Basic Hand Tools
Objectives
• Identify and describe use of common
hand tools
• Select the right tool for a given job
• Identify and describe use of vices and
clamps
• Identify and describe use of selected
specialty tools
• Describe safe use of tools
• Describe maintenance and storage of
tools
2
Tool Rules
Purchase quality tools
Keep tools organized
Keep tools clean
Use the right tool for the job.
Tech Tip
The time spent maintaining your tools and toolbox is time
well spent. Well organized tools will save time on each job
and help you get more work done. Unorganized or poorly
maintained tools will hurt your on –the-job performance.,
• Tool Box Organization
4
Tool Box Organization
Warning
Never open more than two toolbox
drawers at one time. If you do, the
heavy toolbox might flip over. Serious
injury can result since a toolbox can
weigh up to 1000 pounds. Close each
drawer before opening the next.
Related tools are normally kept in the
same toolbox drawer.
The low er roll-around cabinet holds
the bulky, heavy tools.
Commonly used tools are normally placed
in the upper tool chest
The small carrying (tote) tray is for
holding frequently used tools.
A toolbox is used to organize the wide variety of
tools a technician needs. (Snap-on tools)
Identify Basic Hand Tools
6
Wrenches
W renches are used to install and remove nuts and bolts.
W rench size is determined by measuring across the wrench jaws.
W renches come in both conventional (inch) and metric (m illim eter ) sizes.
The size is stamped on the side of the wrench.
Wrench Rules
Always select the right size wrench. It must fit the bolt head snugly. A loose
fitting wrench will round-off the corners of the bolt head.
Never hammer on a standard wrench to break loose a bolt. Use a longer wrench
with more leverage or a special slug w rench . A slug wrench is designed to be
used with a hammer.
When possible, pull on the wrench. Then, if the wrench slips, you are less likely
to hurt your hand. When you must push, use the palm of your hand and keep
your fingers open.
Never use a steel bar or pipe to increase the length of a wrench for leverage.
Excess force can bend or break the wrench.
Wrench Sizes
Custom ary tool sizes are given in fractions of an
inch. The measurement is the width of the jaw
opening. As shown here, these sizes are not the
same as bolt sizes.
M etric wrench sizes are given in m illim eters .
The measurement is the wide of the jaw opening.
The wrench size is not the same as the bolt size.
Wrenches
• Top quality wrenches are forged from
fine-grade tool steel, machined to close
tolerances, hardened and tempered for
long service life.
• Types include open-end, box- end,
combination box/open end, adjustable,
socket and locking grip styles.
9
A. Open-End W renches - An open-end wrench has an open jaw on both ends. Each end
is a different size and set at an angle.
B. Box -end W renches - Box-end wrenches are completely closed on both ends. They fully
surround and grip the head of the bolt or nut.
C. Com bination W renches - A combination wrench has a box-end jaw on one end and an
open end on the other. Both ends are usually the same size.
D. Line W renches - A line wrench, also called a tubing wrench or flare nut wrench, is a
box-end wrench with a small opening or split in the jaw. The opening allows the wrench
to be slipped over fuel lines, brake lines or power steering line and onto the fitting nut.
6 and 12 point ends
• See how much greater
flexibility a 12 point box
end gives the operator
• 12 point gives the
advantage of moving
the fastener in 30°
degree increments as
opposed to 60° for the
6 point
11
Offset wrench
40°
12
Box-end Wrenches
• Made to grip all sides of nut or bolt head
• Prevents slippage
• Must be slipped over the end of nut or bolt-
head
• Box end wrenches will normally have two
different sizes per wrench
• Size of wrench refers to nut or bolt head
dimensions
13
Box-end Wrenches
• Available as 6 or12 point design
• 6 point gives better grip
• 12 point gives more versatility as it is
only required to turn 300 to its next
available position while 6 point must
turn 600
• Available as ratchet design
14
15
Open-end wrenches
• do not provide as strong a grip as a box-
ended wrench
• slip on the nut or bolt head from the side
• two flat surfaces parallel to each other hold
onto parallel sides of nut or bolt-head
• tend to slip or round the corners if too much
pressure is required
• easier to use most instances
16
Double Open End
• Wrench angle may
vary from 15-80
degrees
• Wrench will have
two different sizes
listed on the handle
17
18
Combination Wrench
• box end on one end and open end on
the other
• both ends will usually be the same size
• gives the advantage of wrench that will
not slip as easily to start a nut, but one
that is easier to slide on and off the nut
once it has been loosened
19
20
Adjustable Wrench
• (crescent wrench)
• has provision for adjusting the opening
for different size nuts or bolt heads
• length of wrench will correspond with
jaw capacity
• do not use where components are tight
and will require sizeable force to break
them free
21
Adjustable Wrench
• unless jaw is tightened to nut, etc,
there is potential for slipping on
fastener, which will usually damage
fastener
• do not use on brass or soft material
22
Adjustable Wrench
• for light loads can be used in either
direction
• greatest strength is with pressure being
applied to side of wrench with fixed jaw
• adjustment mechanism should be
cleaned periodically and lightly oiled
23
24
Tubing Wrench
• half way between a box-end and
combination wrench
• designed to grab on five of the six sides
of a fitting
• especially designed for used on line
fittings
• always use for brass and copper fittings
• less chance of damage to fitting
25
26
Socket W renches
A socket is a cylinder-shaped, box-end tool for removing or installing bolts
and nuts. One end fits over the fastener. The other end has a square hole
that fits on a handle used for turning.
Different socket types. Note both standard and deep-
w ell sockets are shown.
Socket Wrench
• come in a great variety
• designed to fit around the fastener and
give force to all sides
• will fit into recesses
• have swivel attachments
• deep sockets where longer number of
threads are showing
28
Socket Drive Size
A socket’s drive size is the size of the square opening for the
handle
Socket Wrench
• different number of points available
• 4 and 8 point sockets are designed for
4 sided fasteners
• 6 and 12 point sockets are designed for
6 sided fasteners
• 4 and 6 point sockets will be stronger
because of the amount of metal
30
¼ Inch Drive
• Available in 6 or 12
point sockets
• Shallow, semi-deep
and deep sockets
available
• Maximum torque
range is approx. 20
ft lbs.
31
3/8 Drive
• Sockets come in 6
and 12 point
varieties
• Shallow, semi deep,
and deep sockets
• Maximum torque
range is approx. 60
ft lbs.
32
33
34
Socket Wrench
• two types of construction - regular and
impact
• impact sockets are designed for use with
impact wrenches
• thicker walls and heavier construction allow
them to absorb the shock of an impact gun
• impact sockets are not chrome plated as the
plating may crack and flake off
• never use regular sockets with impact tool
35
Socket Wrench
• sockets attach to a handle with a square
drive
• common drive sizes range from 1/4” to 3/4”
• drive handle are the same for both metric
and imperial
• several types of handles available
• flex handle, ratchet, speed
• many adapters available
• extensions, u-joints etc.
36
37
38
39
Universals
• Come in all sizes, ¼,
3/8, and ½”
• Impact or chrome
finish
• Allow access to
difficult to reach
fasteners
40
Sockets
• Shallow
• Semi-deep
• Deep
• 6 point
• 12 point
• Impact
• Chrome
41
Sockets
• Available in shallow,
semi-deep and deep
configurations
• Impact or chrome
finish
• 6, 8, or 12 point
types
42
Socket Handles
Socket handles fit into the square opening in the top of the socket. Several types are
shown. A ratchet is the most commonly used. A flex bare , or breaker bar , is the
most powerful and strongest socket handle. A speed handle is the fastest hand
operated socket handle.
Various socket handles. A- Ratchet B- Breaker bar or flex handle. C- Speed handle. D- T-handle E. Torque
wrench F- Flex driver.
Ex tensions
Ex tensions are used between a socket and its handle.
They allow the handle to be placed farther from the work piece, giving you room to
swing the handle and turn the fastener.
A universal joint is a swivel that lets the socket wrench reach around
obstructions.
It is used between the socket and drive handle, with or without and extension.
45
Pipe Wrench
• used for turning pipe and other round objects
• teeth on the jaw will dig into the the material
being tightened and may damage it
• do not use a pipe wrench to turn a bolt or a
nut unless the components is already
damaged
• do no use on hardened surfaces - may dull or
chip the jaw teeth
46
47
Hexagon Key Wrench
(Allen Wrench)
• Six sides - L-shaped
• fit into a hexagon hole in a Allen screw
• available as imperial or metric
• sized according to distance between
parallel sides
• available as socket style wrenches
48
Hexagon Key Wrench
(Allen Wrench)
• use the short end of the wrench on the screw
for breaking loose or final tightening
• use the long end of the wrench in the screw
to spin the tools quickly for fast removal and
install of allen screw
• Allen screws usually need to be only released
one or two turns to loosen the part they are
holding
49
50
51
Maintaining Wrenches
• Keep clean - dirty wrenches can slip
and cause damage and contamination
of the work piece
• Always use the correct size and type of
wrench for the job
• Do not use a hammer on a wrench
• Do not use a pipe or other means of
extending a wrench for greater leverage
52
Maintaining Wrenches (cont’d)
• Adjustable wrenches and pipe wrenches
should be cleaned and lightly oiled
• Do not use a wrench as a hammer
• Do not use a socket as a bushing driver
• Hexagon or Allen wrenches can be
reconditioned when the tip becomes
damaged
• Grind back to obtain a true hexagon shape
53
Maintaining Wrenches (cont’d)
• Hexagon or Allen wrenches can be
reconditioned when the tip becomes
damaged
• Grind back to obtain a true hexagon
size and shape
• Keep cool during grinding to avoid
removing temper
54
Pliers
• pliers available as many different types
and sizes
• used for holding, gripping, cutting, and
crimping
• usually forged from hardened steel and
then machined
55
Pliers
Pliers are used to grip, cut,crimp, hold, and been various parts. Different pliers are helpful for
different situations.
A. Com bination pliers , or slip joint pliers , are the most common pliers used. The slip joint
allows the jaws to be adjusted to grasp different size parts.
B. Rib Joint pliers or Channel lock pliers , or water pump pliers open extra wide for holding
very large objects.
C. Needle nose pliers are excellent for handling extremely small parts or reaching into highly
restricted areas.
D. Diagonal cutting pliers are the most commonly used cutting pliers. The jaw shape allows
cutting flush with a surface
E. Locking pliers , or vise grips , clamp onto and hold a part.
F. Snap ring pliers have sharp pointed tips for installing and removing special clips called
snap rings.
Slip-joint Pliers
• most common general purpose pliers
• adjusted to two size of jaw openings
• jaws have hardened cross teeth to help
in gripping the object
• jaws can damage soft materials
• never use pliers for turning nuts or bolts
• teeth will round off corners and damage
bolt or nut
57
58
59
Interlocking Slip-joint Pliers
• commonly referred to as water pump
pliers or channel locks
• can be opened to a number of positions
while keeping the jaws parallel with
each other
• longer handles to aid in gripping when
opened for larger objects
60
61
Needle-nose Pliers
• available in a variety of sizes
• some incorporate a wire cutter
• used to hold objects that are in tight
confines, etc.
• available as round nose pliers
• useful for bending wires into curves
62
63
64
Side Cutting Pliers
• diagonal cut head or face
• hardened steel cutting edges
• allow to cut wire etc. close to the
surface
65
66
67
Locking Pliers
• commonly called vise-grips
• useful for holding panels or sheet metal
in place
• can hold objects in place when you are
working alone and cannot reach both
inside and outside at same time
• Very common in Collision Repair
• straight, curved, needle nose, flat
68
69
70
Specialized Pliers
• many different types of pliers available
• electrical pliers (cutters, strippers and
crimpers)
• battery terminal pliers
• ignition pliers
• snap ring pliers
71
Electrical Pliers
• Cutters, strippers and crimpers
• available for different types of wire
• some are multi-function
• better quality units are individual such
as stripper or cutter only
72
73
74
75
Snap Ring Pliers
• two types - external snap rings and external
snap rings
• internal snap rings require contracting jaws
• external snap rings require expanding jaws
• some will have serrated jaw surfaces to
prevent the snap ring from slipping, while
others have tips on the end of the jaws to fit
in holes in the snap rings
76
77
78
Metal Cutting Snips
• Available in several different styles
• Aviation snips come in red, green and
yellow
• red and green typically to cut curves
• red and green cutting different
directions of curve
79
Metal Cutting Snips (cont’d)
• Using these snips the jaws are curved so that
the metal being cut off will curve up out of
the way
• the whole snip, except lower jaw will be
above the material being cut
• this will mean that you do need both red and
green depending on the direction that you
are cutting through the material
80
Metal Cutting Tools
81
Metal Cutting Tools
Aviation Shears Tin Snips
82
Maintaining Pliers
• Pliers are not made to withstand pressures
greater than normal hand pressure
• Never attempt to cut large screws or bolts
with electrical or side cutter pliers
• Never attempt to cut hardened material with
pliers
• Never put excessive side pressure on needle-
nose pliers
83
Maintaining Pliers (cont’d)
• Never use pliers for turning nuts and
bolts, as the teeth will round off the
corners and damage the nut or bolt
• Lubricate the swivel point with a light
oil
• Keep the pliers clean
84
Screwdrivers
• great variety of screwdrivers types and
sizes available
• length of screwdriver is measured form
to to where handle joins the blade
• shorter screwdrivers known as stubbies
• most screwdrivers bits available for
screw guns or as socket wrenches
85
86
Blade Screwdrivers
• blade screwdrivers are made to fit
screws with a single slot
• size of screw head and slot are the
deciding factors for the screwdriver
selection
• screwdriver blade should fit the slot
both in width and depth
87
Blade Screwdrivers
• too thin of a blade is likely to damage
the screwdriver
• too thick of a blade is likely to damage
the screw
• too wide of a blade is likely to damage
the material around the screw head
• too narrow of a blade is likely to
damage the screwdriver
88
89
90
Robertson Screwdrivers
• tips in the shape of a square with screw
having a recess for tip
• size of screwdriver must correspond to
the size of screw
• sizes 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, & 4 available
• handles are color coordinated for ease
of selection
91
92
Clutch Screwdrivers
• screwdriver head and tip must match
• not common in the automotive industry
• some U.S. built RV coaches use them
• available in 6 sizes from 3/32” to 5/16”
93
94
Torx Screwdrivers
• screw head and screwdriver tip must
match
• looks like an allen wrench will fit, but
they are not compatible
• very strong type of head
• available as socket wrenches for a more
positive drive even with impact drivers
95
96
Screwdrivers
An I m pact Driver can be used to loosed extremely
tight screws.
When struck with a hammer, the driver exerts
powerful turning and downward forces.
When selecting a screwdriver, pick one that is wide
and thick enough to com pletely fill the screw slot.
If too large or too small, damage to the screwdriver
or screw may occur.
Most screwdrivers are not designed to be
hammered on or pried with.
Maintaining Screwdrivers
• Always use the right type of screwdriver for
the screw
• Always use the right size of screwdriver head
for the screw
• Never use a screwdriver as a punch, prying
tool, scraper of chisel
• screwdrivers that are damaged or the wrong
size or type may damage the user or the
material being worked on or the screw head
98
Maintaining Screwdrivers
(cont’d)
• Screwdriver bits are available for use in
reversible drills
• Screwdriver bits are also available as
sockets, to enable you to put more
torque on a fitting
99
Drill bits
• Drill bits are available in clockwise and
counter clockwise rotation for different
applications
– boring holes, bolt extraction
• Other types may have specific
applications for cutting different
materials
– metal, plastic, wood
100
Common Body Shop Drill Bits
101
Stepped Drill Bit
102
Twist drill
10-12° lip clearance angle
margin
flute
land
flute
cutting lip
dead centre
103
Twist Drill
104
Hammers
Various types of ham m ers are used for operations that
involve strik ing a tool or part. I t is im portant to use the
right ham m er and to use it properly. The follow ing are
som e general rules governing ham m ers .
Select the right size hammer. If a large part is struck by a small
hammer, the hammer can fly backwards dangerously. If the
hammer is too large, however, it may damage the part.
Always check that the hammer head is tight on the handle. If
not, the head may fly off and cause injury or damage.
Never hit a hardened part with a steel hammer Metal chips may
fly off. Use a brass or lead hammer.
Grasp the hammer near the end of the handle and strike the
part or tool squarely.
Hammers
A ball peen ham m er is the most
common type of hammer used in
automotive work. It has a flat face for
general striking. It also has around end for
shaping metal parts, such as sheet metal
or river heads.
A sledge ham m er has a very large head.
It is usually the heaviest hammer and
produces powerful blows. A sledge
hammer is sometimes used to free frozen
parts.
Hammers
The brass or lead ham m er has a soft, heavy
head and is useful when scarring the surface
of a part must be avoided. The relatively soft
head deforms to protect the part surface from
damage.
A plastic or raw hide ham m er is light and
has a soft head. It is used where light blows
are needed to prevent part breakage or
damage to surfaces on small; and delicate
parts.
A rubber m allet has a head made of solid
rubber. It will rebound, or bounce, upon
striking and is not effective on solid metal
parts. It is recommended on sheet metal or
plastic parts, such as garnish molding and
wheel covers.
A dead blow ham m er has a plastic-coated,
metal face and is filled with small metal balls
called lead shot. The extra weight prevents a
rebound of the hammer when striking. The
Chisels and Punches
Chisels are for cutting of damaged or badly rusted nuts, bolts, and rivet
heads. There are various chisel shapes. Use common sense when selecting a
chisel shape.
Punches also come in several configurations. A center punch is frequently
used to start a hold before drilling. The indentation made by a center punch
will keep a drill bit from moving when first starting to drill.
Chisel & Punch Rules
Use the largest punch or chisel that will work. If a small punch
is used on a very large part, the punch can rebound and fly out
with tremendous force. The same is true for chisels.
Keep both ends of a chisel or punch properly ground and
shaped. A chisel’s cutting edge should be sharp and square. A
starting punch or a pin punch should also be ground flat and
square. A center punch should have a sharp point.
After prolonged hammering, the top of a chisel or punch can
become deformed and enlarged. This is called mushrooming. A
mushroomed chisel or punch is dangerous! Grind off the
mushroom and form a chamfer.
When grinding a chisel or punch, grind slowly to avoid
overheating the tool. Excessive heat will cause the tool to turn
blue, lose its temper, and become soft.
Make sure to wear eye protections when using or grinding a
chisel or punch.
Proper Chisel & Punch Top
Dressing
Chisel & Punch Designs
A. Flat Chisel
B. Cape Chisel
C. Round-nose cape chisel
D. Diamond-point chisel
E. Chisel or punch holder
F. Center punch
G. Pin punch
H. Long tapered punch
I. Starting punch
Files
Files remove burrs, nicks, and
sharp edges and perform other
smoothing operations.
They are useful when only a
small amount of material must
be removed.
A file is classified by its length,
shape, and cutting surface.
Generally, a coarse file with
large cutting edges should be
used on soft materials, such as
plastic, brass, and aluminum.
A fine file with small cutting
edges is needed to produce a
smoother surface and to curt
harder materials, like cast iron or
steel.
File Safety Rules
Never use a file without a handle securely attached. If the file’s
pointed tang is not covered by a a handle, it can puncture your
hand or wrist.
To prevent undue file wear, apply pressure only on the forw ard
strok e . Lift the file on the back stroke.
When filing, place one hand on the handle and the other on the
file tip. Hold the file firmly but do not press too hard.
Do not file too rapidly . One stroke every second is fast enough.
Count to yourself; one thousand one, one thousand two, one
thousand three, one thousand four. This will time your strokes
properly at about 50-60 strokes per minute.
If a file becomes clogged, clean it will a file card or a steel wire
brush.
Never ham m er on or pry with a file. A file is very brittle and will
break easily. Bits of the file can fly into your face and eyes.
Saws
A hacksaw is the saw most
frequently used by a
technician.
Various blade lengths can be
mounted in its adjustable
frame.
The blade teeth should point
aw ay from the handle, and
the blade should be fastened
tightly in the frame.
Select the appropriate blade for the job. As a rule of thumb, at least two
saw teeth should contact the material being cut at any given time. If not,
the teeth can catch and break.
When cutting, place one hand on the hacksaw handle and the other on the
end of the frame. Press down lightly on the forward stroke and release
pressure on the back stroke.
As with a file, use 50-60 strokes per minute. If cuts are made faster that
this, the blade will quickly over-heat, soften, and become dull.
Holding Tools
A Vise is used to hold parts during
cutting, drilling, hammering, and
pressing operations.
It is mounted on a workbench.
Avoid clamping a smooth, machined
part in the uncovered jaws of a vise.
If a machined surface is scarred, the
part may be ruined.
Vise caps or wood blocks should be
used when mounting precision parts
in a vise.
Never hammer on a vise handle to tighten or loosen the vise. Use the weight
of your body.
Keep moving the moving parts of the vise clean and oiled.
Wear safety glasses when using a vise.
Be careful not to damage parts in the jaws of the vise.
Use vise caps when a precision part is held in a vise.
Probe & Pickup Tools
P ickup and probing tools are
needed when bolts, nuts, or other
small parts are dropped and
cannot be reached by hand.
A m agnetic pickup tool is a
magnet hinged to the end of a
rod. It can usually be shortened
or lengthened and swiveled to
reach into any area.
A finger pickup tool grasps
nonmagnetic parts which will not
stick to a magnet.
A m irror probe allows you to
look around corners or behind
parts.
