EXPORT HOUSE

KNOWLEDGE FACT
LALBHAI GROUP & ARVIND LTD.
⦿ Arvind Ltd. - A flagship company of a
diversified $550 million Lalbhai group
founded in 1908
⦿ Lalbhai Group Businesses are:
› Textiles & Clothing's (Core Business)

⚫ Manufacturing ( Arvind Ltd., Lifestyle Fabrics & Apparels)

⚫ Retail (Megamart Retails)
› Financial Services (Anagram Sec. Ltd.)
› Engineering (Anup Engg. Ltd.)
› Chemicals & Dyes (Atul Ltd., Anil Starch Products Ltd.)
› Telecom & Electronics (Arvind Telecom)
 DENIM SHIRTINGS SHIRTS KNITS KNITS

Production
commenced 1987 1999-00 2000-01 1999-00 1999-00

Products Yarn & fabric Yarn & fabric Garment Fabric Garment

Capacity 120 mmpa. 30 mmpa 4.8 M shirts 7200 tons pa 12.0 M pcs

Amber,
Plant location Naroda Santej Bangalore Santej Vadsar &
EmBee

GAP, Levi’s, GAP, Tommy, M&S, Hanes, M&S, Hanes,

Major end M&S,
Lee, JC GAP, BR, M&S Reebok, Indian Reebok,
user brands Penney Wal-Mart Retailer Adidas
KNITS BUSINESS DIVISION

Life Style Apparels - Knitwear

✓ Sportswear,
✓ Graphic Tees,
✓ Casual Tees,
✓ Cut & Sew Tees,
✓ Golf Polo shirts,
✓ Lounge Wear
✓ Casual Polo shirts,
✓ Rugby shirts,
✓ Joggers ... & many more.
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER
BUYER
Trims and accessories are decided queries for date of fabric
availability
Briefing sheet specifies
color, trims, sewing After approval material order form is
prepared Forwarded to sewing floor
trims, buttons,
to get dispatch date
embroidery etc.
KNP is released

BUYER
MERCHANDISING SAMPLING
DEPT Confirms date
Contract seal prepared which
Development specifies exact construction of the Order is placed
(3 – 4 weeks) product

MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER

BUYER Garment Order processing form yarn requisition is raised

Review & order Fabric technical hanger along At the same time the
placement with fabric swatch sent to buyer trims order is also
for approval placed
ESTEEMED CLIENTS
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Receive sample
Verify material / Receive materials Request trims from
request and
requisition from marketing store
material

Internal audit
In case of
rejection from Forward sample
Receive patterns Prepares samples
marketing to marketing
Remake sample
from first step

Receives buyers If sample

feedback with approved Hand over
comments from proceed, else approved sample
marketing repeat process
TYPES OF SAMPLES
◘ PROTO SAMPLE
First sample meant for look, actual fabric & trims not required,
could be revised as per buyers requirement
◘ FIT SAMPLE (BASE SIZE)
For exact construction & measurement, can be alternate fabric,
one sample of each color in medium size
◘ SIZE SET SAMPLE
Critical stage, decides order confirmation, two samples each in
color and size, one for buyer and one for department

◘ PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE (PPS) / CONTRACT SEAL / GOLD SEAL

meant for internal assessment,, 2-3 set in all color & sizes are sent
to buyer

◘ RACK SAMPLE
a random sample taken from the production line
PPC DEPARTMENT
PLANNING AND IMPROVEMENT CONTROL

Developing line plans Buyer specific floor merchants

Operation breakdown
GSD study Sends GOPF to all departments
Set target for each line
Communicate daily KNP progress
Daily feeding plan forwarded to sewing with buyer’s merchant
floor
Responsible for timely shipment
Device methods for improving
productivity
FABRIC STORE
TYPES OF GOODS INFRASTRUCTURE

Open width fabric on card board rolls Total floor area = 17.53 m x 22.86m
= 400.73m²
Tubular fabric in cutled form
Total number of racks 48 - 49

Capacity = 15 – 17 tones
Fabric
issued
Daily usage = 6 – 7tones
FABRIC
STORE Package type
Fabric
Rolls (open) = 20 – 25 kg
received Rectangular shape (tubular) = approx. 35 kg
SPREADING
AUTOMATIC SPREADING MANUAL SPREADING
(2 -3 PERSONS AT EACH TABLE) (CONTRACTUAL BASED)

SPREADING OF SRIPES
SPREADING OF SOLIDS
SOME TIMES OF SOLID

PROCESS PROCESS

Loading
Spread
of roll on Opening block
perforated
to the of roll cutting
paper
M/C

Insert
stripes to Spreading Match
locate roll Spreading of blocks stripes
change
CUTTING
STRAIGHT KNIFE
GERBER (AUTO CUTTER)
(MANUAL CUTTING)

PROCESS PROCESS

Spread Pattern
Moving lay to polythene placement Marking with
Gerber table sheet over on block chalk
the lay

pieces
pieces Run the sorted out
sorted out loaded marker according to Cutting using
according to plan in the the different straight knife
the different M/C rolls
rolls
HEAT TRANSFER AND FUSING
HEAT TRANSFER FUSING

Check specs
Moon patch Cut the rolls as per width mentioned in KNP sheet &
and
pieces quantity required for shift by using roll cutting machine
selecting
received from
appropriate
cutting
sticker

Load the fusing roll on machine stand

Temporary
attachment Placement
using hand using template
iron Place the cut on the on the machine bed

Final heat
transferring Sticker Align the fusing of fabric feed to conveyer
using removed
HASHIMA HP
Trim the fused of fabric using tied scissors in exit the
rear end
EMBROIDERY
There are 3 BARUDAN LTD. Embroidery machines
2 machines with 20 heads &
1 machine with 12 head

marking as per
Receive Receipt placement
instruction of cut given
sheet and panels instruction
pattern and trims sheet

load the Floppy Load framing

machine with transfer to with
framed embroidery canvas/fusing
panels to machine

Carry out Thread/canvas

embroidery /fusing cutting
operations checking
PRINTING DEPARTMENT
For single color
Efficiency is about 90%
And max. no of pieces they can print is 5000

Positive is on polyester
prepared mesh (frame) positive is
the screen is
referring photo emulsion mounted on the
dryed
spec coating is done, screen
sheet turns to screen

in the machine assembly goes to

itself after printing photo camera
there light washing as for device machine
attached with
emulsion which removing wet area where assembly
printing machine
tends to dry the (black area) gets exposing of
printing light

the printed panel after passing from test

goes to check as then online the panels are arranged
for placement of inspection with bundles and sent to
print and print embroidery or sewing
quality sections
SEWING & FINISHING
AMBER PLANT 7 lines capacity approx 4500 garments / day
VADSAR PLANT 11 lines ( 9 PBS& 2 UPS ) capacity approx. 12000 garments / day

PROCESS FLOW IN PROCESS FLOW IN

SEWING FINISHING

After inline inspection

Receipt of sewing plan from PPC

ironing
Sewing operations

Supervision and application of Final inspection

correct methods in sewing
folding
Inline inspection

Packing in polybag
Final inspection
Sent to audit
FINISHING, PACKING & DISPATCH
Line out Lot making audit

Special finish
tagging folding Dispatch
(if any)

Dead man fold Final checking polybagging External audit

Check for
Button
pressing metal storage
attaching
contamination

Pre press Alteration Carton making

Online audit
checking (if any) and packing
QUALITY AUDIT
AQL LEVEL OF BUYERS
Online audit
MARKS & SPENCER : 2.5
OUTER BANK : 2
Final internal audit ADIDAS & REEBOK : 1.5

External audit

AUDITING
PROCESS

failed passed
AUDIT

Final
Online audit
inspection
TWO CONCEPT PRODUCTION FACILITIES
• VADSAR - Designed for producing Casual wear / Cut & Sew Tee's &
Polo's

• AMBAR- Designed Specifically for producing Premium High End

Golf-wear and Sportswear
 OBSERVATION

LAY PLANNING SYSTEM

Problems in the system entry due to the

carelessness of the workers
 METHODOLOGY

✓ Following steps in lay planning

✓ Study on different formats used in the lay

planning

✓ Taken an random example of lot wise cut program

✓ Observing the manual way of filling formats

✓ Problems can arise due to not properly filling the

formats
 STEPS IN LAY PLANNING

⦿ Generating Fabric Requisition

⦿ Generating Cut Program
⦿ Generating Cut Numbers
⦿ Issuing Cut Program and Fabric
Requisition
⦿ Generating and Issuing Lay Information
Slip
Fabric Requisition
It consists of
the total
amount of
fabric that is
needed for a
particular Lot
wise Cut
Program.
Fabric Requisition

The various
rolls that are
issued to fulfill
the fabric
required are
listed according
to their weights.
Fabric Requisition

The roll no. of

the fabric rolls
is used to
identify the
rolls for a
particular lot
no.
 Lot Wise Cut Program

It consists of the K&P, style and lot numbers.

It includes the fabric consumption per garment and the
various size ratios
Cut no. generation program

The cut no. generation program is generated by

the system and it clearly states the number of plies
and marker length of each lay.
 Lay Information Slip

This has to be filled by the worker who is laying a particular cut

no.
 Lay Information Slip

It includes the roll no, roll width, roll weight and the no. of plies that were
spread from a particular roll for 1 cut no.
 Lay Information Slip

This sheet helps us to keep a record of all the rolls were used
for all the cut programs.
A RANDOM EXAMPLE

A random lot wise cut program was selected and all the
required formats of that program were checked to see if
the total fabric that is issued was actually used or not and
whether the entries done in the formats against the
system laid down in the manual were correct or not.
A total of 31 fabric rolls were issued in the
fabric requisition sheet
A total of 31 fabric rolls were issued in the
fabric requisition sheet
While the lay information slips showed :
While the lay information slips showed :

9
While the lay information slips showed :

9
5
While the lay information slips showed :

9
5
7
 While the lay information slips showed :

9
5
7
3
24
That only 24 fabric rolls were actually used
 Only 24 rolls were used compared
to the 31 rolls that were actually
issued. Therefore 7 rolls were
missing…….

9
5
7
3
24 7

31
When the total fabric consumption for the garment pieces actually cut was
calculated, it matched with the total fabric actually issued.
This leads to the conclusion that the workers have
spread more than 1 fabric roll together and have
done entry of only 1 roll. Therefore the rolls do not
have any record in the lay information slip and
hence seem to be missing.
Problems by this mistake…
Due to this mistake of entering
information of only 1 roll in place of 2 or
more in the lay information sheet, there
can be problem of shade variation in the
cut parts if there is roll to roll shade
variation. Since the bundle card is made
on the basis of the lay information slip,
now 1 bundle will contain cut parts of
more than 1 roll. Hence shade variation
in the cut parts and hence more
rejections.
Problems by of this mistake…

Due to this mistake, there will be problem

if an external auditor comes and checks
as this shows that the system entries are
not properly being followed.
Some more inconsistencies were
observed…
The same roll was entered in the lay information slip
for 2 different lays which is not possible.
Taking attention to the CUT NO. 43, there are ROLL NO ‘14’ & ROLL NO
‘9’ with other roll no.
Then in CUT NO. 45 (I), here once again there is ROLL NO ‘14’
Also in CUT NO. 45 (II), here also again there is ROLL NO ‘9’

Means,

The same roll was entered in the lay information slip for 2 different lays
which is not possible.
Overall there was due to the carelessness of the workers. There is
shade variation in the cut parts hence more rejections, which is not good
in the companies point of view.
STEPS TAKEN
✓ Provided the SOP to every worker & machine,

✓ Making aware to the workers about importance of quality,

✓ Unskilled or untrained workers should not be placed as an operator

in case of absenteeism,

✓ Supervisor must Check the formats time to time and must keep the
record,

✓ There should be random inspection audits to check formats filling,

✓ Indiscipline should be handled with stricter action,

✓ All mobile phones should be banned on the work floor.

THANK YOU