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ShopNotes #96

Revista de carpintería #96

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Hector
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405 views52 pages

ShopNotes #96

Revista de carpintería #96

Uploaded by

Hector
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
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| STRONG & STURDY DRAWER JOINTS — Mult Purpose Disk Sander “16 AA disk sander is a great addition to any shop. This sander features adjustable speeds, a Jiting table, and low-cost MOF construction, ‘And the top pivats to provide quick access to accessories that mount on the rear shaft we nd wor Custom Chisel Case. Siore your chiseis and fine tools in style with this handy, waltmounted case, You' have easy access to any chisel, while other items are stored neally away behind a closed door. hands-on technique Block Plane Tips & Techniques 34 Learn how to get the most fram your block plane with these tips and techniques. douilt jigs & fixtures . Sliding Flole-Down EEE 3s Ti ey eT fiat against the table. Then it automatically reteases to slide with the workpiece. Departments Readers’ Tips 4 A Quick and Sturdy Drawer Joint KORE 3 wer joinery that’s (as isa drawer joint bit, Choosing & Using Bit & Blade Cleaners _ 10 Learn how to keep your saw blades and bits clean for batter performance, jigs & acco 5 Combination Square Quick Tips 2 A combination square is one to! that wil uarantee better layouts and results, We over the basics ofusing this versatle 00) hands-on Super: Strong Draw-Bolt Joinery For rock-solid construction, its hard to beat @ raw-bolt joint. Here's how to do it right. ShopNotes No. 96 = E- le of ape ad i ares nd prj that wl make you a better woodwarker, and this sue is no exception. But [want to tell you about an exciting, new project we've been ‘working on —a TV show. For the past several months, we've been ‘working overtime in our shop to create an all-new woodworking television show. It's called The Woodlsmith Shop. Each episode focuses on the techniques and tips you can use to get more out of the time you spend in your shop. Our hope is ppublictelevision stations across the country will decide to air the show. If they do, you ‘could start seeing it on your local public television station sometime in 2008, ‘Tofind out more about the show, go online to www.WoodsmithShop.com. Shop onort Cuts = es 2 ens op Shopesied tps and techniques 1 solve your OM We shopped around at some woodworking problems, 30 Mes hy i Must-Have Shop Supplies 42 sual places Tsayralt oulow and found a few unique products that deserve B alsioctiod «a place in your shop. I2AUELE wn Sheptcts com setting up shop ; ae Sharpening Organizers a | See ma Take the hassle out of sharpening with any of these one-of-a-kind sharpening projects. ng the table saw Jointing on the Table Saw 46 ‘No joiner, no wories. All you needs your table saw and a simple, shop-bul auxiliary fence. great gear The Router Wizard Pro 48 This accessory works like magic to turn your router into the most versatile too! in your shop. OxA 50 eos Soames Sources 8 Rah een eee wwwShopNotes.com 3 mt Readers Pipe Clamp Risers In my small shop, I'm always is one way to do just looking for ways to use the space that. A couple of pipe moreeifciently and get maximum clamps are used fo cre- use out of my tools. This sawhorse _atean adjustable-height platformn, {as you can see in the photo above. This gives me more flexbility thana traditional sawhorse, Adding the adjustable platform. tomy sawhorse was fairly simple, I started by drilling 1}6"-dia holes through the top of my sawhorse. Thisis the right diameter to fit the most ee ) ‘you take a look atthe box on the ‘opposite page, youl find some pointers to solve the problem. ‘THE FRONT AND BACK With your stack of drawer parts ready (including afew test pieces), ‘you begin routing the joinery on the drawer front and back. ‘The important thing here is to position the fence correctly. You ‘want the width ofthe cut to match the thickness of the sides. So here's the first shorteut: To avoid mea- suing errors, use one ofthe side pieces as a setup gauge (left inset ‘onthe facing page) Routing. Once this is taken care cf, you're ready to staré routing, ‘There area couple of things to keep inmind as you do this. First, you'll want to hold the workpiece flat against the router table, The other thing is to use a backer board. (I use a scrap piece ‘of MDF) It helps prevent chipout as the bit exits the workpiece and ithelps keep the workpiece square to the router table fence. ShopNotes No. 96 ©: Hold the backer board i to the workpiece while pressing lightly against the fence, as in left photo above. When you ‘made a cut inea ing the other half of the joint SIDES Routing the drawer sides di can see in the right photo abov Set the Fence. But first, you need to adjust the fence. (Rem: ber the bit height stays the same.) Your aim here is to create a notch. that fits snugly in the profile routed in the front and back, ch end of the front and back, you can mave on to rot rent than routing the front and back. The main difference is that the sides are held on end, as you << Frontand Back. For a perfect fi, ise a drawer side a5 @ gai the position of the router table fence, ight Rout the Sides, The only adjustment you need tomake to rout the sides (sto move the fence. The fence should be flush with lower cutting edge of the bit, as shown in the inset photo at left To do this, you want to set the side square to the table and backs Backer piece fence yo that only the wide, upper up the cut to prevent tearout. This should bo same the section of the drawer joint bit is piece i the same thickness as the — thickness as u've doing the cutting, drawer sce to accommodate the \\ awe side nthe ght inset photo above, second pice. The second part of you can see a shortcut for this the push block captures the work setup. I use a metal ruler to align piece and holds it against the fence the fence flush with the lower cut- soit won't tip away ting edge of the router bit, wgedge inal Steps. With the joinery Supporting the Workpiece, wrapped up, you can cut a groove Once you have the fence set up and fitthe drawer bottom, Then all correctly, all you'll need to do is that’s lefts to glue up the drawer. make a pass on each end of the 1 think you'll find assembling two side pieces. The trouble is, thedrawerwill go pretty smoothly. holding a narrow drawer side on The shape of the joint causes it ’ eee can be ricky, to pull itself together as you 2 To solve this problem, I made tighten the clamps, What gf 2 two-piew push block, as you you end up wilh ba ent paie Yo can seein the night margin. The sturdy drawer that wil ff onal upright piece keeps the drawer last ifetime, & vee ing It cE ! _i A There's a Gap. Ifyou see A The Joint Won't Close .g2p along the beveled faces, Here's the opposite probiem Adjusting the bit heights is If the joint wont close tightly, the answer. In this situation, the bit is set too fow. wwrwShopNotes.com the bit és too high and you'll need to fower ft A Recessed Side. The trouble A Proud Side. Thefence isthe ‘here is with the fence position. culpritagain. To get the pieces ‘Move the fence forward to aligned, the fence needs to take a lighter cut when cutting be moved back before routing the drawer front and back. the front and back. | | Pt Harlan Just like any other tool in the shop, saw blades and router bits get dirty. The result — ragged cuts and burned edges. The solu- tion to many of these problems is often just a simple cleaning, There are all kinds of products available for cleaning saw blades and router bits, from commercial versions to a few home brews you may have heard about. But finding one that works quickly and efficiently can be a challenge. compared several de: found some that work well and fa few that didn’t do quite as well (chart on opposite page). For more ‘where to get some ofthese cleaners, refer to Sources on page 51 ers and A Before. Resin builds up 0 shoulders and guilets of a biac 4s well as the cutting edge. the w ‘ith cleaning rn ‘A Word of Caution. Before you decide on a product to use, you should know that lye-based clean- crs like oven cleaner, aren't recom mended for use on earbide-tipped blades and bits. The lye breaks down the cobalt binders used to hold the carbide together. This causes a blade to dull more quickly and more carbide will need to be taken off during the sharpen- ing process, reducing the life of the blade. Lye also could remove the non-stick coating and printing, Safeguard the Bearing. There's just one mote thing before you clean any router bits. The cleaning fluid can seep into a bearing and break down the lubricant. If this A After. A good cleaner will remove resin without much scrub- bing with a brush or pad. Tappera fe Sere ond ave tobe replaced, Sobe ture to remove the bearing before you start The Right Tools. Selecting a cleanerisjustone step in the pro cess. To get started you'll need ‘There are pans made specifically for cleaning saw blades. But several things you may already have on hand will work, like the lid from a bucket of drywall mudi or aclean, oil pan. A small plastic tub or dish will hold cleaning fluid for bits You'll also need a small brass brush, a synthetic cleaning pad, and some type of rust inhibitor. Cleaning. Now that you have all your tools assembled, you can start fo work on removing the pitch and resin, Depending on the type of product you choose you'll need to cither spray or soak the blade or bit. Once the cleaner has time to react with the resin, remove the blade from the solution and serub with a synthetic pad. A synthetic pad will help remove zesin from bits and saw blades, but won't remove metal like steel wool does, If any resin remains, use the brass brush to remove it, something to work in. ShopNotes No. 96 a A Apply Cleaner. Use a clean & Elbow Grease. Use a brass «il pan or other fat plastic pan to br apply the cleaner to the blade. ish to clean the shoulders ano guletts free of resin, If the cleaner soil based, you folks at Sinple Gren. Ttwvas devel- ‘ean remove the excess with a soft oped to clean aircraft, so it won't cloth. But some of the dleaners damage or corrode metal. You listed need to be rinsed off with can safely soak blades and bits in ‘water, so some type of rust pre- the fullstrength solution without ventive should be used. Just be breaking down the carbide. Pls, sure you don't spray a router bit it's biodegradable shank with an oily substance, as Lest! cleaned the blade in the this might cause it to slip in the main photo without scrubbing in collet. Instead, spray a litle on a just five minutes and ata low cost. cloth and wipe the cutting area of But it contains a strong solvent. the bit with the inhibitor. The thing to be aware of here is Top Picks. After testing several the cleaner is not biodegradable cleaners, found a few that worked If you decide to use Leto, it ean Well. Exirene Simple Crem is anew — be reused until it becomes loudy product madeby the Farth-friendly But you'll need to rinse blades and Pei) ‘Stoddard Sovent (uthite spits) Water based + Resin removed without efor + Use fll stength + Water Rinse Can be reused vwwwShopNotes.com ae er roy Simple Green | Cleaner Contains roar Girus O1 “chemicals ator based ae Tite eto + Mx cleaner wth Aawator + Water Rinse + Rosin removed with bits in water and collect the waste for disposal at your local collec- tion center for household waste. If it wasn’t for this one thing, I'd use itwithout hesitation, Rockler Pitch and Resin Remover also worked well at removing resin, And Rockler offers a com- plete kit with the large-sized cleaner that includes a brass brush, a pan for blades, and a small plastic jar for bits. Once you find a cleaner that deaner wil cause works for you, I think youth wb lah find it's a quick and easy way fo on impovecntsin testo. Baking Cont CT a eg Xylona, Toluene Buoy Oilbased ‘Resin removed wth + Resin removed fie stor fat eureoos Ms cp wih at. + Galt toot a clean valor : sWalerRinse ——«Sorayon TOL USING a tire eto] WEIN Ve] isto Uiiianye)™" Eelalel=(erebirclcaniiiap BE | There's nothing more frustrating, than working through a project that’s had layout mistakes from the beginning. That's why Irou- tinely reach for my combination square, Its handy, versatile, and precise — perfect for quick and accurate layouts, setups, and more. Here are a few tips and techniques to help you get more cout of your combination square. Precision. Your project will only be ag accurate as the tools You use to lay it out, So, a high- | quality combination square, like Accuracy. For accurate layouts, place your pencil tip on the layout mark frst then ‘slide the blade to meet it the Siareit model you see in the photos here, offers the best results The markings are etched onto the blade like those on cheaper models. Also, you'll want to make sure your square is in good working order. The box on the opposite page olfers a few maintenance tips, as well as a way to verity its accuracy. Once you've checked the reliability of your combination square, you can putt to use ‘A Square Line. Drawing a lay- out line square to the edge of a workpiece is one ofthe mest basic tasks for a square. Start by posi tioning the head along the side of ‘your workpiece. Then place the tip ‘of your pencil (or marking krife) fon the layout mark. Now slide the square over until the blade ‘meets the pencil, as shown in the photo at left. This way, the blade is perfectly aligned with the mark, the thickness of the pencil lead is accounted for, and your layout Tine willbe dead-on og Parallel Lines. Another prac- tical use for your combination square is drawing a line parallel to the edge of a board. You can see ‘what I mean by looking at the top left photo on the opposite page. To do this, adjust the blade tothe appropriate length (distance from the edge of the workpiece). Place the stock of the square against the ‘ecige of the workpiece, then hold the ‘pencil against the end of the blade. "Now just lide the square along the edge, drawing a line as you go. To help keep the pencil steady, youcan file a notch in the endl of the blade for the tip of the pencil to rest. Centering, Finding the center of narrow workpiece is another sim ple task with a combination square inhand. There's noneed to measure ‘ordivide. In ac, thistechnique is as ‘easy as drawing parallel Hines. ‘To start, approximate the center ‘of the workpiece and set the blade to reach this point. Now make one mark at the end of the blade, Then, reposition the square along the ShopNotes No. 96 4 Parallel Lines. With the blade fixed at the desired distance, drawing ‘parallel layout lines is fast and easy: Just slide the square along the edge of the workpiece with the pencil tight against the blade. ‘A Centering. opposite edge and make a second offsets, for instance. ve found this Stop Block, Fine-tuning a stop ‘Zero-in" an ‘mark. Split the difference between to be helpful when I'm making a block for making repetitive cuts the center of a the two marks to “zero in” on the project with a set overhang, as in can be a time-consuming task. But workpiece by ‘center and repeat the process, a the photo below. its a vital step for cutting work- marking fines an shown in the right photo above. _Alll you need to do is lock the pieces to the same length. The equal distance from You'll quickly be able to find the blade at the desired measurement main photo shows how easy it is each edge of the center ofthe workpiece, of the overhang and position the to get precise and accurate results workpiece. Reveals, Besides being a handy square on the edge of the work- using your combination square as layout tool, your combination piece, Then, simply adjust the stop block on the table saw square can also serve as a useful other piece untilitbuttsagainstthe To use your square as a stop gauge — to establish reveals or blade for the desired overhang. block, simply damp your square upside-down to an auxiliary fence fon your miter gauge. Then just position the blade of the square for cutting workpieces to any length. I find this easier and more accurate than clamping, unclamping, and moving an ordinary stop block. I you're like me, you'll find that ‘the combination square is one of the most versatile tools you can have in the shop. Taking good care of it and knowing how to use it ‘will show in your projects, Maintenance & Use: Square Tips Because [ use my square on every project, i's important to keep it accurate. Here area few things to help. ‘Square Angle. For starters, check to see that i's actus ally square, as shown in the photo at left. Ifthe square is exactly 90°, the two lines you've drawn should be perfectly straight and parallel with each other. Burrs or imperfections on the head may be the cause i of inaccuracy. The solution i often justa matter of lightly ‘A Checking Square. jo check a sanding the face, as you sce inthe right photo. ‘A Smooth Face. Using ihe ro lence square for accuracy, draw a ine Maintenance. Finally, omakea combination squarea_ of your lable saw as a guide, remove along one ecige of the blade. flip biteasier to use and operate more smoothly, like to wax any burrs on the head by lightly the square over, and draw another. the blade and oil the screw and mut regularly. sanding with 150-gnit sandpaper | ‘www. ShopNotes.com B Technique simple & strong Draw-Bol g Joinery This rugged system is easy to make, knocks down, in a jiffy, andis Perfect - for big projects BE | Big. projects, like workbenches, You can see how it works in Creating Joint, Witha grasp of tables, and beds, call for heavy- the photo above. A long bolt runs the “mechanics,” let'sstep through. duty joinery, Because of the use through the leg and into anutin a the process, And you'll find afew (and unfortunately, abuse) these pocket in the end of the stretcher. tips to help get the best resuls projects endure, you want joints Washers on both ends prevent the One more thing: It’s possible to that can stand up tot ‘wood from deforming. complete everything with a hand One simple method I often tun Alignment. The bolts provide drill. But using a drill press for a toisdraw-boltjoinery.Itusesasys- plenty of muscle. Butasingle con- few steps will add some accuracy. tem of hardieare to create a stout nection point means the stretcher S joint, And it allows could twist out of ligament ae you to easily take One way to keep the parts like to start by drilling a couple it apart for moving aligned is to use dowels, as shown holes in the legs atthe dril press, oreven snug up the in the drawing at left. A second First, use a Forsiner bit to create a connection iit loos- option, a mortise and tenon joint, counterbore to recess the head of ens overtime. isshown in the detail at lft the bolt and a washer ( MORTIB= ano TeNoN Augnco aD st ke oe ‘A A.Counterbored Hole Tha cil 7658 A Two Dowel Holes. chil bit USE LONG Bosrs ro |) || BAS Wat Mosradourn’ ||| “REEPEMEIaKER| | makes criing the counterbored bolt hole makes it easy to locate tho shop- z ee in the leg fast and accurate. made driling guide. u ShopNotes No. 96 Sas 4 Drilling the Stretcher, A tence on the driling & The Cross Hole. Dri tho -& Square it Up. Wih 2 chisel guide positions the holes properly and allows you to crass hole on the inside face of create a flat bearing surface for lamp itin place on the stretcher the stretcher with a Forstner bit. the washer and nut For the through hole, simply THE STRETCHERS “Here again, the first step takes replace the Forsiner bit with © Now you can get to work on the place at the drill press (center bbrad point bit. This allows you stretchers. You'll use the drilling photo). You want to make sure to to drill the through hole without guide to drill holes in the ends of drill this hole deep enough so the Drilling the Dowel Holes. a big deal. But depending on the —taskisto flatten the "leg" end of the | you can drill the dowel holes. the cross hole with the bolt hole, ing more you could ask for. & Specialty Hardware: Bed Bolts & Bench Bolts vreau os | ‘Using ordinary hex bolts and nuts bearing surface, eliminating the | {to secure a draw-bolt joint is a need for another washer. ‘common and inexpensive way to To tighten them, you can use 0. But there are two other hard- either an ordinary wrench or a bed ‘wate alternatives to consider. (To bolt ’key” (photo at right), Square-head bed, find out where to find these, turn Bench Bolts. Instead of a hex Bolts provide a V te Sources on page 51) rut, Veritas’ bench bolis use a ‘adltional look A Bed Bolts, One option you may round barrel nut, This simplifies Dai hadley ‘want to consider is old-fashioned the process because you only need Teves bed bolts. Theblack boltsand nuts to drill a dia. hole for the rst hhave square heads that give them to fit into, And you don’t need to Round barrel a traditional look, The head of the worry about holding onto the nut ecenies bolt is flared to provide a wider while tightening the bol Installation wow ShopNotes.com 16 Gree To ESA) o multi-purpo 2 ea Sander The large sanding disk and extended arbor makes any sanding and smoothing Hels ecco) (=1a74o Having the right too! for the job See Rcd ae eae Cerca ing basic rabbet and dado join- ee Nae esta ss eee ny Cee eens Coens rT additional features < Pivoting Head. Rotate the head 90° in either direction to use the auxiliary sh 4A Adjustable Table. The tab tts trough a range of angles and the miter gauge gives precise contol of aworkpieze, ‘A. Under the Hood. Siep pulleys give ‘you thtee speed options and a lnk belt provides vibration fee power ‘A Fast Grit Changes. A hook a loop ais sanding d table drops you can change jn seconds. Tr mn for easy access. kogos tools and acce ‘easy reach. The suspended motor platiorm supplies the belt tension, hassle-free speed changes. ‘www ShopNotes.com 1" NOTE: neweneive MOF CONSTRUCTION Dos Mass AND REDUCES VIBRATION. 4G ITER TRACK IN TABLE "ALLOWS YOU TOUS [ORDINARY MITER, GAUGE 10 sUPPoRt "WORKPIECE NTA ‘cutting diagram of the disk sander, go to our website: ShopNotes.com NOTE: roe HARDWARE SOURCES, “TURN TO PAGES TABLE CHANNELS ust Box UNDER Dust TO anor VACUUM HOSE Materials & Hardware ‘COLUMN Pivot Blocks (2) Cleat (}) Motor Runners (2) Boor (1) Motor Patform (1) Mount Sides (2) Brace (I) Base Bloc (1) Base (1) EAD Front/Back 2) Head Sides (2) Arm (I) ‘Arm fille 0) Support Block (}) Pivot Block (}) ‘Arm Cap (}) Pivot Post (}) Table Runners (2) ap) go Sze aw ones Horprozeen 18 Front/Back/Sides(4) 7% x26) -% MDF lex 74-1 MDF 26% ~%4 MOF Yx16%-% Alum. 6x88 -7% MDF (655 1%-1V/2 MDF 54x14 -% MOF 25 x5/4- MDF 426% - 24 MDF 12x 18- 2% MDF 8 x14) - 4 MDF TAxWA~ MOF 7427-3 MDF 1x7 -YMDF 64axTA-3MOF AKT: VME 3x3)4-%MDF 4x19 Sch 40 PVC YoY Alum, 7438) 4 MDE Cover Sides (2) 2,x5%- 7% MOF Glue Blocks (2) x 5% MDF Guard Support (1) 614e x 12); rgh. «4 MDF Neaxs> the spinning pulley and belt, Ieov- ered the front opening with a door, as shown in Figure3. I didn’t want door catches to snag on the belt, so instead, 1 installed rare-earth magnets into the exige of the door and column, ‘And I made a simple pull from a ‘www.ShopNotes.com section of the miter track that Vl use ater in the table (Figure 3a) Motor Mount. Now you can tum your attention to the motor mount. Its suspended inside the column to supply tension to the rive belt. This assembly: consists of four parts, as in Figure 4. ‘The first partis the platform. I's made up from two layers of MDF and fits between two side pieces. "BASES COLUMN NOTE: au oa WADE ROMP NOE side houses the platform. ‘The sides have a groove that matches the width of the alumi- ‘mum guides in the column. You also need to cut a lang notch on the front edge of each piece. It pro- vides clearance for the motor. The fourth piece to make is a brace. I's used to keep the mount square as it's assembled. When attaching the motor to the platform, you want to make | sure the pulley is centered in | the column, as in Figure 4b. Once this is done, you can slide it into the column from below. Base. To provide a large, stable footprint for the sander, I ‘mounted the column to a wide base (Figure 5). It made up of three layers of MDF. A base block (also three layers) serves a8 the connection point to the ‘column (Figure Sa). Along with the motor this adds lot of mass to keep the sander stable, ‘The comers of the base are soft- ‘ened and rounded ever for aclean, look. Then to Keep the base from rocking, I attached a set of non- skid rubber feet. Finally, the base is screwed to the column. a TABLE VERVIEW RUNNER o. ®FRONT oS. a G@ zene "ALUMINUM ARM FILLER ~ He ee Beagme man f Sattar ine ‘SIDE SECTION VIEW runs) (ae) low ® iS Mea Hikouon Boe ® Bebe ~ NTE serswany | reonr Hessteuite ~~ ees | NOT ate coeers ex . mh Post “P)PIVOT BLOCK pivoting designed to pivot on the column ' Ox? in ether dnston to easily H ea d reposition the rear arbor without ‘moving the machine ‘You'll find the case for the head Perched on top ofthe column iss constructed simular to the eol- the head. And it’s ely the busic umn, So there are tany surprises nes ond ofthe disksondersinceit here. But as you cans in Figure houses both the sanding disk and 6 thers ene substantial ifr the aula rear arbor Here you ence—the heavy-duty arm, tls have accexs to the upper pul- The arms attached fo the back ley assembly for changing speeds. side of the heed. Its fencton is What's rally unique isthe head ist support and provide access to NOTE: au eRe nae ROWS MBE the attachments on the rear arbor. (More on this ater) Making the Head. Figure 7 will get ou stared on making the front, back and sidesofthehead. Asisaid before, te case shares the same rab bet and dado joinery asthe column, Its a good idea to take care of the joinery first before cutting the parts to final shape. It much easier to ‘work with square pars. Front and Back. So once the joinery is complete, you can tackle the other details on the front and bock. First, the front has a notch. that accommodates the shaft for the sanding disk ‘Theback piece has ahole, which allows the back end of the shaft to pass through, Ancl both pieces are rounded over on the top comers and have long notches cut along each edge to hold the sides. Before moving on, you'll also want to drill a power cond access hholein the side (Figure 7) You can set these pieces aside for the time being to: work on a few others. Amm. Next, I made the arm. It's ‘glued up from four layers of MDF (Figure 8). Once its cut to shape, {You can cut a groove in the top edge to hold the sha. After cutting a filler to fit the top ‘of the groave so that the shaft isn’t ShopNotes No. 96 a Ngee eter gerer ny Fle Olbtas USE Seen 26 i SECOND: er suarrmiRoUcH PILLOW SUDEKS AND A, A te ar HUSH et Noor Ad Note: aOR so ‘Surboet peat roWReANe ‘owe BLOCK (rouR AS P| i, a THIRD: race oversize ag —~'N OVERSIZE ARM CAP ROMA Sa oe b, SIDE SECTION : VIEW re te BD own END VIEW (80 Am CAP) exposed, soften the edges with a The two pieces that make up roundover. Then attach the arm to _ the pivot block have a hole drilled the back with screws and glue, _in them to fit the pivot post and a More Blocks. Like the column, curved slot for the power cord. inside the head is another pair of Assembly. At this point, the thick blocks (Figure 8). As before, camponents of the head can be it's a good idea to make them up glued together. You can also cut a one layer ata time. section of PVC pipe and glue't into ‘Theuppersupportblockisglued — the support block. I used polyure- ‘up from four layers of MDF. The thane glue fora sure connection. to attach the disk, pulley, and rear bottom two layershavelargeholes Shaft Assembly. With the head arbor. Because I used a hardened toaccept the PVC post But the top assembled, you can add the hard- steel shaft [had touse a grinder to {wo layers have a rectangular cut- ware that allows the disk sander do tis. With that complete, aftach out to allow the drive belt to pass to function. I started by securing the upper pulley as you slip the ‘through and still provide a solid the pillow blocks. Then you can shaft through the pillow blocks. anchoring point for a set of pillow fit the shaft. You'll also need to Since the back end of the shaft blocks that supports the shaft, create some flat spots on the shaft is quite a distance from the pillow blocks, I wanted to provide some auxiliary support to keep it fram flexing, To do this, Iburied a bear- ing in a cap attached to the end of the arm, a5 shown in Figures 83 and 8b. The steps shown in Figure 8 show you how to align and fit the bearing ancl cap to the arm, On each side of the head, 1 attached another set of aluminum 4 Link Belt. After runners, as shown in Figure 6. completing the head ‘These guide the table as you adjust and column, you its height up and down. ean connect the Cover, All that’s left to do at this motor fo the shat stage Js to make the cover, as in witha ink belt Figure 9, It's held in place by the notches in the front and back. 8 a\=. : 5 “ “Guard, Post, & Shelf By now, you've completed mest the dimensions in Figure 11 and a ‘of the construction for the column compass to lay out and shape the and head of the disk sander. There guard support. The top is curved arejusta few details to wrap up. to match the sanding disk. as a pattem to trace the profile of “) sk Guard Assembly. The The guard isa litte more of a the inside curve, This curve can firstof these itemsisthe disk guard challengetomakesinceit’snartow be rough cut at the band saw and assembly. I's attached to the front and curved on both the top and _ then sanded for a seamless fit. of the head and covers the back bottom edges. Figure 11 gives you Outside Curve. Before cutting ‘and top of the sanding disk,as you. a good overview of how to make the outer edge, I first glued the ‘ean seein Figure 10 and 10a, it; but there are couple details fd guard to the support. This lager ‘The guard is made up out of like to mention as well ‘workpiece seasierto control while two pieces. There's a large, sup- Inside Curve. After gluing up cutting and smoothing the profile. port and an arched disk guard an oversize blank for the guard, {The guard assembly attaches to that gets glued on. You can use used the completed guard support the head with glue and screws, as shown in Figures 10 and 10a, Sanding Disk. The sanding disk mounts to the shaft at the STEP 2 front of the sander. And by lifting FiRsT;cutmver raoiie,aayo off the cover, you can get access fo MOCUEBELA SHON” the shaft (Figure 10a). While you could use pressure-sensitve adhe- sive sanding disks, they canbe dif ficult to remove without tearing, ‘To make things easier, | applied a hook and loop backing to the disk. ‘Now grit changes are fast and you can even reuse the disks. Rear Arbor. On the back end of the shaft, 1 mounted an aux: —~) iliary arbor This makes it a snap to attach a variety of sanding and p shaping tools. One option, a bu ing wheel, is shown in the right ShopNotes No. 96 ‘margin photo. You could also use a flap sanding wheel or even a variety of drum sanders. SWITCH POST Although it may not seem like a big deal, one ofthe nicest features ofthis sander is the switch post. It places the power switch at a con- venient and visible height Making the Post. As you can see in Figure 12, the post is pretty simple to make. Its really just a thick piece of hardwood. A groove cut in one face creates a channel for the power conds (Figure 12a) ‘At the bottom of the post, [cut notch to allow the cords to enter the sander head, as shown in Fig- ture 12b. also rounded over the lower comer to soften the edge. Wiring. After wiring up the switch, you can attach it to the top ofthe post. The switch and motor used came with instructions, Butif you aren't comfortable doing this yourself, be sure to have an elec- ‘tician take care of it for you. Then the post can be secured tothe head with screws, as in Figure 12 Finally. 1 made a hardboard cover for the post. It conceals the cord groove and gives ita finished look. ust be sure to round over the ‘comer to match the post EB ‘TOP VIEW ne a AUXILIARY SHELF There's one additional item 1 attached to the column, And that's small shelf Figure 13). Itservesas a place to keep tools, warkpicces, and other items handy while I'm ‘working at the disk sander. T NOTE: ariacu coon | Weonele serone. SHAPING CORNERS: ‘wwwShopNotes.com SHELF EDGING (ale rte) SUFFORT NOTE: shee ano Sei eon Mae ioe The shelf is easy to make. Its supported by two arms that are screwed to the column just above the motor opening, asin Figure 13. Tadded a small lip tothe shelf to keep the contents from rolling of. T glued this edging in place before rounding the comers of the shel. ‘The shelf is then screwed fo the supports, as in Figure 1a Painting. With the column and head complete, like to mention. a few things about painting the sander before moving on to make ing the table on the next page. A few coats of paint can make 4 project like this rally stand out and offer some protection. But before painting, there'sa ttle pep ‘work that needs to be done, First, to seal the porous edges of the MDF, [sprayed on a heavy coat of lacquer and sanded it smooth when dry. Then the screwheads were covered with spackle and everything gota coat of primer, For quick even results, nothing beats spray paint. ( applied two coats of Rust Oleun's Brilliant Blue). 25 A Buffing Wheel. Palishing metal parts with a buffing wheel is just one option for puting the rear arbor to work, ‘The home stretch to completing the disk sander involves bullding the adjustable table shown in the photo at right. On the surface, it seems straightforward. But there's ‘some interesting woodworking to make ita good challenge. For starters, the table has to be strong enough to support large workpigees without flexing. Then the table needs to tilt in order to sand bevels, Furthermore, the height adjusts to accommodate thick workpieces and for chang- ing the disk And to top if off, there's a dust collection system to ports ae usr eon ef vAGUUM | TEOEE Baooer [ALONG ENDS AND BorToM GeStRoNT AND BACK 26 keep dust from filling the air in your shop. Just Because thee are a Jot of features here doesn’t mean the table is complicated to build. All it takes is working in the right onder: And in this ‘ase, that means work- ing from the bottom up. Dust Box. In Figure 14 ‘youcan see the parts that make up the dust box, neon aur ia fl Vrcrca rnp CeCe It sits below the table and has a narrow opening in the top to capture dust and channel it to the dust port in the bottom. The top of the box is beveled to provide clearance for the table to tilt ‘The box is joined with rab- bets, but for now, leave all the parts square, Before you glue up the box, you'll need to make and attach the two table guides. ‘There's a groove and a slot cut in ‘each piece to allow the table to be adjusted up and down, as illus- trated in Figures 1d and 14a. ? cllnes See bee Bevel the Top. Imentoned ear le thatthe top of the dust ox beveled, Culing the bevel afer sssrly mean you don thave fe tran align the bevels indie val parts The tbl he luc upbox does thave smooth sur fRcetorumagaisthe fence Figure {shows yous simple soition for making ths cuton the able ee, ‘The Table, The next step up the Inder iy making the table lt. Figure 16 shows tht the able actually made up ofthe part There's the fon fable, Then there olga DUS Bono BEEING. ShopNotes No. 96 pr otie tares E around the side of the disk, To ‘ake sure the tables won't deflect {in use, Imade them from two lay- ets of" plywood. Hinge Recess. The tables are connected to each other with sections of piano hinge (Figures 16a and 17b). And if you turn to page 29, you'll find out how to make the angled rab- bet to hold the hinges, You'l also see how to createa clearance notch (on the inside edge of the table to “ ‘ake room for the sanding disk. MoT, mai wave rsoy Table Assembly. Figure 16 WOLMERS Sr aod shows a few other details to take tare of on the side tables. Then they can be screwed to the table sliding surface, I covered the sec- “supports on the dust box. tions with plastic laminate. A ‘The main table is attached to a router and a flush trim bit makes pairoltabletiltguides. Theseallow short work of cleaning up the the table to be locked in place to edges. But on the beveled edges, I thedustbox with threaded inserts, used a file to get the best results. ‘washers, and knobs Figure 17a). After trimming the laminate flush, Laminate. To give the table tops you can cut the groove for the ‘added durability and a smooth miter tack inthe main table. ‘The table sections can then be joined together with the hinges, 2s ‘you can see in Figure 17b. At last, you can slide the table ‘over the runners from below. Here again, you lock it in place with knobs, washers and threaded inserts, Then you can plug. the sander inand get to work & SIDE TABLED LAMINATE s ‘€D- SURe, § O- gracias Ae NOTE: 00 ane ScrevieD To puer box aNtie axaare O° FORoIN Poke = NOTE: vee saunas aire aa IS wwwShopNotes.com aersenmie adhe os ies|Our Shop Routing Curved Slots | Two of the features of the disk sander on page 16 are its pivol- ‘ng head and tilting table. What allows these to work are a few curved slots. And all it takes to centerpoinis for routing the slots protect the top of the workbench, make these slots is a router, ain bothot these parts Tattached a backer board to the straight bit, and the jig you see in Starter Holes. With the router workpieces with some double- > the drawing below. and jig setup, youcanprepare the stick tape and then clamped the made the jig so it can be used workpieces. Lay out the center- assembly to the workbench, as to rout the slots in both the pivot points and mark the slot position. shown in the photo above. lock (for the pivoting head) Tomakestarting and stopping the Multiple Passes, Then, simply and the tlt guides (for the tilting cut easier, I drilled holes at each ingertthe straight bit into astarter table). Itacts as an auxiliary base- end. Drilling the holes slightly hole and line up the appropriate plate for your router and has two oversized (%,") makes fiting the centerpoint. Using multiple, 2 Dnt theaotshatle Ge low paen,youcen go abet and xe. g £E-| Groce oe recite Thee eect al neal Lotte a 5 — OER thing before routing the slots, To _ little (1¢") with each pass: Be a ete mT wor s10cK ee easy 28 ShopNotes No. 96 Hinge Rabbet “™ and Notch For the table of the disk sander to tlt 45%, youl need to provide dearance fo both the hinge and the sanding disk. This can be done with afew cutson te table sa, Istarted withan extra-wide work- piece. Then, you can create the angled rabbet to fitthe hinge. This is done in two passes (Figure 1). First Cut-Forthefirstcut you'll need to tilt the blade to make a beveled kerf. Set the rip fence so the location of the kerf matches the finished size of the table, as shown in Figure 1a. And before you start the cut, make sure the blade height matches the width ‘of the hinge from the barrel toan edge. (My hinge was ig") Second Cut. For the second cut, you'll need to flip the work piece over. Then, adjust the rip fence so that the “rabbet” for the FP hinge matches the thickness of each leaf, as shown in Figure 1b, ‘Then, cut away the waste. The Notch. With that done, the other detail to complete is the notch. After installing a dado Column Cut-Outs _ To access the motor and pulley of the disk sander on page 16, you ‘ ‘ged to make a couple of openings © inthe column, used a jig saw and ‘a router to make clean openings in “the assembled column. Rough Cut, Before roughing. ‘out the openings with a jig saw, I first drilled holes in each comer to make it easier to turn the saw. Router Support. To clean up the “edges, [ used a router and flush _ trim bit. To rout along the narrow sides, I attached blocks to support router base, as shown in detail ‘a’ To provide a guide for the ‘outer base when routing across ® blade, you'll need to raise it high enough to leave a lip along the front edge of the notch, as you can seein Figure 2, To make the depth of the notch consistent as you're pene ae SECOND: cur ‘Annee bey creating it, you should clamp a stop block to the rip fence (Figure 2). Now, you can cut the notch in multiple passes, adjusting the rip fence between each pass. 7 TeeD: cueany Soe building the ~ Case ‘As I mentioned, the case is simple tobuild As illustrated in Figure 1, if just atop, bottom, and divider connected tothe sices with tongue and dado joinery. And a groove at the back edges ofthe top, bottom, and sides accepts the back. The sides are the key tothe look of the ‘case, so that’s where I started. Sides. Although the sides are angled, ifs best to complete the joinery work before shaping each side. So the first step is to cut the 2y/-wide kerf thatform the dadoes. Once that’s complete, you can Jay out and dil the holes for the shelf pins and then tim the side to shape. Figure 2 has all he infor- ‘mation you'll need. And the lower right photo shows hovr to smooth the sites fora perfect match, Top, Bottom, and Divider. At / thispoint,youcan tum your atten- tion to the top, bottom and divider ‘Here you can start by cutting each workpiece to match the full width ofeach side After the tongues are complete you can cut the divider to final with and bevel the front ‘eXge of the top to mateh the sides To cut the fongues, I buried my dado biade in an auxiliary fence on my table saw setting itabit low to start with, This way, I could sneak upon the size ofthe tongue to cre- atea perfect fit with the dado, Back, Withthetonguescomplete, the lst ito joinery you'l need to www ShopNotes.com focus on is cutting a groove forthe back in the top, bottom, and sides (Figure 1). Its sized to’match the thickness ofthe plywood. ‘Assembly. With the groove com plete, you can cut the back to final size and assemble the ease, Since the back is visible, I took the time finding an atractive grain patter and centered it on the back. At the same time, ut the door panel rom the same aea soit would match. Hanging the Case. I wanted a sturdy hanging system for the ‘ase, So [used a pair of interlock ing beveled cleats at the top. ‘The upper cleat is glued to the back of the case. And the wide mating cleat is screwed to the ‘all ater. Then, to ensure the case wouldn't “pop out" fom the wall while opening the door, the case is fixed to the wall by screwing through the lower deat Cutting the Sides. After cutting the tapered sides atthe band saw, clamp the two pieces together and sand them smoath with a sanding block. outfitting the a. SIDE VIEW Case < 2 Now that you've completed the basic case, the next few steps will add some decorative details, a rack for the chisels, and a door. CCap and Base, To complement : the classic looks of the case, I \| added a beveled cap and base, as in Figure 3. The nce thing about aie them is they're petty straightfor BEES SEES roe ward to build, After cutting them a to final size all you need to dois NITE us ounowro tithe saw blade and knock of the Sra front edge and ends at the top of the base and bottom ofthe cap. With the bevels cut, the next step {sto gluethe cap and base in pace While this facetoface ghueup 5,99 Provides a lot of strength, the glue (#"x84"- 108") rakes ita challenge t0 keep the parts from siting out of place. To keep the workpieces right where they need tobe, [tapped in 2 couple of small brads and then ~ clipped off the heads, leaving a sharp end, Then as you clamp the cedtacedewn odorant HATES Boe foworryaboutthemshiting, workpiece. Once that’s comple, But there's a challenge here. ‘Add the Trim, The door that’s all hats eft to do iscutit to final The handle rack needs oft in sxlded later will cover up the size and glueit in place place without any. gaps at the lower part ofthe cae joinery. But Chisel Rack, With the trim work ends, back, or where it mee the to cover the exposed joint atthe complet, the nett stp i to pro- frontedge cf each ide Sine there top of the case, I added a thin vide a way to keep chisel stored wasnt relly an easy way to sneak Piece of tim. Since the wim needs securely. yeteasily accesible Thisis up on the fit, | made the handle to match angle of the sides (10°),1__ accomplished by adding the handle rack in two pieces, as illustrated in. made thatcutfiston anversized rackand supportin Figures. the lower par of Figure 4. as ricune Materials & Hardware Ed ee wren ise ssa) & =a Se Si id ae) Me 4c eo BD Case Topi) & - Back Pane! 0) S vallcte ee 1 Upper Trim () RK Handle Rack te LGhisel support) ' ee N M Shelf) LSAT TT) Pe oom ae adaa cee, = -P DoorPane WWE 6

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