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Copyright © 2006 by Peter Adams. All rights reserved.
Photographs and drawings by author unless otherwise
noted.
Published in 2006 by
‘Timber Press, Tne
‘The Haseltine Building
133 S.W, Second Avenue, Suite 450
Porlland, Oregon 97204-3527
wavw-timberpress.com
2-The Quadrant
135 Salusbury Road
London NW6 6RJ
wwwtimberpress.co.k
Second printing 2010
Designed by Susan Applegate
Printed through Coloreralt Ltd, Hong Kong
Library of Congress Cataloging-in- Publication Data
Adams, Peter D.
Bonsai with Japanese maples/Peter Adams.— [2nd ed. |
pen.
Innlules inde.
ISBN-13: 978-0-88192-809-9
1. Bonsai, 2, Japanese maple. I. Title.
'$h433.5.4287 2006
635.97772-de22
2006013486
A catalog record for this bookis also available from the
British LibraryPreface &
Acknowledgments 9
CHAPTER ONE Care and Selection of Japanese Maples 11
Acer palmatum, Japanese Maple 11
Acer buergerianum, Trident Mapke 14
Preferences as Bonsai 15
CHAPTER TWO Bonsai De
‘lopment Methods 30
Developing ‘Tinks: The Basic Structure 30
Fast Trunk Development: Trunks with Large Diameter 34
Development in Boxes: Slimmer Trunks but with Character 39
Layering Methods 42
Making Groups 46
Creating Raft Trees 50
Root Over Stone Trees 52
CHAPTER THREE Refinement Techniques 57
Scar Refinement: Trunks 57
Scar Refinement: Roots 59
Enhancing Roots 61
Coymetic Grafting 62
Root Grafting 63
CHAPTER FOUR Developing Small Specimen Maples 65
Shohin 65
Summary of Fast Trunk “Beginnings” 67
6aa
You have either reached a page that is unavailable for viewing or reached your viewing limit for this
book.Tam writing this book in response to literally hundreds of requests from
bonsai enthusiasts over the years who could not find a copy of the first
edition.
Readers will recognize some themes from the original book though these
reflect a more current approach. Here the developmental process has been
simplified and emphasis placed on the practical steps involved in leading
“finished” bonsai towards the next levels of refinement.
There is however a deliberate mix of bonsai at different stages in their
training, so the less experienced person can also identify with less completed
trees and hopefully find some ideas to help him/her also evolve.
Iris not a beginner's book; there are enough of those out there. I
honest attempt to look at bonsai as art objects and to critique and assess
them from an artist’s perspective. If you gain some small insights here and
there, I shall be delighted.
is anaa
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book.Close up, spring color of Acer palmatum ‘Seigen’.
Typical ‘Seigen’ maple from Japan potted in red soil. Close up of interesting damaged trunk.
Photo by Kate Adams. Photo by Kate Adams.
and Selection of Japanese Maplesaa
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book.of soil removed from between the main surfaced
roots. This is normally carried out only on well-
established trees with a solid root pad. The dwarf
cultivars with their dense root and branch growth
often need this treatment.
Repotting frequency
Young trees are repotted
two to three years.
‘Older trees can probably go another year. Watch.
for declining vigor. Signs of declining are early
autunmn coloring, water draining suggishly and
dieback of some finer twigs. Because of their
dense growth, dwarf cultivars should be repot-
ted every two years or x0, Repot ay the buds swell
in spring,
Root rot
Check also for any desiccation of branches thar
shows up as indented wrinkled lines in the bark
running in parallel lines along the limb. These
lines are usually signs of root rot and if found,
extra care should be taken 10 cleanse the roots,
Plant the tree in the light mix or even pure gravel,
using a large wooden box raised well off the
ground forair flow. Until roots can grow again
normally, they may be helped by watering with a
vitamin B1 solution. Place the tree in shade and
delay watering again until the soil is dryish, then
repeat the vitamin BI treatment. IFthe treatment
hasbeen successful, new growth should appear in
about four weeks or so, Optimum time for treat-
ment is spring, but if outside of this period, pot-
ting the tree up into a large wooden box with
ultra fast draining soil, will offen save it. Think of
the treeas a big cutting that needs support until
the roots appear
Soil
Japanese
well-drained soil with mixed sand. The choice of
gravel texture has a prime role in determining the
nd trident maples grow bestin o light,
16. Care and Selection of Japanese Maples
nature of both roots and branches. Smooth gravel
particles allow the root tips to pass smoothly ere-
ating strong and undivided root growth. Contact
with weathered or coarse gravel particles causes
a cutting action and root tips divide and mul-
tiply. These two conditions are echoed in the
branch growth above. So with maples, ifa mix
ture of smooth and rough particles is combined
ir will encourage the formation of vigorous but
diverse branching that shows progressively finer
lines with each successive division of root growth:
80% smooth aquarium type grav
to 20% rough
textured gravel would bi
a good proportion for
y be
varied to suit local conditions, bur should make
the total gravel mix. The organi¢ material m
up 40-60% ofthe whole. Sieve the ingredients
which must be perfectly dry. You are aiming for
an overall particle size of match head plus. Grip a
handful of the wel-stirred soil and if it sticks to-
gether, add more aquarium gravel. All fine pow-
der must be removed. Remember the grip test
and add more mixed sand as necessary
sou atx
5 parts mixed sand (sce below)
2 parts trade brand soil-less compost, like
composted peat
2 parts leaf mold + peat, or fir bark
1 part fine pumice (lava rock)
2 parts fine grade aquarium gravel
2 parts coarse textured gravel or decomposed
nite
2 parts grit + sand
Grip a handful of the well stirred soil and ifit
sticks together, add more aquarium gravel. This is
typical of the soil mix used by my Japanese bon-
sai supplier of 30 years, Fukukaen of Nagoya.
‘The old ‘Seiger’ (Tree 13) and raft trident (Tree
9) shown in Chapter Five were imported from Fu
{as the firm was known then in the ’60s and 70s),
and were found to be growing in a mix of 7 partsaa
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book.Plan view of branch before thinning— Plan view of branch after thinning.
redundant growth shown in red.
Profile of branch after thinning.
20. Care and Selection of Japanese Maplesaa
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book.After shortening a pronounced
change of direction appears in
the branch. Photo by Kate Adams.
The tree after grooming is
completed. Photo by Kate Adams.
Stimulating budding from
heavy trimmed terminals
showing the first cut.
After a period of growth
the second cut is made
close to the replacement
shoot shown in red.
24 Care and Selection of Japanese Maplesaa
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book.ported. You will soon see recurring themes and
solutions that work well and ifthese please
Ou,
they can betaken as a base on which to build your
own choices of porand even to train your tree.
Diseases
TAR SPOT Symptoms: The appearance of large
black spors with yellow zones. T:
spor can occur
swith warm spring weather, or late in summer
when temperatures and humidity are high and
the leaves are not well ventilated.
Tre
reduce leaf bulk by pruning to admit more air. El-
ment: Spray with copper fungicide and
evate the tree to encourage air circulation. Moni-
tor soil watering and refrain from watering the
leaves.
MILDEW. Symptoms: Whitish gray are:
con leaves and twigs and the tree develops a tired
appear
and wilted appearance. There are wet and dry
forms of mildew
‘Treatment: Remove and burn damaged leaves.
Improve ventilation. Elevate the tree and if neces:
sary meve its location to an aitier spot. Spray with
a broad spectrum fungicide, Also clean down and
spray the adjacent growing benches and area.
CORAL SPOT Symptoms: Masses of pink dots like
pinhead-sized pods appear on dead timber. The
danger is that live tissue can become infected,
leading to di
dead wood killed by frost. Live branches wilt as
ack. The fungus often invades
a
the fiungus chokes their water vessels
Clean out dead areas and prune
back to sound wood, spray with fungicide and
seal all euts with good quality wound paint, Ven=
Treatment
tilate well and use vitamin BI as a root support-
ing agent.
GRAY MOLD Symptoms: Light gray fuzzy mold
appears on buds, twigs and leaves. Wilting dis-
28 Care and Selection of Japanese Maples
colored leaves and die-back of shoots and twigs
often follows.
‘Treatment: Cut out all affected growth. Be
careful to clean off old leaves in winter as these,
if still attached, can rot and enable the gray molel
to attack fine twigs and branches, Seal all pruned
tissue with Lac Balam or a similar quick drying
wound paint of sympathetic color. Try to avoid
tar based paints as these look very obvious fora
long time, but if you must use tar lor any reason,
the obnoxious shiny black can be painted over
with artist acrylic paint, blended to match the
bark color. Ma
ain good light and ventilation.
Move crowsled plants apart and guard
cessive moisture,
Pests
APHIDS Symptoms: Round bulbous insects
about 2mm [Yioin,] in size infesting new shoots
and the backs of leaves. Aphids may be green,
brown or black. Look for sticky honeydew and
black mold it attracts on the shoots and leaves
and check for ants. Aphids are likely to appear in
spring and throughout the growing season. They
are quite mobile,
‘Treatment: Spray with systemic insecticide.
Cigarette butts steeped in soft soap can make a
mild nicotine spray ifthe solids are filtered and
n added to water
SCALE INSECTS Symptoms: Scale insects resem
ble flattish or domed pods and vary in size and
form. ‘They usvally range in size between 1-3mm
[!25-Vs in], but can be larger. Colors vary but
brown is common, All scales are quite mobile and
females are identifiable by their white egg sacs
Seale is most wonderful at natural camouflage
and the varieties are limitless and plant specific
Be cautious. They are sap suckers and again pro-
duce abundant honeydew as with aphids, Leaves
can yellow substantially in dappled areas. Theaa
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book.aa
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book.August pruning to create
step two in the trunk and to
shorten the first branch.
to look believable as a tapered step in the teunk
Then upper buds are chosen to become the new
trunk line and companion shoots are left on for
fattening. The August pruning forms step two in.
trunk development.
Ifthe new trunk extension is not thick enough,
to work convincingly as a tapered step in the
trunk, a second or even a third growing year may
be needed, but it is worth the wait. If the tree is.
developed in a balanced fashion right from the
start, a very pleasing result is almost guaranteed.
But, ifthe tree is eagerly pinched back in the rush
to form the bonsai over the same period, the
thickening process slows right down and after the
same three year period has passed, the original
lower trunk and new trunk line will still display
too great a difference of thickne
Ifthe new trunk line is to be pruned, make
sure to prune above pairs of buds and twigs creat-
inga new trunk section which is shorter than that
of the lower trunk. The idea isto make a zigzag,
cly smaller intervals between
form with succe:
them and the branch planes they support.
Year two
‘New buds erupt from the trunk in the spring
Allow several buds to grow round the base of
the cut for step two. These should be allowed to
32. Bonsai Development Methods
1 In the spring the new
upper shoots grow away
developing step three.
develop freely as they body-build the wood and
fatten it faster. Wire the new growth on the first
branch after it has made four pairs of leaves and
allow it to develop as described before. When
wiring the new growth on the branch, the new
lines are encouraged to spread sideways and begin
the process of building the branch plane. The
terminal shoots are developed to create the next
ted when the ter-
trunk section, Step three is eres
minals are pruned in August.
FIRST BRANCH The new growth on the first
branch may be trimmed afer amonth or so taking,
the lines back closero the wired area. New buds
will develop again and these are treated in the
same fashion and once again spread sideways, The
process will probably be repeated twice or three
times if growth permits before growth is short
ened back in August. Check and remove all tight
wires and remove wires altogetherin August.
NEW TRUNK LINE The new trunk lineis cither
to be growa-on without pruning or has been
pruned back in August of year one. Ifit is to be
grown-on the following process is carried out
when the desired girth has been attained and not
before. Upper buds become the new trunk line
and companion shoots are left on for fattening.aa
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book.YEAR TWO In late winter look at the tree and
work out which of the shoots is going to form the
new trunk line. Always leave a couple of com-
panion shoots in case the selected one fails to
grow. Trim the others shorter but do not remove
them alrogether—they are sacrificial branches and
allowing them to grow away strongly each year
ensures.a general fattening of the base. They will
ultimately be sacrificed but are one of the keys to
rapid trunk expansion. Seal all cuts. Light trim-
ming means that buds will start up again after a
brief delay, whereas heavy pruning always slows
growth right down. Remove the polythene tent
after frosts are over. Feed and water the tree and
do not prune the new growth. Switch to
0-10-10 formula fertilizer in July and August.
By the end of the summer, there should be a
pronounced increase in trunk girth and basal
flare. The clusters of companion and sacrificial
branches constantly build the lower trunk as they
grow rapidly, and the echoing rapid expansion of
Iateral roots also pulls the trunk base outwards,
Tapia
snope top
gowthwins —/ kT
protective film :
S RL
‘Trident maples will often exhibit strong surface
jing of the trunk where a direct vascular line
shows up as a prominent rib connecting root and
trunk and this of course adds a pleasing age to the
image. Finally, reduce the length of the
shoots so they fit and replace the polythene tent.
car two
Seal all cuts.
YEAR THREE In late winter check how the trunk
developing. Ifit has performed well, the tree
needs transplanting in March, If the tree is slow,
in thickening, delay transplanting until year four.
In March after the buds break, lift and root
prune the tree lightly. Prune back plunging roots
at the point where they slide over the tile and
head off downwards. Make sure these hea
ier
root cuts face upwards so the water runs off them.
‘Trim the sacrificial branches back harder than be-
fore, but maintain about 2.5em [1 in.] at the base
rather than trimming flush. This promotes fur-
ther compound budding. Seal cuts
‘The new trunk Line ean be built up as a zig-
Strong shoots
have formed.
The same tree with roots spread on a tile and planted in a box.
36 Bonsai Development Methodsaa
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book.aa
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book.trunk steps should diminish steadily up the tree,
so any cut that is made must be followed by one
that creates a shorter step and so on, A.shobin tree
for example might have: lower trunk line 7.5em
[3 in; step one might be Sem [2 in.}; step two,
2.5cm [1 in.J; step three, 1.25em [0.5 in.Jand
other steps closer together.
Once y
paint code the tree for later pruning but do nor
out have decided on where to prune,
prune or disturb the tree, Feed and water as for
year one and over winter as before
Year three
In March lift the tree as the buds break, Re-
move the ties securing the tree on the tile and
root prune the tree. Afier all the roots have been,
sorted out and their tips trimmed or they have
been shortened back as appropriate, replant the
tree over the tike and spread the roots out as radi-
ally as possible, Prune the shoots as indicated by
the paint code and seal the cuts before watering in.
This prevents the tree from weeping. This cut ere
ates the length of step one and fixes the location
ofthe second branch, Water in and after a month
resume feed schedules,
In June the first branch is shortened back to
promote lateral growth and inner budding. The
Year three, March—
tree is root pruned
40. Bonsai Development Methods
£
Strong shoots develop. ‘\ Ps .
Redundant material
is pruned.
Shoots are wired
and pruned.aa
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book.aa
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book.The plantis detached
and the stump is
cleaned up.
Producing a root
connected tree.
Prune the plant
hard.
The plant is potted
into a large clay pot.
The tree pro-
duces many
strong shoots.
The treeis
protected
over winter.
44 Bonsai Development Methodsaa
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book.Greater distance can be implied by using really
small and simple trees to the back of the over-
all planting, Foreground trees should be alto-
gether bolder and multi-tiered thereby increasing
the power of the illusion. These additional plants
are added one by one, considering the effect of
cach trunk line and making fine adjustments to
its situation. Once their roots are spread over the
screen, they are quickly twist tied into place and
the effect is checked again. In bringing trunks
closely together it may well be necessary to shave
away roots to promote the trunks fusing together
and the trunks may even in addition be tied to-
gether to keep them close,
As the trunks are secured to the location grid,
avoid placing them so one totally blocks the view
The planted grid
is transferred toa
shallow box.
48. Bonsai Development Methods
of another. Two slightly overlapping trunks seen
from the preferred viewing angle is fine and may
be used to thicken the apparent visual weight of
trunk or to add occasional ac
nts throughout the
group, but avoid a mechanical placement like sol-
diers on a parade ground. Even the ground plan
can feature mounds, to add emphasis to the major
trees
Add more dry soil mix and check for elevation
of the trees and add soil to raise the grid at these
points if'necessary, When the planting looks satis-
factory, the grid itself may be twist tied into place
With the wire coming through the drainage holes.
‘Take care to apply even tension across the grid to
prevent it slewing or tilting inappropriately. Fill
in with soil mix and contour mounds as desiredaa
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book.Root Over Stone Trees
This technique offers some of the most exciting
images for bonsai maples, The idea comes from
the appearance of trees with exposed root systems
Se
vere weather and sometimes seismic activity may
often found growing in mountainous terrain
have heaved the roots up leaving them draped
over rocks where they remain after lighter mat-
ter has been eroded and washed away. A lot of fun
may be had visualizing different images: a soft
meadow tree with its roots over a roundish stone,
a group over a stone, a raftor root connected tree
over a stone and so on.
First gather and match your materials together.
Like most bonsai, the effect will be berter and the
project will be more satisfying and go more eas-
ily if the subject is studied pictorially beforehand.
Looking at and studying pictures is like using a
sketchbook, itis a way of getting inside the prob-
Jem and perhaps understanding better where the
design is g
1g. Knowing about, or at least being
aware of, combinations of line and mass that
work pleasingly together is to be almost there in
terms of being able to identify elements ina nice
design
So use the mental pictorial imagery you have
gained fo assemble the trees and stones and your
ideas will be related t good combinations and
that will build your confidence. Assembling the
right materials will tell you how far from or near
to being possible your idea really is!
Stones
In general terms you are looking for a stone or
rock ofa given shape, perhaps suggesting a clift
or eroded escarpment. You may even want it to
have an
nbedded ribbon of quartz symboliz-
ing a waterfall. The texture should be somewhat
weathered, but not particularly rough. Fissures
and creases are attractive and some, but not all (it
52. Bonsai Development Methods
is important not to mask too many of the stone’s,
natural features when planting the tree) may be
used as future pathways for the roots. Stones in
muted gray tones are pleasing and do not com-
pete for attention with the tree, The idea is to cre-
ate a unity of elements without one hero fighting
for cent
stage. Do not use stones that are soft
as these will crumble under the cramping of the
roots which really act like wooden muscles once
the tree is established over the stone.
Meadow tree designs, groups and raft-like
designs look pleasing planted over stones with
strongly horizontal movement. A metamorphic
rock, with a smooth surface suggests a tranquil
feeling in keeping with the mood of the planting.
“These may also show a quartz stream or waterfall
to add to the image.
‘Some stones may need slicing with a diamond
saw to stand at the desired angle. Others may be
chiseled or ground flat to stabilize them. The im-
portant thing is to make sure itis stable before
planting is begun.
ie
“KX
A suitable rack
is selected.
‘An appropriate tree
is found.aa
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book.all sorts of images of 1
planting develops some of these suggested quali-
ties can be worked into the design. A grove on a
rocky escarpment is one, trees rooted over and
in the wild, and as the
growing alonga stone wall is another—the list is,
endless.
The cushioned plant
and roots are secured
over the stone,
The tree after ten
years’ development.
56 Bonsai Development Methodsaa
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book.their counterparts in the branches and this makes
balancing the structure that much more difficult.
A technique that works under these circum
stances is to redirect the energy from the over-
thick root lines by pruning them shorter. First
rotate the tree and identify those roots that are
dominating the others, then lift the tree, comb
out the roors and cut the strong, ones back, mak:
ing cuts that taper down fiom the trunk to the
soil. Seal the cuts.
As the outer root portion is removed, look for
younger surfaced roots growing out from the
The root base on the tree is
good but come of the surfaced
roots are too heavy.
The heavy lines are pruned.
After pruning the
wounds are sealed to
retain moisture.
60. Refinement Techniques
sides of the shortened root. These will take the
place ofthe heavy root and correct the appear-
ance of the surfaced root formation. Transplant
the tree and after a year orso the scars should be
almost healed—certainly so in the case of trident
maples that heal very quickly. Very large cuts may
take another year to finally heal over.
Variations on this technique can be used to
correct the scars left by the removal of most aber-
rant root formations
ial roots and so on,
suchas crossing roots, aer~aa
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book.The bare place is now covered with
pleasing surfaced roots.
64 Resnement'Techniques
As the young material fattens up it grafts itself
into place just like the thread grafted branches. In
this case, approach graf
ng just means bringing
a branch either back on itself or to another place
on the tree for cosmetic reasons and allowing it to
grait to the tree wherever needed
The new root/seedling-eutting may also be
attached using the groove method mentioned in
thread grafting to locate and position its angle
and growth direction. Drawing pins may be used
as with the branches to se
c the grafts. Allow
at least a two year period before removing the top
growth. In that time the graft will have Knit it
self strongly and will send water and food to the
branches like the more established roots,aa
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book.‘Shohin trident maple after some thinning out. Photo _The tree is potted in very open sandy soil. Photo by
by Kate Adams, Kate Adams:
Another shohin maple after wiring in early spring,
Photo by Kate Adams,
The following spring the tree is repotted. Photo by
kate Adams.
68 Developing Small Specimen Maplesaa
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book.rim of each saucer. This enables you to spread the
roots and to locate them. Thin out minor roots:
spread over the saucer in the way used for tree
over stone root selection, but cut no others. Re-
plant with fresh soil
YEAR THREE Continuc to develop squat trunk
bases by growing the trees on and allowing the
lateral roots to expand freely. Reduce the height
of the trees a little in August of the third year,
Che
shoots/trunk lines back to those points. Seal the
cuts.
k for low side branches and trim the upper
YEAR FOUR Transplant the saucer and tree units
as the buds break. Untie the roots round the
edges of the saucers. Break the saucers and re-
move the shards. There will be an upper and
lower root system. Remove the lower roots if the
upper roots are strong and dense enough to sup-
port the tree. Inot, prune the lower roots short
and replant with fresh soil.
Ifthe upper roots are well grown and radially
placed, any traces of the heavy lower roots can
be pruned off. Replant the tree back in the box
with fresh soil. Concentrate on building trank
and branch forms in this final year of really free
Year three—the trunk is pruned in August.
72 Developing Small Specimen Maples
‘Year five—the transplanted tree
with its powerful trunk.aa
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book.TRIDENT MAPLE
Group
Height: 63cm [25 in]
Age: supposedly 40 years—realistically 10 years!
Root establishment
The group was imported in 1982 from Fukukacn,
in Nagoya. It was potted into the present bigger
buff glazed pot, measuring 59 x 36 x 4em [23 x
15 x 2.5 in] in 1987,
Trunk development
The group was started from cuttings and a
commarlike ground plan placement used to site
the trunks. Standard grow-wire-chop techniques
had been employed to produce tall trees with nice
Winter 1985. Photo by Jonathon Harrison.
76
branching. The group was fed freely from 1982~
87 in an effort to maintain progress.
REACTION Ir would have becn better to increase
the pot size immediately but to use the milder
feeding regimes suggested. This would have
helped trunk development and branches develop
evenly, without excessive coarsening of the
growth,
Branch development
Branches were wired out flat to correct the
slightly ascending lines given them in Japan prior
‘Summer 1986. Notice the difference to the branch
arrangement. Photo by Jonathon Harrison.aa
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book.Tree in 2004
‘The new owner of the tree has done a geeat job
over the last 20 years! The trees reversed from
its original position and this gives a better appre~
ciation of the natural trunk formation—which
is anything bur natural of course, but rather the
result of careful and ongoing eare, and the twig
display is now restored to its full glory as the
most enjoyable aspect of a fine winter-viewing
tree.
‘The roots and trunk flare are also working
better now and there is significant gripping of the
stone to the right, while at the left, the roots are
beginning t0 web on the surface
‘The oval potis by Gordon Dufete and its form
Tree in 2004, Photo by Bill Jordan,
80
and color are very well suited to the proportions
and design of the bonsai.
Future directions
If the lower left branch is redirected so its new
position moves inwards towards the trunk, it will
shorten it to the left and in the process appear to
make the middle left hand branch mass longer.
‘The branch also needs lowering and broadening
so its plane contributes to a more diversified unity
in the negative space to the left of the trunk, cre~
ated between the surfaced roots, trunk line and
the first branch. Moving this branch also elevates
the main part of the middie left branch complex
and emphasizes those gnarly and fabulous rising
lines.
‘The same left middle portion also needs a little
more extension to the left, so that its lower lines
can extend far enough to swing upwards and
align their peripheries with the general line of the
branch plane. Think oft like an arm of a candela-
bra
Following the same logic, the upper part of
the branch system to the left, if also extended and
raised, will broaden the uppermost peripheral
line and make the head appear flatter. The simple
wide dome will add a lot to the form of the tree,
A few negative windows cut here and there in
the twiggy mass of upper branching, particularly
close to the trunk, willadd contrast and natural
interest to the mass.
Projected time scale
Taken slowly, the changes can be made in five
years.aa
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book.Root establishment
“The tree was established for two years in open
sandy soil using a temporary bonsai container
REACTION I imported this tree in 1981 at a quoted
age of 15
of writing. I was always taken with the image
of the Katos’ tree in Mansei-en, their nursery in
‘Omiya, and each shipment of trident maples that
came in was carefully checked for one with a simi-
lar basic form. [ eventually selected this one and
then commissioned Gordon Duffett to make a pot
resembling the Japanese original, but with his own
twist given to it, In the end he made a number of
pots in that shape and glave of differing sizes.
years, making it 39 years old at the time
Trunk development
Little development ws
REACTION The existing, crunk form was close
enough to that of the model Japanese tree to serve
as an easy foundation for the desired shape.
necessary,
Branch development
‘The branches were built very fast, taking fall
advantage of the tremendous growth rate of the
species
REACTION I should have built the branches at my.
usual slow rate of Sem [2 in.] per year in lateral
spread. But instead, each time the new growth ex-
ceeded four pairs of leaves, the initial shor section
was wired and curved and then was allowed to
spread freely. Once enough shoot thickness devel-
oped, the shoots were pruned back but left quite
long. Then the nest flush of growth grew unwired.
and was cut back, alowed to grow and was wired
and so on, but in my impatience Ter the branches
grow too fast and they never developed tapered
character.
Thad hours of relaxed fian trying to refine the
outline of the tree, following the photograph and
trying to make it doser to the original. The evalu
ating process is fascinating and teaches you a lot
abour how the artist shaped his tree and that really
‘was the important thing. Eventually I managed
to achieve a pretty good facsimile of my Favorite
tree. It looked acceptable in leaf, but in winter, the
branch planes looked roo evenly curved and hat
no real structure.
Root development
‘The root pad was firm enough to support the
heavy trunk in two years but the lack of minor
surfaced roots was bothersome,
REACTION Work was begun on raising small roots
to the surface at each repotting and these gradu-
ally added some credible infrastructure to the root
base.
Tree in 1985
‘The picture taken in summer shows the tree at
an interesting stage in its development, but as I
said before, the glimpses of the infrastructure of
the branches reveals really thin lines. The tree isaa
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book.Future directions Projected time scale
‘More fullness in the branch planes coupled with Maybe three years from the stage in the photo-
a slight reduction in heightas the apex blendsin graph,
better will make this deceptively simple tree into a
wonderful example of an elegant trident maple.
The tree in three years.
aaa
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book.‘Summer 2005. Photo by Kate Adams.
‘The progress shot taken in August 2004 shows
where the middle left branch was removed so the
evolving second trunk could occupy its position.
‘The new trunk will be grown 10 feel like part of
the general branch formation, but will have more
visual weight and structural importance in the
design,
Root development
‘The surfaced roots are already quite good, but
are buried just now to encourage thickening of
their lateral lines. The technique of shortening
the lower roots and leaving the top ones to spread.
will quickly build better trunk flare as the sur-
faced roots form their buttress-like connection
with the trunk. The webbing process of the sur-
98
faced rootsis one of the most enjoyable character-
istics of trident maples and is easy to encourage
and great fun to watchin development.
Future directions
‘The branch lines ate full and spreading and per-
haps point towards the choice of alonger pot to
provide a wider visual platform for the spreading
trunk base. The present pot will better suit a tree
with less branch spread
Projected time scale
Ir will take at least five years for the branches to
achieve the desired spread (ar the controlled rate
of Sem [2 in.] per year) and enough thickness for
them to balance with the strong trunkaa
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book.Winter close up
2004, Pheto by
Bill Jordan.
103aa
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book.away freely after having been wired in the first of
three grow-vire-chop cycles carried out in the
second and subsequent years.
‘The second picture was taken in the winter of
1986-87 and shows how once they were pruned
way back in August, the branches emerged as
fledgling tree trunks. The planting was developed
exactly as described earlier in the text.
Root development
‘The neyt step to consider was how much, if any,
of the original root ball to retain. There were
new surfaced roots growing all along the sides of
the trunk and combined, these equaled ifnot es:
eceded the mass of feeder roots still coming from
the original base root system.
Having thought about the options, I decided.
to reduce the vestigial knob of the old root base
that still looked awkward. I sawed it shorter and
hollowed it out to look like old natural damage.
With this very strong lamp removed, the tree
trunk nearest the old base was really developed
and created more relative perspective through the
design.
Future directions
‘The tree tilted to resemble the previous tree! It
could be a lot of fun to reconstruct this design
from an earl
Projected time scale
About 20 years, So he
be looking pretty good by now, Has anyone se
iv?!
2005, that tree should
107aa
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book.JAPANESE MAPLE
‘eigen’ informal upright
Height: 63cm [25 in.]
Trunk diameter: 7.5em [3 in]
Age in 1970: 80 years
Root establishment
This “Scigen’ maple was imported ftom Fu in
1971. Unwrapping the root ball revealed fabulous
roots and showed it to be another tree grown in
the 70% sand to 30% light organic material mix
I put together the same type of soil using 70%
mised sand, 10% peat, 15% leaf mold and 5%
loam. The tree was planted in the gray rectangle
picture from Japan
Jit greenhouse or shed until
shown in the original offerir
and placed in a wel
the frosts were well past.
Offering picture from Fukukzen dated 1970.
112
Trunk development
‘The original pot measured 45cm [18 in.] and over
the years the tree was transferred into progres-
sively larger pots until it was planted in a 95cm.
[37in,] Japanese containerin 1980. The trunk
form and it sits very
form has a pleasing slow §
well on the root base. The upper part of the trunk
shows old damage at the point where it abruptly
changes disection. This indicates the original top
of the tree was lost and there is a cement filled
cavity to the rear of the new right facing upper
trunk,
In 1980, the trunk diameter had slowly in-
creased to 10cm [4in.] as a result of giving the
tree lateral root run and pruning the lower roots
more heavily than the surfaced ones. The increase
was in no way & response to the chosen feeding
program,
REACTION ‘The fertilizing program used early on
‘was inappropriate I realize now but it was fol-
lowed in an attempt to try and restrain the heavy
top growth, now known to be typical of Seigen’
After this period 1 used different feeding combi-
nations and this early experimentation led to the
triple fertilizer program I now use and have ex-
plained earlier.
Ie was not easy caring for an old specimen of a
variety largely unknown in cultivation at that time,
‘There was certainly nobody in Europe to ask and
so little by litle I fitted things together and cameaa
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book.reasonably light humidity, The air flow must be
good bur not a howling draft. The key factor is to
provide these conditions until the tree has set its
first flush of leaves as the tree is rery susceptible to
damage arising from buds being brushed, wind
bumt, insect attack and frost—all of which pro-
duce the same result: coal black shriveled leaves.
Ifthe tree suffers such damage, the restoration of
the plant to a place with the listed conditions, the
removal of all damaged tissue and diluted feeds
with half strength Miracle-Gro will recover the
tree.
Root development
‘Work in exposing the root flare has revealed sur-
faced roots extending way beyond the measurable
trunk base of 25cm [10 in]. The strong growth
of the surfaced roots and the flare produced
makes a base with a total spread exceeding 46cm
[18:in.] seem reasonable,
The tree is planted in a much deeper con
tainer (made specially for me by Bryan Albright)
to build up the root pad and strengthen the
‘Summer 1994. Photo
by Jonathan Harrison.
116
branches after the tree sustained damage when
it left my old garden in Surrey. For a brief period
the tree was grown under very different condi
tions, leading to both winter and summer prob-
lems,
‘The tree may easily be controlled and restored.
as the picture reconds—even ifthe worst hap:
pens—by utilizing the factors described under
Placement. All ‘Seigen’ needs as bonsai is sym-
pathetic observation so that the grower is aware
‘of problems and reacts to them before they reach
chronic levels
Future directions
If the lower right branch wer
the middle right branch lowered slightly, a more
asymmetrical form is created. So treated, the
plant will achieve superb balance.
cto be removed and
Projected time scale
Te will take about three years to reach the form ex-
pressed in the drawing,aa
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book.JAPANESE MAPLE
Informal twin trunk
Height 62.5em [25 in.]
‘Trunk diameter: 75em [3 in]
Root base: 22.5cm [9 in]
‘Age: approximately 20 years
Root establishment
‘One ofa large batch of seedlings developed in
the ground in Canada the tree was imported into
America in spring 2000. Itwas selected in the
pre
the tre
jious winter from a field when the bases of
were covered with soil and leaf debris,
so the status of the roots was uncertain.
Straight from the field! ‘The soil in the plastic
pot was 90% heavy field clay and alittle bon-
sai mix was added around the ball. I washed the
Winter 2000—the tree as imported from Canada.
Photo by Kate Adams.
120
roots off and found a massive lump of knobby,
twisted roots originating from when the tree had.
been planted in the ground without any untan
gling and radial placement of the surfaced roots,
so Thad to removea number of the heaviest and
most malformed roots. I prepared an open, light
sandy soil of the usual type and planted the tree
in a Gordon Duffett pot, generously carried over
to the States and given me by my old friends Jim.
and Mat
.arural fir and the tree rapidly generated a real
y MeCurrach. The tree and pot wi
root paul
Trunk development: winter 2002
A record shot taken in gray light during a styl
ing session. ‘The tree has been drastically reduced
in general outline. I rorated it many times before
choosing this angle. The trunk has not much,
taper and in an effort to alleviate this a little, the
highest part was removed and an upper branch
loosely wired up into an apical position to create
movement anda step in the taper.
Trunk development: winter 2003
‘The posture ofthe trunk is improved. I inclined
it more to the left in the last repot and while still
lacking conspicuous taper, the eye somehow for-
gives this now that there is more flow in the line.
Note where the branch scars have been tinted
with a
cylic paint to match the bark.aa
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book.Summer 1985. The tree before trimming.
Photo by Jonathon Harrison.
Summer 1993. The tree before trimming.
Photo by Kate Adams.
The tree 10 minutes later.
Photo by Jonathon Harrison.
Trimmimg. Photo by Kate Adams.
125aa
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book.Root establishment
“This tree was imported from Japan in 2002
From the drawing, the roots appear to be fairly
compacted, but the pot is big enough to have pro
vided some support until the tree can be repotted
in spring 2005.
In terms of looks, the brown oval containers
nor bad in general form, but itis a touch too shal-
low. Whena wide base is placed against such a
thin line, an unfortunate optical illusion is cre-
The tree in winter 2004.
130
ated whereby the wider mass appears to push.
down and bend the thinner one. (Artists such as
Mondrian often use this illusion in their paint
ings.) Ifthe pot used has the same length and
width, butis slightly deeper, a reassuring feeling
of grounding and anchoring is restored. The sur-
faced roots appear to be well formed and there is
ice root flare at the base of the trunk.
Trunk development
The feeling of balance and sympathetic move-
ment between the two trunks is good and has
been thoughtfully utilized. The tranks appear
to move together well and while not exactly
rhyming with each other they do make a nicely
unified image.
REACTION As was true of Itce 15, the major trunk
does not have much taper except right near the
top. In the former ease the problem was alleviated
by spreading the canopies so they appeared to need
the support of a stocky trunk. Perhaps a similar so-
lution might work here too.
Branch development
Basically the branches need a lot of selective
pruning and wiring to add the illusion of age to
the dense bunches of terminal twigs. The general
form and structure is very attractive but would be
greatly improved with detailed styling.aa
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book.aa
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book.when the tree is repotted by lifting the root mass refining such details. The tree is then planted
and combing away some of the compacted soil slightly higher, or, with a minor drop to the left
round the smaller existing roots on the right 9 that raises the right hand side, Approach graft
enhance their modeling. When the tree has the _ing seedlings or cuttings will also correct the
old soil washed off, it helps in working on and deficiency.
The tree in winter 2004.
136aa
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book.Area A The main (lower) part of branch At is removed
at the junction with the minor line. The periphery of
tthe red zone is brought in by about 10-15%, carefully
pruning as you go to add spaces, changa twig dirac-
tions and simplify knots of twigs. Some flattening of the
domed contour would be nice. The blue zone by contrast
is brought in more to make a steeper curve. Notice that
the position of the red terminal is much higher than the
blue,
Area B The low left branch and its side branches are
wired, and then the main line is cushioned and gradually
raised up via a slow turnbuckle technique. As the side
branches are spread and positioned, a convincing sec-
cond trunk complex wil be set up.
Area Pruned back ta the dotted line C. some of the
rear branches can be used to continue the upper pro-
file of the second trunk. Notice how the terminal of C
is highor than that of B, this croates an opposing angle
to the underlines of A. The central negative space is an
integral part of this design. The green line highlights
its diverse shape. Obviously the space will look stark to
begin, but the trick in styting maples is in knowing when
to allow then to relax a bit and dangle some leaves into
such a gap.
141aa
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book.‘The tree in three years.aa
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book.3, 128-129
shohin, 13, 15, 37, 39-40, 6!
soil mix, 16, 112
stones, 52-56
‘groups and rafts over, 46-51, 55-56
transplanting, 15,
trident maple, see Acer buergerianum.
trimming, 17, 20~
5-68, 138-141
1, 70-73
branches, 6:
roots, 30)
trunk development, 30, 32-35. See also entries
for trees in Chapter Five.
156
viramin B1, 16, 28
watering, 15, 40
dwarf cultivars, 15
winter care, 26
winter ‘paint pruning’, 26
wiring, 25, 30-31, 40-41
hand clamping method 25
wound seal
Lac balsam, 17, 28. 35
yama-momipi, U1