Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

All youve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET

PAGE

PLAN
YOUR TRIP

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

2
6
18
20
21
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30
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42
49
52

Welcome to

the USA

CIITY
CITY
C
TY
T original
orig
or ginal
The
Comprehensive
Adventurous

Bright Lights, Big Cities

On the Road Again

merica is the birthplace of LA, Las Vegas,

hicago, Miami, Boston and New York
ity each a brimming metropolis whose
ame alone conjures a million dierent
otions of culture, cuisine and entertainment. Look more closely, and the American
uilt unfurls in all its surprising variety:
he eclectic music scene of Austin, the easyoing charms of antebellum Savannah, the
coconsciousness of free-spirited Portland,
he magnicent waterfront of San Franciso, and the captivating old quarters of New
rleans, still rising up from its waterlogged
shes.

This is a country of road trips and great

open skies, where four million miles of
highways lead past red-rock deserts, below
towering mountain peaks, and across fertile
wheat elds that roll o toward the horizon. The sun-bleached hillsides of the Great
Plains, the lush rain forests of the Pacic
Northwest and the scenic country lanes of
New England are a few ne starting points
for the great American road trip.

DISCOVER
D SC
DISC
SCOVER
OV
OVER
Best of
Best-of
Photo-packed
Inspirational

NATIONAL
NATIO
NATI
ONA PARKS
ONAL
PA
ARK
AR
KS
KS
Deta
ailed itineraries
ailed
itinerarie
itin
Detailed
Hikes and drives
Family-friendly

Food-Loving Nation
Cuisine is another way of illuminating the
American experience. On one evening in
the US, thick barbecue ribs and smoked

England in Fall
P MONTH BY MONTH

Welcome to the USA ......

25 Top Experiences .......
Need to Know .................
Whats New .....................
If You Like... .....................
Month by Month .............
Itineraries ........................
Road Trips &
Scenic Drives ................
USA Outdoors ................
Travel with Children .......
Regions at a Glance .......

Get the right guides for your trip

The beer-loving city of

Portland pulls out the stops
and pours a heady array
of handcrafted perfection
(www.oregonbrewfest.com;
p1039). Featuring 80 dierent beers from around the
country, there are plenty of
choices; and its nicely set
along the banks of the Willamette River.

major event, one approaching epic proportions in New England (p162): watching the
s change color. You can do it just about anywhere all you need is one brilliant tree. But if
st people, youll want lots of trees. From the Litcheld Hills in Connecticut and the BerkMassachusetts to Stowe in northern Vermont, entire hillsides blaze in brilliant crimsons,
nd yellows. Covered bridges and white-steeple churches with abundant maple trees put
nd New Hampshire in the forefront of leaf-peeping heaven. New Hampshire (p222)

Pageant of the
1 Masters

This eight-week arts fest

(www.LagunaFestivalofArts.
org; p915) brings a touch of
the surreal to Laguna Beach,
CA. On stage, meticulously
costumed actors create living pictures imitations of
famous works of art which
is accompanied by narration
and an orchestra.

USA
Outdoors
Best Wildlife
Watching
Bears in Glacier National Park, MT
Elk, bison and gray wolves in Yellowstone
National Park, WY
Alligators, manatees and sea turtles in the
Florida Everglades
Whales and dolphins on Monterey Bay, CA

Top Aquatic
Activities
White-water rafting on the New River, WV
Surng perfect waves in Oahu, HI
Diving and snorkeling o the Florida Keys
Kayaking pristine Penobscot Bay, ME

Best Multiday
Adventures
Hiking the Appalachian Trail
Mountain-biking Kokopellis Trail, UT
Climbing 13,770ft Grand Teton in Grand
Teton National Park, WY
Canoeing portaging and camping in the

Towering redwoods, a
hills, chiseled peaks, lu
dramatic coastline of u
USA has no shortage of
for a bit of outdoor adv
weve described just o
In the other 49 lie an a
of natural wonders, fro
and lush rainforests to
tains and vast stretches
of people but full of end
No matter your weak
kayaking, rafting, surn
rock climbing youll
to commune with the
if youre thinking of tr
the USA is a great plac
hone your craft.
For outdoor activitie
lent infrastructure and
for planning an adven
entails trekking some (
lachian Trail, mountain
carving up the legend
in the Rockies; for som

Newport, RI, a summer

haunt of the well-heeled,
hosts a world-class music
fest (www.newportfolkfest.
com; p205) in late July. Top
folk artists from every corner of America and beyond
take to the stage at this fun,
all-welcoming event.

August

Looking for other travel resources?

UNDERSTAND
1099 THE USA

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

PAGE

1100
1103
1115
1120
1122
1128
1132
1142
1146
1150

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see
population per sq mile
AUSTRALIA

You can follow the

Lewis and Clark
expedition on
its extraordinary
journey west to
the Pacific and
back again online
at www.pbs.org/
lewisandclark,
which features
historical maps,
photo albums and
journal excerpts.

,
g
another hurdle, linking Midwestern farmers with East Coast mar
In 1836 a group of Texans fomented a revolution against Mexico
member the Alamo? See p667.) Ten years later, the US annexed the
Republic, and when Mexico resisted, the US wage war for it an
they were at it, took California too. In 1848, Mexico was soun y e
and ceded this territory to the US. This completed the USAs conti
expansion.
By a remarkable coincidence, only days after the 1848 treaty
Mexico was signed, gold was discovered in California. By 1849, su
rivers of wagon trains were creaking west lled with miners, pio
entrepreneurs, immigrants, outlaws and prostitutes, all seeking the
tunes. This made for exciting, legendary times, but throughout o
a troubling question: as new states joined the USA, would they be
states or free states? The nations future depended on the answer.

CANADA

The Civil War

The US Constitution hadnt ended slavery, but it had given Congre

power to approve (or not) slavery in new states. Public debates rage
stantly over the expansion of slavery, particularly since this shap
balance of power between the industrial North and the agrarian So

1849

1861-65

After the 1848

discovery of gold near
Sacramento, an epic
cross-country gold
rush sees 60,000
forty-niners ock to
Californias Mother
Lode. San Franciscos
population explodes
from 850 to 25,000.

American Civil War

erupts between
North and South
(delineated by the
Mason-Dixon line).
The wars end on April
9, 1865, is marred by
President Lincolns
assassination ve
days later.

Freed black m
given the vote,
Souths segrega
Jim Cro
(which rema
the 1960s) ee
disenfranchise
from every mea
sphere of da

The USA Today

Memories from the Past
on
omest
ion
omest per
,200
oy%

The 21st century has certainly been a tumultuous one for the USA. As
Americans looked toward the future, many found it dicult to leave the
past behind. This was not surprising since wars in Afghanistan and in
Iraq, launched a decade prior, continued to simmer on the backburner of
the ever-changing news cycle. Add to that the 10-year anniversary of September 11, which again brought back memories of that day when thousands perished in terrorist attacks. Earlier in 2011, in a subterfuge operation vetted by president Obama, Navy Seals raided Osama Bin Ladens
Pakistan hideout, bringing an end to Americas greatest public enemy

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USA

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The USA Today ...............

History .............................
The Way of Life ..............
Native Americans...........
American Cuisine ...........
Wine, Beer & Beyond .....
Arts & Architecture ........
The Music Scene ............
The Land &
Environment .................
Wild Things .....................

REG
R
REGIO
EG ONA
AL
L
REGIONAL
Culturall
Cultura
Cultu
Day trips and itineraries
In-depth

(above) Thanksgiving Day Parade, New York City.

(below) Mardi Gras, New Orleans.

Newport Folk
z Festival

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ON THE
ROAD

PAGE

56

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

ME

WA

Pacific
Northwest
p1001
OR

MT

ND

Rocky
ID Mountains
p703

MN

WY
NV

CA

California
p882

AZ

Great Plains
p598

CO

KS
OK

NM
TX

Texas
p651

MI

CT

PA

Great Lakes
p500 OH

IA

NE

UT

Southwest
p785

WI

SD

New
New York,
England
New Jersey & VT
NH p162
Pennsylvania MA
NY
p58
RI

IL

WV

IN
KY

MO

MS

The South SC
p320
AL

GA

LA

Florida
p440

FL

AK

Alaska
p1061

Washington, DC
& the Capital Region
p244

VA
NC

TN

AR

NJ
DE
MD

HI

Hawaii
p1079

SURVIVAL
1153 GUIDE
PAGE

Directory AZ .................
Transportation ...............
Index ................................
Map Legend ....................

1154
1168
1187
1204

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Directory
A-Z
Accommodations
he listings in the accomodations sections of this
debook are in order of
erence. For all but the
pest places and the
t seasons, reservaadvised. In highrist hot spots,
ok up months
al, many
s on their
chains

Bed
Online (w
BedandBrea
(www.bedandbrea
BnB Finder (www.b
com)
Pamela Laniers Bed
& Breakfast Inns (www.
lanierbb.com)
Select Registry (www.
selectregistry.com)

Hostels
Hostels are mainly found in
urban areas, in the northeast,
the Paci
c Northwest, California and the Southwest.
Hostelling International
USA (HI-USA; %301-495-1240;
www.hiusa.org; annual membership adult/child/senior $28/
free/$18) runs more than 50
hostels in the US. Most have
gender-segregated dorms,
a few private rooms, shared
baths and a communal
kitchen. Overnight fees for
dorm beds range from $
to $45. HI-USA membe
entitled to small disc
Reservations are a
(you can book o
advised durin
when ther
night

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Regis St Louis
Amy C Balfour, Michael Benanav, Andrew Bender, Glenda Bendure, Sara Benson,
Alison Bing, Je Campbell, Nate Cavalieri, Sarah Chandler, Jim DuFresne, Lisa Dunford,
Ned Friary, Bridget Gleeson, Michael Grosberg, Beth Kohn, Mariella Krause, Emily
Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Andrea
Schulte-Peevers, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, John A Vlahides, Karla Zimmerman

Look out for these icons:

authors
A green or
No payment
oOur
recommendation Ssustainable option Frequired

NEW YORK,
NEW JERSEY &
PENNSYLVANIA . . . . 58

WASHINGTON, DC
& THE CAPITAL
REGION . . . . . . . . . . 244

NEW YORK CITY . . . . . . . . . .62

WASHINGTON, DC . . . . . . .248

FLORIDA . . . . . . . . . 440

NEW YORK
STATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Long Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .114

MARYLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . .270
Baltimore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
Annapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281

NEW JERSEY . . . . . . . . . . . . 127

Jersey Shore . . . . . . . . . . . 130

DELAWARE . . . . . . . . . . . . .287

SOUTH FLORIDA . . . . . . . 445

Miami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445
Fort Lauderdale . . . . . . . . 459
The Everglades . . . . . . . . . 463

PENNSYLVANIA . . . . . . . . . 134
Philadelphia . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Pittsburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155

NEW ENGLAND . . . . .162

MASSACHUSETTS . . . . . . . 167
Boston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167
Cape Cod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Marthas
Vineyard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
RHODE ISLAND . . . . . . . . .201
Providence. . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
CONNECTICUT . . . . . . . . . .207
Hartford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
VERMONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Burlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
NEW HAMPSHIRE . . . . . . .222
Portsmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Manchester . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
MAINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
Acadia National
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
Bar Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . 240

VIRGINIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
Fredericksburg . . . . . . . . . 295
Richmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
WEST VIRGINIA. . . . . . . . . . 315

THE SOUTH . . . . . . . 320

NORTH CAROLINA. . . . . . .324
Charlotte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
SOUTH CAROLINA . . . . . . 339
Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
Columbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
TENNESSEE . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Memphis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
Nashville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359
KENTUCKY . . . . . . . . . . . . .370
Louisville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .371
GEORGIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378
Atlanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379
Savannah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
ALABAMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .397
Birmingham . . . . . . . . . . . 397
MISSISSIPPI . . . . . . . . . . . 402
Mississippi Delta . . . . . . . 403
Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407
LOUISIANA . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
New Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . 410

ARKANSAS . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
Little Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434

ATLANTIC COAST. . . . . . . .474

Daytona Beach . . . . . . . . . 476
Jacksonville . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
WEST COAST. . . . . . . . . . . .481
Tampa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
St Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . 484
CENTRAL FLORIDA . . . . . 489
Orlando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
Walt Disney World Resort .493
FLORIDA PANHANDLE . . 495

GREAT LAKES . . . . . 500

ILLINOIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
INDIANA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .535
Indianapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . 536
OHIO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .542
Cleveland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542
Amish Country . . . . . . . . . 548
Columbus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549
Cincinnati . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
MICHIGAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . .555
Detroit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
WISCONSIN . . . . . . . . . . . .572
Milwaukee . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
MINNESOTA . . . . . . . . . . . .582

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road
Minneapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . 582
St Paul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590

GREAT PLAINS . . . . 598

MISSOURI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602
St Louis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
Kansas City . . . . . . . . . . . . 612
IOWA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616
Des Moines . . . . . . . . . . . . 617
NORTH DAKOTA . . . . . . . . 620
SOUTH DAKOTA . . . . . . . . .624
NEBRASKA . . . . . . . . . . . . 634
Omaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 634

WYOMING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741
Cheyenne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 742
Yellowstone
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 744
Grand Teton
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 750
MONTANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .754
Bozeman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 754
Missoula. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 758
Glacier National Park . . . 761
IDAHO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .763
Boise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 763

SOUTHWEST . . . . . . .785

KANSAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 639
Wichita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 639

NEVADA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790
Las Vegas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790

OKLAHOMA. . . . . . . . . . . . 644
Oklahoma City . . . . . . . . . 644

ARIZONA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 808
Phoenix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 809
Flagstaff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 818
Grand Canyon
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 823
Tucson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 832

TEXAS . . . . . . . . . . . .651
SOUTH-CENTRAL TEXAS. . 653
Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 656
San Antonio. . . . . . . . . . . . 666
Houston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 672
SOUTHERN GULF COAST 680
DALLAS-FORT WORTH . . 682
WEST TEXAS . . . . . . . . . . . 694
Big Bend National Park . . 694
Guadalupe Mountains
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 702

ROCKY
MOUNTAINS . . . . . . 703
COLORADO . . . . . . . . . . . . .709
Denver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 709

UTAH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .837
Salt Lake City . . . . . . . . . . 838
NEW MEXICO . . . . . . . . . . .857
Albuquerque . . . . . . . . . . . 858
Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 863
Taos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 871

CALIFORNIA . . . . . . 882
LOS ANGELES . . . . . . . . . . .887
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 911
Disneyland & Anaheim . . .911
San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . 916

PALM SPRINGS & THE

DESERTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .927
Palm Springs. . . . . . . . . . . 928
Joshua Tree
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . .930
Death Valley National
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 933
Big Sur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 940
SAN FRANCISCO &
THE BAY AREA . . . . . . . . . .947
San Francisco . . . . . . . . . . 947
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA . .975
Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . 975
Sacramento. . . . . . . . . . . . 984
SIERRA NEVADA . . . . . . . . 989
Yosemite National Park . . 989
Sequoia & Kings Canyon
National Parks . . . . . . . . . 994
Lake Tahoe . . . . . . . . . . . . 998

PACIFIC
NORTHWEST . . . . . .1001
WASHINGTON. . . . . . . . . .1007
Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1007
OREGON . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1034
Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1034

ALASKA . . . . . . . . . .1061
SOUTHEAST ALASKA . . 1064
ANCHORAGE. . . . . . . . . . . 1074

HAWAII . . . . . . . . . . .1079
OAHU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1082
HAWAII THE BIG
ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1087
MAUI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1091
KAUAI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1095

USA
USA
0
0

500 km
300 miles

Seattle
Trend-setting
coffee lover near
120W
lush wilderness (p1007)

130W

ELEVATION

110W

100W

16,000ft
12,000ft
9000ft

2000ft

REGINA

-500ft

Spokane

ssouri
Mi

Ca s
c ad
e

Portland
SALEM

Washington
e

Seattle
OLYMPIA

Sea Level

Ra
ng

500ft

San Francisco
Hilly grand dame with a
40N bohemian soul (p947)

Missoula

HELENA
Bozeman

Oregon

ke

CARSON
CITY

SALT LAKE
CITY

PACIFIC
OCEAN

170W
160W 150W 140W
a
Se
i
ARCTIC
ch
70N

0W

17

Anchorage

Kodiak
Island

DA
NA
CA

60

Seward
Peninsula Alaska

150W

San
Antonio

Rio

Grand Canyon
Vast, wondrous and
utterly unforgettable (p823)

Ch

OCEAN

Texas

an d
Gr

uk

El Paso
Ciudad
Jurez

MEXICO
0
150 km
Kauai
100 miles
Oahu 0
Niihau
HONOLULU
Molokai
Lanai
Maui
Hawaii
Kahoolawe Kailua- 20N

Kona

Hilo

Hawaii

JUNEAU

Gulf of
Alaska
120W

Fort
Worth

Tucson

Nunivak
Island

Bering
Sea
Aleutian
Islands

SANTA FE

New
Mexico

Fairbanks

20N

Kansas

Albuquerque

MEXICALI

500 km
300 miles

DENVER
Colorado
Springs

Colorado

ra

lo

i
oR

Arizona

Die
San Diego
Tijuana
Tiju

RUSSIA

Boulder

Flagstaff

Los Angeles
Multicultural 'hoods, beaches
and endless amusement (p887)

St Lawrence
Island

ve

Co

Los Angeles

Nebraska
CHEYENNE

Utah

Las
Vegas

California

PIERRE
Rapid
City

Wyoming

Nevada

Yosemite National Park

Waterfalls, granite peaks and
dreamlike landscapes (p989)

BISMARCK

South
Dakota

Ri

Great Salt
Lake

Reno

North
Dakota

Montana

s
Mo u nt ai n
Ro c k y
e
l Divid
etna
nt in
Coe r
v

BOISE

SACRAMENTO
San Francisco
San Jose

Ri ver

Idaho
S na

0
0

CANADA

VICTORIA

1000ft

30N

Lake
Manitoba

Calgary

Vancouver

5000ft

160W

140W
110W

PACIFIC
OCEAN
100W

Top Experiences
Experiences
90W

80W

70W

WINNIPEG

Thunder
Bay

rior
Supe
ke
La

n
re QUBEC

Maine

Burlington

AUGUSTA

ron
e Hu
ak

p
ssi p
ssi

NH
MONTPELIER
Mic
CONCORD
L
hig
New York VT
BOSTON
TORONTO
ALBANY MA
PROVIDENCE
HARTFORD
RI
CT
LANSING Detroit
Pennsylvania New York

an

Wisconsin
ST PAUL
Green
Minneapolis Mi
Bay
MADISON

OTTAWA

Lake Michi
gan

Minnesota

Montral

St La
w

ce

Chicago
Stunning architecture and
lakefront festivals (p505)

60W
Boston
Follow the cobblestones
into history (p167)

River

New York
Famed metropolis and
cultural capital (p62)

40

Cleveland
Philadelphia
TRENTON
Milwaukee
HARRISBURG
NJ
Chicago Toledo
DOVER DE
Baltimore
Illinois Indiana Ohio Pittsburgh
ANNAPOLIS
s
Iowa
COLUMBUS
WASHINGTON, DC
INDIANAPOLIS
WV
MD
Cincinnati
SPRINGFIELD
LINCOLN
RICHMOND
Kansas St Louis
CHARLESTON
Virginia
City
a
FRANKFORT
hi
ac
TOPEKA
l
a
JEFFERSON
Kentucky
North RALEIGH
CITY
Wichita
Carolina
National Mall
NASHVILLE
Wilmington
Missouri
Charlotte
Iconic monuments on

Ap
p

Mo
un
ta
in

iver

DES
MOINES
Omaha

Memphis

Miss i s si ppi Riv

er

Oklahoma

Augusta

AUSTIN

Georgia

Savannah

JACKSON

Alabama

BATON
ROUGE

ATLANTIC
30N
OCEAN

MONTGOMERY
Jacksonville

TALLAHASSEE

St Augustine

Orlando

Louisiana
Houston

America's front lawn (p249)

COLUMBIA
Charleston

ATLANTA

Birmingham

Mississippi

Dallas

South
Carolina

Greenville

Tennessee

Tulsa Arkansas
OKLAHOMA LITTLE
ROCK
CITY

New
Orleans

Blue Ridge Parkway

Drive among the scenic
Appalachian Mountains (p39)

Tampa

Florida

Corpus
Christi

New Orleans
Cajun cookin', hot jazz and
Mardi Gras (p410)
Austin
Creative and indie-loving
music capital (p656)

Hawaii
Beaches, volcanoes and
tropical island allure (p1079)

Gulf of
Mexico

MEXICO

90W

BAHAMAS
Fort
Lauderdale
NASSAU
Miami

Key
West

HAVANA

CUBA
20N

Miami
Cuban food, art deco and
sultry beaches (p445)
80W

Karla Zimmerman
Great Lakes As a life-long Midwesterner, Karla is well-versed in the regions
beaches, ballparks, breweries and pie shops. When shes not home in Chicago
watching the Cubs, er, writing for newspapers, books and magazines, shes out
exploring. For this gig, she curled in Minnesota, caught a wave in Michigan, heard
the curds squeak in Wisconsin and drank an embarrassing number of milkshakes in Ohio. Karla has written for several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering
the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe.
Read more about Karla at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

Bradley Mayhew
Rocky Mountains An expat Brit, Bradley currently calls southeastern Montana
home. Half a lifetime of travels through Central Asia, Tibet and Mongolia has
made him feel quite at home in Big Sky country. He is the coordinating author of
a dozen Lonely Planet guides, including Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, Central Asia and
Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks and he hikes nearby Yellowstone Park
and the Beartooth Mountains every chance he gets. See what hes up to at www.
bradleymayhew.blogspot.com.
Carolyn McCarthy
Rocky Mountains Carolyn became enamored of the Rockies as an undergraduate at Colorado College. She studied, skied and hiked her way through the
region, even working as a boot fitter. In the last seven years she has contributed
to over a dozen Lonely Planet titles and has written for National Geographic,
Outside, Lonely Planet Magazine and other publications. You can follow her
Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com.

Kevin Raub
The South Though Indiana born, Kevin grew up in Atlanta and started his career
as a music journalist in New York, working for Mens Journal and Rolling Stone
magazines. The rock n roll lifestyle took its toll, so he needed an extended vacation and took up travel writing while ditching the States for Brazil. This homecoming, covering Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas and Louisiana, only
rearmed a bumper sticker he has contemplated for years: Hoosier by Birth,
Southern by the Grace of God! This is Kevins 13th Lonely Planet guide. You can find him at www.
kevinraub.net.
Brendan Sainsbury
Rocky Mountains, Pacific Northwest UK-born Brendan lives in White Rock, Canada within baseball-pitching distance (almost) of the USA and the Pacific Northwest. He has been researching the area for Lonely Planet since 2007 and his
forays across the border have included fine-dining in the San Juan Islands, hitchhiking in western Montana and running 100 miles unassisted across the Cascade
Mountains in a so-called endurance race. Brendan is also a co-author of Lonely Planets Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest guidebook.
Read more about Brendan at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/brendansainsbury

Andrea Schulte-Peevers
California Andrea fell in love with California its pizzazz, people and sunshine
almost the instant she landed in the Golden State. She grew up in Germany, lived
in London and traveled the world before getting a degree from UCLA and embarking on a career in travel writing. Andrea has written or contributed to some 60
Lonely Planet books, including several editions of this one as well as California,
Los Angeles and Southern California.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes

Great Plains Ryan first drove across the Great Plains with his family in the 1960s.
Among his treasured memories are a pair of Wild West six-shooters he got at
Wall Drugs in South Dakota and which he still has (in a box someplace not under
his pillow). Through the years he never passes up a chance to wander the backroads of Americas heartland finding beauty and intrigue where you least expect
it. Find more at www.ryanverberkmoes.com.
Read more about Ryan at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes

John A Vlahides
California John cohosts the TV series Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled,
screening on National Geographic Channels International. John studied cooking
in Paris with the same chefs who trained Julia Child, and is a former luxury-hotel
concierge and member of Les Clefs dOr, the international union of the worlds
elite concierges. He lives in San Francisco, where he sings tenor with the San
Francisco Symphony, and spends free time skiing the Sierra Nevada. For more, see johnvlahides.
com and twitter.com.johnvlahides.
Read more about John at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/johnvlahides

Ned Friary & Glenda Bendure

New England Ned and Glenda hail from Cape Cod, their home since the 1980s.
Ocean swims, long bike rides and road trips around New England are favorite
pastimes. The highlight of their latest trip was a climb to the summit of Acadia
Mountain in Acadia National Park, where the jaw-dropping views reminded them
just how wildly diverse New England is. Theyve written extensively on the region
and are co-authors of Lonely Planets New England and Discover USAs Best
National Parks guides.

Bridget Gleeson
California A journalist who divides her time between California and Argentina,
Bridget has written about food, wine, hotels and adventure travel for Budget
Travel, Afar, Delta Sky, Jetsetter, Continental, Tablet Hotels and Mr & Mrs Smith.
Follow her travels at www.bridgetgleeson.com.
Read more about Bridget at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/bridgetgleeson

Michael Grosberg
New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania Growing up Michael spent family holidays
crisscrossing NY, NJ and PA and with his large New York City family and grew to
know their neighborhoods as if they were his own. After several long overseas trips
and many careers, some abroad, Michael returned to New York City for graduate
school and taught literature in colleges. Hes lived in three of the five boroughs and
takes every opportunity to hit the road and explore these diverse states.

Beth Kohn
California A lucky long-time resident of San Francisco, Beth loves to be playing
outside or splashing in big puddles of water. For this guide, she hiked and biked
Bay Area byways, lugged a bear canister along the John Muir Trail and selflessly
soaked in hot springs for research purposes, of course. An author of Lonely
Planets Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks and California
guides, you can see more of her work at www.bethkohn.com.

Mariella Krause
Texas Although she currently lives in California, Mariella will always consider Texas home. She lived in Austin for 15 years and still sprinkles her language with Texanisms whenever possible, much to the amusement of those who dont consider
yall a proper pronoun. Fresh o last years Texas guide, Mariella is as proud as a
kitten in a pickup to once again share her favorite places in the Lone Star state.

Emily Matchar
The South A native Tarheel, Emily lives and works in Chapel Hill, North Carolina
(when shes not bopping around the globe, that is). Though she doesnt have a
Southern accent, she does know how to smoke a hog, hotwire a pickup truck and
bake a mean coconut cake. She writes about culture, food and travel for a variety
of national magazines and newspapers, and has contributed to a dozen Lonely
Planet guides.
Read more about Emily at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/emilymatchar

Sara Benson
USAs National Parks, California, Hawaii After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her
pocket. She has bounced around the Golden State ever since, in between stints
living in Asia and Hawaii and working as a national park ranger. The author of 50
travel and nonfiction books, Sara dodged avalanches in Lake Tahoe and rockslides along Big Surs splendid coast while writing this guide. Follow her adventures online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com and www.twitter.com/indie_traveler.
Read more about Sara at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/Sara_Benson

Alison Bing
California After 18 years in San Francisco, Alison has done everything youre supposed to do in the city and some things youre not, including falling in love on the
Haight St bus and eating a Mission burrito in one sitting. Alison holds degrees in
art history and international relations respectable diplomatic credentials she
regularly undermines with opinionated culture commentary for newspapers,
magazines, TV, radio and books, including Lonely Planets USA Trips, California,
San Francisco and San Francisco Encounter guides.
Je Campbell
Florida Je is the great-grandson of Florida pioneers who cleared the pines,
mined the phosphate, and paved the roads in central Florida. As a child, he remembers searching for alligators in the local lake, and riding Space Mountain
the year it opened. As an adult, hes been a travel writer for Lonely Planet since
2000. He was the coordinating author of Florida, as well as three editions of
USA, among other US titles.

Nate Cavalieri
California A native of central Michigan, Nate lives in Northern California and has
crisscrossed the regions back roads by bicycle, bus and rental car on a tireless
search for the biggest trees, the best camping and the hoppiest pints of craft
beer. In addition to authoring guides on California and Latin America for Lonely
Planet, he writes about jazz and pop music and is the jazz editor at Rhapsody
Music Service. Photos from his travels in Northern California and other writing
can be found at www.natecavalieri.com.
Read more about Nate at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/natecavalieri

Sarah Chandler
Southwest Long enamored of Sin Citys gritty enchantments, Sarah jumped
at the chance to sharpen her blackjack skills while delving into the atomic and
alien mysteries of rural Nevada. In Vegas, Sarah learned the secret art of bypassing velvet ropes, bounced from buets to pool parties, and explored the seedy
vintage glamour of downtown. Sarah is currently based between the US and
Amsterdam, where she works as a writer, actress, and lecturer at Amsterdam
University College. When in doubt, she always doubles down.
Read more about Sarah at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/sarahchandler

Jim DuFresne
Alaska Jim has lived, worked and wandered across Alaska and even cashed
a Permanent Fund Dividend check. As the sports and outdoors editor of the
Juneau Empire, he was the first Alaskan sportswriter to win a national award
from Associated Press. As a guide for Alaska Discovery he has witness Hubbard
Glacier shed icebergs the size of pickup trucks o its 8-mile-wide face. Jim now
lives in Michigan writing for www.MichiganTrailMaps.com and regularly returns
to the Far North to update Lonely Planets Alaska.
Lisa Dunford
Southwest As one of the possibly thousands of great, great grand-daughters of
Brigham Young, ancestry first drew Lisa to Utah. But its the incredible red rocks
that keep her coming back. Driving the remote backroads outside Blu, she was
reminded of how here the earth seems at its most elemental. Before becoming
a freelance author 10 years ago, Lisa was a newspaper editor and writer in South
Texas. Lisa co-authored Lonely Planets Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks.

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of

adventure. In 1972 thats all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but
inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week theyd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has oces in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 sta and writers. We share Tonys belief that a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.

OUR WRITERS
Regis St Louis
Coordinating Author, Washington, DC & the Capital Region A Hoosier by birth,
Regis grew up in a sleepy riverside town where he dreamed of big-city intrigue.
In 2001, he settled in New York, which had all that and more. He has also lived in
San Francisco and Los Angeles and has crossed the country by train, bus and
car, while visiting remote corners of America. Favorite memories from his most
recent trip include chasing the bluegrass scene across southern Virginia, chanting with Krishna devotees in West Virginia and crab feasting all over Maryland. Regis has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet titles, including Washington, DC and NYC.
Read more about Regis at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/regisstlouis

Amy C Balfour
Southwest Amy has hiked, biked, skied and gambled her way across the Southwest, finding herself returning again and again to Flagsta, Monument Valley
and, always, the Grand Canyon. On this trip she fell hard for Bisbee and Chiricahua National Monument. When shes not daydreaming about red rocks and
green chile hamburgers, shes writing about food, travel and the outdoors. Amy
has authored or co-authored 11 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, including Los
Angeles Encounter, California, Hawaii and Arizona.

Read more about Amy at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/amycbalfour

Michael Benanav
Southwest Michael came to New Mexico in 1992 and quickly fell under its spell;
soon after, he moved to a rural village in the Sangre de Cristo foothills, where he
still lives. A veteran international traveler, he cant imagine a better place to come
home to after a trip. Aside from his work for Lonely Planet, hes authored two
nonfiction books and writes and photographs for magazines and newspapers.
His website is www.michaelbenanav.com.
Andrew Bender
California Andrew is a true Angeleno, not because he was born in Los Angeles
but because hes made it his own. Two decades ago, this native New Englander
packed up the car and drove cross-country to work in film production, and eventually realized that the joy was in the journey (and writing about it). His work has
since appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Forbes, over two dozen Lonely Planet
titles, and on his blog, www.wheres-andy-now.com. Current obsessions: discovering LAs next great ethnic enclave, and winter sunsets over the bike path in Santa Monica.
OVER MORE
PAGE WRITERS
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
7th edition Mar 2012
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 900 2
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs as indicated 2012
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in Singapore
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Itineraries

Whether youve got six days or

60, these itineraries provide a
starting point for the trip of a
lifetime. Want more inspiration?
Head online to lonelyplanet.
com/thorntree to chat with other
travelers.

CANADA
Maine

Vermont
New
Hampshire

# Portsmouth

Salem
#
Concord
Provincetown

#
Bennington

#
#

Boston
Massachusetts

New
York

30

Connecticut

# Cape Cod
Rhode
Island

# Hamptons

Pennsylvania

New York

Two to Three Weeks

East Coasting
The great dynamo of art, fashion and culture, New York City is America at her
most urbane. Spend four days exploring the metropolis, visiting memorable peoplewatching hoods such as the West and East Villages, the Lower East Side, Soho, Nolita
and the Upper West Side, with a museum hop down the Upper East Side. Have a
ramble in Central Park, stroll the High Line and take a detour to Brooklyn. After big-city
culture, catch your breath at the pretty beaches and enticing charms of the Hamptons on
Long Island. Back in NYC, catch the train to Boston, for two days visiting historic sights,
dining in the North End and pub-hopping in Cambridge. Strike out for Cape Cod, with its
idyllic dunes, forests and pretty shores. Leave time for Provincetown, the Capes liveliest
settlement. Back in Boston, hire a car and take a three-day jaunt taking in New Englands
back roads, covered bridges, picturesque towns and beautiful scenery, staying at heritage
B&Bs en route. Highlights include Salem and Concord in Massachusetts; Bennington,
Vermont; and Portsmouth, New Hampshire. If time allows, head all the way up to Maine
for lobster feasts amid beautifully rugged coastline.

31
Olmpic San Juan Glacier
CANADA
National Islands National
Park
#
Park
Seattle

#
#
Bob Marshall
#

#
Mt RainierR

#Wilderness Complex
Spokane
Nth Dakota Minnesota
#
Washington
Montana
Missoula
Mt Rushmore &
New Rhode
Wisconsin
#Bozeman Crazy Horse
Oregon
Yellowstone
Minneapolis
York Island
Cody
Corn
National Park #
#

#
Michigan
Palace
#
New York
Idaho

#
Deadwood
#

# Madison

#
Harrisburg
Grand Teton
Sth Dakota

# #
Chicago
#

#
#

National Park
Pine Ridge Badlands

#
Iowa
Philadelphia
Wyoming Indian National Park
Indiana Ohio Pittsburgh
Nevada
Reservation Nebraska
Illinois
Utah
West Virginia

MEXICO

Three Weeks

Northern Expedition
For a dierent take on the transcontinental journey, plan a route through the north.
From New York City, head west toward Harrisburg via Philadelphia, but stop
first to explore the idyllic backroads of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Next is Pittsburg, a surprising town of picturesque bridges and green spaces, cutting-edge museums and lively neighborhoods. Enter Ohio by interstate, but quickly step back in time on
a drive through old-fashioned Amish Country. Big-hearted Chicago aka Second City, the
Windy City is the Midwests greatest city. Stroll or bike the lakefront, marvel at famous
artwork and grand architecture, and take a culinary journey amid Chicagos celebrated restaurant scene. Head north to Madison, a youthful green-loving university town.
Detour north to the land of 10,000 lakes (aka Minnesota) for a stop in friendly, arty Minneapolis, followed by a visit to its quieter historic twin, St Paul, across the river.
Return to I-90 and activate cruise control, admiring the corn (and the Corn Palace)
and the flat, flat South Dakota plains. Hit the brakes for the Badlands National Park and
plunge into the Wild West. In the Black Hills, contemplate the nations complex history at
the massive monuments of Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse. Watch mythic gunfights in
Deadwood and learn about Native American culture at Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.
Halfway across Wyoming, cruise into Cody to catch a summer rodeo. Then take in the
wonders of Yellowstone National Park, home to geysers, alpine lakes and waterfalls, with
magnificent wildlife watching. Next, hike past jewel-like lakes and soaring peaks in Grand
Teton National Park. Through rural Montana, the outdoorsy towns of Bozeman and
Missoula make fun stops. Hit the boutique- and cafe scene, enjoy a fabulous meal, then
head o again into the alpine beauty of Glacier National Park followed by a trek through
the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex.
After a few days out in the wild, surprising Spokane is a great place to recharge, with a
pleasant riverfront and historic district sprinkled with enticing eating and drinking spots.
For more cosmopolitan flavor, keep heading west to Seattle, a forward-thinking, eco-minded
city with cafe culture, abundant nightlife and speedy island escapes on Puget Sound. If you
still have time, the region has some great places to explore, including Mt Rainier, Olympic
National Park, and the San Juan Islands.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

BAHAMAS

JERRY ALEXANDER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

STEPHEN SAKS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

(above) Vineyard, Napa Valley (p975)

(left) General store in a small
Texan town

33
CANADA

Rhode
Island

New York
#
#
Philadelphia

Napa Yosemite
Valley National
Nevada

# Park
& Utah
Sequoia
#

#
Kings Canyon
San
Colorado
National Park

Francisco #
Las Vegas Grand Canyon
National Park

#
California

# Taos

#
Santa Fe
Mojave
National Sedona New
Preserve
Arizona Mexico

_ Maryland
Washington DC #

Outer
West Virginia
# Banks
Williamsburg

#
Virginia

# Cape

# Hatteras
North Carolina
Ocracoke
South
Carolina
# Charleston
Georgia
# Savannah
Mississippi
Texas
Alabama
Louisiana

#New
Florida
Austin
# Houston

#
Big Bend #
#
San

#
Orleans
BAHAMAS
National Park
Galveston
Antonio
Island
MEXICO

One Month

Coast to Coast
The Great American road trip: Its been mythologized hundreds of ways. Now live the
dream, driving the length and breadth of the USA. Start in New York City (but hire
a car in cheaper New Jersey) and hit the road. First stop: Philadelphia, a historic
city with a burgeoning food, art and music scene. Continue on to Washington, DC.
The nations capital has a dizzying array of sights, plus great dining (crab feasts, global fare)
and revelry, after the museums close. Continue south through Virginia, taking a detour to
visit the fantastic historic settlement of colonial Williamsburg. Stick to the coast as you
drive south, visiting Cape Hatteras with its pristine dunes, marshes and woodlands. Catch
the ferry to remote Ocracoke Island where the wild ponies run. Further down, take in the
antebellum allure of Charleston and Savannah, two of the souths most captivating destinations. Next its on to jazz-loving New Orleans, with a soundtrack of smokin hot funk
brass bands, and succulent Cajun and Creole food.
The big open skies of Texas are next. Hit the beach at Galveston Island outside Houston. Follow the Mission Trail and stroll the tree-lined riverwalk in thriving San Antonio,
then revel in the great music and drinking scene in Austin. Afterwards, eat your way
through barbecue-loving Hill Country, then walk it o in jaw-dropping Big Bend National
Park. Head north to New Mexico, following the Turquoise Trail up to artsy Santa Fe and
far-out Taos. Roll west to red-rock Sedona, one of Arizonas loveliest and to Native American tribes most sacred places. The awe-inspiring Grand Canyon is next. Stay in the area
to maximize time near this great wonder. Try your luck amid the bright lights of (luck be a
lady tonight?) Las Vegas, then skirt the vast desert wilderness of Mojave National Preserve on your ride into California. From there, its onto the lush towering forests of majestic
Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks in the Sierra Nevada, followed by hiking and
wildlife watching in Yosemite, Californias most revered national park. The last stop is in
hilly San Francisco, an enchanting city spread between ocean and bay with beautiful vistas, world-class dining and bohemian-loving nightlife. If theres time, tack on a grand finale
drinking in the vineyards and gourmet produce of Napa Valley.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

New
York

34

CANADA
Washington
Seattle #
Rainier
Mt
#
National Park

Portland #

Montana

RMt Hood
Sisters R
Bend
#
Crater

Lake #
Oregon
Redwood

#
National & #
Ashland

State Parks #
Arcata
Eureka
#
Lost
Coast

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

PA C I F I C
OCEAN

Idaho
Wyoming

Mendocino #

Napa &

San Francisco #

Sonoma
Valleys

Nevada
Utah

Santa Cruz
#

Monterey #

Big Sur #
California

Hearst Castle #
San Luis Obispo
#

Santa Barbara #
Los Angeles
#
Channel
Islands

San Diego #

Colorado

Arizona

New
Mexico

Three Weeks

The Left Coast

Geographically and politically, the West Coast couldnt be further from Washington,
DC. This is a trip for those who lean left, and who like their nature ancient and wild,
and their horizons and beaches wide-open.
Start in Seattle, taking in sprawling food markets, microbreweries and waterfront
scenery. Heading south, visit Mt Rainier National Park, with superb hiking and relaxing
inns nestled beneath the snow-covered peak. Continue on to the cutting-edge city of Portland, known for its sprawling parks, environmentally minded residents and progressive urbanism plus food carts, coeehouse culture and great nightlife to boot. After your culture
fix, jump into natures bounty by driving east along the Columbia River Gorge. Then turn
south and make for Mt Hood for winter skiing and summer hiking. Further adventures
await in the Sisters, a trio of 10,000ft peaks, and the striking blue waters of Crater Lake.
Catch a Shakespearian play in sunny Ashland, then trade the mountains for the foggy
coast. Enter California via Hwy 199 and take a stroll through the magnificent old-growth
forests in Redwood National & State Parks.
Hug the coast as it meanders south through funky Arcata and seaside Eureka, lose
yourself on the Lost Coast, then catch Hwy 1 through quaint Mendocino whose scenic
headlands and rugged shoreline make for a requisite wander.
Make your way inland to the Napa & Sonoma Valleys for a wash-up and wine tasting
amid rolling vineyards. Then continue south to the romantically hilly, ever free-spirited San
Francisco.
Return to scenic Hwy 1 through surf-loving Santa Cruz, stately bayfront Monterey and
beatnik-flavored Big Sur, where you can get scruy again. In no time youll reach the surreal Hearst Castle and laid-back, collegiate San Luis Obispo.
Roll into Mediterranean-esque Santa Barbara, then hop aboard a ferry in Ventura to
the wildlife-rich Channel Islands. The pull from Los Angeles is strong. Go ahead, indulge
your fantasies of Hollywood then cruise through LAs palm-lined neighborhoods from
Santa Monica to Los Feliz, Beverly Hills to Long Beach. After wracking up a few sins in the
city of Angels, move on down to picture-perfect San Diego, visiting the historic Mission, the
world-famous zoo, and of course those enticing beaches.

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