Cowl Simple Knit
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collydolly123Cowl Simple Knit
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collydolly123Just Slip It - 2018
by Susan Ashcroft
Yarn: the samples shown here were made in Aran
or DK weight, but you can use many different
weights, or a combination of weights
– see pg. 2 for examples.
Yardage: 2 contrasting yarns – examples on pg. 2
Single loop: approx. 100m/110yds of each
Double loop: approx. 200m/220yds of each
Scarf: short scarf same as for double loop,
for a longer scarf allow more yarn.
You don’t have to decide until the end
whether you want a scarf or cowl as long as
you have allowed enough yarn.
I have shown some samples here, but you can
find more yarn ideas and projects linked to the
Top one is Lorne’s Lace in the Sochi 2014 colourway pattern page on ravelry link [you'll also be
(gold, silver and bronze) with Juniper Moon Farm able to see the exact yardage used for
Moonshine on 5.5mm/US9 (approx. 180m of each) various cowls and scarves].
The knitting is very easy, but for a good result, you will need to pay attention to a few things,
which is why there are lots of notes – the actual instructions are on page 4:
choosing the right needle size – use AT LEAST one size larger than you would use for
stockinette with the heavier of your 2 yarns (the slipped stitches tighten the fabric and you
don’t have to worry about it being loose because the icord edge will keep it neat).
getting the size you want.
keeping the icord edge firm but even (particularly important if you want to make a scarf).
Abbreviations:
k= knit
p= purl
st[s] = stitch[es]
sl = slip (purlwise)
wyif/wyib = with yarn in front/back
MC/CC = main colour/contrast colour
RS/WS = right side/wrong side
WooHoo8 and Sweatermaker Szolo handspun on 7mm
© Ashcroft-Hempsall, 2018 - for personal, non-commercial use only.
Just Slip It - 2018 2
Making a swatch
You don’t need to make a swatch – you can just start and then restart if it’s not the size or texture you
like; but if you do decide you want to make a swatch to test your yarns together, to check the size, or to
practice the edge stitches, then cast on any multiple of 2 sts and work Rows 1-4 as explained on page 4.
If you are swatching to check gauge - be sure to treat your swatch as you will the finished item and
measure in the middle of the swatch in order to get an accurate gauge.
How to choose yarns ? Some things that work well:
I find it’s more interesting – both to knit and as a finished item - if one of the yarns has colour variation
such as variegated, striping, hand spun or even semi-solid; you can also use scraps and work in colourblocks.
It also works well to combine textures – tweed and mohair, smooth yarn and one with some texture, etc.
A special note about variegated yarn
Pooling has a bit of a bad name in the knitting community, but what I think of as “colour concentration” can
be very effective. Take a good look at your item - don’t focus on whether the yarn is “pooling”, but rather
whether the overall effect is pleasing to your eye or not – often “good pooling” creates a movement that
draws the eye through the item.
If your yarn is ‘”pooling” in a way you don’t like, try a few more or a few less stitches – it can make a big
difference to the overall effect.
Textured handspun with a smooth solid: Any weight yarn combined with mohair:
use a heavier yarn for the MC and use the needle
size for the heavier yarn for a nice lofty look:
Loud yarn made to “sing” instead of “shout”: Colourblocks:
This knit is a great way to showcase a yarn that you
perhaps find a little too bright on its own.
xstitch willi44
© Ashcroft-Hempsall, 2018 - for personal, non-commercial use only.
Just Slip It - 2018 3
Some suggestions for stitch counts – the width of the item will be determined by the gauge. Use this as a
basis – e.g. if you want your cowl 50% wider, add 50% more stitches – just be sure to allow extra yarn:
Gauge per 10cm/4” Needle size that might Number of stitches to
(in pattern) give this gauge cast on for width of approx. 22cm/8½”
15-16 sts (aran) 7mm 36
18 (worsted) 6mm 40
20 (DK) 5 – 5.5mm 46
22 (sport) 4.5 – 5mm 50
Sizing
It doesn’t really matter how wide you make your item, but you will need to be sure to have enough yarn.
I’ve shown a few examples here which you can use as a guide.
Generally for a double loop cowl I aim for about 130cm in length.
For a single cowl it depends how tight or loose you want it, best thing is to “baste” with a knitting needle
and try it on (if you want a tight version, just make sure it will fit over your head. ☻)
Double loop cowl or short scarf
Yarn used – Sweatermaker Szolo handspun and WooHoo8
(aran weight)
Approx. 130m of each
Gauge – approx. 15 sts (on 7mm)
Number of stitches: 36
Finished size – 22cm x 140cm long (8½ x 55”)
(made as a scarf, but could have been
joined as a cowl)
Single loop made by xstitch
Yarn used – Tosh Vintage and Malabrigo Rios (worsted)
Approx. 90m of each
Gauge – approx. 18 sts (on 5.5mm/US9)
Number of stitches: 40
Finished size – 9 x 26” (23 x 66cm)
© Ashcroft-Hempsall, 2018 - for personal, non-commercial use only.
Just Slip It - 2018 4
MAKING THE COWL/SCARF
Examples are shown on pages 2-3.
Notes:
The right hand edge will generally be a bit tighter than the left hand edge – for a cowl this really doesn’t
matter because it just means the bottom edge will flare out a bit, which looks nice.
For a scarf, I’d suggest paying a little attention to the edges to try to keep them even; if you’re planning a
scarf you might like to swatch a bit to practice – if not, just be sure to adjust if you see there’s a big
difference – blocking will generally even it out.
If in doubt, slide your stitches onto a length of yarn and block what you’ve knitted to check.
CAST-ON
I made my original ones with a provisional cast-on and then kitchenered them together, but because
of the slipped stitches you can’t get a perfectly invisible seam the way you can with stockinette or
many other stitches. For that reason I decided it was easier to just use a cable cast-on and then join.
I personally like to do what I call “half-kitchener ” – joining the live stitches to the line of stitches
just above the cast-on – you get an invisible seam on the RS, and although there is a ridge on the WS,
it’s relatively fine because there’s only 1 cast-on edge, not 2; but you can also cast off and use a
regular seam if you prefer. (If you wish, you can use provisional cast-on and then kitchener, or use
3-needle bind-off like the originals).
Notes: for the i-cord edge, be sure to pull tight after slipping the 2 sts. at the edge (but not
too tight, just enough to keep it nice and even).
When changing yarns, always pick the new yarn up from underneath.
Cast on your desired number of stitches (see pg. 3 for guide) using cable cast-on, worked firmly
and evenly using your MC : http://stitchnerd.blogspot.be/2011/10/cable-cast-on.html
Row 1 (RS) with CC: sl2 pw wyib, * k1, sl1 wyif, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 with CC : sl2 pw wyif, purl to the end of the row.
Row 3 with MC: sl2 pw wyib, * sl1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 4 with MC: sl2 pw wyif, purl to the end of the row.
Repeat rows 1-4 until you are ready to join or cast off,
stopping after a Row 3.
Blocking: I recommend you block the strip before joining so that
you’ll know the exact finished size and can make adjustments that
might be needed BEFORE seaming.
For a cowl: use the “half-kitchener” method described above,
or cast-off and then seam your usual way.
For a scarf: bind off on the WS using use classic lifted bind-off.
Start by slipping the 1st and 2nd sts, lift the 1st over the 2nd, knit Cable cast-on edge – when sewing
the 3rd, lift the 2nd over the 3rd, then continue to k1 and lift the together be sure to work BELOW
previous stitch over until you get to the end of the row. the first row of slipped stitches.