PART B
TROUBLE SHOOTING AND SERVICING
CONDUCTING EXPERIMENTS
23
Circuit Diagram
Visual inspection details (Pre-disassembly)
Test results (Pre-disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Test results (after disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Test results (after reassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Running test :
24
Ex. No. 9 Fluorescent Lamp
AIM : To assemble, connect and test the fluorescent lamp
REQUIREMENTS:
Tools/Instruments Materials
Insulated plier - 1 No. 230 V, 40 W fluorescent lamp - 1 No.
Screwdriver 8 cm - 1 No. Ballast (Choke) - 1 No.
Line tester 500 V - 1 No. Starter - 1 No.
Electrician's knife - 1 No. PVC wire 3/20 - as required.
Series Test Lamp - 1 No. PIC switch 500 V 5 amps - 2 Nos.
(230 V, 40 W) Single strand copper wire 0.9mm - as required.
Insulation Tape - as required.
PROCEDURE :
1. Test the given set for ground fault or open circuit etc.
2. Disconnect the set.
3. Check tube, ballast, starter and holders.
4. Replace any part if required.
5. Assemble the set.
6. Connect the set to the supply.
*****
25
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Table 1 Table 2
Details of Sodium vapour lamp Details of Sodium vapour lamp Ballast
Make……………………….. Make………………………..
Country…………………….. Country……………………..
Voltage……… Volts Voltage……… Volts
Wattage……… Watts Wattage……… Watts
RESULT :
Visual inspection details (Pre-disassembly)
Test results (Pre-disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Visual inspection details (after disassembly)
Test results (after disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Test results (after reassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Running test :
26
Ex. No. 10 Sodium Vapour Lamp
AIM : Assembling the given sodium vapour lamp with its accessories and test it.
REQUIREMENTS:
Materials
Tools/Instruments
Low pressure sodium vapour lamp with
Insulated plier - 1 No. - capacitor 2.5 MFD/380 V
Screwdriver 8 cm - 1 No.
- leakage transformer 400V
Line tester 500 V - 1 No.
- choke/ballast
Electrician's knife - 1 No.
- lamp-holder. - 1 No.
Series Test Lamp - 1 No.
(230 V, 40 W) OR
Spanner set - 1 No. Philips 50 N 250 W lamp for base E 40 with
Multimeter - 1 No. - capacitor
Megger - 1 No. - ignitor
- choke/ballast
- screw-type holder E40. - 1 No.
PROCEDURE :
1. Read the specification of the sodium vapour lamp (Fig 1) and record the readings in table 1.
2. Read the specification of the sodium vapour lamp ballast (Fig 1) and record the readings in
table 2.
3. Assemble the accessories (choke, leak transformer and lamp-holder) in the fitting.
Follow strictly the manufacturer's instructions.
Use the recommended type of termination only.
4. Choose the appropriate voltage tapping suitable to the supply voltage.
5. Fix the bulb in the holder.
Ensure the fitting Is properly earthed.
6. Test the working of the assembled fitting by connecting it to the mains.
7. Note the time taken for the bulb to give full illumi nation.
*****
27
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Fig. 1 Fig. 2A
Fig. 2B Fig. 2
Fig. 1 Fig. 2
28
Ex. No. 11 Electric Iron
AIM: Service and repair of automatic electric iron
REQUIREMENTS:
Tools/Instruments Equipment/Machines
Screwdriver 150mm - 1 No. Automatic electric iron box 750 W 250 V - 1 No.
Spanner set 6 to 22mm (6 Nos) - 1 Set
Megger 500 V - 1 No. Materials
Multimeter - 1 No.
- Iron Box Element 750 W/250 V - 1 No.
Electrician tool kit - 1 Set
- Asbestos sheet - as reqd.
Cutting plier 150mm - 1 No.
- fiber washers - as reqd.
Tester 500 V - 1 No.
- Test lamp 100W/240V - 1 No.
Nose piler 150 mm - 1 No.
- 3- core flexible cord (48/0.2 with
Megger 500 V - 1 No.
15A, 3 pin plug) - 1 No.
- Insulating material such as
asbestos and mica sheets
suitable for electric Iron - as reqd.
PROCEDURE :
1 Conduct a visual examination of the power cord and plug, after interpreting the name plate
details
2 Conduct preliminary test for - short circuit, continuity & insulation - earth fault - defective
element circuit
3 Replace the cord, if necessary
4 Check for the insulation resistance between line terminal of the iron and the body of the iron
(Fig 1) and record in Table 1.
Disconnect the indicator bulb if any before the short, open and IR test.
Always disconnect the iron from supply while testing with insulation tester / Megger.
5 Check for insulation resistance between the neutral terminal and earth.
6 Connect the electric iron to the mains and check for its working
7 Check the presence of dangerous voltage existing between the body and earth of the supply
with a neon tester or voltmeter.
In case of earth fault
8 Disconnect the electric iron from the supply, dismantle it. Visually inspect and test with a
multi-meter/megger for any contact of live wire with the body
- insulation failure
- broken parts
- damaged thermostat/actuating leaf porcelain
- switch actuator.
- Check for continuity of thermostat and heating element.
9 Rectify the fault by replacing the defective part (element, thermostat etc.) Fig 2 (A & B).
29
RESULT :
Visual inspection details (Pre-disassembly)
Test results (Pre-disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Visual inspection details (after disassembly)
Test results (after disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Test results (after reassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Running test :
30
In case of open in element circuit
10 Remove the cover to check the thermostat, indicator bulb circuit and element
- Connect the series test lamp to the element circuit shorting the contacts of the thermostat
indicated by 1 in Fig 3. If the test lamp glows the thermostat is defective.
- Connect the terminals of the indicating bulb by a piece of insulating wire, shown by 2 in
Fig 3. If the test lamp glows the trouble is in this section.
- Short the terminals of the element shown by 3 in Fig 3. If the lamp glows the element is
open. Replace the element.
Failure of temperature setting controller
11 Check the adjusting knob for proper fixing and actuation of shaft. (Fig 4)
12 Open the contacts of the thermostat and inspect them visually.
13 Clean the pitted or burnt out contacts.
14 Check for the actuating mechanism. (Heat the thermostat by a suitable external heating
device.)
15 Assemble the iron and test for good working.
====
31
Circuit diagram
TABLE 1 : Details of table fan
Manufacturer's name…………………………. Country………………………….
Trade name…………………………. ............. Serial No. ………………………….
Voltage …………V frequency………Hz Type : AC/DC
Input/watts………W Oscillating mechanism : Yes/No r.p.m…………
Size of fan(Sweep) …………mm . Number of blades ……… Class of Insulation………
Type of regulator …………… Type of bearing…………… Bearing No………………
Visual inspection details (Pre-disassembly)
32
Ex. No. 12 Table Fan
AIM: To Service a Table Fan
REQUIREMENTS:
Tools/Instruments Materials
spanners, screwdrivers – different type Sheet metal tray for components
and sizes Cotton cloth
Punches, hammer etc - as required Kerosene
Cutting plier, nose plier etc – as required Sleeves
Brush for cleaning
Multimeter - 1 No.
Megger 500V/1000V - 1 No. Winding accessories (If needed)
Winding wire – suitable
Equipment/Machines Slot insulation – suitable
Varnish
Table fan - 1 No.
PROCEDURE :
1. Read any special instructions given by the manufacturer. Record the available name-plate
details of the table.
2. Remove the guard from the fan body after loosening the guard clamps .
3. Loosen the lock screw indicated as in Fig 1 of the fan blade and remove the blade assembly
from the shaft.
4. Make the identification punch marks on the body as well as the corresponding position on the
front and rear end covers of the table fan. Marking should be such that the same end cover
is fitted to the same side of the body while assembling.
5 Remove the oscillation mechanism lever screws. (Fig 1)
6 Unscrew and remove the rear guard and end nuts.
7 Remove the end covers. (Fig 1)
8 Remove the rotor from the stator without damaging the stator coils.
9 Check the bearing for its proper function. If there is any end play replace the bearings.
10 Clean the winding of the fan.
11. Check all parts for damage or wear. Repair or replace as necessary.
12. Measure the insulation resistance. Dry out until correct value is obtained if needed.
13. If necessary, replace any damaged windings.
14. Re-enamel or re-varnish all windings, if needed.
15. Re-assemble without using any excessive force. Make sure that the machine leads are on the
correct terminals and that everything is well tightened.
16. Check the insulation resistance again.
33
Test results (Pre-disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Visual inspection details (after disassembly)
Test results (after disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Test results (after reassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Running test :
34
17. Check the air gaps. See that rotor is not touching the stator.
18. Put back to work after making all checks and applying all rules as for initial starting.
*****
TROUBLESHOOTING
A. A Fan is not running.
1. Check the socket outlet for the availability of supply. Remove the bottom inspection cover.
2. Check the continuity of the power cord.
3. Check the regulator switch assembly. (Fig 2) Rectify if any fault is observed.
4. Ensure free rotation of the fan with your hand. Find the cause and rectify if it is too tight
(bearing assembly, foreign body etc.).
5. Check the capacitor. Replace, if defectives (Fig 1) Rectify loose connections if any.
6. Check the winding for continuity and insulation. (Fig 2) Send it for rewinding, if necessary.
B. Fan is noisy. (Fig 1)
1 Collect the history and nature of noise of the fan from the user.
2 Run the fan and observe the noise.
3 Identify the noise and find out if the noise is due to one or a combination of the following.
Loose element of the blade.
Loose or missing screws.
Lack of lubrication or dirt in bearing.
Worn out bush.
Blade distortion/breakage.
Alignment of blades.
Loosely fitted guards.
C Fan not oscillating.
1 Check the compression stud, worm gear and pinion. (Fig 1)
2 Check the spur gear for broken teeth.
3 Check for a bent rotor shaft.
4 Check the spur gear pin for proper setting. If it is loose, either knurl the end slightly and press it
into place or replace the complete gear assembly.
D Fan has magnetic hum.
1 Check the air gap for unevenness. If it is incorrect, check for correct fitting of the end-shields as
per the markings.
2 Check armature for a bent shaft.
3 Check for worn out or loose bearing fit. If bearings are defective, replace them. When replacing,
clean the gear case of all old grease. The bearing swivel stud washers and rotor shaft should be
lubricated with a light film of SAE-30 motor oil.
E Bearings of the oscillating mechanism rattle.
1 Check for worn out bearings, particularly at the fan blade side.
2 Check the rotor for excessive wear.
3 Check for proper grease. Clean out the gear case and replace with the grease recommended in
the service manual.
F Oscillating mechanism is noisy.
1. Excessive end play between the compression stud and the cover may be th e cause of this
noise. To prevent excessive end play, use spacers between the compression stud and worm gear.
*****
35
TABLE 1 : Details of ceiling fan
Manufacturer's name…………………………. Country………………………….
Trade name…………………………. ............. Serial No. ………………………….
Voltage …………V frequency………Hz Type : AC/DC
Input/watts………W r.p.m………… Size of fan(Sweep)…………mm
Number of blades ……… Class of Insulation………
Type of regulator …………… Type of bearing…………… Bearing No………………
Bearing make ...............................................
Visual inspection details (Pre-disassembly) Test results (after disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Test results (Pre-disassembly)
Other tests :
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Test results (after reassembly)
Other tests :
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Visual inspection details (after
disassembly) Other tests :
Running test :
36
Ex. No. 13 Ceiling Fan
AIM: To Service a Ceiling Fan
REQUIREMENTS:
Tools/Instruments Materials
spanners, screwdrivers – different type Sheet metal tray for components
and sizes Cotton cloth
Punches, hammer etc – as required Kerosene
Cutting plier – as required Sleeves
Nose plier – as required Brush for cleaning
Multimeter – 1 No.
Megger 500V/1000V – 1 No. Winding accessories (If needed)
Winding wire – suitable
Equipment/Machines Slot insulation – suitable
Varnish
Ceiling fan 1200 mm sweep - 1 No.
Fan capacitor - ____ Farads, ____ V
PROCEDURE :
1. Note the name-plate details of the ceiling fan and enter them in Table 1.
2. Unscrew the fasteners and remove the fan blade. Keep the fan blade and fasteners in a safe
place.
3. Observe the connections in the terminal box. Mark them in a separate sheet of paper and
disconnect the connections.
4. Remove the rotor from the stator without damaging the stator coils. Keep all the machine
screws and loose parts in a separate tray.
5. Check the bearing for its proper function. If there is any end play replace the bearings.
6. Clean the winding of the fan.
7. Check all parts for damage or wear. Repair or replace as necessary.
8. Measure the insulation resistance. Dry out until correct value is obtained if needed.
9. If necessary replace any damaged windings.
10. Re-enamel or re-varnish all windings, if needed.
11. Re-assemble without using any excessive force. Make sure that the machine leads are on the
correct terminals and that everything is well tightened.
12. Check the insulation resistance again.
13. Check the air gaps. See that rotor is not touching the stator.
14. Check the capacitor. Change it if not functioning properly.
15. Put back to work after making all checks and applying all rules as for initial starting.
*****
37
Circuit Diagram
Details of Mixer/Grinder
38
Ex. No. 14 Mixer Grinder
AIM : Servicing and repairing of mixer/grinder machine
REQUIREMENTS :
Tools/Instruments Materials
Insulated plier - 1 No. Mixer/grinder 0.25 H.P.230 V, 50 Hz - as required.
Screwdriver 8 cm - 1 No. Grease - as required.
Line tester 500 V - 1 No. Kerosene - as required.
Electrician's knife - 1 No. Brush - as required.
Series Test Lamp - 1 No. Sandpaper - as required.
(230 V, 40 W) Insulation Tape - as required.
Spanner set - 1 No.
PROCEDURE:
1. Note down the name-plate details in Table 1. Open the bottom cover
2. Open the bottom cover and conduct visual inspection for
damages in the supply cord
good condition of switches
proper mounting of the motor.
3. Conduct an insulation test of the motor and record in table 2.
(a) Improve the insulation value by heating or varnishing if the insulation value is less than
0.5 m ohms.
(b) If the motor is opened for varnishing, thoroughly clean the stator and armature and
bearing of the mixer. (Fig 1)
4. Conduct the insulation test after varnishing.
5. Lubricate the bearing as recommended by the manufacturer before assembly.
6. Clean the commutator surface. A black carbon deposit indicates sparking at it. Seat the
bushes properly over the commutator. Check for adequate length of bushes to exert spring
pressure.
7. Assemble the motor and tighten the terminal screws.
8. Assemble the blade with the jar and nylon coupling at the bottom.
9. Connect the motor to the supply and start the mixer.
10. Observe the working of the mixer for smooth running.
*****
39
Visual inspection details (Pre-disassembly)
Test results (Pre-disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Visual inspection details (after disassembly)
Test results (after disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Test results (after reassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Running test :
Table 2 : Insulation Testing Data
Insulation resistance
Between terminal Between
and body windings
Before varnishing/heating.
After varnishing/heating.
Date of servicing.
Recommended repair.
Replacement, if any.
40
TROUBLE SHOOTING
1. Mixer is not working
* Check whether there are open connections in the line. Rectify the fault if observed.
* Check for any open circuit in the mixer motor winding. Send it for repairs if open circuited.
(Fig 2)
* Check the contacts of the carbon bush and spring', rectify or replace if found defective.
(Fig 2)
* Check if the field coil winding is open. (Fig 2). Send for repair (rewinding) if possible.
* Check the tightness of the blade. Replace the washer and nut. (Fig 1)
* Check whether the fault is due to tight bush bearings by turning the shaft with your hand.
* If adding oil does not help, bush bearings must be replaced. (Fig 1)
2. Will not start but will run either direction when started.
* Check the connection of the carbon bush if the connection is changed as per Fig 2. Repair.
* Check the field wiring; if found open rectify it or send it for repairs.
3. Starts but heats rapidly.
* Check the commutator surface and undercut between segments. If it is not opening rectify
or replace.
* Check the segment connection if it is open. Rectify by solder if it is not possible to replace.
* Check the field winding. If it is short circuited or grounded send it for repair.
4. Reduction in power - motor gets too hot.
* Check the winding for its short circuiting and grounding (earthing).
* Check the bush bearing if it is sticky or tight. Repair or replace it found defective.
* Check the blade(inside the jar) if it is sticky or tight. Repair or replace if found defective.
5. Mixer is noisy.
* Check for worn out bearings. Replace the bearing and inspect the shaft for shearing.
* Lubricate the bearing.
* Check the jar play; check the armature play preventing washers if the play is too much.
* Check the loose parts (that is loose blade, motor bolt, jar screws) tighten.
* Check whether there is misassembling. Correctly reassemble it.
* Check the shaft of the mixer motor. Replace or send the motor for repair if the shaft is
found bent.
6. Mixer produces shock.
* Open the bottom cover and check for any line (tighten them) contact with the metallic
body. Also ensure earthing is proper.
* Rectify the accidental contacts if any and insulate properly.
*****
41
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
42
Ex. No. 15 Electric Geyser
AIM : Service and repair of a geyser
REQUIREMENTS:
Tools/Instruments Equipment/Machines
Screwdriver 150mm - 1 No. - Geyser 1500W 250V 25 liters - 1 No.
Spanner set 6 to 22mm (6 Nos) - 1 Set
Megger 500 V - 1 No. Materials
Multimeter - 1 No.
Electrician tool kit - 1 Set - Geyser heating element
Cutting plier 150mm - 1 No. 1500W, 240V - 1 No.
Tester 500 V - 1 No. - Geyser thermostat - 1 No
Nose piler 150 mm - 1 No. - Asbestos sheet - as reqd.
Megger 500 V - 1 No. - fiber washers - as reqd.
- Test lamp 100W/240V - 1 No.
- 3- core flexible cord (48/0.2 with
15A, 3 pin plug) - 1 No.
- Insulating material such as
asbestos and mica sheets
suitable for electric geyser - as reqd.
PROCEDURE :
1. Record the details of the appliances in Table 2
2. Open the inspection cover for electrical terminals connection and thermostat installation in the geyser after
removing the power plug. (Fig a)
Check and ensure that the switch is off before removing the power plug
3. Connect a visual examination of the i) power cord ii) plug pin termination and iii) termination at appliance.
4. Check for proper tightness and good electrical contact at terminations. Replace the plug pin if found pitted.
5. Conduct the insulation test on the cord - between the leads, lead and earth. Enter in Table 1
6. Measure the insulation resistance between the element and the earth/body and record in Table 1. The
minimum value of the insulation resistance should be one megohm. If it is less than one megohm, send the
geyser for repair and rectification.
7. Connect the geyser to the supply and switch on the appliance, keeping the inspection/bottom cover of the
electrical connections open.
The geyser should be switched on only with water in the container.
8. Observe that the heating process is cut off by the actuation of the thermostat. (The time depends on the
capacity of the geyser and the thermostat setting).
9. Switch off the supply. Remove the plug. Measure the insulation resistance value between the terminals and
the body of the heater/thermostat while it is hot and record the value in Table 1
10. Replace the thermostat if unit in the insulation value is less than one megohm.
11. Refit the inspection cover. If the insulation value is normal (i.e. above one megohm) apply grease over the
screw before fitting.
43
RESULT :
Visual inspection details (Pre-disassembly)
Test results (Pre-disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Visual inspection details (after disassembly)
Test results (after disassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Test results (after reassembly)
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Running test :
44
Troubleshooting :
Nature of fault
1 No hot water :
Check for the undermentioned causes in the given sequence.
a No power
b Defective thermostat
c Thermostat out of calibration
d Defective heater element
i) No power
- Check the fuse of the circuit, and replace the fuse, if blown.
- Check the availability of power at the socket outlet using a test lamp
- Open the inspection cover and check the cord for its continuity. Replace the cord, if necessary.
Switch off the supply and remove the plug before opening the cover.
ii) Defective thermostat :
- Check the thermostat for continuity between its terminals at different settings.
- Replace the defective thermostat with a good one.
- No continuity between the terminals indicates defectiveness.
iii) Thermostat cut off calibration :
- Adjust the thermostat for a higher setting.
- If the thermostat is found to be good, switch ON supply.
- Observe the fuse.
iv) Defective element :
- Check the element for its continuity and insulation value between the terminal and the body (sheathing of the
element).
- Replace the defective heating element with an identical good one . Switch on the supply and observe.
2 Water too hot
Check for the undermentioned causes.
a Thermostat set too high
b Defective thermostat
i) Check the setting of the thermostat and adjust it to a lower value. Switch on the geyser. Wait for the
thermostat to cut off the supply, or for about 20 minutes. Open the inlet. Collect the water at the outlet and
measure the hot water temperature.
ii) If the water temperature is much higher than the set value of the thermostat, replace the thermostat with a
good one. If the temperature of the hot water is close to the range setting of thermostat it indicates a defective
setting as the only cause.
3 Water not hot enough
Check for the undermentioned causes.
a Thermostat set too low
b incorrect heater element
c Excessive lime in tank
i) Check the thermostat setting and adjust it to a higher value. If the geyser produces hot water with the
resetting, then the earlier setting was wrong.
ii) Check and test the wattage of the heating element. If it shows a lower value, replace it with a higher wattage
element.
iii) Remove the heating element, inspect the element and the inner side of the copper vessel for deposit of
excess lime coating. In case the heating element is of correct wattage, and the thermostat is properly set
remove the lime coating.
Drain the water from the container of the geyser before removing the element.
== - ==
45
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Fig 1
Fig 2
RESULT :
Test results (after disassembly)
Visual inspection details (Pre-
disassembly) Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Test results (Pre-disassembly)
Test results (after reassembly)
Continuity test :
Continuity test :
Ground fault test :
Ground fault test :
Other tests :
Other tests :
Running test :
Visual inspection details (after
disassembly)
46
Ex. No. 16 Induction Heater
AIM : Service and repair of induction heater.
REQUIREMENTS:
Equipment/Machines
Tools/Instruments
• Induction heater 1 kW, 250V - 1 No.
• Electrician Tool Kit - 1 Set
• Screwdriver 250 mm - 1 No.
• Connector screwdriver 150mm - 1 No.
Materials
• Electrician Knife 150 mm - 1 No.
• Metal brush - 1 No. • Cotton waste - as reqd.
• Soldering iron 60W, 230V - 1 No. • Thinner - as reqd.
• Tile cutter - 1 No. • Resin core solder - as reqd.
• Multimeter - 1 No.
PROCEDURE :
1 Note the name plate details of the induction heater and record them in the Table.
2 Disconnect the power supply from the induction heater.
3 Check the power cord for continuity of the cable.
If found defective, replace the power cord.
4 Open the induction heater.
5 Do a thorough cleaning of PCB and other parts.
6 Remove the main board for visual inspection and trouble shooting.
7 Check whether PCB is covered by varnish.
8 Apply thinner and rub with metal brush and scrap with a knife and expose the dry solder points. (Fig 1)
9 Retouch all the points with fresh solder.
10 Check whether any capacitor cracked in the PCB (Fig 2). If so remove it from the PCB with the help of tile cutter.
11 Check the electrolytic capacitors on the board and replace with a new one if they are found at the brim.
12 Press the switches on the control board and if they show resistance, it may be due to improper contact.
13 Replace all the Press-to-on button switches.
If buttons are slightly longer than the one on the board, nip the extra length with tile cutter tool
14 After completing the work put the PCB and other parts back into the cabinet,
15 Test the appliances with supply for its working.
------
47
