Overview

Korean culture is taking the world by storm. Spanning popular

culture such as pop music, TV dramas and films, Hallyu (Korean
Wave) is expanding its influence in sectors like literature and
performing arts. Korean food is no exception. From dishes served
at Buddhist temples to kimchi, bulgogi (marinated grilled beef) and
bibimbap (bowl of rice mixed with meat and assorted vegetables),
Korean cuisine is loved by people around the world.

Despite the global fervor for many aspects of Korean culture, alcohol
is relatively lacking in recognition. Booze is a must in a setting with
good music, dance and food. So why is Korean alcohol relatively
unknown to most outside of Korea?

The Korea.net series “Hidden Charms of Korea: Sool” explores the

nation’s alcoholic beverages and culture and the stories behind them.

Soju, which is widely known as coming in a green bottle as shown

in numerous Korean films and TV series, and makgeolli (milky
rice wine) comprise a small sample of the wide diversity of Korean
alcohol. In the past, Koreans loved dance and music and impressed
the world with their cuisine. They also made alcohol in creative ways
with ingredients depending on the weather and region.

“Sool-ution I: Soothing the soul” of the series covers traditional

Korean liquor and “Sool-ution II: Fusion of traditional and hip” is on
the combination of traditional and contemporary liquor cultures in
Korea. The last section, “Sool-ution III: Loved by Koreans and the
world,” provides insights into Korean booze not only from Koreans
but people from other countries captivated by such drinks.

Korea.net 03
 01. 02. 03.
Sool-ution: Sool-ution: Sool-ution:
Soothing the soul Fusion of Loved by Koreans
traditional and hip and the world

Table
Munbaeju:
traditional wild pear liquor
with pleasant scent

Leegangju: Soju:

of
liquor for the liquor that offers
gourmet-conscious ‘bittersweet’

Gamhongno: Craft beer: Pairing

liquor with centuries defying foreign stereotype Korean food
of storied legacy of inferior quality with booze

Contents
Makgeolli: Premium traditional Traditional booze wins over
milky rice wine flowing liquor uses new methods, seven Honorary Reporters
with Korean sentiment regional ingredients at tasting session

Jeju Omegi Malgeunsul: The today and From boilermakers

liquor containing mother’s tomorrow of to luxury drinks,
scent and sorrow Korean alcoholic 4 experts discuss
beverages Korean booze culture

Traditional
Korean booze A warm and
shines via 5 tastes, familiar feeling:
beautiful scents drinking makgeolli
in Korea

My sool
obsession

Exhaustive guide
for those curious
about Korean
alcoholic beverages

04 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 05

Sool-ution_#1

Soothing
the soul Munbaeju: Leegangju: Gamhongno:
traditional wild pear liquor liquor for the liquor with centuries
with pleasant scent gourmet-conscious of storied legacy

Makgeolli: Jeju Omegi Malgeunsul: Traditional

milky rice wine flowing liquor containing mother’s Korean booze
with Korean sentiment scent and sorrow shines via 5 tastes,
beautiful scents

06 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 07

Sool-ution_#1

Munbaeju
traditional wild pear liquor
with pleasant scent

Written By Min Yea-Ji

Photos By Kim Sunjoo

Video By Lee Jun Young

Sool-ution_#1

Entering the brewery Moonbaesool in the town of Tongjin-eup in

Gimpo, Gyeonggi-do Province, Korea.net staff saw a fire pot, wooden
deck and ground where the cereal grass types non-glutinous millet and
waxy sorghum can be sown.

Across from that was a tidy brewery covering 1,652 square m in a

modern building, and next to the dry ground were three wild pear
trees, which are symbolic of jangdokdae (traditional earthen pots)
and the fragrance of munbaeju (wild pear liquor).

Right after greeting the staff, Moonbaesool CEO Lee Seung Yong said
he had to include non-glutinous millet as an ingredient and swiftly
led them to the brewery. As soon as they entered, the distinct smell
of alcohol brewing piqued their noses.

Making munbaeju first requires brewing mitsool, the primary mash,

with non-glutinous millet and adding sorghum to make deotsool,
a combination of grain, yeast and water that is added to mitsool.

An alcoholic beverage is divided into yiyangju (yi meaning “two”)

samyangju (sam “three”) and sayangju (sa “four”), referring to how
many times deotsool is added to mitsool. The more deotsool is added,
the higher the alcohol by volume (ABV) and deeper the aroma.
Munbaeju is classified as samyangju.

The yellow non-glutinous millet is used to make mitsool, or the primary mash, of
munbaeju (wild pear liquor), and sorghum is used to make deotsool, a malt that
combines grain, yeast and water and is added to mitsool. Designated a National
Intangible Cultural Heritage, munbaeju boasts a pear-like scent though made from
mixed grains.

Korea.net 11
 I don’t want to say
ours is the best.
I just want to say our
alcohol is also quite good,
so please have faith
and try it.
Sool-ution_#1 For a lighter spread, he recommended drinking it while eating ginger
sugar flakes, saying an unbeatable combination is the piquant and
sweet taste of the cake with the bitterness and wild pear fragrance
of munbaeju.
Munbaeju got its name from its distinct pear-like taste and fragrance
(munbae means “wild pear”). The only additives are non-glutinous On the merits of traditional Korean alcohol, he said, “Our alcohol
millet, sorghum and nuruk (fermentation starter), but the drink is good,” adding, “Whiskey, vodka and wine are all great alcoholic
exudes an elegant and fragrant pear scent. Because of its fruit scent, beverages, but traditional Korean liquor does not pale in comparison,
the beverage is considered a banghyangju, which literally means so please try it.”
“alcoholic drink with a pleasant scent.”
“I don’t want to say ours is the best. I just want to say our alcohol is
Rice is the main staple in Korea, so many types of traditional booze also quite good, so please have faith and try it.”
use it as their main ingredient. Yet such drinks hardly have non-
glutinous millet and sorghum, two grains that are abundantly produced
in Pyeongyang, North Korea, where munbaeju was mostly made.

Lee said, “The main ingredients (non-glutinous millet and sorghum)

must be of good quality for the drink to taste good,” adding, “We are
analyzing and managing ingredient quality with the National Institute
This shows munbaeju (wild pear liquor)
of Crop Science.” being made by distilling alcohol through
a sojutgori (distiller).
The taste and quality of the liquor can be enhanced only if the base
industry flourishes. The CEO said he is learning to make munbaeju
from his father, Lee Gi-choon, an expert in the field who is passing
down a National Intangible Cultural Property.

CEO Lee extracted munbaeju from sojutgori (distiller) in the tradi-

tional way, and asked Korea.net staff to try some of this “very pre-
cious alcohol.”

Because of its high ABV, he poured it into small cups. A sniff was all
it took to feel the pear aroma. The ABV was 40% like whiskey but the
liquor went down smoothly and left no lingering aftertaste.

Munbaeju was served at banquets hosted by all three inter-Korean

summits in 2000, 2007 and 2018. As a distilled soju (rice alcoholic
beverage) with a high ABV, it can be served like a cocktail or on the
rocks.

On how to drink munbaeju, the CEO suggested that for those

reluctant to drink alcohol with a high ABV, mix (plain) tonic water
and munbaeju in a 3:1 ratio and add juice or extract with a strong
fragrance such as grapefruit, herb or yuja (honey citron). As culinary
complements, he suggested raw fish, lamb meat or beef tenderloin.

14 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Sool-ution_#1

Leegangju
liquor for the
gourmet-conscious

Written By Min Yea-Ji

Photos By Kim Sunjoo

Video By Lee Jun Young

Sool-ution_#1

Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do Province, since ancient times has been renowned

as a city of nobility and gourmet cuisine.

As the capital of the Later Baekje Kingdom (900-36) and the birthplace
of the royal family of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the city was
also the first in Korea to gain designation as a UNESCO City of
Gastronomy. Nowadays, Jeonju is packed with visitors seeking high
quality food.

A place with a highly developed culinary culture must have liquor.

Korea has a culture of homebrewing liquor, but Jeonju has many
conditions that make it easy to produce liquor at home. The city was
among the three most populous during the Joseon era based on the
number of households, along with the capital Hanyang (now Seoul)
and Pyeongyang.

Jeonju had its region’s largest granary and the residences of many
nobles and wealthy families, who made liquor for serving guests
and holding jesa and charye (ancestral memorial rituals). The
liquor was hailed as high end and led to the coinage of the phrase
myeonggamyeongju, or “A renowned household has good liquor.”

Leegangju is the leading homemade liquor of Jeonju. The drink’s

name is derived from its ingredients -- Jeonju pear and ginger from
the town of Bongdong-eup in Wanju-gun County. Tumeric, cinnamon
and honey are also added.

Tumeric, uncommon at the time, was a valuable ingredient cultivated

in Jeonju and used in the liquor presented as a gift to the king, who
also received Jeonju pears and ginger from Bongdong-eup.

Leegangju was named one of Korea’s

top five liquors in “Dongguk Saesigi”
and “Gyeongdo Japji,” books on Joseon
Dynasty customs.

Korea.net 19
Sool-ution_#1 The drink was made by daughters-in-law of the Cho clan of Hanyang.
The Japanese colonial government later banned homebrewing during
its occupation of the Korean Peninsula (1910-45). After national
liberation in 1945, the Korean government enacted a law on grain
management prohibiting the use of rice as an ingredient in alcoholic
drinks.

So leegangju was secretly made for family events as it required ingre-

dients such as pear and ginger added to soju (distilled rice alcoholic
beverage), which is made with rice. Cho worked at a soju company
for 25 years after college. At age 50, he opened his leegangju
business to popularize a liquor that had nearly gone extinct.

The main ingredients of leegangju are pear, ginger, tumeric and cinnamon.

Leegangju master brewer Cho Jung Hyung shows off his drink at his distillery in Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do Province.

Historian and poet Choi Nam-seon (1890-1957) in his book “Joseon

Sang-sik Mundap” (unofficial translation: Questions and Answers on
Joseon Common Knowledge) named leegangju one of the top three
liquors of Joseon along with gamhongno and juknyeokgo.

Those who tried leegangju are known to have said the liquor goes well
with a sinseon, a legendary Taoist hermit who left the secular world to
live harmoniously with nature, is immortal and lives without pain
or illness.

Ahead of the 1988 Seoul Summer Olympics, the government began

searching for manufacturers of leading Korean liquors. Three figures
specializing in leegangju, munbaeju and Andong soju were named
Local Intangible Cultural Heritage, one of whom was leegangju
brewer Cho Jung Hyung. Now 82, he is the lone surviving
member of the three.

Leegangju is the homemade liquor of Cho. His great-great-great

grandfather held a post in the Joseon government and later moved
to Jeonju to serve as an official. Because he served many guests,
he created a variety of alcoholic drinks, with leegangju being the
most popular.

20 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

 As more people
abroad gradually seek
traditional Korean liquor,
I will work harder
in the hope that traditional
Korean liquor becomes
globally famous.
Sool-ution_#1

Back when the traditional liquor trade was reduced to smuggling, Cho In June 2022, leegangju won the gold medal at the Tasting Awards
was the manager of a soju factory by day and experimented at a lab at of the International Spirit Challenge (ISC), which annually selects
night to create leegangju. He eventually set standards for production the world’s top liquors such as whiskey. One of the world’s top three
of the drink. competitions for liquor, the ISC marked its 27th edition that year.

Making leegangju requires adding pear, ginger, tumeric and cinnamon Cho has direct outlets in the U.K. and the Netherlands and is getting
to soju that has alcohol by volume (ABV) of 35%. The ingredients more orders from the U.S., Canada and Singapore thanks to the global
are left to sit and ferment. After blending and fermenting the distilled boom in Hallyu.
liquor with the ingredients, adjusting the ABV and conducting a
second aging, the drink is complete. With none of them especially “Isn’t Korean culture beloved worldwide? People around the world
standing out, the ingredients form a harmony to create an excellent have really grown more interested in Korean cuisine. In Korean
pungent taste for leegangju. cuisine, liquor is No. 1. In the past, production facilities for traditional
liquor were inadequate (due to its painful history), tasted rough or had
“If the ratio of the ingredients is off even a little, it’s easy for lee- inconsistent qualities. But now, the facilities are better and thus the
gangju to turn into either ginger or tumeric liquor,” Cho said. “The taste’s standard has risen,” he said.
ingredients have to cover each other.”
“As more people abroad gradually seek traditional Korean liquor, I
“Because tumeric smells like a medicinal herb, strong scents from will work harder in the hope that traditional Korean liquor becomes
ginger and such cover that. The ingredients complement one another,” globally famous.”
he added. “Adding honey at the very end creates an excellent taste.”

On what foods go well with leegangju, Cho said, “Try it with

hongeomuchim (marinated ray). The drink’s strong taste goes well
with marinated ray, which is also spicy and pungent. A simple but
good option is pairing leegangju with beef jerky.

24 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 25

Sool-ution_#1

Gamhongno
liquor with centuries
of storied legacy

Written By Min Yea-Ji

Photos By Kim Sunjoo

Video By Lee Jun Young

Gamhongno, which means “bright dew

with a sweet taste,” was called one of
the top three alcoholic beverages of the
Joseon Dynasty in the book “Joseon Sangsik
Mundap” (Questions and Answers on
Joseon Common Knowledge) by scholar
Choi Nam-seon.
Sool-ution_#1 An alcoholic drink’s ceramic container resembles a Hanbok dress and
contains liquor that is like a sweet dew and emits a bright red color.

This drink is also in mentioned in the folktale “Byeoljubujeon” (The

Hare’s Liver). The turtle mentions the liquor to lure the rabbit to go
to the palace, as the Dragon King of the Sea needs to eat the rabbit’s
liver to cure his disease.

In the famous love story “Chunhyangjeon” (The Tale of Chunhyang),

the heroine brings out the drink for her lover Mongryong when asking
him to stay instead of leaving for Hanyang, the capital of the Joseon
Dynasty. Hwang Jini, a well-known entertainer of the 16th century,
compared the spirit of Seo Hwadam, the man she was enamored with,
to the liquor as well.

Gamhongno has been known throughout the ages in Korea, having

appeared in novels and literary works from the Joseon era (1392-1910)
and proverbs. It is mentioned in the stories of pansori (traditional The main ingredients of gamhongno are rice, non-glutinous millet, longan arillus, cinnamon,
lyrical opera) “Byeoljubujeon” and “Chunhyangjeon.” dried tangerine peels, dried clove buds, ginger, licorice roots and lithospermi radix.

In the books “Gyeongdo Japji” (Magazine of the Capital) by scholar

Yu Deuk-gong (1748-1807) and “Joseon Sangsik Mundap” (Questions
and Answers on Joseon Common Knowledge) by scholar Choi Nam-
seon (1890-1957), gamhongno is named one of the three main
alcoholic drinks of the Joseon Dynasty.

The saying “Gamhongno exists even in a pottery made of dirt” means

something that looks unappealing on the outside could be good and
beautiful on the inside. Today the drink is made in a brewery in Paju,
Gyeonggi-do Province. Master brewer Lee Ki Sook works to preserve
the drink and its heritage, things that were nearly lost over the years.
In addition to the smell of the ripening alcohol, the scent of medicine
was interspersed throughout the brewery.

Gamhongno is made by mixing rice and non-glutinous millet in a 7:3

ratio and steaming it. After that, nuruk (fermentation starter) and water
are added and after 15 days of fermentation, the primary mash mitsool
is produced. After distilling it twice to enrich the taste and fragrance,
the seven types of medicinal ingredients -- longan arillus, dried
tangerine peels, dried clove buds, ginger, cinnamon, licorice roots
and lithospermi radix -- are added.

Korea.net 29
Sool-ution_#1

After letting it sit for about two months, the next step is to remove the “Drinking alcohol can make the intestines cold and cause illness.
medicinal ingredients and ferment the alcohol for 1 1/2 to two years, But gamhongno has the opposite effect of warming the intestines
after which gamhongno is complete. The medicinal plant bangpung thanks to its medicinal ingredients and has long been used as
(siler divaricata) was originally an ingredient for the drink but can no medicine,” Lee Ki Sook said. “Court physicians made it and called it
longer be used in the production of alcoholic beverages as bangpung naeguk (royal court) gamhongno.”
is now legally classified as medicine.
“On days when I’m physically tired, I mix gamhongno and warm
Lee and her husband Lee Min Hyung, who heads the couple’s brewery water in a 1:2 ratio and sip it little by little and slowly, as if drinking
company, let Korea.net staff sample longan arillus, which they tea.”
described as medicine used to produce the sweet taste of gamhongno.
Having a light sweet taste, longan arillus is a fig that warms the Gamhongno is also used as a cocktail base. In the inaugural cocktail
intestines. Dried tangerine peels are rich in vitamins. competition for Korean food experts on May 28, 2022, the drink won
both the grand and first prizes.
Dried clove buds boost energy and cinnamon is aromatic. Licorice
root, a medicinal herb considered more nutritious than wild ginseng, Gamhongno affogato, made by adding a few drops of gamhongno
emits a red color. Ginger also enhances energy and lithospermi radix on vanilla ice cream, is delicious thanks to the smell of hazelnut
blends all these ingredients well. and chocolate from the liquor. Lee Ki Sook recommended yakgwa
(traditional confectionery made with honey and wheat) or dark
Pouring gamhongno in a cup made the soft cinnamon fragrance hover chocolate as the best foods to eat with the drink.
around the nose. A sip resulted in a sweet taste that highlighted the
flavor of the medicinal ingredients. Though a strong liquor at 40%
alcohol by volume, gamhongno has a clean taste and pleasant scent.

30 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 31

 “Like a sweet dew and
Sool-ution_#1

emits a bright red color”

Gamhongno was registered in 2014 in Ark of Taste, an international catalog

of endangered culinary heritage published by the Slow Food movement
of Italy, a group that records and preserves foods at risk of being lost. The
publication begins with what foods should be in the ark of preservation if
humanity is in danger of extinction.

When Korea in the 1950s enacted a law on grain management that

banned the use of rice in the production of alcoholic drinks, many
traditional drinks became extinct, and gamhongno was in danger
being lost.

Fast forward 30 years, when government policy shifted toward

promoting traditional drinks ahead of the 1988 Seoul Summer
Olympics, Lee Ki Sook’s father Lee Gyeong-chan was recognized
as an intangible cultural asset. He passed down how to make
gamhongno to his son and daughter.

Lee Ki Sook’s older brother died in 2000, leaving her as the sole heir
to the drink’s tradition and legacy. “I learned how to endure hardship
when as a child, I recalled my father taking naps by the pot to protect
gamhongno while secretly making it,” she said.

To Korea.net readers, her message was, “Gamhongno has a herbal

fragrance that people abroad should be used to and is also a medicinal
liquor that warms the body,” adding, “Please enjoy gamhongno and
read the stories behind it.”

Master brewer Lee Ki Sook explains

how to make gamhongno.

Korea.net 33
 Gamhongno has
a herbal fragrance that
people abroad should be
used to and is also a
medicinal liquor that
warms the body.
Sool-ution_#1

Makgeolli
milky rice wine flowing with
Korean sentiment

Written By Min Yea-Ji

Photos By Kim Sunjoo

Video By Lee Jun Young

Among drinks classified as takju (cloudy

alcohol), makgeolli (milky rice wine) has the
lowest alcohol by volume.
Sool-ution_#1 Because of the array of nuruk molds, the brand’s
makgeolli offers a variety of flavors and tastes.

Among makgeolli makers that use traditional nuruk,

Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli was the first to
gain recognition as folk liquor and the country’s

Makgeolli only maker designated a “food master.” Among

makgeolli distilleries with distribution networks
nationwide, the company is the only one to use

contains the traditional nuruk.

When Japan ruled the Korean Peninsula from 1910-

sentiments of 45, makgeolli makers used ipguk, or nuruk modified

in a Japanese style, instead of the traditional type.

Koreans.
Ipguk can be mass produced and cuts the time
needed to make alcoholic beverages, but also has
fewer microorganisms than nuruk. So the taste and
aroma of alcoholic beverages are more simplified.

Sanseong Nuruk is made in the traditional way of

stomping with feet. “The nuruk becomes glutinous
if you stomp on it a lot and produces more nuruk
mold and starch from the wheat,” Yoo said. “Our
ancestors’ wisdom is inside nuruk.”

The CEO explained why the outer layer of nuruk

The nuruk (fermentation starter) room of Geum- is thick while the middle is thin. A thick outer
jeongsanseong Makgeolli, a manufacturer of the layer indicates that it has long held moisture,
milky rice wine makgeolli, is halfway up Geum- which allows mold to grow evenly inside.
jeongsanseong Fortress in Busan. Hundreds of
nuruk were seen on the shelves after Korea.net
staff entered the room.

Room temperature is maintained around the clock

by a briquet fire in the room covering 10 square m
at 48-50 degrees Celsius. The nuruk there is shaped
like pizza dough with a diameter of about 30 cm.
A closer look shows molds of varying colors
growing on it.

Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli CEO Yoo Cheong-

gil said, “These are called hwangguk (yellow nuruk
mold), baekguk (white nuruk mold) and heukguk
(black nuruk mold),” adding, “The characteristic of This is the room where Geum-
jeongsanseong Makgeolli’s nuruk
Sanseong Nuruk (brand name) is that it contains all is produced, with hundreds of the
three types.” fermentation starter shown.

38 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 39

Sool-ution_#1 Makgeolli was like food to satisfy hunger because Makgeolli has also shown strong growth on both
of its production methods. In the past, people the domestic and international markets. A report
filtered cheongju from gokju (grain alcohol), which from the Korea Agro-Fisheries and Food Trade
was made with nuruk, water and grains. Water Corp., aka AT, said the liquor market declined
After fermentation, nuruk is dried in sunlight for was added to the remaining grains and sieved. The 1.6% in 2020 in value but that for makgeolli surged
sterilization. After being completely dried, it is damp remains are what make the drinks feel full. 52.1%. The value of traditional alcohol’s retail
broken into smaller pieces, mixed with steamed market also jumped from KRW 300 billion in 2016
rice and water, and left to ferment again for about a Modern methods of making makgeolli have seen to KRW 500 billion in 2021.
week. This is how Geumjeongsanseong Makgeolli fundamental changes. Instead of using the leftover
makes its version of the alcoholic beverage. dregs after making cheongju, a method of making Makgeolli exports have also risen steadily, reaching
a more flavorful wine has arisen. Today, brewers USD 15.7 million in 2021, up 27.7% from 2020.
Yoo sieved fermented makgeolli and gave a cup to produce “premium makgeolli,” which has the five Exports in the first quarter of 2022 rose 11% over
each Korea.net staff member. It was sweet and tasty. tastes of takju (sweet, sour, bitter, puckery and the same period to USD 4.24 million, with the main
Drawn to the sweet and sour smell of the wine, bees spicy) by using traditional nuruk and shunning markets being Japan (USD 7.19 million), the U.S.
flew around his hands as if they were flying around artificial flavors. (USD 2.9 million) and China (USD 1.53 million).
flowers.
That is why makgeolli, which was once less popular By company, makgeolli manufacturer Kooksoon-
On what makes makgeolli appealing, the CEO than beer, soju and wine, is now in vogue. dang saw annual exports surpass USD 1 million.
said, “It might feel a bit thick and rough but soft at Bae & Brewing Co. in 2021 saw a 274% jump in
the same time. It is filling and pleasant,” adding, exports from 2020, while Seoul Jangsoo expanded
“Makgeolli contains the sentiments of Koreans. its shipments to Vietnam, Australia, Cambodia, the
It tastes the best when everyone gathers, sings, U.S. and Japan to raise its export market lineup to
plays the janggu (traditional drum) and drinks 27 countries.
happily.”
An AT report on 2021 liquor trends attributed the
Traditional Korean liquor is mainly classified as growth of makgeolli exports to “the rise in global
cheongju (clear alcohol), takju (cloudy alcohol) interest in Korean culinary culture stemming from
and soju (clear distilled alcohol). Among drinks the popularity of Korean dramas and movies.”
classified as takju, makgeolli has the lowest alcohol
by volume (ABV) as well as a long history, with
production methods recorded in documents dating
back to the Three Kingdoms era (57 B.C.-A.D.
668). Among drinks classified as takju (cloudy alcohol),
makgeolli (milky rice wine) has the lowest alcohol by volume.

Makgeolli satiated the thirst and hunger of the

nation’s ancestors after they finished work. “It was
an alcoholic beverage that people poured into a
bowl and drank in the fields when they were hungry
from agricultural work,” Yoo said. The late poet
Cheon Sang-byeong (1930-93) compared makgeolli
to food.

Shown is the process

of sieving fermented
makgeolli.

40 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 41

Sool-ution_#1

Jeju Omegi
Malgeunsul
clear alcohol containing
mother’s scent and sorrow

Written By Min Yea-Ji

Photos By Min Yea-Ji

Jeju Omegi Malgeunsul is a traditional

liquor on Jeju Island that won the
top prize in the yakju and cheongju
category in the Korea Wine & Spirits
Awards in 2017 and 2021.
 Sool-ution_#1 Starting her day at 3 a.m., the most silent time of the day when
everyone is sleeping, she brews the beverage with every nerve
alert as if only she and the brewing sound exist in the world.

“I can’t brew the liquor properly when my mind is busy and people
come and go here,” she said. “When it’s quiet or cool or when I start
a new day, I must pay attention to this and do it properly.”

Brewed here are Omegi Malgeunsul, or traditional Jeju alcoholic

beverage categorized as yakju under liquor tax law, and gosorisul,
traditional soju (clear distilled alcoholic beverage) of the island. The
word omegi is Jeju dialect for millet and gosori refers to sojutgori.
Since the barren island had no soil for rice farming, residents grew
millet. Alcoholic beverages were also brewed with millet instead of
rice.

First, the residents made omegitteok, a doorknob-shaped cake made

with millet. Then they produced hardboiled millet and barley rice
to use as an ingredient for the millet liquor. Fermentation of 15-20
Jeju Island Brewery, surrounded by nature and greenery, is where alcoholic beverages are brewed days is needed for the drink to mature. When it is properly ripe, clear
under traditional methods and using just nuruk (fermentation starter), grains and nothing else. alcohol comes to the top and is removed to further mature and become
Omegi Malgeunsul.

When entering a black basalt fence exclusive to Jeju Island, a unique

atmosphere welcomes visitors with traditional Jeju one-story houses
covered by trees from the outside. The right of the gate has traditional
jars, sojutgori (distiller) and a furnace while next to the homes is a
garden with fresh greenery that creates a pleasant exclamation.

This is Jeju Island Brewery (JIB) in the island’s village of Seongeup-ri

in Pyoseon-myeon Township of Seogwipo, where four generations of
brewers have made traditional alcoholic beverages of the island.

JIB CEO Kim Hee-sook said, “We’ve been brewing traditional

alcoholic beverages of Jeju Island at the home where my mother
used to live and in ways dating back to the era of Tamnaguk (the
island’s ancient name during the Three Kingdoms era on the Korean
Peninsula).”

The exterior of the brewery is beautiful. Since it has no mass

production facility or factory, the house has retained its traditional
charm. For her devotion and contributions to preserve and pass down
gosorisul, Intangible Cultural Asset No. 11 of Jeju, Kim in 2018 was
designated a culinary master of alcoholic beverages.

44 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 45

 You will feel
Korea’s unique
spirit and cultural
heritage.
Sool-ution_#1 Jeju suffered many natural disasters such as
typhoons and its residents strongly relied on folk
religion. A saying goes that “(The island has) 500
shrines and 500 Buddhist temples.” To perform
Omegi Malgeunsul is eye-catching thanks to its jesa, mothers usually brewed the alcoholic
golden color harmonized with yellow green. The beverages needed.
characteristic of this millet fermented liquor is
good acidity level. Jeju gosorisul is also dubbed mohyangju, which
literally means “liquor of mother’s scent.” Another
With alcohol by volume of 16%, this liquor has name is samoju, which means “thinking of
received kudos for its fresh and sweet fruity flavor. mother.” Consuming gosorisul gives the drinker
In 2019, it was the alcoholic beverage served at a the impression of seeing his or her mother brewing
banquet for the Korea-Chile summit. In 2017 and the drink all night long and feeling the stories
2021, it received the top prize in the yakju and of mothers who lived diligently and joyfully in
cheongju category of the Korea Wine & Spirits this barren land despite poverty. “This traditional
Awards. alcoholic beverage has ingredients and stories
customized for a region,” Kim said.
If takju (cloudy alcohol) like makgeolli (rice wine)
was considered a rice staple that quenched the Kim Hee-sook is the CEO of Jeju Island Brewery “I hope tourists consider enjoying the island’s
thirst of laypeople who mostly worked on farms, and a culinary master of alcoholic beverages. traditional millet and barley liquor as part of their
cheongju was used in ancestral rites like jesa or tour when they visit Jeju Island,” she added. “If
charye as booze offered to ancestors. The word you experience alcohol that reflects the sorrow and
cheongju means the drink contains a clean, fresh footprints accumulated over many years, you will
and beautiful aroma that can reach one’s ancestors feel Korea’s unique spirit and cultural heritage.”
in heaven.

For this reason, people rich or poor made clear

alcoholic beverages with glutinous or newly
harvested rice for ancestral rites or traditional Cheongju, clear alcoholic beverage, yakju
holidays.
This traditional drink has a painful history because it lost its
name during Japanese colonial rule due to Japan’s policy to
If the charm of takju is gulping the drink in a wide- remove traditional Korean culture. Seishu, or Japanese-style
cheongju, means cheongju in Japanese and uses the same
mouthed cup, that of cheongju lies in sipping it
Chinese characters (清酒). To differentiate the two, Japan in
slowly from a small cup because of its clean and 1916 proclaimed a liquor tax decree and categorized only
fragrant nature. seishu as cheongju. Alcoholic beverages made through
traditional Korean methods were classified as yakju.

Traces of liquor tax law enacted by the Japanese colonial

government remain in Korea. According to the law, cheongju
is defined as an alcoholic beverage made of under 1% rice. To
make cheongju, 10% must be nuruk, or a fermentation starter.
If 10% of ipguk, or nuruk modified in a Japanese style, is used
for the liquor, the classification remains cheongju because
ipguk is not deemed as nuruk under the law. Yet traditional
Korean cheongju is classified as yakju, forcing people to
call only Japanese liquor cheongju. For example, Omegi
Malgeunsul, whose name means “clean alcoholic drink,” is
classified as yakju under the law. For this reason, voices are
The interior of urging revision of the law for Korean alcohol to regain its
Jeju Island Brewery original name cheongju.

48 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 49

Sool-ution_#1 Drinks in the cheongju or yakju (clear alcoholic drinks) category
have unique aromas and seven tastes. These were used on important
occasions such as the four ceremonies for coming-of-age, wedding,

Traditional funeral and ancestral rites. For this reason, these drinks are considered
to form the core of traditional booze.

Korean booze
Gahyangju (가향주) types are brewed with ingredients easily found
in human surroundings such as the petals of flowers in bloom at the
time like azaleas, chrysanthemum, lilies or fruit peels. These seasonal

shines via 5 tastes,

ingredients created a unique gahyangju culture reflecting the elegant
taste of Koreans by season.

beautiful scents
Yakyongyakju (약용약주) is a fermented type of alcoholic beverage
made with medicinal ingredients that produce unique flavors. This
showed how Koreans did not regard sool merely as an alcoholic
beverage based on personal preference. Domestic liquor is commonly
called soju. This type of drink can be categorized based on criteria like
By Park Rok-dam the main and complementary ingredients used, brewing method, use
Master of traditional Korean of other ingredients and number of brewing cycles.
alcoholic beverages

Traditional Korean alcoholic beverages have five tastes: sweet,

sour, bitter, astringent and spicy. Usually sporting a golden color,
such drinks also have the beautiful scents of flowers and fruit. The
development of alcoholic beverages, sool, is closely related with the
unique customs and lifestyle of the Korean people.

From ancient times, Koreans traditionally brewed alcoholic beverages

at home, usually gayangju (가양주), whose name means “homemade
booze.” Alcoholic beverages were inseparable from traditional holi-
day customs based on an agrarian lifestyle. People offered booze to
their ancestors and nature through ancestral and seasonal rites and
rain-making ceremonies. Such drinks also complemented meals
for the parents and elderly of a family and were offered to guests
and neighbors to share warmth and friendship. Sool was always at
the center of the nation’s fine customs of promoting harmony with
neighbors.

Following the proverb myeonggamyeongju (명가명주) or “A

distinguished household has good liquor,” thousands of alcoholic
Having restored over 850 types of
beverages set roots in all households for a variety of purposes and traditional sool since 1987 including
uses. Varieties of takju (cloudy alcoholic drinks) such as makgeolli seoktanju (fermented rice drink), Park
(milky rice wine) were usually brewed in laypeople’s homes for Rok-dam is dubbed Korea’s “godfather
of traditional alcoholic beverages.” He
farming or entertaining guests. Commoners especially preferred the has served as director of the Korea
drink thanks to its savory taste and high nutritional value. Studio Sool since 2006.

50 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Sool-ution_#1 Traditional Korean booze has complicated scents that cannot be clearly
defined. This is because the smells of natural fruits and flowers are
created in the fermentation process, not from rice, barley or wheat-
based nuruk used as the main ingredients or leavening agents. Such
Depending on purpose, these drinks can be also classified as sokseong- fragrances are usually mixed with two or three kinds of scents instead
juryu (quickly brewed drinks, 속성주류), or those made within 10 days of just one.
of brewing; danyangjuryu (single-brewed drinks, 단양주류) that are
brewed only once; jungyangjuryu (drinks fermented multiple times, Since rice is a leading ingredient that suits the human body, traditional
중양주류); honseongjuryu (mixed drinks, 혼성주류) made of soaking Korean sool is less harmful to health and causes a lighter hangover
ingredients in soju; and honyangjuryu (drinks mixed with wine, 혼양 than drinks made with other ingredients. In-season flowers or me-
주류) that are similar to fortified wine in which booze is mixed with dicinal ingredients can also be used to make special drinks.
wine and other distilled drinks to raise alcohol content. The biggest difference and strength lie in traditional sool’s health
benefits and its ability to evoke natural changes and seasonal
Most traditional sool in Korea consists of yiyangju (yi meaning “two”) sensations.
or twice-brewed drinks. It is made of mitsool, the primary mash, and
one or two additions of deotsool, a combination of grain, yeast and
water added to mitsool. Most of them are made with carefully washed
rice.

Grained rice is used to make rice cake or varieties such as baekseolgi

(white rice cake), gumeongtteok (rice cake with holes), injeolmi (sticky
rice cake), gaetteok (rice cake with green leaves), mulsongpyeon
(white rice cake boiled and cooled quickly from water) and beombeok Illustrated by Talewhale
(boiled rice mixture) or hard-boiled rice. Nuruk (fermentation starter) Translated by Korea.net staff writer Yoon Sojung
and water are added to the rice mixes for fermentation. Mitsool and
hardboiled rice are then added to the mixture for further fermentation.
The same rice is used but the taste, smell and alcohol by volume
of each drink can differ depending on the type of rice mixture used
ranging from juk (porridge) and tteok (rice cake) to hardboiled rice.

The taste and smell of domestic traditional booze are different from
those from the West. A drink’s aroma mostly depends on the raw
materials of the alcohol, ingredients, when it was brewed, and type
and quality of the nuruk used. Other factors include the skills of the
brewer, overall brewing environment and maturation process. Koreans
strongly tend to prefer a taste and smell created by nature, something
produced from the harmony and interactions of the main ingredients
of rice, nuruk and water.

52 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 53

Sool-ution_#2

Fusion of
traditional
and hip
Soju: Craft beer:
liquor that offers defying foreign stereotype
‘bittersweet’ of inferior quality

Premium traditional The today and

liquor uses new methods, tomorrow of
regional ingredients Korean alcoholic
beverages

54 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 55

 Sool-ution_#2

SOJU
liquor that offers The protagonist Park Saeroyi in the internationally popular K-drama
“Itaewon Class” sells a green bottle at his pojangmacha, a tent-style
‘bittersweet experience’ food kiosk on the street. That bottle contains an alcoholic beverage
that frequently appears in Korean movies and series and is dubbed
the liquor of the masses. That drink is the country’s most popular
alcoholic beverage: soju.
Written By Jung Joo-ri
Mostly coming in 360 ml bottles, this drink is loved by all gene-
Photos By Kim Sunjoo rations of Koreans as it gets people drunk fast without a heavy
hangover for the low price of KRW 2,000 per bottle. It also goes
Video By Lee Jun Young great with many foods such as samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly)
and sashimi while creating a savory combination with beer and
other sodas.

The National Tax Statistical Yearbook said domestic sales of diluted

soju in 2021 reached KRW 3.7 trillion, making it the nation’s No. 1
alcoholic drink with a market share of 42.1%. The well-known soju in
a green bottle is the diluted type containing alcohol extracted from
ingredients like sweet potatoes, molasses and tapioca. This type is
cheaper and easier for mass production than the distilled version,
with a clean taste that has no scent and with other items that
can add flavor other than alcohol extracted in the manufacturing
process. Instead, additives to ease bitterness and soften the taste
create sweetness in the final sip.

Diluted soju started to gain popularity from 1965, when the

government banned the distilled type made of grain due to food
shortages. Among soju brands like Chamisul, Chum-Churum and
Good Day, Jinro, founded in 1924, has the longest history. Known
for its familiar toad trademark, the company dominated the market
from 1975 by producing more than a million cases of the drink a
year on average, accounting for 42% of domestic soju production.

Soju is a liquor distilled after fermenting

grains or diluted with water.

Korea.net 57
Sool-ution_#2

Jinro remained the national leader until Chamisul Korea’s leading brands of diluted soju are
Jinro, Chamisul and Chum-Churum.
took over in 1998. Reflecting the rising popularity
of retro culture, the “Jinro is back” theme debuted
in 2019 and reflected a design indicative of the
1970s.

Diluted soju’s alcohol content by volume (ABV)

steadily decreased from 30% in 1965 to 23% in
1999 and 20% in 2006. In 2022, the figure was
as low as 15%. A lower ABV raises sweetness
and reduces bitterness in taste.

Fruit-flavored soju, which includes the scents

of and concentrate from fruits such as citron,
On July 4, 2022, Korea.net visited Hwayo Co.’s
grapefruit and green grape, is also gaining
plant in Icheon, Gyeonggi-do Province, and was
popularity since its debut in 2015. In the past,
immediately impressed with the scent that filled
a higher ABV was more popular, but the more
up the space. From the entrance, the smell of
recent trend is drinks with a lower rate that go
fermented and aged rice struck immediately and
well with food.
grew stronger near the ripening room. The onggi
(earthenware storage containers) were as tall as
Distilled soju has a taste and scent different from
the average person and classical music was softly
its unscented diluted cousin. Compared to the
playing in the background.
more popular diluted kind, the distilled version is
more expensive.
Park Jun Sung, general manager of the company’s
Production Department, said, “We make various
The brand Hwayo holds the highest market
attempts to make our alcohol Hwayo taste good,”
share for distilled soju. Unlike the diluted kind,
adding, “One of them is to play good music.”
the distilled edition uses only domestic rice and
clean water collected from a bedrock layer 150 m
On the manufacturing process, he said, “After
below ground level. The process of fermentation,
fermenting using pure microorganisms, we distill
distillation and aging also gives the beverage its
with a ‘decompressed distillation’ method that
rich flavor.
reduces pressure to boil at a low temperature to
remove the smell and enhance the rice’s unique
flavor through a three-month aging process for
earthenware.”

Hwayo has five liquor products --- four with varying alcohol
content by volume and aged in onggi (earthenware storage
containers) and one fermented in oak barrels.

58 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 59

Sool-ution_#2

The ABV rate varies from 17%-53%, and select whiskey products The company’s new product Won Soju Spirits, which has an ABV two
are aged in a barrel instead of earthenware. Hwayo soju can be percentage points higher than its predecessor, has been sold exclus-
consumed in highballs and cocktails through the addition of fruit ively since July 12, 2022, at the convenience store chain GS25 and
and extra drinks, with the company’s exports going to 22 countries the supermarket chain GS The Fresh. The new drink’s initial stock of
including the U.S., U.K. and France. 200,000 bottles on July 18 was sold out in just a week.

Unlike the high quality of Hwayo’s drinks, another distilled soju Jay Kim, chief communications officer at Won Spirits, said, “Won
brand has prioritized appealing to the masses: Won Soju. This Soju was initially produced for export to promote the appeal of
Won Soju, which was relea- company uses the concepts of Korean and non-Korean alcohol. traditional Korean liquor,” adding, “Its clean base makes it perfect to
sed in February 2022, sports a Distilled by fermenting the rice totomi from Wonju, Gangwon-do add to cocktails.” The company said it has received sales inquiries
sensuous logo design with the Province, this type is made by Won Spirit, a liquor-producing from about 60 countries and plans to reach consumers worldwide
Taegeuk symbol on all sides.
company led by Korean American hip-hop artist Jay Park. through onsite customized marketing. The popularity of distilled
Won Soju’s distinctive design, relatively low ABV rate of 22% soju reflects consumer demand for high-end liquor and a transition
and cheaper price of KRW 14,900 per 375 ml bottle have in drinking culture.
attracted younger drinkers.
“As consumption patterns change in reflecting higher incomes,
In February 2022, the company’s initial stock of 20,000 units at two a variety of premium liquor and alcoholic beverages are being
pop-up stores were all quickly snapped up, and since March 31 in released,” said Kim Tae Wan, principal research scientist at the Korea
the same year, the brand has sold limited quantities online. The Food Research Institute’s Traditional Food Research Group. “Soju
drink’s unavailability at offline stores has led to a shortage. demand is expanding from cheap and simple flavored diluted kinds
represented by green bottles to expensive versions with more
flavor.”

60 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 61

 Sool-ution_#2

Budnamu Brewery
Craft beer
defying foreign stereotype
of inferior quality A unique Hanok (traditional Korean building) structure has a high
ceiling through which the rafters and a roof on top of another
roof can be seen, with a cement wall showing its texture. A beer
fermenter and oak barrel are visible through the glass window.

Written By Min Yea-Ji, Yoon Hee Young This is the scene at Budnamu Brewery, a craft beer brand based
in Gangneung, Gangwon-do Province. The company took over a
Photos By Kim Sunjoo takju (cloudy alcohol) factory set up in 1926 and closed in 2014,
restructured the space and opened it in September 2015. With a
Video By Lee Jun Young
unique place where past and present, East and West, and warmth
and cold form a contrasting harmony and produce beer available
only here, the brewery is widely known through word of mouth
as a popular tourist attraction in Gangneung.

As of July 2022, the cumulative number of visitors was about

460,000, or some 65,000 per year. Budnamu’s main ingredients
are rice, sweet iris, black bamboo, buckwheat, chrysanthemum,
prickly ash, pine needles, potato, super sweet corn, persimmon and
strawberries supplied by regional farms. Budnamu CEO Lee Chang-
ho said, “We are leading the brewery with a determination to make a
regional beer full of Korean-style traits and individuality by utilizing
ingredients for traditional Korean liquor and those from our region.”
He said the keyword of his brewery is “finding ingredients.”

Korea.net 63
 Sool-ution_#2

Jeju Beer

Jeju Beer, which was founded in 2015, leads the booming domestic
market for craft beer with a 28.4% share. In May 2022, it became the
first craft beer company to be listed on the secondary stock market
KOSDAQ.

The company’s brewery in Hallim-eup Township on Jeju Island has a

beer factory on the first floor, a cultural space on the second where
visitors can try making beer and a bar on the third for drinking.

The second floor features the scent of fermenting wort permeating

the space. More than a beer plant, the facility is also a interactive
cultural space where visitors can enjoy beer. Kwon JinJu, chief
marketing officer of Jeju Beer, said, “Jeju Beer’s goal is to create
a new beer culture on the Korean market.” Visitors can visit the
brewery and see the principles of beer production in the interactive
cultural space built under the concept of a lab while directly sensing
the aroma and taste of beer ingredients.

Budnamu Brewery took over a takju “Now is the season to taste beer made of fresh hops harvested in
(cloudy alcohol) factor y that had
summer” he said on making beer in fall. The beer uses cultivated
operated from 1926 to 2014, rest-
ructured the space and opened it hops from Sacheon-myeon Township in Gangneung that were
in September 2015. Traces of brew- harvested in summer and used to make seasonal beer in fall.
ing makgeolli (milky rice wine) can be The hops give the beer a fresh taste and grassy smell.
seen through the par tially raised
roof that allows steam from steamed
rice to evaporate. Budnamu is a leading domestic manufacturer of craft beer, a
thriving sector in Korea. Craft beer is that made by small breweries,
and sujae maekju is the Korean term for craft beer, meaning “to
make a high-end product with special care.”

“Over 10 years have elapsed since a foreign journalist said Korean

beer tastes worse than the North Korean beer Taedonggang. This is
outdated,” Lee said. “The estimated 150 breweries nationwide
are developing and selling more than 2,000 kinds of beer.”

64 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Sool-ution_#2

Jeju Beer runs seven to eight tours of the brewery The Korea Craft Brewers Association said the num-
per day, accommodating 12 people in each group ber of craft beer breweries nationwide jumped
and sporting a participatory rate of 97%-98%. As about three-fold from 54 in 2014 to 163 in 2021.
of May 2022, the cumulative number of visitors Sales skyrocketed from KRW 9.3 billion in 2013 to
was about 150,000. KRW 152 billion in 2021, growing more than 15-
fold in eight years. Sales in 2023 are forecast at
Jeju Beer marketer Jeon Bean said, “Jeju Beer KRW 370 billion.
tries to contribute to the diversity of Korean beer
culture by using a variety of ingredients and CEO Lee said, “Craft beer brands are expanding
jumping into the craft beer market with unique their industrial scale through efforts and comp-
beer.” To that end, the company’s focus is ale, a etition to differentiate themselves from beers
fresh wheat beer that emphasizes taste and smell, made by corporations or imports,” adding, “Many
rather than carbonated or refreshing lager that more interesting and flavorful Korean craft beers
corporations produce. It uses ingredients such as will appear.”
cactus and peanuts from Udo, a small island near
Jeju Island, to produce a distinctly regional taste.
Kwon said, “The goal of Jeju Beer is to lead a tasty
beer culture.”

His company aims to establish drinking and

truly enjoying beer as part of culture, similar to
savoring wine and carefully pairing it with foods
that go well with it. “When we develop beer, we
think of foods that go well with it,” he added.
“We try to make Korean beer that goes well with
Korean food.”

“Greasy food from Jeju Island like raw mackerel,

steamed pork on a cutting board and meat Jeju Beer, which has the highest share of the domestic craft
noodles goes well with Jeju Wit Ale, whose side beer market, has an interactive beer center built as a cultural
ingredients are tangerine peels,” he said. “Jeju complex in Hallim-eup Township of Jeju City, Jeju Island.
Pellong Ale goes well with spicy foods such as
kimchi jeon (pancake) and golbaengi muchim
(moon snail salad). And Jeju Geomeong Ale,
which is softer and lighter than regular dark
beer, goes well with meat with a rich flavor.”

66 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Sool-ution_#2 The distillery Soolawon is based in
Yeoju, Gyeonggi-do Province.

“I want to not only maintain and inherit tradition but also make
new attempts and develop liquor that could become a tradition
a century or two from now.” Kang Jin Hee, CEO of the distillery
Premium traditional Soolawon, was speaking about gwahaju, a clear liquor mixed with

liquor uses new methods, a bit of soju that had existed only through old documents but was
revived by her business.

regional ingredients Literally meaning “liquor that does not spoil during summer,” the
drink is made by adding liquor with high alcohol by volume (ABV)
to makgeolli (milky rice wine) or yakju (clear alcoholic beverage)
Written By Min Yea-Ji Photos By Kim Sunjoo Video By Lee Jun Young
while the latter two are being fermented. Thus gwahaju does not
spoil and can endure hot weather, with a high ABV and sweet taste.

68 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 69

Sool-ution_#2 Korea.net on Sept. 14, 2022, visited Soolawon, “We increased the yeast from nuruk in mitsool
whose Mediterranean-style building was eye- (primary mash) to eliminate nuruk’s odor and
catching thanks to its red roof tiles and bricks. confirmed through a microscope the volume of
Passing the parking lot led to a building where yeast in the second deotsool (a combination of
visitors can try distilling liquor and tasting it. The grain, yeast and water added to mitsool). If there
adjacent two-floor building offered liquor making was a lot of yeast, we added less nuruk and if
on the first floor and research and development there was a little, we put a lot in and accordingly
for new types of alcoholic beverages on the controlled the amount of nuruk.”
second.
Many players in domestic liquor like Kang and
Kang was not born to a distilling family and did Kim entered the industry because of their love
ⓒ Mowall Distillery not inherit such a tradition. She was simply a for Korean booze. Their products have gained
housewife who liked drinking and learning about popularity through their experimental brewing
Korean liquor, and this led her to open a distillery methods not bound by tradition and output
in 2015 to share domestic liquor with more of new types by using ingredients made from
people. regional agricultural products.

“I was sad that our good liquor is disappearing From around 2010, private institutes began
into history, and that led me to make gwahaju. I offering systematic education on liquor pro-
thought, ‘OK, let’s revive this liquor. Let’s revive duction like Korea Studio Sool, Guardian of Ko-
this liquor from history,’ and that’s how I started rean Traditional Liquor, Susubori Academy and
the distillery,” she said. Makgeolli School.

Park Jae-beom is the head of Won Spirits, a com- Students went on to set up their own breweries
ⓒ Omynara Distillery
pany whose Won Soju brand is all the rage in the that emphasized value consumption and out-
domestic liquor market. He said he admires as his standing quality using good ingredients. These
“soju mentor” Kim Won-ho, who runs the distillery “premium distilleries of traditional liquor” have
Mowall in Wonju, Gangwon-do Province. the same goals but different ingredients and met-
hods of rice manufacturing, fermentation and
In 2020, Mowall received the President’s Award ripening.
for its soju made from the regional rice totomi,
which is 10 times more expensive than imported Thus these businesses have helped diversify
tapioca, an ingredient often used in regular soju. the domestic liquor market. Well-known brands
among traditional liquor aficionados such as
Kim worked as an engineer at a large corporation Poongjeong Sagye, Cheonbihyang, Soolawon,
for more than 20 years before opening his dis- Mowall and Mir are all made by these distilleries.
tillery in 2014 in his hometown of Wonju. “I adop-
ted the technology for fermenting uncooked rice
developed by the National Institute of Agricultural
Sciences. We also used the yeast extracted by
the Korea Food Research Institute from nuruk
(fermentation starter), and thus got a stable result
The gwahaju (clear liquor mixed with by reducing fermentation time and standardizing
a bit of soju), soju, raspberry wine and the liquor’s quality and taste,” he said.
makgeolli (milky rice wine) displayed
were made by the distillery Soolawon
in Yeoju, Gyeonggi-do Province.

Korea.net 71
Sool-ution_#2

Experts on premium traditional drinks were the first to recognize

the niche market’s value. Poongjeong Sagye (2021), Mowall In (2020)
and Mir 40 (2018) each received the President’s Award at the Korean
Sool Awards hosted by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural
Affairs and Korea Agro-Fisheries and Food Trade Corp.

Honey Moon Wine, the first domestic liquor made of honey, was ser-
ved at the banquet marking President Yoon Suk Yeol’s inauguration
in May 2022. Omyrose Kyol, the world’s first omija (schisandra be-
rry) wine, was selected as the drink for the toast at the Korea-U.S.
summit in the same month. The ripening of alcohol in an oak barrel
was unprecedented in making traditional liquor and was thus
considered new and experimental.

Boksoondoga’s hand-brewed makgeolli, which was served at the

2012 Nuclear Security Summit and used for toasting at a 2013
dinner with heads of diplomatic missions at Cheong Wa Dae, is
growingly popular and called “champagne makgeolli” by young
people. The drink is made by fermenting handmade nuruk for a long
time in traditional pottery. Due to the natural carbonic acid created
during the fermentation process, Boksoondoga’s makgeolli gives
a sense of refreshment like champagne and is thus considered to
have created the new genre “sparkling makgeolli.”

A ministry report on domestic liquor trends last year found that

the scale of the domestic liquor market declined from KRW 9.2
trillion in 2017 to KRW 8.8 trillion in 2020, but that of the market for
traditional domestic liquor jumped from KRW 40 billion to KRW 62.7
billion. The report said traditional liquor brands are competitive and
the market for premium traditional liquor has potential.

Korea Studio Sool director Park Rok-dam said, “An increasing

number of people are receiving systematic education in liquor
making, led by those in their 20s or 30s,” adding, “The traditional
liquor market will be better 10-20 years from now.”

72 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Sool-ution_#2 Korea is no exception to these changes. A report on domestic mar-
ket trends found that 59.9% of those drinking domestic booze in
2021 did so at home, up from 43.8% in 2018, while 32.9% consumed
such drinks at restaurants, down from 45.5%. This means that more

The today and

people are buying online domestic sool unavailable at convenience
stores or hypermarkets.

tomorrow of
Another major change is the rise of women on the brewing scene.
In the past, most breweries were run by men to make sool but more
women have become entrepreneurs in this field led by the growth
of female drinkers. The Korea Disease Control and Prevention

Korean alcoholic Agency said the proportion of women who drank in 2010 was
43.3% and 51.2% in 2018, while that of men declined from 77.8%
to 70.5%. The number of male drinkers is falling while that of

beverages
female drinkers is rising, prompting more women to get into the
brewing game using their knowledge of what women want to make
unique versions of domestic drinks considerably different from the
mainstays on the market. This is a highly encouraging trend.

By Ryoo Insu The global alcoholic beverage market is rapidly changing. A look at These changes have begun to change Korean views on booze. In
Director of Korean common trends shows that the first is the rise in the number of the past, sool was deemed suitable only for adults but is now the
Liquor Research Lab people drinking sool at home alone. The second is higher online country’s hippest thing for the MZ (millennials and Generation Z)
purchases of booze and the third is growth of craft products made crowd. Many new products pop up daily on social media. Those
at small breweries. who try new drinks get to try new products faster and share their
reviews and purchases on their social media, which boosts interest
The beginning of these changes depend on the culture of enjoying and drink sales to revive the overall liquor market.
such drinks, with COVID-19 accelerating such shifts. The explosive
growth in the number of people drinking at home has greatly
impacted the liquor market.

The slowdown of the dining industry due to the coronavirus

caused fewer people to drink with others and encouraged drinking
at home. As the population of home drinkers grows, more are
growing interested in “new,” “special” and “differentiated” sool over
drinks more easily available. These types of drinks are hard to find
at convenience stores or hypermarkets, and people look for them
online to find “special sool” to enjoy alone, fueling higher sales of
such drinks through cyberspace.

The growth of online sales of booze has spurred many changes. The
distribution structure of alcoholic drinks had been limited to sales
at easily accessible places but a range of sool produced nationwide
can be bought online. This shows that anyone who makes distinc-
tive drinks anywhere can sell them online. Such trends are the key
Since 2010, Ryoo Insu has led the Kor-
to solving the distribution problems of smaller breweries like lack ean Liquor Research Lab. He also jud-
of sales network. ges traditional drink competitions.

74 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 75

Sool-ution_#2 Over the last 30 years, alcoholic drink consumption per capita
has remained almost the same at 8.5 l but average income has
continued to grow. This means that income keeps rising while booze
consumption has remained largely still, spurring the growth of the
premium sool market in which drinks of high value are preferred
over popular and low-priced versions.

Tradition is the future, not the past, and does not remain the same
but develops. Korean drinks, once considered old fashioned, are
now beverages enjoyed by the younger generation. Once seen
as a means to ease the pain of hard labor, sool is now undergoing
development as a fermentation sector that uses cutting-edge
information technology. Smaller breweries have research labs
despite smaller space and concentrate on quality management.

Traditional booze used to be used only as holiday gifts but Koreans

are now promoting such products on social media and for sale.
Recently, alcoholic drinks made by famous celebrities have earned
a lot of interest as sool is getting more known by the younger
generation, which knew little about it before.

The growing number of people who drink at home has directly

boosted sales of craft products, which will encourage brewers to
Illustrated by Kang Sujung produce a wider range of products and invigorate the industry.
Translated by Korea.net staff writer Yoon Sojung Focus is needed on developing the “super premium of premium”
products rather than popular drinks. For example, “super premium
quality” makgeolli (milky rice wine) is available for KRW 190,000 per
bottle, when it used to be KRW 1,000 to KRW 2,000. The rise of home
drinking and female consumers has also fueled a wider variety of
Korean booze is made of agricultural products produced from products featuring low alcohol and water content.
regions with breweries, a win-win situation for both farmers and
breweries. Quality ingredients produced from regions are used in The future of the Korean market is not mass-produced booze but
the brewing process. Flowers or fruits are also used to make “regional small-scale output that leads to a fast-growing niche of higher-
specialty” drinks. These regional characteristics upgrade the value priced premium drinks. Drink packaging must differentiate “new”
of the drinks and create a “premium” image. Despite relatively high from “familiar” drinks as consumers are more interested in the new.
prices, these valuable drinks are getting customers, who once had Thus the key is to develop new products different from conventional
to drink cheap and more popular drinks, to open their wallets and ones and inform customers of the value of traditional sool through
expanding the premium booze market. promotional activities through social media. For example, offline
tasting events allow people to sample drinks and spread the word
Sales of sake in Japan and wine in France have suffered overall to raise the value of sool. As more Korean drinks are sold online,
declines, but premium editions of both drinks have seen revenue this requires a wider digital sales network and the adoption of sool
grow. Traditional Korean alcoholic beverages have seen stagnant subscription services. This will raise the brand value of sool and
or decreasing sales overall but those of premium takju (cloudy increase sales, which in turn will stimulate exports of sool, which
alcoholic drink), yakju (clear alcoholic beverage) and soju (distilled could win over people around the world.
rice alcoholic beverage) are surging, a phenomenon that has had
the biggest impact on drinking culture along with personal income.

76 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 77

Sool-ution_#3

Loved by
Koreans
and the
Pairing Traditional booze wins over From boilermakers
Korean food seven Honorary Reporters to luxury drinks,
with booze at tasting session 4 experts discuss
Korean booze culture

world
A warm and My sool Exhaustive guide
familiar feeling: obsession for those curious
drinking makgeolli about Korean
in Korea alcoholic beverages

78 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 79

 Sool-ution_#3

Pairing
Korean food
with booze
Written By Yoon Sojung

Contribution from Kim Yeonsue

Photos By Kim Sunjoo

Yoon Sook-ja is director of the Institute of Traditional Korean Food.

Yoon Sook-ja, director of the Institute of Traditional Korean Food in Seoul,

says Korean alcoholic drinks are tastier when paired with Korean dishes.
Dubbed an “ambassador of Korean food,” she is widely known for promo-
ting Hansik (Korean food) worldwide.

Based on her recommendations, Korea.net in a two-part series presents food

pairings that make the most popular kinds of booze in Korea -- makgeolli
(milky rice wine), soju (clear distilled or diluted alcoholic beverage), beer
and fruit wine -- more enjoyable.

The suggested foods have nutritional value and create a good harmony
with the characteristics of each beverage. Yoon said the dishes help people
enjoy the drinks and protect health at the same time in line with the Korean
proverb “The roots of medicine and food are the same.” Vegetarians or
vegans can also enjoy such foods by substituting one or two ingredients.

Korea.net 81
 Sool-ution_#3 The Donguibogam (Principles and Practice of Eastern Medicine),
the leading medical textbook of the Joseon Dynasty era, describes
nokdu as “cold, sweet and non-toxic” with the effects of detoxifying
all poison and treating skin disease. The book also said mung beans
reduce fever, quench thirst, harmonize internal organs and relax the
mind.

If nokdu is unavailable, pajeon (green onion pancake) is a good

substitute. “Pajeon is also a popular food that goes well with mak-
geolli,” Yoon said, “This was also more popular among laypeople
than nokdujeon.”

In Korea, especially on cloudy or rainy days, many people seek

pajeon and numerous stories explain this.

Makgeolli
“Some say it’s because the sound of raindrops is similar to that
of frying jeon with oil,” Yoon said. “Others say it’s because high
humidity on a rainy day more effectively spreads the fragrant

and nokdujeon
smell of jeon and stimulates the sense of smell.”

Yoon recommended nokdujeon, or pancakes made of mung bean,

pork and kimchi, to go with makgeolli, which is considered the
leading alcoholic drink of laypeople in Korea.

The traditional round pancakes are made by grinding nokdu (mung

beans) soaked in water on a millstone, adding fern bracken, pork and
kimchi, and frying it in oil. Originally from India, the mung bean is an
annual plant grown widely across Asia. In Korea, it is used to make
bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes), cheongpomuk (mung bean jelly)
and nokdujuk (mung bean porridge), and its bean sprout sukju is also
widely in Korean cuisine.

“This dish harmonizes the savory taste of nokdu with kimchi, pork,
bean sprouts and fern bracken and is rich in essential amino and
unsaturated fatty acids that helps digestion and detoxification of
waste products in the body,” Yoon said.

When nokdujeon is eaten with makgeolli, this combination neutralizes

alcoholic poisoning and protects internal organs. The savory and light
taste of the pancakes also creates harmony with the sweet and tangy
refreshing taste of the wine.

82 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

 Bokbunjaju and Beer and
Gaeseong-style Gaeseong-style
muk muchim stuffed cucumber

Bokbunjaju (raspberry wine) is a popular fruit wine The director recommended Gaeseong-style muk Oiseon (stuffed cucumber) is a great pairing food “Beer’s sparkling and tangy taste harmonizes with
in Korea characterized by its deep purple color, muchim (mung bean jelly salad) to eat with for beer as recommended by Yoon. This dish rec- the sour taste of the dish, boosting the taste of
strong aroma and sweet taste. bokbunjaju. eived global media attention in 2018, when it was both,” Yoon said. “Oiseon has a lot of moisture and
served at a luncheon for North Korean leader Kim potassium as an alkaline food.”
Korean fruit wines, which are mostly made from Mung beans are also used in Gaeseong-style muk Jong Un and then U.S. President Donald Trump in
raspberries or plums, pair well with dishes with muchim, which is named after a city in North Singapore while both leaders held a summit. She explained that the body excretes potassium
less stimulating flavor, Yoon said, adding that Korea near the inter-Korean border that was the when people drink a lot, adding, “Eating cucumber
because such wines have a strong taste, aroma and capital of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). This Oiseon is made of cucumber with cuts being filled helps discharge salt and other bodily waste, making
individuality, their taste can get buried by foods style of the jelly salad is made by finely chopping with thinly sliced beef and black forest mushrooms. the body feel lighter and replenishing potassium,
with a strong taste. cheongpomuk made with mung beans, seasoning To cook the dish, the cucumber is first put in boiling which is good for nutrition.”
with salt and sesame oil, and adding seaweed flakes water with a pinch of salt for a few seconds to
and sesame powder. create a light and clean taste. It is later stuffed with
pine nuts and slices of mushrooms, fried eggs and
Muk muchim is characterized by its clean and light thin beef pieces in its cuts.
taste and soft texture that produces delicious flavor
when combined with fragrant sesame oil and flakes. A sauce made of vinegar and sugar is poured on the
When bokbunjaju, with its rich aroma and sweet cucumber to add a sour taste. The Gaeseong-style
taste, is served with this dish, neither the wine nor oiseon Yoon made this time was characterized by
food erases the other’s taste but instead forms a its diagonal cuts.
harmony of flavor in the mouth.

Gaeseong-style muk muchim (jelly salad) is characterized by

its light and clean texture and savory taste. When served with
fruit wine, the dish creates harmony inside the palate while Director Yoon said Gaeseong-style oiseon
retaining the taste of the wine. (stuffed cucumber) goes great with beer.

84 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 85

Sool-ution_#3

Soju
Soju, the clear traditional liquor that comes in the
iconic green bottle, is widely known to soothe the
sorrows of Koreans as shown in many films and

and Gaeseong-style
TV dramas. The drink has recently received global
attention thanks to hit Korean content abroad such
as the Netflix series “Squid Game.”

dwaeji bulgogi Soju is so popular that in a Korea.net interview in

November 2021, then Costa Rican President Carlos
Alvarado Quesada expressed his fondness for it.
He said even his father asked him to buy the “green
bottles.”
“Because soju has a high alcohol by volume (ABV),
Yoon Sook-ja, director of the Institute of Traditional it goes well with foods high in protein such as beef,
Korean Food in Seoul, recommended pairing soju pork or chicken to put less burden on the stomach
with Gaeseong-style dwaeji bulgogi (marinated and help detoxification from alcoholic beverages,”
grilled pork). she added. “Gaeseong-style dwaeji bulgogi also
earned highly favorable responses from people at
“Samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly) is often consi- Korean food festivals overseas.”
dered the most popular side dish to pair with soju,
but other forms of pork also go well with the The dish uses the same pork belly as in samgyeop-
beverage,” she said. sal. The pork is made by cutting the greasy pork
belly section, marinating it with a sauce made of
fermented shrimp and chilly red pepper paste,
and grilling over a charcoal fire.

The director said the food goes well with soju or

other beverages with high ABV because it protects
the stomach and intestines when high protein food
is consumed with strong alcoholic beverages.

“In the West, many eat cheese when drinking strong

alcoholic beverages,” Yoon said. “By doing so, the
food can protect the stomach and intestines before
drinking starts.”

She said Gaeseong, her hometown and now a North

Korean city near the inter-Korean border, was
famous for pork cuisine, adding that city residents
Yoon Sook-ja, director of the Institute of Traditional Korean
loved a variety of pork dishes ranging from braised,
Food, recommends pairing dwaeji bulgogi (marinated grilled stewed and steamed to sliced, even adding moksal
pork) with soju (clear liquor). (pork neck) to samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup).

86 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 87

Sool-ution_#3

The silky and milky makgeolli (rice wine), dark The seven were selected based on their interest in

Traditional booze wins yellow yakju (clear alcoholic drink) and crystal
clear soju (liquor). All of these traditional alcoholic
booze and experience with Korean drinks

over seven Honorary drinks of Korea are poured into glasses with a
ringing sound.
Though hailing from Russia, Serbia, Vietnam,
Nigeria, Singapore, Hong Kong and the Phili-
Reporters at tasting session Seven Honorary Reporters held a glass with one
ppines, all of them had one thing in common:
love of booze. Their average drinking limit was
hand under their sleeves around the wrist accor- two bottles of soju, a volume equal to 14 shot
ding to Korean drinking etiquette. Every time they glasses. As residents of Korea, they said they like
took a sip, admiration burst out. On April 1, 2022, soju, beer and makgeolli as much as the drinks of
Written By Hong Kilju Photos By Kim Sunjoo Video By Lee Jun Young
Aisylu Akhmetzianova
they visited the Sool Gallery near Anguk Station their homelands.
in Seoul’s Jongno-gu District to try traditional
Korean liquor, which is normally difficult to access.

88 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 89

Sool-ution_#3

Neo Hui Ying from Singapore, who attended the Six traditional alcoholic beverages designated Intan-
session from Busan and left for Seoul early that gible Cultural Assets -- munbaeju (wild pear liquor),
morning, said, “After trying fresh makgeolli in Andong soju, Myeoncheon dugyeonju (liquor made
Korea, I was so fascinated that I decided to learn from azaleas), Hansan sogokju (alcoholic drink with
more about makgeolli.” a sweet taste), and the Geumjeongsanseong and
Songmyeongseop versions of makgeolli -- were
Isidora Simeunovic from Serbia, whose family runs prepared for the tasting session.
a rakija (traditional Balkan liquor) brewery, said,
“The soju and beer I’ve tried so far were all low in The selection of the samples considered pro-
alcohol content and lacked flavor,” adding, “I felt duction regions, and though they are all famous
Korean booze had much more to offer so I applied high-end brands, the drinks are hard to access
for this event.” in daily life due to lack of distribution channels.
The Honorary Reporters said they had never tried
Mung Xiu Ying from Hong Kong said, “It’s easy to five of the six drinks before, being familiar only
find kimchi classes in Korea but opportunities are with the Geumjeongsanseong drink, the leading
few to learn about the history and taste of Korean makgeolli of its kind in Busan.
alcoholic beverages.”

The Sool Gallery is an interactive center run by The session began with makgeolli with low
the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs alcohol content and moved on to cheongju and
and Korea Agro-Fisheries and Food Trade Corp. distilled liquor. On tasting Songmyeongseop
to promote the value of traditional Korean booze makgeolli, Sofia Ananina from Russia said, “This is
like takju (cloudy alcohol), yakju or cheongju (clear very different from other sweet makgeolli I’ve tried
alcoholic drink), distilled liquor and fruit wine. before.” After tasting Myeoncheon dugyeonju,
Titi Aiyanyo from Nigeria, in search of a drink for
spring, said, “I can definitely feel the fresh flowery
scent from this. I finally found the perfect booze
for spring.”

Mung said of the same drink, “Though it’s a

distilled liquor, it’s silky with a great scent like
wine.” While tasting munbaeju, the seven tried
to guess the source of the unique scent with
a solemn face. When the traditional liquor
sommelier said the source was a pear, the
participants said they had guessed it was
that and took several more sips.

90 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 91

Sool-ution_#3

Finally, after tasting the potent Andong soju, they “Unlike the mass-produced alcoholic beverages I
seemed surprised over how gently it went down see at convenience stores, the ones at the tasting
their throats, saying it was different from other session were rich in flavor probably because they
soju types that they tried. After the tasting went through traditional brewing methods,” she
session, the participants said their attitudes said. “Even the soju was traditional and special.”
toward traditional Korean liquor had changed.
Simeunovic said, “I wasn’t a fan of soju, but after Korea’s traditional liquor is made from domestic
trying a high quality one, I became one.” agricultural products and receives official desig-
nation only after the Cultural Heritage Adminis-
Neo said, “I used to think that Korean alcohol was tration approves of its traditionality after evaluating
just soju and beer, but now I realize that there’s so its history, taste, brewing technology and condition.
much variety,” adding, “While living in Korea, I’m
going to try them all.” Sool Gallery Director Nam Sun Hee said, “Traditional
liquor is one of the foods that our country’s people
Before the session, Ananina said, “The purpose of can best understand because it’s made from rice,
drinking Korean booze seems to be getting drunk which is familiar to Koreans.”
instead of savoring it,” but also changed her mind
after the session.

Nam Sun Hee is director

of the Sool Gallery.

92 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 93

Sool-ution_#3

From boilermakers
to luxury drinks,
4 experts
discuss Korean
booze culture

Written By Min Yea-Ji Photos By Kim Sunjoo Video By Lee Jun Young

From top left clockwise are Won Spirits CEO Jay Park, Korea
Studio Sool Director Park Rok-dam, Won Spirits Chief Commu-
nications Officer Kim Hee-jun and Damhwa CEO Lee Jaewook.
 Won Spirits’ hit brand Won Soju is Park As I got older, I preferred going to drinking places where
one of this year’s leading keywords I could chat in peace instead of those with loud music. I thought
on the domestic booze market. soju fits such a place. I decided to directly make soju myself and as
Why did you pick soju and its I studied it, my desire to make good soju grew. Few people think
distilled versions? that soju in green bottles is fancy or of high quality, and I wanted
to change that perception. I developed a sense of pride in distilled
soju, which is truly a “precious drink.” I’m extremely picky about
organic and healthy food or drinks. If drinking, isn’t it better to drink
something healthy?

Park and Kim What’s important is that we still enjoy and love the
diluted soju in green bottles. We also want to say these are not all
there is to Korean booze.

Soju in a green bottle is essential Kim When starting my career, I often went drinking to appease
for making boilermakers served my bosses and drank booze I didn’t like and boilermakers that didn’t
at a hoesik (after-work or social suit me. Honestly, I dislike this drinking culture.
gathering). How is drinking at
a hoesik? Park But when you attend a hoesik and drink together, you
develop friendship and grow closer. I realized that’s why we have a
hoesik.

Kim I agree. Just like pairings of alcoholic beverages and food, pai-
rings of people occur when drinking together. This pairing process
is what I like most at a hoesik.

Rapper Psy’s music video “Hangover” from 2014 offers a glimpse of

Korean drinking culture.

After giving a toast, he slightly tilts his head to the side, takes a sip
from his glass, makes a poktanju (boilermaker) of soju and beer, and
hits a sauna the next day to relieve his hangover. About eight years
after this song’s release, Korea has seen many changes in its market
and culture of consuming alcohol.

Even foreign drinkers with a harsh opinion of Korean booze give

a thumbs up to the country’s diversified culture of enjoying
drinks while socializing. Korea.net interviewed four experts in
sool (alcoholic drinks) to learn more about domestic drinking
culture: Jay Park, head of Won Spirits, a company that popularized
nonmainstream distilled soju, and assisted by his company’s chief
communications officer Kim Hee-jun; Lee Jaeook, CEO of the
nation’s first traditional sool subscription platform Damhwa; and
Park Rok-dam, director of Korea Studio Sool who has restored over
800 types of traditional sool.

96 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 97

Sool-ution_#3 Poktanju consisting a glass of Park A boilermaker is a recent trend and not from the culture our
beer with a shot of soju is an ancestors enjoyed. Such culture began due to industrialization,
integral part of Korean drinking emergence of inexpensive booze and shift of drinking venue from
culture. When did this domestic indoors to outdoors. The boilermaker practice began as people
version of a boilermaker begin? started mixing strong soju with fermented alcohol so that they
could quickly get drunk outdoors. The low cost led to excessive
and binge drinking.

How did Koreans Park The culture was drinking booze with a meal. People didn’t
originally enjoy sool? need to drink much since they were full from their meals. Above all,
drinking involved style and taste. Classical scholars recited poems as
they drank, and drinking also accompanied music or dance and led
to the creation of artistic genres such as painting and calligraphy.
There is nothing to learn from a drinking culture of chanting “Pour
and drink more!”

The social atmosphere now and Park I’m not saying go back to the Joseon Dynasty but to pro-
at the time of the Joseon Dynasty actively rebuild our drinking culture. The hope is in young people
(1392-1910) are vastly different. beginning to study our drinking culture and learning how to make
Doesn’t that make comparisons and drink sool. When I launched the studio 25 years ago, the aver-
between the two eras difficult? age age of a student was 58. We had one or two in their 30s and
40s, as rare as finding beans sprouting during a drought. Today, the
average student is in his or her 30s. Change has begun. I believe that
You opened the country's first Lee I didn’t know much about traditional booze because I went they will become leaders in society a decade or two from now and
traditional sool subscription to university in Hong Kong. I went to a traditional booze expo by consequently change our drinking culture.
platform amazingly as a young chance and learning about the diversity of our traditional sool hit
20-something man. How did me like a hammer. Traditional booze was the only type of alcoholic
you grow interested in this? beverage in Korea purchasable online. But the process was What is something the world Park It’s sad when foreign nationals hear of makgeolli (milky rice
complicated and I didn’t know what type to buy. So I decided to should know about Korean wine) and mainly think of the drink poured through a yellow kettle.
start blazing a trail. drinking culture? We drank like that for just 20 years after the Korean War (1950-53),
when the country saw the worst poverty in its history. I just want to
say our sool has been consumed in Korea in Goryeo celadon, Joseon
porcelain, ceramics and bronzeware.
How do you decide what booze Lee In the past, we provided very basic explanations like tradi-
to recommend to buyers? tional booze is good with a long history. Just as people want to take
the “selfie of a lifetime,” we help them find the “sool of a lifetime” for
a special occasion. We explain what drink goes with what occasion,
what foods go well with it and how it tastes.

What do subscribers to your Lee Users of our Sooldamhwa service make expensive purchases
traditional booze service want? through subscription. You can easily find soju and beer at conveni-
ence stores but users of our service can try new drinks every month.
I think our subscribers value food and booze far more than others. I
think our customers want to enjoy good booze even if just one glass
and want value consumption.

98 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

 Sool-ution_#3 Dear reader, I begin this tale not as a reflection or even less an in-
depth analysis by a leading expert, but as a simple recollection of
my unfiltered feelings in a journey of discovery of traditional
Korean alcohol and the joy of sharing it with friends.

I have been in Korea for just over a year. I have truly enjoyed its
scenery, vibrant lifestyle and culture. But above all, I have grown
enamored with its people and gastronomy, especially the traditional
milky rice wine makgeolli.

I discovered makgeolli on one of my many outings to the gastronomic

paradises known as open markets. Rows of unassuming kiosks that on
closer inspection are front-row seats at a “Seoul food” heaven. As I
devour the endless varieties of blood sausage, seafood pancakes, rice
and kimchi, and food that warms my soul to its core, I found myself in
need of refreshment.

One can never go wrong with the tried and true pairing of soju and
beer. That day, however, I was feeling adventurous. As I quickly
surveyed my alcoholic options, my eyes spotted a plastic bottle of
what looked to be a milky spirit. As I poured it into a wonderfully
shaped metallic pot, a familiar yet unique texture I encountered
many times back home in Nicaragua appeared. I paused for a second,
entranced by the similarity of texture it had to the Nicaraguan drink
chicha made of corn. As I slowly started savoring its richness, my
brain was hit with flashbacks of home. Dear readers, makgeolli was
exactly like chicha both in texture and taste. It was literally love at
first sip.

By Rodrigo Coronel My first taste of the wine opened the door to my endless curiosity
Nicaraguan Ambassador over Korean alcohol and all it offers. To my delight, I found out that
to Korea it has numerous varieties, of which I have tried 28 -- fruity, bubbly or
artisanal ones with and without sediment, milky, soft, and those with
high or low alcohol content. Oh, do I feel lucky.

Yet my best discovery has not been makgeolli itself but drinking it in
the company of Koreans. Their drinking culture of friendship, sharing,

A warm and fun and merriment is a mirror reflection of Nicaragua’s. Oh what a

warm and familiar feeling to share a newly found drink I love with
people whose culture makes me feel right at home.

familiar feeling:
drinking makgeolli in Korea
Korea.net 101
Sool-ution_#3
Learning the basics of brewing
I opened my first restaurant, Dandy Pink, in Seoul How does one sool remind me of pineapple jam
in 2012. It was here that a friend taught me how on toast while another of dashi simmering over a

My sool
to brew craft makgeolli. As I grew comfortable campfire, yet both are made with the same three
with my first recipe, our brewing pots were rarely ingredients: rice, water and nuruk (fermentation
dry. I started infusing makgeolli with the wild. My starter)? What is nuruk and how does it deliver

obsession
love for foraging and fermentation led to the first this unbelievable level of complexity?
Foraged Feast in 2015, a seasonal soiree complete
with our house makgeolli. I shifted my grand plan away from cooking and
invested my time solely into learning the craft of
During the Foraged Feast, we placed 20-l pots sool. I got my first certification as a sool sommelier
of house makgeolli at the ends of a long table. in 2018. Captivated, I earned my master distiller
I churned out dish after spontaneous dish from and brewer certifications over the next two years.
the kitchen. For a dinner party of 12 guests, the It was here, in our small classes, that I began to
recklessly liberal booze-to-guest ratio made for understand the magic of sool.
an amazing evening. Through each glass, each
sip, we realized that sool was among the greats Certifications are for me a starting point. The que-
of craft brewing. We felt we were on the edge of stion is how to build from there? I had an appetite
an awakening. to really understand sool. I wanted to help lift the
craft and push it into the limelight, but where? And
Over the years, my basic brews weren’t enough to how? There were no sool sommeliers, only the beg-
By Dustin Wessa I moved to Seoul in 2005 to study Korean history, and hopefully, earn satisfy my curiosity. Where did all these dynamic inning of something; no solid industry outside of
Korean liquor sommelier a degree. The adventure saw many late nights fueled by green bottle flavors come from? small-batch brewing existed at the time.
soju, Korea’s mass-produced swill. I watched the flow of suits from
one dive bar to the next. I pushed my way into late-night food stalls
and dark basements laden with cigarette smoke and cheap beer as
often as possible. The goal was to put my hand on the pulse of city
Illustrated by Jeong Han-sol A native of the U.S., Dustin Wessa came to Korea
life, steep myself in culture as it was then and find a clear snapshot
to study Korean history and culture and later
of Seoul’s urban chaos. The trip down the rabbit hole and back was grew fascinated by makgeolli, a milky rice
captivating. It was somewhere down there that I discovered my wine made with rice, nuruk (fermentation
love for sool.* starter) and water. He has lived in Korea
for 16 years and works as a
sommelier of traditional
Occasionally between the green bottles and study sessions, I found Korean liquor.
a few places selling dongdongju, an in-house craft makgeolli (milky
rice wine). Dongdong means “to float,” and the brew is so fresh that
there are grains of rice floating on the surface. It was my first sip of
craft sool. It’s on the sweet side, creamy yet fresh, boozy with a touch
of yogurt-like acidity. It was charming and the beginning of a decade-
long chase to find new sips. It took a couple of years before I took my
first few steps into the world of brewing.

*In Korean, sool is a general term meaning “alcohol” but the word is quickly coming to mean the country’s traditionally
produced craft alcohol. Simple and easy to pronounce and remember, this word is a fitting solution to introduce sool abroad.

102 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Sool-ution_#3
Discovering the perfect sip
Broadcast stations were calling. They wanted sometimes literally underground, multiple occupa-
to know what sets sool apart. They wanted to tions and rice shortages. We owe them our premium
show the craft, culture and history. They wanted sool and I raise my glass to them for guarding our
documentaries, shows and interviews. They need- perfect sips.
ed someone to introduce the perfect sip. And so
I traveled, learning under the masters, filming, It’s now been over a decade and what can I say?
documenting and sending the message. The momentum is building and curiosity about sool
has gone global. The once small classes of nerds
The masters are as diverse as the sool they now have year-long waiting lists. There are tons of
craft. To classify them with one word would be new breweries run by young brewers, sool bottle
nearly impossible. The closest word I can think shops are popping up everywhere, and the appetite
of is “survivors.” Each meeting led me to new to taste age-old tradition is mingling with the need
understanding — not merely of the techniques to brew new styles and search for your own perfect
and the science but also of the importance of sip.
focus and utter attention to detail.
It’s here and now, in Korea’s moment of wonder,
You see, premium sool isn’t pasteurized; there are that we’re looking at the opportunity to reconnect
no stabilizers, preservatives or hops to keep it pre- thousands of years of traditional brewing history
dictably consistent. The explosion of flavor and and plug it into the present. I’ve raised glasses
aroma has trickled down through generations. with cork dorks, beer nerds, cocktail lovers and
Each master’s brew has an intentional style, a master scotch distillers, all of whom have found an
necessary shape to the character. appreciation for what sool is. We’re on the cusp of
a revolution and I’m thrilled to be part of it. The
The craft and magic hinge on their techniques and nuruk. chase is on and the opportunity is now to find our
The masters’ craft has survived Korea’s prohibition, perfect sip of sool.

Stepping into the industry

A young chef launching a fine dining restaurant Though ordering directly from “nanobreweries”
asked me to develop and run the pairing program was an accounting nightmare, it was the only way
for the course menu. My ask in return was to forego to keep pushing the selection forward.
wine altogether. I wanted to focus exclusively on
sool, its unique character, to accentuate sool for Within months, 70% of the guests were ordering
the craft it is. He agreed. I had no fine dining ex- the pairing, an unheard-of number in the industry.
perience, I had never been a sommelier. I had, how- Our trailblazing experiment was quickly gaining
ever, a solid understanding of the brew science, traction. We needed more staff on the floor. We
honed and tested my palate, and was excited to needed sool sommeliers as there weren’t any. I
push the boundaries of sool’s place in the world trained the general manager and our one server in
of food and beverages. sool basics and got them on board. Our team got its
first Michelin star a year after opening, a first for
As head (read “only”) sommelier, I built the pairing sool. I needed a larger runway and bigger audience
program, chose the selection, ran the tastings and to push the dream forward. I thought it might be
curated for the guests. time to start trailblazing again.

104 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Sool-ution_#3 Traditional alcoholic beverages are taking off on the mainstream
booze market in Korea. Made from a range of agricultural products
from across the country, sool is winning popularity among customers
through its multifaceted charms. Despite being described as tradi-

Exhaustive guide
tional, such drinks are full of the new. From makgeolli (milky rice
wine), yakju (clear liquor) and distilled liquors to wine, the country
has many kinds of traditional booze.

for those
Such drinks are also made in creative ways through experimentation
with all kinds of ingredients such as rice, barley, wheat and sweet
potato, and even medicinal herbs and spices. The use of delicious

curious about
fruits made in the country like grapes, strawberries, tangerines, kiwis
and peaches have also opened a seemingly endless world of sool.
This is a Q&A summary for non-Koreans who wish to learn more
about traditional Korean drinks.

Korean alcoholic
beverages
By Lee Ji Min
Director of traditional sool
platform Daedongyeojudo

Lee Ji Min is an expert in traditional Korean alcoholic

beverages and since 2014 has run Daedongyeojudo, a
promotional platform for traditional Korean sool. She has
Illustrated by J.B. Han provided consulting to around 200 of the nation’s breweries
Translated by Korea.net staff writer Yoon Sojung and judged traditional drink contests.

106 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Sool-ution_#3

What is a traditional The dictionary defines traditional sool in Korea as an alcoholic What traditional drink Non-Koreans tend to show strong interest in new tastes and ingredi-
alcoholic beverage? drink made with traditional brewing methods. Due to its wide range, earns favorable responses ents, unique flavors or acidity that they’ve never experienced before.
however, those made by people designated national, municipal or For example, leegangju is known for its bittersweet taste made from
from people overseas?
provincial intangible cultural heritage or culinary masters in the booze pears, ginger, tumeric and cinnamon and omija (schisandra berry)
category or regional specialties all fall under the term. The important wine allows drinkers to taste omi, or the five tastes of sweet, bitter,
requirement is that these drinks are made of agricultural products sour, salty and spicy. The taste of omija wine is so unique that one
produced, fermented and brewed in Korea. cannot find it overseas. This is why Omyrose wine of the brand
Ominara has been often served at official banquets for state guests.

How many kinds of It’s hard to say how many kinds of traditional liquor are on sale. What traditional booze I would pick gamhongno because it’s the most mentioned in old
traditional liquor does The nation has an estimated 800 breweries operating that produce was the favorite of kings records and literature. The best type is found in North Korea. This
numerous kinds of makgeolli. The value of the domestic market for drink was one of the three specialties of Pyeongyang (the North’s
Korea have? or historical figures?
traditional drinks rose 56% from an estimated KRW 40 billion in capital) along with naengmyeon (cold noodles) and goldongban
2017 to KRW 62.7 billion in 2020. (known in South Korea as bibimbap, or rice mixed with vegetables,
meat and spicy red pepper paste). Gamhongno was the most popular
drink of its time among alcohol lovers and gisaeng (female entertain-
ers). Even in “Sugungga” (Song of the Underwater Palace), also
Unlike the ubiquitous green I would say their use of quality agricultural products made in Korea. known as “Byeoljubujeon” (The Hare’s Liver) and one of the five
Traditional sool is basically made from rice, water and nuruk (fer- pansori (solo lyrical opera) epics, the turtle tries to coax the rabbit
bottles of soju or beer,
mentation starter) and a variety of sub-ingredients can diversify the into going underwater by saying, “We have gamhongno at Yonggung
what are the advantages Palace (in the sea).”
taste. Add chrysanthemum to get chrysanthemum liquor, add azaleas
of traditional booze? to get dugyeonju (azalea liquor) or add pine tree shoots, lotus leaves
or ginseng to make specialty drinks. Nowadays, an array of fruits or Well-known historical figures also loved gamhongno, including
herbs is being used. Korea even has makgeolli made of shine muscat, Hwang Jini, considered the top gisaeng of the Joseon Dynasty
tangerine, quince or mugwort widely beloved by customers. (1392-1910). When she saw the renowned neo-Confucian scholar
Seo Hwadam (aka Seo Gyeongdeok), she praised his manliness by
comparing it to the drink’s red color and strong taste.

What do you consider Traditional drinks have endless charm, the biggest being an indefinite Traditional booze also in- Yihwaju was the highest quality takju (cloudy alcoholic drink) enjoyed
the biggest appeal of expansion of taste. Their flavor spectrum can vary depending on type cludes unique concoctions by aristocrats of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). The name is derived
of liquor, brewing method, main and sub-ingredients, fermentation from yihwa (pear blossom) because it was brewed with nuruk at a time
traditional sool? like yihwaju, a yogurt-type
and aging methods. The basic kinds of sool range from makgeolli, the when pear blossoms bloom. Another name for it is baekseolhyang
drink consumed with
most common liquor, yakju, soju and a distilled form of yakju to fruit- because the alcohol is colored white like snow with a good scent, and
flavored varieties made of fermented and ripened fruit. A variety of spoons. What other tradi- women especially like it. Many consider using spoons to consume
crops, fruits, medicinal herbs and flowers are also used in brewing. tional sool has a unique it unique and it goes well with bread or crackers. This is also called
As more concepts are added, they will expand the range of taste and taste or ingredients? anjeunbaengisul (sit-down drink) because it makes one drunk after
appeal even further. I feel proud of traditional sool because most of one or two spoonfuls.
its flavors are not found overseas.

108 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 109

Sool-ution_#3

How should traditional Break the prejudice of insisting on drinking traditional drinks from a What differentiates soju Soju in green bottles is introduced as the world’s bestselling cheap
sool of excellent fragrance ceramic container to enjoy their taste more. Use glasses in a variety of in a green bottle and its liquor but it’s not distilled soju, it’s diluted. To make it, cheap
forms at home. For makgeolli, enjoy it with fruit syrup as a cocktail imported crops are used in fermentation, distilling it with over 95%
and color be enjoyed? distilled versions?
and drink distilled soju with a high ball without worrying about its of its alcohol (jujeong) made from a continuous distilling process,
high alcohol volume. The side dish can be anything you want, even diluting it with water and adding sweeteners. Foreign visitors to Korea
if it’s not Korean. often say the scent of soju is similar to that of hand sanitizer and many
say they find it hard to drink it more than twice. But distilled soju
refers to liquor fermented with and distilled from crops. For example,
How do Koreans recover Koreans love curing a hangover by eating hot soup such as kongna- it used to be called hwaju (fire liquor) because it was heated with fire,
from a hangover? mulguk (bean sprout soup), bokjiri (puffer fish stew) or hwangtaeguk baekju (white liquor) due to its light and clean color, and soju as each
(pollack soup). Some even go for spicy ramyeon (instant noodles) as drop is collected like dew. Distilled soju helps remove the aftertaste
they believe that the cool and refreshing flavor of the soup helps them of greasy food and thus goes great with popular Korean foods like
discharge the alcohol consumed the day before. Many also use quick samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly), galbi (ribs) and barbecue.
hangover cures easily found at convenience stores. If one mixes two
types of alcoholic drinks, using a hangover helper is good but I
consider just as effective drinking water as often as possible when
drinking alcohol and a lot of warm tea or water the next day.

What breweries do you Many breweries are worth visiting across the country and I recom-
recommend visiting mend the top 50 breweries designated by the Ministry of Agriculture,
Food and Rural Affairs. Popular breweries among foreign drinkers are
in Korea?
Sanmeoru Farm in Paju, Gyeonggi-do Province, for wild grape wines;
Yesan Apple Winery in Yesan, Chungcheongnam-do Province, for
apple wine; and Ominara in Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do
Province, for omija wine. For breweries with a long history, try
Sinpyeong Brewery in Dangjin, Chungcheongnam-do Province,
or Yangchon Brewery in Nonsan in the same province.

Where in Korea The number of places selling traditional booze in Korea has surged
can people try a ranging from bottle shops specializing in traditional brews to wine
shops, hypermarkets and convenience stores. Many bars and rest-
wide variety of
aurants offer food and traditional sool. The Sool Gallery in Seoul’s
traditional booze? Bukchon Hanok Village (https://naver.me/5MUSLslR) offers a wide
variety of such drinks and sampling of them. For those interested in
making traditional sool, the Sool Company (www.thesoolcompany.
com) is worth visiting in the Hyehwa-dong neighborhood of the
city’s Jongno-gu District.

110 Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL Korea.net 111

Hidden Charms of Korea: SOOL

Published by
Korean Culture and Information Service 해외문화홍보원

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Park Byunggyu

Producers
Hwang Jin Young, Min Yea-Ji, Jeon Hyemin

Magazine Production
NEXT Communication

Cover Illustrator
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Publication date: February 2023

Articles and all content contained in

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Copyright ⓒ 2022 by Korean Culture and

Information Service, All rights reserved.

ISBN
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