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Twill Weave
Twill weave is characterized by diagonal line in
the fabric which is created by the floats of the
ends or picks.
Twill Weave
Based on the
prominence of warp
or weft floats, twill
weaves are classified
as follows.
Warp faced: 2/1, 3/1,
3/ 2
Weft faced: 1/2, 1/3,
2/3
Balanced twill: 2/2, 3/
3, 2/1 / 1/2
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Twill Weave
In warp faced twill, the floats of ends predominate
over that of picks.
In contrast, the floats of picks predominate over that
of ends in weft faced twill.
In case of balanced twill, the floats of ends and picks
are equal.
Twill Weave
Twill weave has lesser interlacements than the plain
weave. Thus the crimp in yarns for twill weave will be
lower than that of plain weave.
For equivalent fabrics, 3/1 twill will give higher
tearing strength than followed by 2/1 twill and plain.
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Pointed Twill
There is no continuous line. However, the twill lines
change directions at specified intervals and thus
create pointed effect on the fabric.
Pointed Twill
The 4th end is considered as the mirror line and the
design is reversed such that the interlacement
pattern for the ends 5, 6 and 7 becomes identical
with those of ends 3, 2 and 1, respectively.
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Angle of Twill
The angle made by the twill line with the horizontal
direction (weft direction) is known as angle of twill or
twill angle
It is dependent on pick spacing, end spacing and
move number of the design.
Angle of Twill
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Satin and Sateen Weaves
Satin and sateen weaves are characterized by the
following features:
Only one binding point in each end and pick within
the repeat
No continuous twill line
Smooth appearance
Satin and Sateen Weaves
Satin weave is warp faced whereas sateen weave
weft faced.
The fabrics have very smooth and lustrous
appearance which is created by the long floats of
either ends or picks.
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Satin and Sateen Weaves
To make the effect of the warp floats more prominent,
following steps are adopted.
Use of coarser warp threads than the weft threads
Use of higher ends per inch (epi) than the (ppi)
Satin and Sateen Weaves
For the construction of sateen weave, a feasible
move number is chosen.
Using this move number, only those points are
marked on the point paper where the end is floating
over the pick.
Sateen weave (weft faced) can be converted to
satin weave (warp faced) by interchanging the
crosses with blanks and vice versa.
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Satin and Sateen Weaves
For a seven-end sateen weave, probable move
numbers are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.
Satin and Sateen Weaves
But, move number 1 and 6 (n-1, where n is the repeat
size of the weave) produce twill weaves.
Only move numbers 2, 3, 4 and 5 produce valid
sateen weaves.
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Satin and Sateen Weaves
If move number is 1 or n-1 then twill weave is produced.
If a six-end sateen weave is designed with move numbers of 2,
3 or 4, then following interlacement pattern will be produced
But, there are certain ends without any interlacement.
Therefore, 6 end regular sateen (or satin) weave is not feasible
Rules for Making Sateen Weave
1. Move number 1 and (n-1) cannot be used as twill
weaves are produced.
2. Move number and repeat size of the design
should not have any common factor.
Eg. 6 end sateen does not follow both the rules
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Some Fancy Weaves:Honeycomb
Honeycomb weave
shows prominent
diamond shapes on
the fabrics created
by the long floats of
ends.
Honeycomb weave
having a repeat size
of 8×8
Some Fancy Weaves:Honeycomb
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Some Fancy Weaves: Mock Leno
Some of the ends have
frequent interlacement
whereas the other ends
have long floats.
The fabric shows small
holes created by the
grouping of threads.
A mock leno weave having
a repeat size of 10×10
Only four healds are
needed
Some Fancy Weaves: Mock Leno
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Some Fancy Weaves: Huck-a-Back
Similarity with Mock
leno.
Top-right and bottom-
left corners are having
similar interlacement
pattern like Mock leno.
However, the remaining
two quadrants have
plain weave like
interlacement pattern.
A 10×10 Huck-a-back
design.
Some Fancy Weaves: Huck-a-Back
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