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Volume 6 issue 4 - Winter 2011- £6.9

Watch heaven in Harrods ° Cartier s Time Art exhibition • Interview with Hublot’s Jean-Claude Biver °
80956"472878 The rise and fall of France's watchmakers • Zenith: a great manufacture returns to form
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1860 Edouard Heuer founded his workshop in the Swiss Jura.

1916 First mechanical stopvvatch accurate to 1/100th of a second.
1969 First automatic chronograph.
2011 TAG Heuer CARRERA Heritage Calibre 6.

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 ||| CONTENTS lli

1301
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Se
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The dial:
perfect craftsmanship on a minute scale

TRENDS & DEVELOPMENTS

18 A watch case is round, isn't it?

NEWS
EE

аш. <“ | ከ. Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin presents:

the Amvox5 World Chronograph LMP1
88 The latest news for your iPad or notebook
ም4 The results of Only Watch 2011
uğ
ን
96 Ladies First, for her eyes only

7888ዋ።ቹ።ሎ። REE EE ፍቹ ሁወ ወሉ EEE EERE ይዙ ONE EEE EERE E EEE EEE REET TEETER EERE EERE RETR EER тет» еттен неттен ወፍ ......................

R , 38 Cartier celebrates a spectacular heritage with

its TimeArt exhibition

Star Special: 46 The sound of the minute repeater

68 Watch heaven in Harrods
astronomical watches
20
40 The history of Edox
97 Breguet: the Classique Complication Le Réveil Musical

D INTERVIEW
ርጋ ን Ds нене

92 Jean-Claude Biver, Hublot: Ве first, be different and be unique"

56 A tribute to George Daniels (1926-2011)
86 Christopher Ward's value proposition
90 Zenith CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour on the past and future
of a famous brand

HISTORY
Т л ы ን ንንን ንን

98 The rise and fall of the France's watch glory, part 2

SERVICE
%%%%..................................ш.ш.......... ኤኤ ዜዴ EERE EEE EERE EEE PONT PL LE

81 Contact/subscriptions
93 WatchBank

| 1 00/24 WATCHWORLD | I | 1 11
RALPH LAUREN THE 867 WATCH
18K ROSE GOLD SQUARE MODEL. ULTRATHIN CASE. MANUAL WINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT.
131 COMPONENTS, 40-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SWISS MADE.

NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS LAS VEGAS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR LONDON PARIS CANNES
MILAN GSTAAD ST MORITZ TOKYO SHANGHAI HONG KONG MACAU SINGAPORE

RALPHLAURENWATCHES.COM
 (e WorldMags

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Contributing editors
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Kristian Haagen
dr. Jan C. Hubert (technical editor)
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 AP
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Le maitre de l’horlogerie depuis 1875

Jules Audemars
Dual Time to Millenary 4101

AUDEMARS PIGUET UK Ltd, Tel: +44 (0)20 7659 7300 - www.audemarspiguet.com

 ії РІ
KAREL HUBERT, INTERNATIONAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF TIMOTHY BARBER, EDITOR UK

ДІ
A NEW ERA ?r / WONDERFUL
When we started publishing our glossy watch magazine almost WATCH WORLD уу
12 years ago we intended "Horloges" (as it was then called) to be a Very few of the people 1 know who make a
truly international publication. Yes, it was published in Dutch, but the living from vvriting about fine vvatches began
articles were about watches, brands, history, technology and design. their journalistic careers with any expertise in
Only a small number of pages were dedicated to the Dutch and Belgian the area at all. For most of us it is something
watch scene. This focus on international content made it easy for us to that we chanced upon and looked into out of
start an English edition, which we did five years ago. The international strange curiosity. Before we knew it, wed
articles were translated and our experienced UK editor John Goodall tumbled down the rabbit hole.
made sure the UK watch world was well represented. In my case this happened a bit less than
Now, at the end of 2011, we may state 00/24 WatchWorld has become 4 years ago. As a features writer with a London
the ultimate international watch magazine. It is published in business newspaper wastasked with looking
seven countries — including Scandinavia — and we are proud to into this strange little world, and quickly
announce the birth of a North-American edition this month. Gary discovered it was less a world, more a universe

George Girdvainis has joined our team as publisher and American - a strange one, indeed, but a place full of

editor of this new edition. With a total circulation of approximately fascinating stories, compelling ideas and
70,000 copies, it has become the number one watch magazine. beautiful creations. | founded a watch
A magazine is a living thing. It grows, learns and eventually becomes supplement with that newspaper, began
mature. This will only work if it is produced by a group of people who freelancing on the subject, and have been

combine professionalism with passion, curiosity with the flexibility to going deeper down the rabbit hole ever since.
adapt to new challenges. So it is with great pleasure | can announce It is an honour to be taking on editing this
another improvement in our organisation. Experienced journalist and magazine from John Goodall and Im
watch lover Timothy Barber has joined our editorial team as our new UK looking forward to taking the magazine
editor; | thank John Goodall for all his efforts over the last years. It has into its next phase. | very much hope you
been a privilege working together with him. Nick Edgley, up untill now will enjoy reading our magazine, and
responsible for all our commercial activities in the UK, will from now on joining us on the journey.
be acting as publisher of our UK edition. With Nick and Timothy I’m sure
00/24 WatchWorld will become an even better magazine. Please take a International editor-in-
chief Karel Hubert gives
look at www.oo24watchworld.co.uk to find out more about our multiple his unvarnished opinion
about time-related mat-
activities and to follow Timothy's blog on watches. ters on the 00/24 Watch-
World website. Scan the
code with your mobile
phone for direct access.

16 кїї 00/24 WATCHWORLD 1 |

1000 AIGLIA 2006: =E т.

Jacky Ickx/K.-F. Scheufele

Porsche 550 A Spyder 1955
ems ШІП;
፡ግ 1

А”
CLASSIC RACING COLLECTION
1000 MIGLIA GT XL
 TRENDS & DEVELOPMENTS | | By Karel Hubert

A WATCH CASE IS
ROUND... ISN”T TT?
very year an estimated 1.2 billion watches are produced. The

E vast majority have a round case and around dial, but of course
there are exceptions. There are square, rectangular, octagonal
and dodecagonal cases. There are oval and tonneau-shaped cases
and cases shaped like a cushion. There are even vvatches with

triangular cases and some small brands have the courage to

create fantasy shapes. But for every vvatch vvith a different case

shape, another 999 vvith a round case see the light of day.

TIMOTHY BARBER
Editor oo/24 WatchWorld UK
“On the 17th of August 2011 the world lost Gérald
Genta. The genius designer whose geometric
obsession brought us two of the most famous
non-round watches, the Audemars Piguet Royal
Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Also Louis
Cartier is important, like the Tank, Tortue and
Santos vvatches. Interesting to note, that the brand
is novv making (very big) round vvatches. Perhaps
next year's celebration of the 4oth anniversary of
Genta's Royal Oak will inspire a few more designers
to step out of the circle once again."
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE

18111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 e I
“ጄድ "ma
‹ዛፎክፒላኣኒ

ENEVE

&MERCIER
AUME
B

BAUME & MERCIER HAMPTON

1/3 IS SOMETHING
This may be remarkable, but it is not inexplicable. OTHER THAN ROUND
Ever since the first church clocks in the 13th century It therefore has to be round, historical and practi-
% t
dials have been round, a logical consequence of the cal. But still, for manufacturers there is a good VFRANCK MUTLER CONQUISTADOR
circular path of the hands. It is therefore the shape reason to question this dogma. In the autumn of `
GRAND PRIX AUTOMATIC
of the dial that has determined the shape of the 2009 00/24 WatchWorld published an overview
case and not the other way around. You could say of the 100 most special watches: icons with res-
that we are so used to reading the time on a round pect to design and/or technology. In content this AROUND THE CLOCK
dial that watchmakers take quite a chance if they top-100 did not differ very much from what watch Movements, and especially electronic move-
want to confront us with a different shape. Which aficionados worldwide consider the Premier ments, can be made in any conceivable shape. In
is why all watches with non-round cases still have League of watches. And 33 of these 100 watches reality that means watch designers have total
a more-or-less round dial: the hour indicators are have... a case that is not round A considerable freedom when it comes to the shape of the watch.
still in a kind of circle, even in the case of the percentage of the vvorld”s top vvatches are there- It is often said that designers are increasingly
octagonal Royal Oak (Audemars Piguet), the square fore anything but round, from the Royal Oak to influenced by marketing people who think they
Hampton Square (Baume & Mercier), BR o the Nautilus, from the Reverso to the Monaco. know, in advance, what will and won't be success-
(Bell & Ross) and Classe Royale (Edox), the dode- Apparently a different case shape helps to create ful. From a statistical point of view a non-round
cagonal Admiral's Cup (Corum), the cushion-sha- the distinction that is so important in the market. case helps sell the better watches. But marketing
ped Senator Sixties Square Chronograph (Glashüt- And if that is taking things too far, striking people also know that the average customer is
te Original) and the tonneau-shaped Conquistador crowns or crown protectors also help to divert looking for anything but distinction. 1oe Bloggs
Grand Prix Automatic (Franck Muller). attention from the obligatory round shape. is quite happy with the round average. W

BRITTA ROSSANDER KRISTIAN HAAGEN EPPENISIOREEES

Editor-in-chief 00/24 WatchWorld Editor 00/24 WatchWorld Scandinavia Editor oo/24 Horloges the Netherlands
Scandinavia “Round and round it goes. But not alvvays. Look at “Round, square or tonneau-shaped.. What's better
"An analogue display through hands fixed in the Richard Mille’s tonneau-shaped watches. But then he from an aesthetic point of view is purely a matter of
middle of a circle gives a rounded form to the case. If introduced the round models RM 032 as well as the taste, and that is something personal. Moreover, a
the time display is digital, it is easier to play with the super slim RM 033, because he wanted to show that he non-circular case is no longer an exception: every watch
form of the case. But you can't forget user-friend- could create watches in different shapes than the collection has one different case shape, doesn't it? In
liness. The case must not rub, all the space in the case tonneau-shape. Indeed he created something diffe- terms of functionality there's one important thing: a
must be utilised for the movement, the time must be rent. He always has and, | hope, always will. There was round case with the same dial is — in my opinion - the
easy to read, etc. Hovvever, the square and rectangular a time when Planet Earth was thought to be flat. But best way to show what it is all about:time. For technical
cases are justifiable alternatives. One very successful then we got smarter. You could compare with that cer- reasons that can be questionable though, especially
case with an "eccentric" form is of course Reine de tain watchmakers’ ways of thinking. Not everything is when you add in complications. All these things make
Naples by Breguet which is in the shape of an egg." how it was. Nor should it be.” the choice for a round or square case very difficult."

(Ж) Do you want to know more about this topic? Karel Hubert and Kristian Наареп
have a blogbattle “The case is a coffin” on www.oo24watchworld.co.uk.
ə.” WATCHWORLD
 WorldMags
(ul NEWS ІІ By Karel Hubert

Super BREITLING (бе anagram

1 Colt HAUTLE CE
Breitling has completely redesigned the Colt and 2 HLQ Classic
has created a rugged, contemporary watch. Anagram enthusiasts will see it right away: Haut-
There are three versions: a 3-hand watch (the lence is an anagram of Neuchátel. Not a good one,
Colt 44, 44mm, with SuperQuartz movement, because the town name has an
GAD
on the “a” and
water resistantto 5oom, with date, prices start at Hautlence doesn't. And to confuse things even
£1,850), a chronograph (the Chronograph II, more, the brand today is based in La Chaux-de-
44mm, with SuperQuartz movement, water Fonds. But never mind. Fortunately it is an interes-
resistant to 300m, with date, prices start at ting brand which, since its establishment in 2001,
£2,300) and a ladies watch (the Colt 33, prices has been making watches that look truly different.
start at £1,750). All models are available with Take the HIQ Classic, for example. The time is
different coloured dials and straps or bracelets of shown on two separate dials for the hours and
leather, rubber or steel.
minutes. The jumping hours are displayed digitally,
while the minutes are shown on a retrograde scale.
The 44mm gold case has screwed-on lugs. Of this
| watch, which has a hand-wound manufacture
500M/ jener / | movement, 88 copies will be made.

ORIS and the RAID

Suisse-Paris Rally
3 RAID 2011 Limited Edition
Oris is a partner of the RAID Suisse-Paris Rally, a
rally from Basel to Paris that was first organised
in 1991 and in which only cars pre-dating 1975
can participate. Occasionally this results in tie-in
watches, in this case a chronograph and a watch
with a mechanical alarm that both get their
looks from the dashboard of the 1953 Austin
Healey 100M which won the rally in 2010. The
RAID 2011 will be produced in an edition of 500
copies with its steel case and automatic
movement. The alarm watch is even more
exclusive: only 50 pieces will be produced. Both
watches feature the RAID Suisse-Paris logo on
the case-back and are presented in a beautiful
wooden case. Price: approximately £2,750.

RONOGRAPH
triple-certified
SN TOMATIC
4 L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon
This is the first watch with three certifications:
——
`
COSC, the Geneva Seal and the Fleurier Quality
"nr
i Label. Obviously this is proof of the high quality
of the watch, but should we expect anything less
from Chopard? The 43mm case is made of rose
gold, while the hand-wound movement is a
proprietary LUC manufacture calibre and a
tourbillon, with a diameter of 29.7mm. Thanks to
4 serial-linked spring barrels this movement has
a 9-days power reserve. The watch is limited to
100 pieces. Price: 120,000 Swiss francs.

5 xL

20 111 | 00/24 WATCHWORLD| |

 WorldMags

а “መኩ ር HERMES SELLIER - HERMES HORLOGER ей:

ARCEAU GRANDE LUNE

Steel case, mechanical self-winding
movement, moon phases, alligator strap
| Crafted by Hermés watchmakers in Switzerland
| | www.hermes.com

‫سے‬ ——

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Minute repetition JAEGER-LECOULTRE

at EDOX doubles
1 Cape Horn 5 Minute Repeater 2 Duomètre à Quantième
Edox is increasingly becoming a technically inte- Lunaire Limited Edition
resting brand. The new Cape Horn 5 Minute Repea- At the 2007 introduction of the first Duometre
ter is a good example. This watch features an Edox Jaeger-LeCoultre indicated that the movement,
87 movement in a 45mm steel case;this is the auto- with what is essentially a dual power system,
matic ETA calibre 2892-A2 with a module that was was devised to give complications their own
made by Dubois Dépraz and houses the so-called power source so that the normal movement
5 minute repeater. With this complication, which can continue to function uninterruptedly and
was invented by Samual Watson in 1710, it is pos- therefore more accurately. Consequently, new
sible to make the time audible: the system strikes Duometre variants with complications
the hours and the number of times that 5 minutes continue to be revealed.
have passed. It is an interesting alternative on
the normal minute repetition (which strikes the The Duometre à Quantiéme Lunaire Limited
hours, quarter-hours and minutes that have pas- Edition is the latest. The hand-vvound calibre
sed after the quarter-hours) and the Répétition à 381 with two independently functioning zero while leaving the escapement running.
Quarts, known from Chronoswiss, among others, spring barrels (you wind them by rotating the Pushing the crown reactivates both hands
which strikes the hours and quarter-hours. This crown clockwise and anti-clockwise) shows simultaneously making it possible to set the
movement, which was previously used by Edox in the time using two seconds hands. One is a time exactly. The movement also shows the
earlier limited editions (and which shows strong central hand, the other a jumping seconds date and the moon phase; the latter is so
similarities to an older movement that Dubois hand showing 1/6th of a second increments; accurate that it only needs to be adjusted once
Dépraz made for Kelek) can be seen in all its glory the mechanism of this seconds hand links the every 3 years (using a push-button at
through the transparent dial. The balance wheel is two drives together and this linkage makes it w 12 o'clock). The 42mm case is made of white
visible through a "porthole" in the case-back. The possible to stop the time display while the gold. This Duométre à Quantieme Lunaire will
5 Minute Repeater will be produced in an edition movement continues to tick as usual. Pulling be produced in an edition of 200 pieces and is
of 30 pieces. Prices start at £15,500. out the crown resets both seconds hands to available for approximately £27,500.

22pp i OO/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 (ር WorldMags

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BELL & ROSS

is feeling blue
3 BR 03 Blue Ceramic
The number of variants on the family of square
Bell & Ross watches, which started long ago with
the BR o1, is huge by now. The variety comes
mainly from the use of different materials and
dial colours. Take the new BR 03 Blue Ceramic,
for example. The case is made of blue ceramic
material and measures 42 x 42mm. The black
dial has the characteristic big numerals at 12, 3,6
and 9 o'clock, this time in blue Luminova, which
also covers the indicators. The rubber strap is
also blue. The case houses the automatic ETA
calibre 2892. Prices start at £2,550. 5 Vintage VVVV1 Heritage
This is a vvatch that, vvith regard to its design,
4 BRS harks back to the First VVorld VVar. The Heritage
This year Bell 8: Ross also expanded the BR S line. has a black steel case and a dial with the two
The BR S Heritage has a ceramic case made of concentric rings that vvere typical of the dual
ceramic and the BR S Steel - you guessed it - hasa scale of that era. There is also a version vvith a
case made of steel, The vvatches in the collection matt grey case and an old looking strap, the
are available from £1,350-2,200. Military. Prices start at £1,900.

I 1 00/24 WATCHWORLD 1111 23

 WorldMags
NEWS İri

|
RADO

|
|d
:1ГЕ
T

RADO'S
thinnest watch
1 True Thinline
The watch world loves records and if there is a
record to be claimed, it will do so. According to
the manufacturer the new Rado True Thinline
is the "thinnest high-tech ceramic watch in the
world”. We believe them. There are a few
different models in black and white: the
ceramic case of the very thinnest model is
4.9mm thick, the quartz movement measures
1.2mm and the watch itself weighs 35g (available
for approximately £1,150). There is also a version
in black with an automatic movement (ETA
calibre 2892-A2) and a rubber or ceramic strap.
Although this version is still called the True
Thinline, it is 775mm thick and costs
approximately £1,200.

100 years of EBEL

2 Classic Sport Chrono
In the year the brand turns 100, Ebel upholds a
simple principle: the past is simply too beautiful
to not revive. And so a chronograph with classical
lines has been made to reinforce the Classic Sport
line. The 41mm case is made of polished and
brushed steel and the bracelet comes from the
well-known steel model. A rubber strap is also
available, with a folding clasp. There is a choice of
a black or silver-coloured dial. The movement is
HAMILTON 15 going
Ebel's quartz calibre 503. The Classic Sport Chrono
costs approximately £1,700.
back to the 1940s —

4 Khaki UTC |
Special CONCORD Hamilton continues to look for and
inspiration for its new models in its own past.
find

chronograph The new Khaki UTC is based on models that

Hamilton made for the aviation and shipping
3 C2 Neo Black industry back in the 1940s. A steel case (42mm,
The Concord C2 is one of the most remarkable water resistant to 300m) houses the automatic
chronographs of recent years. This is purely ETA calibre 2893 which has the time in a second
because of the design of the case and lugs, becau- time zone as an extra function. This second time
se the movement (ETA calibre 2894-20) is good but is adjusted using a push-button at 2 o'clock. The
nothing special. In this latest version the 43mm auxiliary time zone is displayed using a three-
steel case has been given a black PVD coating, the letter airport code in a window next to the
dialis black and the black rubber strap has a black crown, which is located at 9 o'clock. There is a
steel folding clasp. The small seconds hand is not choice of a white, silver-coloured or grey dial.
a hand at all but a rotating disk. The chronograph The strap is made of rubber or leather. Prices
is water resistant to 100m. Prices start at £4,000. start at £800.

24111 OO/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 real watches ©, real people

Oris ProDiver Col Moschin

Automatic mechanical movement
Double power reserve indicator
Automatic helium valve
Water resistant to 1000 meters
www.oris.ch
 WorldMags

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BAUME & MERCIER

and Hampton Beach
1 Hampton
The Hampton has alvvays been one of the most
important models for Baume & Mercier. Well,
maybe not always... The brand has existed since
1830 and the first Hampton dates from 1994. For
the new collection, of course once again with the
characteristic rectangular case, designer Alexan-
dre Peraldi was inspired by the sunny weather on
the coast of Hampton Beach and by a classic Bau-
me & Mercier watch from the 1940s. Curved lines, line is an aviator's watch that has been given а
elegant shapes and classical, plain dials characte- hand-wound Unitas 6498-2 movement. The 45mm
rise these new models. There are men's and case is made of matt steel. The strap is hand-made
women's models: the men's line consists of an from shell-cordovan. The price is a tidy £1,300.
automatic watch (ETA calibre 2895) with a small Wempe watches are sold in the Wempe shops in
seconds hand and a chronograph (ETA calibre Germany (15 locations), Paris, Vienna, Madrid and
2894) with a slightly bigger case. There is a choice New York. See page 46 for an in-depth feature on
of steel and rose gold. Prices start at £900. the expansion of Wempe's London boutique.

WEMPE. GRAHAM .
is the [ime Master takes a dive Á Silverstone Stowe GMT Blue 8: Yellow
New in Graham's Silverstone collection is the
2 Zeitmeister 3 Chronofighter Oversize Diver Silverstone Stowe GMT Blue & Yellow, which
When German jeweller Wempe returned to making We don’t want to be petty about it, but we have stands out right away because of the colour
watches the brand quickly became popular. That's never yet seen a plane that can dive as well as fly. combination on the carbon dial. Apart from the
partly due to the fact that the antique observatory And we don’t mean dropping a few thousand feet in yellow hands that indicate the hours, minutes
in Germany's watch paradise Glashütte was pain- the air, but a proper underwater dive. Apparently, and seconds the watch also has a number of
stakingly restored and turned into the official however, Graham wants to make us believe that subsidiary dials for the 30-minute and 60-seconds
headquarters of the Wempe watch division, as well such a thing does exist, with its new Chronofighter counter, a tachymeter scale - useful for measuring
as becoming the official chronometer testing insti- Oversize Diver. This is the youngest scion in the the time over a certain distance - and a double
tute. Even its beautiful telescope was restored. New family of Chronofighter pilot watches, with their date aperture. The outer ring of the dial shows the
in Wempe's popular Zeitmeister line is a model striking trigger for operating the chronograph. The time in a second time zone. The 48mm case
with a big time and date indicator in two time movement is a G1734, which is based on a Valjoux houses the G1721 calibre. The movement has a 48-
zones. The 42mm steel case has the modified auto- 7750. The watch, with the big 47mm steel case with hour power reserve. A striking yellow stripe has
matic ETA calibre 2892-A2, which has been certified black PVD coating, features a helium valve and has been incorporated in the black rubber strap with
in accordance with German chronometer require- a black rubber strap with ceramic clasp. It is water its tyre profile. The watch is available in a limited
ments. Prices start at £1,900. Also new in the same resistant to 330m and costs 10,500 Swiss francs. edition of 250. Price: 9,900 Swiss francs.

26111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 WorldMags

TAG HEUER |
renews the Link
D -8 Link
The Link made its debut in 1987 under the
secretive name "S/el" (Sport & Elegance). In 1999
TAG Heuer completely redesigned the model and
named it“Link” Interesting detail: initially the S/el
was not very popular but by the start of the 1990s
the line made up 40% of the brand's turnover. The
secret: the bracelet vvith its steel links consisting
of two S-shaped segments. It was and still is the
most comfortable metal bracelet ever made. In
2007 another special model was added, a TAG Heuer has made four models of the new Link.
chronograph with the rapidly ticking calibre S The chronograph (7) with calibre 16 has a 43mm
movement. case. There is a watch (8) with calibre 6 and a
small seconds hand, date and 40 mm case.
And now there is the new Link. The bracelet has Another model (6) with calibre 5 has a big seconds
been subtly restyled, but has kept its special hand and big day and date indicators. The top
shape. The case was redesigned and is no longer model is a chronograph (s) with a perpetual,
entirely made of brushed steel but is partially retrograde calendar. The 43mm case has the
polished. The bezel features engraved numerals aforementioned electromechanical calibre s,
filled in with black lacquer. The most striking which enables time measurement to 1/100th of a
innovation: the dial (black or silver) has a vertical second. All Link models are water resistant to
line pattern and a monochrome, hand-engraved 100m. The Link models costs approximately:
TAG Heuer logo. The hour indicators are made of calibre 5 £1,900, calibre 6 £1,800, calibre S £2,100
polished steel. and calibre 16 £2,500.

I | 00/24. WATCHWORLD +. 27
 WorldMags
NEWS İri

Limited FORTIS "normal" dial and it is almost impossible to tell

that it is actually a solar panel. Two chrono-
1 B-42 Big Date graphs with a steel bracelet or a leather strap
Fortis will not be celebrating its 1ooth and two titanium models, a chronograph and an
anniversary until next year, but is anticipating analogue watch, have been added to the Solar
this big occasion with a limited edition, the B-42 collection. The watches are available from a very
Big Date. It is a classical pilot watch that closely reasonable £260.
follows the other B-42 models, but has a big day
and date indicator at 9 and 3 o'clock. When you
buy the watch you can choose whether you BULOVA ACCUTRON
would like to be told what day it is in German or
English. The case is made of brushed steel or
one happy island
black coated steel. There will be 500 copies made 3 Cu racao
of each version. The automatic movement is the Bulova Accutron was named after Joseph Bulova,
F2014 calibre based on an ETA movement. The who immigrated to the United States in 1870
strap is made of leather with contrasting white from Bohemia (a historical region in
stitching. Price on application. Czechoslovakia, now the Czech Republic). In 1875
he opened a jewellery store in Manhattan, New
York, and in 1911 Bulova started making watches

SEIKO 15 aware of and clocks. A year later he opened a branch in the

Swiss town of Biel/Bienne, where movement
the environment components were produced and movements
assembled. Bulova grew into a major brand, also
2 Solar
as a result of its innovative marketing (in 1941
There is no getting away from it any more: every-
Bulova broadcast the world's first TV
thing is "green" these days. Organic products,
commercial!) and social commitment. For
cleaner fuels, more economic use of gas, water
example, in 1945 the company opened a
and electricity... Seiko has been aware of this
watchmaking school to be able to give wounded
concept for a while, because in 1977 the brand
American soldiers a new start in life. Bulova was
introduced its first Solar watch. Since then the
a highly innovation-oriented company that
concept has been developed further and further,
produced the first electric clocks in 1932, followed
with the major breakthrough being the "solar
in 1961 by the Accutron, a watch with an
cell”, which is capable of creating energy
electronictuning fork movement. These days the
from all kinds of light. This means
name of that legendary watch is incorporated in
the battery never needs to be
the brand name.
x replaced and the vvatch is
With its new Curacao collection Bulova Accutron
w ŞI maintenance free. The
introduces a series of diver's watches that are water
на S new Solar has a
`2. \
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. «BV
42mm steel case with or without a black or rose
v? AKT gold PVD coating. There are two models: a watch
|ለአሬ.
ር with a mechanical, automatic Sellita calibre
SW200 and a chronograph with the Ronda 5030.D
yı,
#Л
quartz movement. These watches come with a
metal or rubber strap. Prices start at £1,100.

М 7- - - е е | a

ALPINA
b 7
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BE. 4
clocks the stars
4 Startimer Manufacture
Only 888 copies will be made of this watch and
BULOVA
ACCUTRON that is a pity, really, because it is too beautiful
for restrictions. The Alpina Startimer Manufac-
ture was designed to celebrate the sth anniver-
sary of the Alpina manufacture (and that of
parent brand Frédérique Constant). It is a clas-
sically styled watch with a 44mm rose gold
case. The automatic movement is visible
through the sapphire crystal case-back. The
leather strap does not close at the inside of the
wrist as usual, but at the top. Alpina supplies
the watch in a special box with a scale model of
a Cessna Citation Mustang aircraft to underline
the collaboration with the aircraft manufactu-
rer and aviation company PrivatAir. Price:
approximately £6,800.

28111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

ONLY ONE WATCH MANUFACTURE CAN SHOW YOU THIS.

London Boutique
IA Old Bond Street
WIS 4PA Mayfair, London
(0)20 7491 6970
www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
 WorldMags

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Redesign of the
AEROWATCH 1942
1 1942
The small and sophisticated Aerovvatch has
updated its 1942 chronograph. The brand, which
was established in 1910, introduced the 1942 line
seven years ago. This watch, which will be made in
an edition of 500, has a neatly decorated, automatic
Valjoux 7751 movement, a 42mm steel case with a
sapphire crystal case-back and a brown leather
strap with folding clasp. Price on application.

UHR with а
Valjoux / 7/50
2 UHR 461 OMEGA
In Germany there are quite a few people who
combine their knowledge of watches with
and the Apollo 15 of six journeys to the moon. It is a classical
Speedmaster with a brushed and polished
business acumen. One of them is Rudolf Fischer 3 Speedmaster Moonwatch "Apollo steel case and bracelet, an aluminium bezel
from Flein. He is the man behind UHR, a watch 15" 40th Anniversary Limited Edition insert and an unbreakable crystal of hesalite.
brand that has made it its objective to make The fact that Omega and NASA have a close The minutes scale is blue, white and red, the
tried-and-tested technology available at bond is no secret to anyone. The fact that the colours of the Apollo 15 mission patch. The
remarkably low prices. Take the new UHR 461, brand enjoys reminiscing about this bond is rings around the subsidiary dials for the
for example. It is a sturdy chronograph in a steel also obvious. They are doing so once again seconds, 12-hour and 30-minute counters also
case and with a steel bracelet. The case in with the Speedmaster Moonwatch "Apollo 15" have these three colours. Engravings on the
question houses the most renowned chrono 40th Anniversary Limited Edition, a watch that case-back recall the Apollo mission. A total of
movement of all times, the Valjoux 7750. The memorises the fact that the Apollo 15 was 1,971 copies of the Speedmaster will be made.
watch costs approximately £400. launched 40 years ago as the fourth in a total Price: approximately £3,800.

ЗО 111 OO/24 WATCHWORLD | |

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МАЇТВЕ5 DU TEMPS FRÉDÉRIC JOUVENOT central cartouche fitted with an index that

works with rolls looks for the sun completes a revolution on the fixed minute disc.
The movement has a black gold balance and is
4 Cha pter One Ó INTI hand-wound. The heliocentrical complication
Inthis young brand the experiences of a number of Jouvenot is not your archetypical watchmaker. He requires a hundred additional components. The
ingenious watchmakers are combined. It leads to trained as a micromechanical engineer and 44mm case is made of rose gold. A total of 88 copies
unique creations. Chapter One is the work of therefore looks at movements from a completely of this watch will be made. Price on application.
Christophe Claret, Peter Speake-Marin and Steven different angle. After working at Minerva for some
Holtzman. The hand-wound movement with
tourbillon is made of 558 pieces and shows you the
time he began studying complications. In 2008 he
started for himself and in 2010 he was able to set HIRSCH
actual time and uses a retrograde mechanism to
show the time in a second time zone and the date.
up Jouvenot Manufacture S.A. in La Chaux-de-
Fonds with the financial assistance of, among
provides comfort
Especially the way the date and the moon phase others, Archduke Cal Beier von Habsburg- 7 Lord
are shown needs some extra attention: by means Lothringen. Here, special watches are designed Folding clasps have been around for a while. They
of two rollers at the top and bottom of the case! and produced in small numbers. The new INTI are available in all kinds of shapes but... they are
That case is made of white or red gold, or titanium. (named afterthe sun god ofthe Incas) is the world's always made of metal. However practical this
first watch with a jumping heliocentrical hour may be, it often makes them less comfortable
D Cha pter Two display.Just so you know. Each hour is indicated by when it comes to wearer convenience. Hirsch (est.
Chapter Two is the work of Daniel Roth and a sun ray that comes from the centre of the dial. 1765) is putting an end to this. The solution is
Peter Speake-Marin and the watch uses also the The twelve sun rays show the bright side of life, as simple: the folding clasp, named Lord, is made of
construction with the roll, but for the day of the it were. At midday all the rays are bright gold to leather like the strap, with a metal press stud that
week and the month. The watch with automatic symbolise the sun at its zenith. As time marches on does not touch the wrist. The calfskin strap costs
movement has a white gold case. the rays turn black one by one and at midnight approximately £85 and is available in six colours.

| 1 00/24. WATCHWORLD 2431

 NEWS İri ጨጨ
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HUBLOT
heads out to sea
| CFCYCdM
The full name on its birth certificate reads "Hublot
Classic Fusion Chronograph Yacht Club de Monaco",
hencethe acronym in the headline. Hublot has been
the official time keeper for the yacht races of the
prestigious club since 2005. To celebrate the tenth
anniversary of the so-called Classic Week, Hublot
came up with a special watch. The 45mm case is
polished titanium and the movement has an auto-
matic HUB1143 calibre with a date indicator. The
dial, of course, is blue.Strangely enough the watch is
water resistant to 50 metres. Price on application.

New Turbines
from PERRELET
The Turbine is one of the visual highlights of
3 Turbine Poker
modern watchmaking thanks to the double rotor
The Turbine Poker has a smaller 44mm case and
that has made Perrelet famous and, in the Turbine,
the dial underneath the turbine features images of
has been incorporated in such a way that the rota-
playing cards. The gimmick: by shaking the watch
tion reveals a spectacle on the dial that resembles а
a random card comes up when the rotor stops tur-
slowly turning turbine wheel in a jet engine. Per-
ning. There are three versions, with different card
relet is obviously enjoying making the best use of
combinations. Price: approximately £3,700.
this principle in a number of special models.

1160,
2 Turbine XL America 4. Turbine Golden Bullet A /;
In the Turbine XL America the rotor with its 12 Thelatest newcomer is the Turbine Golden Bullet.
blades spins on top of a dial with the red and This watch plays with gold: a central ring as the
white stripes of the American flag. The internal heart of the turbine; the hour indicators and
bezel features the stars of that same flag. The DLC- hands are gilded. The dial also has gold elements,
blackened steel case has a diameter of 5omm. Per- which you can see when the turbine is spinning.
relet will produce 777 copies of this watch (per- Of this watch with its 44mm case (DLC-blackened
haps a reference to the Boeing of the same name), steel) 888 copies will be made (and that is defini-
with a strap made of black rubber. Price: approxi- tely not a reference to any Boeing). Price: approxi-
mately £4,300. mately £3,700.

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32EP i 00/24 WATER

Montblanc®
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EXOTOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPHE. | The ExoTourbillon

Chronographe is the first timepiece in the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 to
unite a tourbillon and a chronograph function. It is the world’s first tourbillon having
a balance, being larger than the cage, that oscillates outside of the cage on a higher
plane — thus giving rise to the name ExoTourbillon. An innovation so unique a
patent has been applied for. Montblanc manufacture calibre MB M16.60. Monopusher
chronograph with regulator-style dial, four-minute tourbillon, 30-minute counter and
second time zone with day/night display. 47 mm white gold case. Crafted in the Montblanc
Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie in Villeret, Switzerland. MONTBLANC. A STORY TO TELL.

MONT”
BLANC
LONDON OLD BOND ST - HARRODS - SELFRIDGES - SLOANE ST - ROYAL EXCHANGE
CANARY WHARF - WESTFIELD - SELFRIDGES BIRMINGHAM - HARVEY NICHOLS MANCHESTER

MONTBLANC.COM - 020 8332 4552

 ІІІ CRAFTSMANSHIP EH By Karel Hubert, pictures Jaeger-LeCoultre

THE MIRACLE THAT IS

. THEWATC

34111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 WorldMags

trictly speaking a watch doesn't need a dial. We are so familiar with the position of the

hands that we could easily do without a scale of numerals and/or dashes. However, when it

comes to the design and appeal of a watch, the dial becomes all important.

So many watches, so many dials. The variations brass, lacquered, sprayed or electrochemically simpler versions nearly always come from
are endless. Hundreds of thousands of different treated. Fortunately the craftsmanship needed specialist companies, just like in the early days
dials must have been designed and produced to produce enamelled dials has survived in the of clockmaking. Increasingly, however, the
over the past decades. We can call it perfect smaller studios. major watch groups have been ensuring
craftsmanship on a minute scale, because a their supply by taking over these kinds of
round dial with a 40mm diameter has a surface DETAILING specialists. For example, in 2006 the Swatch
area of just 12.5cm”. That's small enough to fit It is not only the classical, enamelled dial that Group took over the renowned dial producer
12 numerals and a few dashes onto it, but it usually comes from a supplier; even the MOM Le Prélet.
becomes an almost bizarre size if you are trying
to put a painting onto it.

SPECIALISATION
It so happens that the manufacture of dials was
about the first specialisation in the clock and
watch industry that was carried out by external
masters rather than watchmakers. In the early
days the clock dials were understandably plain,
but as they became more decorative, more
artistic talents were required. The dials for
clocks and pocket watches were made almost
exclusively of thin, enamelled iron. This surface
was also excellent for painting, with glass
particles that were applied colour by colour and
melted into the background. This is how the
decorative, painted dial that was to become
especially popular in France was being made as
early as the 17th century.

BRASS
The growth of the American watch industry in
the 19th century caused a major change.
American producers considered it unacceptable
that so much went wrong in the manufacture of
enamelled dials, which were produced in ovens
at very high temperatures. This slowed down
the watch production considerably. As an
alternative the Americans developed a metal
dial that was punched out. The numerals were
then simply stamped into the dial. Eventually
this technology was adopted in Switzerland as
well and it is how the dial that is still used most
frequently today was developed: a thin sheet of

İ I 00/24 WATCHWORLD BS Go
 ІІІ CRAFTSMANSHIP Hi

Зб 1111 00/24 WATCHWORLD| |

 subsequent assembly onto the platine.
Sometimes the identifying mark of the dial
manufacturer can be seen on the back of the
dial. Dials can be further detailed in various
stages of the production. They can be engraved,
pearlised, skeletonised, faceted or ground.

PAINTING
These days numerals, indicators and logos are
often printed onto the dial using a pad and
paint. In this process the numerals and
indicators are machine-milled from a sheet of
metal, or chemically etched and filled in with
paint. A rubber pad is then pressed against the
metal to copy all the numerals and indicators.
By pressing the pad onto the dial the image is
transferred.
More expensive (and better looking) is the
method of making indicators and numerals
from metal and applying them to the dial
These days all kinds of modern techniques are manually. And at the top of the class are the
used in the manufacture of dials. In most cases dials that are completely hand-made. These
it works as follows: the basic material is brass, may be versions made of precious metals, then
which is punched into the desired shape. In the engraved and detailed, mounted with
next step the holes for the spindle that holds diamonds, cut out of mother-of-pearl or all
the hands are punched or drilled out, along kinds of other beautiful finishes.
with other elements like date windows. Next But even in 2011, enamelled dials that are made
the brass is ground flat and polished. If in small editions remain special. Even more
necessary the spaces for subsidiary dials are exclusive is a dial that is manually painted with
hollowed out. After comprehensive chemical enamel using the traditional techniques. Only a
cleaning a thin layer of silver is applied and few brands, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, still
subsequently brushed. This is followed by a honour this tradition and employ in-house
wafer-thin layer of copper, silver, gold or specialists. Others, like Bovet, also offer hand-
rhodium, which is subsequently coated in a painted dials, but these are not done in enamel.
special lacquer. Numerals and other indicators The customer can supply his own design - a
can be printed onto this lacquer. This can be picture of his daughter - or simply ask for an
done even if the dial is spray-painted in a existing painting to be copied in miniature.
particular colour. On the reverse of the dial two Anything is possible but one thing is certain: a
pins are usually soldered into place for unique dial will always be very expensive. İM

İ I 00/24. WATCHWORLD
 LAUSEPOR IE By Timothy Barber

CARTIER LOOKS FORWARD

BY LOOKING BACK
hought Cartier was a jewellery brand that also

makes watches? Its unique Time Art exhibition,

set to tour the globe for the next three years, will

make you think again.

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beautifully rendered enamels, what stands out is

a small, square, and by contrast rather plain,
wrist watch.

ALBERTO SANTOS-DUMONT
Amidst a veritable cloudburst of exotic, artful
creations, it is distinct not just for its plainness
but its familiarity. Anyone even half-interested
in watches will have seen it dozens of times, in
watch shops, in airport boutiques, in adverts.
It is Cartier's square, screws-in-the-bezel Santos
watch, a mainstay of the brand's collection - and
it has barely changed in a century. It was, and is,
the original Cartier wrist watch.
The first was produced for Louis Cartier's friend,
the playboy aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, in
1904. The watch, powered by a Jaeger movement
(as were all Cartier's watches at the time), went

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38 1111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

POCKET WATCH WITH MINUTE REPETITION (1927) ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTRORÉGULATEUR ID ONE CONCEPT VVATCH

into production in 1911, and was arguably the there are plenty) who thought Cartier was a in the exhibition amid holographic animations
first wrist watch that didn't look like a pocket jewellery brand that happens to make watches, of the movement's workings. These include the
watch, with the integration of the strap an the exhibition is proof positive of a tremendous Astroregulateur, an alternative to the tourbillon
essential part of its case design. horological legacy, and one that isn't just about in which the escapement components are placed
The one on display in Cartier's dazzling Time Art style. A room dedicated to the famous, incredibly on the oscillating mass of the winding system,
exhibition dates from 1916, the period when rare Cartier mystery clocks, most of them made the Rotonde de Cartier tourbillon single push-pie-
trench warfare fuelled the rise of wrist watches in the interwar years, reflects Louis Cartier's ce chronograph, and the Astrotourbillon, in which
over pocket watches, and shows just how power- fascination with the zone where technical the tourbillon balance rotates round the dial,
fully Cartier has maintained its brand DNA ever brilliance and stylistic excellence intertwine. acting as a second hand.
since. All the essential elements are here:the ele- Finally, in a room all of its own, is the ID One
gant Roman numerals, the cabochon stone in the EXCEPTIONAL EXPERTISE Concept Watch, which deploys a host of
winding crown, the mixture of design economy Which brings us to the second part of the exhibi- innovative materials and techniques to combat
and ineffable, instantly identifiable style. tion, trumpeting the horological ground Cartier is the perennial drawbacks of mechanical
currently breaking. Since its decision to take on technology. As the exhibition progresses around
QUEST FOR EXCELLENCE full manufacture status in 2007, Cartier has com- the world for the next three-four years (having
Cartier is on a mission to prove how seriously it mitted itself to innovation and breakthroughs now closed at Zurich's Museum Bellerive, its next
takes its watch business and the exhibition, as much as simply developing the capability to stop is Singapore's ArtScience Museum from
filled with early examples of other classics like produce watches fully in-house. Its Fine Watch- December 14-February 12), it will be interesting
the Tank, Tortue and Baignoire, has been put making Collection is made up of some fairly to see what new arrivals make it into the section
together to prove the point. For anyone (and mesmerizing pieces, charismatically displayed of this enthralling show. ፳፪

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CRASH WRIST WATCH (1967) LARGE "PORTIQUE" MYSTERY CLOCK (1923) TORTUE WRIST WATCH WITH MINUTE REPEATER (1928)

| | 00/24 WATCHWORLD 111 39

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E was founded in 1884, but when you look at the current collection you see a

youthful, vibrant brand. Founder and master watchmaker Christian Rüefli-Flury

focused on producing excellent pocket watches. The brand name? The Greek symbol

for "hour". In 1900 he started using the stylised hourglass as his logo.

CHRONORALLY WRC

ЭЭМ WATCHWORLD | |
 THE EDOX FACTORY IN LES GENEVEZ

The founder passed avvay in 1921 and Edox vvas lower price ranges, and especially private label true divers watches, water resistant to 200m.
taken over by Robert Kaufmann-Hug, not a watches. Watch aficionados may not be too fond of A new method the company had developed to
watchmaker but a banker. Still, the man this part of the watch industry, but a lot of money seal the crown made it unnecessary to use screws.
understood the spirit of the time when it came to is made there, and this came in very useful for In 1963 Edox went even further with the Hydro
watches, and turned Edox's focus to producing Strambini. He moved Edox's production from Biel/ Sub, which was water resistant to 500m. Quite a
wrist watches. He was ahead of its time, because Bienne to the tiny, idyllic village of Les Genevez different innovation was seen in the Bluebird
it would be some years before most Swiss watch where he was born. And he said goodbye to the (1969), a watch with a scratch-resistant, specially
brands took the same step. In 1965 the private label business which Edox, until then, had coated case and crystal; the case had a double
management of Edox passed into the hands of a firmly embraced. From now on only Edox watches back, which provided additional protection
cousin of the banker, Victor Flury-Liechti. The would emerge from the Edox premises. against shocks. The most famous watch in the
ASUAG Group (the predecessor of the Swatch Edox history is the Geoscope. Introduced in 1971,
Group) acquired Edox in 1973, which made it a WATER RESISTANT this watch displayed the time in all the times
sister brand of, among others, Longines, Mido, Edox had an excellent reputation when it came to zones by means of a map on the dial that showed
Rado, Eterna and Certina. Ten years later Victor special watches, especially watches with the world from the perspective of the South Pole.
Strambini took over Edox. increased water resistance. As early as 1932 the This map revolved on its axis once every 24 hours,
brand introduced the Amphibia, a water so that the time in all the zones could be read.
VICTOR STRAMBINI resistant wrist watch with a savonette case and Strambini made sure that this technical élan was
Victor Strambini knew everything there was to an extra lid covering the crystal. In 1939 there revived. In 1998 Edox presented the Les Bémonts
know about the watch world. The likeable Swiss was a striking model fitted with a stop seconds Ultra Slim, a watch with a hand-vvound
purchased Edox in 1983, but by then he had already mechanism with a push-button incorporated in mechanical movement that was a mere 1.4mm
spent most of his life at Montres Vista. Here he the crown. The Delfin, presented in 1961, is now a high. It was and remains the thinnest movement
gained experience in the production of watches in desirable collector's item. It was one of the first with a date indicator ever made. 22

GEOSCOPE CHRISTIAN RÜEFLI-FLURY LES BÉMONTS ULTRA SLIM

| | 00/24 WATCHWORLD 111 41

 A NEW ERA
These days the management of Edox is in the
hands of Victors son Alexandre and Christian
Hotz, who moved from Oris to Edox. The duo gave
the brand a tremendous boost with a series of
sporty watch lines and smart sponsorship, and
kicked off a rich new era. Edox sponsors water
sports (the Class-1World Powerboat Championship
and the RC44 sailing class, via Team Dubai) and
motorsports (official timekeeper of the FIA World
Raly Championship) An interesting detail:
earlier in its history, in 1966, the brand made a
name for itself as the official sponsor of the
Vuelta, the Spanish road cycling race.

COLLECTIONS
No doubt Strambini Jr. and Hotz are envisaging a
younger public now. In a smart move, they've
divided the collection and are focusing almost LES VAUBERTS LES BÉMONTS ULTRA SLIM CLASS-1
exclusively on a price range of £600 to 3,000. At
the entry level is the Les Vauberts line with
elegant, classical watches with automatic ETA
2824 movements. The Les Bémonts line consists of
the ultra-thin models with which Edox made a
name for itself in the 1990s. In the sporting arena
there is the Class-1 line with chronographs
featuring Valjoux 7750 movements that are water
resistant to 5oom. The Grand Ocean collection is a
little less rugged and a little more elegant, with
chronographs and a number of different watches.
The square, uniquely styled Classe Royale watches
provide the necessary variation in an otherwise
round product range. And the eye-catching WRC
models emphasise the relationship with rallying.
The outsider in the Edox collection is the Classe
Royale 5 Minute Repeater, a watch that houses a
movement with 5-minute repetition.

GRAND OCEAN CLASSE ROYALE CLASSE ROYALE

5 MINUTE REPEATER
42111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |
/X\ARCUS THE MOST IMPORTANT
COLLECTION OF WATCHES
IN IHE WORLD

(xREUBEL FORSE
Inventeurs Horlogers

170 New Bond Street, London W1S ARD 020 7290 6500 www.marcuswatches.co.uk
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Automatic chronograph
Power reserve: 42h
Water resistance: 100m / 330ft
Sapphire crystal with antiglare treatment
Alligator full skin strap with folding clasp
raymond-weil.com
RAYMOND WEIL
GENEVE

For your nearest RAYMOND WEIL

stockist please telephone 01428 656822
or e-mail [email protected]
 (? WorldMags
REPORT ІІ By Timothy Barber

THE SOUND OF THE

MINUTE REPEATER
t the Only Watch auction in September the top lot was a
Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon, selling for well
over a million pounds. Due to the complexity of the engineering
required, not to mention the musical beauty of the repeater
itself as it rings out the minutes and hours, the minute repeater
has represented the highest expression of the watchmaker's
art since English clockmaker Daniel Quare patented it in the
17th century. 00/24 WatchWorld looks look at some of the most
enthralling watches to have appeared recently that contain this
holy grail of classical watch complications, in which time is not
just seen, but heard.
SEIKO
Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater
AUDEMARS PIGUET Each of Seiko's most spectacular line of watches,
Millenary Hand-Wound Minute Repeater direct-impulse escapement with the reliability the grande complication pieces in Seiko's top-
A piece reminding us - if we needed reminding of the Swiss lever escapement. That benefits end Credor range are its most spectacular line of
- that there's very much more to Audemars accuracy, long-term stability and shock- watches. Each is hand-made in the company's
Piguet than Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore resistance, we're told. Micro Artists' Studio in the Japanese Alps - such
watches. A new addition to the haute horological is the complexity of the craftsmanship that only
Millenary range, this handsome minute repeater a handful of watches have been produced since
breaks new ground with a novel escapement 2006. Designed by Seiko's finest watchmaker,
design, which combines the high efficiency of a Kenji Shiohara, the watch contains hammers
made from Myochin steel, a metal originally
intended for Samurai armor that was found to
have spectacular sonorous qualities when used
for making wind chimes. Incredibly, the same
family has produced this steel for over 800 years.
Adding to the beauty of the sound is an inner
acoustic chamber within the outer casing.
Launched at BaselWorld this year, the watch is
powered by Seiko's hypnotically smooth Spring
Drive mechanism.

REE nine

JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Master Grande Tradition
Grande Complication timepiece. Rather than chiming
This eye-catching astronomical piece at the the passing minutes of the normal
very top end of Jaeger-LeCoultre's offering 24 hour day, the minute repeater
combines a perpetual calendar, tourbillon and marks the time of the sidereal day - see
minute repeater — with its star chart dial, a truly the in-depth feature on astronomical
spectacular example of the grande complication watches on page 70 for more information.

46 111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 WorldMags

ROGER DUBUIS
Excalibur Minute Repeater
Roger Dubuis is revamping its Excalibur
collection of watches to give them a slightly
more dynamic look and feel, and has marked the
remodelling by bringing out a minute repeater
version which also includes a tourbillon, visible F.P. JOURNE
through a window at 5 o'clock. A limited line of Repetition Souveraine
28 watches are being made. Francois-Paul Journe rewrites the
minute repeater rule book with this
ultra slim version, eking a strong,
clear tone out of a striking watch
that's barely 4mm thick. That's thanks
to Journe's flat gong, first seen on his
Grande Sonnerie watch. It is actually a
rather discrete piece to look at, little different
from Journe's Chronometre Souverain, but
hiding a superlative mechanism beneath the M
dial. It is light too, at just 69.6g, an astonishingly NI
low weight for such a complicated piece. h

nn eee

HUBLOT
King Power Cathedral
Minute Repeater Tourbillon &
Column Wheel Chronograph
Scotching the idea that sonorous metals are best
for the chimes of a minute repeater, Hublot this
year brought out the world's first such watch
made from carbon fiber. It creates a remarkably
clear, reverberant chime - Hublot claims it lasts
double the length of a regular gong. The three
haute horological complications are all visible
from the dial side of the watch.

ULYSSE NARDIN
Alexander the Great Minute Repeater that would traditionally appear to chime
Westminster Carillon Tourbillon the time in ancient clocks. Here, the figures
Jaquemarts move in sync with the sound of the gongs,
Alexander the Great follows in the footsteps appearing to swing their weapons against
of Genghis Khan in making an appearance on one another. There are four gongs, each
the dial ofthe latest Ulysse Nardin Jaquemarts with a different tone. Only a 100 pieces
vvatch. Taquemarts are animatronic figures will be made.

| | 00/24 WATCHWORLD Br 47
 | | By Timothy Barber

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INIERVIEW

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 የሃ WorldMags

SERVICE IN
TECHNICOLOR
he family-owned German company Wempe combines

high-end retailing with production of its own watches.

Nowitsnewly-expanded London boutique is offering customers

a closer look at their own watches.

CUSTOMER SERVICE
Here's another. Take your watch along to the
Bond Street boutique for a service and you can
now inspect its workings on a huge video screen,
magnified via a camera designed for keyhole
surgery. This way, the in-house Wempe
watchmakers can show you any defects up close,
explain what steps need to be taken to repair it
and give you a precise costing. This is a simple
enough innovation but a clever one, and
something that will most likely be rolled out to
other Wempe stores around the world. It's a key
part of a shop expansion and refurbishment that
has seen the London boutique - which sells
brands including Patek Philippe, Vacheron
Constantin, Audemars Piguet and Glashütte
ብ. መመለ Original - become one of the company's flagship
же”
premises.
"Customer service has always been on my mind,
Іп the watch industry, family ownership is still a and I try very hard to come up with new ideas to
terrifically powerful notion for the few companies attract people. Customers will sometimes
that can claim it - just look at how central it is to question why a servicing is so expensive, they
the Patek Philippe brand, which is owned and want more explanation of any defects or
managed in Geneva by the Stern family. accidental damage to the watch, so this is a way of
Inthe world of those who actually sell the watches, explaining things a little bit better. Customers
it’s a more common concept - there are plenty of need to see, they need to learn, then they can
long-established fevvellers and watch shops understand it better," says Schroeder, a half-
around that are family businesses. In the UK, German, half-Scottish woman who has spent all
Beards in Cheltenham, William & Son in Mayfair her working life with Wempe. She came to
and the Boodles business, in the hands of the manage its UK operation nine years ago,
Wainwright family, are a few that spring to mind. overseeing growth in both the premises and the
figures - in the latter case, continuing double-
600 EMPLOYEES digit growth despite a difficult economy. As she
Extending the idea to an international empire of laughingly admits, the CEO of one well-known
boutiques owned and managed by a single family watch brand calls her "the steamroller".
is a different matter, like Wempe. It's arguably
what lies at the heart of the success of Wempe, the MORE THAN
German high-end watch and jewellery retailer, 130 YEARS OF HISTORY
and latterly watch producer in its own right. That's Ifthe London store is on the up, so is the company.
certainly the opinion of Lynn Schroeder, the Wempe - it’s pronounced (roughly) "Vem-per",
London emissary of the Wempe family, and and those mistaking it for a certain burger chain
managing director of their sumptuous boutique will receive a stern glare from Ms Schroeder - was
on Bond Street. "The owners are personally liable founded in 1878 by watchmaker Gerhard D.
for the company," she says. "Where do you find Wempe. A success story of the earlier Twentieth
that, with nearly 600 employees worldwide? We Century that hit a rough patch in the post-war
can say to the customer that we have to do things years, it was revitalised in the last three decades
as well as possible because if anything goes wrong by Hellmut Wempe and his daughter Kim-Eva
the owners are personally affected." She adds: "It's Wempe, with shops opened on Fifth Avenue in
one part of why you should feel confident and trust New York, Paris, Vienna and even aboard the
that you're in good hands with us." luxury cruise liner MS Europa. 22
| | 00/24 WATCHWORLD 111 49
 % WorldMags
INTERVIEW İri

TESTING |
CENTRE IN GLASHÜTTE To have someone on hand showing
Among retailers Wempe is unusual in having
made the leap from merely selling watches to
producing them as well, with its ETA-powered
you what the best thing is you can get
"Zeitmeister" line and elegant - if inelegantly
titled - "Chronometerwerke" watches developed for your money, is so important aa
in partnership with Nomos. ЕШ
This is no superficial toe-dip into watch
production either - the latter pieces are certified jobs they can do in this industry," says Schroeder. salesroom - formerly offices - dedicated to
chronometers, and it's Wempe that does the "It's something that just needs to be communicated, jewellery, from which Schroeder intends to give
certification. Since Switzerland's COSC that you can have a very decent and interesting the likes of Tiffany & Co. and Cartier a run for
organisation decided only to test Swiss-made life as a watchmaker." their money. This room alone has received £1.3m
movements from 2003, Wempe took the bull by in investment.
the horns and opened its own chronometric VALUE FOR YOUR MONEY For watch lovers, though, it's downstairs where
testing facility in an old converted observatory in In her newly-expanded store, the watchmaking the action lies. The ample, beautifully curated
Glashütte, Germany's watchmaking capital. team is brought front-of-house - as well as that displays in its presentation cabinets, windows
Putting pieces from German brands such as dinky surgical camera and screen, there's a and huge lobby area make Wempe a paradise for
Glashütte Original and Nomos through their workshop where customers can see the browsers and buyers alike. Schroeder’s hearty
paces, the testing is arguably of a more technicians in action, rather like having an open disapproval of the watch industry's trend towards
challenging nature than that found in the COSC kitchen in a restaurant. "There are too many single-brand stores is in fact a passionate avoca-
process, since it tests the finished watch rather people out there who don't know where to bring tion of the service a shop like Wempe offers.
than uncased movements, investigating their their watches, and they don't trust anyone now "Ithink you want to see variety, don't you? If you
accuracy over 15 days in a series of positions. because they're used to unknowledgeable people want a pair of shoes, don't you want to try on at
Chalk that one up to German fastidiousness. giving them advice that they read from a list," least five to make a decision," she says. "I, as a
Wempe's commitment to the watchmaking and says Schroeder. "Then all of a sudden the repair is customer, want variety and a sales person who
repairing process is such that the company £200 more than they were expecting and no one knows about variety. To learn about one watch
employs around 15 apprentices in its Hamburg HO can explain to them why. We have the passionate, brand is easy, but to have someone on hand sho-
and more in its expanded Glashütte factory. In the knowledgeable experts sitting right here." wing me what the best thing is I can get for my
UK, it's an active supporter of Manchester's British Schroeder presides over a handsome showroom money, this is so important. But we are not a retai-
School of Watchmaking. “One of the ideas I like the where large, beautiful clocks tick away between ler like the others," she goes on. "Wempe should
most is that we're helping to get young people off the gleaming wrist watch display cabinets. A be more than that and is more than that.”
the streets, showing them the possibilities of the graceful staircase spirals up to an upstairs www.wempe.com Phone: 020 7493 2299

50111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 “Accuracy is everything when
you re setting mankind's
highest altitude record.”
Brian Binnie
- Spacecraft altitude record holder (367,442 ft in space)

- | Brian Binnie rocketed the first private manned

N20 spacecraft to an altitude of 69.6 miles, winning the
У USS10 million Ansari X Prize and opening a new era in
| space flight. When the rocket ignited, violent
vibrations emerged and a giant powerful wave swept
through the whole cabin. Each mission can be both
dangerous and risky. Which is why a dependable
anti-shock timepiece like Ball Watch is so important in
an environment that features truly adverse conditions.
The watch that once ran America's railroads now helps the world's space explorers
keep time. There is no other timepiece that is as rugged and dependable.

Announcing the world's most innovative patented anti-shock system - Amortiser®

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for up to 25 years
Movement can withstand
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without damage እ 1 temperature
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ERNEST JONES (658456021112 | CHISHOLM HUNTER (0)14 1204 5814 | jura:: watches (0)80 0011 2704
LOVE & LIFE DIAMOND MERCHANTS Es. 1857
 ||| INTERVIEW 111 By Timothy Barber

JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER, HUBLOT

“Be first, be different and be unique”
=
Н ublot's charismatic big cheese, Jean-Claude Biver, wants to

vvelcome you into his world and is opening dozens of stores

across the world to do just that. He tells 00/24 WatchWorld about

fusion, tradition, Big Bangs and why Hublot is like Ferrari.

Theiner
Micha
Photo:

52 1111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 tə ET
e
Le"

OFFICIAL OPENING AT BOND STREET LONDON

Watches, and the watch industry, are not the most want to achieve 70 to 80 stores by 2015," he says, or
important things in Jean-Claude Biver's life. Some- more or less shouts, as we settle into the new
thing of a surprise for a man who has brought two shop's lavish leather armchairs. Biver is a
brands, Hublot and Omega, back from the brink boisterous soul whose arms wave, eyes swell and
and one, Blancpain, back from the dead. No, before voice rises in bellowing, passionate crescendos as
watches there is love, a subject on which the Hu- he talks. Well into his sixties, neither his ardour
blot boss will readily expound with New Age fer- nor his ambition is showing any sign of flagging.
vour - love for family, love for one another, love for In fact, the explosion of Hublot shops is spearhea-
life. “We have art, tradition, culture, these are ding a significant shake-up in the way watches are
things coming from love and love is our future," he bought. With watch companies ever keener to con-
exclaims at one point, with no hint of irony." trol their own distribution networks and gain
And just behind love,there is cheese. At a party back direct access to their customers, single-brand
inthe summerto launch the suave new Hublot bou- boutiques are on the rise in a major way.
tique on Bond Street, the shop was stacked high There are plenty who will argue that the variety on
with fromage produced by Biver's herd of cows, and offer in traditional watch shops is more vital to the
guests were sent home with great bundles of the consumer than Hublot and some other companies
stuff. A few weeks later, at a reception in Monaco to are making out. But Biver sees things differently.
launch Hublot's latest Yacht Club Monaco Classic Those who buy his watches tend to have done their
Fusion Chronograph, Biver had to take his leave half research and will set out looking specifically for
an hour into the event in order to return to Switzer- Hublot watches - so the more of them you can
land to tend to his beloved cattle. “A boat must have show in one dedicated boutique, the better. "When
a captain. My cows, they need their captain to drive we're in multi-brand stores we can only show a
them down the mountain, and they have only one part of our world," he says. "We want to show you
captain — me!” he merrily explained to partygoers all of our world. That's brought us in a very natural
before dashing off to the helipad. way to say that we want to open our own shops in
the major places of the world."
99 STORES
Nevertheless, the boat Biver captains in the watch NICHE PRODUCT
world is every bit as glamorous, conspicuous and One of the benefits of Hublot's acquisition, in 2008,
dedicated to good living as the sleek super yachts by IVMH, the world's largest luxury goods group,
that crowd Monte Carlo's marina. Its watches are has been the ability to take out spaces in some of the
sported by hip hoppers, athletes, hedge funders most prestigious shopping spots, including Madi-
and oligarchs, its name is emblazoned across spor- son Avenue in New York, Paris's Place Vendome, and
ting events like Formula 1 and the World Cup and of course Bond Street. Lounging in the sleek, moder-
its dedicated boutiques are spreading across the nist opulence of the Bond Street store, you see what
globe. Hublot's London store was the 38th to open he means by Hublot e“world”. Amid the leather and
in two years, and Biver's really just getting started. suede, holographic displays make watches appear
"By the end of the year there will be 55, and we and vanish, animations suddenly play across the 22

1 | 00/24 WATCHWORLD ) 11 53
 INTERVIEW 111

OCEANOGRAPHIC 4000
Hublot had developed a phenomenal
concept to mix materials, like rubber and
gold inthe same watch
business schools and boardrooms. For instance, the philosophy, and translated it into what we call
idea of a niche, low-volume brand for the wealthy the fusion”
sponsoring mass-market events like Formula 1 and The great man leans forward as he warms to his
the World Cup is the kind of anti-logic notion that's theme, hands gesticulating grandly. “We bring
rarely seen in the conservative old watch industry. together tradition and future. We are not going to
Biver simply calls it "the Ferrari effect". "Ferrari is repeat the tradition, we are going to take the
known by everybody, but Ferrari is still exclusive. tradition and open the windows and let the air and
So it is not a contradiction, you can remain very ideas and technology of the future in,” he exclaims,
luxury orientated even if everybody knows it," he punching the air. "Then we will be able to reinvent
says. "When you can't afford it, there's always a somehow the tradition, and make it move to the
surfaces of glass cabinets, vvatches pop up on chance that one day you might, and if you've seen future." Phew. Biver sits back again and holds up
stands and then disappear dovvnvvards as you ap- Hublot in the years before, it will be a natural his wrist, displaying his favourite Hublot watch, a
proach them. It's playful and plush. decision to buy it." minute repeater made - remarkably - of carbon. “It
In fact the brand's glamour, flamboyant designs is the perfect illustration of what fusion can do. A
and growing global reach make it easy to forget MINUTE REPEATER IN minute repeater is the most classical masterpiece,
that, in volume terms, this is a small operation - CARBON CASE the masterpiece of the 17th century. But to bring it
last year the company produced just 28,000 wat- Football, motor racing, superyachts and together in a super-light case in carbon, and to
ches. And as Biver readily - and, in fact, proudly - Hollywood are all a far cry from the stuttering achieve, thanks to carbon, a better sound than ever
admits: "Hublot is a niche product, it's certainly not brand Biver took on in 2004. "Originally there -that illustrates how fusion can contribute to, and
for everybody, and many people reject it because were only problems," he says. "The watches become an asset to, the tradition."
it's not what they have in their imagination about were too small, they were mostly quartz so the
a luxury watch." product was wrong and the brand had no THE GRANDE FROMAGE OF
awareness at all" However, there was one THE WATCH WORLD
BIG BANG aspect in which Biver spied Hublot's potential. Biver says his arch philosophy is "to be first, be
What Hublot watches are, is recognisable. The "Hublot had developed a phenomenal concept different and be unique” As the only cheese-
chunky, futuristic Big Bang porthole design, to mix materials, like rubber and gold in the producing CEO with a carbon minute repeater, a
whether rendered in the black carbon of this year's same watch. In 1980 (when Hublot was founded, herd of cows and three major watch brands on his
Oceanographique 4000 dive watch or the crisp rose ed. this was nearly a provocation, it was CV that would otherwise have been dust, he's
gold contours of the Classic Fusion Chronograph, is shocking. That idea we transformed into a living up to that philosophy pretty well.
as unmistakeable as a Rolex Oyster or a Cartier
Santos. “We have one product, Big Bang!” he
exclaims, thrusting a finger into the air. “We have
one shape, the porthole shape! If this product
doesn't work, we are bankrupt! It's a danger, but it's
an advantage - the advantage is identification."
The problem is making people buy more than one
watch. With such a limited range, the risk is that
buyers stick with one piece, where the aim of any
luxury brand is to have returning custom from its
loyal patrons. The solution, for Hublot, is an endless
stream of variations within the product, from
limited editions and outré decorations to added
complications and technical innovations. It's the
latter two areas that are of rising importance for
Hublot, particularly since the IVMH-owned brand
incorporated BNB Concept, the business of master
watchmaker Matthias Buttet. He is tasked with
developing high complication, high concept pieces
like the remarkable Antikythera piece. A
handsome in-house chronograph movement, the
Unico, is now being used in select King Power
watches and is taking Hublot into watchmaking's
current frontier area, the use of silicon. jp

THE FERRARI EFFECT 20 \

"The floor on which you build the future is
innovation, creativity, development, technology,"
o `

says Biver. Only after all that comes marketing,

ironically the thing for which Biver's revered in GLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH

54111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 ULTIMATE DISCRETION

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PIAGET ALTIPLANO
The world's thinnest automatic watch
White gold case, 5.25 mm thick
The world's thinnest automatic movement
Piaget Manufacture Calibre, 2.35 mm thick
www.piaget-altiplano.com

PIAGET - 169 New Bond Street - London 020 3364 0800

PIAGET HARRODS - Knightsbridge - London
 INTERVIEW İri By Timothy Barber

1926-20 11
GEORGE DANIELS
00/24 VVatchVVorld pays
tribute to Dr George Daniels,
the British watchmaker
reckoned to be among the
finest to have lived, who
passed avvay in October.

If the contribution Dr George Daniels made to

watchmaking was merely the invention of the co-
axial escapement, it would alone have marked
him out as a hugely significant figure. The
mechanism, an advancement in the imparting of
energy through to the balance without the need
for lubrication, has been described as the most
important development in horology for 250 years.
But his contribution was much greater than that.
As Roger Smith, Daniels” one-time protégé and
inheritor of his legacy, says, he opened the door
for independent watchmakers and breathed new
life into the art of watchmaking.

HAND-MADE
After an early career spent restoring watches and
researching vintage and antique timepieces, he
became the first person to master the complete
range of skills required to conceive, design and escapement system. Eventually, it was Swatch He knew that the lever escapement is inherently
build a watch from scratch, single-handedly. His Group chairman Nicholas Hayek who showed wrong, because of its need to rely on lubrication.
masterful pocket watches quickly became highly some faith - since 1999 the co-axial concept has He invented the co-axial escapement, he told the
sought-after collectors’ items. Starting in the late been exclusively used by Omega. "When Daniels world it was the best escapement to put into your
1960s, he made just 37 in total but showed the way was a young boy he’d read books about great watches, and there's no doubt technically its far
forward for watchmaking of the highest quality. watchmakers like Tompion and Mudge who'd superior to the lever escapement.”Daniels himself
“In the late Sixties and early Seventies the Swiss all made breakthroughs in horology, and king was every bit as forthright in stating the
vvatch industry vvas going through turmoil vvith among these breakthroughs vvere those around excellence of his invention. “The vvatch industry
the advent of quartz, and they vvere throvving out the escapement.” says Smith. is by nature very conservative and slovv to adopt
all this knowledge. He was saying there is a future nevv things. But basically, every maker vvho
to this,” says Smith. “He proved that the only way CO-AXIAL ESCAPEMENT continues with other escapements will ultimately
to make a great watch is to make it by hand.” He continues: "In restoring antique watches, he'd be trampled by the co-axial for the very simple
According to Smith, Daniels was responsible for seen all the escapements go through his hands. reason that it is better." M
creating an environment in which the likes of
Philippe Dufour, Peter Speake-Marin, Francois-
Paul Journe and numerous other independent
master watchmakers, could operate.

GREAT WATCHMAKERS
He invented the co-axial
It is the aforementioned co-axial escapement
with which Daniels will forever be most closely
escapement, he told the world it
associated. Having first announced his invention
in 1976, it took him several years to convince vvas the best escapement to put
anyone in the Swiss watch industry that this was
a worthwhile improvement on Breguet’s lever into your vvatches
56 111 00/24 WATCHWORLD 1 |
 WorldMags
By Britta Rossander 11 BRAND

SAY IT WITH MUSIC

reguet's Reveil Musical watch is not just a masterpiece
for appearances' sake. The watch contains a patented

music mechanism, which plays beautiful music for

20-25 seconds.

particularly watch number 4604 with a golden

case, a model which in addition to the time also
showed the date. The watch was originally ordered
by a banker by the name of Schickler in 1828 and
cost ЕЕЕ 3,600 at the time. Breguet is aware that in
1843 the same watch was handed in for servicing
by Rossini — who had perhaps received it as a gift -
and that after his death in 1868, his widow
continued to wear the watch and also had it
serviced by Breguet on a number of occasions.

LE RÉVEIL MUSICAL
The first examples of the Le Music Réveil are now
ready to leave Breguet to reach their expectant
customers. All watches are individually numbered
When you place your ear next to the watch, crisp or notes, the more expensive the watch. and manufactured from 18 carat white or yellow
notes from a beautiful melody flow over you. The Le Music Réveil is more advanced than that. The gold. The case is beautifully engraved with notes.
watch is being presented for the first time outside watch plays a crystal-clear piece by Rossini The automatic movement calibre 0900, has a
Breguet's head office. The occasion was last either when the user presses a button at 55-hours power reserve.
summer, at a concert in Lucerne, a small number of 10 o ‘clock, or at a certain time which can be pre-set To maximise the pleasure that new owners can
journalists had been invited for the presentation. using the alarm function. derive from their watch, the box also includes a
The Classique Complication Le Réveil Musical wooden arm made from a special type of wood, a
model is a watchmaker's masterpiece. The work is ROSSINI type of spruce with exceptional resonance
based on Breguet's new self-winding calibre 0900 As Breguet maintains its old archives in such good properties which is often used to make violins. For
with a 55-hours power reserve and just as many order, it is possible to find intriguing information the best possible sound quality, the watch should
jewels, in this case complemented by a fantastic there, such as the fact that composer Gioachino be placed on this wooden arm, which then acts as
music mechanism. Rossini himself owned a Breguet watch, more an amplifier.l8

ROYAL FAVOURITE
Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet opened
a watchmaker's shop in Paris way back in 1775. He
quickly became the royal favourite, and nobility
throughout Europe wanted to wear a Breguet
watch. The Queen of France Marie-Antoinette was
one of his regular customers, and it is said that it
was our Swedish Axel von Fersen who ordered
the remarkable watch with all the known
complications which today are called "the Marie-
Antoinette watch".
Le Réveil Musical is a watch with complications
that is truly in the spirit ofthe legendary Abraham-
Louis Breguet. This is a minute repeater which can
play a melody instead of just striking the time. The
function with a watch that can strike the time was
developed before the advent of luminescent digits
within the industry, so that people could tell the
time even if they had their watch in their pocket or
were blind. The complication means that, with the
aid of a slide control on the side of the case, people
can hear what the time is in hours and minutes.
Small hammers in the mechanism are activated
via the control, causing them to strike. The watch
case acts as a resonating chamber. The more strikes

I | 00/24 WATCHWORLD ET 57
||| HISTORY İli By Jan ር. Hubert

xx

LEE
n 4

WATCHWORLD | |
 WorldMags

Part2

The lost watch glory of P~

FRANCE
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

ith more than 62 million inhabitants France is ап Despite the top position occupied by Paris, the
French watch industry had already suffered a
important market for watches, but by far the most setback with major consequences by the end of
the 17th century. This happened in 1685 and
watches that are sold each year come from Switzerland. For was caused by the abolition of the 1598 Decree
of Nantes, which caused many Protestant
the Swiss watch industry France came in third place in 2010, watchmakers to flee the country, especially to
Switzerland and England. As a result France
after the United States but before China (which has now had to start importing watches. Geneva, which
was just across the border, benefited
overtaken France], with an export value of 1.16 million tremendously and became an important
supplier, also because the city established an
Swiss francs. France used to have its own flourishing almost industrial serial-based production. The
fact that suppliers from the French border
industry, but very little is left of it. In a series of two articles region played a role in this production hardly
benefited the French industry at all. French
Jan C. Hubert describes the rise and fall of the French watch watchmakers, including Breguet, even started
using movements from Switzerland as the
industry. This is part two. basis for their products. >>

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1 | 00/24 WATCHWORLD 111 59

 WorldMags
HISTORY İri

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Despite this development enough knowledge and brought the specialists together in a factory, other at-risk French watch companies together in
was left in France for a new growth period, and each with their own, often individually designed a conglomerate that came underthe management
not just in Paris: in the French area bordering machines. The result was a much reduced flow of of French industrial giant Matra. VVhen Matra
the north-western part of Switzerland, with people and components, less manual labour, ultimately sold the vvatch group to a Tapanese
Besancon as its centre, an industry of - mostly consistent quality, in short: industrial produc- company this signalled the end of Japy c.s. The
- watch component suppliers emerged. tion. This was given another boost when, in 1793, brand was subsequently bought by Chaumet.
Japy was able to purchase a water mill from the
FRÉDÉRIC JAPY French state to drive his machinery. Japy’s com- LAURENT MÉGEVAND
An important role at that time was played by pany ultimately produced 40,000 watches per A number of important watchmakers, like
Frédéric Japy. He was born in 1749 in Beaucourt year. His son went even further: he moved to Perron, Perrot and Paliard, worked in Besancon
(France), where his father was the mayor. This Montbéliard where, in 1813, he was able to pro- itself. The serious growth of this town started in
town is close to where a corner of Switzerland duce an astonishing 300,000 movements (still 1793 when Laurent Mégevand (1754-1814), who
(where Porrentruy is situated) intrudes into for pocket watches). However, all this was once originated from Geneva, was given a grant for a
France, east of Besancon. Japy learned the watch again achieved with Swiss machinery and the movement factory, on the condition that he
trade in Le Locle and returned to his birthplace at movements were sold mainly to renowned Swiss would hire 200 students per year. Mégevand
age 24, where he started a production company. buyers. Around 1870 Japy’s annual production started with 80 employees who, like himself,
Inthe era of Japy the individual watch compo- was half a million (and in Besancon a further came from Switzerland and became persona non
nents were made by many independent 300,000 movements were produced). grata there because - like Mégevand - they
(often home-based) workers and were As a result of problems with the succession the supported the French Revolution.
then purchased by companies that Japy family sold the business to French company Ameretwo yearslaterthousands of watchmakers
used them to assemble their watches. Jaz. When the Quartz Crisis broke out Jaz had moved to the town, attracted by a range of
Japy broke with this tradition attempted to turn the tide by combining Japy and privileges. Mégevand set up a kind of conveyor
belt system whereby each individual only had to
perform a few actions. However, financially the
GOLDEN CLOCK, VERSAILLES, PARIS
factory was a disaster and just five years later, in
1798, the company was bankrupt. Mégevand,
who was married to Marianne Breguet (that's
right, a distant relative of the Breguet) stayed in
Besancon and died in poverty in 1814 during the
occupation of the city by French monarchists.
His memory lives on in Besancon, where an
important thoroughfare is named after him.
Partly thanks to Mégevand the watch industry had
taken root in Besancon and the surrounding area.
That situation did not change when the Swiss
returned to their home country after their privile-
ges in France had been revoked. In 1825 80,000
movements were being produced, nearly all des-
tined for Swiss customers; in 1850 the production
Was 150,000 movements. Just how important Be-
sancon continued to be as a watch town is evident
fromthe fact that in 1880 the town was responsible
for 90% of the total French watch production. 22

бО ııı OO/24 WATCHWORLD | |

INNER FORCE
SILVERSTONE STOWE GMT BLUE LIMITED EDITION OF 250

HANDCRAFTED IN
SWITZERLAND.

WWW.GRAHAM-LONDON.COM < АР АУ 6 SİS

FRASER HART, 8 NEW CHANGE PASSAGE, LONDON EC4M ЗАС, T. +44 (0) 207 236 4560
 WorldMags
HISTORY lii

LIP WATCH MATY COLLECTION

EMMANUEL LIPMANN
The fact that the death of Mégevand and the
departure of the Swiss did not mean the end of
Besancon as a watch town can to some extent
be credited to Emmanuel Isaac Lipmann, who
had started a watch business in the town at the
start of the 19th century. Around 1865 a
grandson of Emmanuel, Ernest Lipmann, had a
small watch company employing 15 staff in the
Grand Rue in Besancon, which would grow into
the biggest watch company in French history. In
1896 the company deleted the “mann” from its
name and the brand was henceforth known as
"Lip". Lip became a Société Anonyme or S.A.
(Limited Liability Company) in 1931 and had
around 350 employees at that time.
Immediately after the Second World War there
was one more big revival, when necessity forced
the French production system to be totally OTHER BRANDS
updated. In 1960 Lip had more than 1,000 Other well-known but much younger brands T DE BESANCON
piRECTEMEN " HORLOGE RIE

employees, but the revival was short-lived. Tax from Besancon are Yema and Maty. Yema was capitate OF

measures, protection and union demands rapidly founded by Henry Louis Belmont in 1948. In 1952
weakened the French watch industry and the the brand introduced a complete French
Quartz Crisis nearly signalled the death knell. At automatic chronograph and in the 1960s Yema
Lip the decline was particularly spectacular, was the most-exported French watch brand. In
despite a participation of Swiss company 1969 the company produced half a million
Ebauches SA, which increased to the permitted watches that were sold in more than 50 countries.
maximum of 4396. After strikes and other labour Despite the Quartz Crisis the company reached
problems the company was occupied and taken its peak in 1978, with 1,3 million watches. After
over by its employees. On 14 August 1973 the this Yema collapsed and by 2005 the production
factory was forcefully seized back by riot police. was down to fewer than 50,000 watches. Once
Incidentally, the brand still exists today, a mere again the brand still exists in Besancon, as the
shadow of its former great self. “Maison Horlogère Francaise".
Generally speaking, the same applies to many Maty was founded in 1952. In that year Gérard
French watch companies. The industrial Mantion, then aged 24, started a watch mail
production that had started in the United States order company under that name and was very
was adopted by the Swiss, but to a much lesser successful. The Maty brand still exists and
extent by the French. After the huge economic still supplies watches, but it now focuses
crisis of the 1930s the Swiss manufacturers mainly on jewellery. escapement, a technology that had been
were stronger than ever before and the French Another big watch company in Besancon was comprehensively used by Roskopf a century
producers were no longer even strong enough Kelton-Timex, which opened its factory in earlier. This factory, which also produced
to beat the Germans when it came to clocks and 1966. Kelton was intended to be a cheap brand under the name of FRALSEN for some time, did
alarm clocks. in the American Timex group, with a pin lever not survive.

62 ııı OO/24 WATCHWORLD | 1

 WorldMags

ALAIN SILBERSTEIN WATCH

GERARD MANTION

ALAIN GIL BERG TEIN while he was living there he decided to design du Temps, and the city's observatory was
Needless to say, in France, as in Finland, the his own watch. In 1987 he presented his first involved in chronometry competitions, and will
Netherlands or Hong Kong, there are Master models in Basel; they stood out because of their be again in the near future. Even today
watchmakers who produce watches, either Bauhaus-inspired design and their colourful Besancon and the surrounding area depend
unique one-offs or in small editions. These and cheerful hands. When orders started to strongly on the watch and movement industry.
artisans are not relevant to the watch industry flood in Silberstein established La Fabrique De There are still quite a number of movement
but watch aficionados love these exclusive and Besancon S.A. in Besancon, which further production studios as well as goldsmiths,
special products. One such watchmaker is Alain emphasised his ties to the Lip watch that had engravers and enamellers who work for (mostly
Silberstein. He was born in Paris in 1950, where been produced in Besancon in the distant past. Swiss) customers. However, from an economic
his father had a clothing store. He studied Another French Master watchmaker is Jean point of view it is much more important that
interior architecture and design at the Dunand, whose Palace Coup model is a GMT many French people from the border region
prestigious École Nationale Supérieure des Arts chronograph with tourbillon; the square case work for Swiss watch companies.
Appliquées et des Métiers d'Art, which were was inspired by the Eiffel Tower. Also
also the fields in which he worked after his contributing to the exclusivity of the watch is FURTHERMORE
studies. This is probably also the reason why, its price tag: 460,000 dollars. In the same way that some watch brands
unlike his fellow countryman Francois-Paul diversify into writing goods, leather goods,
Journe, who had been trained as a watchmaker, BESANCON TODAY perfumes and other luxury items, fashion
he did not move to the watch country of Besancon is still closely associated with the brands are diversifying into watches, often
Switzerland. He did move to Besancon for his watch world. An École Nationale d'Horlogerie with surprising results. For example, fashion
work, and when his Lip watch broke down was established in the town, as well as a Musée and perfume house Chanel found its own use
22

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I | 00/24 WATCHWORLD LEI 63

 WorldMags
HISTORY lii

MUSÉE DU TEMPS, BESANÇON ASTRONOMICAL CLOCICAT-MIU

for ceramic, a rock-hard material from top Svviss producers, but in that year the AND FINALLY
to which, for a long time, Rado watch department of the company was moved Unlike the German watch industry, which
appeared to have the exclusive to La Chaux-de-Fonds and grew into a true revived completely after the German unity, it is
right: the Chanel watches that watch division. These days, thanks to having unlikely that the French watch industry will
feature cases of white ceramic material taken over the Roger Dubuis manufacture, ever get back to its old level, despite a past with
in particular, are very special and pure Chanel. Cartier produces its own proprietary many more high points and top watchmakers.
Then there are Hermés watches, quite a movements of the very highest level. What remains is a glorious past. One smalllight
different product from the equestrian Cartier’s choice of Switzerland is not a in the darkness is Pequignet, based in Morteau,
equipment and scarves that made this house. coincidence: the French top brands in the which is busy turning into a classic manufacture
Louis Vuitton, which started out making bags luxury market do not produce in France because thanks to the passion of the Leibundgut family,
and suitcases, managed to stand out with its like no other they are aware of the importance and which proudly bears the once meaningful
Tambour models. Then there are famous of good marketing and therefore of the value of "Fabriqué en France" stamp. It is the best
jewellers like Boucheron and Chaumet, who sell the "Swiss made" label. possible tribute to a glorious past. ፪፪
watches in addition to their jewellery. For
example, as early as 1911 Chaumet produced
a watch featuring a Breguet movement, and
the company stil works together with
movement manufacturers.
PEQUIGNET MOOREA ROYAL TRIUMPHE

A CASE APART
Quite a different story is that of Cartier. Louis
Cartier, mainly a designer of jewellery, produced
a watch for his Brazilian friend Alberto Santos-
Dumont at the start of the 20th century (this is
said to have been in 1904 or 1906). This was a
wrist watch - highly unusual for those days -
because as an aviation pioneer Santos-Dumont
needed his hands (and feet) to pilot his plane
and was therefore unable to consult a pocket
watch. The movement of this special watch was
produced by Edmond Jaeger, the French Master
watchmaker who later would be producing
products exclusively for Cartier and
subsequently merged with the Swiss LeCoultre
family. Watches (and clocks) were therefore
nothing new to Cartier, who followed the
Santos with the Baignoire (1912), the Tortue
(1912) and the Tank (1919), all with movements
from the best - mainly Swiss - manufacturers.
After the Second World War the brand lost its
way for a while, but at the start of the 1970s a
new management (which would eventually PEQUIGNET RUE ROYALE
become the Groupe Richemont) infused the
brand with a new spirit. Until 1972 Cartier
assembled its watches in France, using calibres

64 111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 WorldMags

FOLLOW
YOUR
CONVICTIONS
"FREE ACCESS ТО ALL
HUMAN KNOWLEDGE.
SOME CALLED IT
IMPOSSIBLE, | CALLED IT
`
WIKIPEDIA."
NA “` Jimmy Wales, Founder of Wikipedia
"WSMÄ?
У a
P

NS
A
~~
In 2003, Jimmy Wales stayed true to his beliefs by
SAN turning Wikipedia into a non-profit foundation.
At Maurice Lacroix, we create our unique movements
ж
ም.

2“
”
and award-winning designs by hand - because,
like Jimmy, we too follow our convictions.
For more information visit
www.MauriceLacroix.com
[email protected]

Masterpiece Double Rétrograde

--
MAURICE LACROIX

8TN
Wo

MAURICE ДЇ LACROIX
Manufacture Horlogére Suisse
 ІІІ NEWS | | By Timothy Barber

JAEGER-LECOULTRE RACES
AWAY WITH ASTON MARTIN
0 the numerous collaborations betvveen vvatch

brands and car manufacturers, the link-up betvveen

Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin has produced one of

the more interesting collections of vvatches. ON

ON
01

AMVOX5 WORLD CHRONOGRAPH LMP1

а ^ к
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mp FP = ‫ےک‬‎

66 1111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 (7 WorldMags

brand more commonly associated with

conservative, traditionalist pieces, the partnership
between Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin in
fact has considerable history. It dates back to the
days when watch companies, as specialists in
precision instruments and dial displays,
frequently had side businesses supplying
dashboard instruments to the car industry.
In the 1921 Jacques-David LeCoultre and Edmond
Jaeger founded a workshop in London to do just
that, which quickly became a market leader,
particularly in the field of racing cars. Within a
few years, so the story goes, cars equipped with
Jaeger counters, including Aston Martins, were
winning around 95% of car races.

AMVOX5 WORLD
Launched seven years ago, the Amvox range - CHRONOGRAPH LMP1
of which the latest release is the Amvoxs World The partnership was officially rekindles in 2004.
Chronograph LMPı - is recognisable for а The latest release is the Amvoxs World
design aesthetic that is distinctively modern, Chronograph LMP1 - the title is a reference to
quite architectural, but retains the classicism Aston Martin's LMP1 line of GT racing cars, which
you'd expect a historic carmaker like Aston compete in events like the Le Mans 24 Hour
Martin to inspire. competition. As well as a chronograph, the watch
adds a world time function to the mix and a
HISTORIC PARTNERSHIP rather zippy colour combination of blue subdials
Its also had its share of technical ingenuity. and world time display, a grey dial with a grid
Consider, for instance, the Amvox2 Chronograph, pattern inspired by Aston Martin air vent grills,
which replaced the traditional chronograph and stand-out orange chronograph hands.
push-pieces with a "vertical trigger" system to The watch, with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 752
operate the stopwatch more easily when driving; movement, is housed in a high-tech ceramic case
or the Amvox2 Transponder that, as its name composed of a mixture of zirconium and yttrium
suggests, incorporates a miniaturised trans- thats tested to extreme pressures and
ponder system - circuit, wiring, antenna and all temperatures to ensure it can stand up to the
- into the watch itself. intense forces experienced in a speeding GT race
While the watches are among the most car. Production of the watch is to be limited to
contemporary-looking designs from a watch just 250 editions.E

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I | 00/24. WATCHWORLD LEI 67

 WorldMags

VACHERON CONSTANTIN
PATRIMONY HARRODS EDITION

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 WorldMags

CORUM'S HARRODS EDITION

Harrods is covering both bases in its brand new watch on a ruby-set bracelet - a
Fine Watch room, a rather splendidly masculine world exclusive - while Blanc-
space (think black marble, hanging from the pain will launch its see-through
ceiling with patterns made of individual watch L-Evolution Carrousel Sap-
parts) which it opened in November. According phire in tantalum. Harrods is
to Harrods, it's home to Europe's largest watch overhauling its wider offe- |—

collection. ring on jewellery and wat-

ches, which will also see the
THE BEST OF THE BEST former watch room being
As well as centrally selling a huge number of converted into a dedicated
high-end brands, including Corum, Blancpain, Fine Jewellery room, inclu-
Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, A. Lange & ding jewellery watches from
‫اناا‬

Söhne and Montblanc - plus new arrivals the likes of Piaget, Backes &
Bremont, John Isaac and Philip Stein and a host of Strauss and Tiffany & Co.
others - the room is fringed with 12 single-brand Expect the doors to open on
boutiques for some of the most prestigious names that in the next few months.
in the game. These include the UK's first stand-
alone boutiques for Vacheron Constantin, IWC,
Richard Mille and Panerai. Sitting alongside them
will be fellow big hitters Rolex, Breguet, Audemars
Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Hublot, Omega and
Chanel.
OMEGA GOES EAST
SPECIAL EDITIONS
There are also some very special watches being Meanwhile, the largest Omega boutique in
produced exclusively for Harrods to mark the Europe, and one of the biggest in the world, has
launch. For the most devoted customers, Vache- opened in Westfield Stratford, the new shopping
ron Constantin has adapted a Patrimony watch to complex that's part of the Olympic development in East
feature an engraving of the Harrods building on London. Omega is the official timekeeper of the Olympics and has
the reverse - ten pieces are available. Corum has brought out a couple of stunning Seamaster editions to celebrate next
created a new automatic golden bridge in rose year's London games. The new boutique can be found near the gateway
gold, while IWC is celebrating with a Portuguese for the Olympic Park and covers two floors and 790sqm. Watches, jewellery,
automatic in red gold with a 7-day power reserve perfume and the new leather collection are all on offer, while there's also a
and a unique dial. Breguet collectors should look glass-fronted repair workshop on site and an Omega exhibition space. It's
out for a version of its Queen of Naples women's Omega’s eight UK store.

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THE UNIVERSE AROUND THE WRIST
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atches vvith astronomical complications are among the

W... complex mechanical creations. They form a separate,

special category with its very own fan club. The simplest
complication is the moon phase indication. But those who want to,

can wear a much bigger piece of the universe around their wrists.

701111 00/24 WATCHWORLD 1 1 k W

 IWC
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IWC PORTUGUESE SIDERALE SCAFUSIA

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 TECHNOLOGY
4111

SATURNUS

SUN, EARTH AND MOON People started to interpret groups of stars that
Since the dawn of mankind the sun and the were close to each other in the firmament (but
moon have been dominant but little-understood that in reality rarely had anything to do with
phenomena. They were intensively studied by each other) as constellations and gave them
old civilisations, also because of their presumed names like Big Bear, Orion, Cassiopeia, Libra, etc.
TOWER CLOCK WITH MOON PHASE, MONTH AND godliness, and solar and lunar eclipses were The constellations appeared to revolve around a
THE POSITION OF THE PLANETS AGAINST THE ZODIAC, considered divine omens, mostly of imminent single star. In about 2800 BC this was Thuban,
FROM PADUA, ITALY disasters. Today we know that the Earth revolves the brightest star of the Dragon constellation.
around the sun and the moon around the Earth. These days it is the Pole Star, the brightest star in
The moon itself does not emit light. The phases the Little Bear constellation. Some constellations
The very first requirement of a movement in a of the moon are caused because the surface of rise in the east and set in the West whereas
clock or watch is telling the time. In the early the moon that is lit by the sun can be seen from others revolve so closely around the Pole Star
days church clocks would indicate the hours the Earth. If the whole surface is visible we have that they remain visible all night.
only, which was enough at that time. Later, a full moon. Sometimes nothing is visible at all Because the Pole Star is not directly above us
minutes were added and later again, seconds, (when the moon is almost directly between the some of the constellations are only visible for
and today that is still all we need. Clock and sun and the Earth: new moon) and sometimes part of the year. This doesn’t mean they are not
watchmakers quickly got bored with this and we can see part of it (the first and last quarter). there, simply that they are in the firmament
started looking for new challenges. They soon A solar eclipse is caused when the moon is during the day and therefore invisible in the
found some, and one complication after the next (virtually) exactly between the Earth and the daylight. Our location on Earth also determines
found its way into movements, initially in sun, and in a lunar eclipse the Earth is between what we see of the firmament: in the southern
church clocks and house clocks, then in pocket the sun and the moon, preventing any sunlight hemisphere it looks quite different from what
watches and finally in wrist watches. from reaching the moon. Other predictors of we see. Other than that, the constellations do not
disaster were sporadic phenomena such as change in a human lifetime.
TWELVE KINDS meteors and comets. Thanks to their relatively
Famous complications that are more than simple cycles it was fairly easy to chart the PLANETS
worthy of that term are the tourbillon and the positions of the sun and the moon. Amidst the stable picture of constellations there
minute repetition. But other complications are were some individual stars for which the
now so common that it is easy to forget they are STARS relatively simple calculations did not work. Only
complications at all, such as automatic winding Clear lights were dominated by a bright, starry much later did it become evident that these
or the various versions of the chronograph. A sky, because there was no light pollution and the “wandering stars” are the planets which, like the
separate group on the list is formed by the Milky Way was clearly visible as a bright band of Earth, revolve around the sun. Planets themselves
astronomical complications, of which the stars. This phenomenon, too, was studied by old do not emit light but reflect the light from the
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie distinguishes civilisations. Only in modern times did it become sun. The brightest were the Morning and
at least 12. This story is about those complications clear that the Milky Way is nothing more than Evening Star, of which it was discovered only
but for background information let’s start with part of the enormous solar system to which our much later that they are one and the same
an introduction to the history of astronomy. sun also belongs. planet: Venus. Venus was described by the 22

72 bäi 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 SWISS MADE.

SELF MADE.
Sir Richard Branson
Founder of Virgin Group.

ж”

From the Gemini Collection

THERE IS A MOMENT WHEN IMAGINATION BECOMES INNOVATION.

Perhaps no one captures this moment more often than Sir Richard Branson. Of course, this
doesn't happen by chance. It happens because he pursues vision. Relentlessly. That is why B | \]A
he wears Bulova Accutron. The timepiece that reinvents accuracy time and again.
Bulova Accutron: Innovation never rests.

For your nearest stockist visit www.bulova.com or email [email protected]

Sir Richard Branson's proceeds as brand ambassador were donated to Virgin Unite, Virgin's non-profit foundation. www.virginunite.com
TECHNOLOGY

Babylonians as early as 1600 BC but was

undoubtedly known long before that, because
the weaker “star” Mercury was mentioned by
these same Babylonians as early as 3000 BC.
Mars (the red planet), Jupiter and Saturn were
also recognised in Ancient times. All these
planets are visible with the naked eye.
Weaker planets were observed thanks to the
development of the telescope: Uranus in 1781,
Neptune in 1846 and Pluto in 1930. However, in
2006 Pluto was downgraded to a dwarf planet, of
which more were found, even further away than
Pluto. The distance from the sun, in descending
order, is: Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter,
Saturn, Uranus and Neptune.

HELIOCENTRIC MODEL
Thanks to the old Greeks like Plato, Aristotle and
Ptolemaeus we knew how all of these celestial
bodies moved in relation to each other:the Earth
was the centre of the universe and the other
celestial bodies revolved around the Earth, the
geocentric model. The Roman Catholic Church
elevated this standpoint to a dogma, which
made it hazardous to suggest a different model,
as Galileo discovered to his detriment. However,
the truth could not remain suppressed forever
and the heliocentric model - which is mostly
associated with the names of Copernicus (1473-
1543) and Johannes Kepler (1571-1630) - eventually
became universally accepted: the planets, and
therefore the Earth as well, revolve around the
sun. The trajectory of the Earth (and of the other
planets) is not perfectly circular, but the
deviation is minor. The movements of the
celestial bodies are described by elementary
laws of physics and can be duplicated with the
aid of cog wheels.

COMPLEX
The trajectories of all the planets are roughly in
the same sphere because the planets were all
formed from a flat "disc" of matter that revolves
around the sun. This disc is also referred to as the
ecliptic plane or “the ecliptic”. The Earth's
rotational axis is inclined at an angle of 23.5* to
this plane as is, therefore, the plane through the
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The C9 Harrison Jumping Hour on alligator strap available in a limited edition of 200 / £1150.00

Exclusively available online

CHRWARD
christopherward.co.uk
 WorldMags
TECHNOLOGY 111

PLANETARIUM THAT SHOWS THE POSITION OF THE

PLANETS DURING DIFFERENT SEASONS

Earth's equator. The Earth's relation to the IT ALL STARTED was revolving around what, apparently Archime-
ecliptic is like that of a spinning top that isn't IN ANCIENT TIMES des (287-212 BC) already had a mechanical instru-
standing straight and - like this spinning top - The history of movements starts with ment, with cog wheels and a pendulum (so not
gravity is making it wobble; the Earth's rotational movements for church clocks, and even for those, driven by a weight or spring) that could predict the
axis slowly traces out a cone shape under the astronomical complications were first positions ofthe sun,the moon and the planets that
influence of the sun's gravitational pull. This incorporated a long time ago. With respect to the were known at that time. This type of instrument,
phenomenon is called "precession". astronomical complications only the solar which is referred to asthe Antikythera mechanism
This precession affects two ways of measuring system and our own Milky Way system with the after the place it was found, was discovered in a
the time. In the solar time that is generally used familiar constellations are relevant; we don't shipwreck in the Mediterranean in 1902 and has
the duration of a day and night (by definition have to worry about all the other solar systems been dated at 150-100 BC. However, the science
24 hours) is determined by the time between the with their infinite number of stars. behind this instrument sank into oblivion before
2 subsequent points when the sun is at its zenith. Despitethe fact that the Ancients had no idea what the fall of the Roman Empire. 22
In sidereal time ("star time") 24 hours are
measured by the time that lapses between two
consecutive passages of the same star along a
fixed meridian. Because of the precession, a
sidereal day is not exactly identical to a solar day
NAVIGATION INSTRUMENT
and is 23.9344696 hours, or 23 hours 56 minutes
and 4.1 seconds.
The dates on which winter turns to summer and
summer turns to winter are called the
"equinoxes". These twice-yearly events are also
the time when the Earth's axis does not point to
the sun or away from the sun. At these times the
days and nights are equal in length.
The precession of the Earth's rotational axis also
shifts the equinoxes over a period of around
20,000 years. A problem that the makers of
astronomical watches do not really have to
worry about.
Along the ecliptic you can picture the Zodiac,
consisting of the 12 star signs that are known
more because of horoscopes than for their
astronomical significance.

76111 OO/24 WATCHWORLD | 1

 ‫کک‬
— BASELWORLD‫‏‬
діс‫‏‬

BASELWORLD
THE WATGRAND/JEWELLERY SHOW
BARC 8-15, 2012

BASELWORLD.COM š
 TECHNOLOGY lii

OUTSIDE EUROPE CASE-BACK OF THE IWC PORTUGUESE SIDÉRALE SCAFUSIA

Quite separate from these and later
developments in Europe, in 11th-century China
Su Song built an astronomical clock that was
powered by water (or maybe mercury) by means
of a paddle wheel. The whole structure was
tucked inside a clock tower that was at least 10m
high. Thanks to surviving descriptions and
drawings it has been possible for a number of
copies of this clock to be made. The most accurate
was the Al-Jazari Castle Clock, which was also
powered by water. This clock had a range of
astronomical complications, including moon
phases and the trajectories of the sun and moon.

EUROPE
From around 1300-1330 mechanical clocks were
being built in Europe that were not powered by
water but by weights, and that had escapements.
Around 1330 Richard of Wallingford in St. Albans
(England) built a clock that was unfortunately
lost but, according to descriptions, displayed
astronomical data. The best described
planetarium clock (also referred to as
"astrarium") from this period, which had no
fewer than 107 cog wheels, was built in Italy by
Giovanni de'Dondi (1318-1389). Prior to this his
father Jacopo had already made a name for
himself in Padua in 1344 with a public
astronomical clock in the Piazza dei Signori, one
of the first clocks of its type. Legend also has it
that de'Dondi finished his astrarium in 1364 (or preserved. This enabled Luigi Pippa to build a 1410. Olomouc, the former capital of Moravia, has
maybe 1380), after 16 years of working on it. number of copies of the clock, one of which, a a very special heliocentric astronomical clock in
Needless to say the mechanisms used in those copy from 1985, can be admired in the Musée its main square that dates back to 1420 but has
days were based on the geocentric model. When International de l'Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux- been modified regularly throughout the
the original of the de'Dondi was lost, perhaps de-Fonds. centuries. In addition to a number of moving
when Mantua was plundered in 1630, it had Although the calculations of the clock builders figures, the clock features two dials above each
already stopped working a long time previously were accurate enough, the clocks themselves other, with the bottom one displaying the time,
as a result of the many repairs. Fortunately the most definitely weren't. This is mostly because the calendar and the phases of the moon. The top
working drawings of the de'Dondi were the metalworking methods of those times could dial displays a star chart with the sun, the Earth
not deliver the required quality. Many of these and the moon against a background of the signs
early movements also had to be repaired of the Zodiac.
frequently, which was not always done in the The Cathedral in Lund in Sweden also had an
most expert way. astronomical clock by the end of the 14th century
which, after having been in storage for more than
THE CHURCHES FOLLOW 80 years, was restored to its former glory in 1923.
Far back in history churches already had clocks,
because it was considered very important that MORE MODERN CLOCKS
the various church services were held at the In the subsequent centuries astronomical clocks
right times. Whereas the first clocks only had a were installed in many churches, and a lot of
single hand for the hours, a minutes hand was them can still be admired today. A recent

`d soon to folow. The movements

subsequently expanded with a range of
were footnote with respect to the Scandinavian clocks
are the clocks designed and built by Rasmus
complications, including astronomical ones. Sornes (1893-1967), a Norwegian clockmaker. His
The Cathedral of Strasbourg got its first last one is perhaps the most complicated clock

<>©; >7ጭ'
I
astronomical clock in 1352-1354, but it stopped
working at the start of the 16th century. A second
ever made, with sunrise and sunset, solar and

A
«27777111 ) clock was built around 1570 and managed to
keep going until 1788 (or 1789). The case of this
second clock was used for the third clock, which
was built around 1840. This clock had numerous
astronomical complications as well as various
moving figures (so-called "automatons").
The Czech Republic is home to various ancient
astronomical clocks. The centre section of the
clock in the old town hall in Prague dates back to

78111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

lunar eclipses, moon phases and tides, the
position of the sun and the moon in the Zodiac,
the Julian and Gregorian calendar, sidereal time
and GMT, a complete planetarium (still including
Pluto) and much more. Oh, and you can see the
local summer and winter time on it as well. And
all that in a case measuring 210 x бох 70cm!
And finally, this overview would not be complete
without the wonder from the Netherlands, the
planetarium of Eise Eisinga in the little town
Franeker, the oldest functioning planetarium in
the world. Eisinga, a wool carder, built the
planetarium in 1774-1781 using 10,000 hand-
forged nails as cogs. Today, Mercury, Venus, the
Earth, Jupiter and Saturn still revolve around the
sun at the correct times. The whole thing is
powered by a pendulum clock and nine weights.

POCKET AND
WRIST WATCHES
An astronomical clock is a clock which, in
addition to the time of day, gives astronomical PATEK PHILIPPE CALIBRE 1989
information. This may be the position of the sun
or moon, the moon phase, the sign of the Zodiac,
the sidereal time or even a revolving star chart. 4.1 seconds (in other words, one sidereal day). complications to such an extent that they
An interesting detail is the fact that astronomical The complications used in astronomical clocks would fit inside a watch case. A tourbillon may
clocks normally use the geocentric model, often form the basis for smaller astronomical be complicated, but many astronomical
with the Earth in the centre of the dial. movements, initially in clocks, then in pocket complications could only be made by the very
In astronomical clocks the hour hand often has watches and finally in wrist watches. best watchmakers and brands. Because of their
a little sun that indicates the time on a 24-hour The advantage of a church clock is that a size, pocket watches were most suitable; the
scale. The year is usually depicted by the 12 clockmaker is not really restricted by the available more sizeable the better.
signs of the Zodiac as a concentric circle within space. For a table clock that is quite different.
the 24-hour scale, or on a smaller, separate These kinds of clocks were a sign of affluence in PATEK PHILIPPE
circle, the projection of the ecliptic plane. The higher circles and it allowed clockmakers to show It is not surprising that Patek Philippe, the
ecliptic dial is the projection of the ecliptic what they were capable of. In Augsburg absolute top watch brand, is also renowned for
plane, shown off-centre on the dial and appears (Germany), for example, clockmakers had to build its astronomical watches. A spectacular example
to be distorted, as a result of the angled position an astronomical table clock if they wanted to get is the so-called Graves Watch, a rather big pocket
of the Earth's rotational axis compared to the the title of Master Clockmaker. watch that Patek Philippe made and delivered in
ecliptic plane. The ecliptic dial makes one It was a logical progression that movement 1933 by order of Henri Graves Jr., an American
revolution every 23 hours, 56 minutes and makers would try to reduce astronomical banker. The watch weighs 540g and its case with 22

I | 00/24. WATCHWORLD 111 79

 TECHNOLOGY

ULYSSE NARDIN
PLANETARIUM
COPERNICUS

7227
>”

mS 74 v
PATEK PHILIPPE GRAVES WATCH
ULYSSE NARDIN
ASTROLABIUM
GALILEO GALILEI
a diameter of nearly 9cm and a height of nearly the more accurate quartz movements when Rolf
2.5cm houses 24 complications. The reverse of Schnyder bought the sad remnants of the
the watch also has a dial which shows the company. He visited watch businesses to gauge
sunrise and sunset, the sidereal time and the the interest in a revitalised Ulysse Nardin and
e D

actual firmament above New York. The Graves during one of his visits he saw an astronomical
——— RL

Watch was auctioned by Sotheby's in New York clock that was being restored by a trainee
in 1999 for not a cent less than 11,003,500 dollars. watchmaker. Schnyder asked whether such
A much later Patek Philippe highpoint is the complications could be built into a wrist watch,
Calibre 1989 from, you guessed it, 1989. This which the trainee considered an interesting
pocket watch has an amazing 33 complications challenge. The trainee was none other than Dr
and the information is shown on 2 main and 12 Ludwig Oechslin, a physicist and astronomer,
subsidiary dials with 24 hands. This watch who built clocks as a hobby. Obviously Schnyder
features a star chart made of sapphire crystal had put his question to the best possible man for
which depicts the Milky Way and 2,800 stars of the job. The first result of the collaboration
the northern hemisphere in five clarity classes. between these two inspired men was the
Patek Philippe continues to release astronomical Astrolabium Galileo Galilei, which went into
complications with some regularity. The Star production in 1985. The astronomical
Calibre 2000 (from 2000) is a pocket watch in a complications of the watch, in addition to the
limited edition of 20. In addition to every moon phase, are the Zodiac, the length of the
possible time and date indicator and a sonnerie, day, dusk and night and the positions of the sun
the hand-wound movement also features a chart
of the firmament and indicates when Sirius and
the moon pass a certain meridian.
Reference 5002 is a Patek Philippe wrist watch,
the Sky Moon Tourbillon. In addition to a
tourbillon and minute repetition the watch has a ULYSSE NARDIN TELLURIUM
number of other complications, of which the JOHANNES KEPLER
most interesting astronomical ones are hidden
at the back. Here you can see the sidereal time,
the moon phase, the trajectory of the moon and
the current star chart.

ULYSSE NARDIN
Ulysse Nardin is a story in its own right. The
brand, which was established in Le Locle in 1846,
had made its reputation mainly with ship's
chronometers and had been all but wiped out by

80111 OO/24 WATCHWORLD | |

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 TECHNOLOGY lii

and moon. This masterpiece is the first one in CHRISTIAAN

the “Trilogy or Time”, to be followed by the VAN DER KLAAUW
Planetarium Copernicus (1988) and the Tellurium Christiaan van der Klaauw is an exceptional
Johannes Kepler (1992). The Planetarium shows clock and watchmaker. He trained at the
the positions of Mercury, Venus, the Earth, Mars, renowned instrument builders’ school in
Jupiter and Saturn, while the dial of the Leiden (the Netherlands), where he also
Tellurium depicts the Earth seen from the North completed a traineeship at the observatory
Pole. Ulysse Nardin is stil making very where Christiaan Huygens worked in the past.
interesting watches and is a pioneer in the area He started with wall clocks and progressed to
of new materials, but the active collaboration table clocks and finally watches, often already
with Ludwig Oechslin ceased in 2001. with astronomical complications. It 15
therefore with good reason that his small
company, which he started in 1974, is called
“Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical
Watches”. The current collection has a number
of special watches.
"Astronomical Masterpieces” are the
Astrolabium, the Planetarium, the Venus, the
Real Moon 1980 and the Eclips. The Astrolabium
is the top model, named after an instrument
that was described more than 2,000 years ago
and has been refined since then, which can be
used to determine the time by the sun or stars.
One version reflects what the firmament looks
like in a certain location at a certain time. The
Van der Klaauw watch shows solar and lunar
eclipses and, among other things, the position
of the sun and the moon in the ecliptic. The
Planetarium shows the revolutions of Mercury,
Venus, the Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn, and
the similarities to the planetarium of Eisinga,
whom Van der Klaauw admires greatly, are not
a coincidence. The beautiful Venus shows the
position of the sun with a red hand on the
Zodiac, but also the positions of the Earth, the
moon and - of course - Venus. The Real Moon
CK REAL
1980 (1980 being the year in which Van der
Moon 1980

°; a
INS

CK ASTROLABIUM CK RETRO MOON CASE-BACK OF THE CK RETRO MOON

82 111 OO/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 amplitude is liable to cause minor deviations
in accuracy. In this case, though, the tourbillon
- which rotates in a titanium cage beneath a
polished steel bridge, carrying a second hand
round with it — ensures an even supply of
power to the escapement. That's crucial to the
small 24-hour dial at 12 o'clock, which tells
sidereal time, or time as it exists in the cosmos,
outside the irregularities of the Earth's orbit.
On the simple, elegant Portuguese dial it is the
one reference to the delights found when you
turn the watch over.
The astronomical map that fills the case-back
is personalised to co-ordinates supplied by the
buyer. Look up to the heavens as you stand on
IWC PORTUGUESE SIDÉRALE SCAFUSIA those co-ordinates on a starry night and
what passes through the charts yellow
horizon circle will match what's visible in the
Klaauw presented a special astronomical clock) IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN skies. Each chart contains between 500 and
shows the moon phase at 6 o'clock and at On 27 August this year IWC presented a special 1000 stars and constellations, and is designed
12 o'clock a vertically moving sun shows how astronomical watch, the Portuguese Sidérale by Professor Ben Moore, a Zurich
high the sun is above the horizon; an eclipse Scafusia. This presentation took place at the University scientist who holds the post once
hand at 3 o'clock shows if there is a solar or Paranal Observatory high in the Chilean Andes, occupied by Einstein.
lunar eclipse anywhere on Earth. A window at part of ESO (European Southern Observatory), Surrounding the chart, a perpetual calendar
12 o'clock shows the revolutions of the sun and and for good reason: IWC's new flagship mechanism counts off the days of the year,
moon, while the aforementioned eclipse hand collectors item is its most complex ever while sunrise and sunset indicators are also set
is at the 6 o'clock position. creation - and arguably its most beautiful too. to the buyer's coordinates and alter with the
A second collection is called "Collection of the A charismatic melding of precision engineering seasons accordingly. The final, heart-stopping
Stars" and it includes a number of special and an almost whimsical sense of wonder at bit of magic, though, is the other way the watch
astronomical watches. In the Retro Moon model the mysteries of the cosmos, it took ten years marks the setting of the sun: the star chart's
a retrograde hand indicates the correct moon for IWC to produce. blue background suddenly melts into a dark
phase, and the Ceres 1974 has the more common One might assume that development time was gray, returning to blue come the dawn.
moon phase indicator. The Orion has a star chart spent devising the dazzling star chart on the IWC is only taking ten orders a year for the
for the northern hemisphere that completely back;in fact, itis the "constant force" tourbillon watch, which then takes a full year to make.
revolves once a day (and makes an extra mechanism, visible through a large window at Little surprise, then, that it costs 750,000 Swiss
revolution every year), while a window linked to the 9 o'clock mark, that is the watch's true francs, though buyers will at least have the
the hour hand shows which part of the celestial technical achievement. As the tension in a honour of having it delivered to them by IWC's
sky is visible. watch's mainspring slackens, the change in top executives. >?

I | 00/24 WATCHWORLD LEI 83

 WorldMags
TECHNOLOGY lii

HUBLOT ANTIKYTHERA

HUBLOT
Also Hublot presented on 19 October this year an Greek bronzes, glassware, pottery and jewellery.
astronomical watch: the Hublot Antikythera One unattractive item was a calcified lump with
calibre 2033-CHo1, bases on the mechanism of the size of a phone book. When, months later, it
Antikythera. The story goes like this: in 1900 a fell apart the remains of corroded bronze
storm drove a party of sponge divers to the tiny gearwheels and plates covered in scientific
Mediterranean island Antikythera, between scales and Greek inscriptions came to light: the
mainland Greece and Crete. After the storm the remains of a scientific instrument, since then
divers dived for sponges and chanced on the known as the Antikythera mechanism. In 1905,
wreck of a ship that went down about 2000 the German philologist Albert Rehm was the
years before. With backing from the Greek first person who realised that the mechanism
government the divers recovered many ancient was an astronomical calculator. Fifty years later,

Ce"
To
е H
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Bs. #
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84111 OO/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 (ር WorldMags

Derek John de Solla Price of the Institute of

Advanced Studies in Princeton, United States,

vie
suggested that the mechanism was operated by
turning a crank on its side and that pointers on
LUMINOR
dials, located on the front and back, displayed PANERAI

the results. Price first identified the remains of a

dozen gears and in a later article described
27 gears in the main fragment, based on an x-ray
investigation by Charalambos Karakalosx, a
Greek radiologist.

RECENT RESEARCH
In 2000 astronomer Mike Edmunds, of Cardiff
University in Wales, told Tony Freeth, an
award-winning documentary maker who also
holds a Ph.D. in mathematical logic, about the
Antikythera mechanism. Edmunds and Freeth
gathered an international collaboration,
including historians, astronomers and
imaging experts. A vvindfall vvas the discovery months covering 18 years) and the Exeligmos are also present. For some of the functions
of more fragments in a basement storage of a cycle (three Saros cycles), the Metonic cycle Hublot had to develop noncircular telescopic
Greek museum, so that the group could (19 years, equal to 235 lunar months) and the hands. The amazing and beautiful Hublot’s
investigate 82 fragments instead of the Callippic cycle (76 years or 940 lunar months). calibre, with 495 parts (69 jewels) and a
original 20. The group succeeded in frequency of 21,600 vph, measures 30.40 x
reconstructing how nearly all the surviving HUBLOT ANTIKYTHERA 38mm, and is 14.14mm thick.
parts worked and what functions they It will be no surprise that some watchmakers
performed. Freeth described this fascinating were intrigued. One of them was Matthias PANERAI
investigation in detail in Scientific American, Buttet, current Director of Manufacturing and A more utilitarian take on ideas similar to those
December 2009. R&D at Hublot. The challenge was to construct a displayed in IWC's Siderale Scaffusia is Panerai's
miniature recreation of the entire mechanism astronomical beauty, launched last year: the
HOW IT WORKS inatimepiece and the result, Hublot Antikythera Luminor 1950 Equation of Time Tourbillon
The bronze gears of the Antikythera mechanism calibre 2033-CHo1, was recently presented by LAstronomo. Limited to just 50 pieces, it is the
were housed in a wooden box measuring Hublot at the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris, most complicated watch the brand has created,
approximately 33 x 18cm, sealed with bronze the museum where an exhibition entitled but stil reflects the sturdy, no-nonsense
front and back plates covered with dials. Its "Antikythera, the enigmatic machine which pragmatism beloved of the Paneristi.
origin is possibly Syracuse, at that time an arose from the depths of time" is held (this At first glance it is a very recognisable Luminor
important Greek colony on Sicily, and it dates calibre will also be shown at BaselWorld 2012). timepiece - the cut-out "sandwich" dial markings,
probably from around 87 BC. The mechanism is The known indications of the Antikythera the cushion-shaped case and the protected crown
not a clock showing the time, but by turning the mechanism are reproduced on the front and on housing are all present and correct, along with
crank the user would choose a date on the the back. The functions of the calibre (with small seconds and date indicators.
Egyptian, 365-day calendar dial and then read manual winding) are: hours, minutes, and, via a But there's more going on here - much more.
the astronomical predictions for that time, such flying tourbillon cage, seconds. The position of Above the 6 o'clock mark, a digital counter
as the position and phases of the moon and the the sun is shown, as is the position of the moon marks the Equation of Time (the difference
rising and setting of important stars. The Greeks in the Zodiac and the moon phase. The sign of between solar time and "mean solar time”,
used a number of astronomical cycles and the Zodiac is given, and dials show the Egyptian variable by around 15 minutes plus or minus),
several of them can be used instead of the calendar and the calendar for the Panhellenic while markers either side of the dial indicate
Egyptian calendar, e.g. the Saros cycle (223 lunar games. The different Greek astronomical cycles sunrise and sunset. That's adjustable to a city of
the buyer's choice, as is the rotating star chart
| "^ TUM E ` DO » ЖД T ig >g r V die | displayed through a porthole window on the
T ect: back of the watch. Here we also see a power
ECL, DAZo Fir
Xa `Ж Ke ier o Wis KT)
-

j°
“A. በሰልፍ: [Perinat reserve indicator (up to 4 days), tourbillon
. ያ ч I
m.” n J. ያ escapement and the fitting legend "Tribute to
< i 1
а Galileo Galilei".
$ R. h

With a three-barrel tourbillon movement

executed entirely in-house it is as much a
statement of technical capability by Panerai as
it is a celebration of the cosmos.

AND FINALLY
Asisthe case for many other complications, one
may wonder what the point is of having
astronomical complications in watches. With
an astronomical watch, a watch brand proves
that its watchmakers have mastered the most
difficult complications. But for the aficionado
2181418 the most important thing is how incredibly
"нин
"эш clever these complications are and, equally
пm-
"se шщ E ш important, how beautiful they often are88

I | 00/24. WATCHWORLD ER 85
 የሃ WorldMags
INTERVIEW ІІ By Timothy Barber

CHRISTOPHER WARD 5
VALUE PROPOSITION
00/24 WatchWorld meets the man reconciling affordability Littlewoods. A working class Liverpudlian, he
cites his mother for "always being on my
and high-class watchmaking with his eponymous brand. shoulder telling me to look for good value in
things." After selling his consultancy in 2004,
he reckoned his instinct for value could feasibly
Not long after Christopher Ward's company A STEP FORWARD be applied to watches. He formed a partnership
first started selling its watches in 2005, a page "From a design perspective and from a horolo- with a couple of acquaintances, Mike France
for discussing them appeared on a major gical aspect, we're really spreading our wings and Peter Ellis, who had made fortunes from
internet watch forum. Since the English brand and taking flight," Ward says, and it would be selling the Early Learning Centre toyshop
had apparently arrived out of nowhere selling hard to disagree. The significant novelty is a chain. The trio reasoned that selling mechanical
mechanical watches at suspiciously low prices, snazzy Jumping Hour dress watch that is the watches directly to customers - initially
the website's moderators concluded the page first Christopher Ward piece to carry a modi- through magazine adverts, but quickly
must have been a front to promote the business, fied movement. "It's an ETA 2824 with a module migrating to internet sales - could prune much
and threw its founders off the site. In fact, applied that allows the hour to jump," Ward of the spending that inflates watch prices. "If
genuine enthusiasts had discovered the brand says. "It's done differently to most jumping you look at most of the mid-level boys in the
and become intrigued by its aim, as Ward says, hours and enables the watch to conserve power Swiss industry, they're all fishing from the
"to make the cheapest most expensive watches and be more accurate." same pond as us," says Ward. "We're all using
in the world." Instead these people set up their ETA 2824 movements and Valjoux 7750s. The
own web forum, one that now has over 3,000 PRICE LEVELS movements are the same, and the rest of the
members and 70,000 discussion threads (to Ward, now 51, came to the watch industry after components are a small percentage of the final
ensure its independence, neither Ward nor any a career as a textiles buyer and consultant, price anyway, so we're in spitting distance of
of his team has ever posted on it). working with brands like Reebok, Disney and each other at the start point."

86111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 WorldMags

The difference comes in the overheads - with continue supplying us, he says. “But any
an office of just 12 and direct access to his pragmatic brand needs a plan B, especially when
customers, Ward can operate at far more you're growing at the pace we are. We may have an
competitive price levels. "We can make a watch opportunity, with a small group of like-minded
for £100 and sell it for £300 and make a brands, do develop a limited suite of movements
margin," says Ward. "A Swiss brand makes the and industrialise those."
same kind of watch for £100, but has distributor
and retailer costs, shops, brand ambassadors, WATCH THIS SPACE
marketing campaigns, all kinds of middlemen For now, technological developments include
- suddenly that £100 has become £1,000.” the release of the first two COSC-certified
Christopher Ward chronometers, and that
ETA, VALJOUX, Jumping Hour watch - a timepiece Ward believes
SELITA, AND... encapsulates the company's value offer. "It's our
While a few years ago only 30 per cent of Ward's first watch over the £1,000 mark - but from one
sales were mechanical these now account for 55 of the big Swiss brands it would be a £10,000
per cent and climbing, with around 200 watches watch," he asserts. Next year will bring an
available. This year he expects to sell around interesting variation on a chronograph. "It will
20,000 pieces, at an average price of around £275. be the sort of thing another brand would put out
Solid, smartly masculine models like the C9 range at £15,000 but that we'll do under £2,000." mainstream brands have approached him about
and Rolex-inspired C60 Trident diving watches are If Ward cannot compete for heritage with the buying the business to acquire the internet
the backbone of the collection. great Swiss marques, what he can draw on is the platform ready made - the answer, of course, has
Ward's is far from the only company applying this notion of Englishness. It's a card played with been no. "I think we've got a march on pretty
business model - Debaufre in America and great subtlety - as with Bremont, there are no much everybody in this respect, he says,
Steinhart in Germany are among the comparable Union Flag designs or RAF roundels, thank admitting the timing has been spot on for his
enterprises overseas. goodness - but it's there nonetheless. company. "Times are tight; people are looking
Like them, Ward must navigate an increasingly Rebranding has coincided with a svvish, for value more than ever. They don't want to
complex landscape when it comes to movement information-heavy redesign of the website, shell out for extraneous stuff, but they still want
supply. While ETA's workhorse 2824 and Valjoux which remains the only way to purchase a high quality – that's what we do.”
7750 calibres are the mainstays of the collection, Christopher Ward watch. Ward says two www.christopherward.co.uk
Swatch Group's gradual restrictions on the ETA
supply chain necessitate other long-term plans.

“© People don't want to shell out

Ward also uses Selita movements (the Selita SW200
is a direct alternative to ETA's 2824) but most
interestingly, he's drawing up plans to create

for extraneous stuff; they still want

movements in partnership with some other
producers. "There's no doubt that ETA are cutting
back gradually,though we have a great relationship
with them and Selita and they've said they'll
high quality - thats what we do g g

Christopher Ward
LONDON

С ZOO
AUTOMATIC

I | 00/24. WATCHWORLD LE 87
 = . HN 00/24 WATCHWORLD NEWSLETTER
Ca! wi Zär Comey’ v ! " 2:

Н Watc hWo rid 5 z "lc Would you like to be kept informed about the latest watch news
ሸን ትም ምው >
ው>5።፥።፣ ም — automatically? Simply subscribe to the 00/24 WatchWorld newsletter.
Hublot and the Antikythera mechanism is өтен a With this free service you will automatically receive up-to-date
5፡55 тастечала! моки паз
ше ሞቆ тупого Anteyner North American edition! watch news in your inbox every month. Scan the code with the
^ mecnan go ғо Me eg 2 . . i

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=” arose PON me dept o! tiw а њен

д Choperc Happy Mickey Cobecton

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Chopard Happy Mickey Cosecton ton pisce À very ugue
cooperatıon deissen Wat Caney and Croperd

New Roles ambassador. Tiger Woods

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Tae Woods 00/24 blogs WATCH FAIR ON FACEBOOK
on Standard tme no longer in Greenwich? e ғ El
The world's first digital International Watch
Fair on Facebook was held from 6-9 September.
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lesser-known brands. During this 4-day fair
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5 Y.
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Koeo 53 Me post of C^! Operating Сбсее
(COO). wt effect fom October 1, 2011

DIGITAL TIDES
The tide is a natural phenomenon that is directly associated with time. For
sailors it is extremely important to know when it is high tide and low tide. A
tide table is therefore a kind of bible for professional yachters and sailors.
ChronGlobal came up with an idea: the Tide Chronoscope mobile phone app.
This application shows you the tides in a simple, watch-size graphic depiction.
Not just for fishermen and sailors, of course: also useful for recreational sailing!
www.chronglobal.com

DONATE WITH JUST A CLICK

For some time now, Raymond Weil has been
supportingthe VH1Save The MusicFoundation,
a non-profit organisation that aims to put
music education back on the American
curriculum. The Raymond Weil Facebook page
—— now has a new function: for every click on the
[erme] Ke "Donate now" button the brand donates
1 dollar. www.facebook.com/raymondweil

ATTEND THE VOLVO OCEAN RACE WITH IWC

IWC is raffling off online VIP tickets to the Volvo Ocean Race, one of the most difficult around-the-world
yacht races. The VIP tickets include plane tickets, hotel accommodation and an IWC Portuguese Yacht Club
Chronograph. In addition you are entitled to participate in one of the harbour races, you will pay a visit to the
Volvo Ocean Race Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing Boat and you will attend an exclusive meet-and-greet with the
yachting team that is sponsored by IWC. The first "experience" took place during the start in Alicante, Spain,
on 29 October. The second "experience" will be in Miami, Florida, on 19 May 2012. Want to be in the running
for one of these tickets? Go to www.iwc.com/money-cant-buy-experiences before 16 March 2012, enter your
details and answer this question: "Who established the International Watch Company in 1868?"

00/24 WATCHWORLD! I
 M
ጫ
r:
COMPLLK
LE ST

Rss AROUND THE =

AS | d Ni

The lost watch glory of ው

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| | 00/24 WATCHWORLD | I | | 89
imothy Barbe
 WorldMags

THE WATCH WORLD'S

COMEBACK KID ж
TE:

he striking return to form of Zenith watches is not the first

time the manufacture has been saved from disarray.

00/24 WatchWorld looks into the past to find a parallel with

the present.

A fascinating insight into the fluctuating of cheap quartz watches. It makes for an Primero equipment and parts in the
fortunes of Zenith is to be found, strangely intriguing parallel with the manufacture's aforementioned attic. When the American
enough, at the top of a shabby stairwell in the current reawakening from misadventure and company lost interest and sold the watch business
back of its Swiss HQ. Clamber up a few floors and striking return to form. inthe late 1970s, thanks to Vermot Zenith still had
you arrive at a rickety landing held together the capacity to make El Primero movements. Bear
with wooden slats. It's not an area people come CHARLES VERMOT in mind that a single stamping press cost 40,000
to now - the paint is peeling, and a rust-coated So, the backstory. In 1971 Zenith, a brand always francs, and the El Primero required over 150 of
industrial chain dangling from a pulley hasn't renowned for its technical excellence and the them - sums that a newly uncoupled Zenith could
born a heavy load in years. But the landing leads record-breaking precision of its watches, was never have run to. As well as putting them in its
through to a ramshackle attic containing a taken over by Zenith Radio Corporation, a US own watches, the company supplied the calibres
horological treasure horde. electronics manufacturer with a need to clear out to other brands - most famously to Rolex for its
The room is stuffed with dust-coated watch too- branding confusions and an eye on the Daytona chronograph. Slowly but surely, Zenith
ling. Beneath the eves, shelves sag with scores of burgeoning quartz market. In 1975 the crept back into life as a serious watch manufacture.
old stamping presses and cutting tools; hundreds management decided to strip the Le Locle factory “He was a genius, he saved the company,” says
of base plates and movement blanks are stacked of its production equipment for mechanical current CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour of Monseiur
on tables, unmoved in decades; peculiar applian- watches. This would include tooling for the El Vermot. “If it wasn’t for him, Zenith would have
ces with tubes, dials and gauges are swamped in Primero, Zenith's magnificent, world-first been an empty shell.”
piles of wires and the unquantifiable clutter of integrated chronograph movement, which
long-forgotten workshops. wowed the industry with its high-beat speed and DEFY
This room and its arcane contents in fact accuracy on its 1969 launch. A cynic might argue that Zenith had become a
represent Zenith's salvation from the ignominy The head of the chronograph studio, Charles different kind of empty shell by the time Dufour,
of being converted, in the 1970s, into a producer Vermot, had other ideas, and stashed vital El formerly of Chopard, landed in the hot seat in >>

111 91
 WorldMags
||| INTERVIEW |||

ZENITH WATCHMAKER AND JEAN LOUIS ETIENNE, EXPLORER

f
remarkably affordable for a watch of serious
complexity made in-house. Then there's the new
` El Primero Pilot, a smart, black-dial aviation
“ piece with two subdials, which retails at under
£5,000. For the price of many chronographs with
standard ETA calibres, you get a watch produced
entirely in-house containing the best series-
produced chronograph movement on the market.

ZENITH-MADE
"Ive flipped around the pyramid,” says Dufour.
"We had a really low offer at the bottom of the
range and a large offer on the top, and I decided
we should do the opposite, with an entry-level
price point that was lower by € 1,000. Our aim is
simply to be the best quality in the segment
from € 5,000 to € 10,000."
Dufour's astute enough to realise that producing
more affordable watches doesn't affect the
brand's prestige when you emphasise the quality
of the offer, the heritage from which it stems -

-
ar its remarkable that Zenith still creates its
watches on the same site as it did in 1865 - and
2009. His predecessor, Thierry Nataf, took the the fact of every piece containing a Zenith-made
brand in an ostentatious direction that may well movement. Zenith is positioned to compete with
have reflected the exuberance of the boom years Rolex, for instance, but with the one added value
- and gained much attention for Zenith in the the uber-brand can never claim. "We're exclusive
process - but with hindsight seems a recklessly — we've produced in 40 years the same number of
eccentric departure from its heritage. To put it watches Rolex produces a year," Dufour says. "In
another way, the watches - in particular the the world of manufacture you cannot produce
big-ticket Defy range - were aesthetic and what we do at the price we do. Other brands can't
conceptual goofs. Retailers didn't want do this. This is our victory, and it's because we've
them in their shop windows and done it for 150 years."
customers, even if they could afford The next step in Dufour's revolution is a major
them, didn't want them on their reorganisation of the factory itself, with the
wrists. “It was too much on the fashion paraphernalia in the attic - the remnants of
side," says Dufour. "When you're a M. Vermot's heroic act - eventually to be housed in
manufacture, you can't be driven by a new Zenith museum. For the time being, the
fashion. All the eggs were in the Defy room still acts as a reminder that when wrong
basket, and the concept was just too high to turns are taken, a brand's way back is often by
fade the economic crisis." doing again what it alway did best.M

NEW REFERENCES
It's the speed with which Dufour has carried out
his mission to return Zenith to its roots - classic
timepieces, technical excellence, El Primero to the
fore - that has been surprising. He's not only
replaced the previous collection with a slew of neo-
retro pieces — a remarkable 130 new references in
just two years - but is doing so at price points that
lay down a challenge to his competitors.
Consider the latest innovation, for instance, the
Winsor (we'l forgive what seems a spelling
mistake to an English audience). A combination
of El Primero movement and ingenious annual
calendar complication in the dressy Captain
range,
EL PRIMERO FLYBACK STRATOS ngs, 1it has a guide
guide price
price of just £6,300
of ju 3 -

E E This is our victory, and

its because we ve done
it for 150 years ያያ
EL PRIMERO PILOT ACIER

92 111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 Z | ሥ
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 || NEWS ІІ By Kristian Haagen

ONLY WATCH 2011

RESULT:
3.9 MILLION POUNDS
FOR CHARITY
O nce again Patek Philippe made headlines. This time with Only Watch is a bi-annual auction that funds
money for children with Duchenne Muscular
a unique timepiece at the Only Watch 2011 auction held in Dystrophy.
Adisorder that causes reduced muscle
strength, especially in arms and legs, but also
Monaco, thanks to a unique watch which was especially made breathing problems. The idea of the auction is
simple and effective: watch manufacturers make
for this event. specially for the auction an exceptional timepiece
that they donate to the auction. Antiquorum, one
of the biggest watch auction houses in the world,
could auction 40 watches. On September 23 it
resulted in exactly £3,324,180: twice as much as
the result in 2009.

> ..
2 — — EN
` ~ Oe o
f “ Ké
7
2 1

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS BLU RICHARD MILLE HARRY WINSTON

£ 184,900 8 258,000 £ 438,600 % 157,600

94 1111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |

 | ) Read more about Only Watch 2011 on www.oo24watchworld.co.uk.
—

SATISFIED truly spectacular vvatch received an equally one-minute tourbillon and power reserve on the
Under the continuing support of H.S.H. Prince spectacular result of £184,900. front side, chronograph on the reverse, registers
Albert II of Monaco, patron of the foundation, the The BLU Gagarin Platinum Flying Tourbillon is a and povver reserve indication. The X-VVatch
auction had auction room attendees, as well as wonderful timepiece featuring a large flying received a winning bid of £352,600.
online and telephone bidders, enthralled. The tourbillon as vvell as a magnifying glass that can
former group included the CEO” of some of a be turned to get a closer look at the cities printed MASTERPIECE
number of vvatch companies offering pieces. One on the dial, as vvell asthe impressive decoration of Self-proclaimed petrolhead Richard Mille is
of the many spectacular vvatches that got a great the world. Named after Yuri Gagarin, whose known for his over-the-top designs and
result was the MB&F HM4 Thunderbolt Flying debut space flight occurred 5o years ago this year, remarkable horological creations, though the
Panda to which the Chinese artist Huang and is engraved with “First Man in Space -12 April already-famed RM 027 worn by tennis star Rafael
Hankang added a playful miniature solid gold 1961 - Duration 108 Min" on the case-back. This Nadal is neither a unique nor nevv vvatch.
detachable "flying panda” riding the watch. A watch received a winning bid of £258,000. Hovvever the lightvveight tourbillon vvatch of only
wonderfully childish approach to horology that 21 grams is actual vvorn by the vvinning tennis
saw a £146,200 vvinning bid, making it the sixth EXCEPTIONAL player when he won the 2011 Monte Carlo
highest result of the day. "I am very happy for Luc Unconventional designs seemed to rock the championship. The watch received a winning bid
Pettavino and his amazing drive to make a better auction. Sure enough, the DeWitt “X-Watch” of of £438,600 which is pretty much the suggested
world. It makes all we have done worthwhile," titanium and steel looks more like a prop from retail price of the normal RM 027 that was
wrote Maximilian Büsser of MB&F on his the "Transformers" than a wrist watch. Looking at produced in 50 pieces - and sold out, mind you!
Facebook profile after the auction. Luc Pettavino this watch you can't help thinking of what it Unsurprisingly Patek Philippe was the
is the president of the Association of Monégasque would transform into if you push on a secret showstopper and a true bidding frenzy started
contre les Myopathies and founder of Only Watch. hidden button. However, rather than an when the unique steel reference 3939 with
Harry Winston also proved that its vvatches are intergalactic robot the X-Watch offers instead tourbillon and minute repeater was offered.
popular with the watch aficionados and connois- double bi-retrograde hours and minutes, visible Reference 3939 was previously only offered in
seurs around the world. The platinum 45mm Mid- platinum or gold, which makes this steel version
night GMT Tourbillon Refined complication offers highly collectable and a treasured timepiece for
a worldtimer indicator featuring Monaco as one the winner of the auction. The winning bid was a
of the 24 cities applied to the disc. The unique stunning 1.2 million pounds, an amount that had
watch received a winning bid of £137,600. the auction room almost boil over with
Van Cleef & Arpels is famed for its dreamy, excitement, and several high fives among the
decorative vvatches that often tell a story, and the impressed onlookers.İli
Poetic Complication is no exception. A beautiful,
hand-made champleve enamel black jade dial
dominates the vvhite gold vvatch, a fascinating
piece with hands shaped as a rocket and star. This

MB&F DEWITT PATEK PHILIPPE

£ 146,200 < 352,600 = 1,200,000

I | 00/24 WATCHWORLD 111 95

 (7 WorldMags
NEWS 1и By Ellen Stoffels

hos

good watch is not just a privilege for men: women also

place high demands on what they wear on their wrist. 00/24
WatchWorld makes a selection of the latest top models for her.

Mene መ ን ተቐ EEN

Zenith is adding a women's watch to its successful

(mainly masculine) El Primero 36,000 VPH line: a
`

This is a watch in the increasingly popular mid- chronograph with an automatic movement (the new
size range: the 36mm. The case is made of steel El Primero 400 calibre), but with a smaller case
and, thanks to a screwed-in crown, water diameter, namely 38mm. The look of the watch will
resistant to 300m. The bezel is made of steel or appealto women thanks to its rose gold case, with 120
ceramic and is unidirectional. There is a version diamonds on the bezel and a further 44 on the case.
that has diamonds as the hour indicators on the The dial features a small seconds hand (9 o'clock) and
white or black dial. The strap is black or white date indicator (half past 4). The chronograph consists
rubber with a folding clasp. Prices start at £1070. of a subsidiary dial with 12-hour indicator (6 o'clock),
www.oris.ch 30-minute indicator (3 o'clock), chronograph hand
and tachymeter scale. www.zenith-watches.com

(——( ው ርን 5E

German watch manufacture Nomos has somew-

hat of a reputation when it comes to producing
series of watches with differently
coloured dials. With the
Теїта+ the brand takes
things a step further.
The well-known Tetra
model with its squa-
re case is now availa-
Jasmine is a completely new women’s collection from
Raymond Weil, with a choice of a quartz movement
ble in four special ver-
or a mechanical movement (38-hour power reserve),
sions in which the
stainless steel or rose gold, the well-known round
colour of the dial is
identical to that of a case with a diameter of 29 or 35mm and a bracelet of
steel, steel with rose gold, or a leather strap. The
pair of matching ladies'
watches are also available with diamonds if desired.
gloves supplied by renow-
The silver dial has blue hands, Roman numerals and a
ned brand Roeckl. If possi-
date indicator at 3 o'clock. Prices start at £1,020.
ble the names are even more
beautiful than the watches: www.raymond-weil.com
Mäusedorn, Erzgebirgsperle,
Burgundertrüffel and Blasser
Zonenmilchling. Prices from
£1,030. Please note: not all
Nomos dealers sell these models.
www.nomos-glashuette.com

C9 For the complete sales info, visit www.oo24watchworld.co.uk.

—
96111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |
 (# WorldMags

atelier-zuppinger.ch

Governor
An elected officia
ог a part 1n а
striking watch?

Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking

at www.hautehorlogerie.org

НІГІ-
FONDATION u
HAUTE HORLOGERIE
The Foundation’s Partners: A. Lange & Söhne |Antoine Preziuso |Audemars Piguet |Baume & Mercier |Bovet |Cartier |Chanel |Chopard |Corum |Fédération
de l'industrie horlogère suisse |Girard-Perregaux |Greubel Forsey | Harry Winston | Hermès | Hublot | IWC |Jaeger-LeCoultre |JeanRichard | Montblanc
Musée d'art et d'histoire de Genève |Musée d'Horlogerie Beyer, Zürich |Musée d'horlogerie du Locle, Château-des-Monts |Musée international d'horlogerie,
La Chaux-de-Fonds |Panerai |Parmigiani |Perrelet | Piaget | Richard Mille |Roger Dubuis |TAG Heuer |Vacheron Constantin |Van Cleef & Arpels |Zenith
 4 WorldMags
NEWS İri

Rd

The designers at Bulgari can't get enough of it: the new Bvlgari Bvlgari с ^—

collection, which has been а success for the past 34 years, consists of
<
14 different models that are available with a quartz movement (with a
26mm case) and a mechanical movement (33mm and 37mm), in steel or rose
gold. And of course the famous double Bulgari logo is incorporated into the
bezel. The mother-of-pearl dial depicts the hours with Roman numerals or with
diamonds. Each watch has an interchangeable strap so it can be made to suit to any
occasion. The medium sized watch (33mm) is available for approximately £8,100.
www.bulgari.com

—TOÇP
Don't expect sporty models from Ebel but rather Omega presented its latest women's collection,
classical, very feminine and high-quality "Ladymatic": the watches come in rose gold with a
watches, like the new Brasilia: a quartz watch brown dial. When looking at the case (34mm) the bezel,
with a rectangular case of just 23.7mm with a richly embellished with diamonds, stands out. The case-
v.
Q
silver-coloured guilloche dial in the middle and
A
back features a sapphire crystal through which the
blue hands. Roman numerals depict the hours. movement (calibre 8521) can be seen. This movement
The Ebel signature is incorporated at uses the silicon Si 14 balance spring, which makes the
3 o'clock: two "E's" back-to-back. The yellow gold watch more resistant to shocks. Available from £23,300.
version is available for approximately £10,300 www.omega.com
and the yellow gold version inlaid with
34 diamonds from £12,000. www.ebel.com

MM mee f f e ne

Finally: Richard Mille has managed to "translate" his striking style into a women's watch! For the design
Richard Mille solicited the assistance of none other than movie actress Michelle Yeoh, seen in "The
Mummy”, "Memoirs of a Geisha" and "Tomorrow Never Dies" among others. It is a light, elegant and
romantic watch with clear Asian influences. The dial depicts a Phoenix; according to Chinese legend
this is the symbol for the Empress and one of the friendliest birds. Another symbolic component is the
black onyx, said to be capable of eliminating negative feelings. The RM 051 is available in a limited
edition of eighteen, price upon request. www.richardmille.com

C9 For the complete sales info, visit www.oo24watchworld.co.uk.

‎‫د‬
98 111 00/24 WATCHWORLD | |
 C.S. Bedford is a unique family run jewellers in North
West London which, since its opening in 1922, has
built up an excellent reputation and is now regarded
as one of Greater London's foremost retailers
in luxury fine watches, both new and pre-owned, as
well as designer jewellery and giftware.
We house a breathtaking collection of jewellery,
giftware (including unique pieces of designer
glassware) and watches for both men and women
from leading luxury brands and designers around
the world including Omega, Breitling, Corum,
Raymond Weil, Chronoswiss, TVV Steel and
Longines.
Of utmost importance is our relaxed atmosphere,
knowledge and outstanding service. VVe invite you
to come instore and view our ranges.

Vd в

We аге proud to present our very first shop

ambassador, Vinnie Jones - football legend and
now Hollywood actor with many box office hits to
his credit. Vinnie is photographed at his Hollywood
home wearing a TW Steel watch.

Gel

La BEDFORD
135 High Street, Ruislip, Middlesex
t:01895 632100
www.csbedford.co.uk
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and current offers please email your contact details to:
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