Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

1- Parts of Knit Loop

Figure 1: Knitted Loop Anatomy

2- Cam Structures Used for Knit Stitches

Figure 2: knit cam, Tuck cam, Miss Cam (left to right)

These are cams which are used for making basic weft knit, tuck and miss stitches. These are
incorporated in the machine according to the knit design required to achieve in the fabric. Deep
path in the cam structure is basically path of needle butt in which needle moves and makes the
stitches accordingly.

3- Different Basic Weft Knitted Structures

There are basically four weft knitted structures which are used.

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Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

 Plain Knit
 Rib
 Interlock
 Purl

Plain Knit/Single Jersey Structure

If a weft or warp knitted fabric has one side consisting only of face stitches, and the opposite side
consisting of backstitches, then it is defined as a plain knitted fabric. It is also very frequently
referred to as a single jersey fabric (single fabric). Plain knitted fabrics are produced by using
one set of needles. As such all the stitches are meshed in one direction. These fabrics tend to roll
at their edges. They roll from their technical back towards the technical front at the top and lower
edges. The structure is extensible in both lateral and longitudinal directions, but the lateral
extension is twice that of the longitudinal extension. The yarn loop pulled in the longitudinal
direction would extend by half its length, while when pulled in the lateral direction it could
extend by the entire length. The degree of recovery from stretch depends on the fibers and the
construction of the yarn.

Figure 3: Plain Knitted Fabric

Properties
 Stretch crosswise and lengthwise
 Stretches more in the crosswise
 Tend to run or ladder if stitch breaks

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Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

 Fabric less stable and curls when cut

End Uses
 Sheets
 Sweaters
 Terry robes
 T-shirts
 Men's underwear
 Dresses
 Hosiery and pantyhose
 Fully fashion garments

Figure 4: technical face and technical back of plain knit

Rib
If on both sides of a relaxed weft knitted fabric only face stitches are visible, then it is referred to
as a rib knitted fabric. It is produced by meshing the stitches in adjacent wales in opposite
directions. This is achieved by knitting with two needle systems which are placed opposite to one
another other. As such these fabrics are also known as double jersey or double face fabrics.
These fabrics do not curl at their edges

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Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

Figure 5: Rib 1*1 (basic Rib structure)

Figure 6: Rib Derivative structure

Characteristics
 Also called as double jerseys fabric
 Its reversible fabric
 More elastic than jersey knits
 More thicker than single jersey knits
 More stretch crosswise/width than lengthwise
 Edges do not curl
 Very stable
 Running and laddering still a problem
 More expensive to produce because two needle beds are required
 Next highest machine productivity

End Uses
 Collars and cuffs
 Necklines

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Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

 Bottom edges of sweaters

Interlock
Interlock knitted structures could be considered as a combination of two rib knitted structures.
The reverse stitches of one rib knitted structure are covered by the face stitches of the second rib
knitted structure. On both sides of the fabric, therefore, only face stitches are visible

Figure 7: Interlock Diagrammatic Notations

Characteristics
 Reversible
 It does not curl
 Firmer fabric
 Less extensible as compared to other jersey fabrics
 Heavier and thicker as compare to rib
 It unrove from the course knitted the last
 Costlier fabric
 Better insulator

End Uses
 Outwear fabric
 Dress wear

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Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

 Skirt
 Blouses
 T-shirts

Figure 8: Interlock Fabric Face Back

4- Working of Weft Knitting Machine

Principle of Knitting Machine

Creel which provides yarn from the cone and it goes via tubes/pipes to the feeding portion, after
coming out from tubes yarn passes from slub catcher and goes through ceramic guide and passes
from inlet stop motion. After that it is wound n feeding wheel of MPF and then passes from
outlet stop motion sensor. Then a yarn tensioner balances the tension of yarn and allow it to go
for Feeder. Then main Knitting Element Needles takes the yarn from feeder and moves
according to the cam and provides knitted fabric.

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Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

Figure 9: Yarn passage of knitting machine

Sinker
The sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual or a
collective action operating approximately at right angles from the hook side of the needle bed,
between adjacent needles.

Parts of Sinker

Sinker is made up of a

1-Butt

2-Nib

3-Throat

4-Belly/Nose

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Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

Functions of a sinker
It may perform one or more of the following functions, dependent upon the machine’s knitting
action and consequent sinker shape and movement:

 Loop formation
 Holding-down
 Knocking-over

Knitting Action of the Latch Needle/ Loop Formation

Figure below shows the position of a latch needle as it passes through the cam system,
completing one knitting cycle or course as it moves up and in its trick or slot.

1. The rest position: The head of the needle hook is level with the top of the verge of the trick.
The loop formed at the previous feeder is in the closed hook. It is prevented from rising with the
needle rises, by holding-down sinkers that move forward between the needles to hold down the
sinker loops.

2. Latch opening: As the needle butt passes up the incline of the clearing cam, the old loop,
which is held down by the sinker, slides inside the hook and contacts the latch, turning and
opening it.

3. Clearing height: When the needle reaches the top of the cam, the old loop is cleared from the
hook and latch spoon and comes on the stem of needle.

4. Yarn feeding and latch closing: The needle starts to descend so that its latch is below the
verge, with the old loop moving under it. At this point the new yarn is fed through a hole in the
feeder guide to the descending needle hook. The old loop contacts the underside of the latch,
causing it to close on to the hook.

5. Knocking-over and loop length formation: As the head of the needle descends below the
top of the trick, the old loop slides off the needle and the new loop is drawn through it.

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Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing Lecture 13 Department of Knitting

Figure 10: loop formation cycle

Figure 11: more explained loop formation cycle

In Figure 11, position 2 of the needle shows that if needle do not gets its highest position then
loop does not goes on the stem and needle hook receives the new yarn. Due to which tuck stitch
forms. Therefore this position is referred as tuck position.