Operation Sequence and Production
Operation Sequence and Production
Volume 5, Issue 4, April – 2020 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology
ISSN No:-2456-2165
Operation Sequence and Production
Technologies in Intimate Apparels
Aiswarya V Mohan, S Praveena
M-Tech Apparel Technology, Department of Fashion Technology, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Saravanampatti
Abstract:- To meet the growing needs of intimate highest position in overall apparel industry. For meeting the
apparels, understanding the operation sequence starting needs of customer’s expectation about intimate apparels,
from raw material procurement and innovative keen concentration should be given from the raw material
production technologies grounds the major role. Even selection, operation sequence and production technology.
fiber, yarn and fabric properties are cross checked Basics for the production of intimate apparels namely,
before fitting it into the appropriate intimate apparel Men’s brief, Lingerie, Men’s Vest are mentioned in this
category. Perfectly chosen raw material completes the paper.
first phase followed by the second phase of engineering
innovative production technology based on design type, II. FABRIC REQUIREMENTS FOR INTIMATE
quality and quantity. Basic intimate apparels includes APPAREL
brief, lingerie, vest and their operation sequence,
production technology are included with this paper. The intimate apparel industries have seen a lot of
innovations in terms of fabric. Initially for the production
Keywords:- Intimate Apparels, Innovative, Operation of under garments, cotton was preferably used. However
Sequence, Production Technology, Brief, Lingerie, Vest. with the advancements and innovated technologies
polyester, nylon, modal, rayon, silk, bamboo etc where
I. INTRODUCTION brought into application.
Knit is a very generic term that covers a wide range of In weft knitting purl and interlock fabrics leads the
products for a wider array of applications. A world without intimate apparel production because of its extremely stable
knits will be a very dull and less comfortable world. with no tendency to curl structure. It’s elastic and extended
Intimate apparels are produced from either the warp knitted form counts to the properties of intimate apparels. The ones
or weft knitted fabrics. Intimate apparels are the once knitted in soft cotton yarns is widely used in men’s under
which are worn next to skin or under the clothing. Since it wear and leisure wear. Weight and areal density are the
has a direct contact with human skin, it is known as second major fabric requirement for intimate apparels. The GSM
skin. The manufacturing of intimate apparels stands in the of selected fabric normally range between 150 and 200.
Type Structure GSM Shrinkage Allowance Yarn Count
Vest(sleeveless) Interlock(min 36 145 and above 10% to 15% 40s 100% combed
courses/inch) cotton yarn
Vest(half sleeve) Interlock(min 36 145 and above 10% to 15% 40s 100% combed
courses/inch) cotton yarn
Brief(full) (a)Single Jersey Knit 125 and above 10% to 15% 40s 100% combed
(b) Interlock(min 36 cotton yarn
courses/inch)
Brief (half) (a)Single Jersey Knit 125 and above 10% to 15% 40s 100% combed
(b) Interlock(min 36 cotton yarn
courses/inch)
(c)Double Ribbed
Lingerie (a)Interlock 140 for light weight 10% to 15% Depends on the enduse
(b)Single Jersey 200 for medium weight
knit and
285 for supportive bra
cups.
Table 1:- Fabric Requirements of Intimate Apparels
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Volume 5, Issue 4, April – 2020 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology
ISSN No:-2456-2165
III. OPERATION SEQUENCE AND PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES
Men’s Brief:
These are type of short, snug underwear having different styles with the waist band attached to fabric.
Types of Briefs:
Boxers-under wear for more breathability
Boxer brief - combination of boxers and briefs
Trunks – A kind of Men’s undergarment
Brief – best underwear for men
Fig 1:- Operation flow chart for men’s brief
OP Sewing Process Stitches Machine
1 Bind Fly Panels 406 cover stitch 4TOL
2 Join & Tape Front 410 cover stitch 4TOL
3 Bind Leg Openings 406 cover stitch 4TOL
4 Close Crotch 607 cover stitch 5TOL
5 Close Elastic Waistband 607 cover stitch 5TOL
6 Set Elastic Waistband 407 cover stitch 4TOL
7 Set Label to WB 301 lock stitch 3TOL
8 Bartack Bat tack BARTACKING
Table 2:- Sewing process, Stitches and Machines for men’s brief
Full Name ofthe Sewing Machine machine gives whole garment as output and the additional
3TOL: 3thread over lock stitch job to be done is waist band strip fusing.
4TOL: 4thread over lock stitch
5TOL: 5thread over lock stitch Lingerie:
Lingerie is commonly used under garment for women.
Normally, for the manufacturing of men’s brief cut It includes night wear and light weight bathing suits. They
and sews method is followed. Reputed brands prefer are basically fancy, light weight and smooth ones made of
seamless technology for its production. In cut and sew silk, cotton nylon and polyester based fibers.
method, the knitted fabric will be undergone patterning
cutting and sewing. Whereas for the later the seamless
IJISRT20APR945 www.ijisrt.com 1187
Volume 5, Issue 4, April – 2020 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology
ISSN No:-2456-2165
Types of Lingerie: Brassiere – close fitting garment(bra)
Baby Doll – Short loose fitted night gown Bustier - form fitting garment
Basque – tight, form fitting bodice Camisole – It covers top body and they are normally
Bloomers – baggy underwear till knee sleeveless ones
Bodystocking – unitard Chemise – one piece garment
Bodice – covers body from neck to waist
Fig 2:- Operation flow chart for lingerie
OP SEWING PROCESS SAM MACHINE
1 Join Cups 0.57 SNLS
2 Attach Tape to Cups 0.73 DNLS
3 attach Elastic to side cups 0.44 3SZZ
4 Set support Panels 0.39 SNLS
5 Serge support panels 0.62 3TOL
Join support panels, cup and
6 1.52 SNLS
front
Attach coverstitch tape to
7 0.61 DNLS
front
8 Join backs to cups 0.55 SNLS
Attach coverstitch tape to
9 0.47 DNLS
sides
10 Attach lace and tape to cups 0.76 DNLS
11 Attach elastic to band 0.90 ZZ
12 Attach upper elastic & straps 0.91 3SZZ
13 Cover support panels edges 0.54 3TOL
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Volume 5, Issue 4, April – 2020 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology
ISSN No:-2456-2165
Attach hooks and eyes to
14 1.39 SNLS
straps
15 Set eye to back 0.36 ZZ
16 Set hook to back 0.50 SNLS
17 Attach trimming to front 0.25 SNLS
18 Trim thread and inspect 1.00 MAN
Total SAM 12.51
Table 3:- Sewing process, Stitches and Machines for lingerie
Full Name of the Sewing Machine cups by the method of thermal pressing using bullet head
SNLS: Single Needle Lock Stitch machine moulds. A seamless sewing technology is used by
DNLS: Double Needle Lock stitch machine ‘Ultrasonic Bra Strap Welding Machine’ to create wireless
3TOL: 3 thread over lock welding for straps and to smooth the joins.
ZZ: Zig -zag sewing machine
MAN: Manual work Men’s Vest:
Men’s vest is intimate apparel worn underneath a shirt
Recent Developments: to protect body from sweat and odour. It may either come
Invention of ‘Bra Ring Machine’ had made a drastic in short sleeves or in sleeveless.
development in the lingerie production. The production
speed ranges from 45 to 90 pieces per min with adjustable Types of Men’s Vest:
feeding length and radius of ring. ‘Bra Wires Bending and A-Shirt – athletic shirt
Cutting Machine’ easily helps to operate and adjust the arcs T-shirt – short sleeved crew necked collarless shirts
and shapes of bra wires. ‘Fabric Bra Cup Molding
Machine’ helps in molding different types of fabric bra
Fig 3:- Operation flow chart for men’s vest
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Volume 5, Issue 4, April – 2020 International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology
ISSN No:-2456-2165
OP Sewing Process Stitches Machine
1 Bind Left Armhole 406 cover stitch 4TOL
2 Join Left Shoulder 504 edge stitch OES
3 Bind Neck Opening 406 cover stitch 4TOL
4 Bind Right Armhole 406 cover stitch 4TOL
5 Close Right Shoulder 504 edge stitch OES
6 Tack Shoulder Seams Bar tack BARTACKING
7 Hem Bottom 406 cover stitch 4TOL
Table 4:- Sewing process, Stitches and Machines for men’s vest
Full Name ofthe Sewing Machine
OES: Over Edge Stitch machine
4TOL: 4thread over lock
IV. CONCLUSION
Brief’s, lingerie and vest are the top intimate apparels
that get produced and sold in the world wide apparel
markets. They are available in various styles, attractive
colors, price categories under the name of different brands.
The selection of technology for each one depends upon the
production quantity and buyer needs even though the basic
operation sequence remains constant.
REFERENCES
[1]. www.onlineclothingstudy.com
[2]. Dibyendu B D. ‘A REVIEW OF MEN’S
UNDERWEAR STYLES AND ITS VARIOUS
FABRICS’. Trends in textile and fash design 2(2)-
2018.LTFD.MS.ID.000134.
[3]. Terry Brackenbury, Knitted Clothing Technology.
[4]. www.wikipedia.com