KOD SUBJEK : DCC2042

BRICKWORKS AND CONCRETE LABORATORY

NAMA PENSYARAH : SITI NOOR RATNA BINTI ZAKARIA
TAJUK : TYPE OF BRICK BONDS WALL PLASTERING

BI NAMA NO. MATRIK

L
1. EFFA FARZANA BINTI SAFUAN 16DKA18F1998
 ISI KANDUNGAN

BIL. KANDUNGAN

1. STRECHER BOND

2. ENGLISH BOND

3. FLEMISH BOND

4. WALL PLASTERING
 BRICKWORK LABORATORY
CIVIL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
POLITEKNIK TUANKU SULTANAH BAHIYAH

Programme Diploma Civil Engineering

Test No. 1
Title Stretcher Bond

STRETCHER BOND

To develop stretcher bond, bricks are placed horizontally like

stretchers on the faces of walls. The length of the bricks remains
along the horizontal direction of the wall.
If it is required to build up the walls with half brick thickness,
stretcher bond becomes very effective. The normal size of the brick is
9cmx9cmx18cm. If the wall having thickness 9cm is to be built up,
then stretcher bond will be ideal for that.
PROCEDURE :
1. First lay a foundation strip before building the wall.
2. Fasten string lines on pegs and stretch the string line cross the
foundation strip.
3. Dry-lay the brick to give you an idea of what the wall brick look like.
4. Start arranged in stretcher course in this bond.
5. For the second and next course of brickwork, lay the brickwork same as
first layer.
6. To complete the wall, arranged in stretch course in bond.
 BRICKWORK LABORATORY
CIVIL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
POLITEKNIK TUANKU SULTANAH BAHIYAH

Programme Diploma Civil Engineering

Test No. 2
Title English Bond

ENGLISH BOND

English bond is made up of alternating courses of stretchers and

headers. This produces a solid wall that is a full brick in depth, is easy
to lay and is the strongestbond for a one-brick-thick wall. Header
bond is created by rows of headers, only displaced by half a brick on
each row.
APPARATUS :
1. String Line
2. Bricks
3. Bricklaying Trowel
4. Harmer
5. Mortar
6. Spirit Level

PROCEDURE :
1. In English bond, a heading course should never start with a queen closer
as it is liable to get displaced in this position.
2. In the stretcher course, the stretchers should have a minimum lap of
1/4th their length over the headers.
3. Walls having their thickness equal to an even number of half bricks, i.e.,
one brick thick wail, 2 brick thick wall, 3 brick thick wall and so on,
present the same appearance on both the faces, i .e. a course consisting
of headers on front face will show headers on the back face also.
4. In walls having their thickness equal to an odd number of half brick, i.e.
1½ brick thick walls or 2½ brick thick walls and so on, the same course
will show stretchers on one face and headers on the other.
5. In thick walls the middle portion is entirely filled with header to prevent
the formation of vertical joints in the body of the wall.
6. Since the number of vertical joints in the header course is twice the
number of joints in the stretcher course, the joints in the header course
are made thinner than those in the stretcher course.
 BRICKWORK LABORATORY
CIVIL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
POLITEKNIK TUANKU SULTANAH BAHIYAH

Programme Diploma Civil Engineering

Test No. 3
Tittle Flemish Bond

FLEMISH BOND

Flemish bond brick pattern is the most common and classic of brick
laying patterns. It can be found on many modern and historical
buildings. It is also one of the most difficult brick patterns to lay
properly because every brick must be lined up perfectly horizontally
and vertically.
PROCEDURE :
1. First lay a foundation strip before building the wall.
2. Fasten string lines on pegs and stretch the string line across the
foundation strip.
3. Dry-lay the brick to give you an idea of how the brick wall look.
4. Start by laying the first corner brick from the left side. Lay the
shorter end of the brick (header) facing you.
5. Next, lay two stretcher-bonded bricks (long side of the bricks)
side by side, facing you.
6. Lay another header brick. Don’t forget to leave a 1 cm (3/8 in)
gap between each brick.
7. Finish dry-laying the first course of bricks, alternating the
header and stretcher.
8. When you are sure of this first course, re-lay the bricks.
9. This time, fill in the gaps between the bricks with 1 cm (3/8 in)
mortar joints.
10. Check if the course is level with a spirit level.
11. For the second course of brickwork, lay the brickwork at
the header end if your first course was a stretcher course, and
vice-versa.
12. To complete the wall, alternate the headers and
stretchers in every course.
 BRICKWORK LABORATORY
CIVIL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
POLITEKNIK TUANKU SULTANAH BAHIYAH

Programme Diploma Civil Engineering

Test No. 4
Title Wall Plastering

WALL PLASTERING

Plasterwork refers to construction or ornamentation done with

plaster, such as a layer of plaster on an interior or exterior wall
structure, or plaster decorative moldings on ceilings or walls. This is
also sometimes called pargeting. The process of creating
plasterwork, called plastering or rendering, has been used in building
construction for centuries. For the art history of three-dimensional
plaster, see stucco.
Tools and materials include trowels, floats, hammers, screeds, a
hawk, scratching tools, utility knives, laths, lath nails, lime, sand, hair,
plaster of Paris, a variety of cements, and various ingredients to form
color washes.
While most tools have remained unchanged over the centuries,
developments in modern materials have led to some changes.
Trowels, originally constructed from steel, are now available in a
polycarbonate material that allows the application of certain new,
acrylic-based materials without staining the finish. Floats,
traditionally made of timber (ideally straight-grained, knot-free,
 yellow pine), are often finished with a layer of sponge or expanded
polystyrene.

APPARATUS :
1. Bucket
2. Stirring Rod or Mixer Drill and Paddle
3. Plasterer’s bead or timber ground’s
4. Spirit level
5. Spot (layer of the board supported on a crate)
6. Plasterer trowel
7. Hawk
8. Plasterer’s float
9. Straightedge or featheredge
10. Scarifier
11. Splash brush or water spray bottle
12. Ladder or plasterer’s stilts

PROCEDURE :
1. Preparing Your Work Area and Materials
- Start with clean tools. One of the most important (and often
overlooked) requirements of a professional plastering job is avoiding
contamination. Before you begin mixing your plaster, make sure your
buckets, trowels, floats, and anything else that will come into contact
with the wall are spotless. If you wouldn’t be willing to eat off of it, it
isn’t clean enough.
- Lay out drop-cloths to keep your work area clean. Some cheap canvas
sheeting or a couple plastic tarps will provide a barrier against dust,
spills, and muddy mortar footprints. Plastering can get pretty messy,
so this simple measure can spare you an exhaustive cleanup process
later on. Plaster is hardest to clean off dark walls because you will
have to wash of any plaster that dropped with rags and water later.
• Plaster can also damage or scratch wood or laminate floors,
so be sure to cover your floors well.
• For airtight protection, use painter's tape to secure the
dropcloth directly to the floor beneath the wall.
• When you're finished, just roll up the drop-cloths, take
them outside, and spray them clean.
• The biggest cause of plaster falling off of the tools is mixing
in too much water. As you get better, you will drop less plaster,
you will get less on your hands and cleanup will be less.

- Clean the wall to remove dust and debris. Scrub the wall from top to
bottom with a dry stiff-bristled brush. Pay particular attention to the
areas with heavy buildup, or where stripped layers of old plaster have
left behind clumps. When you’re done, wipe the wall with a damp
cloth to pick up what you loosened with the brush.
• Prime over stained areas to ensure the plaster will adhere
properly.
• Repair any cracks in the wall before plastering it.
• To test whether the wall is ready to accept new plaster, run your
finger over the surface. If it comes away caked with dust, it still needs
some work. Spraying the wall with water will help the new plaster to
adhere to the old wall.
• You should always begin by cleaning your work surface, whether
you’re resurfacing an old wall or plastering over brand new lath.
Dust, soap, oil, tar and mold all cause the plaster not to adhere to the
surface. Also a wall that is too dry causes the water to be absorbed
out of the plaster and set before it has time to stick to the wall.

- Brush on PVA glue to prepare the wall to hold the plaster. Combine
one part PVA glue with four parts water in a disposable paint tray and
 mix thoroughly. Roll or brush the PVA over the entire wall, aiming for
total coverage. For best results, the plaster should be applied while
the PVA coat is tacky but not completely dry.
• PVA glue is necessary to help the new plaster adhere to the wall.
• A preliminary coat will also prevent the substrate from leaching
moisture from the plaster, which can cause crumbling.

- Mix your plaster in a 5 or 7 gallon (18.9 or 26.5 L) (19-26L) bucket. Fill

the bucket to the halfway mark with cool, clean water. Open a new
bag of plaster mix and shake it into the bucket until it forms a mound
above the surface of the water. Then, use a plunger or stirring rod to
begin incorporating the dry plaster particles.
• Always add the plaster mix to the water, not the other way
around. If you add water to the plaster, you will have to apply
pressure to mix the plaster at the bottom of the pail and you will
over-mix the plaster and it will set too fast to work with.[6] Stir the
mixture as you add in the plaster.
• An electric drill with a paddle attachment can save you a lot of
time if you're mixing up large or multiple batches. You must know
that mixing the plaster with an attachment on your drill will cause the
plaster to set much faster. Use the attachment for large jobs, where
you will apply a lot of plaster in a short amount of time. If you are
doing small patch-work, use a smaller bucket and mix by hand so that
the plaster will set slower and give you time to work.

- Stir the plaster continuously to thicken it. Keep mixing until it's
perfectly smooth and free of lumps. Every now and then, scrape the
sides of the bucket to loosen any clinging dry pockets. By the time
you're finished, the plaster should be roughly the same consistency
as peanut butter.
• A good way to determine whether the plaster is thick enough is to
stick a wooden paint stirrer straight down into the bucket. If it stands
up on its own, it means your plaster is just right.
2. Applying the First Coat of Plaster
- Heap some fresh plaster onto your hawk board. Scoop the plaster out
of the bucket with the edge of your trowel. If you’ve transferred the
plaster to a separate surface, like a tarp or mixing table, you can
simply drag it straight onto the hawk. Pile it on so you won’t be
forced to interrupt your flow to add more.
• When properly mixed, the plaster shouldn’t stick to the hawk. If
you want, however, you can wet the hawk slightly to help it release.
- Use your trowel to ready a small amount of plaster. Slide the flat
edge of the trowel under one end of the plaster and pick up enough
to layer on a strip from floor to ceiling. To ensure accuracy and
efficiency, make sure the plaster is sitting directly in the center of the
trowel.
• Start with a conservative amount of plaster and add more as
needed. It’s much easier to build the coat as you go than it is to even
out an oversized glob.
- Smear the plaster onto the wall, starting with the bottom corner.
Crouch down and push the plaster up the wall in a gentle arc,
standing as you go to reach the higher parts. At the top of your
stroke, slide the trowel over 2-3 inches (5-8cm), then reverse the
motion and bring it down again. You’ll use this same technique to
smooth on the plaster a little at a time.
• If the plaster is soft and slides down a little on the wall, let it set 5
minutes to harden a little, then hit it with the trowel again and it will
not slip.
• Keep your trowel at a slight angle. Holding it flush can pull plaster
away from the wall.
• For the first coat, aim for a thickness of roughly 3/8” (1cm).
- Plaster the wall in sections. Continue working your way along the
wall, spreading the plaster from bottom to top. Pause as needed to
scoop more plaster onto your hawk board. Repeat this pattern until
the plaster has been spread evenly over the entire surface.
• You may need a step ladder to hit the upper corners of the wall.
• Don’t worry too much about getting the thickness perfect at this
point. You’ll be going back over the plaster later to smooth and
polish.
 - Smooth the first coat of plaster. Once the plaster is in place, clear
your trowel and run it over the wall in all directions. Apply a
consistent amount of pressure, focusing on spots where the plaster is
thicker or the higher edges have created seam. Imagine that you’re
icing a cake—each sweep should leave the surface more polished and
level.
• If necessary, use a spray bottle to re-wet the first sections of
plaster. This will make them respond better to the trowel.
• A wet high-quality paintbrush can come in handy for touching up
tricky edges and corners.
- Scrape the plaster to add texture before adding the second coat
(optional).Consider scoring the wet plaster to create a better base for
the second coat. Rake the plaster vertically from one end to the other
with a deviling float or notched trowel. Now that you’ve given the
rest of the plaster something to hold onto, you won't have to worry
about it cracking or separating.
• If you don’t have access to either of these tools, you can also use
an ordinary fork, though this may take quite a bit longer.
• Scoring creates shallow grooves that increase the overall surface
area of the wall and allows the second coat to adhere better.

3. Spreading and Polishing the Finish Coat

- Spread on a second and final coat of plaster. The outer “skim” coat
can also be around 3/8”, though you can get away with a layer as thin
as 1/12”, or about 2mm. Apply this coat exactly as you did the first,
making sure there are no obvious gaps or seams.
• You can smooth the skim coat with your trowel or trade it out for
a float to take care of the finishing touches.
- Use a float to get an even finish. Glide the float lightly over the
surface of the wet plaster in all directions to work out any lumps,
lines, holes, and inconsistencies in thickness. When you’re done, the
wall should have a smooth, uniform appearance.
• Take your time. Smoothing plaster is a painstaking task, but one
that is important to do correctly.
• Be careful not to polish the plaster too much. Eventually, it will
begin to take on a glossy quality, which can weaken the hold of paint
and wallpaper.
- Allow the plaster to set. Depending on various conditions, plaster can
take anywhere from 2-5 days to fully harden. Avoid handling the
fresh plaster as it dries. Any imperfections it picks up during this time
will be visible in the finished wall.[20]
• Factors like the composition of your plaster, the temperature of
your work area, and the amount of moisture in the air can all have an
impact on drying times.
• The wall should be totally dry before you add paint, wallpaper, or
any other decorations.