(Matt Wiggins) Weights Dragging Manual
(Matt Wiggins) Weights Dragging Manual
DRAGGING MANUAL
Howdy!!
Well, here we are again! For those of you who have bought any of my
my products and I hope that this book will meet or exceed your
expectations. For those of you who haven’t yet bought any of my other
Anyway, this book, as its title implies, is all about Dragging. Dragging,
although not necessarily very popular, is one of the most overall beneficial
Well, enough small talk. You’re not here to “chit-chat,” and neither am
I – let’s do it.
Wiggy
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Wiggy’s Weight Dragging Manual
Why Drag?
The first thing many of you might be thinking is “Why should I Drag?”
The answer is simple – because it works. What does it work? Well, that’s a
and increases work capacity. Should I go on? I’ll cover more on all that
a pretty simple concept if you think about it. You have a weight, a rope or
cord, and yourself. That’s about all you need. Now, you can get as
complicated and sophisticated as you want with this equipment. I’m sure if
you search the internet, you’ll find some website that will do its darndest to
convince you that you need this or that. But, you really don’t. Now, I’m sure
that all this stuff is good and has its benefits, but that is up for you to
decide. After all, it’s your money you’re spending. And if you want to spend
Anyhoo, here is a basic list of what you need and different options on
what you can use. Remember, unless you’re a “pretty boy,” a weight to drag
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Weight to Drag
I suppose you figured this, huh? Well, this can be one of various
--Sandbag – If you have my first Singles & Doubles book, then there’s a good
chance that you’ve got a perfectly good Sandbag. Just as I showed in the
--Weight Sled – I’m sure you’ve probably seen these – a steel plate with a lip
on one side. There’s a rod for stacking plates on in the center and an eye-
bolt for attaching a rope/cord to on one end. If this is what you want to
use, there are a few things you could do. First, you could buy one. There are
various sites around the internet in which you could get one from, and there
may even be a fitness, gym, or exercise supply warehouse in your area you
Your other option is to build your own or have one built. There’s not
that much to a sled, so building your own (should you have access to some
fairly basic metal fabrication equipment) shouldn’t be too tough. If you
don’t have access to such equipment, you could also try building one out of
wood. It probably won’t hold up quite as well as steel (especially if you load
and see how much he’d charge to build you one. This will be more expensive
than building your own, but probably still cheaper than buying one (especially
--Weights – Here’s the most basic alternative. Do you have weights sitting
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--Wagon – Believe it or not, it’s not as crazy as it sounds. Take a metal kid’s
wagon, unbolt the wheels and axles, and either tie your rope/cord to the
handle or drill a couple holes in the side to run your rope through and tie.
Throw whatever you like in the wagon as weight (weight plates, dumbbells,
sand, rocks, engine parts, your dog, neighborhood kids, whatever) and start
Dragging.
--Book bag/Duffel Bag – Take a sturdy canvas or leather bag and fill it with
your savior if you’re in college (and it will give you a way to “get back” – if
just mentally – at all the subjects that keep you up all hours studying!). I’ll
--Old Tires – Either tie your rope/cord to a tire (or multiple tires?) or drill
an eye-hook screw into the side, but a piece of wood to put inside the tire
(and act as a “floor”). Fill with weight (a la the wagon above) and you’re
ready.
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--Bucket – Here’s a tip from my good friend Coach Russell Baillie from the
Want to ogle the girls in bikinis . . . er, ah, I mean – want to go looking for
Get to the beach, and attach your rope/cord to the bucket’s handle.
Go to the surf, and fill your bucket with water. Standing in (approximately)
ankle deep water, start dragging the bucket on its side. Let the waves
fill/empty the bucket and take it along as they (the waves) come in and go
out.
--Wheelbarrow - Do you have an old steel wheelbarrow that has seen better
days? Well, then turn it into your own sled! Simply take off the wheel and
undercarriage (you should be able to unbolt them, but they may need to be
cut off with a saw or cutting torch). Either drill a hole (or two) in the front
of the barrow to run your rope/cord through (and knot), or bolt a loop (like
that used in a padlock hasp) to your barrow. Tie your rope to the loop, and
you’re done.
Rope or Cord
rope or cord that will be strong enough to pull your weight without snapping.
I use nylon rope that I got at the local hardware store. What thickness you
dragging, the thicker the rope you’ll need. The package you get the rope in
will probably state the rope’s poundage test rating. If buying your rope in
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“bulk,” then ask somebody who works at the store you’re going to. Either
way, remember that you’ll always be better off with a thicker rope.
At various times, I’ve seen people use elastic bands as a cord for their
would advise against this. The reason why is that the band(s) will just help
you pull the weight. Now you may be thinking, “But stretching the band will
provide more resistance, won’t it?” Not really. You’ll encounter an amount of
resistance until your weight begins to move, but after the weight starts
moving, the band will actually being to help you by pulling the weight toward
you. When this happens, it is the band that is bearing a portion of the work.
You don’t want to do this because if you get used to pulling with a band, you
will eventually become used to the extra help the band provides. When you
(for whatever reason) end up going back to using a rope (or something else
otherwise.
“Nice to Haves”
These are things that aren’t necessary, but will help you take your
dragging to new levels and let you be more versatile in how you drag.
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Handles
When I say “Handles,” think of the kind of think of the sort of handle
you’d seen in a cable-crossover apparatus in a gym. You can go out and buy
some Handles like these if you like, or you can easily make some.
To make your own, go to your local hardware store and get some PVC
pipe that is anywhere from one to three inches in diameter (the greater the
diameter, the more your grip will be taxed). You’ll need two five inch
sections. For each one, take approx. a foot of rope and run it through each
piece of PVC pipe. Tie the ends of the rope to each other, and voila, you’ve
got handles.
Harness
“bag” on your back; you’d have a hook or ring attached to your shoulder
straps. A rope or cord could be attached to this hook or ring that would
expensive. Also, like a Weight Sled, if you’d like to save your money, you can
To build your own, you could simply just get an old backpack and tie a
rope (attached to your weight) directly to it. Slip it on and start Dragging.
Or, you could make one just out of rope. Take about ten feet of rope and tie
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the ends together, forming a giant loop. “Fold” the circle in half, creating
two smaller “loops.” Attach a ring or S-hook in the center so that you’ve got
something to attach to your rope or cord which pulls your weight. Slip an
arm in each small loop (like a backpack) and there you go. However, if you do
this, I’d get some foam or towels to wrap around the rope. This way, it won’t
Hooks
your Dragging setup easier and quicker to change, not to mention safer. You
You don’t need Hooks, per se, because you could just tie everything
together with knots. However, Hooks are inexpensive, and will make life
MUCH easier.
Belt
to a sturdy belt (a leather weight belt works perfectly) will also suffice.
Thick Rope
a thick rope. In case you’re wondering, the kind of thick rope I’m referring
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to is much like that you used to climb in your elementary or middle school
P.E. classes.
(and most likely cheapest) bet is a marine supply store or a local hardware
store. If they don’t carry it, either will most likely be able to order some
for you. You can also try exercise/gym supply warehouses (the kind that
etc.). If none of those options work out, then try doing an internet search
“But Wiggy…”
I can hear some of you now, “You know Wiggy, this all sounds well and
good, but I can’t Drag. I can’t because…” STOP!! Don’t give me that “I can’t
because…” crap – because that’s all it is, crap. Now, there are some of you
You know why I won’t let you say “I can’t because…?” Firstly, it’s an
could – can came up with solutions for them. So, how do you like THOSE
apples? So, if you thought you couldn’t, guess what? Now you can.
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and just can’t Drag outside? Fine, Drag inside. Problem solved (I’ll go into
“But Wiggy, I live in the city with no parks, yards, etc, close by.”
Nobody ever said you have to Drag in a park or yard. Do you have a
hallway? What about a sidewalk? Do you have an alley? How about a local
plenty wide enough (many of the ones I’ve seen on college dormitories are
great), will work. As long as you’ve got some room, won’t get run over by a
car, and won’t agitate others (at least not too much, anyway), you’ve got a
place to Drag.
Great. See the above reply about living in the city. If anything,
you’ve got more places to Drag because there are most likely courtyards,
intramural fields, gymnasiums, etc. around. Pick one and get to work.
Oh, and if you’re worried what your friends might say, don’t be. When
they question or chide you, put your Harness on them and put them to work,
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So, you Drag in your house, so what? There’s nothing wrong with this.
It’s not ideal by any means, but you still do some Dragging. Pick the room
that has the most space and Drag there (TIP – you will probably want to go
Incremental Dragging, but Constant Dragging can be done (but not nearly as
well as if you have a larger area). Just Drag from point A to point B, turn
around and go back. You’ll have to make many more trips this way, but with
Another thing – if you are Dragging inside your home, pick a Weight to
Drag that will be more “friendly” to the surroundings. For example, if you
would normally Drag with an old wagon outside, then you surely won’t want to
bring that inside (and guys, you know there’s no way your wife or girlfriend
will let you bring it in). Instead, maybe opt for some weight plates tied
together or maybe an old backpack full of heavy books (which works great
for students).
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Well, I don’t know what to tell you about that one – I get weird looks,
too (especially during my 6:00 a.m. GPP workouts). You could try talking to
them and convince them of the benefits of Dragging – maybe even get them
hooked on it. If that doesn’t work, then the next time they give you a weird
look, flash them an evil grin and laugh devilishly…then they’ll know you’re
crazy and avoid you altogether (thus not giving you any more weird looks).
Drag, then I guess I should tell you why (makes sense, doesn’t it?).
--Safety – When you think about it, Dragging is one of the safest types of
know, perfect, or master (you DO have to use good form, but Dragging is
fatigue, need to stop, or can’t pull the weight, simply drop the rope.
--Conditioning – Not sure if Dragging can actually get you breathing hard?
If you go heavy enough, you’ll have no choice but to be huffing and puffing.
Look at it this way – have you every pushed a broken down car down the
street or through a parking lot? Were you huffing and puffing when you got
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--Strength – Again, as long as you go heavy enough, you’ll have no choice but
to get stronger. Doubtful? Then try this – the next time you go to the gym,
run a length of rope through two 45 lbs. plates and Drag a little around the
gym (just don’t let the gym attendant see you!!). I think you’ll find that 90
Not sure what I mean by Work Capacity? Think about it this way – imagine
measure. All the different type of work you do throughout the day
bringing in the groceries, taking a shower, clearing the dinner table, etc.)
However, the limits of one’s Work Capacity (i.e. – how much work one
person is absolutely capable of) aren’t necessarily what you want to increase.
While having a higher “maximum” Work Capacity is good, it isn’t what will
necessarily help you the most. What is beneficial is your Work Capacity that
Let’s say that we measured two peoples’ Work Capacity (in whatever
unit of measure). Let’s say that Person A had a Maximum Work Capacity of
units; he can routinely perform 8 units worth of work everyday, and fully
recover. In other words, he can do 8 units worth of work day-in and day-
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atrophy (shrinkage), etc. Now, let’s say that Person B can routinely perform
only 6 units of work everyday, and still fully recover. Who is better off?
Person A can do more work overall, and, should he do so, will increase his
Maximum Work Capacity much quicker and to much higher levels than Person
B.
areas/body-parts) utilize the most of, if not all, the entire body, they
good Dragging program, you’ll find that your Work Capacity (both your
Maximum and what you can routinely perform and recover from) will shoot
and a diet than puts you in a calorie surplus will soon force your entire body
--Fat Loss – Much like the Hypertrophy benefits listed above, combine all
the work you’ll do on a Dragging program with a diet that puts you in a calorie
deficit, and fat will drop off your body like it’s going out of style. You’ll be
--Mental Toughness – One of the most beneficial (yet least talked about)
out, Dragging isn’t easy – it’s damn hard work. We’re not talking about some
“foo-foo” new exercise fad; we’re talking about some hard work. Have you
ever wondered why you don’t see Dragging that much? It’s because it’s
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HARD. You can’t perform – or get results with – a Dragging program without
routine rich in Dragging, and you’ll be tough as nails quicker than you think.
--GPP (General Physical Preparedness) – Much has been made in recent years
about GPP. Simply put, one’s level of GPP defines how overall physically
ready one is or isn’t for any given activity. This encompasses overall
more. Dragging, by nature of the fact that it stresses the whole body to
work as a cohesive unit at one time, greatly stresses and works all of these
are designed for your “off” (non-workout) days. The purpose of Active
Recovery sessions is to just do a small amount of work. By doing so, you keep
the body active, and still accomplish something, even though you are still in
the recovery process. These short workouts are also great for keeping away
soreness.
By just doing a small amount of Dragging (say 10-15 minutes per day),
you will fight this soreness, still get something accomplished, and won’t
Types of Dragging
their nature, some exercises will lend themselves to being one kind or the
other. For example, Presses, Curls, and Explodes are more Incremental
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a Constant fashion.
Incremental Dragging
rep, move, complete one rep, move, etc. An example would be a Front Raise.
During a Front Raise, you would start with your hands at your sides
with the rope taut. You would then raise your hands, pulling the weight
forward. You would then drop your hands back to your sides, walk forward
until the rope was taut again, and start over. The weight is drug forward in
“increments.”
Constant Dragging
is drug nonstop until your given distance (or time) has been covered. An
During a Belt Pull, you’d hook your belt to your weight, and start
moving. When you start moving, the weight starts moving. The only times
you stop is for rest periods and when your given distance (or time) is
finished.
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choose the beginning and/or ending position(s) of the movement. Get into
that position, and start walking forward. For example, if you wanted to work
the Overhead Press in a Constant fashion, you’d lead forward, put your hand
at your shoulders, and start walking forward. After a given distance (or
time), press your hands overhead (whilst still walking forward). Keeping your
movements.
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Exercise Guide
UPPER BODY:
OVERHEAD PRESS
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1. Put one foot in front of the other, slightly leaning forward. Your
be taut.
but rather at an angle – the same angle in which you are leaning).
4. Exhale
5. Once your hands are overhead, drop them back to your shoulders
6. Repeat
TIP – “Play” with your grip(s) to see what is most comfortable. You can press
with your palms facing forward, facing each other, or someplace in between.
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CHEST PRESS
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1. Stand with your body straight. (You may put one foot in front of
the other if you feel more stable that way.) Your hands should be
4. Exhale
5. Once your arms are extended, bring your hands back to your
6. Repeat
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FLYES
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1. Put your hands out to your sides with arms extended. Your palms
4. Exhale
5. Return your hands to the starting position and walk forward until
6. Repeat
TIP – Experiment with starting and ending positions. For example, you could
start with arms horizontal and end with hands in front of your eyes. Or
you could start with your hands level with your eyes and end with them level
with your upper abdomen. There are endless angles and variations.
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FRONT RAISE
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1. Stand upright with your hands at your sides, palms facing back, and
rope taut.
3. Raise your hands in front of you until your arms form an approx.
4. Exhale
5. Return your hands to the starting position and walk forward until
6. Repeat
TIP – Leaning forward may give you more stability than standing absolutely
upright.
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REAR RAISE
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1. Stand upright and facing your weight. Your arms should be in front
3. Keeping your arms relatively straight, pull your hands back so that
body.
4. Exhale
5. Return your hands back to the starting position and walk backward
6. Repeat
TIP – You can pull from various angles. When “finished,” your arms can be
time to time.
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UPRIGHT ROWS
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1. Stand upright and facing your weight. Your hand should be in front
of you, with palms facing down. The rope to your weight should be
taut.
“pulling” with your elbows rather than your hands (this will place
the emphasis on your shoulders and back rather than on your upper
together.
4. Exhale
5. Return your hands to starting position and walk backward until the
6. Repeat
TIP – You may want to put one foot back and possibly even lean slightly back
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LEANING CURLS
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1. Stand with one foot forward and facing away from your weight.
4. Exhale
5. Return your hands to the starting position and walk forward until
6. Repeat
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REVERSE CURLS
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CURLS, only with your palms facing back (instead of forward). The
3. Curl your hands so that your knuckles are touching your shoulders.
4. Exhale
5. Return your hands to the starting position and walk forward until
6. Repeat
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UPPERCUTS
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4. From there, keep your hands moving so that they end up overhead
facing you). The transition from the curl to the press should be
5. Exhale
6. Once your hands are overhead, bring them back to the starting
7. Repeat
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ROW
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1. Stand upright and facing your weight. Your hand should be in front
of you, with palms facing down or facing each other. The rope to
on “pulling” with your elbows, rather than your hands. Doing this
will focus the effort on the muscles of the back, rather than the
4. Exhale
5. Put your hands back in front of you in the starting position. Walk
6. Repeat.
TIP – You may want to put one foot back and possibly even lean slightly back
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SOCCER THROWS
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1. Stand leaning slightly forward with one foot in front of the other.
Your arms should be overhead and bent, with your elbows point up
and your hands at the base of your neck. Your palms should be
4. Exhale
5. Return your hands to the starting position and walk forward until
6. Repeat
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CORE WORK:
CRUNCH:
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1. Stand upright with your weight behind you. Your hands should be
at your shoulders.
hands – your hands should be nothing more than hooks), curl your
body forward until your elbows are (somewhat) close to your knees.
4. Exhale
5. Stand back up straight and walk forward until the rope is taut
again.
6. Repeat.
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TWISTS
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1. Stand upright with your weight to your left side. Your hands
should be together, arms out to your left side, and rope taut.
twist so that your hands end up on the right side of your body.
Your arms can remain horizontal, or you can pull them upward.
4. Exhale
6. Repeat
NOTE – This will work the right side of your “core.” To work the left side,
simply perform the above from right to left (as opposed to left to right as
above).
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DEADLIFT STYLE
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away that you have to bend forward (your body would be between
45 and 90 degrees). Stick your butt slightly back so that your legs
with the hips, rather than just pulling with your lower back. Your
hands should end at your sides. At the end of the pull, squeeze
4. Exhale
taut.
6. Repeat
TIP – You may want to put one leg slightly back for stability. If you do, be
sure to alternate every few pulls so that the both sides are worked evenly.
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LOWER BODY:
HARNESS SQUATS
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1. With your weight behind you and a harness on, squat down so that
If so, feel free to put your hands on the ground (but don’t support
3. Driving with your toes, explode upward, straightening your legs and
forward direction.
4. Exhale
5. Walk forward until the rope is taut again. Squat back down to the
staring position.
6. Repeat
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LUNGE
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1. With your weight behind you and harness on, get into lunge position
4. Exhale
5. Repeat
TIP – This is a fairly difficult exercise – you’ll have to use a much lighter
weight (especially when compared to Harness Squats) than you might think.
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OVERHEAD SQUAT
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forward.
4. Exhale
5. Step forward and squat back down into starting position with rope
taut.
6. Repeat
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BEHIND KNEES
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1. With your weight behind you, slightly bend at the knees and at the
3. Keeping your butt down, chest slightly arched, and head up, walk
forward keeping your hands behind your knees. Try to make your
TIP – This exercise is TOUGH. Start out with a very light weight, for it will
TIP – This exercise is TOUGH. When first start out, don’t do a whole lot of
dragging this way. If you do, you’ll be more sore than you can imagine. Work
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ANKLE DRAGGING
1. With your weight behind you, loop your rope around your feet so
too fast (nor use too heavy of a weight) as you could strain a
TIP – To shift the emphasis to the back of your legs (Muscles Targeted:
Butt, Hamstrings, Calves, Lower Back), turn around and walk backwards in
the same fashion.
TIP - To shift the emphasis to the hips and outer/inner thighs, turn
you lagging foot first in front of, then behind your lead foot. Just be sure
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OVERALL CONDITIONING
HARNESS PULL
1. With your weight behind you, put on your harness. Lean slightly
forward.
Keep the movement smooth and motion fluid. Keep the weight
moving forward.
4. Breathe normally.
TIP – For variation, turn around and pull backwards or even sideways (pulling
in a “carioca” fashion).
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BELT PULL
3. Walk forward. Like the HARNESS PULL, keep the motion fluid and
4. Breathe normally.
variation.
TIP – Use BELT PULLS if you have a delicate shoulder girdle or are
TIP – Be sure to put the belt low enough on your stomach that it doesn’t
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handles, harness, etc.). Drape the rope over one shoulder. Grip
4. Breathe normally.
TIP - Be sure to divide your OVER THE SHOULDER PULLS in half, so that
you’re doing half over one shoulder, and half over the other. This will even
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BEAR CRAWL
1. Put on your harness and get down on “all fours” (i.e. – your hands
and feet).
3. “Crawl” forward on your hands and feet. For better leverage, keep
your body as straight as you can. This will allow you to “dig” into
the ground much better. (It will also be much more comfortable,
as your butt will be down, and your rope won’t be pull between your
butt cheeks.)
4. Breathe normally.
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CRAWL
1. Again, put on your harness and get down on “all fours” (only this
4. Breathe normally.
TIP – This can tear your knees up, so make sure (if you’re training outside)
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SEAL WALK
1. Put on your harness and get down on your stomach. Your legs
your hands.
3. Using only your arms, “walk” forward on your hands. This will be
4. Breathe normally.
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EXPLODE
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1. Get into the squatted position with your weight behind you. Your
as well.
4. Exhale
5. Step forward and squat back down into the starting position. The
6. Repeat
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Sample Routines
distance or for time. For example, you might do OVERHEAD PRESS for
three “sets” of 200 feet. Or, you may do HARNESS PULLS for 12 minutes
Which you do (for distance or for time) will generally depend on which
exercises you are doing, and how much space you have (i.e. – where you’re
doing your Dragging workouts). For example, you could do a workout for
Because your individual circumstances will vary, I’ll let you make the
words, I’m taking for granted that you’ll be Dragging from Point A to Point B,
turning around, and Dragging back to Point A again (only to turn around again
and start over). These routines will also assume that the distance between
so.
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Arm Specialization
--Have your weight at Point A, while you position yourself at Point B. With a
thick rope attached to your weight, pull the weight in your direction until it
hands (imagine a Hammer Curl motion). Once the weight reaches Point B,
Core/Trunk Strengthening
--Starting at Point A, CRUNCH your weight to Point B. At Point B, perform
25 Situps. Then, DEADLIFT STYLE back to Point A. When you reach Point
Core/Trunk Strengthening #2
--Starting at Point A, TWIST (from left to right) to Point B. When you
reach Point B, perform 25 Flutter Kicks (each leg). Then TWIST (from
right to left) back to Point A. When you reach Point A, perform 25 Situps.
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Point A.
Dive Bombers. Then, turn around and ROW back to Point B. At Point B,
Bootstrappers.
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Conditioning
--Starting at Point A, BELT PULL to Point B. Turn around, and BELT PULL
back to Point A. Each time you turn around, pull a different direction. So,
from Point A to Point B, pull forward. Then turn sideways, pulling to your
left on the way back to Point A. Then pull backwards back to Point B. Then
turn sideways again, pulling to right back to Point A. Then pull forward again
Conditioning #2
--Starting at Point A, BEAR CRAWL to Point B. At Point B, perform 10 Jump
Squats. Then, turn around and SEAL WALK back to Point A. At Point A,
Conditioning #3
--Starting at Point A, OVERHEAD SQUAT to Point B. AT Point B., perform
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Wiggy’s Weight Dragging Manual
(with Push-Up and Jump Squat). Then, EXPLODE back to Point A. At Point
Active Recovery
--Starting at Point A, HARNESS PULL to Point B. Turn around, and
HARNESS PULL back to Point A. (NOTE – This should be very heavy nor
strenuous – it should be just enough to get you breathing a little hard, and to
Active Recovery #2
--Starting at Point A, EXPLODE to Point B. Turn around, and EXPLODE back
to Point A. (NOTE – like the other Active Recovery routine, this Dragging
shouldn’t be heavy or very strenuous. Please don’t confuse this routine with
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About Tapout – Wiggy’s Experience
my previous books), you’ll know that I had a section dealing with Tapout
In case you don’t know who or what Tapout is, Tapout is a company
that makes fightware and clothing for MMA (Mixed Martial Arts). Tapout
sponsors more fighters than you can shake a stick at, and many of the MMA
events that have taken place (especially in America) in the last 10-15 years
wouldn’t have taken place had it not been for Tapout. Hell, many of the
smaller events would never have even come into existence were it not for
Tapout.
Many people don’t like Tapout or the Tapout “crew.” These “nay-
sayers” think that the guys from Tapout are too loud, too brash, too
obnoxious, or too something. And maybe they’re right. But, if you ask me,
Tapout is too giving, too hard working, and too dedicated. Tapout busts its
ass for the sport of MMA, and they certainly give a lot more than they get.
During the fall of 2002, I was trying to write and complete my first
book. I was completely new to what I was doing, and was plodding along the
best I knew how. In an effort to lend a little bit of credibility (since nobody
affiliate my product with the Tapout name, it might lend some credibility to
this (then) unknown author, and it might help get my project off the ground.
So, I called Tapout. After a couple calls, I found myself on the phone
with Dan, and found myself explaining that I was writing a book about
Strength & Conditioning training oriented towards fighters. I did my best
Now remember, this was when I first started out. This was before I
unknown. Dan didn’t know me from Adam, and he had no proof that anything
I was telling him about my project was true. For all he knew, I could have
Dan response to my idea? “Cool. I’ll have some stuff sent out today.”
There was a box on my porch 3 days later. I’ll deal with Tapout – and only
To find out more about Tapout or to get some of the coolest stuff money
Living in Cameron, NC, Matt “Wiggy” Wiggins is a cost analyst who has
studied, researched, and performed strength training for 11+ years. Wiggy
and conditioning coach for his university’s wrestling team. Wiggy runs the
central North Carolina, and designs personalized training programs online via
seminars for those in the central North Carolina area. If you’d like more
information on Wiggy’s products or how Wiggy can set up a program for you,