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Build a Remote Control Deadbolt
by stuffman on September 27, 2007
Table of Contents
intro: Build a Remote Control Deadbolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
step 1: Shopping List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
step 2: Assess your situation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
step 3: Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
step 4: Mount the Solenoids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
step 5: Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
step 6: Connect the X10 Module . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
step 7: Connect the Springs! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
intro: Build a Remote Control Deadbolt
This instructable will show you how to build a remote-controlled door lock out of any number of 110V solenoids, solid steel dowel, some various odds and ends and an
X10 remote appliance control. I built this for my garage door for less than $30.00, but your results may vary as I was able to score a couple of solenoids free from work.
Video
Image Notes
1. 110V Solenoid
2. Steel Dowel
3. Galvanized Steel Reinforcement
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
step 1: Shopping List
Here is what you'll need to build your own remote control deadbolt:
Solenoid
I used two 110V solenoids out of an icemaker, but you may want to build your lock using DC solenoids. Some of them are very strong, and your options for powering the
lock in the event of a power outage are greater. Just something to think about. IMPORTANT! -- Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid, some solenoids are only
meant to be energized momentarily, which will cause a problem if you leave them energized and walk away. Read up on the various types of solenoids here.
X10 Controller
I got my X10 controller (Keychain Remote type) on eBay for about $15.00 shipped. This is a simple kit that includes the receiver/appliance module and one remote.
Search for "X10 Keychain Kit" or "RC6500" on eBay to find the one I bought.
Hardware
In addition to the above, you'll need 2 return springs per solenoid used, 1/2" steel dowel rod (about $6.00 for 3'), an extension cable long enough to reach your outlet with
enough to spare for some additional wiring, and possibly some bits of steel for reinforcement. Depending on what kind of connections your solenoids have, you'll probably
want to get some crimp-on connectors. Solder and shrink tubing work better, but are harder to get apart if you should need to.
Optionally, you can buy a couple of magnets to mount inside the recessed mounting hole. This will help the bolt to stay extended, and make a great noise as the bolt
closes.
Another improvement on my design would be to use a small hobby box as an enclosure for each solenoid. This would look a lot cleaner and keep the electrical contacts
under wraps.
step 2: Assess your situation
Figure out the best way to mount the lock on your door, it may end up looking drastically different from mine, as I have a funky 1/2 garage that barely fits my motorcycle.
I'll use my end result as the example from here out, but use this guide as a loose how-to while building yours. I see great potential for a standard roll-up garage door with
the solenoid mounted to the door frame, and the bolt going through the track and into the door itself.
For my door, I had to add a vertical support for the bolt to pass through. I used the left-over wood to make the horizontal mounting surface that the solenoids attach to. I
reinforced the vertical pass-through with some framing hardware I found at Home Depot. The strike plates (the metal plates mounted to the door frame) are scrap steel I
had laying around. Holes were drilled through the strike plates, steel reinforcements, and wood to accommodate the steel dowel.
IMPORTANT! --Make sure that you line up the holes well before drilling, and check your work after every step to make sure everything still lines up.
Image Notes
1. Everything seems to line up okay...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
step 3: Assembly
You'll need to drill a hole through the steel dowel big enough to fit the pivot pin. This is one of those steps that may be completely different for you, but the way my
solenoids are built, I had to drill it as close to the end of the rod as possible. Once the hole is drilled, situate the dowel where it needs to be and insert the pivot pin.
Refer to the picture to see how I attached the return springs to the solenoid. You need to separate the legs of the retainer clip and thread the spring end through before
inserting into the pivot pin, bending and clipping the ends off. The other end of the spring will be secured to the mounting surface, but wait until the very end to attach the
other end. You may need to make adjustments, and the springs will get in your way.
With the pivot pin, dowel, spring and solenoid all attached now, you'll start to get a better idea how best to mount this up. Take your measurements and figure out the
distance of throw on your solenoid. With this information you should now have an idea of how far away to mount the solenoid, and how long you need the steel dowel to
be. Now would be a good time to measure, and cut your dowel. If you're planning to use more than one solenoid, you'll need to repeat the above process over again.
step 4: Mount the Solenoids
Now that everything is fitted, you should be able to mount the solenoids to your surface. Test the action and make sure that there isn't too much resistance on the dowel
to easily move it. At this point your springs should still be hanging freely. Extend the springs to test the return action on the dowel. If the springs have too much tension on
them, they will bend and lose their 'springyness', so make sure they're not working too hard.
<digression> An idea that I wanted to try but ended up not using was to mount small magnets inside the holes that the dowel will slide into. The springs would barely have
to work at all before the magnets took over. In the end though, I used some dowel from work which was non-ferrous and wouldn't be attracted by the magnet so I
scrapped that step. </digression>
Image Notes
1. The mechanism is mounted and my measurements are good!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
step 5: Wiring
DISCLAIMER! -- I am not an electrician. I may be breaking some golden rule of electricity here, but this works for me. If anyone out there who is more qualified than me
spots anything wrong with my wiring advice, please post a comment and I'll change the instructions (As soon as I change the wiring on my lock).
I used a very long PC Power cord for my lock. Any extension cord long enough to get you to your wall outlet should work great. It may be a good idea to route the cord,
maybe even secure it along its route before beginning to wire the solenoids. My wiring is depicted (poorly) below. I went with a grounded 3-prong power cord, but haven't
yet connected the ground to anything. Once everything is wired, plug the end into a spare power strip (turned off) and turn the strip on to test your wiring.
The image below looks like the white (gray) and black wires cross. They do not in real life. I apologize for the crappy MS-Paint picture, but follow the colors and not the
wire paths and you should be good.
step 6: Connect the X10 Module
Now that the wiring is done, make sure that there are no exposed high-voltage connectors. If everything looks good, plug your contraption into your X10 module and test
it a few times. A very satisfying 'chunk' sound should result when you hit the button on the remote. Once everything looks good, move on to the final step.
step 7: Connect the Springs!
If everything else is in place, it's time to connect the springs. By now, you probably know the correct distance to put them away from the solenoid so go for it. I used
common drywall screws to secure the springs to the wood.
Since this is controlled by X10, you could easily integrate this into a home automation setup, and unlock your door using a remote, computer, or via a Windows Media or
LinuxMCE home theater PC on your television!
Hopefully you're still with me, and this instructable works well for you. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave me a comment, and digg it if you dugg it!
Check out my other instructables!
Stuff
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 66 comments
stuffman says: Sep 21, 2008. 7:55 PM REPLY
probably not. For one thing, it moves the wrong direction, though you can get solenoids which act as rams when voltage is applied. The one I've chosen
however retracts and therefore would be unsuitable. Good luck,
Shawn
Coffee bean says: Sep 19, 2008. 4:31 PM REPLY
do u think this moves enough to shoot a bb
killerjackalope says: Apr 11, 2008. 7:43 PM REPLY
All this worrying about backup power, have an inverter et. all inside the building with a pair of hidden jump leads to use the car battery, or if you use the
inverter for stuff in the car just have an extension cord style attachment to inside, problemo solved, no worries of the battery just discharging over time either.
Also for a backup switch system a good plan might be two contacts at the bottom of a hole in a brick of the wall, shole a potential burglar attempt to switch
after observation their finger gets zapped, assuming they find the hole as a possible switch point. Also why not take a standard garage door and use
solenoids to control that and leave the outer handle as a dummy mechanism?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
Mr. Rig It says: Mar 23, 2008. 12:51 PM REPLY
Would love to see you add this to my new group.
Hope to see you there.
Home Repair, Refurbishment, and New Projects
stuffman says: Mar 24, 2008. 8:11 AM REPLY
Added! Thanks for your interest, your group has some cool stuff.
Mr. Rig It says: Mar 24, 2008. 9:37 AM REPLY
Thank You! I hope to see more stuff from you stuffman.
I love the Remote Control Deadbolt, really cool.
CitizenX says: Feb 10, 2008. 12:25 AM REPLY
I use the extra button on my garage door remote to power on my house lights. You could use it to activate a solenoid as well. This is a picture of the model
that I am talking about with the cover taken off. The connectors to the female outlet slide off giving you a good spot to attach a solenoid (or whatever). It
would be much more secure than X10 and I only needed to order the control since I already had a remote that worked with it. You can buy it at TD Supplies.
It can be turned on or off with a keychain remote, regular car remote, or even a biometric fingerprint keypad if you felt like it.
stuffman says: Mar 24, 2008. 8:18 AM REPLY
I'm surprised I didn't see this sooner, this is a great alternative to the X10 hardware I'm using. I can't seem to find a small keychain remote for liftmaster
openers, but this sort of answers all of the folks who nag me about security with the X10. Thanks for the suggestion!
Greenehouse says: Mar 23, 2008. 2:27 PM REPLY
Neat idea, I've been trying to come up with something like that for a hidden door (covered up by a movable bookcase.) Check out "Kenbob" in the Home
section and the Group "House of Hidden Passages." I have alot of x10 stuff already from x10.com so this might work. I think I might secure the remote
behind something that I could just reach around and press. Hummmm, thanks for the ideas!
Goodhart says: Feb 16, 2008. 4:56 AM REPLY
I guess the only comment I have is that, many homes have the line coming in from the street split into 2 seperate phases, and with that, the X-10 does not
always work "across" from one phase to another, so make sure you are on the same side of the circuit breaker box with actuator and x-10 control box or it
may get frustrating trying to figure out what is wrong.
Fatvod says: Feb 7, 2008. 2:39 PM REPLY
Whoa this is cool. But for a secondary switch (Might be hard) you could make a fake light or handle on the side that turns and activates it. Or you could
create (EVEN HARDER) a sliding piece of panel on the outside. Ok im getting out of hand lol. I guess just something discreet.
stuffman says: Feb 7, 2008. 4:22 PM REPLY
Oooh, you know what would be awesome? A switch activated by a wall sconce, or by tilting a book on a bookshelf, like in the scary movies :0) You're
absolutely right, I have to figure out a backup plan, what I've thought of doing is drilling a very small hole through the wood for each bolt, then if I get
locked out I can use two paper clips to push the spring loaded rods back and open the door. I don't like the idea of anyone with two paper clips being
able to get into the garage, but I think that it would be effective.
This whole design relies on a potential thief not having much of an imagination, or putting enough between them and my stuff for him to choose another
target. That said, I guess it would still be nice to get to my stuff in the event of a power failure. Now that I think about it, my garage is probably not a good
place for my flashlights, either.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
Fatvod says: Feb 9, 2008. 8:14 AM REPLY
Yea but a bookshelf outside?.......lol
But yea I mean that same principle of a hidden switch activating it. I mean what damn thief would EVER think of that?!?!? And you could be coming
home with your friends and go "damnit locked out. Watch this" KACHUNK and then they will flip!
But umm yea something like that.
Bor says: Feb 9, 2008. 7:14 AM REPLY
What if you use this to make a secret compartiment? You just lift a book to open.
ve2vfd says: Oct 4, 2007. 3:31 AM REPLY
Nice!
I hope you do have some sort of backup or manual override in case of power outage or malfunction?
vaxjo says: Oct 4, 2007. 5:48 AM REPLY
It's called a crowbar.
Or you could run a regular wall switch in parallel with the X10 module and mount it somewhere discreet on the exterior of the garage.
asianwizard says: Oct 4, 2007. 1:01 PM REPLY
you could make a box that could be locked
vaxjo says: Oct 4, 2007. 1:13 PM REPLY
Ah, yes! The box that protects the auxiliary switch could itself be secured with an X-10 powered solenoid deadbolt.
And then the recursion would cause your head to explode.
MrStupid says: Feb 9, 2008. 8:06 AM REPLY
No No, the box that protects the auxiliary switch (or emergency lock bypass) would be secured in a more conventional manor(IE lock and key)
zachninme says: Oct 4, 2007. 3:41 PM REPLY
What about a hidden *female* 3-pronged power outlet, hidden on the outside.
To get in, use an adaptor & an UPS.
stuffman says: Oct 4, 2007. 4:06 PM REPLY
The problem with that, if I understand your suggestion, is twofold. The first problem is having a male cable end providing power rather
than accepting it. Those exposed bits could give you a pretty good shock. Second, and I might be way off here, but in order to do that
you'd have the x10 controller receiving power from the end that plugs into the wall AND from the switched end while the power from the
UPS was connected. That could do irreparable damage to the x10 controller, or worse. I'm sure there's a workable solution though, and I
appreciate the suggestions. My girlfriend is going to be mighty upset if we get permanently locked out of the garage because that x10
controller fails :0)
zachninme says: Oct 4, 2007. 4:58 PM REPLY
The UPS would be something somewhere else, and only used in power outages.
And if the power is out, and you plug the adaptor into the wall first, then there's no risk. Order is everything.
I'd also install a switch, mounted by this power box, to disconnect. That would also solve the first problem.
stuffman says: Oct 4, 2007. 5:02 PM REPLY
Very nice, I take it back. I now have a reason to buy a replacement battery for the dead UPS that's been sitting in my office for 2
years! Thanks.
Nirjuana says: Nov 27, 2007. 12:02 PM REPLY
What if you would use a 12 volt pull type solenoid that opens the door when energized and then connect a backup battery to
the solenoid and then wire it thought a key switch which you can put somewhere outside (in some hidden place?), and then if
there's a power failure, you just use the key and the backup battery energizes the solenoid and opens the door
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
asianwizard says: Oct 4, 2007. 2:29 PM REPLY
i was going for pad lock but that sounds fun =]
stuffman says: Oct 4, 2007. 1:29 PM REPLY
Ha!
stuffman says: Oct 4, 2007. 6:05 AM REPLY
I'm working on the UPS angle right now. Otherwise I think I might drill a very small hole through the door jam that follows the same path as the steel
dowel. Then I can open the right-hand door and insert 2 coathangers into those holes, pushing the bolts back to their retracted position. I think it's
strange enough that no one would think to try it if they were breaking in. The switch is a really good idea though.
Weissensteinburg says: Oct 4, 2007. 12:00 PM REPLY
You could bury the wires for the switch, and partially bury the switch..then hide it under a plant or something. That'd be funny.
James (pseudo-geek) says: Feb 7, 2008. 9:23 PM REPLY
Here is a link to the website to buy the controller.
stuffman says: Feb 7, 2008. 4:30 PM REPLY
I guess I'll post an update since this seems to be a fairly popular instructable.
My garage was broken into a couple of months ago. Well, I should say that my neighbor's side of the garage was broken into a couple of months ago.
Someone popped the lock with some bolt cutters and rummaged around in her side, but my 1/2 of the garage was undisturbed. So, that was pretty cool...
I can now open this lock from my Blackberry, using the X10 firecracker, an open-source X10 app called Bottlerocket, and a SSH client for the Blackberry
called MidpSSH. If anyone wants more information on how to do this, I'll post it.
That is all.
jwater7 says: Oct 12, 2007. 5:13 PM REPLY
how much electricity is used while the door is unlocked?
stuffman says: Oct 13, 2007. 8:54 AM REPLY
I'm not sure, but 2 relays aren't enough to overload the X10 controller. I think it's somewhere between an alarm clock and a dishwasher :0)
Actually, I turn power off when the door is open and I'm going to be working in the garage for a while. I'll leave it on if I'm only grabbing something from
inside the garage.
vhotho says: Oct 5, 2007. 6:08 AM REPLY
Is there a Manual override for power failures?
stuffman says: Oct 5, 2007. 8:00 AM REPLY
Nope, not yet. Flying by the seat of my pants for the time being, but that will come in phase two.
vhotho says: Oct 5, 2007. 8:02 AM REPLY
Well, very cool nonetheless. Maybe a pass-thru key lock like the old garage doors. That would work for both bolts.
thanks!
Nirjuana says: Oct 5, 2007. 3:41 PM REPLY
What if you would add a very large capacitor to the circuit so if there's a power failure it can use the capacitor as an emergency power supply?
lostless says: Oct 11, 2007. 9:46 AM REPLY
Unfortunately a capacitor would only work for a DC supply. AC power cannot be stored in a capacitor.
Personally I think a DC supply with battery/solar power back-up would be ideal for this setup. You would need a very large cap to provide the
nessecary power.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
vhotho says: Oct 8, 2007. 8:20 AM REPLY
Good thinking, But Caps usually drain after a while. Solar panel into a deep cycle marine battery? Of course I am selfishly thinking about my
application, which is a detached workshop/studio.
btop says: Oct 10, 2007. 8:59 AM REPLY
If you had a capacitor attached to a 3 pole switch, with the power supply one one side, the solenoids in the middle and the cap on the
other side, then if the was a power faliure, switch the switch from power in, to the cap and then you open the door and swich it back when
the power is back on.
vhotho says: Oct 10, 2007. 9:01 AM REPLY
True, but this assumes I'm not locked OUT. Need access to wiring from outside to this.
mossDboss says: Oct 11, 2007. 9:03 PM REPLY
I have thought of doing this for my apartment, for a power backup I considered a Motorcycle battery.
Althought, electronic locks can be purchased at Home Depot.
But this is much more fun.
kaaaaabooooom says: Oct 11, 2007. 4:16 AM REPLY
what solenoids did you use?
spasmic says: Oct 11, 2007. 3:53 AM REPLY
thanks for this stuffman...btw, has anyone tried doing the same concept using cellphone as the remote?
srteach says: Oct 6, 2007. 4:22 PM REPLY
I would think that salvaged car door remote solenoids would work nicely. 12 volts would allow battery / solar power for remote locations and lower fire risk,
key fob would add quite a bit of security, and the system comes as a whole, very little modification needed. Good job, though.
btop says: Oct 10, 2007. 9:02 AM REPLY
you could use a picaxe I-Button kit to open the door if you used 12 volt solenoids. That would add extra security as no two I-Buttons are the same. There
is still the problem of power failure though.
tool_SLinga says: Oct 9, 2007. 4:03 PM REPLY
Why not just run a couple inconspicuous nails thru the door and connect them to a low volt solenoid. Nothin but a key across the two points to activate your
lock that way. Keep it simple.
jcastle says: Oct 6, 2007. 1:57 PM REPLY
I guess this idea would also rely on obscurity but I think it might be a little more obscure than an X10. Mount a reed switch at a random point behind the door
that only you know about, use it in some sort of relay circuit to activate your AC solenoids. Then you could just have a keyfob that is magnetized to activate
the reed switch.
I guess you'd want to be careful with your keyfob and your wallet (credit cards)
bumsugger says: Oct 4, 2007. 12:59 PM REPLY
Hi there,I suppose I'm whats' known as an "Eletro-Geek" so I'll be pedantic (since you asked) and declare that in the interests of clarity,not to mention
discipline,the wire carrying the voltage to your solenoids ie: your LIVE, should be either RED or BROWN,and your "return," or neutral (negative) should be
BLACK
or BLUE,apart from that a very nice Instructable.
Coati says: Oct 4, 2007. 6:50 PM REPLY
There really is no negative in AC electricity,and in the United States according to our National Electric Code the neutral or grounded conductor should be
white for a 120 volt circuit or grey for 277 volts.Sorry one of the few things I know anything about and I could not keep my mouth shut.
bumsugger says: Oct 5, 2007. 6:50 AM REPLY
Thats' NOT the way we see things over here however,notwithstanding that things of this nature(ie: on the World Wide Web) SHOULD be made as
lucid as possible ie: by using blatantly obvious colours such as those that are so patently obvious,that even the proverbial "blind man" can discern
one from the other,(despite the fact that polarity plays no part in such a circuit as this) I think that we have the drop on the US.on this one.
view all 66 comments
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Remote-Control-Deadbolt/
