEASURE.

Take the

hip measure very loose around the hips, five inches below where the

waist measure was taken.

THE SKIRT LENGTHS.

As
tie

the band of the skirt will adjust itself to the smallest part of the person,

a cord around the waist, drawing

the waist band will

come

in

wearing the

LENGTH
this

tight, so that

it

it

will

seek the place where

skirt.

IN FRONT.

Measure from the cord at the waist down the centre front to the carpet. While
measure is being taken, be sure that the person being measured stands erect,

looking at an object on a level with the eyes, for should she look down, the measure will be too short.

LENGTHS ON THE
Take
of the hip,

a measure on each side, from the cord at the waist, over the fullest part

down

to the carpet.

LENGTH
Measure down the

From

SIDES.

centre,

IN

THE BACK.

back from the cord

at the waist, to the carpet.

the above measures, taken to the carpet,

Subtract % inch from the length in front ;

and draft a skirt to these corrected measures, and
floor all around when walking.

make

subtract
it

the following changes:

inch from the side lengths,

will

hang M inch from the

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

EXAMPLE.
Length

in front, to carpet,

Length on the

Length
If

in

40

',

inches, less

equals 40, corrected length

side, to carpet, 40-)^ inches, less

equals 40J&, corrected length.

back, to carpet, 41 inches, equals 41, corrected length.

a short skirt

wanted, subtract an equal amount from the corrected meas-

is

ures, in the front,-on the sides,

and

in

the back.

EXAMPLE.
Length

in front, corrected,

Length on the

Length

The

in

side, corrected,

40,'. inches, less

$7 inches, for short

equals $7

'2

skirt.

inches, for short skirt.

following measures will be used for drafting skirts, unless otherwise stated.

and as a pattern
amount, 22 inches.

inches,

one-half of this

Waist measure 26
1

less 3 equals

back, corrected, 41 inches, less 3 equals 38 inches, for short skirt.

Hip measure, 44

we use

40 inches,

inches,

one-half of

is

drafted for one-half of the skirt,

which, to draft one-half the

skirt,

is

3 inches.

Subtracting the waist measure, 13 inches, from the hip measure, 22 inches,
gives 9 inches as the increase from the waist to the hip, which

Complete measures from which

Waist measure,

13

inches.

Swell measure,

inches.

Front length,

40

inches.

Side length,

40

Back

41

length,

',

inches.
inches.

to draft the skirt

is

called the swell.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

DIAGRAM
S
Draw

line

K RT
I

18.

the length of skirt in front (40 inches) plus one-half the waist

measure (13 inches), which equals 53 inches.

to

is

one-half the waist measure (13 inches).

to

is

I)

to

is

inches always.

the length of skirt in front (40 inches).

Sweep

line 2

from B, pivoting

at A.

Sweep

line 3

from C, pivoting

at A.

to

is

3 inches, or one-half the

to

is

the

to

is

one

at the

to

line

Sweep

is

as

to

in front

from D, pivoting
13

front gore

is

to

be wider

and G.

the length of skirt

There were

amount the

at the top.

4 through

line 5

(3 inches).

inch, or one-eighth of the

bottom than

Draw

same

width of the front gore at the top.

(40 inches).

at A.

inches in one-half the waist measure, but having used three

inches in the front gore (B to E), there remain 10 inches for the side gores.

There were 9 inches

of swell, but having used

G), there remain 8 inches for the side gores.

to

Sweep

is

one-half the waist measure (13 inches).

line 6

from E, pivoting at

I.

inch

in

the front gore (F to

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

Sweep

line 7

to J

is

to

at

I.

2,% inches, or the width of the

same

the

is

to

from G, pivoting

is

as

to J (3

}.,

first

inches).

amount the

inches, or one-eighth of the

side gore at the top.

first

side gore

is

to be

wider at the bottom than at the top.

Draw
J to

Sweep
height as
the two

through

line 8

I,

and

L.

the length of skirt on the side (40/2 inches).

is

line 9

from H, pivoting at or near

but moving

points,

I,

keeping the pivot point the same

to the front or back so that the arc (line 9) will touch

it

and M.

After drafting the front gore, there remained of the zvaist measure 10 inches,

but

inches of this

amount having been used

in

the

first

side gore

(E

to J), there

remain 6^4 inches for the other side gores.

After drafting the front gore, there remained of the swell 8 inches, but 3 inches
amount having been used in the first side gore (K to L), there remain 5

of this

inches for the other side gores.

to

is

one-half the waist measure (13 inches).

Sweep

line 10, pivoting at N.

Sweep

line ii, pivoting at N.

is

to

is

the same as

P to

is

3 inches.

J to

.'.,

inches.

l)raw line 12 through

to

Sweep

is

to O.

and Q.

the length of skirt

line 13

from

(40^

to R, pivoting at or near N.

After drafting the front and the

measure 6 jo' inches, but

inches).

first

inches of this

side gores, there remained of the waist

amount having been used

side gore (J to O), there remain 3 inches for the third side gore.

in

the second

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

To make

an under, or inverted box

Cut the paper on

lay on line

will

paper on

plait,

proceed as follows:

then fold the back gore

line 21,

the centre so that line 21

in

back gore under the side gore by creasing the

form an under plait.

16; then fold the

This

line 16.

will

While the back gore

folded under the side gore, cut the three thicknesses of

paper on line 14 at the top, and on line 17 at the bottom, giving the proper shape
to the

back

at the top

is

where

it

sews into the band, and for finishing

at the

bottom.

By drawing a line through points E and F down to the bottom of the skirt
shown by dotted line on diagram), it will be parallel to line 1, because B to E
the same as C to F, and the piece thus designated will be the same width at the top

(as
is

and bottom; therefore the front gore having increased 1 inch (F to G) at the hip
line, 5 inches below the waist line, must increase at the bottom, down 40 inches
below the waist

line, 8

width of the gore

the bottom, from

From
If

line,

times one inch, or 8 inches

at the top, 3 inches, gives

and

the swell or increase on each gore, at the hip

be multiplied by

below the waist

The

line,

8,

and

to the

line, 5

is

drawn

inches below the waist

the product will be the increase at the bottom 40 inches

if there be added to this amount the width of the
gore at

sum must equal

first

added

to N.

demonstrated proposition the following conclusion

this

the top, the

this increase

inches as the width of the gore at

the width of the gore at the bottom.

side gore increases at the hip

(K

to

L)

3 inches,

it

will therefore in-

crease at the bottom 8 times 3 inches, or 24 inches; and this added to the width at
the top (E to J), 1% inches, gives 27 }i inches as the width of this gore at the

bottom (N to M).

The second
at the

bottom 8 times

im

(J to O),

(M

O)

and

3 inches,

will increase

24 inches, which added to the width at the top

inches as the width of this gore at the bottom

3 inches, or

inches, gives

27^

to R).

The
at the

(O

side gore increases at the hip (P to

to

third side gore increases at the hip

bottom 8 times 2
T) 3 inches, gives

The back gore

inches, or 16 inches,

(U

V) 2
which added
to

inches,

and

will increase

to the width of the top

19 inches as the width of this gore at the bottom

increases

down

5 inches,

inch,

and

the bottom 8 inches, which added to the width at the top

14 inches as the width of the back gore at the bottom.

(R

to

).

will therefore increase at

(T

to

X)

6 inches, gives

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

The

front gore

is

First

side gore

is

27

>g

inches wide at the bottom.

Second side gore

is

27

k2

inches wide at the bottom.

Third side gore

is

19

inches wide at the bottom.

14

inches wide at the bottom.

Back gore

is

inches wide at the bottom.

Total, Q9

From
If

inches wide at the bottom for one-half of the skirt.

these principles and illustrations

the swell be multiplied by

8,

and

we

derive the following conclusions:

to this product the waist

width of the back gore at the bottom be added, the sum

skirt at the

equal the width of the

bottom.

In the above measures the swell

inches, to

will

measure and the

which

is

is

9 inches, which, multiplied by 8 equals 72

added the waist measure

13,

and the back gore at the bottom 14

inches, giving 99 inches as the width of the skirt at the bottom, being the

same

as in diagram.

EXAMPLE
Hip measure, 40

by

inches, divided

Waist measure, 26

2,

by

inches, divided

2.

equals 20 inches.
2,

equals 13 inches.

Hip, 20 inches, minus the waist, 13 inches, equals

Swell,

inches, multiplied

by

8,

inches of swell.

equals 56 inches, plus the waist, 13 inches,

plus the back gore, 14 inches, equals 83 inches as the size of half the skirt around

the bottom.

hip

is

In these measures the waist

smaller,

making the

is

the

skirt smaller at the

that to reduce the hip will reduce the bottom,

the bottom of the

same

size as in

example

will

skirt.

Hip measure, 44

inches, divided

Waist measure, 28

by

inches, divided

2,

by

3.

equals 22 inches.
2,

but the

bottom, and establishing the fact

and to increase the hip

EXAMPLE

1,

equals 14 inches.

Hip, 22 inches, minus the waist, 14 inches, equals 8 inches of swell.

increase

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Swell, 8 inches, multiplied

by

equals 64 inches, plus the waist 14 inches,

8,

plus the back gore 14 inches, equals 92 inches as the size of the skirt at the bottom.

In these measures the hip

is

while the bottom of the skirt

same

the
is

size as in

No.

1,

but the waist

is

larger,

smaller; thus establishing the fact that to increase

the waist will reduce the bottom, and to reduce the zvaist will increase the bottom.

This diagram teaches how to

get the proper lengths, and

tom without putting

The
tom,

still

how

fit

how

at the waist

This can be easily learned

is

how

how

to

large a skirt will be at the bot-

in darts.

retaining the

it

a skirt around the waist and hips

to figure out

next diagram will teach

given, but

fit

useless to try to

if

to

and

make

skirt

any desired

size at the bot-

hip.

one has

go farther

understood, for they are the foundation of

a'

fully

mastered the problems thus

far

until the principles herein set forth are

all

skirt-drafting.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

19.

SKIRT.
The same measures
show the reduction

at the bottom.

Hip measure, 44

inches, divided

Waist measure, 26

The

swell

are used for this diagram as for diagram 18, in order to

by

inches, divided

2,

by

equals 22 inches.
2,

equals 13 inches.

(one-half the hip measure, minus one-half waist measure) equals

9 inches.

We

have 13 inches of waist measure and 9 inches of swell to be divided into

a front and three side gores.

In diagram 18 they were divided as follows

Front gore, waist

3 inches, swell

First side gore, waist 3

Second

side gore, waist 3

Third side gore, waist

Draw

line

of the waist

'

measure (8; 3

to

to

is 5

to

is

is

inch.

inches, swell 3 inches.

inches, swell 3 inches.

3 inches, swell 2 inches.

straight, the length

of the skirt 1 'n front (40 inches), plus one-third

inches), which equals 487^ inches.

one-third of the waist measure (8j4 inches).

inches always.

the length of skirt in front (40 inches).

Sweep

line 2

from B, pivoting at A.

Sweep

line 3

from C, pivoting at A.

to

is

the width of the front gore at the top, 3 inches.

to

is

the same as B to E.

to

is

the

amount

of swell in the front eore,

inch.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

E

to

is

and

inch,

>.,

manner:

located in the following

is

inch from the corner of the square, on the short arm at E,

arm touch at G, and draw a line from E to the corner of the square
locating H, then draw line 4 with the long arm of the square from the corner at H
down through G as shown in diagram. This makes the line from E to H at right

Place a point

}.,

letting the long

angle to line

to

4,

is

Sweep

which

very essential.

is

the length of skirt in front (40 inches).

line 5

from D, pivoting

at A.

Place the corner of the square at H, with the long arm on line
line

from

The

to

making the distance from

J,

and the distance from

from

to

running from

lines

to

E must

to

and

to

to

the

must be

be the same as

would not be the same as

to J,

same

to

as

and draw a

4,

to E.

at right angles to line 4,

J.

otherwise the distance

and the darts would not sew together

properly, and the curve of the waist line would be changed, thereby destroying the

hang

of the skirt.

Place the edge of the square on

Draw

the curved line from

and

to

and draw

J,

with point

line 6

up from

J.

of the curve rule at

on

on

the diagram.

Draw

the curved line from

to

with point

7 of

the curve-rule at

the diagram.

to

is

one-third of the waist measure

Sweep

line 7

from

Sweep

line 8

from G, pivoting at K.

to

is

the width of

to

is

the

same

to

is

the

amount

to

is

inch,

Place a point
the long

from the corner

in

arm touch

line

first

side gore at the top, 2>H inches.

as J to L.

and

of swell in the first side gore, 3 inches.

is

located as follows

inch from the corner of the square on the short

at

N, and locate

of the square at

diagram; then draw a

making the

inches).

pivoting at K.

J,

(8%

from

line

to

arm

at the corner of the square.

with the long arm,

9.

Draw

down through N

with the short arm of the square from

at right angle to line

at L, letting

as

line 9

shown

to L, thereby

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

O

to

Sweep

is

the length of the skirt on the side (40

from

line 10

inches).

>

to P, pivoting at or near K.

Place the corner of the square at O, with the long arm on line
line

from

This

will insure the distance

making the distance from

to O,

from

Place the edge of the square on

to

to

same

the

L being

and O, and draw

Draw

the curved line from

to

with point

W of

Draw

the curved line from

to

with point

to

is

same

the

as

line

as

9,

and draw a

to L.

to 0.

up from Q.

the curve-rule at L.

of the curve-rule at O.

one-half the ivaist measure (13 inches).

Sweep

line 12

from O, pivoting at R.

Sweep

line 13

from N, pivoting

to

is

to

is

the

same

to

is

the

amount

at R.

the width of the second side gore at the top, 3

as

inches.

to S.

of swell in the second side gore, 3 inches.

Place a point 3^ of an inch from the corner of the square, on the short

long arm touch at U, and locate

at S, letting the

then draw a

of the square at

to

Sweep

from S

line

to

line 15

from P

to

at the corner of the square;

with the short arm, and draw line 14 from the corner

arm down through U.

with the long

the length of skirt

is

arm

W,

(40^

inches).

pivoting at or near R.

Place the corner of the square at V, with the long arm on line
line

from

to

the lines from

X, locating

the

to

to

S and

same distance from

and X.and draw

Draw

the curved line from S to U, with point

Draw

the curved line from

to

Sweep

is

as

is

line 16 straight

up from X.

W of the curve-rule at

to U, with point 2 of the curve-rule at

three-fourths of the waist measure, iqy& inches.

line

14, and draw a

from V, and making

at right angles todine 14.

Place the edge of the square on

from X, pivoting at Y.

S.

X.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Sweep

line 18

to

to (a)

Z to

Sweep

Draw

is

as

amount

the

to Z.

of swell in the third side gore, 2 inches.

from Z down through

(b).

the length of skirt in the back (41 inches).

is

line 20

from

to (c), pivoting at or near Y.

line 21 at right angles to line 19.

Z to (d)

Draw

same

the

is

line 19 straight

(c)

at Y.

the width of the third side gore, 3 inches.

is

(a) to (b)

Draw

from U, pivoting

the width of the back gore at the top, 6 inches.

is

line 22 at right angles to line 21.

(d) to (e)
(e) to (f)

inches.

is 5

is

inch, or one-eighth of the

amount

that the back gore should be

wider at the bottom than at the top.

Draw

line 23

through (d) and

(f).

Fold the back gore to form an under or inverted

diagram

In this

diagram the distance across the hip

and the distance across each gore

at the hip

distance across the waist in this diagram

each

The

plait, as

described

in

18.

individual

gore at the waist

reason for this variation

is

is

is

the

is

diagram

18

it

the

greater than

it

same width

as

is

in

it

diagram
is

in

18,

while

diagram

18.

that darts have been put in between each of the

gores at the waist, thereby increasing the waist

In

same as it is in diagram 18,

the same as in diagram 18; but the
is

in

the diagram from

to Z.

has been proven that to increase the waist without changing

the hip will decrease the bottom of a skirt, and as putting in darts increases the

diagram

at the waist,

but does not change the hip, darts must therefore reduce the

size of the skirt at the bottom.

It

is

now necessary

the skirt, so that a skirt

the

to determine

may be

same time produce a given

how much

a dart will reduce the bottom of

drafted to any given size of waist and hip, and at

size of skirt at the

bottom.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

In diagram lS line 4
this

diagram, giving

drawn from

diagram

in this

and giving

diagram

to J as in

G, as per dotted line

to

line

in
is

as the width of

18.

the dotted line and line 4 run through G, the front gore has not been

As both

reduced at the

but

hip,

the distance from

5

width of front gore, but

through G, thereby locating

E and

drawn through points

to # as the

the front gore instead of

every

is

inches below

inches below the hip

to

H, namely,

this point,

and

inch,

has been reduced the amount of

it

skirt

bottom

},

inch

inches.

the skirt

of

35 inches below

is

times the width of the dart, or 3

darts reduce the

the conclusion that

be reduced

will therefore

and as the bottom of the

the hip, the bottom will be reduced

Hence

'.,

times

their width.

From
swell at

gore

at

If the
demonstrated proposition the following rule is deduced.
the hip on a gore be multiplied by 8, and to this be added the width of the
the top, the sum will be the width that the gore would be at the bottom

this

without darts

and

if

the width of the dart be multiplied by

7,

and

this

product

subtracted from the amount, the remainder will be the width of the gore at the

bottom with the dart inserted, as

By the above
There is
inch of
1

in this

diagram.

diagram 19 figures out as follows.

the hip line (F to G), which multiplied

rule the size of each gore in

swell in the front gore at

by 8 gives 8 inches of increase

gore at the top (B to E),

at the

3 inches,

bottom, and to this

giving

inch, the

is

a dart in this gore at the top of

gore has been reduced at the bottom

subtracting this

amount from the

front gore at the bottom, from

In the

first

11

to

inches gives

7
J

}2

inches as the width of the

(J to L),

3^

j2

inch

(H

to J),

inches, gives

27^

which multi-

adding to

this

inches as the

a dart on the front side

is

and on the back side of

to N),

bottom

of increase at the

width of the gore at the bottom without darts; but there

'

}2

3,^ inches;

inch, or

I.

amount

the width of the gore at the top

of this gore of

times

side gore there are 3 inches of swell (from

plied by 8 gives 24 inches as the

of the

inches as the width of the gore at the

bottom without dart inserted; but as there

added the width

is

inch

(L

to O),

making

\yz inches of darts on this gore, which multiplied by 7 gives \o% inches as the
amount of reduction on the bottom of this gore. Subtracting this amount from
first

side gore at the

to U),

which multiplied

the 27;^ inches there remain 17 inches as the width of the

bottom, from

to P.

In the second side gore there are 3 inches of swell

(T

by 8 gives 24 inches of increase at the bottom, and adding to

gore at the top (O to S),

3 )i inches, gives

27^

this the

width of the

inches as the width of the gore at

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

the bottom without darts; but as there

and on the back side

of

of an inch, there are

multiplying this by

7 gives
subtracting this from the 27

inches gives

14

8 gives

inch

(O

to O).

inches of darts on this gore;

made by

the darts, and

inches as the width of the second

inches of swell, from (a) to (b), which multi-

16 inches of increase at the bottom; adding to this the width of

(X

the gore at the top, 3 inches

to Z), gives 19 inches as the width of the gore at

the bottom without darts; but there

this

W.

to

In the third side gore there are

by

i3/

inches as the reduction

12M

side gore at the bottom, from

plied

a dart on the front side of

is

gore (V to X), and

is

3.^

mcn

f an

on the front side of

c ' art

amount

multiplied by 7 gives 5^ inches as the

Subtracting this from the 19 inches leaves

this

reduction at the bottom.

13^

of

inches

as the width of the third side gore at the bottom, from YV to (c).

The back gore

has

inch of swell (e to

f),

which multiplied by 8 equals 8

inches of increase at the bottom, and adding to this the width of the gore at the
top, 6 inches (Z to d), gives 14 inches as the width of the

down 40

inches from the waist

The

front gore

The

first

side gore

The second
The

7^

is

is

side gore

third side gore

The back gore

13^

'.,

inches (one-half of the skirt

of

back gore; but diagram

is

6j %
1

inch of dart; from

inches of dart,

is

inches.

inches.

inches.

when

finished).
this

in

diagram,

99 inches around the bottom

'._.

inches smaller at the

S.

to

making

no darts; but

there are

in

diagram

19,

from

to

inches of dart, and from S to

a total of 4

darts reduce the bottom of a skirt

reduce the bottom 31

inches at the bottom, or 31

In diagram 18 there are

down 40

bottom down 40

while this diagram

}i

down 40

inches wide at the bottom

and the same width

inches.

diagram 18 the same hip and waist measure are used as

bottom than diagram

bottom,

inches.

bottom down 40

at the

14 inches wide at the

is

down 40

13.^ inches wide at the bottom

Total width at bottom 67

In

wide

17 inches

is

at the

line.

inches wide at the bottom

is

back gore

}.2

inches of darts in diagram

J,

there

is

there are

19;

and as

times their width, these darts will necessarily

inches.

herefore to draft a skirt to a desired size at the bottom, with a given size at

the hip and waist.

First,

find

out

how wide

the skirt would be at the bottom

without darts; then subtract from this amount the desired size at the bottom, and

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

the remainder will be the

amount

of surplus to be taken out

by the

darts,

and as

darts reduce the bottom 7 times their width, in order to reduce the bottom a certain

amount the

darts

must be one-seventh

inserted

of

that amount.

Hence

the

following rule

Multiply the swell by

and

8,

add the waist and the width of the

equal the size of the skirt at the bottom

to this product

sum will
amount subtract

back gore at the bottom; the

From

witJwut darts.

this

the desired size at the bottom, and

the remainder will be the surplus to be taken out by the darts.

Divide this surplus by

and the quotient

7,

will

EXAMPLE
Hip measure 44

Waist measure 26

Hip

by

inches, divided

inches, divided

2,

by

be the amount for darts.

1.

equals 22 inches.
2,

equals 13 inches.

22 inches, minus 13 inches (waist measure), equals 9 inches of swell.

Swell 9 inches, multiplied by

equals 72 inches, plus 13 (the waist), plus 14

8,

(the back gore), equals 99 inches, the size of the skirt without darts.

99 inches minus 6~
Surplus 31

<4

}i

inches (the desired size) equals 31

divided by

equals 4

inches as the

EXAMPLE
Hip measure

by

41 divided

Waist measure 24 divided by

Hip measure 20
Swell 8

96 inches.

,'o

minus

equals 20
2

'.,

\i

amount

inches surplus.
for darts.

2.

inches.

equals 12 inches.

12 equals 8

y
2

swell.

multiplied by 8 equals 68 plus 12 (waist), plus 16 (back gore), equals

(Size without darts.)

96 minus 72 (desired size) equals 24 inches of surplus.

Surplus 24 divided by

equals 33-7 inches, the amount for darts.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

EXAMPLE
Desired size of skirt around the bottom,

Waist 22 divided by
20 minus

yards, with a 12 inch back gore.

}.;

Hip measure 40

One-half of skirt 63 inches.

Hip 40 divided by

3.

inches.

Waist measure 22

inches.

equals 20.
2

equals

1.

equals 9 swell.

Swell 9 multiplied by 8 equals 72 plus

plus

ii,

12,

equals 95 inches, width of

without darts.

skirt

95 minus 63 equals 32 (surplus), divided by

equals 44-7 inches for darts.

Darts are placed between the front gore and the

each of the side gores

Thus

therefore there will be as

many

first

side gore,

darts as there are side gores.

there are two side gores, there will be two darts, and

if

gores, there will be three darts

and between

if

there are three side

while a skirt that has four side gores will have

four darts.
In dividing the

amount

for darts

into the several darts, care

and judgment

should be used, the following being the rule to govern the same
the form

If

but

if

the form

is

perfectly round, the

in

is flat

amount

front with large hips

for darts should be divided equally,

on the

side,

and medium

full in

the

back, the front dart should be small, the second dart large, and the third dart

medium

On
flat in

in size.

the form that

the back,

make

is

the

very
first

in the front, medium full on the side, and quite

and second darts about the same size, with a small

full

dart for the back or third dart.

may be

many gores as the style and taste require by

simply dividing the waist measure into as many parts as it is desired to have gores,
and at the same time these gores may be proportioned to suit the taste; that is to
say, they may be of equal width, or some may be wider than others.
skirt

drafted with as

Diagram 19 illustrates a 9 gored skirt, there being one front gore, 6 side
gores, and 2 back gores; but it may be cut as a 7 gored skirt by leaving the third
side gore and the back gore together.
It may also be used for a circular, or one
piece skirt, by leaving the pattern together as shown in the diagram, and not
cutting through on the lines that separate the gores.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

This

By
that this
In

will leave the darts

this

it

will

running from the waist to the hip.

be seen that any two or more gores

diagram may be used for a

other words, there

skirt, as far as

is

i,

3,

5,

7,

may be

cut together and

or 9 piece skirt.

no difference between a one piece and a 9 gored

drafting the pattern

is

concerned.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

THE HANG OF THE

So
but the

fit is

manner

to

not

all

there

styles

may

may

fit,

but not hang

in

the proper

a skirt hanging

call for

at

another time they

another period they

still

will

will

and

in front

full

be plain

at the

in front

be plain both

the

in

sides.

In fact, the style of a skirt

trolled

has been taken into consideration,

style.

forming ripples at the bottom;

and on the

fit

to a skirt, for a skirt

is

with ripples on the side; and at

front

only the

skirts,

conform to the prevailing

At one time the

sides,

on

far in this treatise

SKIRT.

is

mostly

by the distance from the waist

in the

hang

of the same,

and

this

con-

is

line to the pivot point, or in other words,

by

the length of the radius of the waist circle.

In diagram

on the

19,

and the distance from

the distance from

to

would be lower than

making

On

it fit

more

it

to

K
is

is

one-third of the waist measure

closely at the knees

and

Each

is

pivoted at K,

(8^

inches);

had

feet.

the contrary, had the distance from line

the front gore forward,

is

side gore, the waist line (line 7)

been one-half the waist measure (13 inches) point L

in the diagram, which would draw the front gore back,

of the waist measure, point

there

first

L would have been

making

it

side gore controls the

full in

hang

7 to

the pivot point been one-fourth

raised,

and

this

would have forced

the centre front at the bottom.

of the gore immediately in front of

it,

and as

an individual pivoting point for each side gore, the hang of the skirt at any

given point

Hence

may be

controlled by the distance from which the side gore

is

pivoted.

the following rule:

To draw

the skirt back and

make

it

close at the feet

and knees, pivot from a

greater portion of the waist measure.

To

throw the

skirt to the front

and produce

ripples at the bottom, pivot

from

a lesser portion of the waist measure.

There are three

distinct forms,

on which the waist and hip measures may be

the same, namely, the regular form on which the waist line runs level, or straight

around the person, the form with the waist

back, and the form with the waist line high

in

line

high

in

the front and low in the

the back and low in the front.

The

distance from which to pivot for each one of these forms must be varied, otherwise

the skirts will not hang the

same on the

different forms.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

If

on the regular form, on which the waist

pivoted as in diagram

from

19,

having the waist line high

pivot should be

]/
2

^3,

in front

^, and

line

runs straight around, the skirt

is

%, }4, and ^ of the waist measure, on the form

and low in the back, the distance from which to

the

full

waist measure, while on the form with the

waist line high in the back and low in front, the distance from which to

pivot

should be %, %, }< and }4 of the waist measure.

These variations

of the waist line

lengths, in the following

manner

On

may

around the front length, taken to the carpet,

the back length, and

waist line

is

high

in

if

the front length

front

and low

in

generally be determined by the skirt

the form with the waist line running straight

is

will ordinarily

be one inch shorter than

longer than the back

the back, but

if

it is

evident that the

the front length

is

very short,

compared with the back length, the waist line must be high in the back and low
in

the front.

These instructions regarding variations depend on the accuracy of the measurements, and unless the directions for taking measures have been followed, they are
of

no consequence.

For a bicycle
the sides, and full

skirt

pivot point for the

first

in

it

is

necessary that

it

hang

full in

the centre front, plain on

the back; therefore the distance from the waist line to the
side gore should be less,

be more than for a regular

skirt.

and

for the last side

gore should

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

DIAGRAM
Having already demonstrated

that

20.

the zuaist measure together with the

if

proper width of darts be carried out on the waist

bottom

carried out on the hip line, the

must be the desired width.

line)

of the skirt

Therefore,

if

line,

and the hip measure be

(down 40 inches from the waist

the ivaist measure together with the

same darts be carried out on the waist line, and the proper amount be carried out
in width of gores at the bottom (down 40 inches from the waist line), the result
must give the correct

size of hip

on the hip

line.

ILLUSTRATION.
If

bottom

to

method

diagram

in

19,

of the skirt,
it

it

a straight line be drawn from

will locate

Therefore

I.

must locate G, and from

this

if

through

G down

a straight line be

demonstrated

fact

we adopt

to the

drawn from

the following

of drafting skirts in order to save time:

Hip measure 43 divided by

Waist measure 24 divided by

Hip

21

Swell

g%

minus

equals 21 %.
2

equals

12.

12 (the waist) equals g

swell.

multiplied by 8 equals 76 plus 12 (waist), plus 19 (the back gore),

equals 107, width without dart.

107 minus 72 (desired size) equals 35 inches of surplus.

Surplus 35 divided by

As

equals

there are three darts

in

inches for darts.

amount

a 9 gored skirt, divide the

for darts as

follows
First dart

J
1

inches,

5 s
,

of an

inch on the front gore,

and

5/8

on the

first

side gore.

Second dart

inches,

inch on the

first

side gore,

and

inch on the second

side gore.

Third dart ify inches, 7$ on the second side gore, and

gore.

7/g

on the third side

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

There are
as desired

12

may be

inches of waist measure, which

divided as follows, or

Front gore

inches, first side gore 3*4 inches, second side gore 334 inches,

third side gore 2^2 inches.

this

There are 72 inches for the bottom of the

for the back gore, there remain 5$ inches

may be

and subtracting 19 inches from

the front and side gores, which

skirt,

for

divided as follows or to suit the taste:

Front gore at the bottom

side gore at the

Third side gore

inches.

7 }

bottom 10

at the

inches.

inches.

A FULL PLAN FOR THE SKIRT:

IS

at top 3 inches, at bottom 7 y%

First side gore at top

Second

inches.

bottom 18

THE FOLLOWING
Front gore

}.2

bottom

First side gore at the

Second

"j

3^

inches, dart 5/% of an inch.

inches, at bottom

side gore at top 3

'

.',

inches, at bottom

inches, dart 5

18 inches, dart

and
1

inch.

inch and

inch.

Third side gore

Back gore

at top 2

,<

inches, at bottom 10 inches, dart Js of an inch.

at top 5 inches, at bottom 19 inches.

Draft the skirt as follows

l/%

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Draw

line

the length of skirt in front, 40 inches plus

to

to

to

is

Sweep

one-third of the waist measure, 8 inches.

is

inches always.

40 inches.

lines

2,

and

4,

pivoting at A.

to

is

the width of the front gore at the top, 3 inches.

to

is

the

to

is

the width of the front gore at the bottom,

Draw

measure

of the waist

'3

which equals 48 inches.

(8 inches),

amount

line 5 straight

on the front gore,

of dart

from F to

in

of an inch.

S/%

'.,

inches.

the following manner:

Place the edge of the long rule against the long arm of the square, with a point
$/%

from the corner on the short arm, touching

of an inch

the rule next to the square

line 5

is

on

locate

at E, while the

edge of

and draw

at the corner of the square,

from F down through G, with the long arm of the square and the edge of

the rule; then draw the line from

will

make

line

from

to

with the short arm of the square, which

this line at right angle to line 5.

Place the corner of the square at F, with the long arm on line

H, making the distance from

to

Place the edge of the square on

Draw

the curved dart line from

to

Draw

the curved dart line from

to

to J

is

Sweep
to

to

to

Draw

I,

to

the same as

and draw

with point

5,

and draw the

to E.

up from H.

line 6

of the curve-rule at E.

with point 7 of the curve-rule at H.

one-third of the waist measure, 8 inches.

lines

and

is

is

is

7,

and

9,

pivoting at

the width of the

the

amount

side gore at the top, 3

of dart for the

the width of the

line 10 straight

first

J.

from

first

to

back side of the

'

inches.

first

side gore,

side gore at the bottom, 17

M, as follows:

'

;2

inches.

inch.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

arm

Place the long rule against the long

from the corner, on the short arm

square

through

on

is

locate

of the square, with a point

inch

K, while the edge of the rule next to the

at

at the corner of the square,

and draw

line 10

from L down

with the long arm of the square and the rule; then draw the line from

to L, with the short

arm

of the square, thereby

making the

line

from

to

at

right angle to line 10.

Place the corner of the square at

line

from

to N,

with the long arm on line

making the distance from L

to

same

the

as

10,

and draw the

to K.

Draw

the curved dart line from

to

with point

of the curve-rule at K.

Draw

the curved dart line from

to

with point

of the curve-rule at N.

Place the edge of the square on

and N, and draw

to

Sweep

is

line

up from N.

one-half of the waist measure, 12 inches.

lines 12, 13

and

pivoting at

14,

P.

to

is

the width of the second side gore at the top,

to

is

one-half of the third dart, 7 of an inch.

to

is

the width of the second side gore at the bottom, 18 inches.

Draw

line 16 straight

from

to

in

3^

inches.

manner:

the following

Place the long rule against the long arm of the square, with a point

7/%

of an

inch from the corner on the short arm, touching at O, while the edge of the rule

next to the square

is

on S

locate

from R down through S with

then draw the line from
line

from

line

from

to

to

at the

the long

to T,

of the square together with the rule

at right angle to line 16.

R with the long arm on line 16,

R to T the same as R to

making the distance from

Draw

the curved dart line from

Draw

the curved dart line from

to

Place the edge of the square on

and U, and draw

to

Sweep

to
18

is

is

to

with point
with point

and

20,

and draw the

O.

of the curve-rule at Q.

of the curve-rule at T.

line

up from T.

three-fourths of the waist measure, 18 inches.

lines 18, 19

\Y

with the short arm of the square, thus making the

Place the corner of the square at

corner of the square, and draw line 16

arm

pivoting at Y.

the width of the third side gore at the top,

.'

inches.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

S

to

is

the width of the third side gore at the bottom, 10 inches.

Draw

line 2

Draw

line 22 at right

\Y to

to

Draw
The

straight from

X.

to

angle to line

2r.

the width of the back gore at the top,

is

is

inches.

the width of the back gore at the bottom, 19 inches.

through points

line 24 straight

skirt as

now

drafted

and

Z.

40 inches long at

is

all

points; proceed to carry out

the proper length by shortening or lengthening as the measures

may

require, accord-

ing to the following instructions:

Measure down

line

Measure down

line 5

Sweep

from B, the length of

skirt in front, establishing (a).

from F, the length of

skirt in front, establishing (b).

a line from (a) to (b), pivoting at A.

Measure down from L on

Sweep

a line from (b) to

Measure down from

The

(c),

on

pivoting at or near

back and the side length

and the back length

Sweep

is

on the

side, locating (c).

J.

line 16 the desired length of skirt, locating (d).

length of skirt on line 16 should be

skirt in the

in this

midway between

the length of the

diagram the side length

is

41

42 inches, therefore the length online 16 should be 4

}.;

inches,

^ inches.

a line from (c) to (d), pivoting at or near P.

Measure down from

Sweep

W on

line 2

the length of skirt in the back, establishing (e).

a line from (d) to (e), pivoting at or near V.

Cut the paper on

in

line 10 the length of skirt

line

24 and fold to line

1,

forming the under

plait as described

previous diagram.
In figuring out the skirt problem

inches in length

When

this

the styles

is

because

call for

for a skirt 40 inches long,

it is

it is

always figured on the basis of a skirt 40

an intermediate length.

a skirt to be four yards around the bottom, that

and a person wearing a longer

skirt

should have one

skirt.

These

figured on basis of

40-inch

proportionately wider, while a shorter person should have a narrower

diagrams

will

skirt length.

give this increase and decrease

when

means

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

After considerable practice with this method of drafting a
the pattern

sections; that

in

is

to say, a

skirt,

one may draft

gore at a time, permitting the use of

narrower paper by proceeding as follows:

Draft the front gore and cut

it

out.

Lay

this

gore with the reverse side up on

another sheet of paper, and mark along the edge of the gore from

thence down on

This

will give the

be H,
the

line

first

to the

bottom

front side of the

of the gore,

first

side gore,

I,

and

and

(b).

and the points designated

will

making a point

at E,

to
I

Having the front side of

and (b) on the front side of the first side gore.
side gore, proceed to draft the remainder of the gore as in diagram 20.

Draft each gore

in

the

same manner, using the back

the front side of the gore following

it.

side of each gore to shape

'

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

21.

ELEVEN GORED SKIRT WITH FLARE AT THE BOTTOM.

Hip measure 42 divided by

equals 21.

Waist measure 25 divided by

Hip

21

Swell 8

minus
3a

equals 8

equals 12%.

swell.

}2

multiplied by 8 equals 68.

68 plus \2}i (waist) plus 14 (back gore) equals 94

without darts).
94)2 minus 63 (desired width) equals 31

Surplus 31

As

\i

divided by

there are four darts

equals 4

in

inches of surplus.

;.;

inches for darts.

'

inches (width at bottom

>2

an eleven-gored

divide the

skirt,

amount

for darts

as follows
First dart

second dart

inch,

inch, third dart

inches, fourth dart

}.,

inch.

There are 2 ):2 inches of waist measure to be divided into a front and four
side gores, making 5 gores; which maybe divided equally, giving 2 2 inches for
each gore, or in any manner desired.
1

}.

There are 63 inches

bottom

for the

the back gore, there are 49 inches for

as follows

Front gore 6 inches,

first

and as 14 of this amount is in

the front and side gores, which maybe divided
of the skirt,

side gore 12 inches, second side gore 12 inches,

third side gore 12 inches, fourth side gore 7 inches.

The

following

Front gore

the condensed plan for the skirt

is

at the

top

M inches;

First side gore at the top 2

Second

<

side gore at the top 2

Third side gore at the top

Fourth side gore

}.;

at

bottom 6 inches; dart %

inch.

inches; at bottom 12 inches; dart

inches
inches

at

at

bottom
bottom

at the top 2J inches; at

inches

bottom

inches
7

}2

and

dart )/2 and

dart

3,4

inches; dart

and
,'o

}.2

inch.

+ inch.

y
2

inch.

inch.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR

Pivot at the following points for the gores

Front gore pivot

at

'

of the waist measure.

First side gore pivot at

Second side gore pivot

at

Third side gore pivot

To make

to

Draw
hip

in

of the waist measure.

at ]/
2 of the waist

Fourth side gore pivot

Draft the skirt as

of the waist measure.

at

of the waist measure.

diagram

20.

the flare at the bottom of the

is

inch (more,

more

if

a straight line from

measure,

wanted).

flare is

to

proceed as follows

skirt,

where

it

blends into the hip just below the

line.

Draw

a curved line from

info line

to

always.

from

to

to

Draw

is

same

the

as

a straight line

(about 12 inches above).

where

line

touches the centre line

the

in

diagram.

Draw

the curved line from

height as in line

to line

first

may be more on

being

The

inches.

letting

it

blend into line

2 at

the

same

1.

Proceed with the other gores

of flare

2,

inch

the

same manner, excepting

each succeeding gore,

the second

in

flare is also carried

<

inches

higher

in

if

amount

that the

The

desired, as in this diagram.

the third

inches,

and the fourth

each succeeding gore, the

first

'._,

being 12

inches; the second 14 inches; the third 16, and the fourth iS inches.

This diagram also shows the change necessary

back

have some fulness

in

is

order to

make

it is

a graceful skirt.

line in the centre

back slightly increases the

in

the

size at the hip,

quite essential for a proper hanging skirt.

When

it

is

desired to have an extra length of skirt in the back,

called a train, draft the skirt to the regular length,

will

come

in

front of the centre

the sides at the hip.

commonly

and then add as much as desired;

but care must be taken not to start the same too far forward, for

draw

necessary to

habit back skirt must not be too close fitting in the centre back

diagram the curved

which

back gore for a habit

there being no back gore at the top, but at the bottom

skirt,

The

in the

under the arm, which

in

so doing the

will raise the skirt

on

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DIAGRAM

22.

GORED SKIRT WITH CIRCULAR FLOUNCE.

Hip measure 40 divided by

equals

Waist measure 22 divided by

Hip 20 minus

equals

1.

equals 9 inches of swell.

20.

Swell 9 multiplied by 8 equals 72 plus

98,

11

(waist) plus 15 (back gore) equals

width of skirt without darts.

98 minus 63 (desired width at bottom) equals 35 inches of surplus.

Surplus 35 divided by
First dart

equals

Front gore at the top

inches for darts.

2^

inch: second dart

inches; third dart

inches, at the

bottom

First side gore at the top 3 inches, at the

Second side gore

Third side gore

Back gore

to

Sweep
sweep

is

Sweep

top

'

inches, at the

the usual

manner

bottom

as

shown

bottom ioi 2
1

in

inches.

inches.

diagram

across the front gore, pivoting at the

line

20.

same point

that

was used

to

side gore, pivoting at the

same point

that

was

across the second side gore, pivoting at the

same point

that

was

across the

line 2

line

used to sweep line

Sweep

inches.

on the front gore.

used to sweep

Sweep

in

inches.

the depth of flounce, 12 inches (more or less as desired).

line

line 2

at the

bottom 16

inches.

top 3 inches, at the bottom 15 inches.

at the top 5 inches, at the

Draft the skirt

at the

6}.,

1^

line

used to sweep

on

on

first

this gore.

this gore.

across the third side gore, pivoting at the

line 2

on the same gore.

same point that was

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Draw

line

across the back gore, keeping

By cutting through on

line

on

line

2.

across each gore the skirt will be 12 inches too

short, therefore draft a flounce 12 inches

line

from

12 inches

it

deep to sew to the bottom of the

skirt

1.

By measuring around from B on

of the flounce will need to be the

As

line

1,

it

found to be

is

same dimension, namely,

51 inches,

51

and the top

inches.

is desired to have the skirt 4 yards around the bottom, it will be necessary
flounce
to draft a
51 inches around the top, 72 inches around the bottom, and 12
it

inches deep.

A CIRCULAR FLOUNCE.
The same

principles are used to draft a circular flounce that are used in draft-

ing the yoke for the top of a skirt (diagram

concentric circles, with the difference of their

7),

namely, given the arcs of two

radii, to find

the radius of the smaller

circle.

The

The depth

72, their difference is 21.

of the flounce, 12 inches, which

must be the difference

As

and

arcs being 51

is

the distance between the arcs

of their radii.

the differnce between the arcs of two concentric circles

smaller circle as the difference of their radii

we have

the following proposition

is

is

to the arc of the

to the radius of the smaller circle,

and as multiplying the means together and dividing the

product by one of the extremes will give the other, we have the following solution
21

51

::

12

(?),

51 multiplied

the smaller

by

12 equals 612, divided

by

21 equals

29 1-7 inches as the radius of

circle.

HENCE THE FOLLOWING RULE.

To
flounce,

draft a circular flounce, multiply the top of the flounce

and divide the product by difference between the

by the depth of the

size of the top

and bottom,

multiplied by 12 (the depth of the flounce)

equals 612

the quotient will be the distance from which to pivot.

EXAMPLE.
Top
divided by

of flounce 51
2

(the difference between the top and the bottom) equals 29 1-7 inches as

the distance from which to pivot.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DRAFT THE FLOUNCE AS FOLLOWS:

Draw

line 3 straight.

to

is

the distance from which to pivot, 29 1-7 inches.

to

is

the depth of flounce, 12 inches.

Sweep

line 4

from D, pivoting at C.

Sweep

line 5

from E, pivoting at C.

Measure around on

from D, the

line 4,

size of the flounce at the top, 51 inches,

locating F.

Draw

half,

C through F

a straight line from

to line

5.

This gives a flounce 51 inches at the top, and 72 inches

or four yards around the bottom of the skirt.
Lines

may be drawn from

point, dividing

it

the pivot point (point

into sections,

and these

bottom, on the

at the

C) through the flounce

lines will run straight

any

at

up and down, but

unless they are kept in line with the pivot point, they will slope to the front or back.
points are wanted on the top of the flounce to run up the seams,

If

from

to the point

direction in

where the projection

is

wanted, and this line

draw a

line

will give the

which they should run.

TO DRAFT A GRADUATED CIRCULAR FLOUNCE.

Draft a skirt and a circular flounce as previously described, making the circular
flounce the

same depth

the

way around,

as the graduated circular flounce

is

to

Measure up from the bottom, in the centre back, the height the flounce
wanted at this point, and locate V, as X to V in diagram.

is

be

in

all

the centre front.

Select a point to pivot at that will strike a circle from

desired shape

(it

may be more curved

In this diagram line

7 is

to

and give the

or straighter than in diagram).

pivoted at G.

Having drafted a flounce

to

sew

to line

1,

if

this flounce

is

sewed

to line

7,

the

flounce will be too short at the bottom; proceed to add to the bottom as follows:

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

Measuring from B on

and

line

7,

6 inches, establishing

found that lines

it is

same at this point, but from this point they diverge, therefore from
must be an addition to the bottom of the flounce.

are the

this point there

to

on Figure

the

2 is

same

as

C and

Place the edge of the rule on

to

1,

on Figure

i,

6 inches.

locating (a) as the place where the

addition to the bottom of the flounce begins.

to J

dotted line from

I to

and by placing the edge of the rule on

6 inches,

is

to line

to

to

from

is

line

C and

namely,

1,

to

is

the

from

is

to

same

as

K, and locate (b) the same distance from

line

1,

and L, and draw the dotted

line

down

to line

1.

to L.

C and M, and
% inches.

namely,

locate (c) the

same distance from

6 inches.

is

Place the edge of the rule on

line

the

of an inch.

Place the edge of the rule on

line 5 as

we get

6 inches.

is

Place the edge of the rule on

J,

J.

Place the edge of the rule on

line 5 as J

and

1.

the same as

is

and N, and draw the dotted

line

from

to

1.

to

is

the

same

as

to N.

C and

Place the edge of the rule on

line 5 as

to

is

from

line

1,

namely, 3 inches.

6 inches.

is

Place the edge of the rule on

to

is

the

same

as

to

is

is

from

line

1,

and

P,

and draw the dotted

line

down

to line

1.

to P.

Place the edge of the rule on

line 5 as

O, and locate (d) the same distance from

C and

namely, 4,

..,

O, and locate (e) the same distance from

inches.

6 inches.

Place the edge of the rule on

and R, and draw the dotted

line

down

to line

1.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

Q

to

is

same

the

as

to R.

C and

Place the edge of the rule on

line 5 as

to

from

is

is

line

to

is

5,

as

the

same

to

from

is

\V

as

to

is

is

the

same distance from

the

line

C and U, and

namely,

i,

same

as

the

same

as

line

down

to line

locate (g) the

same distance from

inches.

'

and X, locating Y.

to Y.

C and

Z, locating (h).

Draw

a line from

Draw

the curved line from (a) through

(h).

b, c, d, e,

f,

and (g)

to (h).

Extra fulness may be thrown into the centre back, as shown by the dotted
if

i.

to V.

Place the edge of the rule on

W to

and T, and draw the dotted

to T.

Place the edge of the rule on

(f)

6 inches.

Place the edge of the rule on

line

and locate

namely, 6 inches.

i,

Place the edge of the rule on

S,

line

desired.

This diagram also shows a yoke forming a part of the front gore, or

in

other

words, the front gore forms a yoke running around the waist.

This

is

done by cutting

lines together, as

shown

in

In this style of skirt

let

off

the tops of the side gores, and putting the waist

the diagram.

it is

best to cut the side gores

them run under the yoke, and sew

to the waist band.

full

length at the top, and

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR.

DESIGNING FANCY GARMENTS.

The

may

novice not accustomed to designing

called Hat

pattern

has nothing to do with the fancy garment

sometimes

this,

however,

is

fancy garments should be made from the plain, smooth-fitting

for all

incorrect,

think that the plain

by adding fullness in the shape of tucks, plaits, gathers, etc., but after the
fullness has been added, the shape must be the same as the plain flat pattern, in
order to fit the person for whom it was designed.
pattern,

It

therefore necessary to draft the plain, smooth-fitting pattern, and from

is

this pattern design the fancy pattern.

To

illustrate

each seam,

how

may be

this

done,

we

will

take a skirt with a side plait at

inch wide, and turned toward the back.

Draft a plain skirt with the desired number of gores, then add

back side of each gore,

this

amount being taken up by the

plait,

inches to the

leaves the gore

the original size and shape.

the plait

If

is

to lay

toward the

front,

it

will

be necessary to add the

inches

to the front side of each side gore, in order to cover the seams.

For a

skirt with a box-plait in the centre of

Take

a piece of paper the length of the skirt, and form a box-plait in the

centre of the same,

now

centre of the gore, and

the plait

folded,

is

lay the plain gore

mark around

and you

will

on

each gore proceed as follows

this

paper with the box-plait

in

the

the gore; cut the paper on these lines, while

have the same

size

and shape as the original gore

smooth out the plate in the pattern, and you will have a pattern the correct shape
to cut the goods by, and when the box-plait is formed in the goods, it will have the

same shape

as the original gore.

Patterns
ing panels,
size

may be

etc.,

cut at given points and

at these points,

thereby form-

but when the several pieces are joined, the whole must be the same

and shape as the original

seamed

flat

pattern.

place,

may be taken from any plain, flat pattern, and a piece inserted in its
which may be plaited, gathered, shirred, or otherwise fulled, but this piece,

when

so fulled, must be the

section

the pattern,

same size and shape

otherwise the garment will not fit.

The above

applies not only to skirts, but to

as the section which

all

was cut from

other garments as well.

The
A

treatise

Tailor

Scientific

on the designing; and drafting of patterns for

garments employing the principles used

in

all

classes oi

mechanical drafting.

The author having spent several years

in

introducing his work into the

Factories, Schools, Tailoring and Dress-making establishments through-

out the United States and

every part of the same,

Canada

now

offers

in

order to thoroughly test each and

it

to the public in separate volumes,

each one being adapted to a special branch of the garment industry.

This work

is

especially adapted to the wants of Technical

Training Schools, being

in

the educational

line,

and Manual

and based on Geometry.

Price $10.00
The
to the

CURVE-RULE,

described

garment designer, enabling him

volume,

in this

to

do more and

a great

boon

far better

work

is

than can possibly be done by freehand movement.

Price $3.00
(

By Express)

SQUARES, RULES, TRACING WHEELS,

We are prepared to
for factory purposes,

ETC.,

ALWAYS ON HAND

furnish block patterns for all classes of garments

which are

far superior to

any pattern heretofore

offered to the general public; our large sizes fitting as well as the inter-

mediate

sizes, as

we do no

grading, each size being an individual creation.

Special patterns drafted to measures for any style of garment wanted.

THE SCIENTIFIC TAILOR,

134

West 25th

Street,

NEW

YORK.

TBRftRV OF

CONGRESS

9<
013 973 152