EISHA IFFAN

TS-20154

UNIVERSITY:
NEDUET
DEPARTMEN:
Textile Sciences
INTERNSHIP
PERIOD:
September,2024
AFROZE TEXTILE INDUSTRES (Pvt) Ltd.
Afroze Textile Industries (Pvt) Ltd. comprises of two fully owned vertical setups. The towel and bedding
factories cover an area of 650,000 square feet and 800,000 square feet respectively. The combined work
force total approximately 3,000 people. Both the units have top of line processing and stitching machines,
fully equipped laboratories, design and embroidery studios and currently the largest product portfolio in the
home textile industry.

TESTING AND SAMPLING DEPARTMENT: ______________

S.no Test performed Test methods
1 Count and construction ISO 7211-2
2 GSM ASTM 3776-96
3 Fiber Composition
4 Crocking test ISO 105 X-12
5 Rubbing test AATCC 08
6 Dimensional stability ISO 1833, AATCC 20A
SKEW AND BOW
7 Washing Fastness AATCC 612-A, ISO 105 C06
8 Water Hardness
9 pH AATCC 81, ISO 3071
Extraction drops
Drop method
Mechanical shaker
10 Pilling test ISO-12945-2
Martindale pilling tester ASTMD 3512
Random pilling tester 12937
Abrasion test
11 Water Fastness
12 Tear test
13 Tensile test

In laboratory, there are many testing machines which help the textile industry, manufacturers, importers,
and retailers ensure that their products meet their own quality standards and the requirements of their
destination markets. We provide detailed same-day inspection and reliable results you need to make an
informed decision for your textiles supply chain.

They offer the following physical and mechanical tests to assess the quality of your textiles:
• Performance: Abrasion or Piling
• Dimensional stability: Torque, Shrinkage, Elongation, Stretch and Recovery
• Weather Testing: Waterproof, Windproof
• Thermal And Water Vapor Resistance
• Fiber Identification
• Colorfastness Check
• Dimensional Stability and Appearance Evaluation After Laundering Cycles
• Eco Textile Testing
MENDING DEPARTMENT:
Woven fabrics often have imperfections that occurs during various fabric production processes which cause
severe profit and loss conditions for a textile manufacturer. Mending is done to inspect, mend and grade the
faults of the greige fabric Therefore, textile manufacturer must set some rules to meet the standards of
consumers. The lots which have imperfections in the acceptance limit are accepted and stored to pass on to
the next subsequent process, fabric having faults more than the acceptance limit is rejected and send back
to the customer. These defects or faults vary from minor to major.

Minor Faults: Major Faults:

These faults are the ones which are clearly
These faults are the ones which are barely visible
noticeable and cannot be mended or removed such
and can be mended easily or removed in further
as weaving faults and the lot is rejected if it has
processes such as bleaching or mercerization.
major faults in a large quantity.

Few of Major Faults are mentioned below:

• Light stains (acceptable)
• Stains (permanent)
• Slub/Knot
• Carbon Black Line, removed with a solution (Emrolex + Oxalic Acid + Water)
• Loose Thread
• Oil Stains
• Bad Selvedge (acceptable)
• Color Fly (acceptable)
• Float
• Mispick (3 threads)
• Crack (1 thread)
• Double Pick (2 threads together)
• Broken pick
• Hole
• Wrong Weft (patta)
• Reed Marks

ENGRAVING DEPARTMENT:
The easiest way to produce high-quality textile printing screens is by using state of the art laser engraving
and laser exposing technology. Aluminum and steel sheets/screens are used. CAD and CAM software are
used for easy and efficient design development. Laser is imparted on the screen according to the print/design
set on the system, the laser light blocks the rest of the screen area and forms holes on the screen according
to the pattern. These engraved sheets are used for rotary printing. The design/print screen rolls are placed
in a dull light and cool temperature so that the print is not disturbed.

PRE-TREATMENT DEPARTMENT:
SINGE DE-SIZE MACHINE (1999 MODEL)
Singeing is a critical process in textile manufacturing aimed at removing protruding fibers from the fabric
surface. This serves multiple purposes: enhancing the fabric's surface appearance, creating a smoother
surface conducive to printing and dyeing, and eliminating size material applied to warp yarns. Removing
size material is particularly important as it prevents the breaking of warp yarns due to mechanical stress.
Failure to carry out singeing can lead to disturbances in the appearance of dyed and printed fabric,
highlighting the significance of this process in ensuring the quality of the final product.

Machine Components and Functions:

• Tension Rod: The tension rod plays a vital role in maintaining fabric tension, preventing crease
formation, and ensuring smooth processing throughout the machine.
• Guide Roll: Positioned to guide the fabric seamlessly into the machine, the guide roll ensures
proper alignment and feeding, facilitating efficient processing.
• Pre and Post Brush Rollers: These rollers are instrumental in loosening and removing protruding
fibers from the fabric surface both before and after the singeing process. Their rapid movement,
coupled with a suction system, effectively eliminates fluff and ashes.
• Singeing Box: At the heart of the machine lies the singeing box, where fabric undergoes singeing—
a process involving exposure to gas burners. These burners incinerate protruding fibers, with the
utilization of blue flame preventing any undesirable yellowish shade on the fabric.
• Chemical Bath: Following singeing, the fabric immediately enters a chemical bath, essential for
removing the sizing material applied to warp yarns. This step is critical in preventing potential
issues such as yarn breakage due to mechanical stress, ensuring fabric integrity.
• Winder: Responsible for rolling the processed fabric onto a batcher, the winder facilitates
subsequent handling and treatment. Fabric is typically left on the batcher for 4 to 6 hours, likely for
further processing or conditioning.
• Cooling Drums: Fabric passes over cooling drums post-singeing to reduce its temperature. Water
circulation within these drums aids in effectively dissipating the heat absorbed during the singeing
process, contributing to fabric cooling and stability.

PROCESS OF DESIZING:
The desizing process is essential in textile wet processing, particularly before the application of various
chemicals. Sizing materials, which are added to increase the strength of warp yarns during weaving, must
be removed to ensure optimal absorption of subsequent chemicals. Desizing primarily aims to eliminate
these sizing materials from the fabric.
Failure to desized effectively can lead to sizing materials covering the warp yarns, which in turn can
adversely affect the washing and rubbing fastness of the fabrics. Therefore, desizing plays a crucial role in
ensuring the quality and durability of the final textile products.

BLEACHING:
Bleaching plays a crucial role in textile processing, particularly after scouring, as it effectively removes
remaining impurities, including natural coloring matters, to achieve desired whiteness. The process is
indispensable for producing white goods or preparing fabrics for dyeing pastel shades. Bleaching machines
typically achieve an average production rate of 2.5 units per day.

Machine Parameters:
• Speed: 125 m/min
• Caustic: 48 Be
• H2O2: 50%
• Stabilizer: KEB
• Wetting Agent: RGN
Fabric, following desizing, undergoes bleaching directly on the bleaching machine. The machine is
equipped with various components to facilitate the washing, scouring, and bleaching processes, each
serving a specific function.

Machine Components and Functions:

• Pre-Washing: Two chambers are dedicated to pre-washing, operating at temperatures ranging from
90-98°C. This stage effectively removes residual impurities from the fabric.
• Chemical Padding: A chemical padder is employed for the application of scouring and bleaching
chemicals onto the fabric surface, ensuring thorough treatment.
• Steaming: Fabric enters a steamer set at temperatures between 103-108°C for a duration of 22
minutes. Steaming aids in further cleansing and prepares the fabric for subsequent processing.
• Post-Washing: Post-washing involves four chambers: three for washing at temperatures ranging
from 70-98°C and one for neutralization. This stage ensures the complete removal of residual
chemicals and prepares the fabric for subsequent treatments.

Types of Bleaching Agents:

Bleaching agents can be categorized into three types:
Oxidizing Agents Reducing Agents Enzymatic Bleaching Agents
A newer category of bleaching
These agents effectively remove Particularly suitable for protein agents, enzymes offer an eco-
impurities such as oils and waxes fibers, reducing agents prevent friendly solution, reducing water,
from natural fibers without damage to fibers caused by energy, and chemical
causing yellowish discoloration. chlorine present in oxidizing consumption while effectively
bleaching agents. bleaching fabrics.

MERCIRIZATION:
Mercerization is a vital process in textile finishing aimed at enhancing various properties of the fabric.

The Objectives of Mercerization:

• Increasing Luster: Mercerization enhances the fabric's sheen or luster, giving it a more attractive
appearance.
• Improving Dye Affinity: Mercerized fabric exhibits improved affinity for dyes, resulting in more
vibrant and lasting colors during the dyeing process.
• Increasing Tensile Strength: The mercerization process enhances the fabric's tensile strength,
making it more durable and resistant to tearing or stretching.
• Cost Increase: It's important to note that after mercerization, the cost of the fabric typically
increases due to the added value from the improved properties.

Factors Affecting Mercerization Process:

During the mercerization process, several factors can impact its effectiveness. Some of these factors
include:
• Fabric Creases: Creases on the fabric surface can occur during mercerization, affecting the overall
finish. However, these creases can often be rectified by adjusting the position of the guider, ensuring
smooth and uniform processing.
• Black or Caustic Spots: Airlock issues in the padder can lead to the formation of black spots or
caustic spots on the fabric. These spots can detract from the fabric's appearance and quality.
Proper maintenance and operation of the padder can help prevent such issues, ensuring consistent and high-
quality mercerized fabric.
PROCESS:
The process of conditioning fabric after bleaching involves several steps to restore
its original width and ends before further treatment. Here's an overview of the
process:

Pre-Stentering: After bleaching, the fabric ends may become disturbed, and the
fabric itself may shrink by up to 5-10%. To address this, the fabric is conditioned by
passing it through a pre-stenter machine. This step helps to regain the fabric's
original width and ensures uniformity in its dimensions.

Mercerizing Machine: Once pre-stentering is completed, the fabric batch is

transferred to a mercerizing machine. This machine is equipped with a series of guide and bow rolls to
ensure smooth and controlled movement of the fabric through the process.

Main Section Dipping: In the mercerizing machine, the fabric is dipped into the main section, which
typically contains a strong alkaline solution. This solution plays a crucial role in the mercerization process,
enhancing the fabric's properties such as luster, dye affinity, and tensile strength.

Chambers: The mercerizing machine may consist of multiple chambers, the number of which varies
depending on the manufacturer and specific requirements. Each chamber serves a distinct purpose in the
mercerization process, ensuring thorough treatment of the fabric.

PRINTING DEPARTMENT:
At Afroze Textile Industry, 3 printing methods were used to print their fabrics.
• Digital Printing
• Flat Bed Printing
• Rotary Printing

DIGITAL PRINTING:
Digital printing is a modern way which is handled by computer and the
design is printed directly to the surface of the fabric. It mostly used when
there is large number of colors are involved in printing. It is a continuous
machine and can print unlimited amount of fabric at one go. It gives
quality results. There were 2 digital machines at the industry.

FABRIC PREPARATION: The fabric is pre-coated in digital printing.

RENIOSTROP DIGITAL PRINT MACHINE LARIO PRINTING MACHINE

It has 32 print heads and 600 nozzles. It has 50 printing heads.
Print head is stationary so only limited width of
The print head and the cloth move at low speeds fabric can be printed. Fabric width print depend
upon the print head length
7 basic reactive dyes of different hues were used
4 basic reactive dyes were used
here for printing
All the colors (design) are print simultaneously. It
One color according to the design is print at a time.
gives more accurate and better print on the fabric
After printing the fabric is steamed for fixation, washed and dried. After steaming the depth of shade is
reduced by 10%.
APPLICATONS:
• For bedding
• For wider width fabrics

FLAT BED PRINTING:

This is one of the conventional methods of screen printing. Flatbed machine is used for screen printing. The
screens are made up of a fiber and are coated with a chemical called 7LQ. The screens are engraved by laser
in the engraving department and a particular design is made on the screens. The chemical coating is removed
from the design area by washing. This ensures that during printing the dye/pigment can be passed through
the specific design area. For each color in the print design, a separate screen must be constructed or
engraved. Flatbed machine is the machine which has largest repeat size (length wise repeat size).in flatbed
the fabric movement is intermittent during flooding stroke, screen is lifted and fabric is moving whereas
during printing stroke screen is lowered and fabric becomes stationery.
Two types pigment can be performed:
Feed zone
Drying
(suction Printing Finishing
Chambers Exit Zone Washing
devices/ Zone (Polish)
(4)
brushes)

REACTIVE PRINTING PIGMENT PRINTING

Colors are in form of powders. Water colors.
Thickener is used. Binder is used.
Steam is used for fixation. Curing is done for fixation.
The hue is not faded. Upon washing the hue is reduced.
For cellulose fibers. Any fiber other than cellulosic fibers.
Reactive dyes are soluble in water. Pigments are water insoluble.

ROTARY PRINTING:
Rotary printing is also a type of screen printing. It is known as rotary printing because it uses a cylindrical
screen that rotates in a fixed position.

Winder
Sweeing Printing Washing
(Rotates the Tension Device (Glue is Drying
batcher to Heads (Washing off Fixation
Rollers placed on chamber
unwind the fabric surface) (10-14) the glue)
fabric)

The printing ink is pumped inside the screen. The squeegee system is also
placed inside the screen. In rotary printing machines, the length of the screen
determines how much the width of the fabric printed and thus it is width-wise
repeat size. The circumference of the screen determines length-wise repeat size. Similarly for each color,
separate cylindrical screen must be constructed for each printing head.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT:
HEAT STENTER MACHINE:
Stenter is the most expensive and important fabric drying and finishing machine. Stenter is a machine or
apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. It is also known as a ‘TENTER’. The purpose of the stenter
machine is to bringing the length and width to pre-determine dimensions and also for heat setting.
Machine Components and Parts of Stenter Machine:
• Padders.
• Weft Straightener (Mahlo)
• Burners (10)
• Heat Recovery
• Attraction Rollers
• Circulating Fans (8-10)
• Exhaust Fans (2)
• Winder (2)
• Clips
• Cooling Drums (2)
Functions of Stenter Machine:
The stenter is the only drying machine that provides adjustment and control of fabric width during drying.
• Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra Fabric, Synthetic and Blended Fabric.
• Width of the fabric is controlled.
• Applying and fixation of several finishing agents.
• Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
• Moisture of the fabric is controlled.
• GSM of the fabric is controlled.
• Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
Main parts of stenter machine:

Chemical Bowing Chain

Feed Drying Cooloing Delivery
Padding control entry
zone Zone Zone Zone
Zone Zone Zone

Working Process of Stenter Machine:

The fabric enters the machine from a batcher or a trolley and
is passed on to the solution tank through the guide rollers and
the tensioners. The solution tank contains different finishing
auxiliaries. The fabric is padded in the solution tank and then
taken out, passed through the squeezing rollers that squeeze the
fabric according to required percentage. Then, the fabric is
passed through the weft straightener. In the feeding unit, the
fabric is collected from the batcher or trolley to the Scray and
then it is passed through the padders where the finishes are
applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected. The fabric is entered into the weft straightener (Mahlo).
The function of the weft straightener is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is gripped by the clips.
These clips and pins are joined to endless chain. There are sensors that sense the fault in weft and removes
the fault. There are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters
are provided to separate dust from air. The circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and
exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers.

CALENDARING FINISHING PROCESS:

Calendaring is a process whereby fabric is compressed by passing it between two or more rollers under
controlled conditions of time, temperature and pressure in order to alter its handle, surface texture and
appearance. It is a mechanical finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed
under rollers at high temperatures and pressures.

Working mechanism of calendaring finishing:

The basic principle of calendaring is to expose the cloth to the combined effect of moisture, heat and
pressure until the fabric acquires a very smooth and light reflecting surface and gets a good luster. More
permanent finish can be obtained by treating fabric with a solution of crease recovery reagent, followed by
drying, calendaring and curing the fabric at about 150ºC. The calendars are basically an assembly of heavy
rolls that are normally mounted in vertical frames. The rolls are bearing one on the other under a high
pressure that is applied by compound levers or hydraulic or pneumatic equipment.

Objectives / Purposes of Calendaring Finishing:

The major changes to the fabric induced by the calendaring process are:
• Reduced fabric thickness,
• Increased fabric luster,
• Increased fabric cover,
• Smooth silky surface feel,
• Reduced air porosity,
• Reduced yarn slippage.

Parameters of Calendaring Finishing Process:

Some of the parameters affecting the calendaring process are as follows:
• Fabric construction
• Fiber content
• Finish applied
• Moisture content
• Temperature of the calendar bowls
• Running speed
• Differential bowl speed – degree or ratio of friction
• Pressure applied
SANFORIZING:
Sanforizing is a process that pre-shrinks’ fabrics to prevent further shrinkage after washing or drying.
Sanforizing process is based on the principle that when an elastic felt blanket is passed around a metal roller
in contact with it, its outer surface is process extended and the inner surface contracted. So, the process is
called controlled compressive shrinkage process.

Working Principle of Sanforizing Machine:

The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizing machine. It is moistened with either water or steam. A
rotating cylinder presses a rubber band against another heated rotating cylinder. The rubber band briefly
gets compressed and afterwards shrinks to its final size. The cloth to be treated is transported between
rubber band and heated cylinder and is forced to follow this brief expansion and recontraction and thus gets
shrunk. The bigger the pressure applied to the rubber band, the bigger the shrinking afterwards.

The purposes of sanforizing finishing:

• Prevent shrinkage: The primary purpose of sanforizing is to prevent shrinkage in the finished
fabric. This is achieved by stretching and stabilizing the fibers so that they do not shrink
significantly after washing.
• Improve appearance: Sanforizing can also improve the appearance of the fabric, making it
smoother and softer. The process helps to reduce pilling, which is the formation of small balls of
fiber on the surface of the fabric.
• Enhance durability: Sanforizing makes the fabric more durable by stabilizing the fibers and
reducing the likelihood of shrinkage, which can cause the fabric to become misshapen and wear
more quickly.
• Ease of care: Sanforized fabrics are easier to care for because they are less likely to shrink and lose
their shape after washing. This makes them a popular choice for clothing and home furnishings.
• Consistency: Sanforizing provides a high degree of consistency in the finished product, as the
process is carefully controlled to produce a uniform fabric with a consistent size and shape.