Starting System
The "starting system", the heart of the electrical system in your
car, begins with the Battery. The key is inserted into
the Ignition Switch and then turned to the start position. A
small amount of current then passes through
the Neutral Safety Switch to a Starter
Relay or Starter Selenoid which allows high current
to flow through the Battery Cables to the Starter
Motor. The starter motor then cranks the engine so
that the piston, moving downward, can create a suction
that will draw a Fuel/Air mixture into the cylinder, where
a spark created by theIgnition System will ignite this
mixture. If the Compression in the engine is high enough
and all this happens at the right Time, the engine will start.
Battery
starter
The automotive battery, also known as a lead-acid storage battery, is an
electrochemical device that produces voltage and delivers current. In an
automotive battery we can reverse the electrochemical action, thereby
recharging the battery, which will then give us many years of service. The
purpose of the battery is to supply current to the
motor, provide current to the ignition system
while cranking, to supply additional current when
the demand is higher than the alternator can supply
and to act as an electrical reservoir.
Ignition Coil
An ignition coil (also called a spark coil) is an induction coil in anautomobile's ignition system which
transforms the battery's low voltage to the thousands of volts needed to create an electric spark in the spark
plugs to ignite the fuel.
Spark Plugs
The spark plug is a seemingly simple device, although it is tasked with a couple of different but critical jobs.
First and foremost, it creates (literally) an artificial bolt of lightning within the combustion chamber (cylinder
head) of the engine. The electrical energy (voltage) it transmits is extremely high in order to create a spark and
to light the fire within the controlled chaos of the combustion chamber. Here, the voltage at the spark plug can
be anywhere from 20,000 to more than 100,000 volts.
Distributor
A distributor is a device in the ignition system of an internal combustion engine that routes high voltage from
the ignition coil to the spark plugs in the correct firing order. It consists of a rotating arm or rotor inside the
distributor cap, on top of the distributor shaft, but insulated from it and the body of the vehicle (ground)
Capacitor
The capacitor has two functions. Its main function is to form a parallel resonant circuit with the ignition coil.[2]
[3]
During resonance, energy is repeatedly transferred to the secondary side until the energy is exhausted.[4] As a
result of this resonance the duration of the spark is sustained and so implements a good flame front in the
air/fuel mixture. The capacitor's second function and consequent on the first, is to minimize arcing at the
contacts at the point of opening by providing an alternative destination for the coil's discha current. This reduces
contact burning and maximizes point life. The Kettering system became the primary ignition system for many
years in the automotive industry due to its lower cost, and relative simplicity.
Contact Breaker
The purpose of the contact breaker is to interrupt the current flowing in the primary circuit of the ignition coil.
When this occurs, the collapsing current induces a high voltage in the secondary winding of the coil, which has
many more windings. This causes a very high voltage to appear at the coil output for a short periodenough to
arc across the electrodes of a spark plug.
Solenoid
Solenoid works as a powerful electric relay. When activated, it closes the electric circuit and sends the battery
power to the starter motor. At the same, the starter solenoid pushes the starter gear forward to mesh it with the
engine flywheel (flex plate) ring gear teeth.
Lighting System
The lighting system of an
automobile comprises of
various lighting and signaling
devices or components fixed to
the front, sides and rear of the
vehicle. Automobile lighting
system has multiple uses and
functions, which are:
It provides illumination
for the driver of a vehicle
to drive safely in dark.
Secondly,
automobile
lights
enhance
the
visibility
of
an
automobile.
Thirdly, automobile lights act as the warning signals. They showcase information about the presence,
position, size, speed and direction of an automotive.
Auxiliary Lights:
Auxiliary Lights are the devices, which are exclusively created to offer long range illumination forward
of the vehicle that improves and increases the visibility of distant objects in the night. These lights are fitted just
above the bumper of an automobile or on its grill. These lights are used along with headlamps to enhance the
visibility of various distant objects coming in contact while driving during nights.
Common types of auxiliary lights are:
Compact lights
Off road lights
Fog lamps/lights
Headlights:
These lighting devices are affixed to the front side of an automobile, whose main function is to light the road
ahead of you. These lights are really powerful and have reflectors as well. Its usage is not only restricted during
nights but can also be used in the foggy conditions as well. Headlights are the intrinsic parts of the vehicle,
which are affixed to the header panel assembly at the front side of your automobile. These lights comprise of
three basic components: reflectors, filament and special lenses that are melded closely in an airtight unit.
Headlights come in variety of shapes, designs, colors, materials and sizes but round is the common shape as it is
easy to manufacture. They are mostly made of plastic, Headlights usually come in pairs and are operated
electronically.
Headlights are categorized as:
Headlight Accessories
Headlight Covers
Tail Lights:
Tail Lights are the lamps, usually covered by a red or translucent body, which are installed at the rear end of an
automobile. Taillights are mounted at the backside of a vehicle and usually come in pairs.
The common types of tail lights are:
Signal Lights or Turn Lights: are usually yellow in color and are used for indicating whether the vehicle is
moving towards left or right.
Reverse lights are installed to warn others about the backing up of the vehicle. Reverse lights switches on
automatically when the driver puts the vehicle in reverse gear.
Park lights are used for warning or signaling the drivers about the presence of another vehicle at the time of
foggy, rainy or dark weather. These lights are also used as brake lights.
Tail Lights are categorized as:
Halogen Tail Lights
Tail Light Covers
Sidelights:
Sidelights are often regarded as directional lights, which are enclosed in a plastic shell or frame and are affixed
to the front side of an automobile. The sidelights are especially designed to improve greater visibility and for
safety.
Interior Lights:
Interior Lights comprises of different types of powerful lighting devices used in the interior portion of a vehicle.
Interior lights mostly consist of key light and instrument displays. Key lights are very powerful mini flashlights
that are installed inside the head of a bow or door lock. While instrument display comprises of small
mechanical devices like dual tachometer, altimeter, air speed, vertical speed indicator, ammeter, engine
instrument cluster used for measuring air, speed, pressure and flow of a fuel in a vehicle.
Interior Lights comprise of:
Dome Light
Key Light
Instrument Displays
Light Accessories:
Light Accessories are the additional components or devices which adds elegance to the interior as well as
exterior of a vehicle. Light accessories include LED lights, Light bars, light covers, lights, lenses, neon lights
and roll bars.
The sub categories of light accessories are:
Led Lights
Light Bars
Light Covers
Lights And Lenses
Neon Lights
Roll Bars
Charging System
Two things are needed to charge a battery. A
voltage source strong enough to move current
through a battery, and time. The more current we
can push into a battery, the faster we can charge
it. Charging at too hight a rate however can
overheat and damage the battery. To reduce the
chances of this happening, charge at a slow rate.
The rate/time a battery recharges also depends
on a couple of factors, how discharged is the
battery and if the battery is cold. Check the
battery temperature during charging. If the
battery is hot to the touch, stop charging
immediately until the battery cools.
PROCEDURE
Preparing to charge
If it is necessary to remove the battery from the vehicle to charge it, always remove the grounded
terminal first. Make sure all of the accessories in the vehicle are off, to prevent arcing.
Be sure the area around to battery is well ventilated while the battery is being charged.
Clean the battery terminals before charging the battery. During cleaning, keep airborne corrosion from
coming into contact with your eyes, nose and mouth. Use baking soda and water to neutralize battery acid
and help eliminate airborne corrosion. Do not touch your eyes, nose and mouth.
Add distilled water to each cell until the battery acid reaches the level specified by the battery
manufacturer. Do not overfill. For a battery without removable cell caps, such as valve regulated l lead-acidbatteries, carefully follow the manufacturer's recharging instructions.
Read, understand and follow all instructions for the charger, battery, vehicle and any equipment used
near the battery and charger. Study all of the battery manufacturer's specific precautions while charging and
recommended rates of charge.
Determine the voltage of the battery by referring to the vehicle owner's manual and make sure that the
output voltage selector switch is set to the correct voltage. If the charger has an adjustable charge rate, charge
the battery in the lowest rate first.
Make sure that the charger cable clips make light connections.
Charger location
Locate the charger as far away from the battery as the DC cables permit.
Never place the charger directly above the battery charged; gases from the battery will corrode and
damage the charger.
Do not set the battery on top of the charger.
Never allow battery acid to drip onto the charger when reading the electrolyte specific gravity or filling
the battery.
Do not operate the charger in a closed-in area or restrict the ventilation in any way.
DC connection precautions
Connect and disconnect the DC output clips only after all of the charger switches to the "off" position
and removing the AC plug from the electrical outlet. Never allow the clips to touch each other.
Attach the clips to the battery and chassis, as indicated below.
FOLLOW THE STEPS WHEN BATTERY IS INSTALLED IN VEHICLE
A spark near the battery may cause a battery explosion. To reduce the risk of a spark near the battery:
Position the AC and DC cables to reduce the risk of damage by the hood, door and moving or hot engine
parts.
Stay clear of fan blades, belts, pulleys and other parts that can cause injury.
Check the polarity of the battery posts. The POSITIVE (POS, P, +) battery post usually has a larger
diameter than the NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -) post.
Determine which post of the battery is grounded (connected) to the chassis. If the negative post is
grounded to the chassis (as in most vehicles), skip to the next step*. If the positive post is grounded to the
chassis, skip to the step after next**.
For a negative-grounded vehicle, connect the POSITIVE (RED) clip from the battery charger to the
POSITIVE (POS, P,+) ungrounded post of the battery. Connect the NEGATIVE (BLACK) clip to the vehicle
chassis or engine block, away form the battery. Do not connect the clip to the carburetor, fuel lines or sheetmetal body parts. Connect to a heavy gauge metal part of the frame or engine block.
**For a positive-grounded vehicle, connect the NEGATIVE (BLCK) clip from the battery charger to the
NEGATIVE (NEG,N, -) ungrounded post of the battery. Connect the POSITIVE (RED) clip to the vehicle
chassis or engine block, away form the battery. Do not connect the clip to the carburetor, fuel lines or sheetmetal body parts. Connect to a heavy gauge metal part of the frame or engine block.
When disconnecting the charger, turn all switches to "off," disconnect the AC cord, remove the clip
from the vehicle chassis and then remove the clip from the battery terminal.
See Calculating Charge Time for length of change information.
FOLLOW THESE STEPS WHEN BATTERY IS OUTSIDE VEHICLE.
A spark near the battery may cause a battery explosion. To reduce the risk of a spark near the battery:
Check the polarity of the battery posts. The POSITIVE (POS, P, +) battery post usually has a larger
diameter than the NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -) post.
Attach at least a 24-inch long 6-gauge (AWG) insulated battery cable to the NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -)
post.
Connect the POSITIVE (RED) charger clip to the POSITIVE (POS, P, +) post of the battery.
Position yourself and the free end of the cable you previously attached to the NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -)
battery post as far away from the battery as possible - then connect the NEGATIVE (BLACK) charge clip to
the end of the cable.
Do not face the battery when making the final connection.
When disconnecting the charger, always do so in the reverse order of the connecting procedure and
break the first connection while as far away from the battery as practical.
A marine (boat) battery must be removed and charged on shore. To charge it onboard requies equipment
specifically designed for marine use.
Testing Batteries
A GOOD battery is one that will accept and hold a charge, and is capable of producing close to its
rated amperage output. A BAD battery is one that will NOT accept or hold a charge, or cannot
produce adequate cranking amps. A GOOD battery can be recharged and returned to service but a
BAD battery needs to be replaced.
Most car batteries only last about 4 to 5 years, so if your battery is 4 or more years older and is not
holding a charge (keeps running down), or it does not seem to crank your engine a normal speed,
you probably need a new battery.
A low or dead battery does not mean your battery has failed, or that it needs to be replaced. A good
battery can run down for any number of reasons: somebody left the lights on, you haven't been
driving your vehicle enough to keep the battery fully charged, your vehicle has been sitting for a
long period of time without being started, there is a problem with the charging system or alternator,
or an electrical problem is draining power from the battery when your car is off.
Procedure:
The only way to know if your battery is GOOD or BAD is to test it. Many auto parts stores will test
your battery for free. If your vehicle is drivable or you can get it going with a jump start, drive to a
nearbyauto parts store that offers free testing and have them test your battery and charging system.
If you can't get your car started, remove the battery and get a friend to give you a ride to the auto
parts store so you can have the battery tested. Many repair shops will also test your battery and
charging system, but they usually charge a fee for this service (some will test your battery for free
or offer to apply their diagnostic fee towards the cost of repair).
CAUTION: Conventional wet cell car batteries are filled with a mixture of water and sulfuric
acid. Wear gloves and handle the battery with care so no liquid spills on your skin or
clothing. Battery acid can cause severe burns. If a spill does occur, wash with plenty of water and
neutralize the acid by applying baking soda.
There are essentially two ways to test a battery. The "old fashioned way" is to use a Load Tester.
For accurate results with a load tester, the battery must first be recharged before it is tested. The
tester applies a calibrated load to the battery (typically half the battery cold cranking amp [CCA]
capacity or three times its amp/hour rating). While the load is applied, the tester monitors battery
voltage. If the battery voltage drops below 9.6 volts during the test, the battery is BAD and needs
to be replaced. If the voltage remains about 9.6 volts, the battery is GOOD and can be returned to
service.
The other (and must faster) method for testing your battery is to use an electronic "conductance"
tester like the one shown here. A conductance tester sends a alternating frequency signal through
the battery to determine the condition of the cell plates inside the battery. As a battery ages, its
internal conductance declines. Shorts, opens and other cell defects also reduce conductance, so
measuring conductance gives an accurate indication of battery condition. The best feature of this
type of test is that the battery does NOT have to be recharged prior
to testing. Most conductance testers will give an accurate reading
even if the battery is almost dead.
Some electronic battery testers can also analyze the battery's CCA
capacity, which can be used to estimate the battery's remaining
service life. Some testers can also measure the amps drawn by the
starter while cranking the engine, and analyze charging system
output under load once the engine is running. Some testers even
provide a built-in voltmeter for checking connections.
Bad Battery Connections
If an electronic tester can calculate the battery/s CCA rating, it can also be used to diagnose bad
ground connections. First the CCA capacity is tested at the battery terminal connections, then again
using a ground point on the engine or elsewhere. More than a 25 percent difference in the CCA
readings between the two tests indicates a bad ground connection.
Diagnostic Tip: You also can use a digital voltmeter to check for voltage drop across all circuit
connections, too. Ideally, you should see less than 0.1 volt drop across a good connection. More
than 0.4 volts drop indicates high resistance and a dirty or loose connection.
Recharge Battery
Whether your battery tests GOOD or BAD, make sure the battery is fully recharged before
returning it to service. The alternator is designed to maintain a battery charge, not to recharge a
dead battery. Overloading the charging system with a dead battery can tax it to the point of where it
may damage the alternator.
Diagnostic Tip: If the alternator on your car has failed, it might mean your battery is not building
up normal resistance as it accepts a charge. This, in turn, makes the alternator keep charging the
battery at a higher than normal rate. This can overload the charging system and lead to premature
alternator failure. The battery charging output should jump about two volts after starting the engine
(14.5 volts or higher), then gradually decrease after the engine has been running for several
minutes (unless the battery is really low). The charging current should likewise taper off to less
than 10 amps at idle (with no lights or accessories on) after five minutes of running. If a fullycharged battery is still pulling 20 or more amps after five minutes of idling, the battery is defective
and needs to be replaced.
Replacement Car Batteries
A replacement battery must have the same post configuration as the original (top post or side post),
and fit the battery tray. Your first order of business, therefore, is to figure out the correct "group
size" for the vehicle.
Next, you have to figure out how many CCAs the vehicle needs for
reliable cold weather starting. The replacement battery should have
the same or higher CCA rating as the original battery. Bigger is
usually better, but keep in mind that some batteries sacrifice "reserve
capacity" to achieve higher CCA numbers.
Another number that is important is the months of prorated warranty
coverage provided by the battery manufacturer. As a rule, the higher
the warranty months on the battery, the higher the battery CCA rating
and the better the battery. So consider upgrading from a basic 36month replacement battery to a premium 72-month battery.
There are also differences in battery technology and design. Though all automotive batteries today
are still based on lead-acid chemistry, redesigned grids, thinner plates and new connectors allow
more amps to be packaged into smaller cases. Some new batteries use a "spiral wound" cell
configuration instead of flat plates to achieve a higher packaging density, more power output and
increased durability.
Some batteries also use a "gel" electrolyte or "recombination" technology that replaces the liquid
acid. Some have "absorbent glass mat" (AGM) separators between the plates that hold the acid
much like a paper towel soaks up water, making the battery "spill-proof" even if the case is
punctured. AGM technology also makes batteries more resistant to vibration damage and helps
extend battery service life.
Parts
Sources: http://www.automotive-online.com/lighting-system/
https://www.pepboys.com/parts/batteries/diy_charging/
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us20310.htm
