Seam and Hem
Finishes
Group 1
Group 1 Members
Ana Marie Rubia Annie Sampayan
Andrea Victor Joeven Vito
Learning Objectives
At the end of this lesson, the student must be able to:
Distinguish the seam and hem finishes
Appreciate the importance and use of seam and
hem finishes for clothing construction
Construct simple seam and hem finishes
Seam
Seams are an essential element to every garment
and fabric accessory, as they join the material
together to create the item.
Seams are used for hems and to finish necklines
and edges.
Seams are used to gather fabric and create
pleats.
Seam
Seams can either be open or closed.
An open seam is one where the seam
allowance, the piece of fabric between the
edge of the material and the stitches, is
visible.
A closed seam incorporates the seam
allowance within the seam finish, making it
invisible.
HEM
A hem is a finish for any bottom edge of a garment
Selection of the hemming method depends largely on
garment style and fabric.
Whatever the choice, certain criteria should always be
met.
the garment should hang evenly and gracefully
there should be no lumpiness in the hem allowance
unless meant to be decorative, finished hems should
be totally inconspicuous
SEAM HEM
A seam is the joining of two A hem is sewing the edge of a
or more pieces of fabric. piece of fabric.
DIFFERENT TYPES
OF SEAM
1. PLAIN SEAM
A plain seam is simply the way two pieces of
fabric are joined together. The right side of the fabric
is placed together with the right side of the other piece of
fabric and they are stitched along the seam allowance. Plain
seams can be stitched using a straight machine stitch or a very
small zigzag stitch if you need some elasticity. They can also
be hand-stitched using a backstitch that holds the seam firmly
and has some strength.
How to sew a Plain Seam?
1. Put your two pieces of fabric with right sides together and the raw
edges even.
2. Stitch along the seam allowance line. This may be different amounts
depending on the item you are sewing. Common seam allowances
are ¼ inch (6mm) for stretch, and ⅜ inch (1cm) for purses, and
½ inch (12mm) to ⅝ inch (15mm) for clothing.
3. Neaten the raw edges with one of the finishing
options. The edges may be pressed open and finished
separately or pressed to one side and finished together.
PLAIN SEAM
2. DOUBLE-STITCHED SEAM
This is like a Plain Seam, but a second Plain Seam is sewn
between the first and the raw edges of the seam allowance in
order to provide a stronger seam for the fabrics being sewn
together as well as B. This type of seam is great for giving a
little extra hold to those lighter shirts and other flexible pieces,
but it can also be used on garments like pants and jackets
being made with lighter-weight fabrics.
How to sew a double-stitched seam?
Step 1. Make the first seam Step 2. Make the second seam
Pin the seam of the fabric right sides Sew the second stitching line at ⅛
together inch away from the one you made
Set the sewing machine to a straight stitch previously
with your preferred length and tension Backstitch the beginning of the row
Test the stitch settings on a piece of scrap to keep the stitches from
fabric and adjust accordingly unraveling
Work the first stitching line on where you Backstitch at the end of the
would typically put it stitching line as well
Follow the markings on the machine’s plate Trim the raw edge and press the
to ensure accurate placement of the stitches seam to the side to finish or leave
Remember to backstitch at the beginning of the edge be if your material is
the stitching line to secure the stitches delicate
Backstitch at the end of the stitching line as
well
DOUBLE-STITCHED SEAM
3. TOP-STITCHED SEAM
Top-Stitched Seams are typically straight stitch seams that
are visible from the right side of the fabric. These seams are
sewn on top of the right side of the fabric and are used for
both practical and decorative purposes, but the main function is
to reduce bulk from the seam allowance underneath.
How to sew a top-stitched seam?
1. Pin and sew the seam together at the desired seam allowance.
2. Clean finish the raw edges together using a serging or zigzag stitch.
3. Iron all the excess seam allowance towards one side, depending on which side you want the
top-stitching to be on.
4. Working on the face side of the garment again, apply a machine stitch at the desired
distance from seam line. Make sure you top-stitch on the side that has the seam allowance
at the back. The best practice for top-stitching is to align the seam line with the presser
foot's edge and keeping it aligned as you top-stitch.
TOP-STITCHED SEAM
4. FRENCH SEAM
The French seam is basically a seam within a seam. It is
strong and durable but should be used only on straight edges.
This seam is used on lightweight woven, sheer, and other
delicate fabrics. It is an excellent choice for see-through
fabrics. In this type of seam, the edges of the fabric can't be
seen so no seam finish is needed. French seams can be
constructed by hand or sewing machine.
How to sew a French seam?
1. Place the wrong sides of the fabric together,
matching the stitching lines.
2. Stitch 3/8-inch from the cut edge of the
fabric. Press.
3. Trim to within 1/8- to 1/4-inch of the
stitching. Press seam to one side.
4. Turn remaining fabric over the seam,
enclosing it. Crease and press on stitching
line.
5. Stitch on seam line, approximately 1/4-inch
from the turned edge, to enclose the raw
edges.
6. Press to one side
FRENCH SEAM
5. FLAT-FELLED SEAM
A flat-felled seam is an extremely strong closed seam
that is often used for items like jeans. It covers the
fabric’s raw edges well and keeps the seam flat. Like the
french seam, it is a double-stitched, closed seam.
How to sew a Flat-Felled seam?
1. Stitch: Stitch your pieces together with at least a 1/2″ seam allowance.
If you want the double topstitched ridge on the right side (as seen on
jeans), start with fabric pieces wrong sides together. Otherwise place pieces
right sides together.
2. Press and trim: Press the seam flat and trim one seam allowance down to
1/4″. Fold and press the other seam to allow a raw edge 1/4 inch toward
the seam.
3. Wrap: Wrap the folded seam allowance around the trimmed raw edge of
the shorter seam allowance. Press away from the seam line. Pin if desired.
4. Stitch again: Stitch down close to the wrapped/folded edge. This
stitching will be visible on both sides of the finished seam, so make sure to
choose your top thread and bobbin thread accordingly.
FLAT-FELLED SEAM
6. SLOT SEAM
Slot seams are a seam that is decorative with a
pop of color inserted underneath. They look a little
like a tuck or pleat but are constructed slightly
differently by creating folds on either side and
stitching a piece of fabric underneath. Slot seams are
common decorations on shirts and dresses and are
easy to sew.
How to sew a Slot seam?
1. Fabric Choices and Cutting
Choose scraps of contrasting colors to make your practice sample. This will
help you see the steps you take to get the slot seam right. This explanation
uses pink for the main and green for the contrast.
Cut a piece of contrast fabric (green) 1 ½ inches (4cm) wide by the height of
your main fabric. The contrast fabric width needs to be at least two times your
seam allowance.
(15mm).
2. Finish the Edges
Finish the edges of the seam allowance. Also, finish the edges of your contrast
color. If you are using a serger, just trim the minimum amount you can.
How to sew a Slot seam?
3. Baste the Seam
Place the main (pink) fabric right sides together. Now using a basting stitch or
the longest stitch length on your machine, stitch the seam. Do not backstitch
because this line of basting will be removed.
4. Mark the Contrast
Mark the middle of the contrasting (green) piece by folding and finger pressing
just to guide you when you match this piece to the basted seam.
5. Align
The seam of the basted fabric is going to match the finger-pressed seam line
just to get the smaller piece, the slot piece, to fit accurately with the two
pieces of the lapped effect.
Place the smaller piece of neatened fabric under the larger piece with the seam
you have basted running in line with the finger pressed line marking.
How to sew a Slot seam?
6. Stitch
At this point, you will be sewing down either side of the seam line that has
been basted together. The wider the distance you choose to sew from the
basted seam the bigger the show of color from the slot.
Sew a seam straight down each side and end off.
7. Remove Basting
Now you have completed the stitching it is time to remove the basting down
the center. Take a seam ripper and gently remove the stitches or pull on the
threads because you did not backstitch.
The seam down the center comes undone. It reveals the slotted fabric and the
stitching down the side keeps it all in place.
SLOT SEAM
Mock-French Seam
Double-top Stitched Seam
Bias-bound Seam
Corded Seam
SEAM FINISHES
Seam Finishes
Seam finishes may also be referred to as “edge” finishes, as they may be used
in locations other than seam allowances. These locations include hem edges
and facings. The method of construction is almost always the same, and the
goal is to prevent a raw edge from raveling (woven fabric) or curling (knit
fabric). Typical examples: Zig zag, turned and stitched, Pinked and stitched,
bound, & serged.
A well-constructed seam finish should:
Be neat and smooth in appearance, without added bulk.
Protect the area and prevent the edge from raveling, stretching, rolling,
or curling.
Not be visible from the right side of the garment.
DIFFERENT TYPES
OF SEAM FINISHES
1. MACHINE ZIGZAG
This finish is used on a plain seam on woven fabric.
It requires a sewing machine that has a zigzag stitch.
The finish is used on medium to heavyweight fabrics.
The zigzag stitch length (coverage) must be adjusted to
accommodate and prevent fabric raveling.
The more the fabric ravels, the closer together the stitches
need to be (tighten or shorten stitch length).
How to sew a Machine zigzag Seam Finish?
Step 1: With the right sides of the seam allowances together,
prepare a plain seam. Press it open.
Step 2: Adjust machine to the appropriate zigzag stitch and
length.
Step 3: On one seam allowance (single thickness), stitch close
to fabric edge
Step 4: Trim excess fabric close to the line of stitching. Press.
MACHINE ZIGZAG
2. PINKED AND STITCHED
This finish should be used only on firmly woven fabrics
or on items that will receive little wear, as in a garment
lining.
Pinking is sometimes used as a decorative edge, but it
does not prevent or retard raveling.
Its use in garment construction is limited.
Extra protection can be added with a row of stitching.
How to sew a Pinked and Stitched Seam
Finish?
Step 1: Stitch plain seam.
Step 2: Press seam open.
Step 3: Stitch ¼” from raw edge before pinking.
Step 4: trim 1/8” from seam allowance with pinking shears.
Step 5: Press seam open.
PINKED AND STITCHED
3. CLEAN-FINISHED (TURNED AND
STITCHED) SEAM FINISH
This finish is used not only for seams but also throughout
the garment when the fabric is lightweight.
It is not appropriate for heavyweight or knit fabrics
because it produces bulk.
How to sew a Clean-finished Seam Finish?
Step 1: With the right sides of the seam allowances together,
prepare a plain seam. Press the seam open.
Step 2: Turn the edge of the seam allowance under approximately
1/8- to 1/4-inch. Press.
Step 3: Stitch close to the edge through the folded fabric. Press.
CLEAN-FINISHED
4. BOUND SEAM FINISH
Appropriate for medium, medium-heavy, and heavyweight woven
fabrics.
Used frequently on unlined coats and jackets.
Can also be used on dresses and other items that have a tendency
to ravel.
This finish can be constructed by hand or on a sewing machine.
Several bound finishes are Bound with Binding, Self-bound and
Hong Kong.
How to sew a Bound with Binding Seam
Finish?
Step 1: Prepare a plain seam. Press it open.
Step 2: Encase each seam edge in tape/binding. If using bias tape,
the longer edge should go on the underneath side. If using tricot
binding, pull gently to get binding to fold slightly around the
edge to be bound.
Step 3: Stitch in place using a regulation straight stitch or a
long zigzag stitch. Press.
BOUND
4. SERGED SEAM FINISH
A line of overcast stitches is sewn over the raw edge of the
seam allowance. Produces a neat, clean finish that’s fray
resistant. Adds little bulk to the seam allowance. Quick and
easy to make because the stitching and trimming can be done in
one step. A serger machine is used in this.
An overlocker (or serger) is a type of sewing machine that uses
multiple threads to seam fabric while also overcasting to cover
raw edges. It can be used for construction, finishing, or both at
the same time.
How to sew a Serged Seam Finish?
Step 1: Finish the edge of the fabric before stitching the seam.
Step 2: Mark notches with tailor’s chalk or fabric
marking pen before serging.
SERGED SEAM FINISH
DIFFERENT TYPES
OF HEM
1. DOUBLE-FOLD HEM
A double fold hem is a type of hem where the edge is folded
twice so that the raw edge is completely tucked in and will not
fray. It is considered the most durable type of hem and is
commonly found in the majority of sewing patterns. The hem
can vary from narrow to wide.
How to sew a double-fold hem?
Step 1: First, press or fold the raw edge over by ¼ inch (6mm).
Step 2: Press the hem over a second time by the hem seam
allowance. Most common in the Treasurie sewing patterns is to
press it over again by ½ inch (12mm) or ¾ inch (2cm)
Step 3: Stitch close to the open folded edge with a matching
bobbin. Because the bobbin thread will show on the right side of
the garment.
DOUBLE-FOLD HEM
2. BLIND HEM (HAND SEWN)
A blind stitch hem is simply a hem where the stitches are not
showing on the outside of the garment. The invisibility is
enhanced by using a matching thread and creating minute vertical
stitches that blend into the fabric. It is particularly successful in
patterned fabrics that are light to medium weight.
How to sew a blind hem (Hand Sewn)?
Step 1: Fold the edge up 1 inch and iron.
Step 2: Fold up 1 inch again and iron.
Step 3: Blind stitch by sewing through 1 or 2 strands on the wrong
side of the fabric and the fold. It is advisable to use thread that matches
the garment to make the stitch invisible. Do this until you reach the end
side of the hem.
Step 4: Double knot to close the stitch and snip the thread.
Step 5: Iron on the right side of the fabric.
BLIND HEM (HANDSEWN)
3. NARROW ROLLED HEM
A narrow hem (also called rolled hems) is a great hemming
method for circular shapes and fine fabrics such as silks and
chiffon.
How to sew a Narrow Rolled Hem?
1. Start with the machine stitch and trim down as before.
2. Instead of rolling the edge, fold it to the wrong side of the fabric.
The line of machine stitching will be folded to the wrong side.
3. Finger crease the fold.
4. Pick up about 2 threads of the fabric next to the raw edge.
5. Then the needle goes up and diagonally and is inserted into the fold.
Then back down into the fabric near the edge.
6. Don’t pull the thread yet. Make about an inch worth of stitches at a
time before pulling the thread tight. When you pull the thread it will
“roll” the edge for you.
NARROW ROLLED HEM
4. BIAS TAPE HEM
This is a hem finish that uses bias tape. This is used when you
want to make the hem of the garment not too bulky, not like
rolled hem and double-fold hem. The most common one used
for hems is ½ inch (12mm) single-fold bias. This can be shop-
bought or you can make your own.
How to sew a Bias tape Hem?
Step 1: Open one side of the bias tape and pin to the right side of your garment.
(Right sides together) Stitch in the crease of the tape which will be ¼ inch (6mm)
from the raw edge.
Step 2: Press the bias to the wrong side. The seam will now be on the very edge
of the garment.
Step 3: Stitch the top edge of the bias tape to the inside of the garment either
by hand or machine.
Step 4: If you wish to have a wider hem, you can place the bias tape further up.
Bias Tape Hem
5. SERGED HEM
A popular way to sew a hem is using a combination of your
serger and regular machine. You will see these types of hems in
many store-bought clothing items. A zig-zag or overlocked hem
is great for most fabrics and particularly bulky or hard-to-
press fabrics. It is also great for sewing curved edges. This is
called a single fold hem.
How to sew a Serged Hem?
Step 1: Zig-zag or serger (overlock) the raw edge.
Step 2: Fold the edge up 1 inch then press it up once by the hem
allowance.
Step 3: Stitch across on top of the finished edge.
SERGED HEM
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