BOXWOOD

G U I D E

5th Edition
 Welcome to the 5th Edition of the Boxwood Guide. Since publishing
our first guide in the summer of 2005, we have continued to update and
add information. This 5th Edition contains more research, descriptions,
and details than any of the preceding issues. We have updated nearly all
the photos to better show boxwood both in the landscape, as well as, how
to better care for them. In addition, we have given you our most up to
date information on diseases and pests affecting boxwood.
This book is the result of a journey that began over 70 years ago
when our dad, Paul, propagated his first boxwood with the help of our
grandmother. Tom, Bennett, Jim, and Robert along with countless other
employees want to thank you for taking the time and interest to read and
learn more about this fabulous plant that has been part of our family
since 1947. We hope the Boxwood Guide helps you better understand
and enjoy boxwood as much as we do.

The Saunders Brothers Family

BOXWOOD GUIDE
 BOXWOOD
G U I D E
Table of Contents
Planting and Site Selection
Drainage ....................................................... 5
Cultivar Selection ......................................... 6
Digging the Proper Hole .............................. 6
Soil Preparation ........................................... 7
Planting ........................................................ 7
Watering ....................................................... 7
Care
Fertilization and Liming .............................. 9
Pruning ......................................................... 9
Mulching ...................................................... 11
Irrigation ...................................................... 11
Transplanting ............................................... 13
Tilling and Cultivating ................................. 13
Winter and Cold Damage ............................. 14
Containers .................................................... 15
Propagation .................................................. 16
Pets and Boxwood Odor ............................... 16
Pests
Leafminer ..................................................... 17
Psyllid ........................................................... 19
Mites ............................................................. 20
Wildlife ......................................................... 20
Diseases
Phytophthora (root rot) ............................... 21
Volutella (stem blight) ................................. 22
Boxwood Decline .......................................... 23
Cylindrocladium (boxwood blight) .............. 24
Cultivars ............................................................ 33
Glossary of Terms .......................................... 90
Cultivar Summary ......................................... 94
Cultivar Comparison ..................................... 95

3
 BOXWOOD
T h e S a u n d e r s S to r y

Paul and Tatum Saunders

Paul and the Beginning
Boxwood have been part of the family tradition at Saunders Brothers
for nearly 100 years. Paul Saunders’ mother, Mildred, had a keen interest in
boxwood. Upon moving to what would become the family home in the late
1930’s, she began surrounding the home with boxwood. Many of those original
plants still stand today. In the late spring of 1947, Paul propagated his first
boxwood with the help of his mother and an inspiring science teacher. On a
sticky clay bank near the present office and container nursery, 25 of 77 cuttings
took root and a nursery was born.
The nursery slowly expanded to the fertile river bottoms. Then, in less than
five hours on August 20, 1969, Hurricane Camille dumped 20-25 inches of rain
on the mountains of Nelson County, Virginia. The devastation and loss of life
in the county were horrendous. The raging Tye River destroyed nearly 10 acres
of Saunders plants on the river bottom. Only a few boxwood planted on higher
ground survived. With this nucleus, the container nursery was established.
The nursery continued to grow through the 70’s and 80’s with a wide range
of plants being grown in unheated greenhouses. In the late 90’s, the demand
for more boxwood, both larger and more varieties, led Saunders Brothers to
start growing plants in the field again. The container and field operations now
grow not only boxwood but over a thousand other varieties of container plants
including annuals, flowering shrubs, evergreen and deciduous shrubs, container
trees, perennials, and roses. Boxwood, however, remain the signature plant and
are grown in both containers and the field.
Today more than ever gardeners are rediscovering boxwood, the backbone
of many landscapes and formal gardens for centuries. With increased deer

2 BOXWOOD GUIDE
browsing and changing weather patterns, deer resistance and drought tolerance

Today and Tomorrow

Saunders Brothers began learning about boxwood over 70 years ago and that

time, we have become a leading authority in the United States, as well as abroad,
on boxwood production, care, varieties, and research. This knowledge has come
from growing boxwood for many years, as well as proprietary research through

and research, and participation in the American Boxwood Society.

The National Boxwood Trials began in the late 1990’s when we realized
there was little information available comparing the performance of boxwood
in varying climates and geographic locales. Participants were supplied with and

garden. Data was reported to Saunders Brothers where it was compiled and
published. The last Trial data was published in 2011. Since its inception, 20
major botanical gardens, arboreta, and historical sites, 18 universities, colleges,
and research stations, as well as 20 individuals and nurseries participated in the
project. The test sites are located from Connecticut to Chicago, and then south
across the “boxwood belt” to Alabama and Georgia. The Trials also include
international contributors from the United Kingdom, Republic of Georgia, and
Ukraine. Analysis of this data helps identify the best in boxwood cultivars for

Inspecting leaves for leafminer research Dissecting leaves for leafminer

The Saunders Story 3

 Noticing the increased incidence
of boxwood leafminer over the past
10 to 15 years, as well as the desire
to reduce the use of pesticides,
Saunders Brothers began conducting
research on varietal resistance to
leafminer. Prior to 2008, we began
planting a test block solely dedicated
to leafminer research. Host boxwood
infected with leafminer were planted
alongside 100 cultivars of boxwood.
Since fall of 2008, we have collected
thousands of leaf samples from our
test area. Each leaf is dissected and
leafminer larvae are counted. This
data has helped us differentiate
cultivars based on leafminer
resistance and susceptibility. Our
ultimate goal is to develop or discover
boxwood that are naturally resistant
to leafminer thus reducing the use of
pesticides and increasing the value of
Studying boxwood blight boxwood.
Since boxwood blight first
appeared in the United States in 2011, Saunders Brothers has dedicated
enormous resources to understanding and fighting this disease. We have
supplied plants and funded research in multiple states that were conducting
both institutional as well as private trials. We have been featured as speakers
and panelists throughout the Mid-Atlantic on boxwood topics. We have traveled
domestically and internationally to better understand a disease that many once
thought would be the end of boxwood. We have met with researchers from state
and federal agencies and international groups both public and private. Through
a greater understanding of the disease, we believe the battle with boxwood blight
will be won with tolerant varieties.
The American Boxwood Society (ABS) was founded in 1961 with the
purpose of creating appreciation, scientific understanding, and propagation of
boxwood. Saunders Brothers plays an active role in the ABS, both planning and
participating in board activities, conferences, seminars, and educational tours.
Through years of our own production, research, and collaboration with
individuals, universities, private researchers, arboreta, and the ABS, we have
studied and analyzed information that is changing the world of boxwood on a
daily basis. Boxwood are now stronger than ever and are standing the test of
time.

4 BOXWOOD GUIDE
 BOXWOOD
Planting and Site
Selection
Boxwood are easy to maintain when properly planted and cared for. We
suggest the following recommendations to increase your enjoyment of this
timeless plant.

• Check and test the soil. Avoid areas with poor drainage.
• Choose the proper cultivar based on ultimate size and shape,
growth rate, maintenance requirements, and sun exposure.
• Prepare the area to be planted and dig the hole.
• Plant the boxwood high, two inches or so of the root ball should be
above the soil surface.
• Water thoroughly at time of planting.
• Fall is a great time to plant so roots can take advantage of fall,
winter, and spring precipitation before summer droughts.

Proper planting is crucial to the longevity and health of boxwood. Take the
steps outlined below to ensure planting success.

Drainage
Consider drainage before selecting a site or planting a boxwood. When
choosing a site, avoid areas with standing water, or outlets for gutter or other
drains, or areas where soils tend to stay moist or wet year round. Dig a one foot

Planting and Site Selection 5

deep hole and examine soil and see how it compares to other areas in the same
landscape. Some cultivars are more tolerant of areas with questionable drainage;
however, all boxwood will perform better in areas when the plant is elevated and
drainage is addressed. Poor drainage is one of the leading causes of problems in
boxwood.

Cultivar Selection
Take care to select the proper cultivar of boxwood. Consider the ultimate
desired size, shape, and growth rate. Remember to anticipate maintenance
requirements, the climate, and the sun exposure of the site. Consider the timing
and intensity of sun in the area to be planted. All boxwood will do well in shady
areas, while some of those same cultivars will also do well in part-sun or sunny
locations. Sunny locations are those areas with bright sun from late morning to
late afternoon. Part-sun locations are shaded from late morning to late afternoon
but may receive direct sun early or late in the day. Shady locations typically
receive little or no direct sun. Generally speaking, all boxwood prefer some
afternoon shade. Some cultivars of boxwood will bronze in winter more than
others. To lessen winter bronzing, avoid direct afternoon sun. Please refer to
each cultivar for recommendations with regard to exposure and winter bronzing
due to sun exposure.

Digging the Proper Hole

Dig the hole twice (or more) as wide as the root ball. Dig the hole so that
about 2 inches or so of the root ball is above the original soil surface and the
base of the rootball is sitting on the undisturbed soil. Planting the boxwood
high helps to ensure proper drainage. If the soil is highly compacted, take extra
steps to be sure the soil drains properly and water moves easily through the soil.
Never plant boxwood level with the soil surface. Take care when the soil has been
disturbed below the root ball to ensure that the plant remains elevated and does
not settle with time.

1” Layer of mulch

Rootball approximately 2”
above ground level

Backfill
(original soil &
≤20% amendments)

2x width of rootball

6 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Soil Preparation
Proper soil preparation is essential to ensure long term success with any
planting. Perform a soil test in advance of any bed preparation. Based on the
results of the soil test, modify the soil to achieve a pH in the range of 6.5 to 7.0.
Before planting in an existing bed or a new area, we recommend you renovate
as much area as possible. This will improve drainage, reduce compaction
issues, introduce new soil nutrients and organic matter, and encourage root
growth. Renovations of existing areas or new plantings should include removal
of unwanted existing plants and debris, the incorporation of soil amendments,
and soil mixing. Turn soil to a
minimum depth of 10-15 inches
and add amendments. Examples
of soil amendments can include
compost and aged poultry or
other manures to increase organic
matter and nutrients and limited
amounts of peat moss. Mix soil
and amendments thoroughly.
Newly-incorporated soils should
contain no more than 20%
amendments. The amended soil
should resemble the existing
soil in order to encourage root
growth beyond renovated areas.
If an excess of amendments and
new soil are added, the roots of
the plant will often not venture
beyond the new soil.

sempervirens topiary
Planting
Once you prepare the bed and dig the hole, place the plant in the hole
remembering to keep two inches or so of the root ball above the original soil
surface. Backfill the hole with the amended soil. Mound the soil up to the edges
of the root ball and lightly pack it to avoid leaving any air pockets. Do not place
soil on the base or trunk of the plant. Ensure that the plant remains elevated and
does not settle with time. Mulch the plant with no more than one inch of aged or
decomposing mulch. See page 11 for more information on mulching.

Watering
A thorough soaking at the time of planting is the most important watering
a boxwood will ever have. Be sure the entire root zone is thoroughly wetted.
Afterwards, periodic waterings on an as-needed basis are best. Allow the
root zone to dry before re-watering. It generally takes about 18 months for a
boxwood to acclimate to a new site. During this time, monitor the plant for
adequate moisture. We recommend approximately one inch of precipitation or
irrigation per week for the first 1-2 years, paying close attention during the hot
and dry summer months. Do not forget to water your boxwood in the winter.
Maintaining proper moisture during winter months lessens root damage in

Planting and Site Selection 7

severe cold and also aids good root growth in times when the ground is not
frozen. Boxwood in the Mid-Atlantic region will continue to grow roots through
the winter when temperatures are not extremely cold. Never allow the plant to
dry to the point of showing stress. When boxwood show stress due to lack of
moisture, they seldom recover completely. (See Irrigation on page 11 for more
information.)

‘Justin Brouwers’

insularis ‘Nana’

8 BOXWOOD GUIDE
 BOXWOOD
Care
Fertilization and Liming

• Use soil tests and maintain a pH of 6.5-7.0.

• Apply in late fall on top of the mulch.
• If fertilizer is needed, use a balanced fertilizer or aged manure.

Boxwood typically do not need a lot of fertilizer. Use soil tests to determine
fertilizer needs as well as the pH of your soil. Boxwood thrive when the pH of
a soil is between 6.5 and 7.0. A pH below 5.8 can cause problems in boxwood,
especially in Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’. The primary time to fertilize is
in late fall or early spring. Boxwood roots grow the most in late fall, winter, and
early spring, when soil temperatures are more moderate. Late summer and early
fall fertilization may cause a plant to initiate fall top growth that may be burned
with early frosts and freezes.
Always place the fertilizer near the drip line of the plant and never place it
under the mulch. Boxwood typically have feeder roots just under the soil surface,
so placing fertilizer directly on those roots can cause damage to the plant. When
our field plants are dug, we use a formulation of 12-5-9 to supplement the plant
until it’s installed. Do not use fertilizers formulated for acid-loving plants like
azaleas or rhododendrons as they tend to drive pH down. Based on the results of
our soil tests, Saunders Brothers has had good results using aged poultry manure
in low rates both at the time of planting and as needed thereafter.

Pruning

• Clean tools properly before and after pruning.

• Prune in late winter to early spring before spring flush and
while diseases are less active.
• Use pruning techniques that promote good air flow.
• Pruning techniques are different for each cultivar.

Proper pruning techniques are crucial to long-term success with boxwood.

Pruning techniques differ with each cultivar of boxwood. It is important to
choose the correct cultivar for the desired use and location to avoid the need for
excessive pruning.
Proper sanitation is important when pruning. Any tools should be properly
cleaned with alcohol, bleach, Lysol® or some other disinfecting solution before
and after working with boxwood to lessen the possibility of spreading disease.
The best time to prune boxwood is in the late winter to early spring, before
the plant breaks dormancy. This is typically late February to mid-March in
central Virginia. Late winter/early spring pruning minimizes the time between
pruning and new growth as well as stimulates a strong spring flush. It also is a
good time to prune as diseases like boxwood blight tend to be much less active
in cold temperatures. Some gardeners also like to prune in late spring, after the

Care 9
spring flush, to achieve a more manicured shape in formal gardens. Mid-summer
and early fall prunings stimulate late fall growth that may be burned by frost or
early winter freezes. Early winter pruning, while not detrimental, leaves pruning
scars on the leaves until the spring flush is initiated. Many gardeners choose
to thin or pluck ‘Suffruticosa’ (English boxwood) and sempervirens (American
boxwood) in late November and December in order to have boxwood greens for
holiday decorating. This is a very common practice and one that is helpful to
the plant. Once again, take care to clean tools when pruning to avoid spreading
diseases.
In general, any pruning that increases the airflow in a boxwood is
advantageous. Cultivars that are more dwarf or have very tight habits benefit
from annual thinning to increase air flow and sunlight penetration into the
interior of the plant. Thinning is typically done by reaching into the plant and
breaking or cutting out branches with hand pruners. These branches can be 6-10
inches long on larger cultivars, or only a couple of inches on a dwarf cultivar.
This will leave pockets or holes in the plant for air and sunlight penetration.
Using hand pruners will result in a cleaner cut and lessens the possibilities
of disease introduction. Not all cultivars require annual thinning, however
those that benefit the most from thinning are noted in the cultivar section of
this Boxwood Guide. Any cultivars that are sheared regularly will benefit from
thinning to lessen disease susceptibility.
Larger and more vigorous cultivars are generally tolerant to shearing or more
radical pruning techniques. Use loppers or shears to drastically reduce overall
plant size on vigorous plants, taking care to leave one-half to two-thirds of the
foliage undisturbed. This foliage will produce energy the plant needs to recover.
The plant should develop new foliage along the bare stems. Full recovery may
take several seasons. Plants that require more drastic pruning may need to be
pruned over several years to reduce the overall size in steps and not jeopardize
the plant’s health. If a Buxus ‘Suffruticosa’ (English) overgrows its intended
space, use loppers and ensure clean cuts on larger branches. You should never
use shears on Buxus ‘Suffruticosa’ (English Boxwood). Using shears increases
the density of the canopy of the plant long-term as well as shatters brittle limbs
thus increasing the chance of disease. To minimize radical pruning, do not select
large cultivars
for applications
where small
cultivars would
be more suitable.
See specific notes
in the cultivar
section of the
Boxwood Guide
on boxwood
pruning and
plant size.

‘Green Beauty’ flushing after late winter pruning

10 BOXWOOD GUIDE
 Boxwood will occasionally send up
a branch of foliage that is different from
the rest of the plant; this is known as a
“sport.” This is most obvious in some
of the dwarf cultivars including ‘Green
Pillow’, ‘Grace H. Phillips’, ‘Morris
Dwarf’, and ‘Morris Midget’. Remove the
sport by cutting into the plant below the
point where the sport appeared. Sports
on plants do not hurt the plant, but
they can be unsightly. Some boxwood
enthusiasts will propagate sports in
hopes of finding a new desirable cultivar.
Sport on a boxwood
Mulching

• Retards weed growth and reduces erosion.

• Retains soil moisture and creates organic matter.
• Moderates soil temperature.
• Lessens diseases including boxwood blight.

Mulching at time of planting and periodically thereafter is beneficial in many

ways. Mulch retards weed growth, reduces erosion, helps retain moisture at
time of planting and later in dry periods, and decomposes to create additional
beneficial organic matter. Also, mulch moderates soil temperature by acting as
a layer of insulation between the air and soil in times of extreme heat and cold.
Mulch also lessens the incidence of some diseases including boxwood blight by
reducing the amount of water splash.
Maintain about one inch of mulch around a plant but never place mulch
on the trunk of the boxwood. Re-mulch as needed every two years or so. Be
sure mulch is aged or decomposing. Shredded hardwood mulch works well; in
addition, composted leaves, pine needles, and pine bark also make good mulches.
These types of mulches are beneficial because with time they decompose and
create organic matter. Take care not to use ‘green’ or un-aged mulch like wood
chips as it requires extra nitrogen to begin breaking down and plants will often
suffer due to the mulch using the available nitrogen thus depriving the plant.
Too much mulch can pull nitrogen from the soil particularly if the mulch is not
properly aged.

Irrigation

• Boxwood are drought tolerant once established.

• Initial watering at the time of planting is very important.
• Monitor moisture and irrigate plants for first year during
droughts and hot summer months.
• Irrigate established boxwood deeply and thoroughly in times of
severe drought.
• Drip irrigation is best. Avoid systems that repeatedly wet foliage.
• Overwatering causes problems.

Care 11
 Boxwood are drought tolerant once established. The best irrigation
systems are designed to water boxwood only until they are established and then
occasionally only in times of severe drought. Once established, boxwood need
minimal irrigation. Too much water is often more harmful than not enough
water. Avoid watering daily and using methods of irrigation that keep the foliage
wet for long
periods of time.
Daily waterings
do not encourage
deep and strong
root growth that
is necessary
for long-
term survival
especially in
times of severe
drought.
Newly
planted plants
must be watered
thoroughly
at time of
installation.
Then, they
should receive
Field production with drip irrigation deep waterings
about once a week for the first 3-6 months. Then for the next year or so, new
boxwood should receive approximately one inch of precipitation or irrigation
per week paying most attention to hot summer months or times of drought. The
first year to year-and-a-half after planting are the most critical for irrigation.
Typically, boxwood need little supplemental irrigation October through April.
Always monitor soil moisture before irrigating. Boxwood will do best when they
are watered thoroughly by wetting the root zone to a depth of 12 to 18 inches.
The root zone should then be allowed to dry before the next application of water
which encourages stronger root systems, as plants are forced to send roots in
search of water. Timing of subsequent waterings will be dependent on natural
precipitation, weather, and soil conditions. Avoid allowing the plant to dry to
the point of showing stress as they may have difficulty recovering. Established
plantings over 18 months old require supplemental water only in times of
extreme drought.
Simple drip irrigation systems, installed just under the mulch, work well
for boxwood. They allow for slow application of water through the root zone
area. Lawn irrigation systems should be designed and maintained to avoid daily
application of water onto the foliage of boxwood. Continual wet foliage on a
boxwood creates a possibility for disease introduction.
In periods of extreme cold, it is especially important to be sure newly planted
or transplanted boxwood are thoroughly watered prior to the ground freezing.
Filling the air space around the root system with water helps to insulate the plant.
Avoid over-watering boxwood. Some cultivars, especially Buxus
sempervirens (American), ‘Suffruticosa’ (English), ‘Jensen’, ‘Elegantissima’,

12 BOXWOOD GUIDE
‘Vardar Valley’, ‘Justin Brouwers’, and other sempervirens cultivars, as well
as the harlandii cultivars, are especially susceptible to root rot resulting from
continuously wet or soggy soil conditions or poorly-drained soils. Remember,
roots need air as well as water.

Transplanting

• Fall is the optimal time to transplant.

• Root ball should be dug 2 to 3 times wider than deep.
• Monitor moisture carefully for 12-18 months.

Boxwood can be transplanted from one location to another. Care should

be taken when transplanting boxwood. You should consider proper timing and
procedures.
The best time to transplant boxwood in central Virginia is early September
through mid-November. In your area, choose a time in the fall when summer
heat has begun to subside and more frequent rain has begun. However, avoid
waiting until severe cold sets in. Some gardeners have success transplanting
during mild winters. Proper timing will allow for maximum root growth when
moisture is typically more abundant and in turn better prepares the plant for dry
seasons, especially summers. The root ball should be dug as wide as the canopy
of the plant (at a minimum). The root ball size will vary but a rule of thumb
should be for every 2-3 feet in width, the depth should be 1 to 1 ½ feet. Boxwood
have shallow roots thus more focus should be on root ball width than depth. Do
not leave the boxwood above ground for a long period of time especially in times
of extreme heat or cold and do not allow the root ball to dry out. Never move
boxwood during the stress of summer heat or severe drought. Many gardeners
have greater success when they heavily water the plant they are moving prior to
any digging to lessen the stress on the plant. Immediately after transplanting,
water thoroughly and continue to monitor moisture for 18 months or so until
the plant is re-established (see planting on page 5). Never allow the plant to dry
to the point of showing stress. Once drought-stressed, boxwood seldom recover
completely.

Tilling and Cultivating Near Boxwood

Avoid repeated cultivating or tilling near the roots of boxwood. Boxwood
roots are shallow and widely spread. Cultivating near the drip line of the
plant has shown to create problems in boxwood. This is especially evident
when boxwood are used as edging in a bed. For example, if one side of the
plant is restricted in horizontal root growth by a “hard edge” like a sidewalk or
manufactured edging, and the opposite side is tilled 1-2 times a year for planting
annuals, severing the roots repeatedly will cause long term problems and
potentially kill the plant.
If you need to cultivate where there is a “hard edge” on one side of a
boxwood planting, stay about one foot from the drip line of the plant. When the
side opposite of cultivation is not restricting horizontal root growth, you may
cultivate slightly closer.

Care 13
Winter and Cold Damage

• Avoid summer and early fall fertilization and pruning.

• Before extreme cold, water newly planted boxwood before soil
freezes.
• Full sun exposures increase likelihood of bronzing.
• Snow should be allowed to melt naturally or very carefully
removed.
• Spring frosts can occasionally burn new growth, however; in
most cases, new buds will quickly develop and cover any
damaged foliage.

Boxwood can be damaged by late fall freezes, extreme winter cold or late
spring freezes. Damage can range from a few bronzed or desiccated leaves, to
broken and dead plants.
There are several ways to lessen late fall freeze damage. Avoid summer and
early fall applications of fertilizer that could induce a late fall push of growth
that could be burned. Also avoid late
summer prunings which can induce
fall flushes that are typically tender
and easily burned. If a fall frost or
freeze damages any foliage, wait until
after the first or second hard freeze of
winter to prune off unsightly branch
tips. Pruning too quickly after the
first frost can encourage a new flush
of growth if the frost is followed by a
warm spell. Otherwise, wait until late
winter or early spring to prune. (See
Pruning on page 9). Additionally,
we have seen bark splitting near the
ground level of some boxwood. This
typically happens to boxwood that
Freeze damage
have bare trunks and are exposed to
the southwestern sun. Bark splitting is most common in Buxus ‘Suffruticosa’
(English) and young (less than three year old) plants.
To minimize root damage due to extreme winter cold, newly planted
boxwood should be deeply watered before the soil freezes. Filling the air space
around the root system with water helps to insulate the plant. Boxwood in
containers are especially at risk to winter root damage when they are not well
watered.
Foliage bronzing in the winter can be attributed to sun exposure and cultivar
selection. Direct sun in the winter (especially from the southwest) will tend to
bronze some cultivars more than others. Bronzed leaves typically begin greening
up in the spring as temperatures begin to rise and as new foliage covers them.
Intense sun on shade-loving cultivars will cause bronzing that does not recover
quickly in spring and can cause long-term problems. If you want to minimize
bronzing, take care to avoid sunny southwest exposures and consider your
varietal selection. Good choices include ‘Green Beauty’, ‘Jim Stauffer’, ‘Dee
Runk’, ‘Vardar Valley’, ‘Fastigiata’, ‘Justin Brouwers’, sempervirens (American),

14 BOXWOOD GUIDE
and ‘Little Missy’. Cultivars like ‘Wintergreen’ and the “Green Series” (‘Green
Velvet’, ‘Green Mountain’, ‘Green Mound’, ‘Green Gem’), as well as some of the
dwarf cultivars of boxwood tend to bronze in winter sun. Refer to the cultivar
section of the Boxwood Guide for more information.
In snowy conditions, it is best
to leave the plants alone and let the
snow melt on its own. However, in
extreme cases when there is chance
of breakage, gradually remove the
snow by gently brushing the limbs.
Remember: if the branches are frozen,
beating them or any quick movement
of the branch will cause damage to
the limb or bark and will encourage
the introduction of disease. Some of
the microphylla cultivars are more
rigid and will hold snow with minimal
to no damage. In heavy ice storms,
Winter bronzing leave the ice on the plants to melt
naturally. Diseases will often wait
until conducive conditions of summer (warm and wet) to invade the damaged
plants. The diseases can take six months to a year or more to become evident.
Occasionally in late spring after new growth has begun to emerge, an early
morning frost will damage the new growth on a boxwood. Pruning off affected
foliage is not necessary as the plant will typically regenerate on its own. In most
cases, a secondary flush can be seen in several weeks and will quickly cover any
burned foliage.
Most of the boxwood listed within this Boxwood Guide are hardy to zone
5 or 6, however there are some that are listed as zone 7. Refer to the individual
cultivars for specific hardiness information.

Boxwood in Containers
Boxwood are an excellent choice for use in a container. Cultivars that are
suitable for containers are listed in the cultivar section of the Boxwood Guide
under Uses. When planting in a container, take care to select a container that is
larger than the root ball of your chosen plant. If you allow space for the roots to
grow, the boxwood will have a longer life in the container. Use a potting media to
fill around the root ball. Be sure the container has drainage holes in the bottom.
After several years it may be necessary to remove the plant from the pot to
re-invigorate it. Cut and loosen the roots, and replace much of the soil in order
to stimulate new root growth on the plant before placing it in the same or a
larger container. When the root growth is limited, a plant typically will begin to
deteriorate. Fertilize lightly annually or biannually with well-balanced fertilizer
that does not drive down the soil pH (See Fertilization page 9).
Although boxwood are more drought-tolerant than many plants, be sure
to provide adequate water throughout the entire year, including the winter. In
winter it is very important that the plant is well watered before extreme cold
spells. Filling the air space in the root system with water helps to insulate the
plant. In summer, water about once a week. Regularly monitor water and keep
roots moist but not wet.

Care 15
Boxwood Propagation
Boxwood is an easy plant to propagate. Propagation procedures differ with
every nursery and gardener. Typical cutting propagation occurs in late June
(after the spring flush has had time to harden off) through mid-September. Do
not propagate too late into the fall or winter, unless artificial bottom heat is
available, as the cuttings need soil temperatures in the low 70’s to begin rooting.
Make cuttings 4-6 inches long and remove one-third to one-half of the foliage.
Apply a rooting hormone to the bottom one-third of the cutting before sticking it
in the rooting bed or cell.
Rooting media is typically a combination of sand and peat moss. Cuttings
should be shaded from any direct sun until well rooted. Keep the foliage
moderately moist until roots develop to increase rooting success. Do not attempt
to propagate boxwood from late March through early June as the energy of the
plant is being directed into producing new top growth.

Boxwood propagation cuttings Boxwood propagation at Saunders

Many gardeners use layering to propagate boxwood. The natural weight of

limbs or snow can push a branch down until it touches the ground. The portion
touching the ground will likely root into the soil. After several months of warm
temperatures, the branch can be cut from the parent plant and moved. Other
gardeners, typically in the spring, will bend a side branch of a plant down to the
soil and lay a brick or rock on top of it. In the fall or the following spring, the
plant can be cut from the parent plant and planted elsewhere.

Pets and Boxwood Odor

Dog and cat urine will kill boxwood branches. Buxus sempervirens cultivars
tend to be the favorite targets of them.
Some boxwood cultivars exhibit a very strong odor in early summer when
the sun shines directly on them, especially when the humidity is high. Buxus
sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’ or English Boxwood is the most aromatic. Some
people believe this might be what attracts pets. Some gardeners relish the aroma
of boxwood and others have likened the smell to that of cat urine. Fortunately
for some and unfortunately for others, this is the odor of boxwood and it is more
intense with some cultivars than others and cannot be controlled. If the odor
or aroma of boxwood is not your favorite, then shy away from sempervirens
cultivars. Microphylla and insularis cultivars will be less fragrant.

16 BOXWOOD GUIDE
 BOXWOOD
Pests
In this section we will discuss the three primary pests of boxwood: leafminer,
psyllid, and mites. All are controllable. Below we list information on these pests
including cultivar susceptibility as well as control options.

Boxwood Leafminer

• One life cycle per year makes control relatively easy.

• For minor infestations, try pruning off pest-infested foliage in
early spring.
• Contact insecticides targeting adult pests can be used during
hatch but are seldom effective.
• Systemic insecticides are most effective.
• Select cultivars that are more resistant to leafminer.

The primary boxwood pest is the boxwood leafminer. For many years
boxwood leafminer has been primarily concentrated in the Mid-Atlantic, however
over the past decade it has become more widespread into the Northeast and
Midwest. Over the period of several years, a lightly-infested plant can become
discolored, yellowish-brown, and even defoliated. We have seen severe leafminer
populations kill boxwood. The good news about boxwood leafminer is that there
are effective control options and those options are simplified because there is
only one generation of the pest per year.

Late summer boxwood leafminer infestation

Adult leafminer emerge over a two to three week period (depending on

temperature) typically in late April to early May. To the naked eye, the adult
leafminer appears to be a tan or orange mosquito. The adults who live only a
week or two are very weak flyers and generally hover within inches of a boxwood
after hatching because any wind will blow them away. The adults mate and

Pests 17
the female lays eggs in the tender new growth of the boxwood. The eggs hatch
sometime in early summer, around mid to late June in central Virginia. The
larvae begin a 9-10 month cycle during which they feed and live inside the leaf,
causing it to blister. The blistering is most evident in winter to early spring of
the following year. Depending on the degree of infestation, a leaf can contain as
many as 10 or more larvae. In spring, the larvae turn into pupae, and around late
April the flying adults emerge and begin a new cycle.
Saunders Brothers has done extensive work trying to determine the best
means for control of boxwood leafminer. For minor infestations, some gardeners
choose to prune off infected foliage in early spring before the adults emerge.
This reduces the population of the pest but offers limited results in heavy
infestations as populations can explode from unpruned foliage that is populated
with leafminer. Chemical controls seem to be the best protection for boxwood
leafminer. We have found it difficult to time a chemical application to kill
leafminer adults. As discussed earlier, the life cycle is short, perhaps only a few
days in some cases. Since you would have to spray every 2 or 3 days over a two
week or more period, we think this control strategy is futile.
The most effective control of leafminer are systemic insecticides applied
just after the eggs hatch around mid to late June in central Virginia. Since
the larvae are alive,
eating, and growing
during the summer
and fall, we have found
systemic insecticides
to be effective until
temperatures turn cold,
which in some years is
not until late October
or early November.
When these chemicals
are applied properly
and thoroughly to all
boxwood in a given area,
Leafminer larvae and blisters in spring you can receive control
for up to 2-3 years
because you eradicate nearly the entire population and it takes several years for a
population to rise back up to noticeable levels.
Saunders Brothers has had very good success controlling leafminer with
products that contain the active ingredient imidacloprid, thiomethoxam, or
dinotefuran. However, we can relate only our experiences. Saunders Brothers
is very aware of a great deal of ongoing discussion regarding these and other
chemicals and their possible effect on pollinators. Please note, we are following
science and alternative methods to control these pests in order to further
eliminate our use of this group of pesticides. We seek to minimize our use of any
pesticide by practicing Integrated Pest Management or IPM. Our goal, as well
as that of IPM, is that any practice we use will minimize negative impacts on
pollinators, the environment, and our employees. We advise any nurseryman,
landscaper, or gardener to contact a local full-service garden center or Extension
personnel for recommendations. As with any pesticide, read and follow the label.
The best strategy to minimize leafminer populations is to use resistant

18 BOXWOOD GUIDE
varieties. We have researched more than 150 cultivars over the years and have
found moderate to good resistance in some cultivars. We continue to research
new varieties and attempt to understand why some cultivars are more susceptible
than others. Based on tests at Saunders Brothers, relative susceptibilities
of cultivars listed in this Boxwood Guide are listed on page 94 as well as on
individual cultivar pages.
Astute gardeners should take into account many factors when choosing a
boxwood cultivar. The cultivar’s susceptibility to leafminer should be considered
if the landscape or neighboring landscapes have high populations of leafminer or
if they desire to minimize control measures.

Boxwood Psyllid

• Minor damage is aesthetic; heavy infestations can be treated.

• For light infestations, do nothing or prune out damaged tips before
adults develop.
• Use insecticidal soaps and horticultural oil in late April and May to
control nymphs.
• Consult Extension or your full-service garden center for other
chemical controls.

Boxwood psyllid occur wherever boxwood are found. There is only one life
cycle per year and the nymph emerges in mid-April or as new growth starts. Leaf
damage is mostly superficial and not
detrimental to the plant.
The nymph lives for about two months
chewing on the new foliage, resulting in
the upward cupping of the leaves. The
cupping of the leaf protects the feeding
psyllid. A sticky white deposit is often
left on the foliage by the psyllid. Minor
damage is mainly aesthetic but heavy
infestations can eventually cause some
defoliation. Typically in June, the winged
adult emerges. It is very small (less than
an 1/8 inch) and looks much like a tiny
cicada. After mating, the adult female flies
over the canopy of the plant and then lays
her eggs under the bud scales of the plant.
Psyllid damage on English boxwood The eggs remain there until the following
spring when they hatch as new growth emerges.
Control measures, if desired, vary based on severity of infestation. For minor
infestations, do nothing or prune off affected foliage within a month or so of the
new growth emerging. This will eliminate the nymphs before they mature into
adults and lay new eggs. Another control measure is the use of horticultural
oil or insecticidal soap in late April or early May as new growth is emerging.
Timing is important. If too early, the scales of the boxwood protect the egg, and
if too late the cupped leaves protect the nymph. Insecticides are available for
severe infestations and as always, consult your local full-service garden center
or Extension personnel for recommendations. Once the psyllid has cupped the

Pests 19
leaf, the pest may be controlled, but damage to the leaf cannot be corrected. In
our experience, boxwood leafminer insecticides applied every 2-3 years have the
added effect of eliminating psyllid populations.

Mites

• Damage in most cases is only aesthetic and can be overlooked.

• For minor infestations, try washing them off with a fast stream of
water.
• For greater infestations, control by applying horticultural oil or other
insecticides in summer.

The boxwood mite is actually a spider mite. It is very small and difficult
to see with the naked eye or a hand lens. Gently hitting a branch over a piece
of white paper will often allow you to see the mites when they fall onto the
paper. Mite damaged leaves typically appear to have tiny white spots and marks
on them. Damage is often superficial but can become a problem if the mite
population becomes too great.

Mite damage

Mites generally begin hatching in late April to May and become most active
in hot, dry summers. A typical mite has a life span of 2 to 3 weeks, thus in hot,
dry summers there are many generations of this pest.
Control measures include washing off the mites with a fast water stream,
natural predators, and the use of horticultural oils and other chemicals.
Consult your local full-service garden center or Extension personnel for
recommendations. Unfortunately, some of the insecticides used for control
of boxwood leafminer seem to cause an increase in mite populations as they
presumably kill predators of the mites. There appear to be some cultivars that
are more resistant than others to boxwood mites. Microphylla cultivars seem
to be more resistant, while some Buxus sempervirens cultivars seem to be more
susceptible.

Wildlife
Boxwood are deer-resistant. Very few cases of deer browsing have ever been
reported to Saunders Brothers.

20 BOXWOOD GUIDE
 BOXWOOD
Diseases
Boxwood tend to be very disease resistant. In most instances, proper
planting techniques, site selection, maintenance, and smart gardening will
lessen disease occurrence and severity. There are several diseases that may
infect boxwood. In the Boxwood Guide we will discuss four of the most
common: Phytophthora (root rot), Volutella (stem blight), boxwood decline, and
Cylindrocladium buxicola (boxwood blight).

Phytophthora (root rot)

• Purchase healthy plants from reputable suppliers.

• Avoid planting in poorly drained or wet soils.
• Plant properly to ensure good drainage. See page 5.
• If root rot is suspected, correct drainage and elevate or move the
plant.

Phytophthora, a fungus,
is commonly called root rot. It
is a disease that is found most
commonly in heavy, poorly
drained soils. It weakens the
plant and will eventually kill
it. Usually the first indication
is that it appears the plant has
stopped growing. The foliage
turns to light green, then to
brown, and finally to a straw
color. This progression can
take several months to a year
or longer. Phytophthora will
often selectively kill a branch
or a section of the plant at
a time. When a plant with
Phytophthora is dug up, the
ends of roots will pull off much
like pulling the sheath off a
knife. Roots will be brown
instead of a healthy white or
tan color.
Phytophthora in sempervirens Phytophthora is difficult
to treat once it is visibly
present. The best method of control is to avoid the disease by using good
gardening practices. Remember, healthy new plants will stand a better chance of
fighting off the disease than older, weaker plants.
When cultivars struggle with drainage and possible early stages of

Diseases 21
Phytophthora, their foliage will begin to take on a yellowish or lime-colored tint.
If the drainage issues are addressed quickly or the plant is moved or elevated, it
can sometimes fight off the disease and return to a healthy green color.
Some cultivars appear to be less sensitive to Phytophthora including many
of the microphylla cultivars. Many of the sempervirens cultivars tend to be more
susceptible. ‘Vardar Valley’, ‘Jensen’, sempervirens (American), ‘Suffruticosa’
(English), ‘Elegantissima’, and ‘Justin Brouwers’ as well as the harlandii cultivars
are more susceptible when planted in poorly drained soils.

Volutella buxi (stem blight)

• Stress, poor conditions, or injury make boxwood more susceptible.

• Avoid overhead irrigation or watering.
• Prune to promote good air movement throughout the plant.
• If volutella is suspected, remove diseased limbs by pruning them out
below infected area.
• Clean pruners regularly.
• Apply fungicides as needed.

Volutella is often a secondary infection after something has weakened or

injured a plant. It is most prominent in times of high humidity and poor air
movement. Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’ (English) is prone to get Volutella
due to its very dense habit.
Volutella is a fungus characterized by foliage that will turn bronze, then red,
then yellow. Damage looks very similar to winter burn but the plant will not
recover with spring flush of growth. Cankers will form on the branch, and the
bark will typically break and fall or peel off the stem. In wet periods you may
even see pink spores along infected areas. Volutella normally affects one limb at
a time.
Because Volutella is most often considered a secondary problem, Saunders
Brothers feels the best control is to minimize the primary problems of stress,
injury, disease, and other damage. Avoiding conditions that are conducive
to Volutella is the best means to control it. Boxwood are more susceptible
to Volutella when they are under stress, in poor environmental conditions,
or suffering from winter injury. Avoid overhead irrigation, maintain proper
drainage, and thin plants to maximize air movement within the plant. Volutella
often invades plants that have had winter damage such as heavy snow loads
that have injured the bark. Sometimes Volutella may take a summer or two to
invade a damaged plant as it awaits optimum conditions of warm temperatures,
high humidity or moisture, and low air movement. Also, Volutella often follows
boxwood blight and can mask its symptoms; again, it is typically secondary after
blight has damaged the plant.
When Volutella is present, prune infected limbs several inches below cankers
or broken bark. There are some fungicides available on the market to apply,
but as mentioned above, proper care and culture are the best way to avoid the
disease.

22 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Boxwood Decline

• Only affects English boxwood (‘Suffruticosa’).

• Result of stress due to some sort of change in environment or culture.
• Long and slow decline with eventual death or unsightliness.
• Do not replant English or ‘Jensen’ in places where boxwood decline
is suspected.
• Most evident in English in south and west, full sun exposures.

Boxwood decline only affects Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’ or English

boxwood. Some believe boxwood decline is a single disease, while others believe
it is the result of many negative factors that descend on and eventually kill a
boxwood. Saunders Brothers believes it is most likely the result of stress(es) that
weaken a plant. Then, other diseases and stresses result in a declining boxwood
and eventually kill the plant. Some people mistakenly call boxwood decline
‘blight’, however it should not be confused with Cylindrocladium buxicola
(boxwood blight) that is discussed below. Boxwood decline is a slow killer while
boxwood blight acts very rapidly when conditions are favorable.
Again, boxwood decline is a slow killer of only English boxwood. Over a
period of months or a year, the gardener will see a single limb or group of limbs
on an English boxwood turn from dark green to a lighter green, then to a light
brown and finally the foliage will fall off. The limb can and should be removed.
Then likely weeks, months, or even a year later additional sections of the plant
will be affected. Over time, sometimes years, of removing multiple sections, the

Boxwood decline in English boxwood

plant will look undesireable and will need to be removed in its entirety. It is
very typical to see a row of English boxwood where boxwood decline is affecting
random plants, not consecutive ones.

Diseases 23
 Stresses that can bring on boxwood decline include: losing or removing a
large tree that has shaded a plant for many years and suddenly the plant is in full
sun, heavy snow that has caused visible and non-visible damage, severe drought,
changes in surface or subsurface drainage that create excessive soil moisture,
change of soil pH below 6.0, and other factors. In addition, the build up over
time of soil nematodes weaken English boxwood. Once the plant is stressed, a
multitude of things attack the plant.
There is no cure for boxwood decline. We believe the focus should be on
avoiding the disease by reducing the stresses on the plant. To reduce the stresses
that lead to boxwood decline, maintain high shade in south and west exposures,
maintain mulch around the plant, monitor pH and keep it in the 6.5 to 7.0 range,
and supply supplemental water during times of extreme drought. Remember
watering should be deep, thorough, periodic, and applied directly to the soil and
not to foliage.
When boxwood decline has decimated a plant and you are forced to remove
it, do not replace it with another English or ‘Jensen’ boxwood. We have rarely
seen success. However, we have seen very good results when English are
replaced with other cultivars like ‘Green Beauty’, ‘Winter Gem’, ‘Jim Stauffer’,
and other microphylla cultivars. As rule of thumb, we seldom recommend
replanting with English boxwood in an garden where English have been in the
past, even when they have been removed for reasons outside of boxwood decline.
Unfortunately, English boxwood is becoming a plant of the past due to its disease
susceptibility.

Cylindrocladium buxicola (boxwood blight)

Understanding Boxwood Blight

• Found in Europe in 1990’s. Introduced into U.S. in 2011.

• Only affects plants in the Buxaceae family including Buxus
(boxwood), Sarcococca (sweet box), and Pachysandra (spurge).
• Spores are heavy and sticky and are moved on plants or by people,
equipment, and splashing water.
• Fungus appears as brown or black spots on foliage with yellow or
brown rings.
• After defoliation, infected areas usually have black streaks in the
stem.
• Fungus is fast moving in wet and mild temperatures (65-75° F is
ideal).
• In prolonged dry, hot, or cold weather, the fungus goes dormant
only to reappear in wet, mild temperatures.
• Fungus can survive for years in infected debris either on the plant or
in the soil.
• Once in the landscape, the fungus can be surpressed but not
eliminated.
• Current chemical options can kill active spores but not the disease.
• The best control measure is to plant tolerant cultivars.

24 BOXWOOD GUIDE
 The disease, boxwood blight or box blight, is caused by the fungal pathogen
Cylindrocladium buxicola (syn. Calonectria pseudonaviculata). This disease
only affects plants in the Buxacea family which includes Buxus (boxwood),
Sarcococca (sweetbox) and Pachysandra (spurge). Boxwood blight was found
in Europe in the late 1990’s and officially documented in the United States in the
fall of 2011. It is unknown how the pathogen was introduced to the US but it was
likely on infected plant material.

Boxwood blight lesions on foliage Defoliation caused by boxwood blight

Understanding boxwood blight is a high priority among research facilities

in both Europe and the United States. There is research exploring many facets
including tolerant cultivar breeding, chemicals to manage and eliminate the
disease, and control and management practices for production as well as in the
landscape. Boxwood blight is a fungus that attacks the foliage of boxwood. It
first appears as black or dark brown spots on foliage. In a few days, those spots
will develop yellow to brown rings around them and cover the leaf. Infected
leaves fall off the plant in a matter of a week or so. Stems near infected leaves will
develop streaked black stem lesions or cankers.
The boxwood blight spore is heavy and sticky. Unlike most fungi it is not
spread by wind with the exception of a driving rain. It is typically introduced to
a plant by contact with infected plants and debris, tools and equipment, clothing,
animals, water splash, or other means of direct contact.

Optimal Conditions for Boxwood Blight

• Fungus must be present.

• Continual wet foliage from irrigation, rain, or high humidity.
• Temperatures of 60-80° F (Ideal range of 70-75° F).
• Little air movement.

Boxwood blight is most prominent in times when foliage is continually wet

from constant irrigation, prolonged rain, or high humidity, and temperature 60°
to 80° F. If the fungus is introduced in non-optimal conditions (extreme cold or
heat, dry foliage), the disease struggles to become established. However, when
optimal conditions exist and the fungus is present, it can and will move quickly
if the host plant is susceptible. When conducive conditions subside, the fungus

Diseases 25
 will go dormant in the
form of microsclerotia
or black streaks in the
limbs of affected plants
or debris. They can
reside in stems of the
plant or in debris in
the soil. The fungus
can then lie inactive for
long periods of time
(five years or more)
and reappear when
conditions become
conducive again.
English boxwood with severe boxwood blight

Prevention and Control of Boxwood Blight

• Educate yourself and others who garden.

• Purchase boxwood from educated and prepared suppliers.
• Use landscapers and lawn care companies who are aware of and
educated about the disease and use practices to prevent introducing
or spreading the disease.
• Clean tools and equipment regularly, and launder clothes daily.
• Lessen or eliminate sharing of tools across other landscapes.
• Prune and plant boxwood to promote good airflow in and around
the plant.
• Avoid overhead irrigation. Dry foliage is important.
• Choose cultivars carefully based on desired size and tolerance to
boxwood blight.
• Mulch to lessen water splash. See Mulching on page 11.

Like most diseases boxwood are subject to, boxwood blight is best
avoided with good cultural and care practices. Educate yourself and other
gardeners about the disease and know how to identify it. There is a great deal
of information available on the internet and other publications on the disease.
Understand how to minimize the disease’s movement within the landscape,
as it can be present and not yet known. You should purchase healthy plants
from reputable suppliers who are aware of the disease and are taking steps
to avoid and control the movement of it. Many states now have boxwood
blight compliance agreements that nurseries can or must participate in. We
recommend that you have discussions with anyone who helps maintain a
landscape including those who mow lawns. Are they aware of the disease and
are they taking steps to lessen the movement of boxwood blight in the event they
are exposed to it? Have they been in multiple other landscapes before coming to
your garden?
Anyone working in and around boxwood should wear freshly laundered
clothes. Hot water from laundering will kill the spores. Properly clean tools
and equipment with disinfecting agents like alcohol, bleach, and other products
before and after use in boxwood.

26 BOXWOOD GUIDE
 Avoid overhead irrigation when possible, since dry foliage is less likely to
become infected if the spores are introduced. In addition, the disease is slower to
spread when foliage is kept dry. Plant and prune boxwood to maintain good air
flow in and around them. This will allow the boxwood to dry much faster after
wet periods thus reducing the infection likelihood. Mulch every two years or so to
lessen water splash that can move the disease. Recent research shows the value
of properly mulched boxwood in the control and management of box blight.
Properly select cultivars for each application based on ultimate desired size
and shape to avoid over-pruning. Many problems, in addition to box blight, can
occur if a plant is too big for its specific application in the landscape and it must
be pruned heavily to maintain ideal size. If heavy shearing is necessary for the
desired application, care should be taken to annually thin the plant to allow
air penetration into the plant. In gardens that tend to be wetter with less air
movement or where boxwood blight has been found, carefully choose cultivars
that are more tolerant of boxwood blight.

Chemical Control of Boxwood Blight

Chemical tests for prevention and control of boxwood blight are ongoing.
At the time of publication of the 5th Edition Boxwood Guide, there are multiple
fungicides that are considered to be viable options for prevention of boxwood
blight, however, there are none that can be considered curative.

Preventative fungicide application

Preventative fungicides are effective at killing spores if they are introduced.

These fungicides should be applied on a regular basis during times of potential
infection. In central Virginia, the typical infection period begins in early to
mid-April and ends in late October. However, it should be noted that fungicide
applications must be done in conjunction with other prevention and control
measures. If newly purchased boxwood are put in quarantine as a precaution, we
do not recommend the use of any fungicides for a minimum of 30 days or more.
The waiting period will allow any fungicide that may be present to dissipate and
allow the disease, if present, to proliferate if conditions are conducive.
There are no chemicals at this point that are considered options to totally

Diseases 27
stop or eliminate the disease once it is present. Once boxwood blight develops
microsclerotia or black streaks within the stems or debris, chemicals cannot
kill it; they can be used only to lessen sporulation. Saunders Brothers does
recommend the use of fungicides by anyone removing boxwood that are
infected with boxwood blight. The application of fungicide will kill spores that
are present, as well as any new ones that are being produced, thus lessening
the likelihood of further infection. For this reason, some gardeners are using
fungicides in infected gardens to lessen the spread of the disease if they choose to
not remove infected plants. But please remember the fungicide is only killing the
spore and not the disease. Consult your local full-service garden center or contact
your local Extension office for the latest updates.

Cleanup of Boxwood Blight

If suspected:

• Take samples and limit access to area until results are obtained.

If confirmed:

• Consult your Extension office for recommendations.

• Take great care not to further spread disease.
• Do cleanup on dry, sunny days when foliage is not wet.
• Consider fungicide applications before and during cleanup to
lessen sporulation.
• Consider wearing rubber boots and disposable clothing during
cleanup to lessen contamination of clothing and shoes.
• Cut and place the infected plants in a plastic bag and take care to
catch as much leaf litter as possible.
• After cleaning up leaf debris, remove roots.
• Debris should be burned or taken to landfill with care not to let
leaves escape.
• After cleanup, wash skin, launder or dispose of outer clothing,
and wash boots.
• Increase airflow in and around remaining plants by thinning and
removing lowest limbs.
• All tools and equipment should be thoroughly cleaned when moved
between different gardens or areas.
• Be sure to mulch to lessen the splashing of spores.
• Replant boxwood that are tolerant of boxwood blight.
• Monitor boxwood in times of optimal conditions for new infections
and flare-ups.

If you suspect the disease in the landscape, you should take great care
in collecting samples by double bagging them and taking them to the local
Extension office or another testing lab. The area should be roped off or
temporarily fenced off until the results are obtained.
If boxwood blight is confirmed, you must be diligent and careful in cleanup.
Extreme care should be taken to avoid infecting other plants with debris or
plant contact. Contact your local Extension office for the newest cleanup
recommendations as they are changing periodically with scientific advancements.

28 BOXWOOD GUIDE
We recommend you choose a time to cleanup when it is sunny and when foliage is
dry. Again, the plant is less likely to be sporulating when foliage is dry. Consider
applying fungicides to any area where you are working to kill any spores that are
present. Your local Extension office can provide fungicide recommendations.
We recommend you wear some sort of disposable suit, like disposable
Tyvek® coveralls. Also, wear rubber boots as they can easily be cleaned. If
possible put a plastic bag over the infected plant and cut the plant off at the base.
Take care to catch as much leaf litter as possible. Then, clean up any leaves
that were missed before disturbing the roots as you do not want to incorporate
diseased debris into the soil. After all debris is cleaned up, remove the roots.
All debris should be bagged or covered to eliminate the possibility of it blowing
or falling out. Do not compost the debris. Burning the debris is a good option.
Some studies recommend the burying of debris, but you must be careful to bury
it a minimum of two feet or more in a place where you do not intend to plant
boxwood again. The disease can live for long periods of time in buried debris.
After the cleanup is complete, remove outer clothing and launder or dispose
of it. Laundering with detergent and hot water will kill spores. Boots should be
thoroughly washed and all tools and equipment should be carefully cleaned as
well. We also recommend that you prune any other boxwood in the landscape to
increase airflow to maintain dry foliage. Remove any limbs that touch the ground
and might get rain splash, and be sure plants are properly mulched. Continue to
monitor any boxwood during environmental conditions conducive to infection
(warm 60-80° F, wet, and little air movement).

Boxwood blight infected sempervirens thriving with good air movement and mulch
Since 2011 when boxwood blight was first discovered in the United States,
we have learned a great deal with regard to control and living with the disease.
The early assumption was that any landscape that is infected by boxwood
blight would need to be totally destroyed. If the landscape is primarily Buxus
‘Suffruticosa’ (English), which is very susceptible to boxwood blight, then we

Diseases 29
would likely agree. At a minimum one should remove any plants in the vicinity of
the infected plants and closely monitor all other plants. However, we have seen
landscapes of Buxus sempervirens (American), which are somewhat tolerant
to boxwood blight, survive and thrive if certain steps are taken. You should
remove the diseased sections, prune to increase air movement within the plant,
remove lower limbs, and mulch to lessen splashing of spores from the ground. In
addition, the plants should be carefully monitored when infection is likely.

Tolerance to Boxwood Blight

• Sempervirens cultivars are typically more susceptible.

• Microphylla, insularis, and harlandii cultivars and species are
typically more tolerant.
• Open and upright plants, including some sempervirens tend to be
more tolerant.
• Shorter, more compact plants, including some of the microphylla
tend to be more susceptible.
• See page 94 for a summary sheet or see individual cultivar pages
for more information.

Boxwood blight research is producing a large amount of valuable

information. When tested in a lab in petri dishes, all boxwood are susceptible to
boxwood blight. However, we are finding significant differences when tested in
landscape or production scenarios. Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’ (English
boxwood) is the most susceptible cultivar. We have learned there is boxwood

Boxwood blight susceptibility research. English boxwood (L) and ‘Green Beauty’ (R).

blight tolerance in boxwood cultivars, particularly the microphylla, insularis,

and harlandii species and cultivars. It is difficult to completely group based on
species as we have found exceptions based on plant shape and structure. Open,
more upright plants tend to be more tolerant while short, compact cultivars seem

30 BOXWOOD GUIDE
to be more susceptible. A great deal of research is ongoing to discover additional
cultivars that will be tolerant to boxwood blight.
Based on current boxwood blight research, we have listed the relative
tolerances of the cultivars listed in the Boxwood Guide. A summary of this
information can be found in the back of this book or on individual cultivar pages.
We are all learning more about this disease on a daily basis.

Boxwood blight tolerant cultivars in production

Diseases 31
32 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Morris Midget
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla var. japonica ‘Morris Midget’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Very slow, 0.5 to 1 inch per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Morris Midget’ is a small dwarf cultivar. It is

very compact. In full winter sun, some bronzing will occur but new spring growth
will cover the bronzing. The growth rate of this cultivar makes it an appealing
plant where space is limited. It responds well to pruning or can be left unpruned.
It is slightly smaller than ‘Morris Dwarf’. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Morris Midget’ requires little to no pruning when used as a specimen.

It responds well to shearing when used in edging, parterres, and knot gardens.
Thinning is recommended in late winter or early spring which will help reduce
chance of disease. Remove any sports with hand pruners by cutting sporting
stems back into interior of the plant.

‘Morris Midget’ is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer but very susceptible

to boxwood blight. It has few pest or disease issues when planted and cared for
properly.

Comments: This is the smallest boxwood we grow. Be patient with it, as it is a

very slow grower. We have seen it grown in full sun; however, for best results,
plant this boxwood in areas with afternoon shade.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, edging, parterre or knot garden

Substitutes: ‘Morris Dwarf’, ‘Grace Hendrick Phillips’, ‘Green Pillow’

• Size at 15 years: 1’ Tall x 1’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 1.5’ Tall x 2’ Wide

Cultivars 33
34 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Morris Dwarf
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla var. japonica ‘Morris Dwarf’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Very slow, 0.5 to 1 inch per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Morris Dwarf’ is an excellent performing cultivar

that is very compact. In winter sun, it will bronze; however, in
spring new growth will quickly cover the bronzing. It is outstanding for edging
formal beds or in parterre gardens and is very low maintenance. It responds well
either pruned or left unpruned and is slightly larger than ‘Morris Midget’.
Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Morris Dwarf’ requires little to no pruning when used as a specimen. It

responds well to shearing when used in edging, parterres, and knot gardens.
Thinning is recommended in late winter or early spring which will help reduce
chance of disease. Remove undesirable sports with hand pruners by cutting
sporting stems back into interior of the plant.

‘Morris Dwarf’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer but very susceptible to

boxwood blight. It has few pest or disease issues when planted and cared for
properly.

Comments: We have seen it in numerous full sun landscapes but, for optimal
beauty, plant it so it receives at least afternoon shade. Remember it is a dwarf
boxwood and you must be patient with its growth. ‘Morris Dwarf’ were planted
in a stunning knot garden at Mount Vernon, outside of Washington D.C.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, edging, parterre or knot garden

Substitutes: ‘Morris Midget’, ‘Grace Hendrick Phillips’, ‘Green Pillow’

•
•

• Size at 15 years: 1’ Tall x 1.25’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 1.5’ Tall x 2.25’ Wide

Cultivars 35
36 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Grace Hendrick
Phillips
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla ‘Grace Hendrick Phillips’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Slow, 0.75 to 1.5 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Grace Hendrick Phillips’ mounds and

spreads very much like some of the dwarf Japanese hollies. The growth rate is
slow enough that it does not outgrow the landscape but fast enough to be used
as a primary plant in many landscapes. Be patient in the spring, as new growth
appears slightly later than most boxwood. New foliage is light green and matures
to a darker green. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Grace H. Phillips’ requires little to no pruning, except when used in

edging, parterre, or knot gardens. If pruning is necessary, use hand pruners or
shears. Occasional sports occur on this plant and they should be removed. Some
thinning in late winter or early spring will help reduce disease incidence.

‘Grace H. Phillips’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer but somewhat

susceptible to boxwood blight. It has few pest or disease issues when planted and
cared for properly.

Comments: This boxwood was highly rated in the National Boxwood Trials. Its
spreading habit is very appealing. We have even seen mature plants cascading in
a rock garden or spreading like a groundcover.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden

Substitutes: ‘Morris Dwarf’, ‘Green Pillow’, ‘Morris Midget’

• Size at 15 years: 1’ Tall x 2’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 1.5’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 37
38 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Green Pillow
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla ‘Green Pillow’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Slow, 0.75 to 1 inch per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Green Pillow’ is known for its naturally

dense, compact, oval habit. Its foliage is lime-green and
its shape is larger but very much resembles ‘Morris Dwarf’ and ‘Morris Midget’.
In winter sun this cultivar will bronze; however, bronzing or foliage burn will
quickly disappear when new growth appears in spring. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Green Pillow’ needs very little to no pruning in most applications. It will
need pruning if it is used for edging, or a parterre, or a knot garden. Use hand
pruners or shears. Remove sports with hand pruners by cutting sporting stems
back into interior of the plant. Thinning in late winter or early spring will help
reduce possibility of disease.

‘Green Pillow’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer but somewhat susceptible to

boxwood blight. When properly planted and cared for, this plant has few disease
or pest issues.

Comments: Plant this cultivar in shade and watch it thrive. It literally looks like
a pincushion. ‘Green Pillow’ were planted to surround the Jackie Kennedy Rose
Garden at the White House in Washington, D.C.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden

Substitutes: ‘Morris Dwarf’, ‘Grace Hendrick Phillips’, ‘Morris Midget’

• Size at 15 years: 1.25’ Tall x 1.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 39
40 BOXWOOD GUIDE
insularis ‘Nana’
Cultivar: Buxus sinica var. insularis ‘Nana’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: Insularis ‘Nana’ is a low spreading cultivar

with lime green new growth in the spring. New growth
will slowly fade to a light green. Although considered a smaller cultivar, it is a
somewhat fast grower. It is very similar to the cultivars ‘Franklin’s Gem’ and
‘Tide Hill’. Deer resistant.

Care: Prune insularis ‘Nana’ lightly in late winter or early spring to make a
stronger and denser plant. This cultivar can be pruned with shears or hand
pruners. Thinning is not typically necessary but, if this cultivar is sheared
heavily, some thinning in late winter to early spring will allow air and sunlight to
penetrate the plant.

Insularis ‘Nana’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer and very tolerant to

boxwood blight. It has few pest or disease issues when planted and cared for
properly.

Comments: ‘Nana’ is becoming increasingly popular due to its tolerance to

boxwood blight and resistance to boxwood leafminer. An annual light pruning
will help develop rigidity in this boxwood and lessen the chance of the plant
opening up in the center as it matures. Recent genetic testing data indicates
‘Nana’ and ‘Franklin’s Gem’ are basically the same plant.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden

Substitutes: ‘Franklin’s Gem’, ‘Little Missy’, ‘Justin Brouwers’, ‘Vardar Valley’

• Size at 15 years: 1.5’ Tall x 3’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2’ Tall x 4’ Wide

Cultivars 41
42 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Franklin’s Gem
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla sinica ‘Franklin’s Gem’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Franklin’s Gem’ is a low spreading cultivar with

lime green new growth in the spring. New growth will slowly
transition to an olive-green. It is very similar to the cultivars
insularis ‘Nana’ and ‘Tide Hill’. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Franklin’s Gem’ should be pruned lightly in late winter to early spring
to make a stronger and denser plant. This cultivar can be pruned with shears or
hand pruners. Thinning is not typically necessary but, if this cultivar is sheared
heavily, some thinning in early spring would be beneficial.

‘Franklin’s Gem’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer and very tolerant to

boxwood blight. It has few pest or disease issues when planted and cared for
properly.

Comments: A light annual pruning will lessen the tendency of the plant to open
up in the center over time. Demand for ‘Franklin’s Gem’ is greatly increasing as
tests show its resistance to leafminer and tolerance to boxwood blight. Recent
genetic testing shows it is possibly the same plant as insularis ‘Nana’.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden

Substitutes: insularis ‘Nana’, ‘Little Missy’, ‘Justin Brouwers’, ‘Vardar Valley’

• Size at 15 years: 1.5’ Tall x 3’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2’ Tall x 4’ Wide

Cultivars 43
44 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Little Missy
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla ‘Little Missy’ PP24703

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1.5 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Little Missy’ is a compact rounded cultivar. It

is extremely cold hardy and sun tolerant. It can be used in applications where
a smaller sized or sheared plant is desired. It is a great choice for uses where a
2’x2’ plant is called for. Foliage is very dark green and comes to a pronounced
point at the end of the leaf. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Little Missy’ requires little to no pruning, but a light shearing each late
winter will increase its compactness. It is considered a Zone 5 boxwood thus it
tends to be hardier than some other microphylla cultivars.

‘Little Missy’ is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer and very tolerant to

boxwood blight. It has very few pest or disease issues when planted and cared for
properly.

Comments: ‘Little Missy’ is a winner. Its shape and size remind us of a half-
sized ‘Green Velvet’. It is also a great option to use as a substitute for ‘Justin
Brouwers’. It was found in a production area by West Virginia nurseryman
Norman Cole. Norman has had the plant go through -18° F with no damage. Its
winter hardiness and durability, disease tolerance, pest resistance, along with its
smaller size are all pluses for this plant.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden

Substitutes: ‘Justin Brouwers’, ‘Green Gem’, ‘Green Velvet’, Chicagoland

Green™, ‘Green Mound’

• Size at 15 years: 2’ Tall x 2’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 3’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 45
46 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Justin Brouwers
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens ‘Justin Brouwers’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Justin Brouwers’ is a compact, mounding to

rounded cultivar. It is extremely versatile. It can be used in
applications where it is pruned or in gardens with minimal to
no pruning. Foliage is a spectacular deep-green color even in winter. It holds its
foliage deep into the interior of the plant. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Justin Brouwers’, as a juvenile plant and up to about 10-12 inches, has
a slightly upright habit. An annual pruning to round the plant should occur in
late winter or early spring. Thereafter it can be left basically unpruned and will
develop into a plant that is somewhat rounded. An occasional light pruning in
late winter or early spring may be preferred. When used as edging, parterre,
or knot gardens, pruning and shearing will be necessary. Use hand pruners or
shears. Thinning in late winter or early spring is recommended to lessen disease
occurrence.

‘Justin Brouwers’ is very susceptible to boxwood leafminer and very susceptible

to boxwood blight. Special care should be taken when planting to ensure the
plant is properly elevated and all drainage issues are addressed as it is sensitive to
poorly drained soils.

Comments: Recent boxwood DNA tests have shown that ‘Justin Brouwers’ is
a sempervirens cultivar and not a sinica insularis. ‘Justin Brouwers’ has been
a favorite of ours for many years as a replacement for ‘Suffruticosa’ (English
boxwood). Gardeners should be aware of its boxwood blight susceptibility
especially when sheared tightly or in areas of low air movement. If planted
correctly this plant is stunning; however, we have seen cases where it is planted
in areas of poor drainage and the plant struggles.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden

Substitutes:‘Little Missy’, ‘Green Gem’, ‘Green Velvet’, ‘Richard’, ‘Green Mound’

• Size at 15 years: 2’ Tall x 2.25’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 3’ Tall x 3.5’ Wide

Cultivars 47
48 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Richard
Cultivar: Buxus harlandii ‘Richard’

Zone: 7-9

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Richard’ has unique rounded foliage with an

indentation at the tip almost creates a heart shaped leaf. At
first glance, it’s unusual shaped foliage and glossy texture
make ‘Richard’ easily mistaken as a non-boxwood. The plant’s habit is very vase
shaped and slightly wider than tall. It is part of the harlandii species of boxwood
that are thought to have come from southeast Asia or China. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Richard’ should be placed in the landscape where it is sheltered from

harsh winter winds and extreme cold. It flushes relatively early in spring, thus
is more prone to frost damage. In spite of its lack of cold hardiness, it’s unique
foliage greatly adds to the landscape. ‘Richard’ requires little to no pruning.

‘Richard’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer and very tolerant to boxwood

blight. It has very few other disease or pest issues.

Comments: The foliage of ‘Richard’ is nearly as large as a penny and the heart
shape is very unique. We love this plant when it is planted in a protected area.
In central Virginia, we have placed it in protected sites on the east or northeast
side of the landscape and it has done well, however in the west and southwest
locations where it is unprotected, it has suffered winter damage. The harlandii
group is showing very good tolerance to boxwood blight, thus creating a stir in
the boxwood world.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant

Substitutes: ‘Little Missy’, harlandii, ‘Green Gem’

• Size at 15 years: 1.75’ Tall x 2’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2.5’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 49
50 BOXWOOD GUIDE
harlandii
Cultivar: Buxus harlandii (Harlandii Boxwood)

Zone: 7-9

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: Harlandii is a vase shaped grower with unique

foliage that is long and slender. Leaves are approximately
1½” long and 3/8” wide. With a habit that is slightly taller than wide, harlandii
will tend to create a nearly drooping habit where foliage goes up and over. Deer
resistant.

Care: Harlandii should be planted in a protected location in the landscape due

to its hardiness of Zone 7. In unprotected areas, it will likely receive winter cold
damage. It is one of the first boxwood to flush in spring, thus it is more prone to
spring frost damage. Harlandii requires little to no pruning.

Harlandii is very resistant to boxwood leafminer and very tolerant to boxwood

blight. It has very few other disease or pest issues.

Comments: We chose to grow harlandii due to its unique foliage, as well as

the demand we have received from customers in warmer regions of the Mid-
Atlantic. The harlandii species of boxwood is being used in many tests, breeding
programs, and experiments due to its excellent tolerance to boxwood blight.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant

Substitutes: ‘Richard’

• Size at 15 years: 2.25’ Tall x 2’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 3’ Tall x 2.75’ Wide

Cultivars 51
52 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Jensen
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens ‘Jensen’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 2 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Jensen’ is a rounded cultivar that closely

resembles Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’ (English). It has
bluish-green new growth in the spring that turns to a deep
green by mid to late summer. Foliage is slightly larger than English.
It thrives in dappled shade and soils with good drainage. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Jensen’ flourishes when left basically unpruned. It should never be

sheared. Shearing will increase canopy density and increase the chance of
disease problems. Avoid uses where heavy pruning is necessary. Thinning is
recommended either in winter for holiday decorations or in late winter to early
spring before new growth appears. This will help sunlight and air to penetrate
the canopy of the plant and reduce disease incidence. Use hand pruners.

‘Jensen’ is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer but very susceptible to

boxwood blight. To lessen disease issues, it is important that proper planting and
pruning techniques are used, as well as, the proper site is chosen. Monitor soil
pH and maintain in 6.5-7.0 range.

Comments: We began growing ‘Jensen’ when we saw its beautiful blue foliage
and its potential to be more resistant to some of the diseases affecting English
boxwood. It shows most promise if planted on a new site where there has not
been diseased English boxwood, there is good drainage, and there is full shade
or afternoon shade. However, when planted in full sun, in an area with poor
drainage, or as a replacement of diseased English boxwood, it will struggle.

Uses: Medium specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, foliage for holiday
decorations

Substitutes: ‘Little Missy’, ‘Justin Brouwers’, ‘Green Gem’, ‘Green Velvet’,

Chicagoland Green™, ‘Green Mound’

• Size at 15 years: 2.25’ Tall x 2’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 3’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 53
54 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Suffruticosa (English)
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’ (English Boxwood)

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 2 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Suffruticosa’ (English) is known for its soft, billowy

outline and lush foliage. English boxwood is often referred to as
“dwarf boxwood” due to its slow growth rate. However, in an ideal
environment, the plant will continue to grow for 75 to 150 years and develop into
a very large shrub. As a result, take care to avoid using this plant where it will
ultimately be too large for the desired use. English boxwood has a distinct odor.
Deer resistant.

Care: English boxwood thrives in shade or partial shade and when left
unpruned. Never shear as it will increase the foliage density and thus the chance
of disease problems. Thinning is recommended in either early winter for
holiday decorations or in late winter to early spring. This will help sunlight and
air to penetrate the canopy of the plant and reduce disease incidence. Use hand
pruners.

English boxwood is very resistant to boxwood leafminer but very susceptible to

boxwood blight. Take special attention when planting and caring for English
boxwood as it is prone to disease issues. Do not replant it in areas where other
English boxwood have died due to disease problems or on sites where English
boxwood were previously planted. Avoid areas with poor drainage and areas with
direct afternoon sun. Monitor soil pH and maintain in 6.5-7.0 range.

Comments: English boxwood in its optimal environment is untouched in

its beauty. It has probably been the most extensively planted boxwood in the
United States over the past 100 years. However, many people have planted it on
undesirable sites and the plant has not done well. If conditions are questionable,
consider a different cultivar. Unfortunately, this may be a plant of the past.

Uses: Medium specimen, foundation plant, foliage for holiday decorations

Substitutes: ‘Little Missy’, ‘Justin Brouwers’, ‘Green Beauty’, ‘Green Velvet’,

‘Green Mound’, ‘Green Gem’

• Size at 15 years: 2.25’ Tall x 2’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 3’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 55
56 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Green Gem
Cultivar: Buxus x ‘Green Gem’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Medium, 2 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Green Gem’ is a cold-hardy hybrid boxwood with

a spherical habit. It is often referred to as being in the “Green
Series” of boxwood (see ‘Green Velvet’ for more information).
It is very similar in shape to ‘Green Mound’ but slightly smaller. To minimize
bronzing, avoid planting in areas of direct winter sun. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Green Gem’ should be lightly pruned in late winter or early spring to
maintain desired shape. Use hand pruners or shears. Thinning is not necessary
but, as with any boxwood, will help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into
the interior of the plant which reduces the chance of disease.

‘Green Gem’ is very susceptible to boxwood leafminer and shows variable results
in tolerance and susceptibility to boxwood blight.

Comments: It was developed in Canada at Sheridan Nurseries. This boxwood

has been planted extensively over the past 20-30 years. Its hardiness and non-
domineering size have been popular with many landscapers.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden, containers

Substitutes: ‘Little Missy’, ‘Justin Brouwers’, ‘Green Velvet’, ‘Green Mound’,

Chicagoland Green™

• Size at 15 years: 2’ Tall x 2’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2.75’ Tall x 2.75’ Wide

Cultivars 57
58 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Elegantissima
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Part sun or shade

Attributes: ‘Elegantissima’ will add color to the landscape

with its green leaves accented with creamy-white edges. Its
creamy variegation differs from many of the white margined
cultivars. Use the foliage in holiday decorations. Avoid poorly drained soils.
Deer resistant.

Care: With minimal to no pruning ‘Elegantissima’ will develop into a slightly

pyramidal plant. If a more rounded shape is desired, prune lightly in late
winter or early spring. Thinning is recommended either in winter for holiday
decorations or in late winter to early spring before new growth appears. This will
help sunlight and air penetrate the canopy of the plant which reduces disease
incidence.

‘Elegantissima’ is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer but very susceptible

to boxwood blight.

Comments: The color of the foliage on this cultivar makes it a winner. We have
seen it planted in full sun but it prefers some shade especially in the afternoon.
It can really brighten shaded areas. It is a sempervirens cultivar, so at time of
planting it is important to properly elevate the plant and address all drainage
issues.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, foliage for holiday
decorations, containers

Substitutes: Golden Dream

• Size at 15 years: 2.5’ Tall x 2’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 3.5’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 59
60 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Golden Dream
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla Golden Dream (‘Peergold’) PP16052

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: Golden Dream has a beautiful rounded and compact

habit. The foliage is edged with heavy golden variegation. From
a distance, the variegation makes the entire plant nearly a lime-
green color. Deer resistant.

Care: Golden Dream can be pruned lightly in late winter or early spring to
maintain desired habit. Use hand pruners and shears. Thinning is not necessary
but, as with any boxwood, will help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into
the interior of the plant.

Golden Dream is very resistant to boxwood leafminer and very tolerant to

boxwood blight. It has few pest or disease issues when planted and cared for
properly.

Comments: This promising boxwood is relatively new to the market.

Remember it offers more of a lime coloring than the traditional white or creamy
variegation. We like the fact that it is a microphylla and believe that it will be
more tolerant to sunny locations as well as marginal soil conditions. In late fall
and winter, we have seen this cultivar take on a natural orange tint as orange-red
spots appear in the variegation. It seems to be a characteristic of the plant, so
don’t be alarmed as it will quickly disappear in the spring as temperatures rise
and new growth emerges.

Uses: Medium specimen, medium hedge, foundation plant, foliage for holiday
decorations

Substitutes: ‘Elegantissima’

• Size at 15 years: 3’ Tall x 3’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 4’ Tall x 4’ Wide

Cultivars 61
62 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Buddy
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens ‘Buddy’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Medium, 2 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Buddy’ has beautiful, dark green, large leaves. Its

rounded habit is slightly wider than tall. The habit and overall
look of the plant is very similar to ‘Green Velvet’. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Buddy’ should be lightly pruned with hand pruners or shears in late
winter or early spring to maintain desired shape. Thinning is not necessary but
as with all boxwood, it will increase airflow and decrease disease incidence.

‘Buddy’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer and shows variable results in

tolerance and susceptibility to boxwood blight. ‘Buddy’ has few other pest or
disease issues when planted and cared for properly.

Comments: ‘Buddy’ was added to our boxwood production because of its high
resistance to boxwood leafminer while looking nearly identical to ‘Green Velvet’.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden

Substitutes: ‘Green Velvet’, Chicagoland Green™, ‘Green Mound’, ‘Green Gem’,

‘Little Missy’

• Size at 15 years: 2’ Tall x 2.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2.75’ Tall x 3.5’ Wide

Cultivars 63
64 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Green Velvet
Cultivar: Buxus x ‘Green Velvet’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Medium, 2 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Green Velvet’ has a somewhat rounded habit

that is slightly wider than tall. The foliage on this cultivar is a
beautiful medium to light-green in spring and slowly transitions
to a dark green. It is a cold-hardy hybrid boxwood that was developed in Canada.
It is a selected seedling cross between Buxus sempervirens and Buxus sinica
var. insularis and part of the “Green Series” of boxwood which include ‘Green
Mountain’, ‘Green Mound’, ‘Green Gem’, and ‘Green Velvet’. It is very similar to
the cultivar Chicagoland Green™. ‘Green Velvet’ will bronze slightly in winter
especially when exposed to direct sunlight. Typically, in spring, as temperatures
rise, bronzed foliage will brighten and new growth will quickly transform the
plant to green. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Green Velvet’ should be pruned lightly in late winter or early spring
to maintain desired habit. It may be sheared into edging and other formal
applications. Use hand pruners or shears. Thinning is not necessary but, as
with any boxwood, it will help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the
interior of the plant which reduces the chance of disease.

‘Green Velvet’ is very susceptible to boxwood leafminer and shows variable

results in tolerance and susceptibility to boxwood blight.

Comments: ‘Green Velvet’ has been very popular for the past 20-30 years,
however we are seeing better alternatives today. We have seen and heard some
reports of root issues possibly related to poor drainage, which may be explained
by its sempervirens parentage. In many landscapes, it will reach its 15 year size
at a moderate speed then very slow growth afterwards.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden, containers

Substitutes: Chicagoland Green™, ‘Buddy’, ‘Green Mound’, ‘Green Gem’,

‘Little Missy’

• Size at 15 years: 2’ Tall x 2.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2.75’ Tall x 3.5’ Wide

Cultivars 65
66 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Chicagoland
Green™
Cultivar: Buxus x Chicagoland Green™ (‘Glencoe’)

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Medium, 2 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: Chicagoland Green™ will grow slightly wider than tall. It is an

excellent cold-hardy cultivar that is extremely uniform in its growth. It is very
similar to ‘Green Velvet’. Chicagoland Green™ will bronze slightly in winter
especially when planted in full sun. Bronzed foliage will typically disappear
quickly in spring as temperatures rise. Deer resistant.

Care: Prune Chicagoland Green™ lightly in late winter or early spring to

maintain desired habit. It may be sheared into edging and other formal
applications. Use hand pruners or shears. Thinning is not necessary but, as with
any boxwood, will help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the interior
of the plant which reduces the chance of disease.

Chicagoland Green™ is very susceptible to boxwood leafminer and shows

variable results in tolerance and susceptibility to boxwood blight.

Comments: It is a selected hybrid from the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe,

Illinois. It is very difficult to distinguish it from ‘Green Velvet’. Its hardiness and
durability make it a popular plant.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden, containers

Substitutes: ‘Green Velvet’, ‘Buddy’, ‘Green Mound’, ‘Green Gem’, ‘Little Missy’

• Size at 15 years: 2’ Tall x 2.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2.75’ Tall x 3.5’ Wide

Cultivars 67
68 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Green Mound
Cultivar: Buxus x ‘Green Mound’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Medium, 2 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Green Mound’ is a cold-hardy hybrid boxwood

with a spherical habit. It is often referred to as being in
the “Green Series” of boxwood (see ‘Green Velvet’ for more
information). It is similar to ‘Green Velvet’ but more rounded in its natural
shape. ‘Green Mound’ will bronze slightly in winter especially when exposed to
direct sunlight. The bronzed leaves will typically brighten as spring temperatures
rise and then be covered as new foliage appears. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Green Mound’ should be pruned lightly in late winter or early spring
to maintain desired habit. It may be sheared into edging and other formal
applications. Use hand pruners or shears. Thinning is not necessary but, as with
any boxwood, will help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the interior
of the plant which reduces the chance of disease.

‘Green Mound’ is somewhat susceptible to boxwood leafminer and shows variable

results in tolerance and susceptibility to boxwood blight.

Comments: This is another of the hardy Sheridan Nurseries boxwood from

Canada. It is very popular. In many landscapes, it will reach its 15 year size at a
moderate speed then very slow growth afterwards.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, edging, parterre or knot
garden, containers

Substitutes: ‘Green Velvet’, Chicagoland Green™, ‘Little Missy’, ‘Justin

Brouwers’

• Size at 15 years: 2.25’ Tall x 2.25’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 3’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 69
70 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Vardar Valley
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens ‘Vardar Valley’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Slow to medium, 1 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Vardar Valley’ is very appealing due to its

distinctive powdery blue new foliage in the spring combined
with excellent winter hardiness. It matures into a broad,
mounding plant. Spring blue foliage will fade to a deep green in summer.
‘Vardar Valley’ holds the deep green color through the winter. Avoid planting in
areas where drainage is poor. Deer resistant.

Care: Lightly prune ‘Vardar Valley’ as needed in late winter or early spring to
maintain desired shape and density. Use hand pruners or shears. Thinning is
not necessary but, as with any boxwood, will help increase airflow and sunlight
penetration into the interior of the plant.

‘Vardar Valley’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer and shows variable results
in tolerance and susceptibility to boxwood blight. When planted properly in well-
drained soils, this plant has few pest and disease problems.

Comments: ‘Vardar Valley’ has been one of the top plants in the National
Boxwood Trials and test gardens. You must be patient with the plant in its
juvenile stages (up to about 18” wide) as its habit is open and its branches are
prominent. Do not plant in areas where drainage is questionable. ‘Vardar Valley’
was used in a stunning planting outside The Oval Office of the White House in
Washington, DC.

Uses: Small specimen, low hedge, foundation plant, foliage for holiday
decorations

Substitutes: ‘Green Velvet’, Chicagoland Green™, insularis ‘Nana’,

‘Franklin’s Gem’

• Size at 15 years: 1.5’ Tall x 3’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 2.5’ Tall x 5’ Wide

Cultivars 71
72 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Green Beauty
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla var. japonica ‘Green Beauty’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Medium, 2 to 4 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Green Beauty’ is an excellent medium-sized

cultivar that has deep green glossy foliage with little winter
bronzing. It has a naturally rounded habit that will typically
be slightly wider than tall. Its branching structure makes for a very strong plant
that can withstand breakage from most moderate to heavy snowfalls. It is very
durable and recovers quickly if a limb is broken or if radical pruning is necessary.
Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Green Beauty’ should be pruned lightly in late winter or early spring to
maintain a more uniform shape. It will typically start a secondary flush of new
growth in the late summer to early fall that may be burned and discolored by fall
frost before it hardens off. These branches or “horns” can be pruned off any time
after the first hard freeze of the fall, or left on the plant until early spring pruning.
If the plant outgrows its desired size, it tolerates radical pruning. Prune with
hand pruners or shears. Thinning is not necessary but, as with any boxwood, will
help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the interior of the plant which
reduces the chance of disease.

‘Green Beauty’ is somewhat susceptible to boxwood leafminer but very tolerant to

boxwood blight. It has few other pest or disease issues when planted and cared
for properly.

Comments: ‘Green Beauty’ has become very popular due to its high tolerance
of boxwood blight. Its durability and disease resistance are very good. We
have planted it in locations where diseased English boxwood have died and it
is thriving. Pruning as a young plant is a must to develop a good shape. ‘Green
Beauty’ has been planted extensively in the Main Fountain Garden at Longwood
Gardens in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania.

Uses: Medium specimen, medium hedge, foundation plant, containers

Substitutes: ‘Green Velvet’, ‘Buddy’, ‘Green Mound’, Chicagoland Green™,

‘Jim Stauffer’

• Size at 15 years: 3’ Tall x 3’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 4.5’ Tall x 5’ Wide

Cultivars 73
74 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Wintergreen
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla var. japonica ‘Wintergreen’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Fast, 4 to 6 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Wintergreen’ is a vigorous, winter-hardy cultivar

that is ideal when a medium to large foundation plant is desired.
It is great for use in medium-sized hedges and is very tolerant of
pruning or shearing. It has a tendency to bronze when exposed to direct winter
sun but the bronzing will quickly disappear as temperatures rise in spring and
as new growth emerges. It is very similar to ‘Winter Gem’ and ‘Faulkner’. Deer
resistant.

Care: ‘Wintergreen’ should be pruned each late winter or early spring to

maintain desired shape. Use hand pruners or shears. Additional prunings may
be necessary in early to mid-summer, depending on the desired look and vigor of
the plant. ‘Wintergreen’ tolerates more radical pruning if the plant has outgrown
its desired size. Thinning is not necessary on this cultivar.

‘Wintergreen’ is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer and very tolerant of

boxwood blight. When properly planted and cared for, it has few other disease or
pest issues.

Comments: It is a great choice when you want to fill a space quickly. If left
unpruned, a vigorous plant can become wiry but the plant will respond very well
to hedge shears. There are many cultivars in the nursery industry with the name
‘Wintergreen’. Some are very similar to this one and others are very different.
When matching plants, be sure to check plant attributes and projected size before
purchasing.

Uses: Medium specimen, medium hedge, low hedge, foundation plant

Substitutes: ‘Winter Gem’, ‘Green Beauty’, ‘Jim Stauffer’

• Size at 15 years: 3.5’ Tall x 3.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 5’ Tall x 5’ Wide

Cultivars 75
76 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Winter Gem
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla var. japonica ‘Winter Gem’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Fast, 4 to 6 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Winter Gem’ is a round-shaped cultivar that is

relatively vigorous. It tolerates a wide range of sites and uses.
New foliage emerges a lime-green color and transitions to a
deep, glossy green. It has a tendency to bronze when exposed to direct winter sun
but the bronzing will quickly disappear in spring as temperatures rise and as new
growth emerges. ‘Winter Gem’ is very similar to the cultivars ‘Wintergreen’ or
‘Faulkner’. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Winter Gem’ should be pruned each year in late winter to early spring to
maintain desired shape. Use hand pruners or shears. Additional lighter prunings
may be necessary in early to mid-summer, depending on the desired look and
vigor of the plant. ‘Winter Gem’ tolerates more radical pruning if the plant has
outgrown its desired size. Thinning is not necessary on this cultivar.

‘Winter Gem’ is very resistant to boxwood leafminer and very tolerant of

boxwood blight. It has few other pest or disease issues when planted and cared
for properly.

Comments: Great plant to fill space quickly. It is very similar to ‘Wintergreen’.

It has very vigorous growth habit that can get rather wiry but it can be controlled
with a good pair of hedge shears.

Uses: Medium specimen, medium hedge, low hedge, foundation plant

Substitutes: ‘Wintergreen’, ‘Green Beauty’, ‘Jim Stauffer’

• Size at 15 years: 3.5’ Tall x 3.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 5’ Tall x 5’ Wide

Cultivars 77
78 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Green Mountain
Cultivar: Buxus x ‘Green Mountain’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Medium to fast, 2 to 4 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Green Mountain’ is a cold-hardy rounded conical

shaped hybrid boxwood. It is often referred to as being in
the “Green Series” of boxwood (see ‘Green Velvet’ for more
information). ‘Green Mountain’ will bronze slightly in winter
especially when exposed to direct sunlight but bronzing will quickly fade as new
spring foliage begins to emerge. Deer resistant.

Care: Prune ‘Green Mountain’ lightly in late winter or early spring to maintain
desired habit. Use hand pruners or shears. ‘Green Mountain’ is often sheared in
a tight pyramid or conical shape to distinguish it from other plants in the “Green
Series”; however, when left unpruned, it will develop a more rounded conical
habit. Thinning is not necessary but, as with any boxwood, will help increase
airflow and sunlight penetration into the interior of the plant.

‘Green Mountain’ is somewhat susceptible to boxwood leafminer and shows

variable results in tolerance and susceptibility to boxwood blight.

Comments: This is another of the cold-hardy boxwood from Sheridan Nurseries

in Canada. Some gardeners believe annual light prunings are necessary on this
cultivar to improve its rigidity as an upright plant or the plant may open up with
snow. It grows with relative vigor until it is about 15 years old then slows down.

Uses: Medium specimen, medium hedge, low hedge, foundation plant,

containers

Substitutes: ‘John Baldwin’, ‘Dee Runk’, ‘Fastigiata’

• Size at 15 years: 3.5’ Tall x 2.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 5’ Tall x 3.5’ Wide

Cultivars 79
80 BOXWOOD GUIDE
John Baldwin
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla ‘John Baldwin’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Medium, 2 to 3 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘John Baldwin’ is grown for its true broad, conical

habit. Foliage is fine-textured and leaves are relatively small
compared to many boxwood. New foliage has a blue tint which
will slowly fade to a blue-green. Use this cultivar as an alternative to ‘Green
Mountain’ when a true conical shape with minimal pruning is desired. Also, use
it as an excellent substitute for conical Japanese hollies in sun or shade. Deer
resistant.

Care: As a juvenile plant that is less than 2 feet or so in height, prune ‘John
Baldwin’ in late winter to early spring to develop a conical habit. Once the plant
gets 2-3 feet tall, it requires less pruning, typically having to remove only side
shoots or “horns” each late winter or early spring. Use hand pruners or shears
although shears are seldom needed as plant matures. Thinning is not necessary
but, as with any boxwood, will help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into
the interior of the plant.

‘John Baldwin’ is somewhat susceptible to boxwood leafminer but very tolerant

of boxwood blight. It has few other pest or disease issues when planted and cared
for properly.

Comments: This may be the best pyramidal growing boxwood that we have
seen. Being a microphylla, it is proving to be more durable with regard to disease
and its adaptation to a wider range of soil conditions. We have seen it perform
well in marginally wet locations; however, we don’t recommend planting any
boxwood in areas where drainage is poor.

Uses: Medium specimen, medium hedge, foundation plant, containers

Substitutes: ‘Green Mountain’, ‘Dee Runk’, ‘Fastigiata’

• Size at 15 years: 3.5’ Tall x 2.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 6’ Tall x 4’ Wide

Cultivars 81
82 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Jim Stauffer
Cultivar: Buxus microphylla var. japonica ‘Jim Stauffer’

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Medium to fast, 2.5 to 5 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Jim Stauffer’ is an excellent foundation plant

that is slightly more vigorous than some cultivars, yet can
be maintained in a formal shape. It grows in a comparable
height-to-width ratio. It also responds very well to pruning or
shearing. It has proven to be more cold-hardy than other Buxus microphylla.
‘Jim Stauffer’ can be used as a great substitute for Buxus sempervirens
(American) when a plant of similar shape is desired but with smaller ultimate
size. Deer resistant.

Care: Lightly pruning ‘Jim Stauffer’ in late winter or early spring is necessary
to maintain a more uniform shape. It will occasionally start a secondary flush
of new growth in the late summer to early fall that may freeze before it hardens
off. These branches or “horns” can be pruned off after the first hard freeze of the
fall or in early spring. ‘Jim Stauffer’ tolerates more radical pruning if the plant
has outgrown its desired size. Prune with hand pruners or shears. Thinning is
not necessary but, as with any boxwood, will help increase airflow and sunlight
penetration into the interior of the plant.

‘Jim Stauffer’ is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer and somewhat tolerant

of boxwood blight. It has minimal other disease and pest issues when planted
and cared for properly.

Comments: We like this boxwood. It has foliage that is very similar to ‘Green
Beauty’ but its habit is slightly more upright. Its hardiness also makes it the
choice of many gardeners in colder climates.

Uses: Medium specimen, medium hedge, foundation plant, containers

Substitutes: sempervirens (American), ‘Green Beauty’, ‘Wintergreen’, ‘Winter

Gem’

• Size at 15 years: 3.25’ Tall x 3’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 5’ Tall x 5’ Wide

Cultivars 83
84 BOXWOOD GUIDE
sempervirens
(American)
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens (American boxwood)

Zone: 5-8

Growth Rate: Medium to fast, 3 to 5 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: American boxwood is a classic, large-growing,

upright to rounded boxwood. In an ideal environment, the plant will continue
to grow for 75 to 150 years and develop into a massive shrub (sometimes as large
as 15 ft. tall and wide or more). It has excellent dark green winter foliage and
cuttings are a favorite for holiday decorations. Be especially careful to plant this
cultivar in areas with good drainage. Deer resistant.

Care: Prune American boxwood lightly in late winter or early spring to maintain
desired habit. It tolerates more radical pruning if the plant has outgrown its
desired size. Use hand pruners, shears, and loppers. Thin in winter for holiday
decorations or early spring before new growth appears to increase airflow and
light penetration into the interior of the plant thus reducing the incidence of
disease.

American boxwood is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer and somewhat

tolerant to boxwood blight.

Comments: This boxwood has been the backbone of many Colonial American
landscapes for many years. Take care to avoid using this plant where it will
ultimately be too large for the landscape. Maintain good airflow in and around
American boxwood to lessen incidence of boxwood blight. Even when infected
with boxwood blight, we have seen this plant continue to thrive when lower limbs
were removed to reduce splash up and the plant was thinned to increase airflow.

Uses: Tall specimen, allée, tall hedge, medium hedge, foundation plant, foliage
for holiday decorations

Substitutes: ‘Jim Stauffer’

• Size at 15 years: 4’ Tall x 3.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 6’ Tall x 5.5’ Wide

Cultivars 85
86 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Dee Runk
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens ‘Dee Runk’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Fast to medium, 3 to 6 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Dee Runk’ is an excellent upright cultivar with a

naturally vertical habit. With some pruning, it can be a tight
conical shape. It will develop a broader columnar habit with
little to no pruning. Use as an excellent choice for narrow
hedges or accenting a door or corner. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Dee Runk’ responds very well to pruning. Use hand pruners or shears.
Lightly prune, as needed, in late winter or early spring to maintain density and
desired form. If winter snow or ice has damaged any limbs or pulled them
out from the plant, remove them. Thinning is not necessary but, as with any
boxwood, will help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the interior of
the plant. If a tight conical form is desired, training will be required. Depending
on growth and prior maintenance, a light annual pruning followed by a heavier
pruning every 3-5 years or so is necessary to maintain its form and minimize
splaying due to snow and ice or even heavy wet foliage in spring. Little or no
pruning will yield a broader columnar habit. Understand that this habit will
allow branches to potentially grow horizontal from the plant especially in frozen
winter precipitation or heavy new growth in late spring.

‘Dee Runk’ is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer and somewhat tolerant to

boxwood blight. When planted properly, it has few other pest or disease issues.

Comments: ‘Dee Runk’ is one of the prettiest and most versatile boxwood
we grow. We believe this plant is best when pruned into a tight conical form.
Its versatility of growing in full sun or full shade make it a great option in
many different landscapes. It is very similar to ‘Fastigiata’. ‘Dee Runk’ is Paul
Saunders’ favorite plant.

Uses: Tall specimen, allée, tall hedge, medium hedge, foundation plant, holiday
foliage, containers

Substitutes: ‘Fastigiata’, ‘John Baldwin’

• Size at 15 years: 7’ Tall x 2.5’ Wide

• Size at 25 years: 10’ Tall x 3’ Wide

Cultivars 87
88 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Fastigiata
Cultivar: Buxus sempervirens ‘Fastigiata’

Zone: 6-8

Growth Rate: Fast to medium, 3 to 6 inches per year

Sun Exposure: Sun, part sun, or shade

Attributes: ‘Fastigiata’ is an outstanding upright cultivar.

The foliage is rich green with a hint of blue. Its true habit
is upright. Depending on the gardener’s preferences, this
boxwood can either be trained into a narrow column, a conical shape or, with
minimal pruning, it can be a broader columnar shape. It is an excellent choice for
narrow hedges or accenting a door or corner. Deer resistant.

Care: ‘Fastigiata’ responds well to pruning. Use hand pruners or shears.

Lightly prune in late winter or early spring to maintain density and desired
form. If winter snow or ice has damaged any limbs or pulled them out from the
plant, remove them. Thinning is not necessary but, as with any boxwood, will
help increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the interior of the plant. If
a narrow columnar or tight conical form is desired, training will be required.
Depending on growth and prior maintenance, a light annual pruning followed
by a heavier pruning every 3-5 years or so is necessary to maintain form and
minimize splaying due to snow and ice or even heavy wet foliage in spring. Little
or no pruning will yield a broader columnar habit. Understand that this habit
will lend itself to branches splaying out from the plant especially in frozen winter
precipitation or heavy new growth in late spring.

‘Fastigiata’ is somewhat resistant to boxwood leafminer and somewhat tolerant to

boxwood blight. It has few other pest or disease issues.

Comments: This is a very good upright boxwood. We have chosen to prune it

into a narrow column. Its foliage is slightly bluer than ‘Dee Runk’. ‘Fastigiata’ is
thriving in some of our personal gardens as a slender hedge.

Uses: Tall hedge, medium hedge, tall specimen, allée, foundation plant,
containers

Substitutes: ‘Dee Runk’, ‘John Baldwin’

• Size at 15 years: 6’ Tall x 2’ Wide*

• Size at 25 years: 10’ Tall x 2.5’ Wide*
*dependent on habit chosen

Cultivars 89
 BOXWOOD
Glossary of Terms
We have prepared the Boxwood Guide so you can quickly find the most
appropriate boxwood for your particular design needs and site conditions. When
consulting the Boxwood Guide, please keep in mind the following:

Zone
Included below is the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for the entire United
States. This map is also readily available on the Internet or in most horticultural
reference books. Please refer to it to be sure you choose the proper plant for
your particular zone. Each boxwood cultivar is listed with the zones the plant is
known to do well in.

Plant Hardiness Zone Map

Seattle

OLYMPIA

Missou
ri
Portland
Columbia
SALEM
HELENA

BISMARCK AUGUSTA

MONTPELIER

CONCORD
BOISE SAINT
PAUL
BOSTON
ALBANY
PIERRE
PROVIDENCE
Buffalo
Mississ

HARTFORD
ippi

MADISON LANSING

Detroit
NewYork
Missou

SALT Chicago
LAKE TRENTON
CITY DES HARRISBURG Philadelphia Average Annual Extreme
ri

CARSON MOINES
CITY CHEYENNE Pittsburgh Minimum Temperature
SACRAMENTO
1976-2005
LINCOLN DOVER
COLUMBUS Temp (F) Zone Temp (C)
San ANNAPOLIS
Francisco
INDIANAPOLIS WASHINGTON
DENVER -60 to -55 1a -51.1 to -48.3
SPRINGFIELD D.C.

Ohio -55 to -50 1b -48.3 to -45.6

CHARLESTON
TOPEKA RICHMOND
JEFFERSON 2a
SaintLouis FRANKFORT -50 to -45 -45.6 to -42.8
CITY

-45 to -40 2b -42.8 to -40

Las
Vegas Wichita
do

-40 to -35 3a -40 to -37.2

ra
lo
Co

RALEIGH
-35 to -30 3b -37.2 to -34.4
NASHVILLE
Los
Angeles Charlotte -30 to -25 4a -34.4 to -31.7
SANTA FE

OKLAHOMA -25 to -20 4b -31.7 to -28.9

CITY

LITTLE COLUMBIA -20 to -15 5a -28.9 to -26.1

San ROCK
Diego
PHOENIX
ATLANTA -15 to -10 5b -26.1 to -23.3

Birmingham
-10 to -5 6a -23.3 to -20.6
Mississ

Hawaii Tucson
MONTGOMERY
-5 to 0 6b -20.6 to -17.8
ippi

Dallas

JACKSON 0 to 5 7a -17.8 to -15

HONOLULU
5 to 10 7b -15 to -12.2

10 to 15 8a -12.2 to -9.4
TALLAHASSEE

0 25 50 100 BATON
ROUGE 15 to 20 8b -9.4 to -6.7
Miles
AUSTIN
Rio

Kilometers
9a
Gra

NewOrleans 20 to 25 -6.7 to -3.9

0 45 90 180 San
Houston
nd
e

Antonio
25 to 30 9b -3.9 to -1.1

Tampa
30 to 35 10a -1.1 to 1.7

35 to 40 10b 1.7 to 4.4

Puerto Rico 40 to 45 11a 4.4 to 7.2

Anchorage SAN JUAN
Miami
45 to 50 11b 7.2 to 10
JUNEAU
0 40 80 160
Miles 50 to 55 12a 10 to 12.8

Kilometers
0 50 100 200 0 75 150 300 0 10 20 40 55 to 60 12b 12.8 to 15.6

Alaska Miles Miles

Kilometers 60 to 65 13a 15.6 to 18.3
Kilometers Mapping by the PRISM Climate Group,
0 15 30 60
0 100 200 400 Oregon State University,
http://prism.oregonstate.edu, 2012
65 to 70 13b 18.3 to 21.1

Agricultural Research Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture

• Zone 4 (Average Annual Minimum Temperature -30° to -20°F)

• Zone 5 (Average Annual Minimum Temperature -20° to -10°F)
• Zone 6 (Average Annual Minimum Temperature -10° to 0°F)
• Zone 7 (Average Annual Minimum Temperature 0° to 10°F)
• Zone 8 (Average Annual Minimum Temperature 10° to 20°F)

90 BOXWOOD GUIDE
Growth Rate
This is an average growth rate and could vary depending on the soil,
weather, location, and individual gardening practices of your particular site. This
is a tool to allow the gardener the ability to compare cultivars on a similar scale.

Sun Exposure
Each cultivar is listed with Saunders Brothers recommendations regarding
sun exposure.

• Sun (Location is sunny from late morning to late afternoon)

• Part Sun (Location is shaded primarily from late morning to
late afternoon)
• Shade (Location has minimal direct sun)

Attributes
This section describes the cultivars’ overall attributes including specific
information on foliage, growth, and overall shape.

Care
Here we make recommendations on how to care for each cultivar including
pertinent information on pests or diseases. The pruning comments discuss
which boxwood can be sheared or thinned and which should not, as well as which
cultivars need annual pruning. Remember that care methods continually change
with site, weather, and individual gardening practices.

Comments
In the comments section, we supply additional information that we believe
is important to better understanding the plant. Also, you will find some personal
observations from Saunders Brothers. We feel the comments section is very
important to better understanding all we have to share about an individual
boxwood.

‘Vardar Valley’ and ‘Elegantissima’

Glossary of Terms 91
Uses
This section makes suggestions for possible uses of the boxwood cultivar
in the landscape. The gardener must consider characteristics before selecting
the appropriate boxwood for their needs. Remember, each location and use is
unique. Consult other gardeners to see what cultivars are most successful in your
area.

Uses listed include:

A specimen is a plant grown individually in a lawn or garden for
ornamental effect rather than being used as part of a group or mass. Specimens
serve as focal points in the landscape. An example of a specimen plant is a
flowering tree in a prominent spot on a lawn.

• Tall Specimen (Mature Size of 6’ tall or greater)

• Medium Specimen (Mature size of 3-5’ tall and wide)
• Small Specimen (Mature size of 1-3’ tall and wide)

An allée is a tall, straight line of shrubs or trees running along both sides
of a walk or road. The plants are typically of the same species or cultivar. An
allée (which translates to “avenue”) is used to announce the arrival to a garden or
other architectural feature.
A hedge is a wall of plants. Hedges vary in height depending on the use.
They can be planted to provide privacy, be decorative, or delineate a space. Take
proper care to choose the correct plant based on the desired look of the hedge.
Hedges can range from being tightly clipped to having an unclipped, more
natural look. If a highly-manicured look is desired, be sure to select a plant that
is responsive to pruning.

• Tall Hedge (Mature size of 8-12’ tall)

• Medium Hedge (Mature size of 4-8’ tall)
• Low Hedge (Mature size of 4’ tall or less)

Foundation plants are typically used around the base of a home. Their
functions include: transitioning from lawn to the home, softening hard lines
around corners of the home, and beautifying an entrance.
Edging (maximum mature size of 2’ high or wide) plants are used to create
a low, straight or ribbon-like border along a walkway, lawn, or garden. When
creating an edge, take care to select plants with smaller ultimate sizes. Edging
is typically clipped very tightly so select a plant that responds well to shearing.
When shearing edging, it is often preferred that the plant be shaped slightly
broader at the base than at the top to allow light to contact the plant more
uniformly. If the gardener prefers a more natural look, plant selection should
focus on varieties that have smaller ultimate sizes similar to the desired final size.
Note comments on thinning each cultivar.
A parterre is a formal garden with tightly clipped edges. Plants are
typically laid out in a very symmetrical pattern. The interior of the parterre can
be planted with a variety of plants including evergreen shrubs, annuals, herbs,
or perennials. A knot garden is very similar to a parterre garden but has a
distinctly woven pattern. Plant selection in a parterre or knot garden should
focus on varieties that have smaller mature sizes as well as plants that respond

92 BOXWOOD GUIDE
well to shearing. Note comments on thinning each cultivar.
Foliage from boxwood is often used as holiday decorations. Clippings
should be taken in late November or December. Reach into the interior of
the plant and cut stems 6-10 inches in length. This thinning process not only
produces material for decoration but also allows beneficial air movement and sun
penetration into the interior of the plant. Avoid heavy shearing of plants when
gathering these clippings. Some cultivars of boxwood produce more attractive
decorations due to foliage color and shape.
Boxwood are an excellent choice for use in a container. When planting in
a container, take care to select a container that is twice as large as the root ball
on the desired plant. This will allow several years of enjoyment of the finished
product. Be sure the container has drainage holes in the bottom. Although
boxwood are more drought-tolerant than many plants, be sure to provide
adequate water throughout the entire year including the winter.

Substitutes
This section suggests other possible boxwood to substitute when a certain
cultivar is not available or desired. Give consideration to each characteristic of
the boxwood before substituting. Remember, each location and use is unique.

Size
In this section the approximate 15 and 25 year old size of the boxwood is
listed. Remember, the size of a cultivar is greatly affected by gardening practices,
location, weather, and size and age of the plant at time of installation. We also
have included a sketch of the relative shape of each cultivar. See page 95 for a
relative scaled comparison of each boxwood.

Glossary of Terms 93
 BOXWOOD
Cultivar Summary
Blight Leafminer
Cultivar Page # Zone Exposure Tolerance Resistance
Buddy 63 6-8 SU, PS, SH + - + +
Chicagoland Green™ 67 5-8 SU, PS, SH + - - -
Dee Runk 87 6-8 SU, PS, SH + + +
Elegantissima 59 6-8 PS, SH - - +
Fastigiata 89 6-8 SU, PS, SH + + +
Franklin's Gem 43 5-8 PS, SH + + + +
Golden Dream 61 6-8 SU, PS, SH + + + +
Grace Hendrick Phillips 37 6-8 PS, SH - + +
Green Beauty 73 6-8 SU, PS, SH + + -
Green Gem 57 5-8 SU, PS, SH + - - -
Green Mound 69 5-8 SU, PS, SH + - -
Green Mountain 79 5-8 SU, PS, SH + - -
Green Pillow 39 5-8 PS, SH - + +
Green Velvet 65 5-8 SU, PS, SH + - - -
harlandii 51 7-9 PS, SH + + + +
insularis Nana 41 6-8 PS, SH + + + +
Jensen 53 6-8 PS, SH - - +
Jim Stauffer 83 5-8 SU, PS, SH + + +
John Baldwin 81 6-8 SU, PS, SH + + -
Justin Brouwers 47 6-8 SU, PS, SH - - - -
Little Missy 45 5-8 SU, PS, SH + + +
Morris Dwarf 35 6-8 PS, SH - - + +
Morris Midget 33 6-8 PS, SH - - +
Richard 49 7-9 PS, SH + + + +
sempervirens (American) 85 5-8 SU, PS, SH + +
Suffruticosa (English) 55 6-8 PS, SH - - + +
Vardar Valley 71 5-8 SU, PS, SH + - + +
Winter Gem 77 5-8 SU, PS, SH + + + +
Wintergreen 75 5-8 SU, PS, SH + + +

Boxwood Blight* Tolerance Key Exposure Key

Very Tolerant + + SU- Sun
Somewhat Tolerant + PS- Part Sun
Variable Tolerance/Susceptibility + - SH- Shade
Somewhat Susceptible -
Very Susceptible - -

Boxwood Leafminer** Resistance Key

Very Resistant + +
Somewhat Resistant +
Neither Resistant nor Susceptible + -
Somewhat Susceptible -
Very Susceptible - -

*Boxwood blight tolerance data based on multiple tests and observations from Saunders Brothers 2012-2017.
**Boxwood leafminer resistance data based on multiple tests from Saunders Brothers 2008-2016.

94 BOXWOOD GUIDE
 BOXWOOD
Cultivar Comparison

Morris Midget Morris Dwarf Grace Hendrick Phillips Green Pillow insularis Nana

Franklin’s Gem Little Missy Justin Brouwers Richard harlandii

Jensen Suffruticosa Green Gem Elegantissima Golden Dream

TM
Buddy Green Velvet Chicagoland Green Green Mound Vardar Valley

Green Beauty Wintergreen Winter Gem Green Mountain John Baldwin

Jim Stauffer sempervirens Dee Runk Fastigiata

Cultivar Comparison 95
 Saunders family circa 1906
In 1915, when our grandfather Sam and his brothers, Dick, Doc, Will, and
Massie, formed a partnership, family was the center of their business. The
brothers stood for integrity, morality, and honesty. Business deals were made
with a handshake or by a man’s word.
Today, brothers Tom, Bennett, Jim, and Robert, along with their father
Paul, continue that tradition. The Saunders family now extends beyond those
with the Saunders name. Our greater Saunders Family now includes employees
who are mothers and daughters, brothers and sisters, husbands and wives,
nephews, and cousins of many other families. We pride ourselves in the longevity
and dedication of our employees, many of whom have been a part of the
Saunders Family for over 20 years.
The farm now consists of a wholesale nursery, orchard, and farm market.
The wholesale nursery operation covers over 100 acres of container production
and 150 acres of field (in-ground) production. Our plants are distributed to
garden centers, landscapers, and re-wholesalers from the Mid-Atlantic States
to New England. Our 180 acres of peach, apple, pear, and nectarine orchards
provide fresh fruit for our Farm Market as well as other retail and wholesale
markets along the east coast.

Photo courtesy of Lee Luther Jr.

Saunders Brothers circa 2017

01/18

BOXWOOD GUIDE