Lighting Code of Practice
January 2016
• Hazards
• User Checks on Equipment
• Rigging
• Pantographs
• Overhead Rigging.
• HMI Lights
• Gels and Filters
• Lifting
• Using
• Working Outside
• Changing a Bulb
• Derigging
• Coiling Cables
• Return of Equipment
• Faults
• Emergencies
Hazards
Shock
Lighting equipment carries a risk of electrical shock with a very real possibility of death.
An electric shock causes the muscles to contract so the victim cannot let go the faulty
equipment. Anyone touching the victim or equipment will also be electrocuted. Electric shock
can interfere with the working of the heart and cause a heart attack. The electrical current can
cause surface and interior burns as it travels through the body. The trauma of the accident
can also cause the victim to go into shock and die.
To minimise risk
• All equipment must be PAT tested
• All equipment must be checked before use.
• Users must be trained in its proper use.
• Electrical equipment must not come into contact with liquids.
Burns
Most lamps give out a lot of waste heat when in use. This is sufficient to cause contact burns
to exposed flesh.
To minimise risk
• Leather faced gloves must be worn while handling lamps.
• Users must be trained.
Bulbs can explode in normal use with potential of causing burns and/or lacerations to persons
nearby.
To minimise risk
• The bulb must be shielded at all times by a safety wire or safety glass or lens
between the bulb and the subject.
(Not applicable in softlights where the bulb faces away from the subject.)
HMI lamps give out a high amount of UV light; enough to cause burns. Therefore a HMI must
never be run without a lens or safety glass. The trip switch on the barndoor/lens assembly
must not be bypassed.
Fire
A short circuit or heat from a lamp can cause fires.
To minimise risk
• Users must be trained in equipment’s proper use.
• All equipment must be PAT tested.
• All equipment must be checked before use.
• No lamps must be left running unattended.
• No flammable materials to be placed on or near lamps
• Sets and location must be kept tidy.
• Cables must be run properly.
Tripping Injuries
There is a risk of people tripping over cables and lamp stands.
To minimise risk
• Users must be trained in equipment's proper use.
• Sets and location must be kept tidy.
• Cables must be run properly and taped down if needed, or rubber matting, cable
ramps and/or signs in place.
• The public must be kept away from the working environment.
Crushing Injuries
There is a risk of overhead lamps falling on people. There is a risk of lamps being knocked
over.
To minimise risk
• Users must be trained in equipment's proper use.
• Sets and location must be kept tidy.
• Cables must be run properly and taped down if needed, or rubber matting, cable
ramps and/or signs in place.
• The public must be kept away from the working environment.
• Extra care must be taken with overhead rigging with safety bonds used on all
equipment.
• Only suitable equipment may be used to rig lamps.
• All stands to be weighted down with sandbags that are not touching the floor
Strain Injuries
There is a risk of strain from lifting heavy equipment.
To minimise risk
• Users must be trained in manual handling.
• Users must not be straining to lift any equipment. If it is a strain get more trained
people to help.
Fatigue
Fatigue and stress increase the risk of accidents
To minimise risk
• The production must work to a realistic schedule.
• Work must not be rushed due to bad scheduling.
• The production must be crewed at realistic levels.
• The work must be within the competence of the crew.
• There must be twelve hours between a wrap and a call.
• Regular breaks away from the set must be taken, including meal breaks.
• Hot food must be available on night shoots.
• Water must be available at all times.
• No alcohol or drugs use, including prescription drugs that cause drowsiness.
It is the University’s responsibility to
• Provide you with safe equipment.
• Train you in its use.
• Provide you with protective clothing.
• Ensure a safe working environment.
You are responsible for your own safety and that of others.
Do not take risks. Do not allow others to take risks. Do not be bullied into taking risks.
Report accidents. Report damaged equipment and prevent its use. Report unsafe working
practices.
No project or job is more important than anyone's well being.
User Checks on equipment
This applies to University equipment and any equipment you hire or borrow.
Equipment should be checked before going on location.
Check that you have all the equipment you are signing for. Equipment should be checked into
and out of each location against the sign out sheet.
All electrical equipment must be PAT tested. This is indicated by a label somewhere on the
item usually the cable or plug. If there is no label or the test date is over 1 year old it must not
be used; it must be submitted to the Workshop (MG.2) for testing.
The user should check the cabling on each lamp. This should be done each time the lamp is
used.
• There should be no tape on the cable, possibly hiding defects.
• The wiring inside the insulator must not be exposed. Check where the cable passes
into the lamphead, the switch and the plug.
• Check that the plug is not damaged.
• Check that the switch works.
• Check that there is a safety wire or safety glass or lens between the bulb and the
subject. (Not applicable in softlights where the bulb faces away from the subject.)
• Check that an RCD works. Check that the trip switch is set. Check it works by
plugging it in and pressing the test button. The fuse should trip.
• Plug the lamp in and check that it works.
• Check stands to make sure that they lock off properly and are suitable for the lamp
you want to mount on it.
• Likewise check any other grip equipment making sure it is mechanically sound.
• Check you have spare bulbs.
Rigging
Plugging In
Circuits must not be overloaded.
UK electricity supply is 230 volts. A typical circuit in a house is rated at 20 Amps. On this
circuit no more than 13 Amps must be drawn from any one socket and no more than 20Amps
in total. The load should be distributed on the circuit; if possible all the lamps should not run
off a single socket.
Watts = Volts X Amps
230V x 13A = 2990Watts
230V x 20A = 4600Watts
Therefore roughly 2.5KW maximum can be drawn from a 13 Amp outlet and 4.5KW on a
20Amp circuit. Remember that equipment other than your lamps may be drawing power from
the circuit.
As part of planning and pre-production locations should be checked, as part of the location
recce, to ascertain that they have a suitable electricity supply. Productions may have to be
tailored to what is available.
• Check the outlets, number, type and location.
• Check the circuits, number, location and rating.
• Check the fuse board.
• Obtain permission to plug in your equipment.
• Do not use lamps on the same circuit as a computer in case you blow the fuse.
• There are some environments where lighting cannot be used, if there is any doubt
check with the location.
Ballasts
Any light with a ballast, i.e. Kino Flo, Dedo, HMI, must not be plugged in through the dimmer
board or a dimmer switch. In the studio use the 13amp wall sockets only and a
13amp>16amp jumper if required.
Running Cable
Cable should be run from an outlet to the lamp with any slack loosely coiled at the base of the
stand. There must be enough cable so that it runs flat along the ground and straight up the
stand to the lamp.
Cable Drums should be fully uncoiled before use. Large amounts of electricity going round a
coil can create heat and potentially melt the cable and start a fire.
16A cable must not be run over 50 meters from the outlet to the lamp head. This is due to the
resistance of the cable and voltage drop over distance. There should be as few possible
connections in a cable run.
Cable that crosses walkways should be securely Gaffer taped down to avoid tripping. Fire
exits must not be blocked. Cable should not run through doorways. Cable runs should be kept
neat and tidy. There should be no rubbish or combustibles in contact with cables. Runs that
aren't being used should be disconnected and coiled up. Spare equipment should be kept
neatly away from the set. The Gaffer is responsible for how lamps are rigged and cabled on
the set.
Setting Up Stands
The stand should be set up on reasonably level ground. Only the three legs should be in
contact with the ground. The centre section must not be in contact with the ground. Only use
stands with lazy legs on uneven ground. Level the stand by adjusting the lazy leg.
The lamp should be roughly in the centre of a triangle described by where the three legs
touch the ground.
If the lamp is to be used at height or there is any possibility of a horizontal movement the
base of the stand should be weighted with sandbags.
The lamp should be rigged the correct way up, normally the cable come out of the base of the
lamp. The lamp should be secure on its stand. The stand must be suitable to the size and
weight of lamp. The head should be locked off on the stand.
Raise a stand starting at the topmost section. Lock off all sections securely. If the lamp head
is heavy two people should lift it into the stand. Care must also be taken when raising and
lowering stands that do not have a mechanical windup mechanism. Leather faced gloves
should be worn.
One leg of the stand should be pointing in the direction of the action to avoid falls towards
cast.
The sections connecting the legs to the centre bar should be parallel to the floor to ensure
you have the correct spread of the legs for that stand.
C-Stands
C-stand arms should be positioned over the tallest leg to maximise stability.
The knuckle should tighten in the same direction as the weight of the arm is pulling.
Any protruding ends of arms around eye level should be highlighted with coloured tape or
preferably cushioned with a tennis ball
Equipment must not be disassembled. This includes lamps, stands, C-stands,
grip heads, and clamps. Equipment must be used as supplied. If you have to modify it or take
it apart it isn't suitable for its purpose and cannot be used. C- stands cannot be improvised
into boom arms.
Pantographs
At least 2 people must be working together when adjusting anything on the Pantographs, to
help and look out for each other.
Ensure your operating pole is at a comfortable length before use. If it is not, take it down and
adjust. Ensure no one is underneath or in the immediate area of the lamp you are adjusting.
When raising or lowering the lights using the top most blue cups, always look up at the
pantograph to look out for obstructions (i.e. cables, slack wire, other lamps) which may be
preventing the pantograph to raise or lower correctly or straining to the point of breakage.
When sliding a single lamp head along the bar use either the silver pin in the centre of the
pantograph (Studio 2) or release the break by hooking the pole into the black protruding bar
in the centre of the pantograph and pulling down gently before pulling to the side (Studio 1).
Again both people should be looking up at the pantograph to ensure cables are not being
pulled tight, or anything is obstructing the movement. Do not pull via the blue cup.
When moving the whole bar 2 operating poles should be used and hooked into the black
hooks at either end of the pole. Do not pull via the white cups, these are breaks which should
be left loose and can easily break if pulled. Both people should then gently move the bar at
exactly the same time whilst looking up to check for obstructions and that cables are not
being pulled tight. If only one side is pulled then the bars can jam diagonally preventing any
further movement.
When removing a light, lower pantograph to a comfortable working height. One or two people
should take the weight of the lamp whilst a separate person unplugs the lamp, removes the
safety bond, untightens the holding screw and finally removes the pin which will allow the light
to be lowered out of the pantograph.
When rigging a light, lower pantograph to a comfortable working height. One or two people
should take the weight of the lamp and insert the spigot into the pantograph whilst a separate
person attaches the pin, which should fit all the way through the spigot and nestle perfectly
within the top of the pantograph. If the pin does not fit all the way through or hangs over the
edge of the pantograph you need a different pin and the light cannot be safely rigged. If the
pin does fit perfectly the hold screw can then be tightened, a safety bond attached as tightly
as possible, and the lamp plugged in so there is enough slack on the cable for the lamp to
pan and tilt but so none is hanging down or resting on the lamp.
Anything attached to the lamp such as barn doors, or gel trays, needs their own safety bond
and all catches on the lamp to be fully working.
Attaching anything to the pantographs other then studio lights requires authorisation from the
studio manager. The pantographs have a 40KG weight limit.
Do Not power floor standing lights from the pantographs.
Overhead rigging.
Grip equipment must be suitable for the purpose.
It must be able to take the weight of the lamp. Anything that it is attached to must also be able
to take the weight safely. It must be safety bonded using chains or rope in such a way that if
anything fails it will not fall to the ground.
All accessories (barndoors, filter holders etc.) must also be bonded so as not to be able to
fall. It must be rigged to avoid people walking into it. Care must be taken so that ceilings are
not exposed to heat that would damage them or that the heat will not set off fire alarms or
sprinklers.
There should be no-one working underneath you when working overhead.
Catpoles are not designed to be used horizontally (ie between two walls) and must only be
used vertically (from floor to ceiling)
Cabling should run up the wall and along the support to the lamp. It should be taped in place
with Gaffer tape with any slack at the head.
HMI Lights
HMI lights should not be used without training.
HMI ballasts need to be plugged into a constant power supply and not plugged through the
dimmer board or any in line dimmers. The lamps should be turned on and off at the ballast
not the lamp head.
The head and ballast are connected via a header cable, care should be taken when attaching
to not bend the connector pins. The header cable should be attached and the breaker switch
on the ballast turned off before connecting the ballast to the power supply. The lamp should
be off and the breaker switch down before disconnecting from the power supply. After turning
off the lamp you will need to wait a few minutes before turning back on.
HMI bulbs can be very dangerous if damaged so extra care should be taken during
transportation and two or more people always to lift the head or the ballasts which are very
heavy. Bulbs should be changed as soon as the colour temperature is noticeably green to
ensure the bulb does not break at the end of its life.
Gels and filters
Anything attached to the lamp should be fire retardant. Gels should be attached to barn doors
using Croc clips or wooden clothes pegs. Never use tape on a lamphead. Gel on barndoors
should be open top and bottom to allow air to circulate and heat to escape. Gels can also be
cut and placed in gelholders. Periodically check gels to make sure they aren't burning out.
Lifting
• Plan what you are going to do. For heavy lamps and large softlights you will need two
people.
• Set up the stand first.
• Make sure the locking nut is loosened to allow the spigot to go into the socket.
• Position the lamp near the stand.
• Adjust the stirrup so that you don't have to rotate the lamp to position it in the stand.
• Lock the stirrup off.
• Make sure there are no cables in the way that will hamper your movements.
• Co-ordinate what you will be doing with the other person.
• Stand close to the lamp with feet apart.
• Hold the lamp firmly by the stirrup and the locking handle.
• Bend your knees and keep your back straight.
• Lift with your legs smoothly don't jerk the load.
• If it is too heavy put it down and get some help.
• Place spigot in socket. The stand now carries the load.
• Lock off the stand.
• Adjust the lamphead in the stirrup so it burns the right way up.
Using
• Wear gloves when handling lamps. Be careful of bare forearms on hot surfaces.
• Warn subjects before turning on a lamp by saying "sparking" or “striking”. If possible
face the lamp away from the subject when switching it on.
• Do not run a lamp with its barn doors closed.
• Lamps may be adjusted while lit but should be switched off to move or re-rig.
• Do not look directly into a lamp without using a pan glass.
• Do not attempt to change the angle of a lamp by pulling on its cable. If a lamp is too
high up a stand lower it in order to adjust it, or use a suitable ladder or platform to
reach it. Some studio lamps can be adjusted using a lighting pole.
• Make sure the lamp and stand are securely locked off after adjusting.
• If a lamp is rigged where the public (anyone not in the cast and crew) may have
access to it an electrician must stay with the lamp at all times.
• lamps must not be used in wet environments. (bathrooms, swimming pools,
riverbanks, the rain)
• Check cables from time to time to make sure they are not heating up.
• Turn lamps off during breaks. Making sure there is house lighting or worklamps.
• Overnight if not de-rigging make sure lamps are disconnected from the power supply.
• Always treat lamps as if they are running on different phases of the electrical supply.
Therefore never touch two pieces of equipment at the same time. If there is a fault
on two pieces of equipment running on different phases there is a potential fault
voltage of 460 Volts instead of 230 volts on a single item. Because of the large
currents drawn in studios and on film sets it is usual for there to be multiple phases in
use.
Working Outside
When working outside in the elements extra care need to be taken when working with lamps
at height and electricity in wet and damp conditions.
All stands will need additional weight to stand against sudden gusts of wind. Any high stands
will need to be tied off with rope to structurally sound objects. Be aware of flags and frames
which can turn into sails in high wind. Also be aware of and avoid overhead cables and power
lines.
When working in potential rain 16amp or above cables need to be tied at connections to
ensure waterproof seal stays effective, and ideally wrapped in waterproof material (plastic
bags). 13amp connections are in no way waterproof and should be kept away from potentially
damp conditions.
HMI ballasts need to be in dry conditions at all times.
Be aware of sudden rain to avoid rapid cooling and shattering of glass or bulbs. Do not point
lamps up towards the sky and should be horizontal or at a downwards angle, and try and
provide cover before rain starts via a flag or umbrella at a safe distance from the lamp head to
avoid fire risks.
If heavy rain is forecast do not put lights or any electrics outside.
Any lights in a public area needs to have a trained spark with it at all times, and cables need
to be ramped and sign posted.
Changing a bulb
• Switch the lamp off.
• Allow to cool
• Isolate the lamp from the electricity supply by unplugging it.
• Make sure no one can plug it in while you are working on it.
• Wear gloves.
• Remove the safety frame or glass, or open the lens.
• Remove the blown bulb. Dispose of it carefully to avoid anyone being cut by glass.
• If the bulb has exploded carefully remove glass from inside the lamp head.
• Remove the new bulb from its protective wrapping, taking care not to touch the glass
with bare hands.
• Place bulb in lamp. If it locks in place make sure it is locked off.
• HMI bulbs burn in one direction only. Check with manufacturers diagrams.
• Replace safety wire or glass, close lens.
• Plug in
• Power on.
Derigging
Lamps and cables must be wrapped before starting to dismantle a set.
Turn off all lamps at the head, leaving a worklight if necessary. Allow lamps to cool. Unplug
cables. Coil up the cabling, removing Gaffer tape and cleaning off with a damp rag if needed.
Tie off the cables. Count them. Place in their bin or a neat pile.
Coiling cables
Do not coil cables by wrapping it between your elbow and hand. Hold the fixed end or the
trailing socket in one hand. Use the other hand to coil the cable into its natural coils so that
the cable will lie flat and not in a figure eight when coiled. You should give a slight twist with
your figures at the top of the loop when coiling. Feel the cable for any faults or breaks in the
insulation while doing this. Tie off the cable.
Lower the lamps. Close the barn doors on the lamps. Take the cool lampheads off the stands.
Coil the cables on the lampheads starting at the fixed end. tie off cable to stirrup. Rest the
lamp on its base in preference to resting it on its barndoors. Put lamphead in case or collect
neatly with cables.
Derig stands. Remove any tape. Clean with damp cloth if needed. Dry off. Make sure they are
folded properly and all locks tightened. Collect neatly with other equipment.
Check equipment off list. Pack into transport. Before leaving location perform a “panic check”
to make sure nothing is left behind. Leave the location as you found it or preferably in better
condition than you found it. Replace any items you have moved on location. Make good any
damage caused. Thank the owners for the use of their space and their forbearance.
Return of Equipment
The wastage of small items each year reduces the equipment available for subsequent years.
If the students don't find or replace lost items then the cost is charged to the course in
question. Degrees may be withheld until the cost is recovered from the student.
Equipment must come back on time; complete; clean; tape removed; cables coiled and tied;
stands locked; with any faults noted on the items.
Check equipment against the inventory given when issued. It is especially important when
hiring equipment from several sources that the correct equipment is returned to the correct
supplier.
Equipment must be returned to where it was issued from. Equipment is not returned until
checked in and any faults reported.
It must not be blind-dropped at the stores or studio.
Faults
If a lamp does not work and it is not the bulb
• Isolate it at the socket.
• Do not attempt to repair it.
• Take it out of use.
• Mark it with an X of camera tape across the barn doors.
• Write the suspected fault on the tape.
If a lamp keeps tripping a fuse (more than once)
• Isolate it at the socket.
• Do not attempt to repair it.
• Take it out of use.
• Mark it with an X of camera tape across the barn doors.
• Write the suspected fault on the tape.
If a lamp is making sparking noises (sizzling)
• Do not touch the lamphead
• Immediately isolate it at the socket.
• Do not attempt to repair it.
• Take it out of use.
• Mark it with an X of camera tape across the barn doors.
• Write the suspected fault on the tape.
Emergencies
If a lamp or cable goes on fire.
• Do not panic.
• Evacuate the set.
• Raise the alarm.
(break the glass on a fire alarm. If safe to do so, call 5555 in the
university and report location and nature of incident. On location dial
999 or 112 ask for the fire brigade and describe the incident)
• If safe to do so isolate at the fuseboard.
• Only if safe to do so and without exposing yourself to risk fight the
fire with suitable equipment. CO2 extinguisher, fire blanket, sand
bucket. Never use foam or water on electrical fires.
If someone is being electrocuted.
• Do not panic.
• Never touch the victim or the equipment or any liquid the victim is in
contact with.
• Isolate the electricity supply at the fuseboard.
• Seek medical help.
(Call 5555 in the university and report location and nature of incident.
On location dial 999 or 112 ask for an ambulance and describe the
incident)
• If you have suitable knowledge apply first aid to the victim making
sure that the electricity supply is completely isolated.
All accidents in studio or on location must be reported and written up in the
accident book.
