Semester 2 2023
FASHION PRODUCTION &
QUALITY MANAGEMENT
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Report on the pre-production and production
process of an Apparel Manufacturing set up
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Under the Guidance of : Professor B. Venkatesh
Submitted By : Shresha Das, Smriti, Sonam Goutam & Surbhi Sinha
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would like to express our genuine appreciation and thanks to our concerned
faculty, Professor Venkatesh. You have been a remarkable mentor for us. We would
like to appreciate you for your guidance and constant supervision as well as
providing necessary information regarding the project and also for supporting us to
complete this assignment report. Your constant guidance and willingness to share
your vast knowledge made us understand this assignment and its manifestations in
great depths and helped us to complete the task on time. Your advice on the
assignment as well as on our career have been invaluable. We would also like to
thank you for your support and regular feedback and comments.
We would especially like to thank our fellow classmates and faculty members for
supporting us through all the ups and downs at National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Hyderabad and have willingly helped us out with their abilities.
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Table of
CONTENTS
03
APPAREL MANUFACTURING
UNIT
All about the production process involved in a Apparel
Manufacturing Unit along with a process flow chart.
07
PRE- PRODUCTION PROCESS
Explaining the initial pre production process that are carried out
before the bulk production of Apparel Order.
10
PRODUCTION PROCESS
Stepwise Process to execute the bulk production
of the Apparel Manufacturing
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POST- PRODUCTION PROCESS
All the after process in a Apparel Manufacturing Unit
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REFERENCES
The different sources from where the Data is collected
02
APPAREL MANUFACTURING
UNIT
1
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Apparel Production, also known as
garment production is the process of
converting fabric into garments. The term
apparel production is usually used when
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garments are manufactured in a factory.
The Garment Manufacturing process involved a number of processes from order receiving to
dispatching shipment of the finished garments. Traditionally, apparel manufacturing factories
have been divided into two sectors: domestic and export. Every garment merchandiser plays an
important role in completing the manufacturing process for the export orders. To perform all the
required functions for the export order, the garments merchandiser should follow a process flow
chart which will help him to do the right task at the right time.
A process flow chart helps to understand how raw materials are moved from one process to
another process until raw materials are transformed into the desired product (garments). Based
on the present apparel industry, garment manufacturing processes are categorized as:
Pre-Production processes: The processes that are done prior to the start of bulk garment
production are known as the pre-production processes.
Production processes: In the production stage, the bulk fabric cutting bundling and sorting
followed by the main activity is sewing of the garment.
Post-production processes: In the post-production stages, important activities include
quality check, finishing and packing.
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04
PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW CHAT
RECEIVING ORDER
FROM BUYER
SAMPLE FABRIC APPROVAL
TRIMS & ACCESSORIES
APPROVAL
DETERMINING COSTS
NEGOTIATION AND
FINAL ORDER APPROVAL
DEVELOPING PATTERNS &
GRADING
SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT
& APPROVAL
PREPARING TIME & ACTION
CALENDER
BULK FABRIC AND
ACCESSORIES BOOKING
PRE PRODUCTION MEETING
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MARKER MAKING FOR
BULK PRODUCTION
LAYING OF FABRIC
FOR CUTTING
NUMBERING, BUNDLING
AND SORTING
PRODUCTION LINE
SET-UP
IN LINE SEWING
INSPECTION
FINISHING
FINAL INSPECTION
PACKAGING
SHIPPING
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PRE PRODUCTION
PROCESS
2
Various departments divide the whole Manufacturing process into smaller parts which are again
controlled and managed by people designated under each departments to check proper and on
time completion of the task.The Pre- Production process starts once the Order is received.
1. Contact with the buyer for Order collection
It is the first process of a garment export order. At first,
the garments merchandiser has to contact the buyer for
order collection, once the manufacturing unit receives
the garments orders the actual process begins. Each
order contains a garments specification sheet for
different items or products along with the prints or
embroidery details with the colour pantone numbers.
2. Sample fabric production to Fabric
Department
The Sample department works in coordination with
merchandising department, they produce sample fabric
according to need of buyer for various testing such as,
GSM, shrinkage, blanket making for shade segregation,
color parameters of the fabric as required by the
customer .The Fabric Department will then receive the
fabric as per BOM , and again conduct fabric test e.g.
Shrinkage, colorfastness etc. Issue to the production
department as per the requirement of the Buyer.
3. Sourcing of Fabric and Trim & Approval
The factory needs to source fabrics as well as trims
according to the requirements of the buyer. Sourcing
include fabric selection zippers, buttons, labels, and
other trims. Approval is required from the buyer's end.
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4. Costing
The main aim of any business is to make profit. Hence,
correct costing of a product before finalization of an
order is quite crucial. Costing of garments is the
cumulative cost of raw materials, manufacturing cost as
well as margins.
After the development of samples or directly receiving a
buyer’s sample, the factory needs to send Freight on
Board (FOB) price of the garment. To figure out the FOB
of a garment the factory makes a cost sheet with details
of cost break up such as raw material cost, total of direct
labor and factory overheads.
5. Pattern making, correction of pattern,
pattern grading
A pattern master prepares the first fit pattern in the
factory. Then re-develop the pattern according to buyer’s
further comments and rectification on the fit sample.
After fit approval, pattern master grade pattern for size
set samples only for stated sizes. After the order gets
ready for production process they grade patterns for the
entire size range. For pattern making garment, factories
generally use CAD system in additional to the manual
pattern drafting and pattern grading.
6. Sample Development and approval from
buyer
Each sample developed in the apparel industry has a
certain purpose. The sampling department is responsible
for making the samples and all the physical samples are
sent to the buyers for approval. Concerned merchandiser
from buyer’s end check and review the garment samples
against the given design and tech-pack and provide their
feedbacks on them.
If the sample is not approved or further changes is
recommended by the buyer. Then corrections need to be
made & samples have to be re-submitted to the buyer.
In this stage, sample approval is taken for fabric
swatches, print colors, beadworks to even embroidery
designs. There are times, when factories even require to
take approval of trim cards.
- Proto Sample, Fit Sample, Pre-Production (P.P) Sample,
Size Set Sample,Shipment Samples etc
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7. Preparing Time & Action Calendar
To ensure a timely production and shipment of order,
preparing a time and action calendar is crucial. It involves
planning for production capacity, material sourcing and
line preparation. Allocation of jobs and responsibilities is
defined at this stage of the process.
8. Order Placement for fabrics, trims, packing
materials and accessories
After planning, sourcing is done for all the required raw
materials. Raw material includes fabrics, sewing threads,
hang tags, all kinds of trims, packing materials and other
accessories
9. Testing Process
All the physical properties of the fabrics and raw
materials are tested before bulk production. This is usually
done in the in-house testing labs.
10. Study of approved sample by PPC
(Production,Planning and Control)
Department
Technical team and industrial engineers study the
approved samples to understand the operation
breakdown, for calculating work content, identifying
critical operation and for line setting purpose.
11. Pre-Production Meeting
After getting the approval for pre-production sample (PP)
which is also known as sealer sample and sourcing of
trims. There is a meeting conducted by the merchants
known as pre-production meeting with the production
team, quality team and sourcing teams. In this, there is a
discussion done on all the important comments and
procedures given by the buyer to ensure a timely
production of the garments.
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PRODUCTION
PROCESS
3
The production process in the apparel manufacturing sector involves a series of activities that are carried out
after the pre-production phase. This phase is critical as it involves the actual creation of garments, and any
mistakes or delays can have significant consequences for the manufacturer's reputation and profitability. Here
are the essential steps involved in the production process:
1.Receiving Fabrics
Garment factories receive fabric from overseas textile manufacturers in large bolts with cardboard or plastic
centre tubes or in piles or bags. The fabric typically arrives in steel commercial shipping containers and is
unloaded with a forklift. Garment factories often have a warehouse or dedicated area to store fabric between
arrival and manufacturing.
2.Fabric Relaxing
“Relaxing” refers to the process that allows the material to relax and contract prior to being manufactured. This
step is necessary because the material is continually under tension throughout the various stages of the textile
manufacturing process, including weaving, dyeing, and other finishing processes. The relaxing process allows
fabrics to shrink so that further shrinkage during customer use is minimized.
Garment manufacturers perform the relaxing process either manually or mechanically. Manual fabric relaxing
typically entails loading the bolt of fabric on a spinner and manually feeding the material through a piece of
equipment that relieves tension in the fabric as it is pulled through. Mechanical fabric relaxing performs this
same process in an automated manner.
Many garment manufacturers will also integrate quality assurance into this process to ensure that the quality of
the fabric meets customer standards. This step is performed by manually spot-checking each bolt of fabric using
a backlit surface to identify manufacturing defects such as colour inconsistency or flaws in the material. Fabrics
that fail to meet customer standards are returned to the textile manufacturer.
Fabric Relaxing Machine
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3.Spreading, Form Layout and Cutting
After the fabric has been relaxed, it is transferred to the spreading and cutting area of the garment
manufacturing facility. The fabric is first to cut into uniform plies and then spread either manually or using a
computer-controlled system in preparation for the cutting process. The fabric is spread to:
(I) allow operators to identify fabric defects;
(ii) control the tension and slack of the fabric during cutting; and
(iii) ensure each ply is accurately aligned on top of the others.
The number of plies in each spread is dependent on the fabric type, spreading method, cutting equipment, and
size of the garment order.
Next, garment forms—or patterns—are laid out on top of the spread, either manually or programmed into an
automated cutting system. Lastly, the fabric is cut to the shape of the garment forms using either manually
operated cutting equipment or a computerized cutting system.
Fabric Spreading Machine Fabric Cutting Machine
4.Laying
The laying of a paper pattern helps one to plan the placement of the pattern pieces in a tentative manner.
(I(Lay large pieces first and then fit in the smaller ones
(ii) It is very economical in laying the pattern and cutting. Even a small amount of material saved in a single layer
will help to bring about a large saving of money as hundreds of layers of fabric will be laid and cut
simultaneously.
(iii) When laying, the length of the garment should be parallel to the selvedge of the material. Fabrics drape and
fall better on the lengthwise grain and also last longer.
(iv) Parts that have to be placed on the fold should be exactly on the edge of the fold.
(v) All laying should be done on the wrong side of the material.
(vi) When laying the paper pattern, consider the design of the fabric. Care should be taken to see that the design
runs in the same direction throughout the garment. All checks and strips should match the seams both lengthwise
and across.
Fabric Laying Machine
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1. Nap one way, face one way (NOW, F/O/W) 1. Nap one way, face one way (NOW, F/O/W)
2. Nap either way, face to face (NEW, F/F) 3. Nap one way, face to face (NOW, F/F)
4. Nap either way, face one way (NEW, F/O/W)
5. Marking
This can be a manual or a computerized technique
(I) The marker planner uses full-size patterns and arranges them in an economical manner on marker paper.
(ii) This is a specially printed paper having symbols on it which enable the marker planner to visually control the
positioning of components according to specified grain lines.
üMarkers produced on paper are fixed to fabric with pins, staples or on an adhesive paper which is heat sealed to
the top layer of the fabric.
(I) Marker planning provides details of the spreads. In the cutting room, the fabric is laid manually or a spreading
machine is used to arrange fabric inlays 100 (layers) and markers for the production, and in orders planned. Here
planning is done also for fusible, linings, trims, pocketing etc.
(ii) The supervisors of the marker planner plan and allocate the cut orders to various operations to be carried out in
the cutting room.
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Fabric Marker
6.Cutting, Bundling and Sorting
This is the major operation of the cutting room when they spread and cut into garments. Of all the operations in the
cutting room, this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify
serious defects.
(I) A first planning consideration is whether the totals arrived at in the cutting room are the same as those required
to maintain full production in the sewing room and subsequently the planned delivery schedule. Any cloth problems
created in the cutting room can affect the output in the sewing room. Assuming all components of fabric, design,
and trims are acceptable and correctly planned and cut, the next stage is to extend the cutting room programme
to the sewing room.
(ii) Straight knife cutting machines carry out all cutting operations.
Cutting Bundling
Sorting
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7.Sewing
Stitching or sewing is done after the cut pieces are bundled according to size, colour and quantities determined
by the sewing room.
Garments are sewn in an assembly line, with the garment becoming complete as it progresses down the sewing
line. Sewing machine operators receive a bundle of cut fabric and repeatedly sew the same portion of the
garment, passing that completed portion to the next operator. For example, the first operator may sew the
collar to the body of the garment and the next operator may sew a sleeve to the body. Quality assurance is
performed at the end of the sewing line to ensure that the garment has been properly assembled and that no
manufacturing defects exist. When needed, the garment will be reworked or mended at designated sewing
stations. This labour-intensive process progressively transforms pieces of fabric into designer garments.
(I) The central process in the manufacture of clothing is the joining together of components.
(ii) Stitching is done as per the specification given by the buyer.
(iii) High-power single-needle or computerized sewing machines are used to complete the sewing operation.
Fusing machines for fusing collar components, buttons, and buttonholes, and sewing machines for sewing
buttons and buttonholes are specifically employed.
Sewing Process
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POST PRODUCTION
PROCESS
4
1.Quality Control
It is realistic to assume that however well checking or quality control
procedures operate within a factory there will always be a certain
percentage of garments rejected for some reason or other. The best
way to carry out quality checks is by
(I) Establishing a standard as a criterion for measuring quality
achievement.
(ii) Production results can be measured and compared to the planned
quality standard.
(iii) Corrective measures to be carried out if there are any deviations in
the plans.
Ideally, any system should detect possible deviations before they occur
through forecasting. Work produced with minus defects will produce
quality products and enhance the economy and productivity.
2.Fusing and Pressing
Fusing and pressing are two processes which have the greatest influence on the finished look of a garment.
Fusing creates the foundation and pressing put the final seal of quality on the garment.
After a garment is fully sewn and assembled, it is transferred to the ironing section of the facility for final
pressing. Each ironing station consists of an iron and an ironing platform. The irons are similar looking to
residential models but have steam supplied by an on-site boiler. Workers control the steam with foot pedals and
the steam is delivered via overhead hoses directly to the iron. In most facilities, the ironing platforms are
equipped with a ventilation system that draws steam through the ironing table and exhausts it outside the
factory.
The basic components of pressing are:
(I)Steam and heat are necessary to relax the fabric and make it pliable enough to be moulded by manipulation.
(ii)Pressure: when the cloth has been relaxed by steam, the pressure is applied which sets the fibres into their new
positions.
(iii) Drying: After the application of steam and
pressure, the component or garment must be
dried and cooled so that cloth can revert to its
normal condition. This is done by a vacuum
action which removes surplus water from the
fabric and at the same time cools it. For some
pressure operations hot air or infrared heating
is used instead of vacuum for drying;
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(Machinery used for pressing and finishing are
(I)Hand irons with a vacuum press table
(ii) Scissors press
(iii) Carousel machines
(iv) Steam dolly
3.Cleaning and Laundey
In addition to identifying manufacturing defects, employees tasked
with performing quality assurance are also looking for cosmetic
flaws, stains, or other spots on the garment that may have occurred
during the cutting and sewing processes. Spots are often marked
with a sticker and taken to a spot-cleaning area where the garment
is cleaned using steam, hot water, or chemical stain removers.
Some customers request that a garment be thoroughly laundered after it is sewn and assembled; therefore,
garment factories often have on-site laundry or subcontract agreements with off-site laundry operations.
Commercial laundry facilities are equipped with at least three types of machines: washers, spinners, and dryers.
Some facilities also have the capability to perform special treatments, such as stone- or acid-washing.
Highly sophisticated washing machines do laundering if any articles are soiled during the manufacturing process.
However, this step is required only if the garments are soiled.
4.Packaging , storage and Shipment
In the last steps of making a product retail-ready, garments are folded, tagged, sized, and packaged according
to customer specifications. Also, garments may be placed in protective plastic bags, either manually or using an
automated system, to ensure that the material stays clean and pressed during shipping. Lastly, garments are
placed in cardboard boxes and shipped to client distribution centres to eventually be sold in retail stores.
Most garments are packed in plastic bags, either at the end of production or when they enter the finished goods
store. Products like shirts and underwear are usually bagged and boxed directly after final inspection and enter
the stores in prepacked form. For these and similar types of products, many automatic machines are used.
Other hanging garments such as Jackets, dresses & skirts are usually bagged by manual machines, semi-
automatic machines, and fully automatic machines. Some of these automatic machine’s bag, seal, and transport
in trolly; some 500 garments per hour.
When the boxed or hanging garment has to be transported in bulk the garment or boxes are packed into cartons
which can be sealed by adhesive paper or plastic Manual and automatic machines are available for both.
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REFERENCE
https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2013/05/garment-manufacturing-
process-flow-chart.html?m=1
https://startupfashion.com/step-by-step-guide-apparel-pre-production/
https://www.textileschool.com/amp/7421/pre-production-production-and-
post-production-process-in-garment-industry/
https://www.textileschool.com/193/garment-production-process/
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THANK
YOU
