Knitwear Fabric Performance Table 1

Base Test Requirements

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must be tested
at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore
Composition
PA15 +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/
Analysis
declared care label. metallised yarns; Fabrics containing luxury animal fibres.

Dimensional +3/-5% (7 gauge and above) Satisfactory

PA1a Stability to (Comment on any Required for washable garments only
Washing +3/-7% (below 7 gauge) adverse changes)

Testing only required for garments labeled ‘Professional Dry Clean

Dimensional Satisfactory Only’
PA1b Stability to Dry +3/-5% (Comment on any
Cleaning adverse changes)

Calculation of
PA1c 5% Required for single jersey constructions only
Spirality

Bursting
Strength
PA3 230 kPa
(30mm
diaphragm)
Pilling Required on all fibre types
PA4a Resistance Grade 4 @ 500 revs Not required for filament yarns
(Martindale)

Chenille Pile
PA20 7% max Negligible pile loss Required for all chenille garments
Loss

Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4 - Cellulosic/ cellulosic blend knitwear
- Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille

Snagging
PA14 3-4 at 300 revs Required for filament yarns only
Resistance

Durability – 4C No significant Required for fabrics with allover prints e.g. Pigment, plastisol, rubber
CA10a
Prints (4-5 cross-staining) change expanded, glitter, flock or similar.

Durability - 4C No significant Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g. ribbons,
CA10b
Embellishments (4-5 cross-staining) change embroidery, sequins, diamonte or similar.

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics
Composition
PA15 +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics containing
Analysis
declared care label. luxury animal fibres.

Dimensional +3/-5% (7 gauge and above) Satisfactory

PA1a Stability to (Comment on any Required for washable garments only
Washing +3/-7% (below 7 gauge) adverse changes)
Dimensional Satisfactory Testing only required for garments labeled ‘Professional Dry Clean
PA1b Stability to Dry +3/-5% (Comment on any Only’
Cleaning adverse changes)
Appearance
Assessment for
Satisfactory Testing only required when requested by Supplier/ Technologist
Articles and
PA1g (See table in Test Not to be used when garment must be tested for
Garments
Method section) Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)
(After cleaning
as care label)
Colour Fastness 4C, 4S
CA1 Required for washable garments only.
to Washing 4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)

Colour Fastness 4C, 4S

CA6 Testing only required if care label is to state ‘Professional Dry Clean’
to Dry Cleaning 4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
only or care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean ‘symbol

29/08/200829/08/2008 Page 1 Fabric Handbook 11.02.08

 Colour Fastness 4C, 4S Not required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA2
to Water 4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) Not required on White or Cream fabrics.
Colour Fastness
CA3 4S Not required on White or Cream fabrics.
to Rubbing (Dry)
4C, 4S Acid 4C,
Colour Fastness Required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA4 4S Alkali
to Perspiration Not required on White or Cream fabrics.
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
Colour fastness
CA5 Standard 4
to Light
Durability – 4C No significant Required for garments with allover or placement prints e.g. Pigment,
CA10a
Prints (4-5 cross-staining) change plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.

Durability - 4C No significant Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons, embroidery,
CA10b
Embellishments (4-5 cross-staining) change sequins, diamante or similar.

Pilling
Grade 4 @ 500 revs
PA4a Resistance Required as Bulk test for 100% Acrylic / Acrylic blends only
(Martindale)
Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
- Cellulosic/ cellulosic blend knitwear
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4
- Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille

Foot Notes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being
used in contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test
methods (see Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical
considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be
sent to the USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

29/08/200829/08/2008 Page 2 Fabric Handbook 11.02.08

Jerseywear (including Nightwear & Underwear) Fabric Performance Table 2

Base Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must be
0% Generic Fibre tested at Bulk:
Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out,
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics
tolerance from declared containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics containing luxury
care label. animal fibres.

+3/-5%
Satisfactory
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing +3/-7% (100% viscose, other (Comment on any Required for washable garments only
regenerated cellulosics & their adverse changes)
blends)
Testing only required for garments labeled ‘Professional Dry
Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Dry Clean Only’
PA1b +3/-5% (Comment on any
Cleaning
adverse changes)
Not required on nightwear & underwear
PA1c
Calculation of Spirality 5% Only required for single jersey constructions
Bursting Strength 175kPa (lace)
PA3 Not required for fabrics containing 11% or more elastane
(30mm diaphragm) 350kPa
Only required for fabrics containing Wool, acrylic or spun nylon
PA4a Pilling Resistance (Martindale) Grade 4 @ 500 revs
or polyester.
PA5 Pile loss (impeller tumbler) 16% (negligible) Only required for cut pile fabrics
PA6a Residual extension 10% max Required for fabrics containing elastane
Only required for fabrics marketed as ‘Control/Support
PA6b Extension & modulus Fabrics’
(Refer to Table 13 ‘Marketing Claims’)
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4 - Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille
- Fleece
PA14 Snagging Resistance 3-4 at 300 revs Required for filament yarns only
Required for fabrics with allover prints e.g. Pigment, plastisol,
4C
CA10a Durability – Prints No significant change rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining)
Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
CA10b Durability - Embellishments No significant change
(4-5 cross-staining)

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
0% Generic Fibre Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics
tolerance from declared containing luxury animal fibres.
care label.
+3/-5%
Satisfactory
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing +3/-7% (100% viscose, other (Comment on any Required for washable garments only
regenerated cellulosics & their adverse changes)
blends)
Testing only required for garments labeled ‘Professional Dry
Satisfactory Clean Only’
Dimensional Stability to Dry
PA1b +3/-5% (Comment on any
Cleaning
adverse changes) Not required on nightwear & underwear.

Testing only required when requested by Supplier/ Technologist

Appearance Assessment for Satisfactory
Not to be used when garment must be tested for
PA1g Articles and Garments (See table in Test
Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)
(After cleaning as care label) Method section)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing 4-5S (Garments with Required for washable garments only.
contrast trim)

Testing only required for garments labeled ‘Professional Dry

4C, 4S
Clean Only’ or care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean ‘symbol
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning 4-5S (Garments with
contrast trim)
Not required on nightwear & underwear
4C, 4S
Not required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water 4-5S (Garments with
Not required on White or Cream fabrics
contrast trim)

`Page 3 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 Colour Fastness to Rubbing
CA3 4S Not required on White or Cream fabrics
(Dry)
Only required on nightwear, underwear, pigment dyed fabrics or
Colour Fastness to Rubbing fabrics with pigment prints.
3-4S
(Wet) Not required on White or Cream fabrics

4C, 4S Acid
4C, 4S Alkali Required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA4 Colour Fastness to Perspiration
4-5S (Garments with Not required on White or Cream fabrics
contrast trim)
Standard 4
CA5 Colour fastness to Light Not required on nightwear & underwear
Required for garments with allover or placement prints e.g.
4C
CA10a Durability - Print No significant change Pigment, plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining)
Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C
CA10b Durability - Embellishments No significant change embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining)
Only for Underwear / Nightwear (containing cellulosic fibre)
PA16a Free Formaldehyde 75ppm
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Grade 4 - Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille
- Fleece

Foot Notes:
• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they
are being used in contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be
tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test
methods (see Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical
considerations and test as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of
this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product
will be sent to the USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

`Page 4 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

Swimwear and Beachwear Fabric Performance Table 3

Base Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must be
tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out,
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics
declared care label. containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics containing luxury
animal fibres.

+3/-5%
Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on
PA1a +3/-7% (100% viscose, other
- Jersey fabrics any adverse
regenerated cellulosics & their changes)
blends)
+/-3 %
Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on
- Woven fabrics 5% (100% viscose, other any adverse
regenerated cellulosics & their changes)
blends)
5%
PA1c Calculation of Spirality Required for single jersey constructions only
Bursting Strength – Jersey Fabrics 175kPa (lace) Required for Jersey fabrics only
PA3
(30mm diaphragm) 350kPa Not required for fabrics containing 11% or more elastane
Jersey
Grade 4 @ 500revs Only for fabrics containing Wool, acrylic or spun nylon or
PA4a Pilling Resistance (Martindale) polyester
Woven
Grade 4 @ 2000revs

PA5 Pile loss (impeller tumbler) 16% (negligible) Required for cut pile fabrics only
Residual extension – Jersey
PA6a 10% max Jersey fabrics containing elastane
Fabrics
Only required for fabrics marketed as ‘Control/Support
PA6b Extension & modulus Fabrics’
- Refer to Table 13 ‘Marketing Claims’
Residual extension for woven Woven stretch fabrics only (elastane blends or mechanical
PA6c 5% maximum
fabrics stretch)
Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester (except
15 kg
PA10 Tensile Strength – Woven Fabrics microfibre** and brushed or emerised fabrics)
Not for stretch fabrics
6mm at 8 kg
Not required for stretch fabrics
PA10 Seam Slippage – Woven Fabrics 3mm for contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Seam Strength – Woven Fabrics 12 kg Report type of Not required for stretch fabrics
PA10
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam) seam failure
Tensile Strength - Woven Fabrics
PA10a 15kg Required for stretch fabrics only
(Grab method)
6mm at 8 kg
Seam slippage – Stretch woven Required for stretch fabrics only
PA10b 3mm for contrast warp and weft
seam method
fabrics
Seam strength – Stretch woven Report type of
PA10b 12kg Required for stretch fabrics only
seam method seam failure
Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester (except
microfibre** and brushed or emerised fabrics)
PA12 Tear Strength – Woven Fabrics 1000gm
In Stretch fabrics only required in direction that does not contain
elastane
3-4 at 300 revs
PA14 Snagging Resistance Only required for filament yarns.
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4 - Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille
- Fleece
Required for fabrics with allover prints e.g. Pigment, plastisol,
4C No significant
CA10a Durability – Prints rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change
Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C No significant
CA10b Durability - Embellishments embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change

Page 5 Fabric Handbook14.10.05

Bulk Test Requirements
Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics;
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns;
declared care label. Fabrics containing luxury animal fibres.

+3/-5%
Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on
PA1a +3/-7% (100% viscose, other
- Jersey fabrics any adverse
regenerated cellulosics & their changes)
blends)
+/-3 %
Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on
PA1a +/-5 %(100% viscose, other
- Woven fabrics any adverse
regenerated cellulosics & their changes)
blends)
Satisfactory Testing only required when requested by Supplier/ Technologist
Appearance Assessment for
(See table in Not to be used when garment must be tested for
PA1g Articles and Garments
Test Method Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)
(After cleaning as care label)
section)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing Required for washable garments only.
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
4C, 4S Not required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) Not required for White or Cream fabrics
Not required for White or Cream fabrics
CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) 4S

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) 3-4S Not required for White or Cream fabrics

4C, 4S Acid
Required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool
CA4 Colour Fastness to Perspiration 4C, 4S Alkali
Not required for White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
Standard 5
CA5 Colour fastness to Light
Fashion swimwear 50 mg/l
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated
CA7 Sports swimwear 100 mg/l
Water 4C
Beachwear 20 mg/l
4C, 4S
CA8 Colour fastness to Sea Water
Required for garments with allover or placement prints e.g.
4C No significant
CA10a Durability - Print Pigment, plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change
Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C No significant
CA10b Durability - Embellishments embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change
Slight uniform
Required on all metallic swimwear trims: (coated or uncoated)
CA16 Salt Water Corrosion Resistance 4 change in
appearance
Required on:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4 - Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille
- Fleece

Foot Notes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they
are being used in contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be
tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test
methods (see Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical
considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

Page 6 Fabric Handbook14.10.05

 • Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product
will be sent to the USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 7 Fabric Handbook14.10.05

Woven Womenswear Fabric Performance Table 4
(Tailoring, dresses, skirts, trousers, blouses, underwear, nightwear)
Base Test Requirements
Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must be tested
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. at Bulk:
+/-3% manufacturing Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore
PA15 Composition Analysis
tolerance from declared care fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/
label. metallised yarns; Fabrics containing luxury animal fibres.

+/- 3%
Required for washable garments only
Satisfactory
+/- 5% Extensible* fabrics or (Comment on
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing Extensible*= Fabrics containing elastane or engineered stretch,
Fabrics containing any adverse
Extensible fabrics are able to retain their original shape after washing.
> 55% Viscose or other changes)
Any permanent shrinkage should be noted, in writing on the report.
regenerated cellulosic fibre
Satisfactory
Not required if care label will carry the ‘Do Not Dry Clean’ symbol
(Comment on
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/- 3%
any adverse
Not required on nightwear & underwear
changes)

PA2 Dimensional Stability to Steaming +/- 3% Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester
Only for fabrics containing wool, acrylic or spun nylon or polyester.
PA4a Pilling Resistance (Martindale) Grade 4 at 2000 revs

PA5 Pile Loss (Impeller Tumble) 16% (Negligible) Required for cut pile fabrics only
5%Max
PA6c Residual Extension for Woven Fabric Only required on elastane blends and fabrics with mechanical stretch
10000 revs Delicate
15000 revs Light Sewing Testing required on Trousers, Jackets and Coats (except nightwear)
Martindale Abrasion Resistance- 20000 revs Testing not required on 100% Nylon or Polyester
PA7 Tailoring/Trousers
(Determination of Thread Breakdown) Do not use for raised surface fabrics – see PA8
Shade change --- NB: Delicate includes Polynosic, crinkle viscose, acetate & silk
Grade 4 @ 5000 revs
Only required for raised surface fabrics only e.g. moleskin, mouflon &
PA8 Nap Stability 4,000 revs Moderate suedette

Not required for stretch fabrics

15kg Light sewing
PA10 Tensile Strength
21kg Tailoring
Evans trousers must achieve a Tailoring standard
Seam opening 6mm
8kg Light sewing Not required for stretch fabrics
PA10 Seam Slippage 12kg Tailoring
3mm for contrast warp and For fabrics less than 150-g/m sq. use the 3mm test method.
weft fabrics
Not required for stretch fabrics
Seam Strength 12kg Light sewing Report type of
PA10
18kg Tailoring seam failure
Required for stretch fabrics only
15kg Light sewing
PA10a Tensile Strength (Grab method)
21kg Tailoring
Evans trousers to be at Tailoring standard
Seam opening 6mm
8kg Light sewing Required for stretch fabrics only
Seam Slippage - Stretch woven seam
PA10b 12kg Tailoring
method
3mm for contrast warp and For fabrics less than 150-g/m sq. use the 3mm test method.
weft fabrics
Seam Strength - Stretch woven seam Required for stretch fabrics only
12kg Light sewing Report type of
PA10b method 18kg Tailoring seam failure
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam)
Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester (except microfibre and
brushed or e
700g Delicate mmersed fabrics)
PA12 Tear Strength 1000g Light sewing In Stretch fabrics only required in direction that does not contain
1200g Tailoring elastane

Evans trousers must achieve Tailoring standard

Only required for filament yarns.
PA14 Snagging Resistance Grade 3-4 at 300 revs
Test not applicable to fabrics under 150 g/m sq.
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4
- Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille
Required for fabrics with all over prints e.g. Pigment, plastisol, rubber
4C No significant
CA10a Durability – Prints expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change
Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C No significant embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
CA10b Durability - Embellishments
(4-5 cross-staining) change

Page 8 Fabric Handbook14.10.05

 Bulk Test Requirements
Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance.
Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics
+/-3% manufacturing
PA15 Composition Analysis containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics
tolerance from declared care
containing luxury animal fibres.
label.
+/- 3%
Required for washable garments only
Satisfactory
+/- 5% Extensible* fabrics or (Comment on
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing Extensible*= Fabrics containing elastane or engineered stretch,
Fabrics containing any adverse
Extensible fabrics are able to retain their original shape after washing.
> 55% Viscose or other changes)
Any permanent shrinkage should be noted, in writing on the report.
regenerated cellulosic fibre
Satisfactory
Not required if care label will carry the ‘Do Not Dry Clean’ symbol
(Comment on
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/- 3% Not required on nightwear & underwear
any adverse
changes)
Satisfactory Testing only required when requested by Supplier/ Technologist
Appearance Assessment for Articles
(See table in Not to be used when garment must be tested for
PA1g and Garments
Test Method Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)
(After cleaning as care label)
section)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing 4-5S (Garments with Required for washable garments only
contrast trim)
Testing only required if care label is to state ‘Dry Clean’ only
4C, 4S
or care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean ‘symbol
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning 4-5S (Garments with
Not required on nightwear & underwear
contrast trim)
4C, 4S
Not required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water 4-5S (Garments with
Not required for White or Cream
contrast trim)
CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) 4S Not required for White or Cream
Only required on nightwear, underwear, pigment dyed fabrics or fabrics
Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) 3-4S with pigment prints
Not required for White or Cream
4C, 4S Acid
4C, 4S Alkali Required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA4 Colour Fastness to Perspiration
4-5S (Garments with Not required for White or Cream
contrast trim)
CA5 Colour Fastness to Light Standard 4 Not required on nightwear & underwear

4C No significant Required for garments with allover or placement prints e.g. Pigment,
CA10a Durability - Print
(4-5S cross-staining) change plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons, embroidery,
4C No significant
CA10b Durability - Embellishments sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5S cross-staining) change

PA16a Free Formaldehyde 75ppm Only for Underwear / Nightwear (containing cellulosic fibre)
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4
- Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille

Foot Notes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
Flammability Class 1 and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Page 9 Fabric Handbook14.10.05

 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 10 Fabric Handbook14.10.05

Woven Menswear Fabric Performance Table 5
(Tailoring, trousers, shirts, jackets, underwear, nightwear)
Base Test Requirements
Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must be
tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out,
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics
from declared care label. containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics containing luxury
animal fibres.

+/-3% Required for washable garments only

Satisfactory
+/-5% Extensible* fabrics or (Comment on Extensible*=Fabrics containing elastane or engineered stretch.
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing
Fabrics containing any adverse Extensible fabrics are able to retain their original shape after
> 55% Viscose or other changes) washing; any permanent shrinkage should be noted in writing on
regenerated cellulosic fibre) the report.
Satisfactory
(Comment on Not required if care label will carry the ‘Do Not Dry Clean’ symbol
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/-3%
any adverse Not required on nightwear & underwear
changes)
PA2 Dimensional Stability to Steaming +/-3% Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester
Only for fabrics containing wool, acrylic or spun nylon or
PA4a Pilling Resistance (Martindale) Grade 4 at 2000 revs
polyester
PA5 Pile Loss (Impeller Tumble) 16% (Negligible) Cut pile fabrics only eg. Velvet
Only required on elastane blends and fabrics with mechanical
PA6c Residual Extension for Woven Fabric 5%Max
stretch
10000revs Delicate * Trousers must achieve Tailoring standard
15000 revs Light sewing Not required on 100% nylon or polyester
Martindale Abrasion Resistance –
PA7 20000 revs Tailoring/Trousers Not required on nightwear, underwear
Determination of Thread Breakdown
Shade change --- Do not use for raised surface fabrics – see PA8 (see below)
Grade 4 @ 5000 revs NB: Delicate includes polynosic, acetate & silk
Only required for raised surface fabrics only eg. Moleskin,
PA8 Nap Stability 4,000 revs Moderate
mouflon & suedette
15kg Light sewing
PA10 Tensile Strength Not required for stretch fabrics
21kg Tailoring
Seam opening 6mm
Not required for stretch fabrics
8kg Light sewing
PA10 Seam Slippage 12kg Tailoring
For fabric under 150 g/m sq. use the 3mm test method.
3mm for contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Seam Strength 12kg Light sewing Report type of
PA10 Not required for stretch fabrics
(fabric strength with Standard Seam) 18kg Tailoring seam failure
15kg Light sewing Only required for stretch fabrics
PA10a Tensile Strength (Grab method)
21kg Tailoring
Seam opening 6mm
8kg Light sewing Only required for stretch fabrics
Seam Slippage – Stretch woven seam
PA10b 12kg Tailoring
method
3mm for contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Seam Strength – Stretch woven seam 12kg Light sewing Report type of Only required for stretch fabrics
PA10b method 18kg Tailoring seam failure
(fabric strength with Standard Seam)
Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester (except
1000g Light sewing microfibres and brushed or emerised fabrics)
PA12 Tear Strength
1200g Tailoring In Stretch fabrics only required in direction that does not contain
elastane
Only required for filament yarns
PA14 Snagging Resistance Grade 3-4 at 300 revs
Test not applicable for fabrics under 150 g/m sq.
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4
- Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille
Required for fabrics with allover prints e.g. Pigment, plastisol,
4C No significant
CA10a Durability – Prints rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change
Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C No significant
CA10b Durability – Embellishments embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics;
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns;
from declared care label. Fabrics containing luxury animal fibres.

+/- 3% Satisfactory Required for washable garments only

PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing
(Comment on

Page 11 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 +/- 5% Extensible* fabrics or any adverse Extensible*= Fabrics containing elastane or engineered stretch,
Fabrics containing changes) Extensible fabrics are able to retain their original shape after
> 55% Viscose or other washing. Any permanent shrinkage should be noted, in writing
regenerated cellulosic fibre on the report.
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/-3% Satisfactory
(Comment on Not required if care label will carry the ‘Do Not Dry Clean’ symbol
any adverse Not required on nightwear & underwear
changes)
Satisfactory Testing only required when requested by Supplier/ Technologist
Appearance Assessment for Articles
(See table in Not to be used when garment must be tested for
PA1g and Garments
Test Method Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)
(After cleaning as care label)
section)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing Only required for washable garments.
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)

4C, 4S Testing only required if care label is to state ‘Dry Clean Only’ or
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’ Symbol.
Not required on nightwear & underwear.

4C, 4S Not required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.

CA2 Colour Fastness to Water
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) Not required for White or Cream

CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) 4S Not required for White or Cream
Only required on nightwear, underwear, pigment dyed fabrics or
Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) 3-4S fabrics with pigment prints
Not required for White or Cream fabrics
4C, 4S Acid
Required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA4 Colour Fastness to Perspiration 4C, 4S Alkali
Not required for White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
Colour Fastness to Light
CA5 Standard 4 Not required on nightwear & underwear
Required for garments with allover or placement prints e.g.
4C No significant
CA10a Durability - Prints Pigment, plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5S cross-staining) change
Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C No significant
CA10b Durability - Embellishments embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5S cross-staining) change

PA16a Free Formaldehyde 75ppm Only for Underwear / Nightwear (containing cellulosic fibre)
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4
- Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille

Footnotes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 12 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

Woven Outerwear Fabric Performance Table 6
(Coats, padded jackets, rainwear, salopettes)
Base Test Requirements
Arcadia Test Minimum Performance
Test Method Description Observation Comment
Reference Requirements
Required on all fabrics except the following which must
be tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres;
declared care label. Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics
containing luxury animal fibres.

+/-3%
Satisfactory
(Comment on Required for washable garments only
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing +/-5% (Fabrics containing any adverse
> 55% Viscose or other changes)
regenerated cellulosic fibre)
Satisfactory
(Comment on
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/-3% Not required if care label will carry the ‘Do Not Dry Clean’
any adverse
symbol
changes)
PA2 Dimensional Stability to Steaming +/-3% Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester
Only for fabrics containing Wool, acrylic or spun nylon or
PA4a Pilling Resistance (Martindale) Grade 4 at 2000 revs
polyester
PA5 Pile Loss (Impeller Tumble) 16% (Negligible) Only required for cut pile fabrics
Only required on elastane blends and fabrics with
PA6c Residual Extension for Woven Fabric 5% Max
mechanical stretch
15000 revs Light Sewing
Not required on 100% nylon or polyester
Martindale Abrasion Resistance – 20000 revs Tailoring
PA7
Determination of Thread Breakdown Shade change – Do not use for raised surface fabrics – see PA8
Grade 4 @ 5000 revs
Raised surface fabrics only eg. moleskin, mouflon &
PA8 Nap Stability 4,000 revs Moderate
suedette
15kg Light Sewing
PA10 Tensile Strength Not for stretch fabrics
21kg Tailoring
Seam opening 6mm
8kg Light Sewing
PA10 Seam Slippage 12kg Tailoring
Not for stretch fabrics
3mm for contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Seam Strength 12kg Light Sewing Report type of
PA10 Not for stretch fabrics
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam) 18kg Tailoring seam failure
15kg Light Sewing Required for stretch fabrics only
PA10a Tensile Strength (Grab method)
21kg Tailoring Evans trousers to achieve Tailoring standard
Seam opening 6mm
8kg Light Sewing
Seam Slippage - Stretch woven Required for stretch fabrics only
PA10b 12kg Tailoring
seam method
3mm for contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Seam Strength - Stretch woven 12kg Light Sewing Report type of Required for stretch fabrics only
PA10b seam method 18kg Tailoring seam failure
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam)
Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester (except
1200g Light Sewing microfibres** and brushed or emerised fabrics)
PA12 Tear Strength
1400g Tailoring In stretch fabrics only required in direction that does not
contain elastane
PA14 Snagging Resistance Grade 3-4 at 300 revs Required for Filament yarns only
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4
- Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille
Fibre percolation for feather & down Only required for garments wadded with feather & down
PA31 Not greater than 20 ends protruding
products Test composite (total garment)
Only required for garments wadded with synthetic fibres
PA31a Fibre percolation for synthetic fibres 6 fibres maximum
Test composite (total garment)
Flex crumple No coating
PA32 > 9000 cycles Only required for fabrics with coated backing
failure
Required for fabrics with allover prints e.g. Pigment,
4C No significant
CA10a Durability – Prints plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change
Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g.
4C No significant
CA10b Durability - Embellishments ribbons, embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia Test Minimum Performance
Test Method Description Observation Comment
Reference Requirements
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics;
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised
declared care label. yarns; Fabrics containing luxury animal fibres.

Page 13 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 +/-3%
Satisfactory
(Comment on Required for washable garments only
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing +/-5% (Fabrics containing any adverse
> 55% Viscose or other changes)
regenerated cellulosic fibre)
Satisfactory
(Comment on
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/-3% Not required if care label will carry the ‘Do Not Dry Clean’
any adverse
symbol
changes)

Satisfactory Testing only required when requested by Supplier/

Appearance Assessment for Articles
(See table in Technologist
PA1g and Garments
Test Method Not to be used when garment must be tested for
(After cleaning as care label)
section) Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)

4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing 4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) Required for washable garments only.

4C, 4S Testing only required if care label is to state ‘Dry Clean Only’
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) or care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’ symbol
4C, 4S Not required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool.
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) Not required on White or Cream fabrics
CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) 4S Not required on White or Cream fabrics
Required on rainwear
Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) 3-4S
Not required on White or Cream fabrics
4C, 4S Acid
Required on fabrics containing Nylon, Silk or Wool
CA4 Colour Fastness to Perspiration 4C, 4S Alkali
Not required on White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
CA5 Colour Fastness to Light Standard 4

CA8 Colour fastness to Sea Water 4C, 4S Required for Performance wear when requested by Arcadia
Required for garments with allover or placement prints
4C No significant e.g. Pigment, plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or
CA10a Durability- Print
(4-5 cross-staining) change similar.

4C No significant Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons,

CA10b Durability - Embellishments
(4-5 cross-staining) change embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
CA11 Colour Fastness to Water Spotting 4C dry state Only required on rainwear when requested by Arcadia
Required for:
- Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over 3mm
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4
- Ramie/ Cotton
- Chenille

Foot Notes:

• On all Outerwear that contains 2 or more fabrics, you will only be required to test the outer main fabric, the lining and an
appearance assessment to a care label cleanse (PA1g). In addition to these tests, you will also be required to provide surface
flash results for any outerwear that has a surface pile of over 3mm.

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Page 14 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 15 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

Woven & Knitted Linings & Mens Pocketing Fabric Performance Table 7

Base Test Requirements

Arcadia
Test Test Method Description Minimum Performance Requirements Observation Comment
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must
be tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres;
declared care label. Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics
containing luxury animal fibres.

Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on
PA1a +/- 3% Required for washable garments only
- Woven any adverse
changes)
Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on
PA1a +3/- 5% Required for washable garments only
- Jersey any adverse
changes)
Satisfactory
Not required if care label is to carry ‘Do not Dry Clean’
Dimensional Stability to Dry (Comment on
PA1b +/-3% symbol
Cleaning any adverse
changes)
Dimensional Stability to Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester
PA2 +/-3%
Steaming Not required for jersey fabrics
Bursting Strength
PA3 350 kPa Only required for jersey fabrics
(30mm diaphragm)
Woven
Grade 4 @ 2000revs Only required for fabrics containing Wool, acrylic or spun
PA4a Pilling Resistance (Martindale) nylon or polyester
Knitted Not required for pocketing fabrics
Grade 4 @ 500revs
Martindale Abrasion Resistance
Men’s woven pocketing only
PA7 -Determination of Thread 20000 revs
Not required for 100% nylon or polyester
Breakdown
Only required for woven fabrics
PA10 Tensile Strength 15kg
Not required for 100% nylon or polyester
6mm @ 8kg
Only required for woven fabrics
PA10 Seam Slippage 3mm at 8 kg for contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Required for stretch fabrics only
15kg Light sewing
PA10a Tensile Strength (Grab method)
21kg Tailoring
Evans trousers to be at Tailoring standard
Seam opening 6mm
8kg Light sewing Required for stretch fabrics only
Seam Slippage - Stretch woven
PA10b 12kg Tailoring
seam method
3mm at 8 kg for contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Seam Strength - Stretch woven Required for stretch fabrics only
12kg Light sewing Report type of
PA10b seam method 18kg Tailoring seam failure
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam)
Seam Strength Report type of Required for woven fabrics only
PA10 12kg
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam) seam failure
Required for woven fabrics only
700g Lining Not required for 100% nylon or polyester (except
PA12 Tear Strength
1200g Pocket fabrics microfibres** and brushed or emerised fabrics)
Stretch fabrics

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Test Test Method Description Minimum Performance Requirements Observation Comment
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics;
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised
declared care label. yarns; Fabrics containing luxury animal fibres.

Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on
PA1a +/- 3% Required for washable garments only
- Woven any adverse
changes)
Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on
PA1a +3/- 5% Required for washable garments only
- Jersey any adverse
changes)
Satisfactory
Not required if care label is to carry ‘Do not Dry Clean’
Dimensional Stability to Dry (Comment on
PA1b +/-3% symbol
Cleaning any adverse
changes)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing Required for washable garments only
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
4C, 4S
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning Not required if care label is to carry ‘Do not Dry Clean’
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
symbol

Page 16 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 4C, 4S
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water Not required for White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
Colour Fastness to Rubbing 4S
CA3 Not required for White or Cream fabrics
(Dry)
Colour Fastness to Rubbing 3-4S Not required for White or Cream fabrics
(Wet) Not required on pocketing fabrics
Fashion swimwear 50 mg/l 4C
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated
CA7 Sports swimwear 100 mg/l Required for Swimwear and Beachwear only
Water
Beachwear 20mg/l
Required for Swimwear and Beachwear only
CA8 Colour Fastness to Sea Water 4C, 4S
Not required for White or Cream fabrics

Foot Notes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 17 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 Hosiery and Socks Fabric Performance Table 8

Base Test Requirements

Arcadia
Test Test Method Description Minimum Performance Requirements Observation Comment
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which
must be tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked,
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from Burn-out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled
declared care label. fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns;
Fabrics containing luxury animal fibres.

Satisfactory
Required for Stockings & Tights
After washing – assess fit on an (Comment on
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing
appropriate size volumetric leg any adverse
Not required for nylon fine gauge hosiery
changes)
Satisfactory
+1% / -8%
(Comment on % Required for Socks only
PA1e Dimensional Stability of Socks Fit sock to relevant board before and
shrinkage or Assess Foot and Leg length only
after wash
extension)
175kPa Tights and stockings only Not required for Socks
PA3 Bursting Strength
350kPa Heavy weight tights

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Test Test Method Description Minimum Performance Requirements Observation Comment
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance from fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/
declared care label. metallised yarns; Fabrics containing luxury animal fibres.

Satisfactory
Stockings & tights
After washing – assess fit on an (Comment on
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing
appropriate size volumetric leg any adverse
Not required for nylon fine gauge hosiery
changes)
Satisfactory.
+1% / -8%
(Comment on % Socks only
PA1e Dimensional Stability of Socks Fit sock on relevant board before and
shrinkage or Assess Foot and Leg length only
after wash
extension)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing
4-5S (contrast trim)
4C, 4S Not required on fabrics containing nylon, silk or wool.
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water
4-5S (contrast trim) Not required for White or Cream fabrics
CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) 4S Not required for White or Cream fabrics
Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) 3-4S Not required for White or Cream fabrics
4C, 4S Acid
Required on fabrics containing nylon, silk or wool.
CA4 Colour Fastness to Perspiration 4C, 4S Alkali
Not required for White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (contrast trim)

NB: Unless specified socks for Arcadia (with the exception of Lambswool and Lambswool Blends) should be conducted
under ‘Tumble Dry’ conditions.
Please refer to Appendix B for Wash Programme and Drying Method

Foot Notes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Flammability Class 1 Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

Page 18 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 The following are non-exempt fibres:

Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 19 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

Fake Fur Fabrics and Trims
NB: Arcadia do not sell Real Fur Fabric Performance Table 9

Base Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must be
tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out,
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics
from declared care label. containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics containing luxury
animal fibres.

+/- 3% Woven
Satisfactory
Required for washable garments only
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on any
+/- 5% Knitted adverse changes)
Satisfactory
Not required if care label is to carry ‘Do Not Dry Clean’ symbol
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/- 3% (Comment on any
adverse changes)
Bursting strength Required for jersey fabrics only
PA3 350 kPa
(30mm diaphragm) Not required for trims
Required for cut pile fabrics only
PA5 Pile Loss (Impeller Tumble) 16% (Negligible)
Seam opening 6mm at 8kg
Required for woven fabrics only
PA10 Seam Slippage 3mm for contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Seam Strength 12kg Report type of seam Required for woven fabrics only, not required for trims
PA10
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam) failure

PA10 Tensile Strength 15kg

Required for woven fabrics only, not required for trims
Required for woven fabrics only, not required for trims
1000g
PA12 Tear Strength Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester
Not required for stretch fabrics
Required for Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4 3mm

Fibre shedding of long pile fabrics

PA35 Grade 4 Slight Required for cut pile fabrics, with pile longer than 3mm
(Tuft retention)

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics
from declared care label. containing luxury animal fibres.

+/- 3% Woven
Satisfactory
Required for washable garments only
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on any
+/- 5% Knitted adverse changes)
Satisfactory Not required if care label is to carry the ‘Do Not Dry Clean’
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/- 3% (Comment on any symbol
adverse changes)
Testing only required when requested by Supplier/
Appearance Assessment for Articles Satisfactory
Technologist
PA1g and Garments (See table in Test
Not to be used when garment must be tested for
(After cleaning as care label) Method section)
Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing Required for washable garments only.
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
Testing only required if care label is to state ‘Dry Clean Only’
4C, 4S
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning or care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’ symbol
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
4C, 4S
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water Not required for White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
4S
CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) Not required for White or Cream fabrics
Standard 4
CA5 Colour Fastness to Light
Required for Fabrics with pile/hair/nap/surface texture over
PA17 Surface Flash Grade 4 3mm

Foot Notes:
• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

Page 20 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 • Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook
• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 21 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

Denim Fabric Performance Table 10
Denim Weights – Light 4 – 7 ¾ oz/sq.yd ( 135 – 260 gm/ sq.m )
Medium 8 – 12 ¾ oz/sq.yd ( 261 – 430 gm/sq.m)
Heavy 13 – 15 ½ oz/ sq.yd ( 431 – 525 gm/ sq.m )
Base Test Requirements
Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must
be tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance.
Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Devore
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance
fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing
from declared care label.
metallic/ metallised yarns.

Satisfactory
+/-3% Required for washable garments only
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on any
adverse changes)
Satisfactory
Testing only required if care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/-3% (Comment on any
symbol
adverse changes)
Required for Elastane blends only
PA6c Residual Extension for Woven Fabric 5% Max

15000 revs – Light sewing

Martindale Abrasion Resistance –
PA7 20000 revs – Medium/Heavy All Trousers must achieve medium/ heavy standard
Determination of Thread Breakdown
Denim

15kg – Light
PA10 Tensile Strength Not required for stretch fabrics
21kg – Medium/Heavy denim

6mm at 8kg – Light

6mm at12kg – Medium/Heavy
PA10 Seam Slippage denim Not required for stretch fabrics
3mm for Cotton /synthetic blends
with a contrast warp and weft
fabrics
Seam Strength 12kg – Light sewing Report type of seam
PA10 Not required for stretch fabrics
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam) 18kg – Medium/Heavy denim failure

15kg – Light sewing Required for stretch fabrics only

PA10a Tensile Strength (Grab method)
21kg – Medium/Heavy denim
6mm at 8kg – Light sewing
Seam Slippage - Stretch woven seam 3mm for contrast warp and weft
Required for stretch fabrics only
PA10b method fabrics
6mm at12kg – Medium/Heavy
Denim
Seam Strength - Stretch woven seam 12kg – Light sewing Report type of seam Required for stretch fabrics only
PA10b method 18kg – Medium/Heavy denim failure
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam)

1000g – Light sewing

PA12 Tear Strength Not required for stretch fabrics
1200g – Medium/Heavy denim

4C No significant
CA10a Durability – Prints Required for fabrics with allover prints e.g. Pigment, plastisol,
(4-5 cross-staining) change
rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
4C No significant Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g. ribbons,
CA10b Durability - Embellishments
(4-5 cross-staining) change embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must be tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance.
Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Devore fabrics; Fabrics
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance
containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns.
from declared care label.
+/-3% Satisfactory
Required for washable garments only
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on any
adverse changes)

Satisfactory Testing only required if care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/-3% (Comment on any symbol
adverse changes)

Testing only required when requested by Supplier/

Appearance Assessment for Articles Satisfactory Technologist
PA1g and Garments (See table in Test Not to be used when garment must be tested for
(After cleaning as care label) Method section) Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)

4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing Required for washable garments only
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)

Page 22 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 4C, 4S Testing only required if care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) symbol

4C, 4S
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water Not required on White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
Not required on White or Cream fabrics
CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) 4S
3-4S
Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) Not required on White or Cream fabrics
3S Dark denim
CA5 Colour Fastness to Light Standard 4

Required for garments with allover or placement prints e.g.

4C No significant
CA10a Durability - Print Pigment, plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5S cross-staining) change

Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons,

4C No significant
CA10b Durability - Embellishments embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5S cross-staining) change

Foot Notes:

• Investigative test PA41 indicates inadequate neutralisation or rinsing may be requested. Minimum Performance
Requirements are pH 4.0 – 7.5. Please refer to Fabric Performance Table 14.

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 23 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

PVC & PU face coated fabrics, and Trims Fabric Performance Table 11
(Including Mock leather & Suede)

Base Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must
be tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out,
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics
from declared care label. containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics containing
luxury animal fibres.

+/- 3% (Fabrics with woven or non Satisfactory

PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing woven base) (Comment on any Required for washable garments only
+/- 5% (Fabrics with knitted base) adverse changes)

Satisfactory
Testing only required if care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/- 3% (Comment on any
symbol
adverse changes)
Bursting strength
PA3 350 kPa Fabrics with knitted or non woven base
(30mm diaphragm)
10000 rubs Progressive
PA7 Martindale Abrasion Resistance Shade change --- appearance change Suede effect fabrics
Grade 4 @ 5000 revs to be noted
Fabrics with woven or non woven base
15kg Light Sewing
PA10 Tensile Strength Trousers must achieve Tailoring standard
21kg Tailoring
Seam opening 6mm Fabrics with woven or non woven base
PA10 Seam Slippage 8 kg Light sewing Trousers must achieveTailoring standard
12kg Tailoring
Seam Strength 15kg Light sewing Report type of seam Fabrics with woven or non woven base
PA10
(Fabric strength with Standard Seam) 18kg Trousers failure
Fabrics with woven or non woven base
1000g Light sewing
PA12 Tear Strength Not required for 100% filament nylon or polyester (except
1200 g Tailoring
microfibre and brushed or emerised fabrics)
Flex crumple
PA32 > 9000 cycles No coating failure Required for coated fabrics only

Resistance to Abrasion (Taber) Wear rating 4 No breakdown or

PA38 Required for coated fabrics only
CS10 wheels: 1000g load - 100 rubs Shade change 4 removal of coating
4C No significant
CA10a Durability – Prints Required for fabrics with allover prints e.g. Pigment, plastisol,
(4-5 cross-staining) change
rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
4C No significant Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g. ribbons,
CA10b Durability - Embellishments
(4-5 cross-staining) change embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics
from declared care label. containing luxury animal fibres.

+/- 3% (Fabrics with woven or Satisfactory Required for washable garments only
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing bonded fibre base) (Comment on any Not required if care label is to state ‘ Sponge Clean only ‘ or
+/- 5% (Fabrics with knitted base) adverse changes) ‘Wipe with a damp cloth ‘

Satisfactory
Testing only required if care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/- 3% (Comment on any
symbol
adverse changes)
Testing only required when requested by Supplier/
Appearance Assessment for Articles Satisfactory
Technologist
PA1g and Garments (See table in Test
Not to be used when garment must be tested for
(After cleaning as care label) Method section)
Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing Required for washable garments only.
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)

4C, 4S Testing only required if care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean’
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) symbol

4C, 4S
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)

CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) 4S

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) 3-4S

Page 24 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 CA5 Colour Fastness to Light Standard 4
4C No significant Required for garments with allover or placement prints e.g.
CA10a Durability - Print
(4-5S cross-staining) change Pigment, plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C No significant
CA10b Durability - Embellishments embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
(4-5S cross-staining) change

Foot Notes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 25 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

Neckties Fabric Performance Table 12

Base Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on all fabrics except the following which must be
tested at Bulk:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out,
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance Devore fabrics; Fabrics containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics
from declared care label. containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics containing luxury
animal fibres.

+/-3% - For Woven fabrics

Satisfactory
Dimensional Stability to Washing
PA1a (Comment on any
Required fro washable garments only
+3/-5% - For Knitted Fabrics adverse changes)

Satisfactory
Testing only required if care label will carry the ‘Dry Clean’
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/- 3% (Comment on any
Symbol
adverse changes)
Required for fabrics with allover prints e.g. Pigment, plastisol,
4C No significant
CA10a Durability – Prints rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
(4-5 cross-staining) change
4C No significant Required for fabrics with allover embellishments e.g. ribbons,
CA10b Durability - Embellishments
(4-5 cross-staining) change embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.

Bulk Test Requirements

Arcadia
Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Requirements
Reference
Required on each colourway of the following bulk fabrics:
0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. Pile fabrics; Chenille, Marl, Boucle fabrics; Flocked, Burn-out, Devore fabrics; Fabrics
PA15 Composition Analysis +/-3% manufacturing tolerance containing re-cycled fibres; Fabrics containing metallic/ metallised yarns; Fabrics
from declared care label. containing luxury animal fibres.

+/-3% - For Woven fabrics

Satisfactory
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing (Comment on any Only required for washable fabrics
+3/-5% - For Knitted Fabrics adverse changes)

Satisfactory
(Comment on any
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning +/- 3% Testing only required if care label will carry the ‘Dry Clean’
adverse changes)
Symbol
Testing only required when requested by Supplier/ Technologist
Appearance Assessment for Articles Satisfactory
Not to be used when garment must be tested for
PA1g and Garments (See table in Test
Durability wash (CA10a or CA10b)
(After cleaning as care label) Method section)
4C, 4S
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing Required for washable fabrics only.
4-5S (items with contrast trim)

4C, 4S Testing only required if care label is to state ‘Dry Clean’ only
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning
4-5S (items with contrast trim) or care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean ‘symbol

4C, 4S
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water Not required for White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (items with contrast trim)
4S
CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) Not required for White or Cream fabrics
3-4S
Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) Not required for White or Cream fabrics
Required for garments with allover or placement prints e.g.
4C No significant Pigment, plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
CA10a Durability - Print
(4-5S cross-staining) change

4C No significant Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons,

CA10b Durability - Embellishments
(4-5S cross-staining) change embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.

CA11 Colour Fastness to Water Spotting 4C Only required on silk & blends and acetate & blends

Foot Notes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in
contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods (see
Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations and test
• as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

Page 26 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

 • Trading with the USA: If you are selling product to Topshop or Topman after June 2008, your product will be sent to the
USA. It is important your product meets the following legislative requirements.

Arcadia
Test Method Minimum Performance
Test Observation Comment
Description Requirements
Reference
Applies to fabrics with a:
Plain surface: weighing less than 2.6 oz/ sq yd or 88 g/m sq.
and made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.
Raised surface: if made of non-exempt fiber/fibers.

The following are non-exempt fibres:

Flammability Class 1 Silk, Cotton, Kapok, Hemp, Linen, Flax, Jute, Abaca, Coir, Ramie,
USA 1
(16 CFR 1610) Acetate, Alginate, Cupro, Modal, Protein, Triacetate, Viscose, Chlorofibre,
Fluorofibre, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polycarbamide, Polyurethane,
Vinylal, Trivinyl, Elastodiene, Elastane, Glass fibre, Metal fibre, Metallised
fibre, Paper, Lyocell.

ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY

REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.

Burning rate shall not exceed 1.2 Applies to all vinyl fabric substrates
Flammability of
in. sec.
USA 2 Vinyl Film
(Based on 5 samples in length and ANY PRODCUTS THAT DO NOT MEET USA FLAMMABILITY
(16CFR 1611) REQUIREMENTS CANNOT BE SENT TO THE USA.
traverse direction)

Page 27 Fabric Handbook 14.10.05

Marketing claims Fabric Performance Table 13

Test Requirements

At the time that orders are placed, it is mandatory to back up any promotional / marketing claims using appropriate test methods.

Test Base and Bulk

Where appropriate tests must be carried out on composites (total fabric assembly) representing the final production.
Arcadia Test
Test Method Description Minimum Performance Requirements Comment
Reference
Light: 150-250g modulus
Extension & modulus Fabrics containing 10% or more elastane
‘Control Fabrics’ PA6b Med: 250-500g modulus
3.6kg load at 40% extension
Firm: 500-750g modulus
‘Easy Care’ (wool) PA18a Wrinkle Recovery for Wool Suiting Grade 4 Wool and wool blend suiting only
‘Non-iron’ PA18b
Assessment of Non-Iron Fabrics Grade 4
PA18c Assessment of Easy to Iron Knitted & Flat Woven
‘Easy-iron’ Grade 3.5
Fabrics
PA19a
‘Waterproof’ Hydrostatic Head 150cm Production seams must also be tested
ISO4 initial
‘Showerproof’ PA19c Water repellency (Spray rating)
ISO3 after 3 cleans
50% normal activity Test composite (total fabric assembly)
‘Breathable’ / ‘Cool and Dry’ PA19d Water Vapour Permeability
80% high activity Cool and dry must be used in conjunction with PA19g
PA19e
‘Windproof’ Air Permeability Zero airflow
PA19g Must be used in conjunction with Pa19d
‘Cool & Dry’ Fabric wicking rate (vertical suspension) 15 cm after 30 mins (minimum)
Test garment inner/ outer according to claim
PA19h
‘Thermal’ Determination of Thermal Resistance 3.5 tog (minimum) Test composite (total fabric assembly)

‘Stain Repellent’ finish PA36 Water drop test Standard 5 Must be used in conjunction with PA37
PA37
‘Stain Repellent’ finish Oil Repellency Standard 5 Must be used in conjunction with PA36
‘High Sun Protection Level’ PA40 UV protection UPF 30+

NB: When using Licenced marketing claims, the supplier must ensure that all Licence requirements are met
In the event that the above table does not include an appropriate test recommendation. Suppliers should agree the test methods required
with an Arcadia Technologist.

Page 28 Fabric Handbook 08/22/02

Investigative tests (to assess specific risks or resolve issues) Fabric Performance Table 14
Only required when requested by the Supplier or Arcadia Technologist

Arcadia Test Test Method Description Minimum Performance Requirements Observation Comment
Reference
CA9 Colour fastness to Steam Pleating 5C To assess the effect of steam & pressure representing the pleating process

CA15 Colour fastness to ozone 4C To assess the effect of atmospheric contaminants

CA18 Colour fastness to domestic laundering: 4C Enables identification of dyes sensitive to bleach from detergents
Oxidative Bleach Response
CA19 Phenollic yellowing 4S To assess the potential of white or pastel-coloured textiles to yellowing in transit or storage. The test
is specific to discolouration caused by the action of oxides of nitrogen on phenols.
CA20 Colour Fastness to Gas Fume Fading 4C To assess the effect of atmospheric contaminants
PA7a Determination of Abrasion Resistance of Socks No breakdown at 15,000 revs Not required on 100%
nylon or polyester
Shade change
Grade 4 @ 5000 revs
PA9 Martindale Progressive Shade Change Grade 4 at 5000 revs Shade change at
1000 rev intervals
PA10c Seam slippage (Garment seam method) Seam opening 6mm Assessment of seams from production garment
8kg Light Sewing NB: Testing of Seam Slippage, before and after cleansing, may be required when requested
14kg Tailoring by the Arcadia Technologist.
PA10c Seam strength (Garment seam method) 12kg Light Sewing Assessment of seams from production garment
18kg Tailoring
PA16a Free Formaldehyde
75ppm Intimate apparel
To identify possible cause of skin irritation
300ppm All other Items
PA16b Released Formaldehyde 500ppm all items
To identify possible cause of skin irritation
PA30 Fibre/colour transfer of microfibres No change – No fibre or colour transfer Microfibre fabrics only **
PA33 Fabric weight per square metre +/- 5% from nominal
PA39 Feather & down: Hygiene & cleanliness Compliance For fillings only To check for microbial cleanliness of the filling material
requirements
PA41 pH 4.0 - 7.5 To identify possible cause of skin irritation
Inadequate neutralisation or rinsing during dyeing can leave strong acid or alkali residues

Page 29 Fabric Handbook 08/22/02

`Leather and Suede
Fabric Performance Table 15
Skin Authentication / Specification
Tests to be carried out at the request of Arcadia Group Ltd, or their Supplier, to establish skin specification, before
order placement or to confirm production skin quality (Tests to be carried out by BLC Leather Technology Centre)

Arcadia Test Minimum Performance

Test Method Description Observation / Reporting Comment
Reference Requirements
Aniline 3-4
BS EN 20105: Coloured Leather dyed through Standard Grey Scale
Semi-Aniline 2-3 Applicable for all leathers and suede
AO2 / surface Readings
Aniline pigmented 1- 2
As specified Thickness gauge reading
ISO 2589 Thickness of Leather Applicable for all leathers and suede
reported in mm’s

Cross section reading Applicable for all leathers and suede

BS 3144:28 Finish Thickness As specified
reported in mm’s

Using Softness gauge,

IUP 36 Softness As specified Applicable for all leathers and suede
numerical value.

e.g. Nubuck, Full Grain,

N/A Grain Elevation As specified Applicable for all leathers and suede
Pigmented

Applicable for all leathers and suede

N/A Material Type As specified e.g Bovine, Lamb, Pig

Minimum Performance Test Requirements (To be carried out by a Arcadia Accredited Laboratory)
It is recommended to test Performance at Base and Bulk (Discuss with the Arcadia Brand Technologist)
It is advisable to test complete garments.
Continuity of the agreed performance is the responsibility of the Supplier, and any anticipated variations must be
discussed with Arcadia Technologist prior to production.
Arcadia Test Minimum Performance
Test Method Description Observation Comment
Reference Requirements
Dimensional Stability to Dry
Note differential changes.
Cleaning
PA1b +/-3% Handle and appearance Test whole garment
Maximum change in length and
should not be significant.
width

3-4S (Dry)
CA3 Colour Fastness (crocking) Nubuck and Suede only
3s (Wet)
BS EN ISO Fastness to 4 (Dry at 50 cycles)
Aniline, Semi –Aniline, and Pigmented only.
11640 (Vesilic rubbing) 3 (Wet at 20 cycles)

CA2 Colour Fastness to Water 4S

3 Aniline, Nubuck and

Colour Fastness to Light
CA4 Suede
(Change at blue wool scale 6)
4 Semi- aniline and
BS EN ISO 3-4 C
Colourfastness to Dry Cleaning
11643 4C (Pigmented)

Other Performance Tests

These tests are recommended and should be carried out as directed by the Arcadia Technologist / Supplier

90/ 46676 DC
Seam Slippage (3mm) 150N
ISO/CD 9238.2

90/46676DC
Seam Strength 250N
ISO/CD 9238.2
BS EN ISO
3777-2 Tear Strength 20N
(Bauman)

ISO 15700:1998 Water Spotting 3-4

ISO 11644 Finish Adhesion 2N/10mm Semi – Aniline and Pigmented leathers only

Determination of level of
IUC 18 Less than 3ppm
Chrome V I

Foot Notes:

• White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being
used in contrast to another part of the garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

Page 31 Fabric Handbook 05.05

• Promotional or Marketing claims being made of the product must be backed up using recognised test methods
(see Table 13)

• Product Safety: Please make sure you are aware of Product Safety and Hazardous Chemical considerations
and test as appropriate. Please refer to the Legal and Safety Requirements section of this handbook

• Suppliers are reminded that linings should be tested. Refer to Performance Table 7

• Investigative Tests may also be required when requested by the Arcadia Technologist

Page 32 Fabric Handbook 05.05

 Appendix A

Colour fastness requirements

Arcadia
International Standard Minimum Performance
Test Test Method Description Observation Comment
Reference. Requirements
Reference
4C, 4S
CA1 BS EN ISO 105-C06: 1997 Colour Fastness to Washing Washable garment only.
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
4C, 4S Not required on fabrics containing nylon, silk or wool.
CA2 BS EN ISO 105-E01: 1996 Colour Fastness to Water
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim) Not required on White or Cream fabrics
Not required on White or Cream fabrics
CA3 BS EN ISO 105-X12: 1995 Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry) 4S
Required on nightwear and underwear, swimwear and beachwear,
outerwear/rainwear, denim, hosiery, ties, linings, leather and all
Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet) 3-4S
pigment prints & dyes
Not required on White or Cream fabrics
4C, 4S Acid
Required on fabrics containing nylon, silk or wool.
CA4 BS EN ISO 105-E04: 1996 Colour Fastness to Perspiration 4C, 4S Alkali
Not required on White or Cream fabrics
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
Standard 4
CA5 BS EN ISO 105-BO2: 1999 Colour Fastness to Light Not required on hosiery, pocketing or linings
Standard 5 (swimwear/beachwear)
Testing only required if care label is to state ‘Dry Clean’ only
4C, 4S
CA6 Arcadia method Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning or care label is to carry the ‘Dry Clean ‘symbol
4-5S (Garments with contrast trim)
Not required on nightwear, underwear, swimwear
4C
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Fashion swimwear 50 mg/l Sports
CA7 BS EN ISO 105-E03: 1997 Swimwear and beachwear only
Water swimwear 100 mg/l
Beachwear 20mg/l
CA8 BS EN ISO 105-E02: 1996 Colour Fastness to Sea Water 4C, 4S Swimwear and beachwear only
CA9 BS EN ISO 105-P02: 1996 Colour Fastness to Steam Pleating 5C Investigative
4C No significant Required for garments with all over or placement prints e.g.
CA10a Arcadia method Durability - Print
4-5S cross-staining change Pigment, plastisol, rubber expanded, glitter, flock or similar.
Required for garments with embellishments e.g. ribbons,
4C No significant
CA10b Arcadia method Durability - Embellishments embroidery, sequins, diamante or similar.
4-5S cross-staining change
CA11 BS EN ISO 105-E07: 1997 Colour Fastness to Water Spotting 4C dry state Only required on ties & rainwear - when requested by Arcadia

CA15 BS EN ISO 105-G03: 1997 Colour Fastness to Ozone 4C Investigative

Slight uniform
CA16 Arcadia method Salt Water Corrosion Resistance 4 change in Required on swimwear trims: metallic trims whether coated or not
appearance
Colour fastness to domestic
CA18 BS ISO 105 – C08: 2001 laundering: Oxidative Bleach 4C Investigative
Response

CA19 Arcadia method Phenollic Yellowing 4S Investigative

Colour Fastness to Gas Fume

CA20 BS EN ISO 105-GO2: 1997 4C Investigative
Fading

White and Cream Fabrics need only be tested for colourfastness to Washing and Light, unless they are being used in contrast to another part of the
garment, in which case cross staining must also be tested.

Page 33 Fabric Handbook 05.05

 Appendix B

PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing: Wash Programme and Drying Methods

Colour fastness
Drying Method
Fibre Composition Wash Programme Method
Knitwear Woven/ Jersey
100% cotton 5A 40 degrees Flat dry Tumble dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

100% polyester & polyester / cotton 5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Nylon / cotton 5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

100% nylon 5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Polyester / nylon blends 5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Viscose, viscose blends
5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees
(Inc. viscose/polyester)
Acetate & blends (inc. viscose / acetate) 5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Other cellulosic blends 5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Acrylic and blends 5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Fabrics containing elastomeric fibres 5A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Silk and blends 7A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Wool and blends inc. washable wool (machine
7A 40 degrees Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees
washable wool)
Wool products promoted as tumble dry 7A 40 degrees Tumble dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees

Under wired bras Hand wash Flat dry CO6 A2S – 40 degrees
Hand wash test method to be used on request by Arcadia Technologist

Footnotes:

Test PA1a: If care label instructions are already confirmed before test PA1a is carried out, then the wash programme selected from the above
table, must be the same as the approved care instructions. If wash care instructions are not confirmed, then the appropriate wash programme
for the fibre composition should be selected.

Effect yarns less than 10% of total – use the temperature of the main fibre

Socks will be washed at Programme 7A, 40 degrees:

Wool & Wool Blend Socks (& other compositions when specified) - Flat dry
Other Compositions – Tumble Dry

29/08/2008 Page 34 Fabric Handbook 29/08/2008

Test Methods Used
Arcadia Physical National Standard
Test Ref.
PA1a Dimensional Stability to Washing BS EN 26330: 1994
PA1b Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning N/A
PA1c Measurement of Spirality N/A
PA1e Dimensional Stability of Socks N/A
PA1g Appearance Assessment for Articles & Garments N/A
PA2 Dimensional Stability to Steaming BS 4323: 1979 (1995)
PA3 Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938: 1999
PA4a Pilling Resistance (Martindale) BS EN ISO 12945 part 2: 2001
PA5 Pile Loss (Impeller tumble) N/A
PA6a Residual Extension of Knitted Fabrics BS 4952 part 2.4: 1992
PA6b Extension & Modulus BS 4952 part 2.1 & 2.2: 1992
PA6c Residual Extension for Woven Fabric N/A
PA7 Abrasion Resistance (Martindale) BS EN ISO 12947 part 2: 1999
PA7a Determination of Abrasion Resistance of Socks N/A
PA8 Nap Stability of Raised Fabrics N/A
PA9 Martindale Progressive Shade Change N/A
PA10 Determination of Tensile Strength, Seam Slippage & Seam Strength N/A
PA10a Tensile Strength - Grab Method BS EN ISO 13934 part 2: 1999
PA10b Seam Slippage & Seam Strength (stretch fabrics containing elastane) BS EN ISO 13935 part 2: 1999
PA10c Seam Slippage – garment seam method N/A
PA12 Tear Strength BS EN ISO 13937 part 1: 2000
PA14 Snagging Resistance (Mace) N/A
PA15 Fibre Composition Analysis 96/73/EC & 73/44/EEC EU
dir.2006/2/EC
PA16a Determination of Free Formaldehyde BS EN 14184 part 1: 1998
PA16b Determination of Released Formaldehyde BS EN 14184 part 2: 1998
PA17 Surface Flash N/A
PA17a Flammability for Nightwear BS 5438: 1976
PA17b Flammability for Outerwear BS EN ISO 6941: 1995
PA18a Wrinkle Recovery AATCC 128: 1994
PA18b Assessment of Non-Iron Fabrics BS EN ISO 15487: 2001
PA18c Assessment of Easy to Iron Fabrics N/A
PA19a Hydrostatic Head BS EN 20811: 1992
PA19c Resistance to Surface Wetting (Spray Test) BS EN 24920: 1992
PA19d Water Vapour Permeability BS 3424 part 34: 1992
PA19e Air Permeability BS EN ISO 9237: 1995
PA19f Wet ability of Textile Fabrics BS 4554: 1970 (1996)
PA19g Fabric Wicking Rate N/A
PA19h Determination of Thermal Resistance – Single Plate Method BS 4745: 1990
PA20 Chenille Pile Loss N/A
PA30 Fibre/ Colour Transfer of Microfibres N/A
PA31 Fibre Percolation for Feather & Down Products BS EN 12132 part 1: 1999
PA31a Fibre Percolation for Synthetic Fibres N/A
PA32 Flex Crumple BS EN ISO 7854: 1997
BS 3424 part 9: 1996 method C
PA33 Fabric Weight BS EN 12127: 1998
PA35 Fibre Shedding of Long Pile Fabrics N/A
PA37 Oil Repellency AATCC 118: 1997
PA38 Resistance to Abrasion - Taber ASTM – D3884: 1992
PA39 Feather & Down: Hygiene & Cleanliness Requirements BS EN 12935: 2001
PA40 UV Penetration BS 7914: 1998
PA41 Determination of pH of aqueous extracts BS EN 1413: 1998

# N/A For details refers to the section on individual test methods

Page 35 Fabric Handbook29/08/2008

Arcadia Colour Fastness National Standard
Test Ref.
CAa General Principles of Testing for Colour Fastness BS EN ISO 105 – A01: 1996
CAb Assessment of Colour Fastness Using Grey Scales BS EN ISO 20105 – A02: 1995
BS EN ISO 20105 – A03: 1995
CA1 Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 – C06: 1997
CA2 Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105 – E01: 1996
CA3 Colour Fastness to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105 – X12: 1995
CA4 Colour Fastness to Perspiration BS EN ISO 105 – E04: 1996
CA5 Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105 – B02: 1999
CA6 Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning N/A
CA7 Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water BS EN ISO 105 – E03: 1997
CA8 Colour Fastness to Sea Water BS EN ISO 105 – E02: 1996
CA9 Colour Fastness to Steam Pleating BS EN ISO 105 – P02: 1996
CA10a Durability – Prints N/A
CA10b Durability – Embellishments N/A
CA11 Colour Fastness to Water Spotting BS EN ISO 105 – E07: 1997
CA15 Colour Fastness to Ozone BS EN ISO 105 – G03: 1997
CA16 Salt Water Corrosion Resistance N/A
CA18 Colour Fastness to Oxidative Bleach BS ISO 105 – C08: 2001
CA19 Phenolic Yellowing N/A
CA20 Colour Fastness to Burnt Gas Fumes BS EN ISO 105-GO2: 1997

# N/A For details refers to the section on individual test methods

Page 36 Fabric Handbook29/08/2008