H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202

Valid for all brands in H&M group

H&M QUALITY SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS FOR

SUPPLIERS - TEXTILE
Product Group Specific requirements for Textile
To be used together with H&M Quality System Requirements General

Introduction
The purpose of this document is to clarify the H&M Group requirements for Quality System at our
Suppliers. All Suppliers and H&M Quality employees who are making audits in our Suppliers are
responsible to read and work according to this document.

Here you find the Product group specific chapters for Textile which should be read and used together
with the H&M Quality System Requirements General.

A Quality system should fit the Supplier´s product type, size, setup and other conditions, and H&M also
accept if the Supplier on some points has a similar system as H&M Quality System which gives equal
result. This document does not cover the QA/ lab related parts of the quality system.

It is the Supplier’s responsibility to make sure that all production units and external parts, e.g. material
and component suppliers, wash mills, print mills etc. follows all H&M Group official documents at H&M
Group Supplier Portal (hereafter (the) Supplier Portal).

Table of Contents
Introduction .................................................................................................................................................. 1
Minimum Requirements ............................................................................................................................... 3
Summary of Minimum Requirements – Textile .............................................................................................................3
QMS Implementation on Site ....................................................................................................................... 4
5. Sample procedure.................................................................................................................................... 5
5.1. Sample report (MR) .........................................................................................................................................5
5.2. Early Risk Analysis ............................................................................................................................................5
5.3. Duplicate Counter sample (MR) ......................................................................................................................6
5.4. Guidelines for production (MR) .......................................................................................................................6
5.5. Production sample ...........................................................................................................................................7
6. Fit & Measurements ................................................................................................................................ 7
6.1. Pattern and Grading ........................................................................................................................................7
6.2. Dummies and Fitting .......................................................................................................................................8

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

6.3. How to Measure ..............................................................................................................................................8

7. Colour and Lighting .................................................................................................................................. 8
7.1. Colour Evaluation ............................................................................................................................................9
7.2. Colour Continuity Record (MR) .......................................................................................................................9
7.3. Lighting ............................................................................................................................................................9
8. Material and Components ..................................................................................................................... 10
8.1. Material .........................................................................................................................................................10
8.2. Fabric Inspection (MR)...................................................................................................................................11
8.3. Yarn Inspection (MR) .....................................................................................................................................11
8.4. Other Material Inspection (MR) ....................................................................................................................12
8.5. Fabric and Yarn Shrinkage Control for adjusting production patterns (MR) .................................................12
8.6. Trim Inspection ..............................................................................................................................................12
8.7. Trim Card .......................................................................................................................................................12
8.8. Labels .............................................................................................................................................................13
8.9. Pull Force Test of Buttons and Other Trims (MR) ..........................................................................................13
8.10. Fabric, Yarn, Trim Storage (MR).....................................................................................................................13
9. Spreading and Cutting ........................................................................................................................... 14
10.Production ............................................................................................................................................. 14
10.1. Pre-Production meeting (MR) .......................................................................................................................15
10.2. Trial Production/Pre-Production ...................................................................................................................15
10.3. Process control (MR) .....................................................................................................................................16
10.4. Stitching, Knitting and Linking .......................................................................................................................16
10.5. Needle and Sharp Object Control (MR) .........................................................................................................18
10.6. Label Control in Production ...........................................................................................................................18
10.7. Pull Force Test of Buttons and Other Trims (MR) ..........................................................................................19
10.8. Separate lines for Premium Quality Brands/ Premium Quality Products......................................................19
11.Finishing ................................................................................................................................................. 19
11.1. Trimming .......................................................................................................................................................19
11.2. Buttoning .......................................................................................................................................................19
11.3. Pressing/ boarding .........................................................................................................................................21
11.4. Final Control ..................................................................................................................................................21
12.Packing to 13. Inspections ..................................................................................................................... 21
Reference document .................................................................................................................................. 23
Quality books for inspiration ...................................................................................................................... 23

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Minimum Requirements
The Minimum Requirements are mandatory for all H&M Group suppliers/ units to fulfil before the
Supplier get on boarded.

Summary of Minimum Requirements – Textile

• Acceptable quality level
• A long-term vision/ strategy (quality policy) – written and authorized by top
management
• Transparent and accurate quality data, minimum production rejection data
• Quality function/ organisation, independent from the production team with authority
to take quality decisions
• Basic quality manual/ SOP for key quality processes

• Sample control and sample report by Sample responsible

• Duplicate counter sample available in all related lines/ departments including
comments and production instructions
• Sample room make guideline/ instruction file/ mock-ups/ SOP for production- &
quality team for each order/style
• Light box with all required lights and correct checking method
• Colour continuity control

• Fabric inspection system 4-p or similar

• Heavy/ fine knit, socks: Yarn inspection
• Material inspection system if other material
• Shrinkage control for adjusting production patterns
• Nickel test

• Proper storage – Material/ component/ finished goods/ cartons stored with good air
circulation/ controlled humidity (RH below65%), off the floor/ away from walls,
covered when needed and not stacked too high
• Fabric relaxation method with needed racks/ area and records kept

• Pre-production meeting with all related people involved and records kept
• Process control system including other related processes e.g. embroidery, linking etc.
with records kept

• Broken needle policy

• SafQ machine and test routine – if Children orders
• Needle detection and metal free zone according to Guideline for needle and sharp
objects control

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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• Mould & Insect´s prevention: Clean product/ Housekeeping - all departments: There
must be a routine to keep the product clean during production. Goods kept off the
floor during production - food & drink kept away from production line (in designated
areas only) - Regular cleaning routines in production line/ finishing/ packing/
washrooms/ kitchen/ lunchroom
• Mould & Insect´s prevention: Dry product - all departments: According to risk analysis
for the product/ region there must be a routine to keep the product dry:
Regular/daily control of temperature (below 28 degree Celsius) and moisture level
(below 65% RH) - or according to specific products requirements - where needed
during the whole manufacturing flow (production line/ specific processes/
workshops/ finishing and packing area. The routine depends on what kind of risk
there is for that product and region.
• Insect´s net in finishing area/ packing area/ metal free zone and to close/ cover doors
and windows
• Final inspections following AQL/ sampling plan acc. to brand, in all size, colours and
countries acc. to size break down/ records kept

Quality Assurance:
• Latest version of H&M Quality standards and requirements is read and understood by
concerned people.
• Concerned people have read and understood H&M Chemical Restrictions and
Implementation Toolkit
• (if chemicals are used:) The chemical storage is clean and well ventilated
• (if chemicals are used:) Storage and use of chemicals is systematic (first in, first out)
• The factory distributes H&M Chemical Restrictions to their Suppliers/ subcontractors

QMS Implementation on Site

The implementation of the quality system in all departments is a big task but the key to success.
See chapter 1 – 4 in the H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers – General.

Different trainings and activities are one part of the communication and implementation. The other part
is to define which work flows, SOPs, instructions need to be displayed or available in which
departments, preferably in local language so that all employees can understand.

Latest information about goal results, Corrective Action Plans (CAPs), top priority issues etc. should be
available where all related employees can take part of it.

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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5. Sample procedure
Samples are needed for different purposes throughout the process. From product development and
building of collections to shop display and press activities.

Samples must correspond to the H&M Group request and follow H&M Group Minimum Requirements
for Samples. Any necessary differences should be discussed with H&M´s local production office.

It is the H&M Group Suppliers’ responsibility to assess samples regarding style/design during sample
stage to make sure they are suitable for bulk production. Samples must be produced with same/similar
machinery as the coming bulk production.

The purchase order is legally binding after counter sample approval and the production can only start
after the counter sample is approved. A license counter sample (pre-production sample) is additional for
all license orders and must be approved before production can start.

More information regarding all sample types can be found in H&M Group Sample Guideline and
Requirements at the Supplier Portal.

5.1. Sample report (MR)

The H&M Group Supplier/factory sample technician must make a proper
control of the sample in all technical aspects create a sample report
when checking the sample; the report must accompany the sample to
the H&M local office. All unclear points must be clarified with H&M
Group as early as possible.

The sample report must include:

• Measurements; samples must be measured according to How to
Measure. Note down eventual deviations.
• Workmanship; comments on e. g. SPC (Stitches per cm) or SPI
(Stiches per inch), pocket placement etc.
• Fabric/yarn/trim/accessories/labels; specify if bulk is not used.
• Sample detail/digital picture on suggestion of grading/technical or
safety adjustment for a better product and smoother production.
Proper camera setting, background, light, placement of sample must
be used.

5.2. Early Risk Analysis

Risk assessment of every new product at early stage and cooperation between sample room,
merchandising, QA and production is extremely important. The production team should be involved
during development or latest at quotation stage. The analysis should include material, construction, fit/
shape and function, to make sure the workmanship is suitable for bulk production.

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Common risks based on e.g. previous experience, complexity of style or material, customer complaints
should be considered. This technical risk analysis can be a part of H&M Risk Assessment.

Proactive actions should be taken to secure a smooth production and communicated to the related
persons. The action could e.g. be to offer some workmanship options to the customer, or to define
critical operations for more frequent process control.

5.3. Duplicate Counter sample (MR)

It is the Supplier’s responsibility to make duplicates of the approved sealed counter sample. The
duplicates must be made in the same size as the counter sample. HM Group Sample Responsible
must carefully check that the duplicate samples are same as approved counter samples in all
aspects, including improvements according to latest comments. These must be displayed
throughout the factory, especially at the inspection points. The duplicates must be used as
reference by all people involved during bulk production. Measurement list, and counter sample
comments must be translated into native language, placed in
plastic pocket and attached to the duplicate.

For easy identification, all Duplicate Counter samples must be

marked with:

o Seal-, Order- and Department number

o Date

Duplicate Counter Samples must be displayed throughout the

factory, and be available in all related lines, departments and
inspection points.

5.4. Guidelines for production (MR)

The sample room must prepare step by step guidelines for production for each order/ style, so that
all operations are clear to the production line and all people involved. Critical operations should be
defined, and mock-ups/ instructions/ SOP prepared for the production- and quality team where
needed.

The H&M Sample responsible must inspect the first finished products from trial production, to
ensure that instructions have been workable and followed and that the bulk production is the same as
approved counter sample.

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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5.5. Production sample

A Production Sample must be picked by H&M Group QC or the Suppliers nominated QC from the actual
production line and therefore represent the finished product.

This should be done when the first goods are totally completed. All labels, price tags, etc. must be
attached. Retail packaging must be the same as for the actual delivery.

The Production Sample must reach and be approved by H&M Group before the goods may be delivered.
Various tests will be made. The production must correspond to the approved Counter Sample, H&M
Group order contract and official documents in all aspects.

6. Fit & Measurements

6.1. Pattern and Grading

All H&M Suppliers/factories using H&M pattern in production, must have a computer pattern making
software. H&M use Lectra pattern making software. Suppliers, who have another pattern making
software than Lectra Modaris for pattern construction, must be able to receive H&M pattern by email
and have knowledge of and be able to import into their software, with correct shapes and information
intact. To secure correct settings the Suppliers are required to update H&M if any updates in their CAD
system.

H&M group will in addition to .mdl files provide DXF files for all patterns.

• AAMA DXF, Grading is added as a separate file: RUL

• ASTM DXF, Grading is included in DXF

Pattern plotter must be calibrated regularly acc. to brand instructions.

The original patterns from the Buying Office (hereafter BO) represent the finished product. The
Suppliers should adjust the BO patterns for shrinkage, machinery etc. to make the finished production
correspond to the original pattern and measurements on M-chart.

H&M have the right to claim patterns from the Supplier based on H&M design. The Supplier must be
able to immediately provide both original BO patterns (in base and with BO grading if available)
Original BO patterns means the pattern sent from BO (in base size or graded) without adjustments for
shrinkage and production.

BO patterns are needed to be able to compare production with original shape on pattern.
Graded production patterns are also needed to check e.g. if the cutting is correct. The Supplier must
follow latest grading instructions from H&M where available.

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

6.2. Dummies and Fitting

Approved dummies with H&M standard body measurements should be used for fitting of samples
before they are sent to H&M local office. Detailed information regarding H&M Approved Dummies is
found in H&M Fit Dummies under Quality Assurance/ Fit & Measure at the Supplier Portal.

Preferably samples should be fitted on live models before sent to PO. Depending on need for the
product type this is a complement to the fitting on dummy, does not require the perfect size model and
is more of a “functional fit”. For some product groups there are more specific needs that will be
informed by H&M PO.

Samples should be fitted on live model/ dummy during pre-production meeting.

Approved dummies with CEN/HM standard body measurements in jumping sizes should be available for
sample room and production units according to the local strategy.

6.3. How to Measure

H&M Group requires the Suppliers to measure all

types of products in the exact same way as H&M.
Measurement Tapes should be calibrated
minimum every 6 months against a metal ruler.
Depending on measure tape quality every 3
months is needed.

Information regarding How to Measure

instructions can be found in H&M Group How to
Measure at the Supplier Portal.

7. Colour and Lighting

Colour is a subjective experience and is usually the first thing a customer notice about a product. In
production colour evaluation cannot be handled subjectively. Colour must be specified and defined.
All colours are equally important to check according to the same guidelines e.g. shell, lining, trims.
In order to get consistent results a colour standard must be used throughout the production chain.

Physical standard = visual evaluation in a light box, placed in a dark room, on a colour cutting. This
must be done in all required lights and according to method in H&M Supplier Colour Guide Book
(MR)

Numeric standard = instrumental evaluation by use of a spectrophotometer, on a colour cutting.

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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7.1. Colour Evaluation

Several variables can influence a colour evaluation.

Information regarding the procedure can be found in
H&M Supplier Colour Guideline at the Supplier Portal.

Specification of illuminants in the lightbox is found

in H&M Supplier Colour Guideline at the Supplier
Portal.

Premium Quality Brands require a tolerance of 1,0< DE within the same shade family. More
information can be found in H&M Supplier Colour Guideline.

7.2. Colour Continuity Record (MR)

The factory must:
• have an effective numbering system, to avoid colour mixing during the whole production
• check dye lot to dye lot, within a dye lot and within a roll/ yarn batch
• keep both a roll record and a colour continuity record (shade record)
• control colour and shades by maintaining colour continuity records

Information regarding shade record can be found under Quality Assurance/ Colour at H&M Group
Supplier Portal.
Information regarding colour can be found in H&M Supplier Colour Guideline at the Supplier Portal.

If you have any questions about this Colour Guide Book – please contact the Colour
Technician at your local H&M production office.

7.3. Lighting

Lighting requirements depends mainly on three factors:

• the work that will be performed e.g. inspection, sewing, warehouse
• working area environment e.g. natural light, colour of walls, ceiling and background
• sharpness of the operator’s eyesight

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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The H&M Group Supplier is responsible to provide

for correct lighting in the factory’s all different work
areas.

The factory is required to:

• provide suitable light for all workers
• find the correct placement of the light source
(height, direction)
• avoid shadows and glare
• ensure regular maintenance e.g. cleaning of
lamps, lamp replacement schedule
• when possible make suitable use of daylight (e.g.
clean the windows, not cover the windows with boxes, trash)
• measure the work area light with a Light meter,
and follow recommended Lux values

Recommended Lux values

Department Minimum Lux

All inspection areas 1000
Cutting/Sewing/Trimming area 750
Ironing/Finishing/Packing area 500
Warehouse for: Fabric/Trims/Finished 250
product

8. Material and Components

8.1. Material

The H&M Group Supplier is responsible to ensure the fabric/yarn quality on the finished
garment/product and that their fabric, yarn and raw material suppliers follow H&M Quality
Standards & Requirements, H&M Chemical Restrictions and other H&M documents relevant for the
product type.
Both material- and product Suppliers are responsible that information on their part of Fabric
Technical Data sheet is correct.

The material Supplier must inspect 100% of the fabric prior to delivery and the inspection report
must accompany the delivery.
The H&M Group garment Supplier must ensure that the material is carefully and systematically
inspected and tested prior to cutting.
Both inspection reports must be kept for 12 months.

GPQD 10 (23)
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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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8.2. Fabric Inspection (MR)

For visual fabric inspection of woven and jersey H&M Group recommends:
Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting
Grading Fabrics; ASTM D5430 (4-point fabric inspection)
Information regarding fabric inspection can be found in H&M Fabric Inspection Guideline at the
Supplier Portal. It is recommended to use Fabric Inspection Report.

Minimum 10% of the bulk fabric, minimum 1000m to be inspected, must be checked according to
this method or similar. Orders below 1000 m should be 100% inspected. (MR)

Premium Quality Brands orders:

100% of bulk fabric must be inspected according to
4-point system. (MR)

8.3. Yarn Inspection (MR)

An H&M Group Supplier must have a method for yarn inspection, representing all colours and dye
lots within a colour.
The yarn must be visually and technically inspected according to H&M Group’s order request.
The Supplier must have a system/ method to secure that the yarn meets the agreed quality
standards and is what the buyer has agreed to buy. This can be done by internal/ external testing or
by another method to secure the yarn source.

Recommended tests for heavy knit/ socks:

• yarn count
• each lot: Yarn colour, evenness and elasticity (if contains elastan):
- Knit panel, check the colour, evenness and elasticity (if contains elastan) after production wash
procedure
• each colour: Pilling and other test
- Knit panel, check the hand feel and do the pilling test after production wash procedure
- check shrinkage, staining and twisting
Vertical jersey suppliers (with own knitting) must have a system/ method to secure that the ready
jersey fabric meet the agreed quality standards by ensuring the yarn quality.
Other tests will be done at fabric stage.
Records should be kept for 12 months.

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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8.4. Other Material Inspection (MR)

An H&M Group Supplier must have a method for visual and technical inspection of any kind of raw
material, e.g. leather, PU etc. representing all colours and lots (if any) according to H&M order
request and quality standards, with records kept for 12 months. For leather see Leather Inspection
Guideline which is found in our Supplier Portal.

8.5. Fabric and Yarn Shrinkage Control for adjusting production patterns (MR)
An H&M Group Supplier must perform shrinkage tests of bulk fabric/yarn according to production
process, to be able to estimate the shrinkage prior to cutting/knitting.
When fabric/yarn lots have different shrinkage levels, separate cutting/knitting patterns must be
adjusted with the correct shrinkage allowance.

Fabric/yarn selected for testing must represent all colours and all lots within a delivery. Shrinkage
records must be maintained for both warp and weft directions and kept for 12 months.

8.6. Trim Inspection

Trims includes: threads, buttons, zippers, touch & close fastener (Velcro), stoppers, labels, hangtags, press
buttons, lace, elastic etc.
An H&M Supplier is required to:
• perform an inspection of each trim immediately upon delivery
• pick samples to inspect randomly, according to AQL (acc. to brand & product)/ 10% or
suitable quantity according to type of trim and risk
• make sure all parts of trims do represent all colours
• inspect general quality/ functionality/ size & grading/ pre-shrunk elastic/ data-sheet where
needed
• ensure that trims comply with the H&M Quality Standards & Requirements/ Chemical
Restrictions which can be found at H&M Supplier Portal.
• make visual colour evaluation in a light box against standard/ bulk fabric

8.7. Trim Card

Trim card must be:

• made from bulk fabric/yarn
• made in correct colours with all correct trims and labels
• kept in the factory (copy)

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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8.8. Labels

The H&M Group Supplier must have a system to ensure that correct labels are used on each product for
every selling country.

The system starts with preparation of trim card and label boards and must be followed carefully during
production. See more information in the chapter Production.

8.9. Pull Force Test of Buttons and Other Trims (MR)

H&M Group Supplier’s producing for Babies’ and Children below 3 years must use a pull force test
machine. All trims like buttons, rivets etc. must be tested.

Tested garments must be:

• permanently marked with date, time, signature & name of
operator and machine code/number
• kept separately from bulk production, preferably in a locked
box or room
• available for H&M Group staff
Information regarding pull force test can be found in H&M Pull
force test of buttons and trims and H&M Lab Manual at the
Supplier Portal.

All trims like buttons, rivets etc. must be tested every 4th hour
during production according to the routine in H&M Pull force test
of buttons and trims. See also chapter Production.

Information regarding Children Safety can be found in the QS&R

Part 11-14 on the Supplier Portal.

8.10. Fabric, Yarn, Trim Storage (MR)

• goods must be stored on shelves or pallets (to allow for good air circulation)
if storage room is not air conditioned and protected from humidity/ dirt/ rain (MR)
• RH must be kept below 65%
• fabric/yarn/trims must be covered properly to prevent from damage, soil, mould (MR)
• fabric must not be stacked too high to prevent from damaging the bottom rolls (MR)

• fabric/yarn/trims must be stored by customer, order number or type of product

• received/ expiry date must be clearly marked & controlled on components where properties can
change during storage e.g. elastic
• rejected fabric/yarn/trims must be clearly marked and kept separate from approved bulk lots to
avoid mix up.

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
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9. Spreading and Cutting

Important:
• woven: All parts in one product and same quality, must be cut from the same layer consisting of
the same dye lot
• jersey: all parts in one product and same quality, must be cut from the same dye lot
• directional fabric e.g. cord, velvet, print: all parts in one product
must be cut in the same direction, if there is no other agreement
• pattern pieces must not be damaged or overlapping when
markers are drawn
• all pattern pieces on marker must be placed correct on grain line
• pins can never be used when attaching the marker onto the
fabric
• ply height must be suitable according to the fabric type and it
should be clearly displayed how many plys per fabric type are
allowed.
• splices, both layers must overlap past the marked splice
• fabrics containing elastomeric yarn must relax 24 h or according
to need of the specific material (min. 12 h), unrolled and flat
folded before cutting (relaxation can be needed both before and after
spreading). Exception if the material is pre-shrunk and not rolled.
• cut panels from top layer, middle layer and bottom layer must
be checked for size conformance and records must be kept
• remnants of fabric must be saved and marked with roll and
shade number (to be able to replace defective parts during production)
• there must be a regular control and calibration of fusing – time,
temperature and pressure according to data sheet from the
fusing supplier
• leather: important to follow actual requirements of H&M/ the brand

10. Production
In every production area the emphasis must be to foresee potential problems and take preventive
action.
If a problem occurs:

• identify the problem

• make a root cause analysis by digging deep enough. See chapter Root
Cause Analysis and System for Improvement in H&M Quality System
Requirements for Suppliers – General.
• document the CAPA
• take the corrective/ preventive action
• follow up on the result
• if no improvement it is needed to go back and check for another root cause and another action.
The document is there to remember what actions have been made, what did not work and what gave
good result.

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

An effective communication flow and feedback loop between the different departments is crucial to
be able to work for improvements.
When a problem is found in final control or during inspection in a later stage the information must
be communicated back to supervisors, process controllers and quality controllers in the production
line or to the related department and a quick action must be taken. If a material problem is found in
the sewing line the feedback must go back to the cutting- or material department etc.

Inform H&M local office when the production planning is settled.

To keep a consistent quality level H&M Group recommends the Supplier’s to produce the
base/repeat/trail orders continuously and if possible in the same line/lines and by the same operators.

Minimum Manufacturing Requirements must be followed during the whole production, if no other
information has been given.

Information regarding manufacturing can be found in H&M Minimum Manufacturing Requirements at

the Supplier Portal.

10.1. Pre-Production meeting (MR)

Before a Production can start, the Supplier must conduct a pre-production meeting, and discuss
how to produce the goods with a consistent quality. The purpose of this meeting is to foresee
potential risks and take preventive actions, either to adjust some processes or identify the
number/type of controls and tests that are going to be required.

The Supplier is required to:

• gather responsible managers (e.g. Sample/Quality assurance/
Cutting/Sewing/Inspection/Packing), Independent QC and responsible H&M Group personnel
(when applicable)
• have a risk assessment regarding machinery, materials, trims, pattern, changes etc.
• go through fit, technical solutions and all details on the product
• keep a record from the meeting and follow up on agreed preventive actions
• inform the result from the meeting to all concerned production units and people
• when possible hold the meeting in the actual production unit

10.2. Trial Production/Pre-Production

The Supplier is required to:
• do a trial cutting/ production/ knitting before bulk production can start
• finish 150 – 600 pieces, covering all/ jumping sizes and all colours (when possible) for analysis
• have an inspection of the first finished garments, where the Production manager, Quality manager,
Independent QC and Sample responsible are involved
• make adjustments before bulk cutting can start
• keep a record from the inspection including agreed CAP
• follow up on the implementation and result of the CAP

GPQD 15 (23)
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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Suggestion for trial production of small quantity orders:

Number of samples in trial

Total order quantity
production
0-1500 5-15 pcs
>1500 25-50 pcs

10.3. Process control (MR)

H&M Group require the factory to have an efficient process control system in all production
processes. It should be not only stitching and knitting but also in e.g. embroidery, linking, buttoning
etc. The process controllers must
• have enough knowledge and information to identify the source of the eventual weak points
• use the knowledge to take necessary actions, inform and educate the personnel – in
cooperation with supervisors

• Critical operations must be defined by sample room/ production/ quality team.

• Each operator/ machine must be evaluated minimum 2 times/ day and critical operations more
often (e.g. 6 times a day). Have enough knowledge and information to identify source of the
eventual weak points.
• Reports must be kept in real time, information shared, and immediate actions taken in case of a
problem.
• There must be a feedback loop to process controllers, e.g. if any problem found during
inspections or in any later stage and quick actions taken for improvements.

For more information reg. process control see supporting document Process control.

10.4. Stitching, Knitting and Linking

H&M recommends the factory to work with a line system. This is to maintain a continuous quality
level throughout the production and increase the capacity. Other setups are also accepted if they
give the same efficiency of quality output.

The Supplier should make sure that:

• machine operators take responsibility over their machines

• trimming is taken care of throughout the stitching and knitting process
• end line checker returns uncut threads to the line and report as a defect
• trimmed loose threads are permanently removed
• pressing is done throughout the stitching process (depends on product & material)
• instructions/guidelines (e.g. mock ups) are prepared by the sample room to help the operator to
keep a consistent quality

GPQD 16 (23)
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Valid for all brands in H&M group

• all panels in one garment are knitted as approved c/s

• there is a system/ routine to control knit density,
panel- and garment weight before and after wash
according to core/ premium brands routine
For Premium Quality Brands see more information in
COS Quality Requirements and ARKET Quality
Requirements.
• have light tables/ cones for control of
panels/garments/products or similar

• have Quality controllers (QC’s) working on the production floor, both inline and end of line (at least
one working inline and one at the end of the line)
• have Supervisors and Process controllers ambulating the production floor
• the team consisting of QC’s, Supervisors and Process controllers work close together in open
communication to maintain a high and even quality level during the whole production

When a problem occur the production/QC team must:

o identify the problem
o make a root cause analysis by digging deep enough. See chapter Root Cause Analysis and
System for Improvement in H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers – General.
o stop the process if needed
o document the CAPA
o take the corrective/ preventive action
o communicate with the department/ process which is related with the root cause
o follow up on the result
o if no improvement it is needed to go back and check for another root cause and another action.
The document is there to remember what actions have been made, what did not work and what
gave good result.

• have Mechanics taking care of the machine maintenance on regular basis, records must be kept
per machine

All inspection points must have

• a written procedure
• inspection criteria, standards what is ok/ not ok
• a clear separation of defect products
There must be a system to control repair goods with a timeline - minimum within same day – and a
responsible person

All reports from the inspection points must be kept in real time/ minimum hourly and feedback go
back to related supervisor, operator or previous process so that quick improvement actions can be
taken. A software system is also good if the result can be followed in real time/ minimum hourly to
be able to take quick improvement actions.

GPQD 17 (23)
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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

10.5. Needle and Sharp Object Control (MR)

The Supplier is required to:
• make sure the operator doesn´t move until assistance arrives and that all parts of a broken
needle are found and taped into a record
• make sure scissors and other sharp objects are secured to the work station, with a chain or a
ribbon
• follow the same procedure also for knitting machine needles, linking points, tagging gun
needles

Information regarding needle and sharp object control can be found in the H&M Guideline for
needle and sharp object control at H&M Supplier Portal.

10.6. Label Control in Production

The H&M Group Supplier must have a system to ensure that correct labels are used on each product for
every selling country. The trim card and label boards must be followed carefully during production.

The Supplier is required to:

• make sure the operators only keep one size label at the same time
• make sure all remaining labels/ size labels are removed from the line after completed order/ size
• verify all labels with approved trim card in beginning-, in line-, and end of line control

Example of good practice:

• authorized person to issue, control and handle labels
• product- & order number clearly displayed at checking tables
• clear identification in production of countries with special label demands
• over all country wise requirement information board
• for washed garments, “wash type” with the “label protection method” needs to be written on the
trim card (for the labels not to fade out)

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Valid for all brands in H&M group

10.7. Pull Force Test of Buttons and Other Trims (MR)

H&M Group Supplier’s producing for Babies’ and Children below 3 years must use a pull force test
machine. All trims like buttons, rivets etc. must be tested.

Tested garments must be:

• permanently marked with date, time, signature & name of operator and machine code/number
• kept separately from bulk production, preferably in a locked box or room
• available for H&M Group staff

All trims like buttons, rivets etc. must be tested every 4th hour during production according to the
routine in H&M Pull force test of buttons and trims and H&M Lab Manual at the Supplier Portal. See
also chapter Material & Components.

10.8. Separate lines for Premium Quality Brands/ Premium Quality Products
• The Supplier is recommended to have separate Premium Quality Brands/ Products lines
compared to H&M lines to avoid mixed quality level on the outcome of the production.
• The operators/ workers/ quality controllers must get special training according to Premium
Quality Brands/Products Quality requirements.
• For tailoring styles /coats/blazers we recommend having ironing stations between the
operations in the sewing line

11. Finishing
A careful finish is extremely important for the total impression of the product.
The threads should first of all be cut by the operator in the sewing line. The end line controllers should
not cut the uncut threads, which should instead be reported as defects and returned back to the
operator to be cut.

11.1. Trimming

Final trimming must be done in the finishing area before packing, if not already made in the
production line. All trimmed loose threads must be permanently removed. Our tolerance is 3-5mm.

11.2. Buttoning
The Supplier must make sure that:

• all buttons except spare button are sewn with lock stitch machine
• on each start/ stop or new fabric/ type of button a mock-up is made with 2 buttons to control that
adjustment of the machine, needles and thread quality is correct
• needles are changed when needed and mechanics are available
• buttons are trimmed, and loose threads are permanently removed

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Valid for all brands in H&M group

• supervisors and process controllers are ambulating the floor to control in the process with records
kept

GPQD 20 (23)
July 2019 Version 1

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

11.3. Pressing/ boarding

The Supplier must make sure that:
• supervisors are ambulating the floor
• instructions are given to the workers
• heat is adjusted to fit the material
• shine marks are avoided
• press table covers are changed regularly
• measurement tapes and measurement lists are used by the workers
• moulds are used for heavy and fine knit

If measurement problems are found in ironing and measuring the feedback must go back to the
production line so that needed improvement actions can be taken.

Premium Quality Brands/ Premium Quality Products:

• work with highly delicate fabrics which demand a very careful pressing and ironing.
• It is extra important to make a trial first to make sure the pressing is suitable for the selected
fabric.

11.4. Final Control

All products must be checked carefully before packed.
The final control must include:
• overall appearance and general quality
• measurements based on approved C/S and latest measurement list
• size label, hangtag, price tag and care label containing correct information

The final controllers must be informed if there are any specific focus areas from production.
Reports must be kept in real time/ minimum hourly and feedback going back to supervisor/
related lines.

All inspection points must have

• a written procedure
• inspection criteria, standards what is ok/ not ok
• a clear separation of defect products
There must be a system to control repair goods with a timeline - minimum within same day – and a
responsible person.

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12. Packing to 13. Inspections

GPQD 21 (23)
July 2019 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Requirements from chapter Packing to Inspections should be followed from the H&M Quality System
Requirements – General – which is found on our Supplier Portal.
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GPQD 22 (23)
July 2019 Version 1

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H&M Quality System Requirements for Suppliers - Textile GPQD - 000202
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Reference document
Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics - ASTM D5430 (4-point fabric
inspection)
http://www.astm.org/Standards/D5430.htm

Quality books for inspiration

Juran's Quality Handbook, Seventh Edition

http://asq.org/quality-press/display-item/?item=P1620

The Quality Toolbox, Second Edition by Nancy R.Tague ISBN 978-0-87389-639-9

http://asq.org/quality-press/display-item/index.html?item=H1224&xvl=76BK_H1224

The Certified Manager of Quality / Organizational Excellence Handbook, Fourth Edition

ISBN-13:978-0-87389-678-8 ISBN 978-0-87389-861-4
http://asq.org/quality-press/display-item/?item=H 1447

What is Total Quality Control, by Kaoru Ishikawa

ISBN-10: 0139524339, ISBN-13: 978-0139524332
http://www.amazon.com/What-Total-Quality-Control-Japanese/dp/

Version history table

Version Date Valid from Changes made Page or Chapter
1 July 2019 July 2019 Original -

GPQD 23 (23)
July 2019 Version 1

General Information