Summary of Linear Wave Equations
• Velocity potential
2𝜋
𝑇 cosh ℎ+𝑧 2𝜋𝑥 2𝜋𝑡
𝐿
𝜙 = −𝑔𝐻 sin −
4𝜋 2𝜋 𝐿 𝑇
cosh ℎ
𝐿
• Surface elevation with time, from the still water level (referred to as
excursion)
𝐻 𝑥 𝑡 𝐻
𝜂 = cos 2 𝜋 − = cos 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡
2 𝐿 𝑇 2
• Dispersion equation is then given by 𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ where wave
number, 𝑘 = 2𝜋Τ𝐿 and wave frequency, 𝜔 = 2𝜋Τ𝑇
• The wave celerity, is found as 𝐶 =
𝑔𝑇 𝑔𝐿
tanh 2𝜋ℎΤ𝐿 = tanh 2𝜋ℎΤ𝐿
2𝜋 2𝜋
Known as the dispersion relation:
It indicates that waves with different periods travel with different
wave speeds.
• To satisfy the periodicity requirement
Wave number, 𝑘 = 2𝜋Τ𝐿
and
wave frequency, 𝜔 = 2𝜋Τ𝑇
• Wave Length as a function of depth and wave period may be
obtained as
𝑔𝑇 𝑔𝑇
𝐿= tanh 𝑘ℎ = tanh 𝑘ℎ
2𝜋 𝜔
• The dispersion equation is then given by
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ
• This may be solved iteratively, for the wave number and hence
wavelength and celerity given the wave period and depth.
Deep Water Approximation
• In deep water, waves are unaffected by the depth,
and have little influence on the sea bed.
• For ℎ/𝐿 > 0.5, tanh(𝑘ℎ) ≈ 1, Hence
1ൗ
𝑔𝑇 𝑔𝐿𝑜 2
𝐶𝑜 = =
2𝜋 2𝜋
• subscript o refers to deep water variables.
• In deep water wave celerity and wavelength are
solely determined by wave period.
3
Shallow Water Approximation
• For shallow water ℎ/𝐿 < 0.04, tanh(𝑘ℎ) ≈
2𝜋ℎ/𝐿.
𝑔𝑇ℎ
𝐶= = 𝑔ℎ
𝐿
• shallow water wave celerity is determined by
depth, and not by wave period.
• Shallow water waves are not frequency
dispersive whereas deep water waves are.
4
Intermediate (or Transitional) Water
Approximation
• This is the zone between deep water and
shallow water: 0.5 > ℎ/𝐿 > 0.04. In this zone
tanh(𝑘ℎ) < 1: hence
𝑔𝑇
𝐶= tanh 𝑘ℎ = 𝐶𝑜 tanh 𝑘ℎ < 𝐶𝑜
2𝜋
• This has important consequences, exhibited in
the phenomenon of refraction and shoaling.
5
Graph to determine intermediate & shallow water values for various wave
parameters occurring frequently in water wave calculations.
6
3.3 An Introduction to Engineering
Wave Properties
• Linear wave theory provides the basis for applications to various
problems of engineering interest.
• Example → Calculation of forces on bodies depend on:
– Water Particle Kinematics
– Pressure field within the waves
• Example → To determine wave transformation as they approach
the shore while encountering shallow water
3.3.1 Water Particle Kinematics for
Progressive Waves
• Consider a progressive wave with water
surface displacement:
𝐻
𝜂 = cos 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡
2
• The associated velocity potential
𝐻 𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙=− sin 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
3.3.1.1 Particle Velocity Components
• Horizontal and vertical velocity components under the wave is
𝜕∅ 𝐻 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝑢=− = 𝜔 cos 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡
𝜕𝑥 2 sinh 𝑘ℎ
𝜕∅ 𝐻 sinh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝑤=− = 𝜔 sin 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡
𝜕𝑧 2 sinh 𝑘ℎ
• Horizontal and vertical local accelerations are:
𝜕𝑢 𝐻 2 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
= 𝜔 sin 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡
𝜕𝑡 2 sinh 𝑘ℎ
𝜕𝑤 𝐻 2 sinh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
=− 𝜔 cos 𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡
𝜕𝑡 2 sinh 𝑘ℎ
• Horizontal and vertical velocity • Maximum vertical acceleration
components as a function of as the horizontal velocities are
position 90o show that they are extremes.
out of phase. • Maximum horizontal
• Extreme horizontal velocity under acceleration as the vertical
the crest and trough position. velocities are extremes.
• Extreme vertical velocity where
water surface displacement is zero.
Water particle velocities in a progressive wave.
3.3.1.2 Particle Displacement
• Water particle with mean
position 𝑥1 , 𝑧1 will be displaced
by wave induced water
pressures.
• So Instantaneous water particle
position is 𝑥1 + 𝜍, 𝑧1 + 𝜉 .
• Displacement components 𝜍, 𝜉
are found by integrating
corresponding velocity with
respect to time.
𝐻 cosh 𝑘 ℎ+𝑧1
𝜁 𝑥1 , 𝑧1 , 𝑡 = − sin 𝑘𝑥1 − 𝜔𝑡
2 sinh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻 sinh 𝑘 ℎ+𝑧1
𝜉 𝑥1 , 𝑧1 , 𝑡 = cos 𝑘𝑥1 − 𝜔𝑡
2 sinh 𝑘ℎ
Approximations
• Rewriting the particle displacements
𝜁 𝑥1 , 𝑧1 , 𝑡 = −𝐴 sin 𝑘𝑥1 − 𝜔𝑡
𝜉 𝑥1 , 𝑧1 , 𝑡 = 𝐵 cos 𝑘𝑥1 − 𝜔𝑡
𝐻 cosh 𝑘 ℎ+𝑧1 𝐻 sinh 𝑘 ℎ+𝑧1
where 𝐴 = and 𝐵 =
2 sinh 𝑘ℎ 2 sinh 𝑘ℎ
• Squaring and adding 𝜁 𝑥1 , 𝑧1, 𝑡 and 𝜉 𝑥1 , 𝑧1, 𝑡 yields the equation
of the ellipse
2 2
𝜁 𝜉
+ =1
𝐴 𝐵
with semiaxes 𝐴 and 𝐵 in the 𝑥-𝑧 direction, respectively,
where A is always greater than or equal to B.
• At the locations of the mean water level, the water particles
with mean elevation z=0, follow a closed trajectory with
vertical displacement 𝐻Τ2;that is, these particles comprise
the surface.
• There are no water particles with mean locations higher
than 𝑧 = 0.
• In deep water
𝐻 𝑘𝑧
𝐴= 𝑒 1
2
𝐵=𝐴
• Particles move in an almost closed
circular path.
• At wave crest, particles move in the
same direction as wave.
• At wave trough, particles move in
opposite direction.
• At the surface, the orbital diameter
corresponds to the wave height.
• Diameter decreases exponentially with
increasing depth, until at roughly equal
to half the wavelength, the orbital
diameter is negligible, and there is
virtually no displacement.
• Orbits are only
approximately circular.
• There is a small net
component of forward
motion in the direction of
wave travel.
• The small net forward
displacement of water in
the direction of wave
travel is known as wave
drift.
Particle motion in large deep-water waves
showing wave drift.
• In shallow water
𝐻𝑇 𝑔
𝐴=
4𝜋 ℎ
𝐻 𝑧1
𝐵= 1+
2 ℎ
• the orbits become progressively flattened with depth.
Elliptical form of water particle trajectory
Example 5
• A wave with a period 𝑇 = 8 sec, in a water
depth 𝑑 = 15 m (49 ft), and a height 𝐻 =
5.5 m (18.0 ft). Find the local horizontal and
vertical velocities 𝑢 and 𝑤, and accelerations
at an elevation 𝑧 = −5 m (or 𝑧 = −16.4 ft)
below the SWL (still water level) when 𝜃 =
2𝜋𝑥 Τ𝐿 − 2𝜋𝑡Τ𝑇 = 60𝑜 .
Example 6
• A wave in a depth 𝑑 = 12 m ( 39.4 ft), height 𝐻 = 3 m
(9.8 ft), and a period 𝑇 = 10 sec. The corresponding
deepwater wave height is 𝐻𝑜 = 3.13m (10.27 ft). Find
a) The maximum horizontal and vertical displacement of a
water particle from its mean position when 𝑧 = 0 and
𝑧 = −𝑑.
b) The maximum water particle displacement at an
elevation 𝑧 = −7.5 m (-24.6 ft) when the wave is in
infinitely deep water.
c) For the deep water conditions of (b) above, show that
the particle displacements are small relative to the
wave height when 𝑧 = − 𝐿𝑜 Τ2.
