Stitch Types
STITCH
• A stitch is a loop structure of threads.
• Stitching is… a series of stitches.
• Sewing process of making stitching or
seams.
• Stitch :Loop or loops of one or more
threads when bounds with each other by
interlacing, interlocking, or interlooping or
intralooping or any combination during
sewing .Then each unite of such
structure seam is called stitch.
STITCH TYPE
Lockstitch Chainstitch
Oscillating shuttle Rotary hook
* Domestic * Industrial
Rotary looper Oscillating looper
* Button Stitching * 2T- chain
Overlock
Coverseam
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LOCK STITCH AND CHAIN
STITCH
Lock stitch Chain stitch
1 Stitch class 300 Stitch class 400
2 Stitches are formed by using the Stitches are formed by using the principal
principal of interlacing. of interloping /Interlacing
3 Minimum two sets of threads required: Minimum two sets of threads required:
a. Needle thread b. Bobbin thread. a. Needle thread b. Lopper thread.
4 Lock stitch strength is comparatively Strength of multi thread chain stitch is
less than the multi thread chain stitch . higher than lock stitch .
5 SPM of lock stitch 6000 SPM chain stitch is 8000.
6 Lock stitch is suitable for woven Chain stitch is suitable for both knit and
garments than knit garments . woven garments .
7 Lock stitch both side look like same . Chain stitch front side is look like lock
stitch but back side seen as chain
effect .
STITCH TYPES
• This is about 88 types of stitching are
available and among them, 18 to 20
types of stitches are widely used in
garments industries also, 2 & 3 types of
stitching are used in making of garments
for tailoring purpose. The six classes of
stitch included in the British standard
are as follows.
STITCH CLASSES
Stitch Classes Stitch types Number of
subdivided classes
1 100 Single thread chain 7
stitch
2 200 Hand stitch 13
3 300 Lock stitch 27
4 400 Multi thread chain stitch 17
5 500 Over- edge stitch chain 15
stitch
6 600 Covering chain stitch 9
The stitch is sorted by 6 classes and each class is subdivided.
Number of sub divided classes is 88 in total
STITCH CLASS-100 (SINGLE THREAD
CHAIN STITCH)
• These types of stitches contain different types of
stitches:
• Single thread chain stitch, has a needle thread, and a
blind looper.
• Stitches are formed by intralooping.
• A thread is passed through the fabric by the needle
&loop is prepared which is bound with the previous
loop made by same needle.
• If one end of the thread is pulled, then the whole
sewing will be opened.
• This type of stitch includes stitch type -101,103 etc.
• Uses temporary joining. (Because of less secured
stitching). positioning hemming, basting, button holing,
button attaching purposes.
1-THREAD CHAIN STITCH CLASS-101
1- THREAD BLIND STITCH -103
• This type of stitch is formed with one thread and
curved needle which passes from left to right.
• This type of stitch is clearly seen from the back side
but not from the front side.
• Not long lasting stitch
• Uses: Hemming of pants & shirts.
1-THREAD BLIND STITCH -103
STITCH CLASS -200 (HAND
STITCH):
• It is a machine made version of traditional hand
stitching.
• This m/c is called pick stitch sewing M/c
• This type of stitch is formed with one thread.
• Sometimes this stitch referred to as saddle stitch.
• Special type of needle is used.
• Rare is use, limited length of sewing
• Uses: lapel of jacket, coat & expensive clothes.
Stitch type -209 is used for edge of the jacket.
STITCH CLASS: 209 (HAND STITCH ):
STITCH CLASS – 300 ( LOCK STITCH )
★ Lockstitch, has a needle thread and a bobbin thread.
★ Stitch is formed by a needle thread introduced from one side of the material
interlacing with an under thread.
★ Most common of the stitch types
★ Does not unravel easily,
★ Poor extension.
★ Both side of stitch look like same
★ Uses least amount of thread
★ Excellent seam security
★ Lower productivity
★ More susceptible to thread breaks,
Uses: Topstitching common seam sewing, Single needle stitching, & straight
stitching. also used for button holing, attaching, blind stitching etc.
★ Common classes – 301, 304 .315
1- NEEDLE LOCK STITCH -301
Common uses : Top stitching, Single Needle
Stitching, Straight Stitching.
STITCH CLASS 304 – (ZIG ZAG LOCK
STITCH )
★ Lockstitch zig zag, has a needle thread and a
bobbin thread.
★ Similar to 301, but in a zigzag Pattern.
★ Has better extension due to the zig zag
configuration.
★ Used mostly on lingerie , foundation wear and
underwear, where a secure seam with good
extension is required.
ZIG –ZAG LOCK STITCH-304
B
MULTI THREAD CHAIN STITCH
CLASS-400
Two or more thread is used to form this stitch .
The loop of one set thread is passed through the fabric & bound with
another set of thread by interlacing & interlooping .
one set of thread is called needle & another set of thread is called
looper thread .
The front side of the stitch look like lock stitch but back side is seen
as chain.
★ Higher seam strength and seam stretch than a lock stitch
★ Higher productivity.
★ Seam runback (unraveling) is a big problem.
★ Used for joining trouser panels, riser seams and felled seams in
jeans. Waist belt . Side seam shirt .
★ Mostly used stitch class: 401, 404,406,407, &408.
STITCH TYPE 401
Uses: waist band , inseam of jeans , side seam/
sleeve seam of the shirt. Rainwear.
ZIG ZAG MULTI THREAD CHAIN STITCH -404
• The 404 stitch formation is commonly referred to
as the zigzag chain stitch .Similar to 401, but in
a zigzag pattern.
• Uses: Commonly use children wear .Binding&
Topstitching etc.
N N
2-Needle Bottom Cover chain Stitch Class -406
★ Cover seam stitch, has 2 needle and 1 looper thread.
★ Excellent extension, easy to unravel.
★ Used for :
★ T shirts/knits sleeves and bottom hems.
★ stitching of belt loops in jeans & trousers.
★ Gives very good extension, and is mostly used to cover a raw edge in the fabric
after the fabric has been hemmed etc.
N1
N2
L
3- NEEDLE BOTTOM COVER CHAIN
STITCH- 407
This type of stitch is formed with four threads: three
needle threads (N1, N2& N3) and one lopper thread
(L). Loops of the needle threads (N1, N2&N3) are
passed through the material and interlaced and
interloped with loops of thread (L).
• Uses: Attaching elastic band, Panties & underwear.
N
1
N
2
N
3
L
2- NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH WITH COVER THREAD
-408
• This type of stitch is formed with five
threads: two needle threads (A& A1) and
two lopper threads (B&B1 )and one top
covering thread (C) .Loops of the needle
threads (A,& A1,) are passed through the
material and interlaced and interloped
with loops of thread(B&B1).The top
covering thread is laid between and
around the needle threads on the surface of
the material the interloping of the needle
and lopper .
• Uses: Attaching pocket facing to jeans&
casual pants .
2- NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH WITH COVER
THREAD -408
OVER LOCK/OVER EDGE CHAIN STITCH
-500
● Class 500: is over lock over edge stitch type, is formed
with one or more needles and/or looper threads with at
least one thread passing round the edge of the material
being sewn.
❖ Excellent stretchable good recovery
❖ Before sewing the fabric edge is cleaned by the
knife of the m/c which is placed at front of the
needle.
❖ Seam or edge neatening
❖ Suitable for many types of fabric
❖ This stitch type can be used to make a
decorative edge.
• Common Subclasses: 503, 504,512,514,515& 516
2- THREAD OVER LOCK -503
Stitch formed by 1-needle thread and 1-looper thread
with purl on edge of seam for surging or blind hemming only.
3 -THREAD OVER LOCK STITCH -504
★ 3 thread over lock, has 1 needle thread and 2 looper threads.
★ Has excellent extension and does not unravel easily.
★ However this is not a tight stitch and seam security could be a
problem.
★ Used for surging to stop fabric fraying, and for joining 2 or more
plies together.
N
L1
L2
4 –THREAD MOCK SAFETY STITCH
-512
★ Mock safety stitch, has 2 needle and 2 looper threads
★ Very good extension, will not unravel easy.
★ Side seams, join panels, attach sleeves, join shoulders
etc. on knitted fabrics, t-shirts, polo shirt.
★ Where there is a need for a secure seam that needs
very good extension.
★ 512 is more secure than 504 (3 thread over lock) but
less secure than 516 (5 thread safety stitch)
4 –THREAD MOCK SAFETY STITCH -512
N1
N2
L2
L1
2 needle & 2 Looper Threads)
4- THREAD OVER LOCK CHAIN
STITCH-514
N1
N2
L1
L2
2 needle & 2 Looper Threads)
4 –THREAD SAFETY STITCH-515
• Combination stitch consisting of a single-
needle
chain stitch (401) and a 2-thread Over edge
stitch (503)
• that are formed simultaneously. Uses less
thread than a 516 stitch; however, many
manufacturers prefer a516 stitch.
• Common Application: Safety stitch
Seaming ovens& Knits.
5 THREAD OVER LOCK/ SAFETY
STITCH-516
★ 5 thread safety stitch, has 2 needle threads and 3
looper threads. A combination stitch Has two stitch
types in one, 504 and 401.
★ Good extension, very strong. If one fails the other
can absorb the strain.
★ Used for joining panels where seam stretch is
critical or joining seams where security of seam is
important. Jeans (inside legs) side seams and
sleeves on shirts, etc.
★ High seam elasticity
5 THREAD OVER LOCK/ SAFETY
STITCH-516
N1
L1
N2
L2
L3
TOP AND BOTTOM COVER STITCH-
600
• The cover stitch or 600 class, often called a flat lock or a
flat seam stitch, is an advanced version of the 400 class
and is used primarily on knits and lingerie.
• The stitch is formed by two or more needle loops passing
through the material, Interlooping on the underside and
interlocking on the upper side.
• A spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover
thread across the surface of the fabric between the
needles.
• These stitches, referred to as top and bottom cover
stitches, are commonly used to cover both sides of the
seam with thread.
• Threads must be chained off and be crossed by another
seam.
2 NEEDLE 4 THREAD TOP AND
BOTTOM COVER CHAIN STITCH -602
★ Top and Bottom cover seam stitch, has 2 needle, 1
looper and 1 spreader thread.
★ Used :
★ As a stitch to cover the joint between binding and the
garment (necks of knits)
★ As a decorative stitch on night gowns & sweat shirts
★ For stitching legs of aerobic wear and straps on
swimwear. stitch/attach binding to knitted night
gowns. Sweat shirts etc.
★ Has excellent extension, when a small stitch is used
excellent seam cover is achieved.
2 NEEDLE 4 THREAD TOP AND BOTTOM
COVER CHAIN STITCH -602
S
N1
N2
L
3 NEEDLE 5 THREAD TOP AND
BOTTOM COVER CHAIN STITCH -605
★ Utilizes 3 needle threads, one looper and one cover
thread.
★ Used in knitwear, lingerie & under garments.
★ High seam elasticity.
★ Flat, comfortable seams - ideal for 'next to skin' sewing
applications.
★ Can also be used as a decorative seam
★ Very high thread consumption.
3 NEEDLE 5 THREAD TOP AND
BOTTOM COVER CHAIN STITCH -605
N1
N2
N3
L
4 NEEDLE 6 THREAD TOP AND BOTTOM
COVER CHAIN STITCH -607
N1
N2
N3
N4
L
THREAD CONSUMPTIONS PER MACHINE
Total Thread Looper /
Needle
stitch Usage (cm per No. of Under (incl.
Description Thread
Class cm of seam) / Needles Cover)
%
Thread Ratio Threads %
301 Lockstitch 2.5 1 50 50
101 Chainstitch 4.0 1 100 0
Two Thread
401 5.5 1 25 75
Chain Stitch
Zigzag
304 7.0 1 50 50
Lockstitch
Two Thread
503 Overedge 12.0 1 55 45
Stitch
Three Thread
504 Overedge 14.0 1 20 80
Stitch
Four Thread
512 Mock Safety 18.0 2 25 75
Stitch
Five Thread
516 20.0 2 20 80
Safety Stitch
Total Thread
Looper / Under
stitch Usage (cm per No. of Needle
Description (incl. Cover)
Class cm of seam) / Needles Thread %
Threads %
Thread Ratio
Three
Thread
406 18.0 2 30 70
Covering
Stitch
Four Thread
602 Covering 25.0 2 20 80
Stitch
Five Thread
605 Covering 28.0 3 30 70
Stitch
Top Bottom View 12. _____ Single Needle 3
View
10. _____ Chainstitch or
Thread Overedge
_____ Lockstitch Buttonsew*
Purl on Edge
11. ______ Single Needle, Three
Thread Overedge
With Double Purl
1. _____ Single Thread
Blindstitch
2. _____ Three Needle
Five Thread Coverstitch
3. _____ Two Needle Four
Thread Coverstitch
4. _____ Three Needle - 4
Thread Bottom Coverstitch
5. _____ Two Needle, 3
Thread Bottom Coverstitch
6. _____ Chainstitch
7. _____ Lockstitch
8. _____ Single Thread
Chainstitch
9. _____ Two Needle Four
Thread Overedge
