United States

Department of Agriculture

Forest Service

Northeastern Area
State and Private Forestry

NA-FR-04-07
NA-FR-04-07
November 2008
November 2008

Tree
Tree
Owner’s
Owner’s
Manual
Manual
for the
for the
Northeastern
Northeastern
and
and
Midwestern
Midwestern
United States
United States
www.treeownersmanual.info
Tree Owner's
Tree Owner's Manual
Manual Table of Contents

for the Northeastern and

Important Precautions ................................ 1

Midwestern United States

Model Information and Parts Diagram ........ 2

Deciduous Model..................................... .2

Authors: Evergreen Model...................................... 3

Jill R. Johnson, Forest Service Packaging .................................................. 3

Roots ....................................................... 3

Gary R. Johnson, University of Minnesota

Trunk and Branches ................................. 3

Maureen H. McDonough, Michigan State Pre-Installation (Preparing to Plant) ........... 4

University Materials ................................................ 4

Lisa L. Burban, Forest Service Instructions ............................................. 4

Installation (Planting) ................................. 6

Janette K. Monear, Tree Trust Materials ................................................. 6

Instructions ............................................. 6

Illustrator: Maintenance Schedule............................. 12

Maintenance Instructions ......................... 13

Jennifer Salveson Watering................................................ 13

Installing a Trunk Guard ........................ 14

Technical Reviewers: Preventing and Correcting

Katie Armstrong, Forest Service Encircling Roots .................................... 15

Mulching ............................................... 16

Bert Cregg, Michigan State University

Fertilizing .............................................. 16

Paul Dykema, City of Lansing, MI Checking Tree Health............................ 17

Dennis Fallon, Xcel Energy Checking Tree Safety ............................ 17

Pruning ................................................. 18

Danielle Fitzko, Vermont Dept. of Forests, Protecting Trees from Construction

Parks, and Recreation Damage ................................................ 24

Justine Gartner, Missouri Dept. of Record of Tree Types and Locations ........ 26

Conservation Service and Repair................................... 28

Sharon Lilly, International Society of How to Hire an Arborist ......................... 28

Arboriculture Record of Service.................................. 29

Troubleshooting ....................................... 30

Pam Louks, Indiana Dept. of Natural Other Sources of Help.............................. 31

Resources In the Event of an Emergency .................. 32

Rita McKenzie, Purdue University Removal and Disposal ............................. 33

Whole Tree............................................ 33

Jill Pokorny, Forest Service

Trimmings ............................................. 33

Bob Ricard, University of Connecticut Leaves .................................................. 33

Tom Wawra, Bachman’s Landscaping Buying a New Tree................................... 34

Decide on the type of tree. .................... 34

Les Werner, University of Wisconsin- Select a high quality tree at the

Stevens Point nursery. ................................................. 35

Paul Wierzbicki, Tree Trust Additional Sources of Information............. 35

Transporting Your Tree................ Back cover

Ron Zillmer, Mid-State Technical College

Storing Your Tree Until Planting...Back cover

Northeastern Area
State and Private Forestry
Forest Service
U.S. Department of Agriculture
11 Campus Blvd., Suite 200 The use of trade or firm names in this
Newtown Square, PA 19073 publication is for reader information and
NA-FR-04-07 does not imply endorsement of the U.S.
November 2008 Department of Agriculture of any product or
www.na.fs.fed.us service.
IMPortant PrecautIons
WARNING: To reduce the risk of personal injury or permanent damage to your
tree, read and follow these important precautions:

‰ Do not dig until you are sure there are no buried utilities. Call the free
utility marking service at 1-888-258-0808 (p. 5).

‰ Never prune trees or branches that are within 10 feet of utility lines;
contact your local utility company.

‰ Keep lawn mowers and weed whips away from the base of your tree.

‰ Do not tie string, ribbon, wire, or pet leashes around the trunk or
branches.

‰ Do not allow construction activities (digging, repaving, grading, building)

within the Protected Root Zone (p. 24).

‰ Do not top your tree (p. 23).

‰ When hiring an arborist, select someone who has general liability

insurance of at least $1 million per occurrence and $2 million aggregate
(p. 28).

‰ Check with your city or town to see if there are laws regarding planting
and pruning.

‰ If you cannot prune your tree with both feet on the ground, hire an
arborist (p. 28).

‰ Do not let children climb trees that have branches within 25 feet of a
power line.

‰ Do not nail or screw anything into your tree.

These symbols are used throughout this manual:

= Potential for personal injury or legal issues

! = Potential for permanent damage to tree

> > > > > > > Save this manual for future reference. < < < < < < <

Tree Owner’s Manual 1

 Model InforMatIon and Parts dIagraM
Deciduous Model
(loses leaves in the autumn)

Central Leader*
(one main branch that extends straight
up from the trunk)

Branches
Branch
Bark
Crown Ridge
(branches
and
leaves)

Note:
]
Trunk
Flowers and fruit Collar
vary by tree type in
shape and time of
appearance

Dripline
(line on the ground under
Ground Trunk the outermost edge of a
Surface Graft Union* tree's crown)
Root Collar

Roots

*Not present on all trees

2 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Model Information and Parts Diagram

Evergreen Model
(keeps green leaves all
year long)

Crown

Dripline
(line on the ground under Ground
the outermost edge of a
tree's crown) Surface
Root
Collar

Roots

PacKagIng
Roots Trunk and
Your tree has been packaged in one of Branches
the following ways:

Balled and burlapped Containerized

Twine around

branches

Bare root Tag(s)

(no soil or packaging)

Trunk wrap

Tree Owner’s Manual 3

Pre-InstallatIon (PreParIng to Plant)
Materials

‰ Tape measure
‰ Phone

Instructions

Step 1: Check above ground.

! Your tree will grow.

Do not plant your tree where it will interfere with buildings, overhead utility lines,
pavement, or intersection sightlines as it gets bigger.

Make sure your planting spot is at least. . .

‰ 3 feet from pavement or fencing on all sides

‰ 15 feet from buildings or other trees
‰ 25 feet from overhead electric wires, if your tree will grow
taller than 30 feet.

If your tree will grow taller than 30 feet, do not plant it within 25 feet of overhead
electric wires.

Trees over 30 feet

> 25 feet from wires > 15 feet between trees

> 15 feet from buildings

> 3 feet from pavement

4 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Pre-Installation (Preparing to Plant)

Step 2: Check below

ground. Will Your Tree Become
a "Public Tree," Under
It’s the law to call (in most states). the Control of Your
City or Town?

Shocks can be deadly.

Public trees are those located
on municipal property or within
At least 72 hours in advance of
the road right-of-way (ROW)–
planting, call the underground
utility locating service in your area regardless of who planted the
to be sure that there are no buried tree.
utilities where you want to plant.
Most services will mark utilities (e.g.,
electric, cable, gas) for free. The ROW is an extension of your
city’s or town’s control beyond
the street edge, oftentimes
Call before you dig! reaching 10 feet or more beyond
1-888-258-0808
the pavement.

 Trees located within the ROW

are under the jurisdiction of the
municipality.

In these cases, state or local

laws may dictate the type and
Step 3: Check laws. location of trees that can be
Some government agencies have planted in the ROW. Check
laws governing tree planting, care, with your city or town regarding
and removal. Check with your town ordinances or policies pertaining
or municipality to be sure that you are to public trees.
complying with these regulations and
landscape ordinances.

Tree Owner’s Manual 5

InstallatIon (PlantIng)*

Materials

How to Move
Your Tree ‰ Tape measure or yard stick

Carry your tree by its root ‰ Metal skewer, coat hanger,

package (ball or container)—not stout wire, or pointed
the trunk! Steady it by holding the screwdriver
lowest part
lowest part of
of the
the trunk.
trunk. ‰ Shovel
Large containerized
Large containerized trees
trees may
may
‰ Sharp knife or scissors
be tipped
be tipped onto
onto the
the bottom
bottom edge
edge
and rolled.
and rolled. ‰ Hand pruner—bypass type
(p. 19)

‰ 5 gallons of water

‰ 4-5 cubic feet of mulch (one

wheelbarrow load or two
large bags)

‰ Large-gauge wire cutter if

For balled-and-burlapped
For balled-and-burlapped trees,
trees, balled and burlapped
you may fifind
nd it easiest to place
tarps or ropes under the ball as ‰ Hand saw if containerized
a sling.
a sling. and the main root system
is more than 1 inch below
the soil surface (Step 4). An
inexpensive folding pruning
saw works well, but any saw
would work.

Instructions

A dolly
A dolly or
or other
other cart
cart may
may also
also be
be
used.
! If you have NOT yet read the
section on Pre-Installation
(Preparing to Plant), do so now.

! Do not dig until Step 6.

! Protect the trunk.

Even a small wound on
a young tree can cause *Hargrave, R.; Johnson, G.; Zins, M. 2002.

permanent damage.
Planting trees and shrubs for long-
term health. St. Paul, MN: University of
Minnesota Extension Service. 12 p.

6 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Installation (Planting) - Instructions

Step 1. Move the tree.

! Young trees are not 2 by 4’s.
Do not lift or carry your tree by its trunk (unless bare root). See the sidebar on How
to Move Your Tree.

Step 2. Remove trunk and branch packaging.

Remove trunk wrap, twine around the branches, and labels. Leave any
root packaging in place for now.

Step 3. Prune critical branches and no others!

Prune only branches that are broken or dead. You may also remove
competing leaders, if present. Most trees should have one central leader
(p. 2-3). If there are two or more leaders, choose which one you want to
remain and remove the other(s).

! Minimize pruning at the time of planting!

Trees need as many leaves as possible to recover from transplant shock (leaves
produce the tree’s food).

! Do not prune oaks in the spring or early summer if you live in an area with oak
wilt (see map, p. 21)!

See “Pruning” p. 18.

Two leaders
2
1
prune
here

Dead

Broken prune
here
prune
here

Tree Owner’s Manual 7

Installation (Planting) - Instructions

Step 4. Find the main root system, and remove excess

soil.
Remove soil from the top of the root ball until the top of the main root system
is exposed. There should be several roots at least as big around as a pencil
extending in opposite directions from the trunk. You may have to remove 2-4
inches of soil before finding the main roots.

TIP: Probe the soil ball with a wire, kabob skewer, or

screwdriver to fi nd the main root system and estimate how
much soil to remove. If the roots are located more than 4
inches deep, return the tree to the place of purchase.

Bare root trees: There is no soil or root packaging to remove.

Balled-and-burlapped trees: Remove the top of the root ball packaging. Cut
any twine from around the trunk taking care not to nick the bark. Then bend the
wire basket back off the top of the ball. Remove soil from the top of the root ball
until the main root system is found. You may have to cut some of the wire. Leave
the rest of the wire basket in place until the tree is put in the ground.

Containerized trees: Remove the entire container. Pull or cut the soil off the top
of the root ball until the main root system is found.

TIP: A saw works well to remove the top layer of soil. Be careful not to cut into
the trunk.

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 Installation (Planting) - Instructions

Step 5. Remove problem roots.

A. Remove all small roots above the main root system with a hand pruner.

B. Examine the main root system for roots that extend out but then turn to
the side or back towards the trunk. Prune these roots at the point where
they turn.

prune here

Step 6. Determine how deep and wide to dig.

A. Measure the height of the remaining root ball. This is exactly how deep
you should dig the hole.

B. Measure the approximate width of the root ball or root system. Multiply
this by 2, or if your soil is hard (clay or compacted), by at least 3. This is
how wide you should dig the hole.

Bare root Containerized Balled and burlapped

(roots spread out flat (excess soil removed) (excess soil removed)
on the ground)

h
h h
h
h
h

h = depth of planting hole

Width of hole should be 2-3 times the

width of the root ball

Tree Owner’s Manual 9

Installation (Planting) - Instructions

Step 7. Dig a hole.

!
Do not put a $100 tree in a $10 hole. The dimensions of the hole are very
important in determining the survival of your tree. Dig the hole ONLY as deep as the
root system (NO deeper!).

HOLE DEPTH = height of root ball (h)

HOLE WIDTH = width of root ball (w) x 2 or 3
w

Step 8. Put the tree in the hole.

If the tree has a heavy root ball, slide it into the hole, and straighten the trunk.

Step 9. For balled-and-burlapped trees, remove root ball

packaging.
Balled-and-burlapped trees: Without loosening the root ball, cut, peel back, and
remove as much of the wire basket and burlap as possible (at least the top third).

!
A root ball should remain a root ball. If it starts to fall apart as you take off the
wire and burlap, backfill the hole with enough soil to stabilize it. Then carefully
remove the wire and burlap, and backfill as you go to keep the root ball intact.

10 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Installation (Planting) - Instructions

Step 10. Backfill with

the same soil. To Stake or
Make sure the trunk is straight. Put Not to Stake
the original soil back in the hole,
breaking up large clods, and working
it in with your hands or a shovel. Some trees need to be staked
to remain standing straight in
their new planting site. Stake
Step 11. Water. only if the root ball is unstable
or the trunk is bending. Use
Water the root ball and entire
wide nylon, canvas straps,
backfilled area.
or nylon stockings wrapped
around one side of the trunk.
The tree should not be tied
Step 12. Mulch.
tightly.
Put a 2-4 inch layer of mulch over the
backfilled area. Pull mulch away from
the trunk so that none touches the
bark. If the root ball
is unstable,
! Mulch becomes soil. use 1-3 stakes
There should never be more than 4 attached LOW
inches of mulch over the roots. Too on the trunk.
much can prevent the roots from
getting necessary oxygen.

Backfill
If the trunk is
bending, use 1
Water stake attached
stake attached
HIGHER (at least
6 inches
6 inches below
below
the first
first set of
branches).
Mulch
No!

! Remove stakes after

1-2 years.
Less than 4 inches
deep, never touching
the trunk

Tree Owner’s Manual 11

 MaIntenance schedule
Follow this maintenance schedule for the life of your tree. Detailed instructions
are on the pages indicated in parentheses.

Timeline
Type of this maintenance schedule for the life of your tree. Detailed instructions
Follow
At planting Years Years After
Care
are on the pages indicated in parentheses.
1 to 3 4 to 10 10 years
Water 5 gallons Correct amount is As needed
(p. 13) critical from from
spring through spring
autumn through
autumn
Mulch 2-4 inches deep, Check and adjust
(p. 16) not against trunk level in spring

Protect Trunk As needed Check in spring and N/A

(p. 14) autumn

Stake Only if Check in spring and N/A N/A

(p. 11) needed autumn. Remove
after 1-2 years.
Clean Root N/A Clean root collar
Collar every year
(p. 15)

Check for Check before N/A Check

Encircling planting (p. 9) every 4-5
Roots years
(p. 9, 15) (p. 15)

Check Health Select a healthy Inspect leaves,

(p. 17, 35) tree (p. 35) branches, crown
and trunk every year
(p. 17)
Check Safety N/A Inspect in summer,
(p. 17) winter, and after
storms (p. 17)

Prune* Prune only critical Prune lightly in Year Every 3 Fruit trees
(p. 7, 18-23) branches or to 2 or 3 (p. 18-23) years every 1-3
eliminate extra years,
leaders deciduous
(p. 7) shade trees
every 5 years,
evergreens
only as needed

*For some tree types, pruning or removal during spring and summer requires special care to
prevent disease transmisssion. See p. 20 for details.

N/A—not applicable

12 www.treeownersmanual.info
 MaIntenance InstructIons
Watering*
An important factor in tree survival is providing the right amount of water. The
first 3 years are most critical, but pay attention to watering needs throughout the
tree’s life.

How often and how

much? First 3 years after planting:
Frequency depends on soil
drainage. Soils that drain quickly  Check every other day in
will require more frequent watering fast-draining soils, weekly
than those that drain slowly. To in slow-draining soils
determine your soil’s drainage
rate, see p. 34. The best way to Water within the
know how often and how much to dripline
water is to check the soil moisture
at 6 inches below the surface.
Water when dry.

First 3 years after planting: If the

All other years:
soil is dry, provide about 1-1/2  Check
gallons of water per diameter inch weekly
of the trunk.
Water
within the
All other years: Because soil type dripline or,
and weather conditions influence for large
the demand for water, irrigation trees, at
schedules and amounts vary. the base
and at the
! Tree roots need oxygen. dripline
Soil saturated with water
for more than 24 hours can
prevent roots from getting
Where? Water the area within the dripline.
oxygen. Therefore, watering
For large trees, focus watering on the area
too much is as dangerous
within 6 feet of the trunk and at the dripline.
as watering too little (and is
harder to correct). When? Start checking soil moisture and
watering when necessary in early spring,
and continue until the soil freezes.

*Gilman, E. 1997. Trees for urban and suburban landscapes. Albany, NY: Delmar Publishers. 662 p.

Tree Owner’s Manual 13

Maintenance Instructions

Installing a Trunk Guard

Trunk Protection
Young deciduous trees have thin bark that can easily be damaged by animals
and equipment (most commonly string trimmers and lawn mowers). Mulch does
a great job of keeping grass (and therefore grass-cutting equipment) away from
trunks, but rodents such as rabbits and mice like to chew on young bark (usually
low on the trunk). Deer also scrape tree trunks with their antlers.

To prevent long-term damage associated with trunk wounding, install plastic

tubing or hardware cloth (stiff wire fencing with 1/4-1/2 inch mesh squares)
around the trunk. The tube should be big enough around to allow 1-4 inches of
space between it and the trunk. It should be 1-3 feet tall (extending above the
anticipated snow depth) for small rodents and as tall as possible for deer.

How? Wrap the tube around the trunk, taking care not to scratch the bark. Use
a few pieces of wire to keep the tube closed. Push the tube into the ground or
mulch less than an inch. Attach it to one or two stakes if necessary.

When? At a minimum, the trunk should be protected during the winter months
(apply early in the autumn to prevent deer scraping). Protection can be applied
anytime and left on all year round, as long as it does not touch the bark.

! Your tree will grow.

As the tree grows, the tube will need to be enlarged and eventually removed.

14 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Maintenance Instructions

Preventing and Correcting Encircling Roots*

Problem How to Prevent

Roots that encircle the trunk Plant at correct depth (see Planting
will likely cause health or safety Steps 4-7, p. 8-10). Annually clean
problems later. Make sure that soil the root collar by removing soil and
or mulch is never piled against the mulch.
root collar.
 Check
yearly

How to Monitor and

Root likely to become a problem Correct
(when trunk and root meet) Every 4-5 years, check for roots that
encircle the trunk. Use a hand trowel
to loosen and remove the soil around
the base of the tree until the first set of
roots is found.

Expose the root collar

Problem root already touching the trunk

TIP: Removing soil with a wet-dry

vacuum speeds the work without
harming the roots.

If a tree has an encircling root,

leave the top of the root exposed,
and consult an arborist regarding
Covering the root collar with soil or treatment. When caught early, this
mulch encourages encircling roots can be an inexpensive and effective
way to save your tree.

*Johnson, G.; Fallon, D. 2007. Stem girdling roots: the underground epidemic killing our trees. St. Paul,
MN: University of Minnesota.

Tree Owner’s Manual 15

Maintenance Instructions

Mulching

Maintain a ring of mulch around the tree (the wider the better). Organic materials
like wood chips and leaves are best. Wood chips will take longer to break down
and, therefore, will not require replacement as often.
not No!  Check
against yearly
bark,
<4 inches deep

TIP: Newspaper kills grass.

If there is grass in the area that needs to be mulched, put a 5-page layer of
newspaper over the grass, and then add mulch on top (this will help keep the
grass from growing up through the mulch).

!
Mulch becomes soil.
There should never be more than 4 inches of mulch over the roots. Too much
mulch or soil can prevent oxygen from reaching the roots.

Fertilizing

Apply nitrogen fertilizer ONLY if diagnosis by an arborist indicates that it is

necessary.

Apply other fertilizers ONLY if a soil test shows that nutrients are lacking.

! Do not overdose.
Fertilizer that is not absorbed by the tree has the potential to alter the soil or leach
out and pollute groundwater, rivers, ponds, and lakes. Overdosing with fertilizer
can harm your tree.

! Applying “weed and feed” to your lawn might injure or kill your tree.
Some combination weed killers and lawn fertilizers will injure trees. Do not use
anything that states it will kill broadleaved weeds (most deciduous trees are
broadleaved). Preemergent herbicides are safe to use near trees.

16 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Maintenance Instructions

Checking Tree Health

Tree health can be difficult to determine, but checking your tree yearly may help
you notice problems as they appear.

Is the current year’s growth much less than past years’ growth? Fast growth
does not mean good health, but a dramatic reduction in growth rate may be an
indication of poor health.

TIP: Look at the branch tips or tree top. Current year’s branches will typically be
smaller in diameter and a different color.

Also inspect the size, color, and distribution of the leaves. Look at individual
leaves as well as the whole crown for differences between branches or sections
of the crown.

Inspect the base of the trunk for damage (e.g., from rodents
or string trimmers).

Also inspect the base of the tree to see if there is a flat side
to the trunk.

If anything is found, follow the guidance in the Troubleshooting section, p. 30-31.

Checking Tree Safety

! Healthy trees can fall down.

A tree may be green and lush, but that does not guarantee that it is structurally safe.

Inspect trees anytime, but especially after storms. Examine the crown, branches,
trunk, and area around the roots for these common dangers:

• Broken, dead, or hanging branches Branch Unions

• Cracks, fungi, and cavities Weak—
bark
• Weak trunk or branch unions
grown in
• Encircling root compressing the
Strong—
trunk (a flat-sided trunk at the
bark
ground level is a good indicator).
pushed out
See illustration above.
• Recent lean (especially if the soil or
grass has lifted on one side).

If anything is found, or if in doubt, contact an arborist, p. 28.

Tree Owner’s Manual 17

Maintenance Instructions

Pruning*

Pruning can be dangerous work. Follow these safety precautions to be sure you
are around to enjoy your tree.

Electricity flows through branches.

Never prune trees or branches that are within 10 feet of utility lines; instead contact
your local utility company.

Ladders and trees do not mix.

If pruning cannot be done with both feet on the ground, hire an arborist (p. 28).

Chainsaws cut limbs.

If power equipment is required, hire an arborist (p. 28).

The main reasons for pruning trees are safety, health, and esthetics. Pruning
can encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of
damage during severe weather.

Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or
property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or
driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines.

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning

the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing
crossing and rubbing branches.

Pruning for esthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees
or stimulating flower production.

*Except where noted, this section has been adapted in part, from: Bedker, P.; O’Brien, J.; Mielke, M.
1995. How to prune trees. [Newtown Square], PA: USDA Forest Service Northeastern Area. 30 p.

18 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Maintenance Instructions - Pruning

Where to Cut
Support the branch with one hand while you make the cut to prevent the bark
from ripping. If the branch is too large to support, use the three-step method (see
details below).
For the final cut, look for the branch bark ridge and trunk collar. Begin the cut just
outside of the branch bark ridge, and angle down away from the trunk. Stay close
to the trunk collar without cutting into it (see images below).

Three-step method
branch 1. Cut one-third of the way
bark ridge small larger
through the branch on the branch
branch
under side.
2. Go 2-4 inches beyond the
 undercut to remove the
 branch.  
]  3. Make the final cut just
outside the branch bark
trunk collar final
ridge and trunk collar.
cut

Pruning Tools

Hand pruner—bypass type Lopper—bypass type

B
E Bypass blades cross each other
S like those in a scissors.
T Hand saw Pole saw or pruner

Pruning saws usually have

curved blades with teeth that
cut when you pull.

O Bow saws can be used, but it is often difficult to fit the

K saw between branches to make the correct pruning cut.

Tree Owner’s Manual 19

Maintenance Instructions - Pruning

How Often
Beginning 2 years after planting, prune lightly every year or every other year.
After 10 years, frequency of pruning depends on the type of tree and amount of
shade the canopy receives.

! Do not remove more than 25 percent of the tree’s live branches (and therefore
leaves) at any one time.

Tree Type First 10 10+ Years

years After Planting
Fruit trees Once every 1-2 years Once every 1-3 years
Deciduous shade trees Once every 1-2 years Once every 4-7 years*
Evergreen trees Only as needed** Only as needed**

* Pruning lightly and more frequently is better than pruning heavily and less often.
** Evergreen trees usually need pruning only if they are diseased or their branches need to
be raised up from the ground. In either case, prune off the entire branch (p. 19).

Removal of the following can be done every year:

• Broken, dead, or rubbing branches
• Branches sprouting from the base of the trunk.

Time of Year
Winter is best time of year to prune because branches are easy to see, diseases
cannot be spread, and there is minimal stress to the tree. But for most trees,
pruning can be done at any time. Exceptions are trees that are prone to fire blight
or oak wilt.

Trees susceptible to fire blight include mountain ash, apple, crabapple, hawthorn,
pear, flowering quince, and pyracantha. Trees susceptible to oak wilt include
most oaks. To minimize disease infection of these types of trees, follow the
pruning guidelines on the next page.

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 Maintenance Instructions - Pruning

FIRE BLIGHT
Range: All counties in the United States

Types of trees: mountain-ash, apple, crabapple, hawthorn, pear,

flowering quince, pyracantha

Pruning guidelines: Avoid pruning from the time that spring flowers emerge
until leaves drop. If pruning must be done on these
tree types during disease-transmission times, sanitize
pruning tools before each branch is pruned. Use
rubbing alcohol, or household bleach diluted 1 to 9
with water. Tools should be immersed in the solution,
preferably for 1-2 minutes. Bleach is corrosive to
metal, so tools should be thoroughly cleaned with soap
and water after each use.

OAK WILT
Range: See map below

Types of trees: oaks

Pruning guidelines: Avoid pruning from early spring through early summer
(April, May, and June in the Lakes States). Check with
your plant diagnostic clinic (see page 31 for phone
numbers) to get exact dates for your area. If pruning
must be done on oaks during disease-transmission
times, immediately apply wound paint after the cut is
made.

! Wound dressings are not necessary in any other case. In fact, they may be
harmful.

Tree Owner’s Manual 21

Maintenance Instructions - Pruning

Pruning Young Trees*

Pruning a young tree saves money. Removing small branches is fairly easy
compared with waiting until limbs are large, when pruning can be costly and
a bigger risk to the tree. Correctly pruning a tree when it’s young will help it
develop a strong, well-balanced crown. Prune to have the following:

A. Branches that are well-attached to the trunk

Branches with a branch bark ridge (bark pushed out at the point where the
branch attaches to the trunk) are less likely to break off in wind or heavy ice or
snow. Branches that are less than half the diameter of the trunk are also less
likely to break off in storms.
B. One central leader
Most trees will be strongest if they have one central leader (instead of
multiple). Unless your tree is an arborvitae or fruit tree, choose one leader to
keep, and prune off the competitors.
C. Good spacing between branches
Vertical space between branches should eventually be 12 inches for fruit or
small-statured trees and 18 inches for medium- and large-stature deciduous
trees. Try to space branches equally around the tree.
D. Enough clearance between the ground and first branch
As a tree grows taller, branches remain at the same height. Branches located
low on the trunk may get in the way of sidewalk paths or lawn mowing as the
tree gets bigger. Over time, gradually remove low branches.
E. Good crown height
The crown of a deciduous tree should be at least 60 percent of the total tree
height.

Do not remove more than 25 percent of the tree’s live branches (and

!
therefore leaves) at any one time.

B
A Well-attached
branches have a C
branch bark ridge.
E
A

*Gilman, E. 2002. An illustrated guide to pruning, 2d ed. Albany, NY: Delmar Publishers. 330 p.

22 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Maintenance Instructions - Pruning

Topping*: (Also called stubbing, heading, tipping, hat-racking, dehorning,

or roundover)

! Topping is not pruning.

Topping is the indiscriminate removal
of branch ends. Topping injures and
ultimately results in early failure or
death of a tree.

TIP: If the end of the branch must

be removed, cut it back to a side
branch that is at least one-third
(preferably one-half) the diameter
of the branch being cut.
Topped tree
Myth: Topping will make the tree
easier to maintain.
Truth: Topped trees can regain their
original height quickly, often in 2
years. A topped tree will require
more attention than a properly
pruned tree because of the
fast growing, loosely attached
shoots that form.

Myth: Topping invigorates a tree.

Truth: Topping immediately injures a
tree and starts it on a downward
spiral. Topping wounds expose
the tree to decay and invasion Topped tree with regrowth
from insects and disease. While
a tree may survive topping, its
life span will be significantly
reduced.

Myth: Topped trees will add value to

your property.
Truth: Topped trees lack natural
beauty and may actually reduce
your property values. Also,
a topped tree can become
hazardous and cause property
damage, making it a liability.

*Adapted, with permission, from the "Experts Agree: Don't Top Your Tree" campaign which was
developed by the Missouri Community Forestry Council and Forest ReLeaf of Missouri, with
financial assistance currently provided by the Missouri Department of Conservation.

Tree Owner’s Manual 23

ProtectIng trees froM constructIon daMage*
Are you planning to build or remodel a home? Are you going to expand or pave
your driveway? Are your city's streets, curbs, sidewalks, and buried utilities about
to be widened, modernized, or replaced? Before construction begins, consider
the impact on trees.

Careful tree protection will help you avoid the expense and heartache of later
repairing or removing trees that were located too close to construction activities
(see “How Close is Too Close?” below). Depending on the type of construction
and proximity to trees, you may be able to protect the trees yourself, or it may
be best to consult with an arborist to design, implement, and enforce a tree
protection plan.

! Start planning early. To minimize costs and increase the likelihood of successful
tree preservation, start tree protection planning as soon as possible.

How Close Is Too Close?

Defining The Protected Root Zone (PRZ)

The tree's Protected Root Zone (PRZ) can be

identified as follows:

1. Measure the diameter (width) of the

trunk at chest height, to the nearest inch.
To do this, either wrap a tape measure
around the trunk and divide that number
by 3 or hold a yard stick up to the trunk
and approximate the distance.
PRZ
2. Multiply that number by 1.5 for mature
or stressed trees or by 1.0 for young,
healthy trees. Express the result in feet.

3. Measure that distance from the trunk of PRZ radius (ft) =

the tree. The area within this radius is 1.0 or 1.5 x trunk diameter (in)
the Protected Root Zone (PRZ).

*Adapted, with permission, from: Johnson, G. 1999. Protecting trees from construction damage: a
homeowner’s guide. St. Paul, MN: University of Minnesota Extension. 21 p.

24 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Protecting Trees from Construction Damage

The activities listed below all negatively impact tree

roots. To protect your trees, define the Protected
Root Zone (PRZ), and keep these activities away
from this area, at a minimum.
Storing Materials and Moving Equipment
Soil compaction is one of the main killers of urban
trees. Stockpiling building materials, using heavy
machinery, and excessive foot traffic all compact
the soil. To minimize damage, install orange
Off
polypropylene or chain link fencing and post "Off Limits

Limits" signs around the PRZ of the trees you plan

to save. Check the fence often to be sure that it is
still intact and serving as a barrier.

Changing the Grade

Adding or removing as little as 2 inches of soil in the
PRZ can kill a tree. To minimize damage, consult Trench
an arborist about methods to protect the roots if
fill needs to be added or soil needs to be removed
within the PRZ.

Excavating
If utility or irrigation lines cannot be relocated
outside the tree's PRZ, reduce root damage by
requiring tunneling under the tree's root system
(instead of trenching through it). Specialized
equipment that blows soil away from the roots using
compressed air allows utilities to be placed with tunnel
very little root damage. Otherwise soil tunneling under
equipment can be used, reducing root damage by roots
up to 25 percent compared with trenching.

For all digging operations, insist that exposed roots

be cut cleanly to promote quick wound closure and
regeneration. Vibratory plows, chain trenchers,
stump grinders, and hand tools do a better job at
this than bulldozers and backhoes.

Avoid excavating during hot, dry weather; keep excavate with air and
the plants well watered before and after digging; snake utilities under
and cover exposed roots with soil, mulch, or damp roots
burlap as soon as possible.

Paving
To minimize damage, keep walkways at least 3 feet
from the anticipated mature trunk.

Tree Owner’s Manual 25

record of tree tyPes and locatIons
Use this space to keep a record of trees planted on your property. Map tree
locations on p. 27.

Tree Type/ Where Date Date Warranty Mature Max

ID
Species Purchased Purchased Planted Period Height Width
heritage
greens
A river 4/29/07 5/01/07 1 year 40-50’ 50’
nursery
birch

26 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Record of Tree Types and Locations

Sketch the location of your house and all trees on your property. Label each
tree with a letter (A, B, C, etc.) to match the record on the opposite page (use
a pencil to draw). Each square can represent 2, 5, or 10 feet, depending on the
size of your yard.

Sample:

Key:

Deciduous

Evergreen

Tree Owner’s Manual 27

servIce and rePaIr
How to Hire an Arborist*

You can find arborists listed in the phone directory, usually under “Tree Service.”
When selecting an arborist, look for the following qualifications:

‰ Education (degree in arboriculture, urban forestry, forestry, horticulture)

‰ Membership in Professional Organization(s)
Organizations include the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA),
Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA), American Society of Consulting
Arborists (ASCA), and your state’s arborist association. Such membership
demonstrates a willingness to stay current on techniques and information.
‰ ISA Certification or State Certification/License
Certified or State-licensed arborists are experienced professionals
who have passed an examination and meet requirements for on-going
education.
‰ Proof of Insurance
A reputable arborist carries personal and property damage insurance ($1
million per occurrence, $2 million aggregate) and worker’s compensation
insurance ($1 million). If an arborist is uninsured, homeowners could be
held responsible for damages and injuries that occur as a result of the tree
work. Request certificates, and phone the insurance agency to verify. Ask
if the entire job will be performed by employees of the tree care company
bidding the job. If not, ask for insurance certificates from all independent
contractors as well.
‰ Necessary Permits and Licenses
Some governmental agencies require contractors to apply for permits, a
license, or both, before they are able to work. Be sure contractors comply
with any local, state, provincial, or national laws.

Other Advice
• Ask for references and speak to former clients.
• Get more than one estimate.
• Do not automatically accept the lowest bid.
• Never pay in advance.
• Be wary of door-to-door sales. These are especially common after
storms. Know that good arborists perform only accepted practices
and wear safety equipment. For example, topping a tree and using
climbing spikes for pruning are unacceptable. Safety equipment
includes hard hats and ear protection.
• Get it in writing. When will the work be started and completed? Who
will be responsible for clean-up? What is the hourly rate for additional
work?

*Adapted, with permission, from: International Society of Arboriculture. 2004. Why hire an arborist?
Champaign, IL. 4p.

28 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Service and Repair

Record of Service

Record work completed on your trees. Use the tree letter from the record on
page 27.

Tree Date: Type of Maintenance Work Date of Next

ID Completed: Performed By: Service:

Tree Owner’s Manual 29

troubleshootIng

If you see: Potential cause: You should:

TRUNK
A flat-sided trunk at the base of Encircling root restriciting the Excavate to check for
the tree flow of water and nutrients encircling root (see p. 15)
between the roots and rest of
the tree
Bark damage near the bottom of Rodent or string trimmer Apply mulch/trunk guard
the tree to protect from future
damage (see p. 14, 16)
An elm tree with liquid oozing Slime flux or wetwood Not worry about health
from the trunk
BRANCHES
An elm tree with bright yellow Dutch elm disease Immediately call the
leaves on one or two branches University* or an arborist
Webs in the branches or webs Fall webworm or Eastern tent Not worry about health
covering the tips of branches caterpillar
Many branch tips snipped off and Squirrel damage Not worry about health
laying on the ground
Black clumps on branches of a Black knot Call for advice*
cherry tree
Very little growth Many Call for advice*
Hole in trunk or branches Many Call for advice*
LEAVES
Leaves sticky and covered with a Piercing, sucking insect and Not worry. Hose down the
black velvety coating (like soot) sooty mold leaves to get rid of sap.
Leaves wilted Many Call for advice*
Spots on leaves Many Call for advice*
Small leaves Many Call for advice*
Sparse leaves Many Call for advice*
Yellow or brown leaves Many Call for advice*
Holes in leaves Insect feeding Not worry about health
Bumps on leaves Many Not worry about health

*Call an arborist or your University plant diagnostic service (next page).

30 www.treeownersmanual.info
 other sources of helP

Arborists can provide good information about the health of your tree, and many
communities have city foresters that may be of assistance. In addition, every land
grant university has a service for answering tree health questions (see phone
numbers listed below). For Web links, visit www.nepdn.org if in the Northeastern
United States or www.ncpdn.org if in the North-Central United States.

Connecticut (University of) Missouri (University of)

(877) 486-6271
(573) 882-3019

Delaware (University of) New Hampshire (University of)

(302) 831-1390
(603) 862-3200

Illinois (University of) New Jersey (Rutgers University)

(217) 333-0519
(732) 932-9140

Indiana (Purdue University) New York (Cornell University)

(765) 494-7071
(607) 255-7850

Iowa (Iowa State University) Ohio (Ohio State University)

(515) 294-0581
(614) 292-5006

Maine (University of) Pennsylvania (Penn State University)

(800) 287-0279
(814) 865-2204

Maryland (University of) Rhode Island (University of)

(800) 342-2507
(401) 874-2900

Massachusetts (University of) Vermont (University of)

(413) 545-3208
(802) 656-0493

Michigan (Michigan State University) West Virginia (University of)

(517) 355-4536
(304) 293-6023

Minnesota (University of) Wisconsin (University of)

(612) 624-3020 or (612) 625-1275
(608) 262-2863

Tree Owner’s Manual 31

In the event of an eMergency
Large branch or tree on the ground
If it is near a downed utility line, do not go near the tree! Call the utility company.
If it is in the street, contact the city. If it is in your yard, call an arborist to have it
removed.

Tree or branches on utility line

Stay away from the tree! Call your utility company.

Branches broken, still hanging in the crown

Call an arborist (p. 28) to have the “hangers” removed, and make clean cuts at a
lateral branch or bud (p. 2, 19).

Ice coating and weighting the branches

Stay in a protected area, out from underneath the branches. Some limbs may
break. Once the ice is gone, check for safety (p. 17), and call an arborist if
necessary. Many branches return to their original state after severe bending.

Tree hit by vehicle

If possible, get the license plate number, name, and insurance information of
the driver. Document the tree’s injuries with photographs. Contact an arborist to
evaluate the damage (p. 28).

Wounded trunk
Use a scissors or hand pruner (p. 19) to cut off any loose bark. Monitor health (p.
17). Do not apply “wound paint.”

Chemical spill around tree

Call an arborist (p. 28), asking for someone with experience in soil contamination.

Root severed
Photograph and call an arborist to assess safety and make treatments as
necessary.

Flooding
Monitor the trunk to see if it begins to lean in one direction. Check the ground
area around the roots to see if the soil or grass has lifted. If so, contact an
arborist right away for a safety assessment. Monitor the tree’s health over time
(p. 17). It may take a year or more for symptoms to appear.

Lightning or storm damage

Call an arborist to assess safety and make necessary treatments.

Trunk nicked by lawn care equipment (weed trimmer or lawn

mower)
Stop doing that! Create a mulch ring around the tree to eliminate grass (p. 16), or
use a trunk protector (p. 14).

32 www.treeownersmanual.info
reMoval and dIsPosal
Whole Tree

Electricity flows through branches.

If the tree or branches are within 10 feet of utility lines, contact your local utility
company for information on assistance in removal.

To remove a large tree, hire an arborist. If you are interested in having the tree
milled into lumber, visit www.harvestingurbantimber.com to find someone with
a portable mill in your area. You may also try contacting local woodworkers and
technical schools to see if they would like the wood.

Disposing of debris:
Option 1: The arborist can remove the wood for you.
Option 2: If you or someone you know could use the tree for firewood, ask the
arborist to cut and leave the wood for you in moveable chunks. If you do not
know anyone who needs firewood, consider advertising it on community bulletin
boards (e.g., at local grocery stores).

! Insects and diseases are hitch hikers.

Many insects and diseases can be spread by moving firewood. To be safe, do not
transport firewood to another town.

Trimmings

Check with your city or town for compost sites that accept tree branches and
leaves.

Leaves

If you live in the city, keep leaves out of the street to avoid clogging storm sewers
and polluting water (nutrients from leaves get leached into the storm drains,
which typically lead directly to lakes and rivers). Leaves can be used as mulch
around your trees and in your garden beds or taken to your city’s compost site.
Check with your city to find out if they will collect leaves left on the curb in the
autumn.

Tree Owner’s Manual 33

buyIng a neW tree
Decide on the type of tree

TIP: Visit http://orb.at.ufl .edu/

TREES/ to fi nd trees that will fi t Fill out the following worksheet to
your site. help choose a tree for your site.

Check for aboveground and

belowground conflicts (p. 4-5). Then Cold Hardiness Zone (write in)
examine these important factors:

Location
If within 25 feet of overhead utility
wires, choose a tree that will not get Soil Drainage (circle one):
taller than 30 feet.

Cold Hardiness
ÕÕÕ ÕÕ Õ
Very fast Medium Very slow
Find your cold hardiness zone by
contacting the University Extension
Service, garden center, or at:
www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone. Select
a tree with a number the same or less Soil pH (circle one):
than your zone.
5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 8.0 8.5

Soil Drainage
Check how quickly water soaks into Acidic Alkaline
the ground by digging a hole 18
inches deep and filling it with water.
Let it drain completely. Refill it with
water, and time how long it takes for Sun Exposure (circle one):
the water to drain.
Less than 2 hours = Very Fast
Mostly Morning or Mostly
18 hours or more = Very Slow sunny afternoon sun shady

Soil pH
Use a pH meter (for sale at garden
centers) or get a soil test (contact
University Extension Services).
Desired tree features (check all):
‰ Spring flowers ‰ Provide
Sun Exposure
‰ Summer flowers shade
Is the area mostly sunny, mostly ‰ Autumn leaf color ‰ Short
shady, or partly sunny? ‰ Attract birds ‰ Medium
‰ No messy fruit ‰ Tall

34 www.treeownersmanual.info
 Buying a New Tree

Select a high quality tree at the nursery

Crown height should One central leader is ideal.

be at least 60 percent If not present, make sure
of the total tree height that it can easily be pruned
for deciduous trees, 75 to one leader.
percent for evergreens.

The bark should

be free of scrapes
or cracks (remove
trunk wrap to check
underneath).

There should not be

more than 4 inches of The trunk should be centered
soil over the roots. Use in the soil and should not
a metal kabob skewer move independently of the
or other heavy wire to root ball.
push through the soil to
find the depth to the first
roots (roots that are at
least as big around as a
pencil).

addItIonal sources of InforMatIon

Tree Owner’s Manual Web site www.treeownersmanual.info
Your State Forestry Agency www.stateforesters.org/SFlist.html
International Society of Arboriculture www.treesaregood.org
TreeLink www.treelink.org
American Forests www.americanforests.org
National Arbor Day Foundation www.arborday.org
Tree Care Industry Association www.treecareindustry.org
Forest Service www.na.fs.fed.us/urban

Tree Owner’s Manual 35

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and
activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, age, disability, and where applicable, sex,
marital status, familial status, parental status, religion, sexual orientation, genetic information,
political beliefs, reprisal, or because all or part of an individual’s income is derived from any
public assistance program. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Persons with
disabilities who require alternative means for communication of program information (Braille,
large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact USDA’s TARGET Center at (202) 720-2600 (voice
and TDD). To file a complaint of discrimination, write to USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights,
1400 Independence Avenue, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20250-9410, or call (800) 795-3272
(voice) or (202) 720-6382 (TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.
 transPortIng your tree
Moving your tree is easiest if the branches are tied.

Do not lift by the trunk if the roots are packaged with soil in a container or burlap.
Instead, lift the root ball (see the sidebar on How to Move Your Tree, p. 6).

If your tree has leaves and will be sticking out the back of a vehicle, the crown
should be wrapped with a sheet, tarp, or burlap.

! Wrap branches with a sheet or tarp!

Tree fits in bed Tree hangs out back of vehicle

storIng your tree untIl PlantIng

Keep the soil around the roots moist to the touch. Store in a shady spot.

For bare root trees, pack wet newspapers, sawdust, or mulch around the roots,
and wrap them in a big plastic bag. Plant the tree as soon as possible (within 2
days). The biggest risk to bare root trees is the roots drying out.

For balled-and-burlapped or containerized trees, if you cannot plant the tree

within 24 hours, water the roots well and either cover the entire root ball with
mulch or wrap the root ball in plastic or a tarp. Keep the soil moist to the touch.

! Before you leave the Nursery or Garden Center, write down:

 Where tree was purchased
 Date of purchase
 Warranty period (years)
 Type of tree (species)
 Mature height and width