Suggested Order of the build, read this before you start.

This is what | would do, you may want to do your own thing if you know what you are doing.

Insert the lowest components first, the wire link followed by the transistor sockets or resistors if laying
them flat to the board. You may find it better to stand the resistors upright and bend the leg down so
that they fit onto the board better. The only components that may get damaged by heat are the
transistors. So solder the sockets then plug the transistors in afterwards.

_ _ 330R
OT Orange, Orange, Black, Black, Brown
ee __. 8.2K
Grey, Red, Black, Brown, Brown

ee 33K
Orange, Orange, Black, Red, Brown
siiainene—— 100K
Brown, Black, Black, Orange, Brown

Where a component has long legs bend the legs a little on the reverse so that they dont fall out when
you turn the board over. Another method is to hold the components with a little bit of sticky tape until
they are soldered in.

Turn the board over and solder the legs. Clip the legs off close to the board. Insert the next largest
components and solder them in, and clip the legs.

When inserting the electrolytic capacitors (the round ones) make sure the leg marked as negative goes
in as per the diagram. The negative side has the stripe and the short leg. The box capacitor can go in
either way round,

If you solder something in the wrong place you can remove the component by heating up one leg and
pulling a little with some pliers, then the other leg. If you work back and forward the part should come
out mm by mm.

A common issue with stripboard and stripboards is that it is quite easy to bridge the strips with a blob of
solder or a leg that has not been snipped off enough. So check this. If you are not sure you can use a
multimeter on the continuity setting (or resistance) and check that there is no connection between
adjacent tracks.

Make sure the transistors go in with the legs the right way round, look at the Base Collector and Emitter
legs, look at the diagram and work out which leg needs to go into which hole. Not all transistors have
the same case or lead out.

The next stage is to wire everything up. Follow the diagram, and take your time. You may want to do
this in stages. Plan it out first, if you wire up everything outside of the case you will probably be able to
get at the solder junctions more easily, however make sure it will all go back in without the wires getting
in the way.

I find that it is a good idea to tin everything first. So tin the ends of the wire, and the parts that the wire
will join onto. If both have a small layer of solder on you will find the solder flows more easily when they
are joined. | recommend using standard (old school) 60% Tin 40% Lead solder with a rosin core. |
have found the lead free stuff not as easy to use. Lead is of course not good for you, so clean your
hands after using it.
Mount the pots, then the sockets and switch. The battery will be a tight fit but because the lid is slightly
recessed it will fit in fine, when the lid is on it will be snug and not rattle around.
Make sure the bottom of the board in insulated from the case. There is a piece of foam sticky tape
included which you can use.

The battery should go either straight across the bottom just above the screw holes, it will not fit
diagonally. Or it will go by the side of the switch.

You can now plug a guitar in and test the Fuzzbox out. Note that the input (stereo socket) switches the
battery on when a plug is inserted.
If it is all working you can then tighten all the bolts, add the knobs and screw the lid on.

You may of course want to decorate the case. | have had success with car spray paint, and also
household oil based paint, you can sometimes buy little tester ports quite cheaply. Hammerite is also
good.

The view of this stripboard diagram is from the component side.

Fuzzface - Stripboard layout of Andrew Carrell's schematic

layout by Nocentelli

+9y —_~, EE

Input ald
@) ea anes Fuzz 2

ee ©, mt Resistors can be
Se FUZZ 3 = mounted upright
A, g Fuzz 1
a
Wire link

[®) =Cutintrack Ri: 33K C1: 2.2uF Q1:BC108 Fuzz Is 1K lin

R2: 330R C2: 22uF Q2:BC108 Vol is 100K log
R3: 8.2K C3: 0.01Luf Red Box
Vol 2 is output
R4: 100K
Vol 3 is grounded

Fuzzface Striy
Out - Iin-3
2Pole Pole

Central 3
connectors can be
used for an LED
Adding a DC Socket and LED

For power, replace the + and - from the battery clip and wire them to the DC socket instead.

For the LED, there is one set of 3 spare terminals on the switch, use the terminals as in the
diagram below to complete a circuit with the led and a current limiting resistor. The resistor can be
between about 1k and 10k and the brightness will be determined by the value. A 1K resistor will be
brighter than a 10k resistor.

+ -«
DC
Socket

1K Resistor