Haynes ZX600D-E - Service Manual
Haynes ZX600D-E - Service Manual
ABCDE
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including Haynes North America, Inc
photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
Editions Haynes
ISBN 1 85960 795 0 4, Rue de I'Abreuvoir
Library of Congress Control Number 01-131055 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France
Introduction
Kawasaki - The Green Meanies Page 0*4
Acknowledgements Page 0*7
About this manual Page 0*7
Safety first! Page 0*8
Identification numbers Page 0*9
Buying spare parts Page 0*9
MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Specifications Page 1*1
Recommended lubricants and fluids Page 1*2
Maintenance schedule Page 1*3
Component locations Page 1*4
Maintenance procedures Page 1*6
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine, transmission and associated systems
Engine, clutch and transmission Page 2»1
Cooling system Page 3«1
Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4»1
Ignition system Page 5«1
Chassis components
Suspension and steering Page 6*1
Brakes Page 7»1
Wheels Page 7*13
Tires Page 7»18
Final drive Page 7*18
Fairing, bodywork and frame Page 8*1
REFERENCE
Dimensions and Weights Page REF*!
Tools and Workshop Tips Page REF*2
Conversion Factors . Page REF«20
Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants Page REF«21
MOT Test Checks Page REF*22
Storage Page REF*26
Fault Finding t V , 1 Page REF*28
Fault Finding Equipment Page REF*36
Technical Terms Explained Page REF»40
The Green Meanies Sales. At the same time, the Akashi factory
which was to be Kawasaki’s main production
facility until the Kobe earthquake of 1995, was
opened. Shortly afterwards, Kawasaki took
over the ailing Meguro company, Japan’s
oldest motorcycle maker, thus instantly
obtaining a range of bigger bikes which were
by Julian Ryder marketed as Kawasaki-Meguros. The
following year, the first bike to be made and
Kawasaki Heavy Industries They bought their high-technology sold as a Kawasaki was produced, a 125 cc
experience to bear first on engines which single called the B8 and in 1963 a motocross
awasaki is a company of contradictions. were sold on to a number of manufacturers as version, the B8M appeared.
K
awasaki’s first appearance on a road-
race circuit came in 1965 with a batch of
disc-valve 125 twins. They were no
match for the opposition from Japan in the
shape of Suzuki and Yamaha or for the fading
force of the factory MZs from East Germany.
Only after the other Japanese factories had
pulled out of the class did Kawasaki win, with
British rider Dave Simmonds becoming World
125 GP Champion in 1969 on a bike that
looked astonishingly similar to the original
racer. That same year Kawasaki reorganised
once again, this time merging three
companies to form Kawasaki Heavy
Industries. One of the new organisation’s
objectives was to take motorcycie production
forward and exploit markets outside Japan.
KHI achieved that target immediately and
set out their stall for the future with the
astonishing and frightening H1. This three-
cylinder air-cooled 500 cc tw o-stroke was
arguably the first modern pure performance
bike to hit the market. It hypnotised a whole
generation of m otorcyclists w ho'd never
before encountered such a ferocious, wheelie
inducing power band or such shattering
straight-line speed allied to questionable
handling. And as for the 750 cc version ...
The first Superbike, Kawasaki’s 900 cc Z1
The triples perfectly suited the late ‘60s,
fitting in well with the student demonstrations
of 1968 and the anti-establishment ethos of
the Summer of Love. Unfortunately, the oil
crisis would put an end to the thirsty strokers
but Kawasaki had another high-performance
ace up their corporate sleeve. Or rather they
thought they did.
The 1968 Tokyo Show saw probably the
single most significant new motorcycle ever
made unveiled: the Honda CB750. At
Kawasaki it caused a major shock, for they
also had a 750 cc four, code-nam ed New
York Steak, almost ready to roll and it was a
double, rather than single, overhead cam
motor. Bravely, they took the decision to go
ahead - but with the motor taken out to 900
cc. The result was the Z1, unveiled at the
1972 Cologne Show. It was a bike straight out
of the same mould as the H1, scare stories
spread about unmanageable power, dubious
straight-line stability and frightening handling,
none of which stopped the sales graph
rocketing upwards and led to the coining of
the term ‘superbike’. While rising fuel prices
cut short development of the big two-strokes,
the Z1 went on to found a dynasty, indeed its
genes can still be detected in Kawasaki’s
latest products like the ZZ-R1100 (Ninja
ZX-11).
This is another characteristic of the way
Kawasaki operates. Models quite often have
very long lives, or gradually evolve. There is
no major difference between that first Z1 and
the air-cooled GPz range. Add water-cooling
and you have the GPZ900, which in turn
metamorphosed into the GPZ1000RX and
then the ZX-10 and the ZZ-R1100. Indeed, the One of the two-stroke engined KH and KE range - the KE100B
o*6 Introduction
custom s were dire, you sim ply got the I
impression that the team that designed them I
didn’t have their heart in the job. Only when L
the Classic range appeared in 1995 did they I
get it right.
Racing success
awasaki also have a more focused 1
Acknowledgments About this Manual shop must pass on to you to cover its labour
and overhead costs. An added benefit is the
O
ur thanks are due to Kawasaki Motors he aim of this manual is to help you get
(UK) Ltd for providing technical
information and for giving permission
to reproduce certain illustrations used in this
manual. We would also like to thank NGK
T the best value from your motorcycle. It
can do so in several ways. It can help
you decide what work must be done, even if
you choose to have it done by a dealer; it
sense of satisfaction and accom plishm ent
that you feel after doing the job yourself.
References to the left or right side of the
m otorcycle assume you are sitting on the
seat, facing forward.
Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the color provides information and procedures for
spark plug condition photos and the Avon routine maintenance and servicing; and it We take great pride in the accuracy of
Rubber Company for supplying information offers diagnostic and repair procedures to information given in this manual, but
on tire fitting. follow when trouble occurs. motorcycle manufacturers make
We hope you use the manual to tackle the alterations and design changes during the
Thanks are also due to the Kawasaki work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it production run of a particular motorcycle
Information Service for supplying color yourself may be quicker than arranging an of which they do not inform us. No liability
transparencies and to Julian Ryder for writing appointm ent to get the m otorcycle into a can be accepted by the authors or
the introduction ’The Green Meanies’. dealer and making the trips to leave it and publishers for loss, damage or injury
pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money caused by any errors in, or omissions from,
can be saved by avoiding the expense the the information given.
o»8 Safety first!
Professional mechanics are trained in safe • Always disconnect the battery earth • Always disconnect the battery ground
working procedures. However enthusiastic terminal before working on any part of the fuel (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or
you may be about getting on with the job at or electrical system, and never risk spilling electrical systems (except where noted).
hand, take the time to ensure that your safety fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. • If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover
is not put at risk. A moment’s lack of attention • It is recommended that a fire extinguisher when charging the battery from an external
can result in an accident, as can failure to of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or
observe simple precautions. kept handy in the garage or workplace at all the battery may burst.
There will always be new ways of having times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or • Take care when topping up, cleaning or
accidents, and the following is not a electrical fire with water. carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte,
comprehensive list of all dangers; it is evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive and
intended rather to make you aware of the risks Fumes should not be allowed to contact the eyes or
and to encourage a safe approach to all work • Certain fumes are highly toxic and can skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles
you carry out on your bike. quickly cause unconsciousness and even or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare
death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol vapour electrolyte yourself, always add the acid
Asbestos comes into this category, as do the vapours slowly to the water; never add the water to the
• Certain friction, insulating, sealing and from certain solvents such as trichloro- acid.
other products - such as brake pads, clutch ethylene. Any draining or pouring of such
linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. volatile fluids should be done in a well Electricity
Extreme care must be taken to avoid ventilated area. • When using an electric power tool,
inhalation of dust from such products since it • When using cleaning fluids and solvents, inspection light etc., always ensure that the
is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume read the instructions carefully. Never use appliance is correctly connected to its plug
that they do contain asbestos. materials from unmarked containers - they and that, where necessary, it is properly
may give off poisonous vapours. grounded (earthed). Do not use such
Fire • Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in appliances in damp conditions and, again,
• Remember at all times that petrol is highly an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust beware of creating a spark or applying
flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of fumes contain carbon monoxide which is excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel
naked flame around, when working on the extremely poisonous; if you need to run the vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet
vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a engine, always do so in the open air or at least national safety standards.
spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by have the rear of the vehicle outside the • A severe electric shock can result from
two metal surfaces contacting each other, by workplace. touching certain parts of the electrical system,
careless use of tools, or even by static such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when
electricity built up in your body under certain The battery the engine is running or being cranked,
conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in • Never cause a spark, or allow a naked particularly if components are damp or the
a confined space is highly explosive. Never light near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally insulation is defective. Where an electronic
use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen ignition system is used, the secondary (HT)
approved safety solvent. gas, which is highly explosive. voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.
I With the engine off, check the oil level in the window located at the
lower part of the right crankcase cover. The oil level should be
between the Maximum and Minimum level marks on the window.
2 If the level is below the Minimum mark, remove the oil filler cap
from the right crankcase cover and add enough oil of the
recommended grade and type to bring the level up to the
Maximum mark. Do not overfill.
2 Coolant level
Before you start: Bike care:
✓ The engine must be cold for the results to • Use only the specified coolant mixture. It is • Do not overfill the coolant reservoir. The
be accurate, so always perform this check important that antifreeze is used in the cooling coolant level is satisfactory if it is between the
before starting the engine for the first time system all year round, not just during the Low and Full marks on the reservoir.
each day. winter months. Don’t top-up with water • If the coolant level seems to be consistently
✓ Place the m otorcycle on the centerstand. alone, as the antifreeze will become too low, check the entire cooling system for
Make sure the motorcycle is on level ground. diluted. leaks.
1 Remove the seat to view the coolant level. The coolant reservoir is
located under the right frame rail of the seat subframe. 2 If the level is at or below the Low mark, remove the right side
cover (see Chapter 8), unscrew the reservoir filler cap and add the
recommended coolant mixture (see Chapter 1 Specifications) until
the Full level is reached.
Daily (pre-ride) checks 0.11
3 Brake fluid Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted
levels A surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover
surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing
open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
Replace the rubber diaphragm and the A sight window is provided for checking The fluid level should be between the
4 cover. Tighten the screws evenly, but do 5 the fluid level in the rear master cylinder 6 Upper and Lower marks. If it isn’t,
unscrew the cap, and add the
not overtighten them. reservoir.
recommended brake fluid until the level is at
the Upper mark.
levels A surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover
surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing
open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
Replace the rubber diaphragm and the A sight window is provided for checking The fluid level should be between the
4 cover. Tighten the screws evenly, but do
not overtighten them.
5 the fluid level in the rear master cylinder
reservoir.
6 Upper and Lower marks. If it isn’t,
unscrew the cap, and add the
recommended brake fluid until the level is at
the Upper mark.
. . . pull back the dust boot and loosen . . . pull the outer cable tight to remove all When the cable is properly adjusted, the
4 the two adjusting nuts (arrows) on the
bracket at the lower end of the cable . . .
5 slack (C), then tighten the adjusting nuts
(A) against the bracket (B). Set the
6 angle (C) between the cable (D) and the
release lever (A) should be approximately
correct freeplay at the clutch lever (see 80 to 90°, with the release lever pushed
Step 2). forwards (B).
)egrees of difficulty
y, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult Difficult, suitable for Very difficult, ^
novicewith little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY ^
experience some experience DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional
pecifications
ngine
Dark plugs
Type
D models
US m o d e ls........................................................................................... NGK C9E or ND U27ES-N
UK and Canadian m o d e ls ................................................................ NGK CR9E or ND U27ESR-N
E models (US, UK and C anadian)....................................................... ..... NGK CR9E or ND U27ESR-N
Gap (all models) .............................................................................................. 0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 inch)
igine idle speed
All except California m o d e ls .......................................................................... 1000 to 1100 rpm
California models ............................................................................................ 1250 to 1350 rpm
live clearances (COLD engine)
Intake ......................................................................................................... ..... 0.15 to 0.24 mm (0.006 to 0.009 inch)
Exhaust........................................................................................ '.............. ..... 0.22 to 0.31 mm (0.009 to 0.012 inch)
Jylinder compression pressure
Acceptable range .., .........v............................ ........................' . . . . . . . 139 to 213 psi @ 350 rpm (9.8 to 15 kg/cm 2)
Maximum difference between c y lin d e rs ................................................ ..... 18 psi (1.2 kg/cm 2)
"arburetor synchronization (vacuum difference between cylinders) . . . Less than 2.7 kPa (2 cm Hg)
Under numbering (from left side to right side of b ik e )................................ 1 -2-3-4
firing o rd e r................. ................................................................................... ..... 1-2-4-3
1.2 Servicing specifications
Miscellaneous
Brake pad minimum thickness........................................................... 1 mm (3/64-inch)
Choke cable freeplay ........................................................................ 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)
Clutch lever freeplay.......................................................................... 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)
Throttle grip freeplay ........................................................................ 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)
Drive chain
Slack............................................................................................. 35 to 40 mm (1.38 to 1.57 inch)
20-link length ............................................................................... 323 mm (12.73 inch) maximum
Battery electrolyte specific gravity..................................................... 1.260 minimum
Minimum tire tread depth
F ro n t............................................................................................. 1.0 mm (0.040 inch)
Rear
Up to 130 km/h (80 mph) ........................................................... 2 mm (0.0788 inch)
Over 130 km/h (80 m ph)............................................................. 3 mm (0.1182 inch)
Tire pressures (cold)
F ro n t............................................................................................. 36 psi (2.5 kg/cm*)
Rear............................................................................................... 41 psi (2.9 kg/cm2)
Torque specifications
Oil drain plug .............................................................................. .. . • 20 Nm (174 in-lbs)
Oil filte r ............................................................................................. 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
Coolant drain b o lt.............................................................................. 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
Spark plugs........................................................................................ 14 Nm (120 in-lbs)
Valve cover bolts .............................................................................. 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
Miscellaneous
Wheel bearings................................................................................ Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Swingarm pivot bearings .................................... .............. Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Cables and lever pivots ....................................................... Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Sidestand/centerstand pivots............................................................. Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Brake pedal/shift lever pivots........................................................... Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Throttle grip .................................................................................... Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant
Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined at the front o f this manual
covers checks and maintenance that should be carried out on a daily Every 3000 miles (5000 km) (cont.)
basis. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance
Interval fin addition to the procedures listed. The intervals listed below
□ Check/adjust the choke cable (Section 12)
are the shortest intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each 3 Change the engine oil and oil filter (Section 13)
•particular operation during the model years covered in this manual. □ Clean the air filter element (Section 14)
Your owner's manual may have different intervals for your model. O Check the steering (Section 15)
□ Check the tires and wheels (Section 16)
□ Check the battery electrolyte level (if possible)
Daily or before riding (Section 17)
C See ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of this □ Check the exhaust system for leaks (Section 18)
Manual. □ Check the tightness of all fasteners (Section 18)
Every 200 miles (300 km) Every 6000 miles (10,000 km)
All of the 'Daily (pre-ride) checks ’ plus the following
All of the 3000 miles (5000 km) maintenance tasks plus the following
0 Lubricate the drive chain (Section 1) □ Check the cleanliness of the fuel system and the
condition of the fuel and vacuum hoses (Section 19)
□ Lubricate the swingarm needle bearings and
After the initial 500 miles (800 km) suspension linkage (Section 20)
Note: This check is usually performed by a Kawasaki dealer after the □ Check the cylinder compression (Section 21)
first 500 miles from new. Thereafter, maintenance is carried out □ Check/adjust the valve clearances (Section 22)
lacccording to the following intervals of the schedule. □ Replace the spark plugs (Section 23)
I__ ___________
Component locations on right side
1 Coolant reservoir 5 Radiator cap 9 Engine/transmission oil sightglass
2 Rear brake fluid reservoir 6 Engine/transmission oil filler 10 Rear brake pedal adjuster
3 Throttle cable upper adjuster 7 Clutch cable lower adjuster 11 Rear brake light switch
4 F ro n t b ra k e flu id re s e rv o ir 8 E n g in e /tra n s m is s io n o il d ra in b o lt
Component locations
Component locations on left side
1 Steering head bearings adjuster 5 Air filter - D models 9 Engine/transmission oil filter
2 Clutch cable upper adjuster 6 Battery 10 Front fork oil drain bolt - O models
3 Air filter - E models 7 Idle speed adjuster - E models 11 Front fork seals
4 Idle speed adjuster - D models 8 Coolant drain bolt cn
1.6 Introduction
This Chapter covers in detail the checks Deciding where to start or plug into the initially and then settle into the maintenance
and procedures necessary for the tune-up routine maintenance schedule depends on schedule prescribed.
and routine maintenance of your motorcycle, several factors. If you have a m otorcycle The Sections which actually outline the
and includes the routine maintenance whose warranty has recently expired, and if it inspection and maintenance procedures are
schedule, which is designed to keep the has been maintained according to the written as step-by-step comprehensive
machine in proper running condition and warranty standards, you may want to pick-up guides to the actual performance of the work.
prevent possible problems. The remaining routine maintenance as it coincides with the They explain in detail each of the routine
Sections contain detailed procedures for next mileage or calendar interval. If you have inspections and maintenance procedures on
carrying out the items listed on the owned the machine for some time but have the check list. References to additional
maintenance schedule, as well as additional never performed any maintenance on it, then information in applicable Chapters is also
maintenance information designed to increase you may want to start at the nearest interval included and should not be overlooked.
reliability. and include some additional procedures to Before beginning any actual maintenance or
Since routine maintenance plays such an ensure that nothing important is overlooked. If repair, the machine should be cleaned
im portant role in the safe and efficient you have just had a major engine overhaul, thoroughly, especially around the oil filter
operation of your motorcycle, it is presented then you may want to start the maintenance housing, spark plugs, cylinder head covers, side
here as a comprehensive check list. For the routine from the beginning. If you have a used covers, carburetors, etc. Cleaning will help
rider who does all his own maintenance, these machine and have no knowledge of its history ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine
lists outline the procedures and checks that or maintenance record, you may desire to and will allow you to detect wear and damage
should be done on a routine basis. combine all the checks into one large service that could otherwise easily go unnoticed.
2,7 Before adjusting the chain, loosen 2.8 Remove the cotter pin and loosen the 2.9 Loosen and back-off the locknuts on
both torque link nuts (arrows) axle nut the chain adjuster bolts
3.6b To change the gap, bend the side 4.1 Details of the air suction valves and 4.4 To disconnect the hoses from the air
electrode; be careful not to crack the hoses switching valve covers, simply pull them
center electrode insulator 1 Vacuum switching valve straight up
2 Air suction valve
very careful not to chip or crack the insulator 8 Once the plugs are finger tight, the job can 2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
nose (see illustration). Make sure the washer be finished with a socket. If a torque wrench is 3 Remove the ignition coils (see Chapter 5). i
is in place before installing each plug. available, tighten the spark plugs to the torque 4 Disconnect the hoses from the air suction
7 Since the cylinder heads are made of listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If you valves (see illustration). Remove the bolts
aluminum, which is soft and easily damaged, do not have a torque wrench, tighten the and lift off the suction valve covers.
plugs finger tight (until the washers bottom on 5 Pry the reed valve plates out of the valve
thread the plugs into the heads by hand.
the cylinder head) then use a wrench to cover (see illustration). Check the valves for
tighten them an additional 1/4 turn. cracks, warping, burning or other damage
Regardless of the method used, do not over (see illustration). Check the area where the
tighten them. reeds contact the valve holder for scratches,
9 Reconnect the spark plug caps. separation and grooves. If any of these
conditions are noted on either valve, replace
it.
4 Clean air system - check 6 Wash the valves with solvent if carbon has
n accumulated between the reed and the valve
holder.
7 Installation of the valves is the reverse of
1 The clean air system (see illustration), removal. Be sure to use a new gasket.
installed on US models only, consists of a pair
Since the plugs are recessed, slip a of one-way check valves that allow fresh air to
short length of hose over the end of the flow into the exhaust ports. The suction 5 Throttle operation/grip
plug to use as a tool to thread it into developed by the exhaust pulses pulls the air freeplay - ||
place. The hose will grip the plug well from the air cleaner, through a hose to the check and adjustment ^
enough to turn it, but will start to slip if vacuum switch valve, through a pair of hoses
the plug begins to cross-thread in the and two pairs of reed valves, and finally into
hole - this will prevent damaged threads the exhaust ports. The introduction of fresh air Check
and the accompanying repair costs. helps ignite any fuel that may not have been 1 Make sure the throttle grip rotates easily
burned by the normal combustion process. from fully closed to fully open with the front
4.5a Remove the retaining bolts and the valve cover, then 4.5b Check the reeds (arrows) on the air suction valve for
carefully pry the reed plate out of the cover damage and carbon build-up
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1.9
wheel turned at various angles. The grip (see illustration), then turn both adjusting don’t work in a garage where a natural
should return automatically from fully open to nuts in completely. gas-type appliance (such as a water
fully closed when released. If the throttle 6 Turn out the adjusting nut of the decelerator heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is
sticks, check the throttle cables for cracks or cable until the inner cable becomes tight, then present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic,
kinks in the housings. Also, make sure the tighten the locknut. wear latex gloves when there’s a
inner cables are clean and well-lubricated. 7 Turn the accelerator adjusting nut until the possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if
2 Check for a small amount of freeplay at the desired freeplay is obtained, then tighten the you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
grip and compare the freeplay to the value locknut. Make sure the throttle linkage lever immediately with soap and water. Mop up
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. contacts the idle adjusting screw when the any spills immediately and do not store
throttle grip is released (see illustration) and fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
Adjustment stops against the carburetor stopper with the When you perform any kind of work on the
Note: These motorcycles use two throttle throttle grip open (see illustration). fuel system, wear safety glasses and have
cables - an accelerator cable and a a fire extinguisher suitable for a class B
decelerater cable. type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
3 Freeplay adjustments can be made at the Carburetors - synchronization ^
throttle end of the cable. Loosen the and idle speed Synchronization
lockwheel on the cable (see illustration) and 1 Out-of-sync carburetors will reduce fuel
turn the adjuster until the desired freeplay is mileage, increase engine temperature,
obtained, then retighten the lockwheel. Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is respond unevenly to throttle inputs and
4 If the cables can’t be adjusted at the grip
end, you’ll have to adjust them at the other
(carburetor) end. To do so, remove the fuel
A extremely flammable, so take
extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
increase engine vibration levels. Carburetor
synchronization is the process of adjusting
the carburetors so they deliver the same
tank (see Chapter 4). system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames amount of air/fuel mixture to each cylinder.
5 Loosen the locknuts on both throttle cables or bare light bulbs near the work area, and The carbs are synchronized by measuring the
5.7a Be sure the linkage lever (upper arrow) contacts the idle 5.7b . . . and stops against the carburetor stopper (arrow) with the
screw (lower arrow) when the throttle is released . . . throttle open
i.io Every 3000 miles (5000 km)
vacuum produced in each cylinder, then
adjusting all four carbs to the same vacuum
reading. Four identical carburetors producing
the same intake vacuum will theoretically
deliver the same amount of fuel at a given
throttle setting.
2 To properly synchronize the carburetors,
you will need some sort of vacuum gauge
setup, preferably with a gauge for each
cylinder, or a mercury manometer, which is a
calibrated tube arrangement that utilizes
columns of mercury to indicate engine
vacuum.
3 A manometer can be purchased from a
6.9a Disconnect the hoses from these
m otorcycle dealer or accessory shop and
vacuum pipes (arrows) (carburetors
should have the necessary rubber hoses
removed for clarity). . .
supplied with it for hooking into the vacuum
hose fittings on the carburetors. hoses from the vacuum pipes on the top of gauge or manometer and attach the hoses to
4 A vacuum gauge setup can also be the intake boots (see illustration), then hook the fittings on the carburetors. Reinstall the
purchased from a dealer or fabricated from up the vacuum gauge set or the manometer fuel tank and seat.
commonly available hardware and automotive according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
vacuum gauges. Make sure there are no leaks in the setup, as Idle speed
5 The manometer is the more reliable and false readings will result (see illustration). 17 The idle speed should be checked and
accurate instrument, and for that reason is 10 Reconnect the fuel line to the fuel tank adjusted when it is obviously too high or too
preferred over the vacuum gauge setup; (it’s not necessary to hook-up the vacuum line low, but only after the carburetors are
however, since the mercury used in the to the fuel tap). synchronized. Before adjusting the idle speed,
manometer is a liquid, and extremely toxic, 11 Start the engine and make sure the idle make sure the valve clearances and spark
extra precautions must be taken during use speed is correct. plug gaps are correct. Also, turn the
and storage of the instrument. 12 The vacuum readings for all of the handlebars back-and-forth and see if moving
6 Because of the need for a carb cylinders should be the same, or at least the bars changes the idle speed. If it does, the
synchronization setup like one of the two within the tolerance listed in this Chapter’s throttle cable may not be adjusted correctly,
described above, most owners leave this task Specifications. If the vacuum readings vary, or it may be worn out. Be sure to correct this
to a dealer service department or a reputable adjust as necessary. problem before proceeding.
m otorcycle repair shop. But if you want to 13 To perform the adjustment, synchronize 18 The engine should be at normal operating
tackle this job, here's how it’s done: the carburetors for cylinders 1 and 2 by temperature, which is usually reached after 10
7 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches turning the butterfly valve adjusting screw to 15 minutes of stop-and-go riding. Place the
normal operating temperature, then check between those two carburetors, as needed, motorcycle on the centerstand and make sure
and, if necessary, adjust the idle speed (see until the vacuum is identical or nearly identical the transmission is in Neutral.
Section 6). Shut off the engine. for those two cylinders (see illustration). 19 Locate the idle adjusting screw on the left
8 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) and 14 Next, synchronize the carburetors for side of the bike, just above the engine and just
place it on a nearby bench or tool cart right cylinders 3 and 4, using the butterfly valve behind and below the left carburetor (see
next to the bike. The tank must be higher than adjusting screw situated between those two illustrations). Turn the screw until the idle
the carburetor float bowls. Or, have an carburetors (see illustration 6.13). speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications is
assistant hold the fuel tank out of the way, but 15 Finally, synchronize the carburetors for obtained.
in such a position that fuel can still be cylinders 1 and 2 to the carburetors for 20 Snap the throttle open and shut a few
delivered and access to the carburetors is cylinders 3 and 4 by turning the center times, then recheck the idle speed. If
unobstructed. Place the fuel tap lever in the adjusting screw (see illustration 6.13). necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.
Prime position. On E models, remove the air 16 When the adjustment is complete, 21 If a smooth, steady idle can’t be achieved,
filter housing (see Chapter 4). recheck the vacuum readings and idle speed, the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect. Refer to
9 Clearly label, then detach the vacuum then stop the engine. Remove the vacuum Chapter 4 for additional carburetor information
6.13 Turn screw (A) to synchronize cylinder 6.19a On D models, the idle speed screw 6.19b On E models, the idle speed screw
nos. 1 and 2; then screw (B) for nos. 3 and (arrow) is underneath the carburetors (arrow) is on the left side of the engine,
4; synchronize the two pairs of carburetors above and ahead of the countershaft
with screw (C) sprocket cover
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1.11
Refer to Section 2.
9.2b The pads should have at least the specified minimum of 9.3 Check the rear brake pads by looking into the caliper from the
lining material left on the backing plate rear of the machine
least the specified minimum amount of lining and make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is Brake pedal position
material remaining on the metal backing plate correct (see ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the
8 Rear brake pedal position is largely a matteTi
(see illustration). Be sure to check the pads beginning of this Manual). Look for leaks at
of personal preference. Locate the pedal so
in both calipers. the hose connections and check for cracks in
that the rear brake can be engaged quickly
3 Check the rear brake pads by looking into the hoses. If the lever is spongy, bleed the
and easily without excessive foot movement
the caliper from the rear of the machine (see brakes as described in Chapter 7.
The recommended factory setting
illustration). Brake light switches approximately 55 mm (2-1/64 inches) below
4 If the pads are worn excessively, they must the top of the footpeg.
4 Make sure the brake light operates when
be replaced with new ones (see Chapter 7). 9 To adjust the position of the pedal, loosen
the brake lever is depressed.
5 Make sure the brake light is activated when the locknut on the clevis, then screw the
10 Brake system - the rear brake pedal is depressed pushrod with the hex head in or out of the
approximately 11 mm (7/16 inch). clevis to adjust the position of the brake pedal
general check
6 If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch (see illustration).
and turn the adjusting nut on the switch body 10 If necessary, adjust the brake light switch
(see illustration) until the brake light is (see Steps 5 and 6).
1 A routine general check of the brakes will
activated when required. The factory
ensure that any problems are discovered and recommends 10mm (0.39 inch) of pedal
remedied before the rider’s safety is freeplay. Moving the switch up activates the 11 Lubrication - general
jeopardized. brake lights sooner; lowering the switch
2 Check the brake lever and pedal for loose activates the lights later. If the brake lights
connections, excessive play, bends, and don’t come on when the brake pedal is
other damage. Replace any damaged parts depressed, check the switch (see Chapter 9). 1 Since the controls, cables and various other
with new ones (see Chapter 7). 7 The front brake light switch is not components of a motorcycle are exposed to the
3 Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. adjustable. If it fails to operate properly, elements, they should be lubricated periodically
Check the brake pads for wear (see Section 9) replace it with a new one (see Chapter 9). to ensure safe and trouble-free operation.
10.6 Hold the switch and turn the adjusting nut on the switch 10.9 To adjust the pedal, loosen the locknut on the clevis, then
body until the brake light is activated screw the pushrod in or out
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1-13
11.3a A pressure lube adapter makes 11.3b Make a funnel with a small piece of 12.2 Pull the choke lever until the starter
tubing a cable easier and neater (available plastic, tape it to the cable and carefully plunger lever at the carburetor (A)
at most bike shops) pour oil into the funnel contacts the plunger (B)
2 The footpegs, clutch and brake lever, brake other end. When attaching the cable to Adjustm ent
pedal, shift lever and side and centerstand the lever, be sure to lubricate the barrel
3 Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster
pivots should be lubricated frequently. In shaped fitting at the end with multi-purpose
at the middle of the cable (see illustration)
order for the lubricant to be applied where it grease.
until the proper amount of freeplay is
will do the most good, the component should 4 Speedometer and tachom eter cables
obtained.
be disassembled. However, if chain and cable should be removed from their housings and
4 Tighten the locknut against the adjuster
lubricant is being used, it can be applied to lubricated with motor oil or cable lubricant in a
when you’re done.
the pivot joint gaps and will usually work its similar fashion.
way into the areas where friction occurs. If 5 The procedures for lubricating the
motor oil or light grease is being used, apply it swingarm bearings and rear shock absorber
sparingly as it may attract dirt (which could linkage are in Chapter 6. 13 Engine oil/filter - change
cause the controls to bind or wear at an
accelerated rate). Note: One o f the best
lubricants for the control lever pivots is a dry-
filmlubricant (available from many sources by
different names).
12 Choke cable -
% 1 Consistent routine oil and filter changes are
the single most im portant maintenance
3 The throttle, choke and clutch cables
should be separated from the handlebar lever
check and adjustment
I procedure you can perform on a motorcycle.
The oil not only lubricates the internal parts
and bracket before they’re lubricated. They of the engine, transm ission and clutch,
should be treated with m otor oil or a but it also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a
commercially available cable lubricant which Check sealant, and a protectant. Because of
is specially formulated for use on motorcycle 1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). these demands, the oil takes a terrific amount
control cables. Small adapters for pressure 2 To calculate the amount of choke cable of abuse and should be replaced often
lubricating the cables with spray can freeplay at the choke lever, pull the choke with new oil of the recommended grade and
lubricants are available and ensure that the lever until the starter plunger lever at the type.
cable is lubricated along its entire length (see carburetor contacts the starter plunger (see
illustration). If motor oil is being used, tape a illustration). The amount of choke lever travel HAYNES Saving a little money on the
funnel-shaped piece of heavy paper or plastic is equal to the amount of choke cable difference in cost between a
to the end of the cable, then pour oil into the freeplay. Compare your measurement to the good oil and a cheap oil
funnel and suspend the end of the cable choke cable freeplay listed in this Chapter’s won’t pay off if the engine is
upright (see illustration). Leave it until Specifications. If the freeplay is incorrect, damaged.
the oil runs down into the cable and out the adjust the choke cable.
2 Before changing the oil and filter, warm up
the engine so the oil will drain easily. Be
careful when draining the oil, as the exhaust
pipes, the engine, and the oil itself can cause
severe burns.
3 Put the motorcycle on the centerstand over
a clean drain pan.
4 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).
The oil cooler impedes removal of the oil filter.
Remove the oil cooler (see Chapter 3), leaving
the oil hoses connected to the engine.
5 Remove the oil filler cap to vent the
crankcase (and serve as a reminder that
there’s no oil in the engine!).
6 Remove the drain plug (see illustration)
12.3 Loosen the locknut and turn the 13.6 Remove the drain plug (arrow) from from the engine and allow the oil to drain into
adjuster at the until the correct freeplay is the engine and allow the oil to drain into a the pan. Discard the drain plug sealing
obtained pan washer.
1*14 Every 3000 miles (5000 km)
13.7a While the oil is draining, remove the oil filter (1) with an oil 13.7b Properly engaged, the filter and filter wrench look like this
filter wrench (2) (filter removed from bike for clarity)
7 While the oil is draining, remove the oil filter re-thread the hole and you may even have to (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, etc.) for
with an oil filter wrench (see illustrations). replace the pan. transport to one of these disposal sites.
8 Wipe any residual oil off the filter sealing 11 Install the oil cooler using new O-rings
surface on the crankcase. And be sure to (see Chapter 3)
Note: It is
wipe off any oil spilled on the exhaust 12 Refill the crankcase to the proper level with
headers. If the headers are oily when the antisocial and
the recommended oil and install the filler cap.
engine is started, this oil will smoke and may Start the engine and let it run for two or three illegal to dump oil
even burst into flame. minutes. Shut it off, wait a few minutes, then down the drain.
9 Coat the gasket on the new filter with clean check the oil level. If necessary, add more oil to To find the
engine oil. Install the filter and hand tighten it. bring the level up to the Maximum mark. Check location of your
The filter should be snug, but do not around the drain plug and filter housing for local oil recycling
overtighten it or you’ll have difficulty removing leaks. Install the lower fairing (see Chapter 8) o il i * ii k i i n i bank, call this
it next time. 13 The old oil drained from the engine cannot 0800 66 33 66 number free.
10 Check the condition of the drain plug be reused in its present state and should be
threads. Using a new sealing washer, install disposed of. Oil reclamation centers, auto In the USA, note that any oil supplier must
the drain plug and tighten it to the torque repair shops and gas stations will normally accept used oil for recycling
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Do not accept the oil, which can be refined and used
overtighten the drain plug! Overtightening the again (be sure to check with the repair shop or
plug can strip out the threads in the pan. If gas station first). After the oil has cooled, it 14 Air filter element -
this happens, you will at least have to can be drained into a suitable container servicina ^
HAYNES Check the old oil carefully. If the oil was drained into a clean pan, small
pieces of metal or other material can be easily detected. If the oil is very Note: Replace the air filter element every five
HilUT metallic colored, then the engine is experiencing wear from break-in (new cleanings (or more frequently, if the bike is
operated in dusty conditions).
engine) or from insufficient lubrication. If there are flakes or chips o f metal
in the oil, then something is drastically wrong internally and the engine will have to 1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8) and the
be disassembled for inspection and repair. If there are pieces of fiber-like material in fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
the oil, the clutch is experiencing excessive wear and should be checked. 2 Remove the upper half of the air cleaner
housing (see illustrations).
14.2a To remove the upper half of the air 14.2b To remove the upper half of the air 14.2c . . . and remove these bolts (arrows);
cleaner housing on D models, remove cleaner housing on E models, remove to ensure proper reassembly, clearly label
these screws (arrows) these bolts (arrow s). . . all hoses
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1.15
14.3a Removing the air filter on a 0 model 14.3b Removing the air filter on an E model
3 Remove the air filter element (see Check since clearance is limited by the instrument
illustrations). Wipe out the housing with a cluster and the frame.
2 To check the bearings, place the
clean rag. 8 Carefully tighten the steering stem locknut
motorcycle on the centerstand and block the
4 If the filter element is extremely dirty or torn, until the steering head is tight but does not
machine so the front wheel is in the air.
replace it. If it’s still in reasonable condition, bind when the forks are turned from side-to-
3 Point the wheel straight ahead and slowly
wash it in clean solvent, then dry it out with side (see illustration).
move the handlebars from side-to-side. Dents
compressed air. After cleaning the element, 9 Retighten the steering head nut and the
or roughness in the bearing races will be felt
saturate it with SE or SF class SAE30 oil, fork pinch bolts, in that order, to the torque
and the bars will not move smoothly.
squeeze out the excess oil, then wrap it in a values listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications.
4 Next, grasp the fork legs and try to move 10 Recheck the steering head bearings for
clean rag and squeeze it as dry as possible. the wheel forward and backward (see play as described above. If necessary, repeat
Make sure you don’t tear the filter. illustration). Any looseness in the steering
5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make head bearings will be felt. If play is felt in
sure the element is seated properly in the filter the bearings, adjust the steering head as
housing before installing the cover. Reinstall follows:
the fuel tank bracket, fuel tank and seat.
Adjustment
5 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
6 Remove the lower inner fairing (the small
15 Steering head bearings - access panel on the underside of the upper
check and adjustment fairing, above the front wheel, used for
accessing the brake junction pipe and the
horn) in order to reach the fork lower pinch
1 This vehicle is equipped with tapered-roller bolts (see Chapter 8).
type steering head bearings which can 7 Loosen the steering head nut and the fork
become dented, rough or loose during normal lower pinch bolts (see illustrations). Note:
useof the machine. In extreme cases, worn or While it isn't absolutely necessary to remove 15.4 Try to move the forks back-and-forth;
loose steering head bearings can cause the upper triple clamp, doing so will make it if you feel any play, adjust the steering
steering wobble that is potentially dangerous. easier to turn the special spanner wrench head bearings
15.7a Loosen the steering head nut . . . 15.7b . . . and loosen the fork lower pinch 15.8 Tightening the steering stem locknut
bolts (fairing removed for clarity) with the Kawasaki tool (upper triple clamp
removed for clarity)
1.16 Every 3000 miles (5000 km)
the adjustment procedure. Reinstall all parts infrequent use of the motorcycle prevents!
previously removed. normal charging from taking place.
11 Refer to Chapter 6 for steering head 8 Be sure to correct any problems and,
bearing lubrication and replacement charge the battery if necessary. Refer to
procedures. Chapter 9 for additional battery maintenance
and charging procedures.
9 Install the battery cell caps, tightening them
securely. Reconnect the cables to the battery,
16 Tires/wheels - general check attaching the positive cable first and the
negative cable last. Make sure to install the
insulating boot over the positive terminal.
Install the fuel tank mount and the seat. Be
very careful not to pinch or otherwise restrict
Tires the battery vent tube (if equipped), as the
1 Check the tires for damage, tread depth 17.5 On D models, check the battery’s battery may build up enough internal pressure
and correct pressure as described in the Dail specific gravity with a hydrometer during normal charging system operation to
(pre-ride) checks. 4 Next, check the specific gravity of the explode.
Wheels electrolyte in each cell with a small
hydrometer made especially for motorcycle Battery terminal corrosion
2 The cast wheels used on this machine are HAYNES
batteries (if the electrolyte level is known to be can be minimised by
virtually maintenance free, but they should be
kept clean and checked periodically for
sufficient it won’t be necessary to remove the HilUT applying a layer of
battery). These are available from most dealer petroleum jelly to the
cracks and other damage. Never attempt to parts departments or motorcycle accessory terminals after the leads have been
repair damaged cast wheels; they must be stores. connected.
replaced with new ones. 5 Remove the caps, draw some electrolyte
3 Check the valve stem locknuts to make from the first cell into the hydrometer (see
sure they are tight. Also, make sure the valve illustration) and note the specific gravity.
stem cap is in place and tight. If it is missing, Battery charging condition
Compare the reading to the Specifications
install a new one made of metal or hard (E models)
listed in this Chapter. Note: Add 0.004 points
plastic. to the reading for every 10-degrees F above Note: E models use a maintenance-free
68-degrees F - subtract 0.004 points from the battery. Do not attempt to remove the caps to
reading for every 10-degrees below 68- check the specific gravity or to add electrolyte
degrees F. Return the electrolyte to the or water.
17 Battery condition - check 10 Remove the seat and remove the small
appropriate cell and repeat the check for the
remaining cells. When the check is complete, black plastic package tray (see illustration).
rinse the hydrometer thoroughly with clean 11 Using a digital voltmeter, measure the
water. battery voltage as shown (see illustration). It
Warning: Be extremely careful should be at least 12.6 volts. If it isn’t, try
HAYNES The battery cell holes are 17.10 To remove the package tray on E
quite small, so it may help to models, remove these four bolts (arrows)
HilUT use a plastic squeeze bottle
Don’t lose the metal piece that’s attached by 17.11 Use a digital voltmeter to measure
with a small spout to add
the two front bolts - it secures the front end of battery voltage; it should be at least 12.6
the water.
the seat volts
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1-17
Gearshift lever
Footpegs and sidestand
Engine mount bolts
Shock absorber mount bolts
Rear suspension linkage bolts
Front axle and clamp bolt
Rear axle nut
3 If a torque wrench is available, use it along
with the Torque specifications at the
beginning of this, or other, Chapters.
Exhaust system
4 Periodically check all of the exhaust system
17.12 Remove the cables from the 18.5 The exhaust pipe flange nuts (arrow) joints for leaks and loose fasteners. The lower
terminals (remove the negative cable first) should be checked frequently and fairing will have to be removed to do this
and pull the battery straight up tightened if necessary properly (see Chapter 8). If tightening the
clamp bolts fails to stop any leaks, replace the
18 Fasteners - check % loosen fasteners, all nuts, bolts, screws, etc. gaskets with new ones (a procedure which
ft
21.2 Using a compression gauge with a 22.6a To position no. 1 piston at Top Dead
threaded fitting for the spark plug hole Center, turn the crankshaft until the TDC
mark on the rotor (“T,1 4”) is aligned with
the timing mark on the crankcase
PRESENT S H IM Example
PART No. (92180 -) 1014 1016 1018 1020 1022 1024 1026 1028 1030 1032 1034 1036 1038 1040 1042 1044 1046 1048 1050 1052 1054
MARK 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 00 05 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50
THICKNESS (m m ) 2.50 2.55 2 60 2.65 2.70 2.75 2.80 2.85 2.90 2.95 3.00 3 05 3.10 3.15 3.20 3.25 3 30 3 35 3.40 3.45 3.50
2.65 2^70
2.70 2.75 3.00
2.80 3.20 3 40
SPECIFIED C LE A R A N C E /N O CHANGE REQUIRED
2.70 2.80 2.85 2.90 2.95 3.00 3.05 3.10 3.15 3.20 3.25
2.70 2.95 3.30
3.00 3.30 3.40
2.70 2.80 2.90
3.00
3.30
3.40
3.40
3.30
3.35
1.08 ~ 1.12 3.40
113 ~ 1.17
0.00 ~ 0.04
0.05 0.09
0.10 ~ 0.14
0.15 ~ 0.19
0.20 ~ 0.21
®
a. 0 22 ~ 0.31 SPECIFIED CLEARANCE/NO CHANGE REQUIRED
E
CO
X 0.32 0.34
Hi
0.35 ~ 0.39
I 0.40 0.44
0.45 ~ 0.49
0.50 ~ 0.54
0.55 0.59
0.60 ~ 0.64
0 65 0.69
0.70 ~ 0.74
0.75 0.79
0 80 ~ 0.84
0.85 0.89
0.90 ~ 0.94 INSTALL THE S H IM OF THIS THICKNESS (m m )
0.95 ~ 0.99
1.00 1.04
1.05 ~ 1.09
1.10 ~ 1.14
1.15 ~ 1.19
1.20 ~ 1.24
1.25 ~ 1.29
c) Follow the lines across and down from and recheck the clearances (see Chapter
HAYNES It is worthwhile noting down
these two entries until they meet. The and Steps 6 through 12 above).
all the valve shim
number listed in that space (3.30 mm) is 20 With all of the clearances within th
thicknesses to save time
the needed shim thickness. Specifications, install the valve cover and
and expense when the valve
18 Perform Steps 15 through 17 to select a of the components that had to be removed to
clearances are next adjusted; provided
new shim for each of the valves that needed get it off.
they are not worn or damaged, the
adjustment. 21 Install the fuel tank and reconnect thi
shims can be moved to other locations.
19 Install the shims, lifters and camshafts cable to the negative terminal of the battery,
A
Warning: The engine must be
|\ cool before beginning this 2 Examine each of the rubber coolant hoses necessary (see Chapter 8). Leaks in the
procedure. along its entire length. Look for cracks, radiator leave tell-tale scale deposits
abrasions and other damage. Squeeze each coolant stains on the outside of the core
Note: Refer to ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the hose at various points. They should feel firm, below the leak. If leaks are noted, remove the
Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km) 1.21
23.6 Turn the cap slowly to the first stop and allow all pressure to 23.7 An antifreeze hydrometer is helpful for determining the
escape before removing it condition of the coolant
The arrow points to the thermostat housing bleeder bolt
radiator (refer to Chapter 3) and have it 9 If the coolant level is consistently low, and illustration 24.6). Place a large, clean drain
repaired at a radiator shop or replace it with a no evidence of leaks can be found, have the pan under the left side of the engine.
new one. entire system pressure checked by a 11 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).
Caution: Do not use a liquid leak stopping Kawasaki dealer service department, 12 Remove the drain bolt from the water
compound to try to repair leaks. motorcycle repair shop or service station. pump outlet pipe (the one closer to the
5 Check the radiator fins for mud, dirt and engine) and allow the coolant to drain into the
insects, which may impede the flow of air Draining pan (see illustration). Note: The coolant will
through the radiator. If the fins are dirty, force Warning: Allow the engine to rush out with considerable force, so position
water or low pressure compressed air through
the fins from the backside. If the fins are bent
or distorted, straighten them carefully with a
A cool completely before
performing this maintenance
operation. Also, don’t allow
the drain pan accordingly. Remove the
radiator cap completely to ensure that all o f
the coolant can drain.
screwdriver. antifreeze to come into contact with your 13 Remove the reservoir (see Chapter 3) and
6 Remove the trim panel between the tank skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. drain it. Wash out the reservoir with water.
and the right fairing (see Chapter 8), then Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of
remove the radiator cap by turning it water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Flushing
counterclockwise until it reaches a stop. If you Never leave antifreeze lying around in an 14 Flush the system with clean tap water by
hear a hissing sound (indicating there is still open container or in puddles on the floor; inserting a garden hose in the radiator filler
pressure in the system), wait until it stops. children and pets are attracted by its neck. Allow the water to run through the
Now, press down on the cap and continue sweet smell and may drink it. Check with system until it is clear when it exits the drain
turning the cap counterclockwise until it can local authorities about disposing of used bolt hole. If the radiator is extremely corroded,
be removed (see illustration). Check the antifreeze. Many communities have remove it by referring to Chapter 3 and have it
condition of the coolant in the radiator. If it is collection centers which will see that cleaned at a radiator shop.
rust colored or if accumulations of scale are antifreeze is disposed of safely. Antifreeze 15 Check the drain bolt gasket. Replace it
visible in the radiator, drain, flush and refill the is also combustible, so don’t store or use it with a new one if necessary.
system with new coolant. Check the cap near open flames. 16 Clean the hole, then install the drain bolt
gaskets for cracks and other damage. Have 10 Remove the plastic trim panel between and tighten it to the torque listed in this
the cap tested by a dealer service department the right side of the fairing and the fuel tank Chapter’s Specifications.
or replace it with a new one. Install the cap by (see Chapter 8). Loosen the radiator cap (see 17 Fill the cooling system with clean water
turning it clockwise until it reaches the first mixed with a flushing compound. Make sure
stop, then push down on the cap and the flushing 1compound is com patible with
continue turning until it can turn no further. aluminum components, and follow the
7 Check the antifreeze content of the coolant manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
with an antifreeze hydrom eter (see 18 Start the engine and allow it to reach
illustration). Sometimes coolant may look like normal operating temperature. Let it run for
it's in good condition, but might be too weak about ten minutes.
to offer adequate protection. If the 19 Stop the engine. Let the machine cool for
hydrometer indicates a weak mixture, drain, awhile, then cover the radiator cap with a
flush and refill the cooling system. heavy rag and turn it counterclockwise to the
8 Start the engine and let it reach normal first stop, releasing any pressure that may be
operating temperature, then check for leaks present in the system. Once the hissing stops,
again. As the coolant temperature increases, push down on the cap and remove it
the fan should come on automatically and the completely.
temperature should begin to drop. If it does 23.12 Remove the bolt from the water 20 Drain the system once again.
not, refer to Chapter 3 and check the fan and pump outlet pipe (hose disconnected from 21 Fill the system with clean water, then
fan circuit carefully. inlet pipe for clarity) repeat Steps 9,10 and 11.
1.22 Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km)
25.24a Depress the plug with a large punch 25.24b . . . and remove the plug 25.24c Pull out the spacer . . .
or Phillips screwdriver, remove the wire
retaining ring . . .
... and remove the spring seat (the 25.24e Remove the fork spring and 25.26 Raise the wheel to compress the
large washer) with a magnet remember which end faces down forks and measure the distance from the
(the slightly tapered end) tube top to the oil
17 Pour out the old fork oil into a suitable damping adjustment rod into the fork and remove the wire retaining ring (see illustration).
container, then firmly grasp the fork tube and screw the top bolt securely into the fork tube. On E3-on models, unscrew the fork top bolt
pump the fork slider up and down several 21 Repeat this procedure for the other fork leg. and carefully withdraw the long damping
limesto make sure all the old oil is expelled. 22 Install the fork legs (see Chapter 6). adjustment rod from the fork. Pull out the
18 Pour the type and amount of fork oil listed spacer, spring seat (large washer) and fork
inthis Chapter’s Specifications into the fork Calculating the am ount o f fork spring (see illustrations).
tubethrough the opening at the top. oil without draining the forks 25 Place a small jack under the front wheel,
19 Install the fork spring with the smaller Note: If one fork seal has been leaking, or if then slowly pump it up until the front fork
(tapered) end facing down into the fork tube. the oil in one fork leg is simply lower or higher sliders (the lower part of the forks) are fully
Install the spring seat and spacer. than the other leg for some reason, you can compressed.
20 Install the top plug (don’t forget the use the follow ing m ethod to calculate the 26 Insert a tape measure into the fork tube
ifMing!). On E1 and E2 models, depress the correct amount o f oil in each leg w ithout and measure the distance from the top of the
top plug with a large punch or Phillips draining the old oil. tube to the oil (see illustration). Compare
screwdriver, and install the wire retaining ring, 23 Remove the handlebar from one side (see your measurement to the distance listed in
■ike sure the ring is properly seated in its Chapter 6). this Chapter’s Specifications, then add or
groove in the tube before releasing the plug. 24 On E1 and E2 models, depress the top plug subtract oil as necessary. If you’re removing
On E3-on models, carefully install the with a large punch or Phillips screwdriver and oil, use a small syringe.
Once a year
a carburetor de-icing system (see illustration 3 Drain the coolant (see Section 24).
26 Coolant filter (UK E models o' overleaf) that uses engine coolant to 4 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
1 only) - description and ^ prevent icing around the mouths of the 5 Remove the filter (see illustration 26.1).
I maintenance ^ carburetors. 6 Blow off any dirt and sediment on the filter
with compressed air.
M aintenance
Description 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
2 Every year, prior to the winter riding season,
ME models sold in the UK are equipped with clean the coolant filter.
1.24 Additional maintenance
Clamp
Cooling hose
Coolant filter
Thick side
Check valve
Chain cover
Water pum p cover
Main harness
Clamp
Clamp
Viewed A
Coolant Flow
1 Periodic cleaning and repacking of the 1 Periodic cleaning and repacking of the 1 Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the front
steering head bearings is recommended by wheel bearings is recommended by the wheel. Disengage the speedometer drive unit
the manufacturer. Refer to Chapter 6 for manufacturer. Refer to Chapter 7 for wheel from the wheel and grease its drive gear.
steering head bearing lubrication and bearing lubrication and replacement
replacement procedures. procedures.
1 Fuel system hoses will deteriote with age 1 Brake system hoses will deteriote with age
and must be replaced with new ones. and must be replaced with new ones.
2 Refer to Chapter 4. 2 Refer to Chapter 7, Section 7.
Chapter 2
Engine, clutch and transmission
Contents
Camshaft chain and guides - removal, inspection Initial start-up after overhaul..............................................................31
and installation ...............................................................................27 Main and connecting rod bearings - general note ...........................24
Camshaft chain tensioner - removal and installation ....................... 8 Major engine repair - general note .................................................... 4
Camshafts and lifters - removal, inspection and installation .......... 9 Oil cooler - removal and installation............................... See Chapter 3
Clutch cable - replacement................................................................ 19 Oil pan - removal and installation......................................................16
[
Clutch - removal, inspection and installation ................................... 20
Connecting rods and bearings - removal, inspection
Oil pressure relief valves - removal, inspection and installation . . . . 18
Oil pump - pressure check, removal,
inspection and installation.............................................................. 17
and installation ...............................................................................26 Operations possible with the engine in the fram e ............................. 2
Crankcase components - inspection and servicing .........................23 Operations requiring engine removal ................................................ 3
Crankcase - disassembly and reassem bly....................................... 22 Piston rings - installation.................................................................... 15
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, inspection Pistons - removal, inspection and installation ................................. 14
and installation ...............................................................................25 Recommended break-in procedure ..................................................32
Cylinder block - removal, inspection and installation.......................13 Shift drum and forks - removal, inspection and installation............ 29
Cylinder compression check ......................................... See Chapter 1 Shift shaft/external shift mechanism - removal,
Cylinder head and valves - disassembly, inspection inspection and installation.............................................................. 21
and reassembly...............................................................................12 Spark plug replacem ent..................................................See Chapter 1
Cylinder head - removal and installation........................................... 10 Transmission shafts - disassembly, inspection and reassembly . . . 30
Engine disassembly and reassembly - general inform a tion ............ 6 Transmission shafts - removal and installation................................. 28
Engine oil/filter change....................................................See Chapter 1 Valve cover - removal and installation ............................................. 7
Engine - removal and installation ...................................................... 5 Valves/valve seats/valve guides - servicing ..................................... 11
Fluid levels - check..................................... See Daily (pre-ride) checks Water pump - check, removal and installation.............. See Chapter 3
General information............................................................................ 1
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Jk Fairly difficult, Jk Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult, SS,
novicewith little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY
experience ^ some experience ^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional
Specifications
General
Bore....................................................................................................... 64.0 mm (2.522 inches)
Stroke...................................................................................................... 46.6 mm (1.836 inches)
Displacement........................................................................................... 599 cc
Compression ratio
Dmodels.............................................................................................. .... 11.5 : 1
Emodels.............................................................................................. 12.0:1
Cylinder numbering ..................................................................................... 1-2-3-4 (from left end of engine)
Firing order.............................................................................................. .... 1-2-4-3
2*2 Engine, clutch and transmission
Camshafts
Lobe height (D models)
Intake
Standard........................................................... 34.93 to 35.07 mm (1.376 to 1.382 inches)
M inimum........................................................... 34.83 mm (1.372 inches)
Exhaust
Standard........ ........... ..................... ................ 34.43 to 34.57 mm (1.357 to 1.362 inches)
M inim um ........................................... ............... 34.33 mm (1.353 inches)
Lobe height (E models)
Intake
Standard........................................................... 34.946 to 35.054 mm (1.377 to 1.381 inches)
Minimum........................................................... 34.846 mm (1.349 inches)
Exhaust
Standard........................................................... 34.346 to 34.454 mm (1.353 to 1.357 inches)
M inimum........................................................... 34.246 mm (1.349 inches)
Bearing oil clearance
Standard............................................................. . 0.028 to 0.071 mm (0.0011 to 0.0028 inch)
Maximum ............................................. ............. . 0.16 mm (0.0063 inch)
Journal diameter
Standard............................................................... 23.950 to 23.972 mm (0.9436 to 0.9445 inch)
Minimum........ .. ............................................... 23.92 mm (0.9425 inch)
Bearing journal inside diameter
Standard............................................................. . 24.000 to 24.021 mm (0.9449 to 0.9457 inch)
Maximum ........................................................... . 24.08 mm (0.9480 inch)
Camshaft runout
Standard............................................................. . 0.02 mm (0.0008 inch) or less
Maximum ............................................................. 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch)
Cam chain 20-link length
Standard.......................................................... .. 127.0 to 127.4 mm (5.0 to 5.0157 inches)
Maximum ................................................... ......... 128.9 mm (5.0748 inches)
Pistons
i dlametfir
inoam ............................... 63.040 to 63.960 mm (2.5192 to 2.5200 inch)
Unimu'n................................. 63.79 mm (2.5133 Inch)
•to-cylnder clearance .. 0.040 to 0.072 mm (0.0018 to 0.0028 inch)
Mig-to-groove clearance
. 0.03 to 0.07 mm (0.0012 to 0.0028 Inch)
•Maximum............................ 0.17 mm ;0.0067 inch)
ring groove width
m dard................................. 0.82 to 0.8*1 mm (0.0323 to 0.0331 Inch)
Maximum............................... 1.12 mm (Q.0441 inch)
ring thickness
idard .................................. 0.77 to 0.79 mm (0.0303 to 0.0311 Inch)
IMinimum...................... 0.70 mm (0.0276 Inch)
ring end gap
id a id ................................. 0.15 to 0.30 mm (0.005!) to 0.0118 Inch)
Maximum ........................ 0.60 mm (0.0236 Inch)
Clutch ^"
Spring free length
Standard....................................................... 33.6 mm (1.3238 inches)
Minimum....................................................... 32.6 mm (1.2844 inches)
Friction and steel plate warpage
Standard....................................... ............... 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch) or less
Maximum ............................. ....................... 0.3 mm (0.0118 inch)
Friction plate thickness
Standard....................................................... 2.9 to 3.1 mm (0.1143 to 0.1221 inch)
Maximum ..................................................... 2.8 mm (0.1103 inch)
Transmission
Shift fork ear thickness
Standard....................................................... 4.9 to 5.0 mm (0.1929 to 0.1969 inch)
Minimum....................................................... 4.8 mm (0.189 inch)
Shift fork groove width in gears
Standard................................................... 5.05 to 5.15 mm (0.1988 to 0.2028 inch)
Maximum ..................................................... 5.2 mm (0.2049 inch)
Shift fork guide pin diameter
Standard....................................................... 7.9 to 8.0 mm (0.3110 to 0.315 inch)
Minimum................................... .. ................ 7.8 mm (0.3071 inch)
Shift drum groove width
Standard............................................. 8.05 to 8.20 mm (0.3169 to 0.3228 inch)
Maximum ..................................................... 8.3 mm (0.3268 inch)
Torque specifications
Engine top end
Valve cover bolts ............................................. 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
Camshaft bearing cap b o lts .............................. 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
Camshaft sprocket bolts ................................. 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs)
Cam chain tensioner mounting b o lts ................ 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
Cylinder head bolts
New bolts, washers, cylinder head................ 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs)
Used bolts, washers, cylinder head .............. 43 Nm (32 ft-lbs)
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*5
5.9a To remove the external oil line, 5.9b . . . and this banjo bolt (arrowed) from 5.14 Remove this bolt (arrowed) fromthe
remove these two banjo bolts (arrowed) the crankcase top of the case and detach the ground stra
from the cylinder head . . .
specified, inspect the oil passages for 3 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
clogging, and inspect the oil pump, oil HAYNES As a general rule, time is the 4 Drain the coolant and the engine oil
pressure relief valves and the crankshaft primary cost of an overhaul Chapter 1).
bearing inserts for excessive wear. so it doesn’t pay to install 5 Remove the ignition coils (see Chapter
5 If the engine is making obvious knocking or worn or substandard parts. 6 Remove the air suction valve and
rumbling noises, the connecting rod and/or vacuum switching valve (see Chapter 1).
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life
main bearings are probably at fault. 7 Remove the carburetors (see Chapter
and minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
6 Loss of power, rough running, excessive and plug the intake openings with rags.
everything must be assembled with care in a
valve train noise and high fuel consumption 8 Remove the radiator, radiator hoses and
spotlessly clean environment.
rates may also point to the need for an cooler (see Chapter 3).
overhaul, especially if they are all present at 9 Remove the external oil line from the fi
the same time. If a complete tune-up does not of the engine (see illustrations).
remedy the situation, major mechanical work
is the only solution.
5 Engine -
% 10 Remove the exhaust system
Chapter 4).
7 An engine overhaul generally involves
restoring the internal parts to the
removal and installation
I 11 Disconnect the lower end of the clul
cable from the lever and bracket (see 'Da
specifications of a new engine. During an (pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of
Warning: Engine removal and
overhaul the piston rings are replaced and the
cylinder walls are bored and/or honed. If a
rebore is done, then new pistons are also
required. The main and connecting rod
A installation should be done with
the aid of at least one assistant
- and preferably two - to avoid
Manual).
12 Remove the engine sprocket covi
unbolt the engine sprocket and detach t
sprocket and chain from the engine (:
back injuries, or injuries that could occur if
bearings are generally replaced with new ones Chapter 7).
the engine is dropped. A hydraulic floor
and, if necessary, the crankshaft is also 13 Mark and disconnect the wires from
jack should be used to support and lower
replaced. Generally the valves are serviced as oil pressure switch, the neutral switch and
the engine if possible (available at any
well, since they are usually in less than perfect starter motor. Unplug the alternat
equipment rental yard).
condition at this point. While the engine is sidestand and pickup coil electric
being overhauled, other components such as connectors (see Chapters 5 and 9).
the carburetors and the starter motor can be Removal 14 Remove the bolt securing the ground 4
rebuilt also. The end result should be a like- 1 Set the bike on its centerstand. to the engine case (see illustration).
new engine that will give as many trouble free 2 Remove the seat, the side covers 15 Remove the heat guards
miles as the original. and the upper and lower fairings (see illustrations).
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read Chapter 8). 16 Support the engine with a floor jack a
through all of the related procedures to
familiarize yourself with the scope and
requirements of the job. Overhauling an
engine is not all that difficult, but it is time
consuming. Plan on the motorcycle being tied
up for a minimum of two (2) weeks. Check on
the availability of parts and make sure that
any necessary special tools, equipment and
supplies are obtained in advance.
9 Most work can be done with typical shop
hand tools, although a number of
precision measuring tools are required for
inspecting parts to determine if they must
be replaced. Often a dealer service
department or motorcycle repair shop will
handle the inspection of parts and offer 5.15a To detach the center heat guard, 5.15b To detach the side heat guards fronl
advice concerning reconditioning and remove these two bolts (arrowed) the frame, remove these two bolts
replacement. (arrowed)
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*7
5.16 Support the engine with a floor jack 5.17a Remove the front left engine bolt 5.17b Remove the right front engine bolt,
the Allen bolts above it and the right
engine mounting bracket
5.18a Hold the bolt on the left side of the 5.18b Use the same technique to remove 5.19 Lower the engine from the frame until
frame and unscrew the lower rear engine the upper rear engine mounting bolt the floor jack is fully collapsed
mounting nut
woodblock (see illustration). Put the block of
woodbetween the two projections on the pan
-allowing the weight of the engine to rest on
theseprojections could damage them.
17 Remove the front engine mounting nuts
andbolts (see illustrations).
18 Pry the plugs from the holes in the frame
and remove the rear engine mounting nuts
andbolts (see illustrations).
19 Slowly and carefully lower the engine
assembly until the jack is fully collapsed (see
illustration).
20 Have a couple of assistants lift the engine
byhand just high enough so you can slip the
jack and wood block out from under the
engine assembly.
21 Place a block of wood under the front
wheel and have one assistant tilt the bike to
one side while you and the other helper drag
the engine assembly out from under the right
sideof the bike.
Installation
22 Be sure to inspect all engine mounting
bushings (see illustration) for cracks and
tears. Replace any damaged or worn
bushings.
23 Once the engine is in position, install the
front and rear mounting bolts, but don’t
tighten them until the engine has been
correctly aligned with the frame. This may
ssem like an unnecessary step, but it’s
not. On these models, the engine is a 5.22 Engine mounting bolts, nuts and bushings (D model shown, E model similar)
2*8 Engine, clutch and transmission
“ stressed-member,” i.e. part of the frame. until it contacts the engine, then tighten to the e) Add the specified 50/50 mixture of
Because of manufacturing tolerances, the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. antifreeze and water (see Chapter 1)
engine must be correctly aligned, or it could Push both mounting bolts the rest of the way and bleed the air from the cooling
affect handling and/or wear on the drive chain through the holes in the adjusters, install the system.
and the countershaft and rear sprockets. A nuts and tighten them to the torque listed in f) Synchronize the carburetors and adjust,
pair of “ adjusters" (actually bushings with this Chapter’s Specifications. the idle (see Chapter 1).
internal hexes) take up the clearance between 25 The alignment procedure for E models
the engine and the frame in both rear (see illustration) is exactly the same except
mounting bolt holes on D models; a single that there’s only one adjuster - for the lower
6 Engine disassembly and
adjuster - in the lower rear hole only - does rear engine mounting bolt.
the same thing on E models. You'll find the 26 The remainder of installation is essentially
reassembly -
adjuster(s) inside the rear engine mounting the reverse of removal, with the following
general information
bolt hole(s) on the right side of the frame. additions:
24 To align the engine on D models, insert a) Use new gaskets at all exhaust pipe 1 Before disassembling the engine, clean
the collars and the rear upper and lower connections. exterior with a degreaser and rinse it v
engine mounting bolts from the left side of the b) Make sure all wires and hoses are routed water.
engine, but don’t shove the bolts all the way properly (refer to the cable, wire and hose
through yet; leave about 25 mm (.985 inch) routing diagrams at the end this book). A clean engine will make th
protruding as shown (see illustration). Screw c) Adjust the drive chain, throttle cables, HAYNES
job easier and prevent the
the lower engine mounting adjuster in a
clockwise direction until it contacts the
choke cable and clutch cable following
the procedures in ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks'
HilUT possibility of getting dirt int
the internal areas of the
engine, then tighten it to the torque listed in and Chapter 1. engine.
this Chapter’s Specifications. Now do the d) Fill the engine with the specified oil (see
same thing with the upper adjuster: Turn it in Chapter 1).
6.3 Construct an engine stand with short 7.8 To remove the valve cover, remove 7.10 Flip the valve cover upside-down and
lengths of 2x4s and lag bolts or nails these eight bolts (arrowed) inspect the chain rubbing block - if it’s
worn, replace it
3 An engine support stand made from short 4 Remove the upper and lower fairings (see Installation
! lengths of 2x4s bolted together will facilitate Chapter 8).
11 Peel the rubber gasket from the cover. If it
the disassembly and reassembly procedures 5 On US models, remove the Air Suction
is cracked, hardened, has soft spots or shows
(see illustration). The perimeter of the mount Valve and the Vacuum Switching Valve (see
signs of general deterioration, replace it.
should be just big enough to accommodate Chapter 1).
12 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder
theengine oil pan. 6 Remove the ignition coils and their
head and the valve cover with lacquer thinner,
4 When disassembling the engine, keep brackets, along with the spark plug wires (see
acetone or brake system cleaner. Apply a thin
"mated” parts together (including gears, Chapter 5).
film of RTV sealant to the half-circle cutouts
cylinders, pistons, etc. that have been in 7 Remove the heat guards (see illustration on each side of the head (see illustration).
contact with each other during engine 5.15a and 5.15b). 13 Install the gasket to the cover. Position
operation). These “ mated” parts must be 8 Remove the valve cover bolts (see the cover on the cylinder head, making sure
reused or replaced as an assembly. illustration). the gasket doesn’t slip out of place.
5 Engine/transmission disassembly should 9 Lift the cover off the cylinder head. If it’s 14 Check the rubber seals on the valve cover
be done in the following general order with stuck, don’t attempt to pry it off - tap around bolts; if they’re cracked, dried out or worn,
reference to the appropriate Sections. the sides of it with a plastic hammer to replace them. Install the bolts, tightening them
Remove the cylinder head dislodge it. evenly to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Remove the cylinder block 10 Check the rubbing block in the center of Specifications.
Remove the pistons the cover - if it’s excessively worn, pry it out 15 The remainder of installation is the reverse
Remove the clutch and install a new one (see illustration). of removal.
Remove the oil pan
Remove the external shift mechanism
Remove the alternator rotor/starter clutch
from the left end o f the crank (see
B Chapter 9)
Remove the starter gear from the left end of
the crankshaft
Remove the timing rotor from the right end
of the crankshaft (see Chapter 5)
Separate the crankcase halves
Remove the crankshaft and connecting
[ | i rods
Remove the transmission shafts/gears
Remove the shift drum/forks
6 Reassembly is accomplished by reversing
thegeneral disassembly sequence.
7 Valve cover -
removal and installation
i p i
8.5 Depress the stopper (arrowed) and push in the plunger. Turr
8.3 Remove the cap bolt (center arrow), washer and spring, then the tensioner upside down and tap it in your hand - the guide pin|
the mounting bolts (outer arrows) will fall out
you retighten them from this position, you top (see illustration), install the tension
Camshaft chain tensioner -
removal and installation
% could damage the tensioner and the cam mounting bolts and tighten them to the torqi
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
I chain. Once the bolts are removed, the
tensioner must be removed and reset as 10 Insert the guide pin into the spring am
described below. And once the tensioner install the spring and guide pin into ttjj
is removed, NEVER turn over the tensioner, then push them in with the capt
Rem oval crankshaft. Doing so could upset cam (see illustration). Don’t forget to put
Note: The camshaft chain tensioner can be chain timing and damage the valves. copper sealing washer on the cap bolt
removed with the engine in the frame. If the 5 Push the stopper to release the ratchet 11 Using a wrench on the crankshaft bolt a
engine has been removed, ignore the steps mechanism (see illustration), depress the the right end of the engine (see Timing rota
which don't apply. tensioner plunger and fish out the guide pin removal and installation in Chapter 5), slow
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. from the spring side of the tensioner. Wash turn the crankshaft over a couple of turns i
2 Remove the fuel tank and carburetors (see the tensioner components with solvent. the normal direction of rotation.
Chapter 4).
3 Remove the tensioner cap bolt, sealing
Installation
9 Camshafts and lifters -
washer and spring (see illustration). 6 Lubricate the friction surfaces of the
removal, inspection and
4 Remove the tensioner mounting bolts and components with moly-based grease.
7 Inspect the tensioner gasket for cracks or
installation
detach the tensioner from the cylinder block.
Caution: This is a “non-return” type cam hardening. If it’s damaged, replace it.
chain tensioner; the tensioner plunger 8 Depress the stopper to release the ratchet Camshafts
doesn’t return to its original position once mechanism (see illustration 8.5) and push in
it has moved out to take up slack in the the tensioner plunger. Removal
cam chain. When removing the tensioner, 9 Position the tensioner body on the cylinder Note: This procedure can be performed I
NEVER take out the bolts only halfway; if block with the arrow on the tensioner at the the engine in the frame.
8.9 Install the cam chain tensioner with the arrow on top 8.10 Install the spring and guide pin into the tensioner, then
collapse the spring with the cap bolt
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*11
9.3 Turn the crankshaft until the T (TDC) mark (2) for 1,4 9.5 Remove these bolts (arrowed) in the reverse order in which
(cylinders 1 and 4) is aligned with the case pointer (1) they’re numbered
1 Remove the front retaining screws from 4 Remove the cam chain tensioner (see cap for right side) embossed on each bearing
both side covers (see Chapter 8), and remove Section 8). cap; when you reinstall the caps, be sure to
the fuel tank and the carburetors (see 5 Note the small numbers embossed on the install them in the same positions.
Chapter 4). bearing caps next to each pair of cap bolts; Caution: If the bearing cap bolts aren’t
2 Remove the valve cover (see Section 7). these numbers indicate the order in which the loosened evenly, the camshaft may bind.
3 Remove the pickup coil cover from the right bearing cap bolts are to be tightened (see 6 Look for marks on the camshafts. The intake
side of the engine (see Chapter 5). Using a illustration 9.21). When loosening the cap camshaft should have an IN mark and the
wrench on the large engine turning hex on the bolts, reverse this order. Unscrew the bearing exhaust camshaft should have an EX mark. If
end of the crankshaft, rotate the engine cap bolts (see illustration) evenly, a little at a you can’t find these marks, label the camshafts
clockwise until the T 1,4 mark on the timing time, until they are all loose, then lift off the to ensure they are installed in their original
rotor aligns with the static index mark on the bearing caps. Also note the “ L” (bearing cap locations (see illustration). Now loosen both
casing (see illustration). for the left side of the head) and “ R” (bearing intake camshaft sprocket bolts and the bolt
9.6a Label the camshaft sprockets and 9.6b Slide the intake cam through the 9.6c . . . then remove the intake cam
remove the three bolts (arrowed) you can intake sprocket and remove i t . . . sprocket
see
9.6d Lift the chain off the cam sprocket 9.6e Remove the exhaust cam and 9.6f Remove all four spark plug hole
and rotate the cam slightly to get at the sprocket O-rings and discard them; don’t lose the
other bolt four dowels
2*12 Engine, clutch and transmission
9.7 A broom handle makes a good hanger 9.9a Check the lobes for wear - here’s a 9.9b Measure the height of the cams
for the cam chain so the chain won’t fall good example of damage which requires lobes with a micrometer
down into the tunnel replacement or repair
that’s visible on the exhaust cam sprocket. Pull Inspection caps with a clean lint-free cloth, then layII
up on the camshaft chain and carefully guide cams in place in the cylinder head. Eng
Note: Before replacing camshafts or the
the intake camshaft out of the intake sprocket the cam chain with the sprockets,
cylinder head and bearing caps because o f
and remove the sprocket (see illustrations). camshafts don’t turn as the bearing c;
damage, check with local machine shops
Now that you have some chain slack, pull up on tightened.
specializing in motorcycle engine work. In the
the chain so it isn’t engaged with the exhaust 11 Cut eight strips of Plastigauge and layc
case o f the camshafts, it may be possible for
sprocket teeth, rotate the exhaust cam just piece on each bearing journal, parallel!
cam lobes to be welded, reground and
enough to reach that fourth sprocket bolt and the camshaft centerline (see illustration!
hardened, at a cost far lower than that o f a
remove the bolt (see illustration). Now remove Install the bearing caps in their
new camshaft. If the bearing surfaces in the
the exhaust cam and sprocket (see illustration). positions (see illustration 9.21) and in:
cylinder head are damaged, it may be possible
Finally, remove all four spark plug hole O-rings bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly in a criss-c
for them to be bored out to accept bearing
and all four dowels (see illustration). You can pattern until the specified torque is i
inserts. Because o f the high cost o f a new
use these dowels again (it’s a good idea to pull While doing this, don’t let the camsh
cylinder head, we recommend that all options
them out and put them in a small plastic bag), rotate.
be explored before condemning it as trash!
but discard the O-rings and install new ones 12 Now unscrew the bolts a little at a tin
8 inspect the cam bearing surfaces of the
when you reassemble the camshaft assembly. and carefully lift off the bearing caps.
head and the bearing caps. Look for score
Caution: DON’T rotate the crankshaft or
marks, deep scratches and evidence of 13 To determine the oil clearance, comp
the cam chain!
spading (a pitted appearance). the crushed Plastigauge (at its widest po
7 While the camshafts are out, don’t allow the
9 Check the camshaft lobes for heat on each journal to the scale printed on I
chain to go slack - if you do, it will become
discoloration (blue appearance), score marks, Plastigauge container (see illustratio
detached from the gear on the crankshaft and
chipped areas, flat spots and spalling (see Compare the results to this Chapie
may bind between the crankshaft and case,
illustration). Measure the height of each lobe Specifications, noting that the figures diff
which could cause damage to these
with a micrometer (see illustration) and depending on the cylinder number. If the£
components. Wire the chain to another
compare the results to the minimum lobe clearance is greater than specified, meas<
component, or hang it from a wooden dowel
(see illustration), to prevent it from dropping height listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the diameter of the cam bearing journal \
damage is noted or wear is excessive, the micrometer (see illustration). If the joura
down into the cam chain tunnel.
camshaft must be replaced. Also, be sure to diameter is less than the specified
Cover the top of the cylinder check the condition of the followers as replace the camshaft with a new one i
HAYNES described later in this Section.
head with a rag to prevent recheck the clearance. If the clearance iss
HilUT foreign objects from falling 10 Next, check the camshaft bearing oil
clearances. Clean the camshafts, the bearing
too great, replace the cylinder head
into the engine. bearing caps with new parts.
surfaces in the cylinder head and bearing 14 Except in cases of oil starvation, the (
9.11 Lay a strip of Plastigauge across each 9.13a Compare the width of the crushed 9.13b Measure the cam bearing jouma
bearing journal, parallel with the camshaft Plastigauge to the scale printed on the with a micrometer
centerline Plastigauge container
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*13
9.19a The exhaust cam has the letters EX embossed on it (1); the intake cam
sprockets has IN on it (2)
! Sprocket 3 Marked face
compound to the sprocket bolts and tighten 19 Apply engine oil (or a coat of engine
2 Bolt
them to the specified torque when installing assembly lube if new camshafts are being
the camshafts. fitted) to the lobes. Make sure the camshaft
chain wears very little. If the chain has
17 Inspect the front (exhaust side) and rear bearing journals are clean, then lay the
stretched excessively, which makes it difficult
(intake side) cam chain guides (the long black exhaust camshaft, followed by the intake
tomaintain proper tension, replace it with a
rubbing blocks that protect the cam chain camshaft, in the cylinder head - do not mix
new one (see Section 27 for chain stretch
tunnel from the chain) (see Section 27). If the them up (see illustration). Verify that the T
measurement and replacement).
front cam chain guide must be replaced, you’ll 1.4 mark on the timing rotor is still aligned
15 Check the sprockets for wear, cracks and
have to remove the cylinder head (see (see Step 3) and align the marks on the cam
other damage, replacing them if necessary. If
Section 10). If the rear guide must be sprockets exactly with the cylinder head
thesprockets are worn, the cam chain is also
replaced, the cylinder block must be removed surface (see illustration).
worn, and so is the sprocket on the
(see Section 13). If the cam chain itself must 20 Make sure that the timing marks are
crankshaft. If severe wear is apparent, the
be replaced, you’ll have to split the cases (see
entire engine should be disassembled for aligned as described in Step 19, then mesh
Section 22).
inspection. the chain with the camshaft sprockets. Count
16 Replace the camshaft sprockets if Installation the number of chain link pins between the EX
necessary. Install the new sprocket so that its 18 Make sure the bearing surfaces in the mark and the IN mark (see illustration 9.19b).
marked side faces away from the flange to cylinder head and the bearing caps are clean, There should be no slack in the chain between
which it's attached, toward the right of the then apply engine oil to each of them. Install the two sprockets.
engine (see illustration). Apply thread locking four new spark plug hole O-rings. 21 Install the dowels in their locations.
9.19b Make sure the camshaft sprockets are properly aligned before installing and tighten the bolts
2*14 Engine, clutch and transmission
10.14 Remove the old cylinder head gasket and the dowels 10.17 Install the dowels (lower arrows) and fit the gasket with the
(arrow points to right dowel) UP mark to the left of the tunnel.
of debris. Remove all of the washers from detached from the crankshaft. When the head 23 On D models, install the upper coolant
their seats, using a pair of needle-nose pliers. is resting against the cylinder block, wire the pipe (see Chapter 3) and the external oil line
14 Remove the old head gasket and the two cam chain to another component to keep (see illustrations 5.9a and 5.9b). Be sure to
dowel pins from the cylinder block (see tension on it. use new sealing washers and tighten the
illustration). 19 Install the cylinder head-to-block bolts banjo bolts to the torque listed in this
15 Check the cylinder head gasket and the and gradually and evenly tighten them in the Chapter’s Specifications. Then install the
mating surfaces on the cylinder head and specified sequence (see illustration) to the exhaust system (see Chapter 4), the radiator
block for leakage, which could indicate torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. (see Chapter 3), the upper and lower fairings
warpage. Refer to Section 12 and check the Note that the head bolts which are longer than (see Chapter 8) and the carburetors and fuel
flatness of the cylinder head. the others must be installed in the correct tank (see Chapter 4).
16 Clean all traces of old gasket material holes. If you’ re installing the head on a D 24 On all models, change the engine oil (see
fromthe cylinder head and block. Be careful model with the engine in the frame, the two Chapter 1).
not to let any of the gasket material fall into
bolts on each end of the head can be
thecrankcase, the cylinder bores or the water
tightened to the specified torque with a hex 11 Valves/valve seats/valve ^
passages.
wrench. At a point 150 mm (5-29/32 inches) guides - servicing ^
Installation from the working end of the hex wrench,
17 Install the two dowel pins, then lay the apply 32 kg of force to each outer bolt (29.4
new gasket in place on the cylinder block. kg for a used bolt) (see illustration).
1 Because of the complex nature of this job
Make sure the UP mark on the gasket is 20 Install the front camshaft chain guide with
and the special tools and equipment required,
positioned on the left-hand side of the engine its “ UP” mark at the top. Push the guide all
servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the
(see illustration). Never reuse the old gasket the way down (see Section 27).
anddon’t use any type of gasket sealant. 21 Install the camshafts (see Section 9), the
18 Carefully lower the cylinder head over the camshaft chain tensioner (see Section 8) and
studs. It is helpful to have an assistant the valve cover (see Section 7).
support the camshaft chain with a piece of 22 On E models, install the engine (see
wire so it doesn’t fall and become kinked or Section 5).
Lifter (bucket)
Shim DEBURR
Collets (keepers)
Valve spring
retainer
Inner valve spring
Outer valve
spring
Valve spring seat
Valve guide seal
Valve
12.7d If the valve binds in the guide,
deburr the area above the collet (keeper)
12.7c An exploded view of the exhaust (left) and intake (right) valve assemblies groove
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*17
12.14 Check the gasket surface for flatness with a straightedge 12.15 Measuring valve seat width
and feeler gauge in all directions
9 Once the valves have been removed and head will be required. Check the cam bearing Specifications. If it is not within the specified
labeled, pull off the valve stem seals with surfaces for wear and evidence of seizure. range, or if it varies around its circumference,
pliers and discard them (the old seals should Check the camshafts and rocker arms for valve service work is required.
never be reused), then remove the spring wear as well (see Section 9). 16 Clean the valve guides to remove any
seats. 14 Using a precision straightedge and a carbon buildup, then measure the inside
10 Next, clean the cylinder head with solvent feeler gauge, check the head gasket mating diameters of the guides (at both ends and the
and dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will surface for warpage. Lay the straightedge center of the guide) with a small hole gauge
speed the drying process and ensure that all lengthwise, across the head and diagonally and a 0-to-25 mm m icrom eter (see
holes and recessed areas are clean. (corner-to-corner), intersecting the head bolt illustrations). Record the measurements for
11 Clean all of the valve springs, keepers, holes, and try to slip a 0.05 mm (0.002 in) future reference. These measurements, along
retainers and spring seats with solvent and feeler gauge under it, on either side of each with the valve stem diameter measurements,
dry them thoroughly. Do the parts from one combustion chamber (see illustration). If the will enable you to compute the valve stem-to-
valve at a time so that no mixing of parts feeler gauge can be inserted between the guide clearance. This clearance, when
between valves occurs. head and the straightedge, the head is compared to the Specifications, will be one
12 Scrape off any deposits that may have warped and must either be machined or, if factor that will determine the extent of the
formed on the valve, then use a motorized warpage is excessive, replaced with a new valve service work required. The guides are
wire brush to remove deposits from the valve one. measured at the ends and at the center to
heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves 15 Examine the valve seats in each of the determine if they are worn in a bell-mouth
donot get mixed up. com bustion chambers. If they are pitted, pattern (more wear at the ends). If they are,
cracked or burned, the head will require valve guide replacement is an absolute must.
Inspection service that is beyond the scope of the home 17 Carefully inspect each valve face for
13 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks mechanic. Measure the valve seat width (see cracks, pits and burned spots. Check the
andother damage. If cracks are found, a new illustration) and compare it to this Chapter’s valve stem and the keeper groove area for
12.16a Measure the valve guide inside diameter with a hole 12.16b . then measure the gauge with a micrometer
g auge . . .
2*18 Engine, clutch and transmission
12.17 Check the valve face (A), stem (B) and keeper/collet groove 12.18a Measuring valve stem diameter
(C) for wear and damage
cracks (see illustration). Rotate the valve and valve stem-to-guide clearance is obtained. If Specifications, replace the valve (;
check for any obvious indication that it is the stem -to-guide clearance is greater than illustration).
bent. Check the end of the stem for pitting listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the 19 Check the end of each valve spring
and excessive wear and make sure the bevel guides and valves will have to be replaced wear and pitting. Measure the free length(i
is the specified width. The presence of any of with new ones. Also check the valve stem for illustration) and compare it to this Chapti
the above conditions indicates the need for bending. Set the valve in a V-block with a dial Specifications. Any springs that are shoi
valve servicing. indicator touching the middle of the stem (see than specified have sagged and should nol
18 Measure the valve stem diameter (see illustration). Rotate the valve and note the reused. Stand the spring on a flat surface I
illustration). By subtracting the stem reading on the gauge. If the stem runout check it for squareness (see illustration).
diameter from the valve guide diameter, the exceeds the value listed in this Chapter’s 20 Check the spring retainers and keep
12.18b Check the valve stem for bends with a V-block (or V-blocks, as shown here) and 12.18c Measuring valve head margin
a dial indicator thickness
12.19a Measuring the free length of the valve springs 12.19b Checking the valve springs for squareness
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*19
12.23 Apply the lapping compound very sparingly, in small dabs, 12.24a After lapping, the valve face should exhibit a uniform,
to the valve face only unbroken contact pattern (arrowed). . .
lor obvious wear and cracks. Any your hands. Use a back-and-forth motion them into its guide. Next, install the springs
questionable parts should not be reused, as rather than a circular motion (see and retainers, compress the springs and
extensive damage will occur in the event of illustration). Lift the valve off the seat and install the keepers. Note: Install the springs
failure during engine operation. turn it at regular intervals to distribute the with the tightly wound coils at the bottom
21 If the inspection indicates that no service lapping compound properly. Continue the (next to the spring seat). When compressing
work is required, the valve components can lapping procedure until the valve face the springs with the valve spring compressor,
bereinstalled in the head. and seat contact area is of uniform width depress them only as far as is absolutely
and unbroken around the entire necessary to slip the keepers into place. Apply
Reassembly circum ference of the valve face and seat a small amount o f grease to the keepers (see
22 Before installing the valves in the head, (see illustrations). illustration) to help hold them in place as the
they should be lapped to ensure a positive 25 Carefully remove the valve from the guide pressure is released from the springs. Make
seal between the valves and seats. This and wipe off all traces of lapping compound. certain that the keepers are securely locked in
procedure requires fine valve lapping Use solvent to clean the valve and wipe the their retaining grooves.
compound (available at auto parts stores) and seat area thoroughly with a solvent soaked 28 Support the cylinder head on blocks so
avalve lapping tool. If a lapping tool is not cloth. Repeat the procedure for the remaining the valves can’t contact the workbench top,
available, a piece of rubber or plastic hose valves. then very gently tap each of the valve stems
can be slipped over the valve stem (after the 26 Lay the spring seats in place in the with a soft-faced hammer. This will help seat
wive has been installed in the guide) and cylinder head, then install new valve stem the keepers in their grooves.
usedto turn the valve. seals on each of the guides (see illustration). 29 Once all of the valves have been installed
23 Apply a small amount of fine lapping Use an appropriate size deep socket to push in the head, check for proper valve sealing by
compound to the valve face (see illustration), the seals into place until they are properly pouring a small amount of solvent into each of
then slip the valve into the guide. Note: Make seated. Don’t twist or cock them, or they will the valve ports. If the solvent leaks past the
sure the valve is installed in the correct guide not seal properly against the valve stems. valve(s) into the com bustion chamber area,
and be careful not to get any lapping Also, don't remove them again or they will be disassemble the valve(s) and repeat the
compound on the valve stem. damaged. lapping procedure, then reinstall the valve(s)
24 Attach the lapping tool (or hose) to the 27 Coat the valve stems with assembly lube and repeat the check. Repeat the procedure
valveand rotate the tool between the palms of or moly-based grease, then install one of until a satisfactory seal is obtained.
12.24b . . . and the seat should be the 12.26 Using the handle of a hammer, an 12.27 A dab of grease will hold the
specified width (arrowed) with a smooth, extension and a small socket, tap on the keepers/collets in place while the spring
unbroken appearance valve guide seals compressor is released
2*20 Engine, clutch and transmission
13.3a Pry between a mounting bolt boss on the crankcase and a 13.3b If the cylinder block is stuck, use a rubber mallet
boss for the lower water pipe it loose
13.3c To remove the cylinder block, lift it straight up off the the front chain guide, pull it straight up
pistons
tion 7), the camshaft chain tensioner (see between the gasket mating surfaces!
13 Cylinder block - removal, ^ Section 8), the camshafts (see Section 9) and block and the crankcase. If it's stuck, I
inspection and installation ^ the cylinder head (see Section 10). Make sure around its perimeter with a soft-fa
the crankshaft is positioned at Top Dead hammer (see illustration). Lift the cylin
Center (TDC) for cylinders 1 and 4. block straight up to remove it (a
2 Remove the lower water pipe from the illustration).
Removal cylinder block (see Chapter 3). 4 Lift out the camshaft chain front guide(sj
1 On E models, remove the engine. On all 3 Pry the cylinder block loose as shown (see illustration).
models, remove the valve cover (see Sec illustration). Do NOT try to insert the prybar 5 Remove the dowel pins from the ma
surface of the crankcase (see illustration].£
careful not to let these drop into the en
Stuff rags around the pistons and removefi
gasket and all traces of old gasket mat(
from the surfaces of the cylinder block)
the cylinder head.
Inspection
Caution: Don’t attempt to separate the
liners from the cylinder block.
6 Check the cylinder walls carefully
scratches and score marks.
7 Using the appropriate precision mea
tools, check each cylinder’s diameter at t
13.5 Remove the positioning dowels from 13.7 Measure the diameter 10 mm and specified distances from the top of the cylin
the crankcase 60 mm from the top, in front-to-rear and parallel to the crankshaft axis (see illus
side-to-side directions Next, measure each cylinder’s diameter atl
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*21
13.12 Use pieces of wire to hold the pistons in position 13.13 Install the new base gasket with the “UP” to the left of the
cam chain tunnel
same two locations across the crankshaft axis. wall. If you do not have the tools, or do not 12 Slowly rotate the crankshaft until all of the
Compare the results to this Chapter's desire to perform the honing operation, a pistons are at the same level. Slide lengths of
Specifications. If the cylinder walls are tapered, dealer service department or motorcycle repair welding rod or pieces of a straightened-out
out-of-round, worn beyond the specified limits, shop will generally do it for a reasonable fee. coat hanger under the pistons, on both sides
or badly scuffed or scored, have them rebored 10 Next, the cylinders must be thoroughly of the connecting rods (see illustration). This
andhoned by a dealer service department or a washed with warm soapy water to remove all will help keep the pistons level as the cylinder
motorcycle repair shop. If a rebore is done, traces of the abrasive grit produced during the block is lowered onto them.
oversize pistons and rings will be required as honing operation. Be sure to run a brush 13 Install the dowel pins, then lower a new
well. Note: Kawasaki supplies pistons in only through the bolt holes and flush them with cylinder base gasket over the studs, with the
oneoversize - +0.5 mm (+0.020 inch). running water. After rinsing, dry the cylinders UP mark on the left-hand side of the engine
8 As an alternative, if the precision measuring thoroughly and apply a coat of light, rust- (see illustration).
tools are not available, a dealer service preventative oil to all machined surfaces. 14 Attach four piston ring compressors to the
department or motorcycle repair shop will pistons and compress the piston rings (see
make the measurements and offer advice Installation illustration). Large hose clamps can be
concerning servicing of the cylinders. If they 11 Lubricate the cylinder bores with plenty of used instead - just make sure they don’t
are in reasonably good condition and not clean engine oil. Apply a thin film of moly- scratch the pistons, and don’t tighten them
worn to the outside of the limits, and if the based grease to the piston skirts. too much.
piston-to-cylinder clearances can be
maintained properly (see Section 14), then the
cylinders do not have to be rebored; honing is
all that is necessary.
9 To perform the honing operation you will
need the proper size flexible hone with fine
stones, or a “bottle brush” type hone, plenty of
light oil or honing oil, some shop towels and an
electric drill motor. Hold the cylinder block in a
visa(cushioned with soft jaws or wood blocks)
when performing the honing operation. Mount
the hone in the drill motor, compress the
stones and slip the hone into the cylinder.
Lubricate the cylinder thoroughly, turn on the
drill and move the hone up and down in the
cylinder at a pace which will produce a fine
crosshatch pattern on the cylinder wall with
the crosshatch lines intersecting at
approximately a 60° angle. Be sure to use
plenty of lubricant and do not take off any
more material than is absolutely necessary to
produce the desired effect. Do not withdraw
I the hone from the cylinder while it is running.
Instead, shut off the drill and continue moving
13.14 To install the cylinder block, squeeze the piston rings with four piston ring
the hone up and down in the cylinder until it
comes to a complete stop, then compress the compressors
stones and withdraw the hone. Wipe the oil out 1 Piston base (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-1336)
of the cylinder and repeat the procedure on 2 Piston ring compressor assembly (Kawasaki tool no. 5 7001-1094)
I the remaining cylinder. Remember, do not 3 Chamfer on piston compressor tool faces up
remove too much material from the cylinder 4 Front of engine (tools must be installed from rear)
2*22 Engine, clutch and transmission
14.3a Scribe or mark the number of each 14.3b Pry the piston pin circlip loose with 14.3c Pull out the piston pin circlip wit
piston into the piston crown a small screwdriver pair of needle-nose pliers
15 Install the cylinder block over the studs 16 Remove the piston ring compressors or Removal
and carefully lower it down until the piston hose clamps, being careful not to scratch the
3 Using a sharp scribe, scratch the numb
crowns fit into the cylinder liners. While doing pistons. Remove the rods from under the
each piston into its crown (see illustratiijj
this, pull the camshaft chain up, using a pistons. Each piston should also have an an
hooked tool or a piece of coat hanger. Push 17 Install the cam chain front guide (see pointing toward the front of the engine. Iff
down on the cylinder block, making sure the Section 27).
scribe an arrow into the piston crown I
pistons don’t get cocked sideways, until the 18 Install the cylinder head (see Section 10),
removal. Support the first piston and pryc
bottom of the cylinder liners slide down past the camshafts (see Section 9), the camshaft
the circlip with a small screwdriver
the piston rings. A wood or plastic hammer chain tensioner (see Section 8) and the valve
illustration). Grasp the circlip with ne
handle can be used to gently tap the block cover (see Section 7).
nose pliers and remove it from the gro
down, but don’t use too much force or the 19 On E models, install the engine (see
(see illustration).
pistons will be damaged. Section 5).
4 Push out the piston pin far enough tot
hold of it and pull it out of the piston I
illustration). If the pin won’t come out, i
special piston pin removal tool (Kawasaki
14 Pistons - removal, inspection ^ no. 57001-910). You may have to deburrt!
and installation Sjk area around the groove to enable the pin
slide out (use a triangular file for
procedure). Repeat the procedure for I
1 The pistons are attached to the connecting remaining pistons.
rods with piston pins that are a slip fit in the
pistons and rods.
Inspection
2 Before removing the pistons from the rods, 5 Before the inspection process can]
stuff a clean shop towel into each crankcase carried out, the pistons must be cleane
hole, around the connecting rods. This the old piston rings removed.
will prevent the circlips from falling into 6 Using a piston ring installation to
14.4a Push the piston pin through far enough the crankcase if they are inadvertently carefully remove the rings from the pisti
to grasp it and pull it out of the piston dropped. (see illustration). Do not nick or gouget
pistons in the process.
7 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top
HAYNES the pistons. A hand-held wire brush or apie
of fine emery cloth can be used once!
ms majority of the depositsTiave been sera
away. Do not, under any circumstances, us
The piston pins should come out with hand pressure - if they don’t, this removal tool
can be fabricated from readily available parts
1 Bolt 5 Piston A Large enough for piston
2 Washer 6 Washer (B) pin to fit inside
3 Pipe (A) 7 Nut (B) B Small enough to fit
4 Padding (A) through piston pin bore 14.6 Remove the piston rings with a rin
removal and installation tool
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*23
___ _____________________
15.3 Measure the piston ring end gap with a feeler gauge 15.5 Clamp a file in a vise and file the ring ends (from the ou
in only) to enlarge the gap slightly
15.11b Don’t confuse the top ring with the second (middle) ring
15.11a Install the second (middle) ring into
the middle groove in the piston 1 Top ring 2 Middle (second) ring 3 “R” identification mark
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*25
16 Oil pan - %
removal and installation
S 15.14 Ring gap positioning details
1 Top ring 3 Oil ring side rails 5 Arrowhead mark (must
Removal
2 Second (middle ring) 4 Oil ring expander point toward front of
Note: The oil pan can be removed with the
engine)
enginein the frame.
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. Be sure to wash the screen before installing Chapter’s Specifications, using a criss-cross
2 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). the pick-up. pattern.
3 Remove the exhaust system (see 8 Position a new gasket on the oil pan. A thin 9 The remainder of installation is the reverse
Chapter 4). film of RTV sealant can be used to hold the of removal. Install a new filter and fill the
4 Remove the banjo bolts that attach the oil gasket in place. Install the oil pan and bolts, crankcase with oil (see Chapter 1), then run
cooler lines to the oil pan (see Chapter 3). tightening the bolts to the torque listed in this the engine and check for leaks.
5 Remove the oil pan bolts (s e e illu s tr a tio n )
anddetach the pan from the crankcase.
6 Remove all traces of old gasket material
fromthe mating surfaces of the oil pan and
crankcase.
Installation
7 Inspect the screen on the oil pick-up tube
(see illustration). The presence of chunks of
metal could indicate serious wear or damage
In the bottom end or gearbox (pieces of
“casting flash” and gasket look worse than
they are; they’re typical on a new engine).
Inspect the O-rings on the pick-up tube and
the oil pipe (see illu s t r a t io n s ) . If they’re 16.5 To remove the oil pan, remove these 16.7a Inspect the screen on the oil pick-up
cracked, torn or deteriorated, replace them. bolts (arrowed) tube for signs of engine damage
16.7b To remove the oil pick-up tube, simply pull it straight off. 16.7c To remove the oil pipe, simply pull it straight off. Inspect
Inspect the O-ring (arrowed) the O-rings (arrowed)
2»26 Engine, clutch and transmission
17.9 Remove the oil pum p gear snap-ring 17.10 Remove the oil pum p gear
17.11 Remove the oil pum p gear drive pin 17.12 To remove the oil pum p cover, remove these three!
(arrowed)
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*27
17.13 Remove the oil pump outer rotors 17.14a Remove the oil pump shaft (A) and 17.14b Don’t lose this pin that locks the
(A) and the oil pump housing (B) inner rotors (B); don’t lose the inner rotors to the shaft
dowel pins (C)
13 Remove the oil pump outer rotors and the the oil pan (see Section 16) and make sure the b) When installing the inner rotors and shaft,
oil pump housing (see illustration). pick-up screen isn’t clogged (see illustration the projection on the end o f the shaft
14 Remove the oil pump shaft, inner rotors 16.7a). must engage the notch in the water pump
andthe roll pin (see illustrations). shaft (see Chapter 3).
Installation c) Don't forget to install the roll pin for the
Inspection 16 Installation is basically the reverse of outer rotors before installing the pump
15 Wash all the components in solvent, then removal (see illustration). However, there are cover.
drythem off. Check the pump cover, housing, a few things that must be done a certain way: d) Before installing the pump cover, pack
rotors and shaft for scoring and wear. a) Don't forget to install the roll pin before the cavities between the rotors with
Kawasaki doesn’t publish clearance installing the inner rotors. When installing petroleum jelly to ensure that the pump
Specifications, so if any damage or uneven or the shaft and inner rotors, the roll pin develops suction quickly and begins oil
excessive wear is evident, replace the pump. must be horizontal, or it will fall out (if the circulation as soon as the engine is
Ifyou're rebuilding the engine, it’s a good idea inner rotor roll pin is horizontal, the outer started.
toinstall a new oil pump anyway. Finally, if roll pin will also be horizontal - they're in e) Tighten the pump cover screws securely.
yousee any sign of wear, be sure to remove the same plane). f) When installing the pump gear, the gear
hub must face in (toward the engine). And
don’t forget the gear drive pin!
g) If the pump gear circlip has lost its tensile
“memory" (its ability to spring back to its
original shape), replace i t Using a weak
circlip could cause serious damage to the
engine if the gear comes off.
Rem oval
1 Remove the oil pan (see Section 16).
2 There are two oil pressure relief valves: The
valve screwed into the pan (see illustration)
is for the oil cooler and transmission; the valve
1 Snap-ring 5 Oil pump cover 9 Dowel pin (2) for oil pump
2 Gear (hub must face in 6 Outer rotors housing and cover
during reassembly) 7 Roll pin for outer 10 Inner rotors
3 Roll pin for gear rotors 11 Roll pin for inner rotors 18.2a The oil pressure relief valve
4 Oil pump cover retaining 8 Oil pump housing 12 Shaft (arrowed) for the oil cooler and
screw (2) transmission is screwed to the oil pan
2*28 Engine, clutch and transmission
18.2b The oil pressure relief valve (arrowed) fo r the main oil 19.5 Align the slots in the lock wheel and adjuster and pull <
passage is screw ed into the crank web cable
screwed into the crank web (see illustration) compound to the threads of the valve, install it ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks' at the beginnin
is for the main oil passage. Both of these into the crank web or oil pan, and tighten it to this Manual) and turn the threaded adjusts
valves are normally trouble-free; their only the torque listed in this C hapter’s the way in until it stops.
function is to prevent excessive oil pressure Specifications. 5 Align the slots in both the lock wheel i
(which can cause seals to leak) in the event an 6 The remainder of installation is the reverse the adjuster so that they’re both fa
oil passage becomes clogged. However, if of removal. forward and pull out the cable
you’re installing a new oil pan, or planning to illustration).
soak the engine bottom end or pan in some 6 To disconnect the clutch cable fromj
sort of cleaning solution, the relief valve(s) clutch lever, align the cable with the slot In
must be removed. When installing either relief 19 Clutch cable - replacement bottom of the lever and disengage the <
valve, be sure to coat the threads with a non end from the lever (see illustration).
locking thread agent and tighten it to the 7 Release the other end of the cable fromI
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. release lever (see illustration).
Inspection 1 Place the bike on its centerstand. 8 Before removing the cable from the I
3 Clean the valve with solvent and dry it, 2 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). tape the lower end of the new cable I
using compressed air if available. 3 To put some slack in the cable, pull back upper end of the old cable. Slowly pu
4 Using a wood or plastic tool, depress the the dust boot and fully loosen the adjuster lower end of the old cable out, guidin
steel ball inside the valve and see if it moves nuts at the bracket just in front of the clutch new cable down into position. Using
smoothly. Make sure it returns to its seat lever on the right side of the engine (see method will ensure the cable is rou
completely. If it doesn't, replace it with a new illu stra tio n in ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the correctly.
one (don’t attempt to disassemble and repair it). beginning of this Manual). 9 Lubricate the cable (see Chapter 1).
4 To put some more slack in the cable, 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Installation loosen the knurled lock wheel at the clutch 11 Adjust the cable (see ‘Daily (pre-i
5 Apply a non-hardening thread locking lever on the handlebar (see illu s tra tio n in checks’ at the beginning of this Manual).
19.6 To disconnect the cable from the lever, pull it out o f the slot, 19.7 To disconnect the cable from the lever, push the lever
then slide the end out of the lever forw ard and disengage the cable
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*29
20.4 To remove the clutch cover, remove 20.5 Remove the bolts and springs 20.6 Remove the clutch friction and steel
these bolts (arrowed) (arrowed), then remove the spring plate plates
and pushrod {center arrow)
20.7a Hold th e c lu t c h h u b w it h a c lu tc h
holder to o l a n d b r e a k th e c lu t c h h u b n u t
lo o s e
Note: The clutch can be removed with the 20.7b Homemade version of the Kawasaki clutch holding tool
engine in the frame.
Removal 1243, or a suitable equivalent) to prevent the from some steel strap, bent at the ends and
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. Remove the clutch housing from turning (see illustration), bolted together in the middle (see
lower fairing (see Chapter 8). An alternative to this tool can be fabricated illustration).
2 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Completely loosen the rear adjustment nuts
on the clutch cable at its bracket on the clutch TOOL
cover. Pull the cable out of the bracket, then
detach the cable end from the lever (see
Section 19).
4 Remove the clutch cover bolts (s e e
illustration) and take off the cover. If the
cover is stuck, tap around its perimeter with a
soft-face hammer.
5 Remove the clutch springs and bolts (s e e
illustration). To prevent the assembly from
turning, thread one of the cover mounting
bolts into the case and wedge a screwdriver
between the bolt and the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch spring plate, bearing and Another way to hold the clutch is to drill holes in a friction plate and a steel plate and
pushrod. bolt them together as they would be installed. Slip the bolted plates into their
6 Remove the friction and steel plates from installed positions; the clutch hub will be locked to the clutch housing. Shift the
the clutch housing (see illu s tr a tio n ) . transmission into a low gear and have an assistant apply and hold the rear brake.
7 Remove the clutch hub nut, using a Unscrew the nut and remove it
special holding tool (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-
2*30 Engine, clutch and transmission
20.8a Remove the thrust washer 20.8b Remove the clutch hub
20.8c Remove the large washer 20.8d To separate the sleeve from the housing, install a couplei
bolts as shown, screw them in and pull it out
20.8e Remove the clutch housing 20.8f Remove the large washer
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*31
20.8g Remove the small washer 20.9 Inspect the clutch hub splines (arrowed) for wear and
distortion
Inspection
9 Examine the splines on both the inside and
the outside of the clutch hub (see
illustration). If any wear is evident, replace
thehub with a new one.
10 Measure the free length of the clutch
springs (see illustration) and compare the
results to this Chapter’s Specifications. If the
springs have sagged, or if cracks are noted,
replace them with new ones as a set.
20.10 Measure the clutch spring free 20.11 Measure the thickness of the friction
11 If the lining material of the friction plates
length plates
smells burnt or if it is glazed, new parts are
required. If the metal clutch plates are scored glass) and check for warpage by trying to slip They can be cleaned up with a file if the
or discolored, they must be replaced with new a 0.3 mm (0.012-inch) feeler gauge between deformation is not severe.
ones. Measure the thickness of each friction the flat surface and the plate (see 14 Check the edges of the slots in the clutch
plate (see illustration) and compare the illustration). Do this at several places around housing for indentations made by the friction
results to this Chapter’s Specifications. the plate’s circumference. If the feeler gauge plate tabs (see illustration). If the
Replace with new parts any friction plates that can be slipped under the plate, it is warped indentations are deep they can prevent clutch
arenear the wear limit. and should be replaced with a new one. release, so the housing should be replaced
12 Lay the metal plates, one at a time, on a 13 Check the tabs on the friction plates for with a new one. If the indentations can be
perfectly flat surface (such as a piece of plate excessive wear and mushroomed edges. removed easily with a file, the life of the
20.12 Check plates for warpage by trying to slide a feeler gauge 20.14 Inspect the edges of the slots and the bushing surface for
between each plate and a flat surface heavy wear (arrowed)
2*32 Engine, clutch and transmission
housing can be prolonged to an extent. Also, 16 Clean all traces of old gasket material ever need replacement; if either one is wo
check the primary gear teeth for cracks, chips from the clutch cover. If the seal for the oil damaged, take the cover to an automoti
and excessive wear. If the gear is worn or level window (see illustration) has been motorcycle machine shop and have th
damaged, the clutch housing must be leaking, pry out the old seal and install a new pressed out and new ones installed. FinallyJ
replaced with a new one. Check the bearing one. If the release shaft seal has been leaking, you’re planning to install a new cover, re
for score marks, scratches and excessive pull out the release shaft, pry out the seal and the noise damper from the old covers
wear. drive in a new seal with a hammer and a small install it on the new cover.
15 Check the bearing journal on the socket with an outside diameter slightly
transmission mainshaft for score marks, heat smaller than that of the seal. While the release Installation
discoloration and evidence of excessive wear. shaft is removed, inspect the two small needle 17 Installation is basically the reven
Check the clutch spring plate for wear and bearings that support the shaft at each end. removal (see illustration 20.16), with I
damage. It’s unlikely that either of these bearings will following points:
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*33
22.4c Upper crankcase bolts (arrowed) 22.5a Separate the crankcase halves 22.5b If the crankcase halves are!
together, lever them apart with a prybarc
large screwdriver
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*35
Caution: Do NOT try to stick a prybar 9 Pour some engine oil over the transmission
between the gasket mating surfaces of the gears, the crankshaft main bearings and the
casehalves or you will damage their shift drum. Don’t get any oil on the crankcase
sealing ability. mating surface.
8 Remove the crankshaft (see Section 25), 10 Apply a thin, even bead of Kawasaki Bond
shift drum and forks (see Section 29) and liquid gasket (part no. 92104-1003) to the
transmission shafts (see Section 28). indicated areas of the crankcase mating
Reassembly surfaces (see illustration). Also apply RTV
sealant to the areas near the ends of the
7 Remove all traces of sealant from the
crankshaft seal areas (lay it over the Kawasaki
crankcase mating surfaces. Be careful not to
Bond).
letany old sealant fall into the case.
8 Make sure the four dowel pins are in place Caution: Don’t apply an excessive amount
In their holes in the mating surfaces of the of either type of sealant, as it will ooze out
crankcase halves - two in the upper half, two when the case halves are assembled and 22.10 Apply Kawasaki Bond liquid gasket
inthe lower half (see illustration). may obstruct oil passages. to the shaded areas of the mating surfaces
2*36 Engine, clutch and transmission
22.12 Make sure the oil return hose (1) is routed properly through 22.13 Bolt tightening sequence for bolts in lower crankcase half
the upper crankcase half (2) and through its hole (3) in the lower (do the larger, 8 mm, bolts first)
crankcase half (4)
11 Check the position of the shift drum - 14 In two steps, tighten the larger (8 mm) shift lever on the shift shaft and, while turning
make sure it’s in the neutral position (see bolts, in the sequence embossed on the case the output shaft, shift the transmission
Section 29). (also indicated in illustration 22.13) to the through the gears, first through sixth, then
12 Carefully place the upper crankcase half torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. back to first. If the transmission doesn't shift
onto the lower crankcase half. While doing Then tighten the smaller (6 mm) bolts to the properly, the case will have to be separated
this, make sure the shift forks fit into their gear torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. again to correct the problem. Also make surfc
grooves, and the oil return hose is properly 15 Turn the case over and install the upper the crankshaft turns freely.
routed through its hole in the lower crankcase crankcase half bolts (see illustration) until 17 Apply high temperature grease to the lipsof
half (see illustration). they’re all snug. Then tighten them evenly and the output shaft oil seal, press the seal into its
13 Install the bolts in the lower crankcase gradually, in a criss-cross pattern, to the bore in the crankcase until the face of the seal is
half (see illustration) and tighten them so torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. flush with the case halves (see illustration).
they are just snug. The two longer 8 mm bolts 16 Turn the main drive shaft and the output 18 The remainder of installation is the reverse
go into the number 1 and number 3 holes. shaft to make sure they turn freely. Install the of removal.
22.15 Tighten the bolts evenly and gradually in a criss-cross 22.17 Install the seal with a socket with an outer diameter sligl
pattern to the specified torque smaller than the diameter of the seal
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*37
oil and from there into the bearings. Metal 7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine
23 Crankcase components - ^ chips from machining operations and normal assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
inspection and servicing S engine wear are often present. Abrasives are Tight fitting bearings which leave insufficient
sometimes left in engine components after bearing oil clearances result in oil starvation.
reconditioning operations such as cylinder Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a
1After the crankcases have been separated honing, especially when parts are not bearing insert result in high spots on the
andthe crankshaft, shift drum and forks and thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning bearing which lead to failure.
transmission components removed, the methods. Whatever the source, these foreign 8 To avoid bearing problems, clean all parts
crankcases should be cleaned thoroughly objects often end up imbedded in the soft thoroughly before reassembly, double check all
with new solvent and dried with compressed bearing material and are easily recognized. bearing clearance measurements and lubricate
air. All oil passages should be blown out with Large particles will not imbed in the bearing the new bearings with engine assembly lube or
compressed air and all traces of old gasket and will score or gouge the bearing and moly-based grease during installation.
sealant should be removed from the mating journal. The best prevention for this cause of
surfaces. bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly
Caution: Be very careful not to nick or and keep everything spotlessly clean during 25 Crankshaft and main ^
gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or engine reassembly. Frequent and regular oil bearings - removal, inspection 5
leaks will result - refer to Tools and W and filter changes are also recommended. and installation ^
Checkboth crankcase sections very 5 Lack of lubrication or lubrication
carefully for cracks and other damage. breakdown has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
Removal
2 Check the ball and needle bearings in the
case. If they don’t turn smoothly, drive them overloading (which squeezes the oil from the 1 Before removing the crankshaft check the
out with a bearing driver or a socket having an bearing face) and oil leakage or throw off endplay. This can be done with a dial indicator
outside diameter slightly smaller than that of (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil mounted in-line with the crankshaft, or feeler
thebearing. Before installing them, allow them pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to gauges inserted between the no. 2 crankcase
10sit inthe freezer overnight, and about fifteen- lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages main journal (see illustration). Compare your
minutes before installation, place the case half will also starve a bearing and destroy it. When findings with this Chapter’s Specifications. If
inan oven, set to about 200-degrees F, and lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing the endplay is excessive, the case halves
allow it to heat up. The bearings are an failure, the bearing material is wiped or must be replaced. Crankshaft removal is a
interference fit, and this will ease installation. extruded from the steel backing of the simple matter of lifting it out of place once the
Warning: Before heating the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the crankcase has been separated and the starter
25.8 Lay the Plastigauge strips (arrowed) 25.10 Measure the w idth of the crushed 25.11 Location of the bearing insert col
on the journals, parallel to the crankshaft Plastigauge code
centerline
and lower the crankshaft into the upper half of measure the diameter of the cranK
the case. Cut five pieces of Plastigauge and journals with a micrometer (see illustra
lay them on the crankshaft main journals, and compare your findings with this Chapte
parallel with journal axis (see illustration). Specifications. Also, by measuring
9 Very carefully, guide the lower case half diameter at a number of points around (
down onto the upper case half. Install the journal’s circumference, you’ll be ableI
large (8 mm) bolts and tighten them, using the determine whether or not the journal is ou
recommended sequence, to the torque listed round. Take the measurement at each em
in this Chapter’s Specifications (see the journal, near the crank throu
Section 22). Don’t rotate the crankshaft! determine if the journal is tapered.
10 Now, remove the bolts and carefully lift 14 If any crank journal has worn downp
the lower case half off. Compare the width of the service limit, replace the crankshaft.
the crushed Plastigauge on each journal to 15 If the diameters of the journals aren't!
25.13 Measure the diameter of each the scale printed on the Plastigauge envelope than the service limit but differ from
crankshaft journal to obtain the main bearing oil clearance (see original markings on the crankshaft
illustration). Write down your findings, then illustration), apply new marks with a ha
5 Check the camshaft chain gear and the
remove all traces of Plastigauge from the and punch.
primary chain gear on the crankshaft for
journals, using your fingernail or the edge of a a) If the journal measures between 31.98
chipped teeth and other wear. If any
credit card. 31.992 mm (1.2602 to 1.2605 inches)
undesirable conditions are found, replace the
11 If the oil clearance falls into the specified don’t make any marks on the crank(thesi^
crankshaft. Check the chains as described in
range, no bearing replacement is required shouldn’t be any marks there, anywa;
Section 27.
6 Check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks (provided they are in good shape). If the b) If the journal measures between 31.9
and other damage. It should be magnafluxed clearance is between 0.038 mm (0.0015 inch) 32.000 mm (1.2605 to 1.2608 inchesj,
to reveal hidden cracks - a dealer service and the 0.070 mm (0.0028 inch) service limit, make a “ 1" mark on the crank in thee
department or motorcycle machine shop will and the bearings are excessively worn, replace indicated (if it's not already there).
handle the procedure. the old bearing inserts with new inserts that 16 Remove the main bearing inserts i
7 Set the crankshaft on V-blocks and check have blue paint marks (see illustration), then assemble the case halves (see Section!
the runout with a dial indicator touching the check the oil clearance once again. Always Using a telescoping gauge and a micron
center main journal, comparing your findings replace all of the inserts at the same time. measure the diameters of the main be
with this Chapter’s Specifications. If the 12 If the bearings are not excessively worn, bores, then compare the measurements«
runout exceeds the limit, replace the crank. the clearance can slightly exceed the the marks on the upper case half
standard clearance, as long as it isn’t greater illustration).
Main bearing selection than the maximum clearance or less than the a) If the bores measure between 36.000 to
8 To check the main bearing oil clearance, minimum clearance. 36.008 mm (1.4184 to 1.4187-inches),
clean off the bearing inserts (and reinstall 13 If the clearance is greater than the service there should be a “0" mark in the
them, if they’ve been removed from the case) limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, indicated areas.
25.15 Crankshaft main journal size marking locations (#1 mark or 25.16 . . . crankcase markings to determine insert size
no mark); use in conjunction with . . .
Engine, clutch and transmission 2»39
!)J If the bores measure between 36.009 to then install the bearing inserts in their webs in Specifications, that rod will have to be
36.016 mm (1.4187 to 1.4190-inches), the case (see illu stratio n). The bearing replaced with a new one.
there shouldn't be any marks in the inserts for all except the two middle journals 2 Using a center punch, mark the position of
Indicated areas. have oil grooves. When installing the each rod and cap, relative to its position on
17 Using the marks on the crank and the bearings, use your hands only - don’t tap the crankshaft (see illustration).
markson the case, determine the bearing sizes them into place with a hammer. 3 Unscrew the bearing cap nuts, separate the
required by referring to the accompanying 19 Lubricate the bearing inserts with engine cap from the rod, then detach the rod from
I selection chart (see illustration). assembly lube or moly-based grease. the crankshaft. If the cap is stuck, tap on the
20 Install the connecting rods, if they were ends of the rod bolts with a soft face hammer
Installation removed (see Section 26). to free them.
18 Separate the case halves once again. 21 Loop the camshaft chain over the 4 Separate the bearing inserts from the rods
Clean the bearing saddles in the case halves, crankshaft sprocket. and caps, keeping them in order so they can
22 Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. be reinstalled in their original locations. Wash
23 Assemble the case halves (see the parts in solvent and dry them with
Section 22) and make sure the crankshaft and compressed air, if available.
the transmission shafts turn freely.
Inspection
5 Check the connecting rods for cracks and
26 Connecting rods and ^ other obvious damage. Lubricate the piston
bearings - removal, inspection ^ pin for each rod, install it in the proper rod and
and installation ^ check for play (see illustration). If it is loose,
replace the connecting rod and/or the pin.
6 Refer to Section 24 and examine the
Removal connecting rod bearing inserts. If they are
1 Before removing the connecting rods from scored, badly scuffed or appear to have been
the crankshaft, measure the side clearance of seized, new bearings must be installed.
25.18 Make sure the tabs on the bearing each rod with a feeler gauge (see Always replace the bearings in the connecting
Inserts fit into the notches in the crank illu stratio n). If the clearance on any rod is rods as a set. If they are badly damaged,
web greater than that listed in this Chapter’s check the corresponding crankshaft journal.
26.1 Check the connecting rod side 26.2 Using a hammer and punch, make 26.5 Check the piston pin and connecting
clearance with a feeler gauge matching marks in the connecting rod and rod bore fo r excessive wear by rocking the
its cap pin back-and-forth
2*40 Engine, clutch and transmission
26.20a . . . the mark (or no mark) on the connecting rod (arrowed) 26.20b Measure the diameter of the connecting rod with i
to determine insert size telescoping gauge, then measure the gauge
The letter is a weight grade mark
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*41
26.21 Connecting rod bearing insert selection table 27.6 To remove the rear cam chain guide, remove these two Allen
bolts from the crank web
Installation 26 Turn the rods on the crankshaft. If any of measure the length of twenty links, pin-to-pin
23 Wipe off the bearing inserts and them feel tight, tap on the bottom of the (see illustration). Compare your findings to
Ronnecting rods and caps. Install the inserts connecting rod caps with a hammer - this the length listed in this Chapter’s
itfntothe rods and caps, using your hands only, should relieve stress and free them up. If it Specifications.
■taking sure the tabs on the inserts engage doesn’t, recheck the bearing clearance. 8 Also check the chain for binding and
with the notches in the rods and caps. When 27 As a final step, recheck the connecting obvious damage.
fill theinserts are installed, lubricate them with rod side clearances (see Step 1). If the 9 If the twenty-link length is not as specified,
engine assembly lube or moly-based grease. clearances aren’t correct, find out why before or there is visible damage, replace the chain.
proceeding with engine assembly.
Don't get any lubricant on the mating surfaces Chain guides
of therod or cap. 10 Check the guides for deep grooves,
m Assemble each connecting rod to its 27 Camshaft chain and guides - ^ cracking and other obvious damage,
proper journal, making sure the previously removal, inspection and ^ replacing them if necessary.
applied matchmarks correspond to each installation ^
other. Note: The letter present at the rod/cap Installation
Beam on one side of the connecting rod is a 11 Installation of the chain and guides is the
five/gM mark. If new rods are being installed Removal
reverse of removal. Make sure the “ UP” mark
indthey don’t all have the same letter on Camshaft chain on the front camshaft chain guide is at the top
Hfem, two rods with the same letter should 1 Remove the engine (see Section 5). and facing forward (see illustration). When
f ile installed on one side o f the crank, 2 Separate the crankcase halves (see installing the bracket for the cam chain rear
and the letters on the other two rods Section 22). guide, apply a non-hardening thread locking
\ should match each other. This will minimize 3 Remove the crankshaft (see Section 25). compound to the threads of the bolts. Tighten
vibration. 4 Remove the chains from the crankshaft. the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
25 When you’re sure the rods are positioned
Chain guides Specifications. Apply engine oil to the faces of
■jwrectly, apply a small amount of engine oil
the guides and to the chains.
Nothe threads of the bolts and the seating 5 The cam chain front guide can be lifted
BUrface of the nuts. On D models, tighten the from the cylinder block after the head has
Kits to the torque listed in this Chapter’s been removed, or from the crankcase after
Specifications. On E models, the bolts are of the head and block have been removed (see
Hie stretch type and must be renewed illustration 13.4).
whgnever they are disturbed; measure the 6 The cam chain rear guide is fastened to the
length of the new bolts and record the figure, crankcase with a bracket and two bolts (see
Men install the bolts and tighten their nuts to illustration). Remove the bolts and detach
Wie torque listed followed by tightening the guide and bracket from the case.
jjhrough the specified angle. Now measure the
lolt length and compare it to the original
Inspection
[length; the difference should not exceed Camshaft chain
0.25- 0.35 mm. 7 Pull the chain tight to eliminate all slack and
20-link Length
28.2 Once the crankcase has been separated, the transmission 28.4 Make sure the shaft bearings are properly engaged with
shafts can be lifted out set pins (A) and set rings (B)
are present in the upper case half, where the 3 Support the shift forks and pull the
28 Transmission shafts - shaft bearings seat (see illustration). rods out (see illustration). The driveshaft
removal and installation ^ 5 Carefully lower each shaft into place. The forks and the shift rods are
holes in the needle bearing outer races must but it’s a good idea to
engage with the set pins, and the grooves in soon as they’re removed from the
the ball bearing outer races must engage with they can be returned to their origina
Removal the set rings. If you have trouble fitting the (see illustration).
1 Remove the engine and clutch, then cases together, this is the most likely cause of
separate the case halves (see Sections 5, 20 the problem
and 22). 6 The remainder of installation is the reverse
2 The shafts can simply be lifted out of the of removal.
upper half of the case (see illustration). If
they are stuck, use a soft-face hammer and
gently tap on the bearings on the ends of the 29 Shift drum and forks -
shafts to free them. The shaft nearest the rear removal, inspection and 5
of the case is the output shaft - the other shaft installation ^
is the main drive shaft.
3 Refer to Section 29 for information
pertaining to the shift drum and forks and to
Removal
Section 30 for information pertaining to 1 Remove the engine, separate the
transmission shaft service. crankcase halves and remove the external
shift mechanism (see Sections 5, 21 and 22). 29.3b . . . and reassemble them so
Installation 2 Remove the retaining plate for the shift can be returned to their original
4 Check to make sure the set pins and rings drum and shift rods (see illustration). positions
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*43
27 Bearing \
28 Snap-ring 50 ^
29 Needle bearing 51 \
30 Bearing outer race \
31 Thrust washer ’■
32 First gear IP
33 Fifth gear 47 Bearing Shift shaft/external
34 Snap-ring 48 Collar shift mechanism
35 Toothed washer 49 Countershaft sprocket assembly
36 Third gear (also referred to as the Return spring
37 Fourth gear ‘‘drive sprocket”) Stud
38 Bushing 50 Locking washer Gear positioning lever
39 Toothed washer 51 Countershaft sprocket retaining bolt
40 Snap-ring nut Gear positioning lever
41 Sixth gear 52 Shift linkage pinch Collar
42 Snap-ring bolt Return spring
43 Toothed washer 53 Shift linkage Shift linkage adjustment
44 Second gear 54 Snap-ring rod and nuts
45 Bushing 55 Collar Shift lever rubber
46 Output shaft 56 Return spring Shift lever
29.6 An exploded view of the shift drum and transmission shaft assemblies
2*44 Engine, clutch and transmission
30.2a Slide off the needle bearing outer 30.2b . . . then remove the snap-ring and 30.3 Remove the thrust washer and
race . . . bearing second gear
30.4a Slide off sixth gear . . . 30.4b . . . and its bushing 30.5a Remove the toothed washer an
snap-ring . . .
Engine, clutch and transmission 2»45
30.6 Slide the third/fourth gear off the 30.7a Remove the snap-ring . . .
shaft
Inspection third/fourth gear assembly, and also check 30.9 and the accompanying illustration).
I Wash all of the components in clean the third/fourth gear shift fork (see Replace the paired gears as a set if
solvent and dry them off. Rotate the ball Section 29). necessary.
bearing on the shaft, feeling for tightness, 10 Check the gear teeth for cracking and 12 Check the needle bearing and race for
ugh spots, excessive looseness and other obvious damage. Check the bushing wear or heat discoloration and replace them if
ning for noises. If any of these conditions and surface in the inner diameter of the fifth necessary.
found, replace the bearing. This will and sixth gears for scoring or heat
R e a s s e m b ly
quire the use of a hydraulic press or a discoloration. If either one is damaged,
replace it. 13 Reassembly is the basically the reverse of
iring puller setup. If you don’t have access
) these tools, take the shaft and bearing to a 11 Inspect the dogs and the dog holes in the the disassembly procedure, but take note of
vasaki dealer or other motorcycle repair gears for excessive wear (see illustration the following points (see illustration):
hopand have them press the old bearing off
lieshaft and install the new one. © © ©
9 Measure the shift fork groove between third
and fourth gears (see illustration). If the
ove width exceeds the figure listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications, replace the
30.13b When installing snap-rings (1), 30.13c Be sure to align the bushing oil 30.14a Slide off the bearing outer race.,
align the opening (3) with a spline hole with the shaft oil hole (arrowed)
groove (2)
30.17a Remove the snap-ring . . . 30.17b . . . the toothed washer . . . 30.17c . . . third gear.
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*47
30.17d . . . its bushing and fourth gear 30.18a Remove the toothed washer . . . 30.18b . . . the snap-ring
Caution: Don’t pull the gear up too hard or Inspection a) Always use new snap-rings and align the
fast ■the balls will fly out of the gear. opening o f the ring with a spline groove
21 Refer to Steps 8 through 12 for the
17 Remove the snap-ring, toothed washer, (see illustration 30.13b). Face the sharp
inspection procedures. They are the same,
third gear, bushing and fourth gear from the side of each snap-ring toward the gear
shaft (see illustrations). except when checking the shift fork groove
being secured; face the rounded side of
18 Remove the toothed washer, snap-ring width you’ll be checking it on fifth and sixth snap-ring away from the gear.
andsixth gear (see illustrations). gears. b) When installing the bushing for third and
19 Remove the next snap-ring, toothed fourth gear and second gear, align the oil
Reassembly
washer, second gear and its bushing (see hole in the bushing with the hole in the
Illustrations). 22 Reassembly is the basically the reverse of shaft.
20 The ball bearing and collar can remain on the disassembly procedure, but take note of c) When installing fifth gear, don't use
theshaft unless they need to be replaced (see the following points (see illustration grease to hold the balls in place - to do so
illustration). overleaf): would impair the positive neutral finder
30.19b . . . the toothed washer and second 30.19c . . . and its bushing 30.20 The bearing and collar can be left on
gear. . . the shaft unless they’re worn or damaged
2*48 Engine, clutch and transmission
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable |k Fairly difficult, |k Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY 5^ suitable for expert DIY
|-experience % some experience ^ DIY mechanic mechanic ^ or professional
Specifications
General
Coolant type.................................... See Chapter 1
Mixtureratio.................................... See Chapter 1
Radiator cap pressure rating ............. 14 to 18 psi (0.95 to 1.25 bars)
litemiostatic fan switch rating
I Rising temperature........................ From Off to On at 96 to 100° C (205 to 212° F)
Fallingtemperature........................ From On to Off at 91 to 95° C (196 to 203° F)
■ Resistance
■ On.......................................... Less than 0.5 ohms
Off.......................................... More than 1 M-ohm
Coolant temperature sensor resistance
At 80-degrees C (176-degrees F) . . . 47 to 57 ohms
At 100-degrees C (212-degrees F) . . 26 to 30 ohms
Thermostat ra tin g
Valveopening temperature................. 80 to 84° C (176 to 183° F)
Valvefully open a t............................. 95° C (203° F)
Valvetravel (when fully open)............. Not less then 8 mm (5/16-inch)
Torque sp ecificatio ns
IpeiTnostatic fan switch.................... 18 Nm (156 in-lbs)
Coolant temperature sensor............... 7.8 Nm (69 in-lbs)
Oil cooler
H|ose-to-cooler banjo bolts............. 25 Nm (216 in-lbs)
■iHose-to-engine flange b olts........... 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
3»2 Cooling system
passes up through a flexible hose and a motorcycle is not moving. Under certain
1 General information coolant pipe, which distributes the water conditions, the fan may come on even after
around the four cylinders. It flows through the the engine is stopped, and the ignition switch
water passages in the cylinder head, through is off, and may run for several minutes.
another pipe (or hoses) and into the The coolant temperature sending unit,
thermostat housing. The hot coolant then threaded into the thermostat housing, senses
The models covered by this manual are
flows down into the radiator (which is the temperature of the coolant and controls
equipped with a liquid cooling system (see
mounted on the frame downtubes to take the coolant temperature gauge on the
illustration) which utilizes a water/antifreeze advantage of maximum air flow), where it is instrument cluster.
mixture to carry away excess heat produced cooled by the passing air, through another The entire system is sealed and
during the combustion process. The cylinders hose and back to the water pump, where the pressurized. The pressure is controlled by a
are surrounded by water jackets, through cycle is repeated. valve which is part of the radiator cap. By
which the coolant is circulated by the water An electric fan, mounted behind the pressurizing the coolant, the boiling point is
pump. The pump is mounted to the left side of radiator and automatically controlled by a raised, which prevents premature boiling of
the crankcase and is driven by a gear thermostatic switch, provides a flow of the coolant. An overflow hose, connected
mounted on the secondary shaft. The coolant cooling air through the radiator when the between the radiator and reservoir tank.
3.2 To detach the reservoir, disconnect the hoses, then remove 4.1 Unplug the switch leads and bridge them with a jumper wire
the retaining bolts (arrows)
coolant to the tank when the radiator steam has stopped escaping, press down of this book). If the fuse is good, remove the
cap valve is opened by excessive pressure. on the cap while turning counterclockwise lower fairing (see Chapter 8) and unplug the
The coolant is automatically siphoned back to and remove it. electrical leads from the therm ostatic fan
theradiator as the engine cools. switch. Using a jum per wire, connect these
Many cooling system inspection and tw o leads (see illustration). If the fan still
service procedures are considered part of 2 Radiator cap - check doesn’t come on, check the wiring,
routine maintenance and are included in ‘Daily
(pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of this I connectors and fan motor.
2 To check the motor, remove the fuel tank
Manual and Chapter 1. and trace the wiring harness from the fan
On later UK models, the coolant is also If problems such as overheating and loss of m otor to its electrical connector, located
used to warm the carburetor bodies via an coolant occur, check the entire system as between the steering head and the cross
arrangement of small hoses. The coolant described in Chapter 1. The radiator cap brace and accessible from above (it’s a two-
travels from the rear of the cylinder block, opening pressure should be checked by a wire black connector). Unplug the connector
through a filter, through the carburetor dealer service department or service station and, using two jumper wires connected to the
castings and then rejoins the main cooling equipped with the special tester required to battery terminals, apply battery voltage to the
system at the water pump. A check valve is do the job. If the cap is defective, replace it fan-side of the electrical connector. If the fan
fitted above the water pump to ensure the with a new one. doesn’t rotate, replace the fan motor. If it
correct flow of coolant. does rotate, the problem is either in the
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze wiring, connectors or the therm ostatic fan
4.6 To detach the fan, remove the bolts (arrows); to separate the 5.2 The sensor (arrow) is threaded into the thermostat housingo
motor, remove the screws (arrows) the right side of the frame
Replacement 10 Prepare the new switch by wrapping the 4 If the gauge passes both of these tests,
threads with Teflon tape or by coating the doesn’t operate correctly under normal rii
Fan motor threads with RTV sealant. Remove the lower conditions, the temperature sending uniti
Warning: The engine must be fairing (see Chapter 8). probably defective. To test the sensor, remi
6.4 Remove the four screws (arrows) that attach the cover to the 6.5 Remove the thermostat cover
thermostat housing
6,6a Remove the thermostat from the housing, noting how it’s 6.6b . . . and remove the O-ring from the cover
installed . . .
1 If the thermostat is functioning properly, the and other damage. If it was open when it was 13 Install a new O-ring in the groove in the
coolant temperature gauge should rise to the removed, it is defective. Check the O-ring for thermostat cover.
normal operating temperature quickly and cracks and other damage. 14 Place the cover on the housing and install
(hen stay there, only rising above the normal 8 To check the therm ostat’s operation, the cover screws, tightening them securely.
position occasionally when the engine gets submerge it in a container of water along with
unusually hot. If the engine does not reach a therm om eter (see illustration). The
normal operating temperature quickly, or if it thermostat should be suspended so it does
overheats, the thermostat should be removed not touch the container.
and checked, or replaced with a new one. Warning: A ntifreeze is poisonous. D on’t
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). use a cooking pan.
3 Remove the trim panel between the upper 9 Gradually heat the water in the container
fairing and the right side of the fuel tank (see with a hot plate or stove and check the
Chapter 8). temperature when the thermostat first starts
4 Remove the four screws that attach the cover to open. Continue heating the water and
tothe thermostat housing (see illustration). check the temperature when the thermostat is
5 Remove the therm ostat cover (see fully open.
illustration). It isn’t necessary to disconnect 10 Compare your results to the specified
the hoses from the cover. thermostat opening temperature range listed
6 Withdraw the thermostat from the housing in this Chapter’s Specifications.
and remove the O-ring from the cover (see 11 If the therm ostat does not open as
illustrations). described, replace it.
Check Installation 6.8 To check the thermostat, submerge it
7 Remove any coolant deposits, then visually 12 Install the therm ostat into the housing, in a container of water and gradually heat
check the thermostat for corrosion, cracks spring end first (see illustration 6.6a). the water
3*6 Cooling system
mounting bracket assembly. To separate the from the rubber gromm et located in
housing from the bracket, remove the two bracket on top of the oil cooler (see
cover screws on the bracket side of the cover. illustration). Remove the radiator.
8 If the radiator is to be repaired or replaced!
Installation remove the cooling fan (see Section 4).
7 Place the thermostat housing and bracket 9 Carefully examine the radiator for evide
assembly in position, install the bolts and of leaks and damage. It is recommended M l
tighten them securely. any necessary repairs be performed by 8J
8 Connect the hoses to the thermostat cover reputable radiator repair shop.
and housing. 10 If the radiator is clogged, or if larg
9 The remainder of installation is the reverse amounts of rust or scale have formed,
of the removal procedure. Fill the cooling repair shop will also do a thorough cieanin
system with the recommended coolant (see job.
Chapter 1). 11 Make sure the spaces between the?
7.4 Loosen the hose clamps and cooling tubes and fins are clear. If necessa
disconnect the hoses, then remove the use compressed air or running water to
bolts (arrows) Radiator - % remove anything that may be clogging them.
removal and installation
15 The remainder of installation is the reverse
of the removal procedure. Fill the cooling If the radiator fins are bent
system with the recommended coolant (see HAYNES
or flattened, straighten them
Chapter 1). Removal very carefully with a small
Warning: The engine must be screwdriver.
7 Thermostat housing - % completely cool before
removal and installation ^ beginning this procedure.
Installation
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. Disconnect
the cable from the negative terminal of the 12 Installation is the reverse of the removal
battery. procedure. Be sure to replace the hoses il
Removal 2 Remove the upper and lower fairings (see they are deteriorated, and refill the cooling
Warning: The engine must be system with the recommended coolant (see1
A
Chapter 8).
completely cool before 3 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). Chapter 1).
beginning this procedure. 4 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
1 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). Follow the wiring harness from the fan motor
Water pump - check,
2 Remove the trim panel between the upper to the electrical connector, then unplug the
removal and installation
fairing and the right side of the fuel tank (see connector. Detach any other wiring that may
Chapter 8). interfere with radiator removal.
3 Unplug the electrical lead from the coolant 5 Loosen the hose clamps on both radiator
temperature sensor and disconnect the hoses (one at the lower left corner and one at Check
ground wire from the bolt right above the the upper right corner of the radiator) and
Warning: The engine must be
sensor (see illustration 5.2).
4 Detach the hoses from the therm ostat
cover and housing (see illustration).
5 Remove the two bolts which attach the
detach the hoses (on some models it may be
easier to detach the left side hose at the water
pump, instead of the radiator).
6 Remove the radiator mounting bolts (see
A completely cool before
beginning this procedure.
Note: The water pump on these models can't
thermostat housing bracket to the frame (see illustration). be overhauled - it must be replaced as a unit.
illustration 7.4). 7 Lift the radiator up slightly to detach the 1 Visually check around the area of the water
6 Remove the therm ostat housing and positioning pin on the bottom of the radiator pump for coolant leaks. Try to determine if the
8.6 Remove the bolts that attach the upper corners of the 8.7 Lift the radiator to disengage the pin on its lower edge from
radiator to their frame brackets the grommet on top of the oil cooler
Cooling system 3*7
9.5Loosen the clamp (arrow) and detach the hose, then remove 9.7 Try to wiggle the water pump impeller back-and-forth and in-
the cover bolts (arrows) and-out
The upper and lower bolts are also the water pump-to-engine
retaining bolts
leak is simply the result of a loose hose clamp cover O-ring, remove the old O-ring (see
or deteriorated hose. illustration) and install a new one.
2 Set the bike on its centerstand.
3 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). Removal
4 Drain the engine coolant (see Chapter 1). 10 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1).
5 Loosen the hose clamp and detach the inlet 11 Disconnect the inlet hose from the pump
hose from the water pump cover (see cover (see illustration 9.5).
illustration). 12 Disconnect the outlet hose and drain bolt
6 Remove the cover bolts (see illustration housing from the water pump (see
9.5) and separate the cover from the water illustration).
pump body. 13 Pull the pump straight out to remove it
7 Try to wiggle the water pump impeller (see illustration).
back-and-forth and in-and-out (see 14 Check the “weep hole” (coolant drainage
illustration). If you can feel movement, the passage) in the underside of the pump body
9.9 Inspect the water pump cover O-ring
water pump must be replaced. (see illustration overleaf). If there is coolant
for cracks; if it’s damaged or deteriorated,
8 Check the impeller blades for corrosion. If residue around it, the water pump is defective
replace it
they are heavily corroded, replace the water (when coolant gets past the mechanical seal
pump and flush the system thoroughly (it inside the pump, it leaks out the weep hole).
would also be a good idea to check the Replace the pump. sleeve (see illustration 9.14 overleaf). If it’s
internal condition of the radiator). 15 If the original water pump is to be cracked or otherwise deteriorated, replace it
9 If the cause of the leak was just a defective installed, check the O-ring on the pump with a new one.
9.12 Remove the drain plug housing retaining bolt and detach the 9.13 To remove the water pump assembly, pull it straight out of
housing and outlet hose the engine
3*8 Cooling system
9.14 Inspect the “weep hole” carefully 9.16 Make sure the water pump is engaged with the D-shaped
nose (arrow) on the oil pump shaft
A
O-rings don’t bunch up or tear. Install the
completely cool before mounting bolts and tighten them securely. 17 Fill the cooling system with the
beginning this procedure. 10 Inspect the upper coolant hose. If it’s recommended coolant (see Chapter 1) and
1 Place the bike on its centerstand. cracked, torn or otherwise deteriorated, this is check for leaks.
2 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). a good time to replace it. Reattach the coolant 18 The remainder of installation is the reverse
3 Drain the engine coolant (see Chapter 1). hose and tighten the hose clamp securely. of the removal procedure.
10.5 Loosen the clamp and detach the hose from the right end of 10.12 Loosen the clamp and detach the hose from the lower left
the pipe, then remove the bolts (arrows) and pull the pipe ends end of the pipe, then remove the bolts (arrows) and pull the pipe
out of the cylinder head ends out of the cylinder block; discard the old O-rings
Cooling system 3*9
11.3 Remove the banjo bolts (arrow); 11.4 To detach the oil cooler from the 11.5 To detach the oil cooler hoses from
discard the old sealing washers frame, remove these two bolts (arrows) the engine, remove these flange bolts
(arrows)
2 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). flanges to the pan. Discard the old O-rings.
11 Oil cooler - ^ 3 Place a drain pan under the oil cooler Lubricate the new O-rings with clean
; removal and installation H? and remove the hose-to-oil cooler banjo bolts engine oil and tighten the flange bolts to
(see illustration). Discard the sealing the torque listed in this Chapter’s
washers. Specifications.
Note: Wait until the engine is cool before 4 Remove the oil cooler retaining bolts (see 6 Installation of the oil cooler is the reverse of
| beginning this procedure. If the oil cooler is illustration). removal. Be sure to use new sealing washers
I being removed to access the oil filter, take 5 Inspect both oil cooler hoses for cracks when installing the hose-to-cooler banjo
care to avoid burning your hands on the hot and tears. If either hose is damaged or bolts. Tighten the banjo bolts to the torque
exhausts or scalding them with hot oil. otherwise deteriorated, replace it. To detach listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Fill the
T1 Set the bike on its centerstand and drain the hoses from the engine, remove the crankcase with the recommended type and
theengine oil (see Chapter 1). bolts (see illustration) that attach the hose amount of oil (see Chapter 1).
Chapter 4
Fuel and exhaust systems
Contents
Air filter housing - removal and in sta lla tio n .......................................... 4 Fuel pump (E models) - description, check
Air filter element - servicing .............................................. See Chapter 1 and component replacement ........................................................... 3
buretor overhaul - general information .......................................... 6 Fuel tank - removal, cleaning, repair and installation ........................ 2
uretors - disassembly, cleaning and inspection ........................ 7 Fuel tap - removal and in sta lla tio n ................................... See Chapter 1
uretors - fuel level a d ju stm e n t....................................................... 9 General in fo rm a tio n ................................................................................. 1
uretors - reassembly and float height adjustm ent...................... 8 Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - general information ......................12
uretors - removal and installation ................................................ 5 Idle speed - check and adjustment ................................. See Chapter 1
Choke cable - removal, installation and a d ju stm e n t.......................... 11 Throttle cables and grip - removal, installation
Exhaust system - removal and in s ta lla tio n ..........................................13 and a d ju s tm e n t....................................................................................10
Fuel system - check and filter cleaning .......................... See Chapter 1 Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay - check
and adju stm e n t................................................................ See Chapter 1
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitablefor Fairly easy, suitable | k Fairly difficult, ^ Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult, \
novicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY
experience ^ some experience ^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional ^
Specifications
General
buretor type ............................................................................................ .....Keihin Seiki CVK-D36 (four)
Fuel pressure (E models) ............................................................................. .....1.6 to 2.3 psi (0.11 to 0.16 bars)
Carburetor adjustments
Choke cable freeplay ............... 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)
Float h e ig h t................................ 9 to 13 mm (0.3546 to 0.5122 inch)
Fuel le v e l.................................... 2 to 4 mm below the mark
Torque specification
Carburetor holder bolts ........... 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
immediately with soap and water. Mop up
1 General information 2 Fuel tank - removal, cleaning, ^ any spills immediately and do not store
repair and installation ^ fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite,
When you perform any kind of work on the
fuel system, wear safety glasses and have
The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, a fire extinguisher suitable for a class B
the fuel tap and filter, the carburetors and the Removal type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
connecting lines, hoses and control cables. Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is 1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8).
The carburetors used on these motorcycles
are four constant vacuum Keihins with
butterfly-type throttle valves. For cold starting,
A extremely flammable, so take
extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
2 Disconnect the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery.
3 Remove the front screws from the left and
an enrichment circuit is actuated by a cable system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames right side covers (see Chapter 8).
and the choke lever mounted on the left or bare light bulbs near the work area, and 4 Mark and disconnect the breather
handlebar. don’t work in a garage where a natural from the rear of the fuel tank. On Californi
The exhaust system is a four-into-tw o gas-type appliance (such as a water models, mark and disconnect the evaporati
design with a crossover pipe. heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is emission hoses (see illustration).
Many of the fuel system service procedures present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, 5 Remove the two bolts that attach the front
are considered routine maintenance wear latex gloves when there’s a of the tank to the frame (see illustration).
items and for that reason are included in possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if 6 On D models, remove the two rear
Chapter 1. you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off mounting bolts (see illustration). On
2.4 Evaporative emissions hoses should be 2.5 To detach the front of the fuel tank 2.6a Remove the bolts (upper arrows); 1
labeled to prevent confusion during from the frame, remove these two bolts remove the inlet duct, remove the screws
reassembly (arrows) (lower arrows)
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*3
Cleaning and re p a ir
10 All repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional who has
experience in this critical and potentially
gerous work. Even after cleaning and
ishing of the fuel system, explosive fumes
can remain and ignite during repair of the
tank.
11 If the fuel tank is removed from the
vehicle, it should not be placed in an area
where sparks or open flames could ignite the
fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially
careful inside garages where a natural gas-
type appliance is located, because the pilot
light could cause an explosion.
Installation
12 Before installing the tank, check the
condition of the rubber bushings in the front
and rear mounting brackets (see
illustrations). If they're hardened, cracked, or
showany other signs of deterioration, replace
them. 2.12b An exploded view of the fuel tank assembly (E models)
4*4 Fuel and exhaust systems
3.5 Unplug connector (A), remove bolts (B), loosen clamps (C), 3.7 The fuel pump relay (arrow) is on the right side of the bike in
and label and detach the hoses front of the coolant reservoir
13 Installation is the reverse of removal. work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t Check
Make sure the tank seats properly and does smoke or allow open flames or bare light
not pinch any control cables or wires. If it’s bulbs near the work area, and don't work Fuel pump relay
difficult to align the holes in the tank brackets in a garage where a natural gas-type 7 The fuel pump relay is located on the right
with the holes in the frame, stop and check to appliance (such as a water heater or side of the bike (see illustration). To get at it,
see if a hose or cable is in the way. clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. remove the right side cover (see Chapter 8).
Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex 8 Pull the relay out of its rubber holder and
gloves when there’s a possibility of being unplug the electrical connector.
Fuel pump (E models) -
description, check and
| exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel
on your skin, rinse it off immediately with
9 Using a digital high-impedance (10 meg
ohm) multimeter, set the ohmmeter scale to
component replacement I soap and water. Mop up any spills
immediately and do not store fuel-soaked
the 1 x K-ohms range and measure the
resistance at the indicated terminals (see
rags where they could ignite. When you illustrations). If your readings are not as
Description specified, replace the fuel pump relay,
perform any kind of work on the fuel
1 The fuel pump operates when the starter system, wear safety glasses and have a your readings are okay, check the fuel pump
button is depressed and, under certain fire extinguisher suitable for a class B type itself.
conditions, when the engine is running. When fire (flammable liquids) on hand. Caution: Using an analog meter without 10
the fuel level in the float chambers is low, the meg-ohm internal circuitry will produce
fuel pump supplies fuel to the carburetors; 2 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8). inaccurate results and damage the fuel
when the fuel reaches the predetermined 3 Disconnect the cable from the negative pump relay.
level, the fuel pressure rises and the fuel terminal of the battery.
pump goes off. The fuel pressure sensor is 4 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
Fuel pump
integral with the pump. Warning: To protect your eyes
A
5 Unplug the electrical connector for the
Removal pump (see illustration). from spilled or splashed
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is 6 Remove the pump mounting bolts (see kerosene, wear safety goggles
extremely flammable, so take illustration 3.5), detach the fuel hoses and during the following test
extra precautions when you remove the pump. procedure.
3.9a Resistance table for testing the electric fuel pump 3.9b Terminal guide for testing the electric
on E models fuel pump on E models
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*5
1 Fuel pump
2 Automotive-type fuel
pressure gauge
3 Outlet hose
4 Inlet hose
5 Fuel filter
6 Kerosene (paraffin)
7 2-pin connector
8 Battery
9 Jumper leads
3.11 This is the setup for testing the electric fuel pump on E models 3.13 An exploded view of the electric fuel
pump assembly used on E models
Note: If you don’t have a suitable automotive- gauge and compare this reading to the half of the housing forward to clear the hook
type fuel pressure gauge for this procedure, fuel pressure listed in this Chapter's and remove the housing.
lake the pump to a Kawasaki dealer and it Specifications. If the gauge reading is 5 On E models, detach the crankcase
tested there. outside that spec, the pump is defective - breather hose, remove the upper half of the
10 Remove the fuel pump (see Steps 2 replace it. housing (see Chapter 1), remove the screen,
through 6 above) and the fuel filter. remove the rear mounting bolts and remove
11 Fill a container with kerosene (paraffin) Installation the lower half of the housing assembly (see
andhook up the fuel pump, hoses and filter as 13 Installation is the reverse of removal (see illustrations). (Kawasaki also provides a pair
shown (see illustration). Connect a fuel illustration). Make sure the hose clamps are of removable plugs on the rear of the housing
pressure gauge to the high pressure side with all snug; if they’re not, replace them.
aT-fitting as shown.
Warning: Do NOT use gasoline
4.5a Remove the screen . . . 4.5b . . . remove the rear mounting bolts 4.5c . . . and remove the air filter housing.
(arrows). . . Note the access plugs (arrows) on the
back of the housing
4*6 Fuel and exhaust systems
5 Carburetors -
%
removal and installation
I
Removal
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is
extremely flammable, so take
/ J \ extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames
or bare light bulbs near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural
gas-type appliance (such as a water
heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is
present Since gasoline is carcinogenic,
wear latex gloves when there’s a
4.6a Air filter housing details (D models) possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if
you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it
off immediately with soap and water.
Mop up any spills immediately and do not
store fuel-soaked rags where they could
ignite. When you perform any kind of work
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses
and have a fire extinguisher suitable fora
class B type fire (flammable liquids) on
hand.
1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8). Remove
the fuel tank (see Section 2).
2 Remove the air filter housing (see
Section 4).
3 Disconnect the choke cable from the
carburetor assembly (see Section 11).
4 Loosen the lockwheel on the throttle cable
adjuster at the handlebar and turn the adjuster
in all the way (see illustration 4.3 in
Chapter 1). If this doesn’t give you sufficie
(California
slack in the cable to disconnect it from the
models) carburetors, disassemble the switch housin
and disconnect the cable from the twist grip
(see Section 10).
5 Mark and disconnect all vacuum hose-
from the carburetors. On UK E model
disconnect and plug the coolant hoses (see
Chapter 1).
6 Loosen the clamp screws on the intake
manifolds (the rubber tubes that connect the
carburetors to the engine) and pull the
carburetor assembly to the rear, clear of the
intake manifold tubes (see illustration).
7 Raise the carburetor assembly up far
4.6b Air filter housing details (E models) enough to disconnect the throttle cables from
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*7
5.6 Pull the carburetors out of the rubber intake boots (arrows 5.7a Lift the carburetor assembly, flip it over, pull the cable
point to two middle intake boots) toward the pulley to create some slack . . .
the throttle pulley (see illustrations), then Connect all vacuum hoses that were the carburetors are in need of maintenance
remove the carburetors. disconnected. before beginning a major overhaul.
8 After the carburetors have been removed, 15 Install the air filter housing (see Section 4). 3 Check the fuel tap filter, the fuel lines, the
stuff clean rags into the intake manifold tubes 16 Install the fuel tank, turn the fuel tap to gas tank cap vent, the intake manifold hose
toprevent the entry of dirt or other objects. PRI and check for leaks. clamps, the vacuum hoses, the air filter
17 Check and, if necessary, adjust the idle element, the cylinder compression, the spark
Installation speed and carburetor synchronization (see plugs, and the carburetor synchronization
9 Position the assembly over the intake Chapter 1). before assuming that a carburetor overhaul is
manifold tubes. Lightly lubricate the ends of 18 Install the seat (see Chapter 8). required.
thethrottle cables with multi-purpose grease 4 Most carburetor problems are caused by
and attach them to the throttle pulley. Make dirt particles, varnish and other deposits
sure the accelerator and decelerator cables 6 Carburetor overhaul - which build up in and block the fuel and air
arein their proper positions. general information passages. Also, in time, gaskets and O-rings
10 Tilt the front of the assembly down and shrink or deteriorate and cause fuel and air
Insert the fronts of the carburetors into the leaks which lead to poor performance.
intake manifold tubes. Push the assembly 1 Poor engine performance, hesitation, hard 5 When the carburetor is overhauled, it is
forward and tighten the clamps. starting, stalling, flooding and backfiring are generally disassembled com pletely and the
11 Adjust the throttle grip freeplay at the all signs that major carburetor maintenance parts are cleaned thoroughly with a carburetor
handlebar (see Chapter 1). may be required. cleaning solvent and dried with filtered,
12 Connect and adjust the choke cable (see 2 Keep in mind that many so-called unlubricated compressed air. The fuel and air
Section 11). carburetor problems are really not carburetor passages are also blown through with
13 Install the air filter housing (see Section 4). problems at all, but mechanical problems compressed air to force out any dirt that may
14 On UK E models, connect the coolant within the engine or ignition system have been loosened but not removed by the
lines to the carburetors (see Chapter 1). malfunctions. Try to establish for certain that solvent. Once the cleaning process is
5.7b ... disengage the throttle cables from the throttle pulley 5.7c . . . then remove the elbow-shaped cable housings from their
brackets on the carburetor
4*8 Fuel and exhaust systems
7.2a Remove the choke shaft spring (arrow ). . . 7.2b . . . and the three choke shaft screws .
7.2e Intake boot mounting screws 7.2f Intake boot mounting screws (arrows) 7.2g The synchronizing screws and
(arrows) (D models) (E models) springs (arrows) should look like this
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»9
1 Choke spring
2 Choke shaft
3 Throttle cable bracket
4 Carburetors
5 Mounting plate
3a Remove the vacuum chamber cover 7.3b . . . the screw that secures the choke
screws (arrows). . . cable bracket has a dowel pin . . .
4*10 Fuel and exhaust systems
7.3d . . . and separate the diaphragm from 7.3e Lift the throttle piston out 7.4a Separate the jet needle from the
its groove and the locating tab (arrow) throttle piston
from its notch
7.5b . . . and lift off the cover 7.6a Loosen the screw shown . . . 7.6b . . . then push out the float
pivot pin . . .
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»11
7.6c ... and lift out the float, together with 7.6d Remove the retaining screw and lift 7.7 Prevent the needle jet holder from
the needle valve out the needle valve seat turning and unscrew the main jet with a
screwdriver
Ihevalve needle from the float. Remove the 9 Using a small, flat-bladed screwdriver, this, punch a hole in the plug with an awl or a
retaining screw and remove the needle valve remove the pilot jet (see illustrations). scribe, then pry it out. On all models, turn the
seat (see illustration). 10 The pilot (idle mixture) screw is located in pilot screw in, counting the number of turns
7 Unscrew the main jet from the needle jet the bottom of the carburetor body (see until it bottoms lightly. Record that number for
holder (see illustration). illustrations). On US models, this screw is use when installing the screw. Now remove
8 Unscrew the needle jet holder/air bleed hidden behind a plug which will have to be the pilot screw along with its spring, washer
pipe(see illustration). removed if the screw is to be taken out. To do and O-ring.
7.9b . . . and lift it out 7.10a The pilot screw on US models is beneath a
plug (arrow)
4*12 Fuel and exhaust systems
7.10b On installation, apply bonding agent 7.11a Unscrew the choke plunger cap with 7.11 b . . . and take out the spring and
around the plug a socket. . . plunger
1 Bonding agent 3 Pilot screw
2 Plug 4 Carburetor body minutes (or longer, if the directions rolling it on a flat surface (such as a piece of
recommend it). glass). Replace it if it’s bent or if the tip is w<
13 After the carburetor has soaked long 18 Check the needle jet and replace
enough for the cleaner to loosen and dissolve carburetor if it’s worn or damaged (i
most of the varnish and other deposits, use a illustration).
brush to remove the stubborn deposits. Rinse 19 Check the tip of the fuel inlet valve needle.
it again, then dry it with compressed air. Blow If it has grooves or scratches in it, it must t
out all of the fuel and air passages in the main replaced. Push in on the rod in the other end
and upper body. of the needle, then release it - if it doesn’t
Caution: Never clean the jets or passages spring back, replace the valve needle (see
with a piece of wire or a drill bit, as they illustration).
will be enlarged, causing the fuel and air 20 Check the O-rings on the float chamb
metering rates to be upset. and the drain plug (in the float chamber),
Inspection Replace them if they’re damaged.
21 Operate the throttle shaft to make i
14 Check the operation of the choke plunger.
7.15 Check the tapered portion (A) of the the throttle butterfly valve opens and ck
If it doesn’t move smoothly, replace it, along
pilot screw for wear or damage smoothly. If it doesn’t, replace the carbureto
with the return spring.
15 Check the tapered portion of the pilot 22 Check the floats for damage. This
11 The choke plunger can be removed by
unscrewing the nut that retains it to the screw for wear or damage (see illustration). usually be apparent by the presence of fuel
carburetor body (see illustrations) if the Replace the pilot screw if necessary. inside one of the floats. If the floats
choke shaft has been removed (see Step 2). 16 Check the carburetor body, float chamber damaged, they must be replaced.
and vacuum chamber cover for cracks, 23 Check the diaphragm for splits, holes i
Cleaning distorted sealing surfaces and other damage. general deterioration. Holding it up to a ligh
Caution: Use only a carburetor cleaning If any defects are found, replace the faulty will help to reveal problems of this nature.
solution that is safe for use with plastic component, although replacement of the 24 Insert the vacuum piston in the carburet!
parts (be sure to read the label on the entire carburetor will probably be necessary body and see that it moves up-and-down
container). (check with your parts supplier for the smoothly. Check the surface of the piston for
12 Submerge the metal components in the availability of separate components). wear. If it’s worn excessively or doesn’t i
carburetor cleaner for approximately thirty 17 Check the jet needle for straightness by smoothly in the bore, replace the carburetor.
7.19 Check the tip of the fuel inlet valve needle for grooves <
7.18 Check the piston insert and the needle jet for wear or scratches
damage 7 Rod 2 Valve needle 3 Groove in tip
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*13
8.14a Make sure the choke shaft engages all four plungers
I
8.14b Be sure to reinstall the plastic washers on both sides of the
(arrows) shaft
4*14 Fuel and exhaust systems
9 Carburetors - f|>
fuel level adjustment \
10.3a Remove the screws from the front half of the throttle 10.3b . . . and take the rear half off the handlebar
housing/switch assem bly.
1 Remove the cables, noting how they are inner cable through the slot in the bracket, correctly engaged with the housing (see
routed. then seat the cable housing in the bracket. illustration).
Installation 10 Repeat the previous step to connect the 14 From the front side of the handlebar,
8 Installation is basically the reverse of decelerator cable. connect the accelerator cable to the forward
removal. Make sure the cables are routed 11 Route the decelerator cable around the hole in the throttle grip pulley. Connect the
properly. Make sure they don’t interfere with backside of the handlebar and connect it to decelerator cable to the rearward hole (see
any other components and aren’t kinked or the rear hole in the throttle grip pulley. illustration).
bent sharply. 12 Seat the decelerator cable in the throttle 15 Install the front half of the cable/switch
9 Lubricate the end of the accelerator cable housing groove (see illustration). housing, making sure the locating pin
with multi-purpose grease and connect it to 13 Push the accelerator cable guide into engages with the hole in the handlebar (see
the throttle pulley at the carburetor. Pass the place, making sure the notched portion is illustration). If necessary, rotate the housing
10.4 Disconnect the cables from the 10.12 Slide the decelerator cable into its 10.13 Position the accelerator cable guide
throttle pulley slot in the housing in the housing
10.14 Engage the decelerator cable (A) and accelerator cable (B) 10.15 Make sure the pin (A) engages hole (B) in the handlebar
with the throttle pulley
4*16 Fuel and exhaust systems
11.2a Loosen the locknut (A), and back off 11.2b Pull the cable free of the bracket 11,3a Remove the choke cable/switch
the adjuster nut (B) to put some slack in and slide the cable through the slot in the housing screws . . .
the choke cable bracket
back and forth, until the locating pin drops 23 Push the throttle grip on. Install the grip Installation
into the hole and the housing halves mate end weight and tighten the screw securely. 5 Route the cable into position. Connect the
together. Install the screws and tighten them 24 Attach the cables following Steps 11 upper end of the cable to the choke lever.
securely. through 15, then adjust the cables following Make sure the cable guide seats properly in
A djustm ent the procedure outlined in Chapter 1, Throttle the housing (see illustration). Place the
operation/grip freeplay - check and housing up against the handlebar, making
16 Follow the procedure outlined in
adjustment. sure the pin in the housing fits into the hole in
Chapter 1, Throttle operation/grip freeplay -
check and adjustment, to adjust the cables. the handlebar. Install the screws, tightening
17 Turn the handlebars back and forth to 11 Choke cable - removal, them securely.
make sure the cables don’t cause the steering 6 Connect the lower end of the cable to the
installation and adjustment ^
to bind. choke lever. Pull back on the cable casing and
18 Install the fuel tank. connect it to the bracket on the no.
19 With the engine idling, turn the handlebars carburetor.
through their full travel (full left lock to full right Removal
lock) and note whether idle speed increases. If it 1 Remove the seat and fuel tank (see Adjustment
does, the cables are routed incorrectly. Correct Section 2).
this dangerous condition before riding the bike. 7 Check the freeplay at the choke plungi
2 Loosen the choke cable adjuster (see lever on the carburetor assembly. It shoul'
Throttle grip illustration). Pull the choke cable housing out move about two to three millimeters (1/8'
of its mounting bracket at the carburetor inch).
Rem oval
assembly, then pass the cable through the 8 If the freeplay isn’t as specified, follow
20 Follow Steps 2 through 4 to detach the
opening in the bracket (see illustration). cable to its mid-line adjuster above the engine
upper ends of the throttle cables from the
Detach the cable end from the choke lever. valve cover (it resembles the throttle cable
throttle grip pulley.
3 Remove the two screws securing the choke adjusters). Loosen the cable adjusting lockm
21 Remove the grip end weight and slide the
cable/switch housing halves to the left and turn the adjusting nut in or out, i
throttle grip off the handlebar.
handlebar (see illustration). Pull the front half necessary, until the freeplay at the lever
Installation of the housing off and separate the choke correct. Tighten the locknut.
22 Clean the handlebar and apply a light coat cable from the lever (see illustration). 9 Install the fuel tank and all of the other
of multi-purpose grease. 4 Remove the cable, noting how it’s routed. components that were previously removed.
11.3b . . . separate the housing halves and disengage the cable 11.5 Make sure everything is installed in the switch housing
from the lever before installing the housing halves
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*17
13.4 To detach a muffler, remove this bolt, washer and nut 13.5 Loosen the muffler-to-exhaust pipe clamp bolt
the machine doesn’t exceed the emissions 4 Remove the muffler mounting bolts and
12 Idle fuel/air mixture regulations. nuts (see illustration).
adjustment - 2 If the engine runs extremely rough at idle or 5 Loosen the clam ps which attach the
general information continually stalls, and if a carburetor overhaul mufflers to the exhaust pipe (see illustration),
does not cure the problem, take the slide the clamps back, and pull the mufflers to
1 Due to the increased emphasis on m otorcycle to a Kawasaki dealer service the rear to disengage them from the exhaust
controlling motorcycle exhaust emissions, departm ent or other repair shop equipped pipe.
certain governmental regulations have been with an exhaust gas analyzer. They will be 6 Remove the tw o bolts which attach the
formulated which directly affect the able to properly adjust the idle fuel/air mixture exhaust pipe to the underside of the bike (see
Carburetion of th is machine. In order to to achieve a smooth idle and restore low
illustration).
comply with the regulations, the carburetors speed performance.
7 Remove the exhaust pipe nuts and slide the
on some models have a metal sealing plug
holders off the mounting studs (see
pressed into the hole over the pilot screw
illustration). If the split keepers didn’t come
(Which c o n tro ls the idle fuel/air mixture) on
each c a rb u re to r, so they can’t be tampered 13 Exhaust system - off with the holders, remove them from the
with. These should only be removed in the removal and installation ^ pipes.
event of a complete carburetor overhaul, and 8 Installation is the reverse of removal (see
even then the screws should be returned to illustration overleaf), but be sure to install a
their original settings. The pilot screws on 1 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). new gasket at the connection point between
other models are accessible, but the use of an 2 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). the mufflers and the exhaust pipe, and make
exhaust gas analyzer is the only accurate way 3 Remove the radiator and oil cooler (see sure the clamps are properly positioned (see
to adjust the idle fuel/air mixture and be sure Chapter 3). illustrations overleaf).
13.6 To detach the exhaust pipe, remove the two bolts (arrow 13.7 To detach the exhaust from the cylinder head, remove the
only one bolt visible in this photo) eight nuts (arrows - not all are visible)
4*18 Fuel and exhaust systems
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for |k Fairly easy, suitable Jk Fairly difficult, Jk Difficult, suitable for ^k Very difficult, ^
novicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY ^
Iexperience some experience ^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional ^
Specifications
Ignition coil
rlmary resistance ....................................................................................... 2.3 to 3.5 ohms
ondary resistance................................................................................... 12.0 to 18.0 K-ohms
Arcing distance............................................................................................. 6 mm (1/64-inch) or more
Pickup coil
Air gap .................................................................................................... .... 0.4 to 0.6 mm (0.016 to 0.024 inch)
| Resistance ................................................................................................... 380 to 570 ohms
Ignition timing
D models
California models ..................................................................................... From 7.5° BTDC <§ 1300 rpm to 40° BTDC @ 3000 rpm
All other models ....................................................................................... From 12.5° BTDC §> 1050 rpm to 40° BTDC @ 3000 rpm
E models
California models ..................................................................................... From 5° BTDC @ 1300 rpm to 35° BTDC @ 5000 rpm
All other models ....................................................................................... From 12.5° BTDC @ 1050 rpm to 35° BTDC @ 5000 rpm
Torque specifications
Alternator cover b o lts ................................................................................... 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
L Pickup coil cover b o lts ................................................................................. 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
I|Timing rotor Allen bolt ............................................................................ .... 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
5*2 Ignition system
O u
®I I ^^ I ®
oc cc
CO m >
116
o
~r
mwmwun
(D
1.1b Ignition system circuit (UK D models)
IC igniter 7 Ignition coil (nos. 2 and 3 12 Junction box 18 Battery
4-pin connector cylinders) 13 Starter circuit relay 19 2-pin connector
6-pin connector 8 Sparkplugs 14 Diodes 20 9-pin connector
Timing rotor 9 Starter button 15 10-pin connector 21 Sidestand switch
Pickup coil 10 Engine stop switch 16 Starter relay 22 Starter lockout switch
Ignition coil (nos. 1 and 4 11 Ignition switch 17 Main (30A) fuse 23 Neutral switch
cylinders)
Ignition system 5*3
isolated, the only cure for the problem is to the plug on the engine with the threads
General information replace the part with a new one. Keep in mind contacting the engine. If necessary, hold the
that most electrical parts, once purchased, spark plug with an insulated tool (see
can’t be returned. To avoid unnecessary illustration). Crank the engine over and make
expense, make very sure the faulty sure a well-defined, blue spark occurs
I This motorcycle is equipped with a battery- component has been positively identified between the spark plug electrodes.
before buying a replacement part. Warning: Don’t remove one of
A
operated, fully-transistorized, breakerless
ignition system (see illustrations). The the spark plugs from the engine
systemconsists of the following components: to perform this check - atomized
fuel being pumped out of the
Pickup coils
ICigniter unit
2 Ignition system - check
% open spark plug hole could ignite, causing
ttery and fuse
Inition coils
I severe injury!
Sparkplugs
Warning: Because of the very
Stop and main (key) switches
imary and secondary circuit wiring
• The transistorized ignition system functions
Oil the same principle as a conventional DC
A high voltage generated by the
ignition system, extreme care
should be taken when these
checks are performed.
Ignition system with the pickup unit and 1 If the ignition system is the suspected
iter performing the tasks normally cause of poor engine performance or failure to
ociated with the breaker points and start, a number of checks can be made to
ihanical advance system. As a result, isolate the problem.
ustment and maintenance of ignition 2 Make sure the ignition stop switch is in the
ponents is eliminated (with the exception Run or On position.
olspark plug replacement).
Because of their nature, the individual Engine will not start
ignition system components can be checked 3 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). 2.3 Ground (earth) a spark plug and
but not repaired. If ignition system troubles Disconnect one of the spark plug wires, operate the starter - bright blue sparks
occur, and the faulty component can be connect the wire to a spare spark plug and lay should be visible
5*4 Ignition system
2.5 Unscrew the spark plug caps from the plug wires and 2.14 Connect the tester - when the engine is cranked, sparks
measure their resistance with an ohmmeter should jump the gap between the nails
4 If no spark occurs, the follow ing checks repair shop equipped with the special tester
should be made: required. Ignition coils - check,
5 Unscrew a spark plug cap from a plug wire removal and installation
and check the cap resistance with an
Engine starts but misfires
ohmmeter (see illustration). If the resistance 12 If the engine starts but misfires, make the
is infinite, replace it with a new one. Repeat follow ing checks before deciding that the
ignition system is at fault. Check
this check on the remaining plug caps.
6 Make sure all electrical connectors are 13 The ignition system must be able to 1 In order to determine conclusively that
clean and tight. Check all wires for shorts, produce a spark across a seven m illimeter ignition coils are defective, they should
opens and correct installation. (1/4-inch) gap (minimum). A simple test fixture tested by an authorized Kawasaki dei
7 Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter (see Tool Tip) can be constructed to make service department which is equipped with the
sure the minimum spark gap can be jumped. special electrical tester required for this chi
and the specific gravity with a hydrom eter
Make sure the fixture electrodes are 2 However, the coils can be checked visui
(see Chapter 1). If the voltage is less than 12-
positioned seven millimeters apart. (for cracks and other damage) and the prii
volts or if the specific gravity is low, recharge
14 Connect one of the spark plug wires to and secondary coil resistances can
the battery.
the protruding test fixture electrode, then measured with an ohmmeter. If the coils
8 Check the ignition fuse and the fuse
attach the fixtu re ’s alligator clip to a good undamaged, and if the resistances are
connections. If the fuse is blown, replace it
engine ground (see illustration). specified, they are probably capable of pn
with a new one; if the connections are loose or
15 Crank the engine over (it will probably operation.
corroded, clean or repair them.
start and run on the remaining cylinders) and 3 To check the coils for physical damage,
9 Refer to Section 3 and check the ignition
see if well-defined, blue sparks occur must be removed (see Step 9). To check
coil primary and secondary resistance. resistances, simply remove the fuel tank (i
between the test fixture electrodes. If the
10 Refer to Section 4 and check the pickup Chapter 4), unplug the primary circuit el<
minimum spark gap test is positive, the
coil resistance. ignition coil for that cylinder (and its connectors from the coil(s) and remove
11 If the preceding checks produce positive companion cylinder) is functioning properly. spark plug wires from the plugs that
results but there is still no spark at the plug, Repeat the check on one of the spark plug connected to the coil being checked. Mark
remove the IC igniter and have it checked by a wires that is connected to the other coil. If the locations of all wires before disconnecting thi
Kawasaki dealer service department or other spark will not jump the gap during either test, 4 To check the coil primary resistance, atti
or if it is weak (orange colored), refer to one ohmmeter lead to one of the priman
TOOL Paragraphs 5 through 11 of this Section and terminals and the other ohmmeter lead to
perform the component checks described. other primary terminal (see illustration).
3,10a Remove the mounting bolts (arrows), and label and unplug 3.10b Remove the mounting bolts (arrows), and label and unplug
the leads (arrows) - D models the leads (arrows) - Emodels
Place the ohmmeter selector switch in the 10 Support the coil with one hand, remove
x 1 position and compare the measured the coil mounting bolts (see illustrations), 4 Pickup coils - check,
listance to the value listed in this Chapter’s and remove the coil from its bracket. Label removal and installation
Iflcations. the positive primary terminal on the coil (see
If the coil primary resistance is as specified, illustration) to ensure that the primary leads
eck the coil secondary resistance by aren’t accidentally switched during
rinecting the meter leads from the primary reassembly. Check
linals and attaching them to the spark plug 1 On D models, remove the seat (see Chapter
!Bterminals (see illustration 3.4). HAYNES If you’re removing both 8). On E models, remove the right side cover
Place the ohmmeter selector switch in the coils, it’s a good idea to (see Chapter 8).
x 100 position and compare the measured label the coils with the 2 On D models, remove the IC igniter (see
resistance to the values listed in this cylinder numbers to which illustration) from its “holster." On E models,
Chapter’s Specifications. they’re connected. unbolt the IC igniter (see Section 6). The
8 If the resistances are not as specified, pickup coil electrical lead consists of two
unscrew the spark plug wire retainers from the 11 Installation is the reverse of removal. If a wires (black wire and yellow wire) that exit the
coil, detach the wires and check the resistance new coil is being installed, unscrew the spark pickup coil cover on the right end of the
again. If it is now within specifications, one or plug wire terminals from the coil, pull the wires crankshaft and are routed along the right side
both of the wires are bad. If it’s still not as out and transfer them to the new coil. Make of the bike back to the igniter. Unplug the
specified, the coil is probably defective and sure the primary circuit electrical connectors connector from the bottom of the igniter (see
should be replaced with a new one. are attached to the proper terminals. Just in illustration). The pickup coil connector is the
case you forgot to mark the wires, the black smaller of the two multi-pin connectors on the
Removal and installation and red wires connect to the no. 1 and 4 bottom of the igniter (if it doesn’t have a black
9 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4), then ignition coil (red to positive, black to negative) wire and a yellow wire, you’ve got the wrong
disconnect the spark plug wires from the plugs. and the red and green wires attach to the no. 2 connector!).
Label them with tape to aid in reinstallation. and 3 coil (red to positive, green to negative). 3 Probe the term inals in the pickup coil
4.2a Unplug the pickup coil connector from the IC igniter 4.2b Unplug the pickup coil connector from the 2-pin connector
(D models) located underneath the IC igniter (E models)
5*6 Ignition system
4.3 Measure the resistance across the two pickup coil terminals 4.4 Measure the resistance between each pickup coil terminal
and ground
5 If the pickup coil fails either of the above 10 Route the electrical lead exactly the sad
tests, it must be replaced. way it was routed before.
11 Plug in the electrical connector, install the?]
Removal IC igniter and install the seat (D models) i
6 Remove the screws that secure the pickup side cover (E models) and seat.
coil cover to the engine case (see illustration)
and detach the cover from the engine.
7 Unscrew the pickup coil mounting screws 5 Timing rotor -
(see illustration) and remove the pickup coil. removal and installation
Note how the pickup coil wires are routed to
insure proper rerouting of the new wires.
Follow the wires back to the IC igniter and 1 Refer to Section 4 and remove the pick-up
unplug the connector. coil cover.
2 Hold the timing rotor with a wrench on its
4.6 To remove the pickup coil cover, Installation hex and remove the Allen bolt (see
remove these four bolts (arrows)
8 Install the new pickup coil unit and tighten illustration).
connector with an ohmmeter (see the screws securely. Apply silicone sealant to 3 Take the timing rotor off the crankshaft.
illustration) and compare the resistance the grommet for the electrical leads and push 4 Installation is the reverse of the removal |
reading with the range of resistance listed in the grommet into its notch in the case. steps, with the following additions:
this Chapter’s Specifications. 9 Apply silicone sealant to the “split-line” of a) Align the timing rotor notch with the pin on
4 Set the ohmmeter on the highest resistance the crankcase halves, then install the pickup the end o f the crankshaft (see illustration).
range. Measure the resistance between a coil cover. Make sure the cover is installed b) Hold the timing rotor hex with the same
good ground and each terminal in the pickup with the “ UP” mark facing upward. Tighten wrench used during removal and tighten
coil connector (see illustration). The meter the cover bolts to the torque listed in this the Allen bolt to the torque listed in this
should indicate infiniteresistance. Chapter’s Specifications. Chapter's Specifications.
4.7 Remove the screws (arrows), pull the grommet (arrow) for the 5.2 Hold the timing rotor with a wrench and remove the Allen bolt
leads out of its notch in the case
Ignition system 5*7
IC igniter - removal,
%
check and installation
I
Removal
1Remove the right side cover (see Chap
ters).
2Unbolt the igniter (see illustration) and
unplug the electrical connectors.
Check
3According to Kawasaki, a special tester is
required to accurately measure the resistance 5.4 Align the notch in the timing rotor with 6.2 Remove the bolts (arrows), then pull
values across the various terminals of the IC the pin on the crankshaft (arrows) the igniter out and unplug the multi-pin
I Igniter. However, if you have a high- electrical connectors
impedance (10 meg-ohm) digital multimeter, measure the resistance at the specified other repair shop equipped with the special
youcan test the igniter yourself. terminals and compare your measurements to tester.
Caution: Using an analog meter without 10 the values listed in the resistance table for
meg-ohminternal circuitry will produce your model. If the igniter fails any test, replace
Installation
mcurate results and damage the IC it. If you’re in any doubt about the accuracy of 4 Plug in the electrical connectors, place the
Igniter. your readings, or if you don’t have a high- igniter in position, install the mounting bolts
Referring to the accompanying resistance impedance digital multimeter, take the unit to and tighten them securely.
tables and terminal guides (see illustrations), a Kawasaki dealer service department or 6 Install the side cover (see Chapter 8).
© d
6.3b Resistance table for IC the igniter (D models) (all values given in k-ohms)
5*8 Ignition system
1 - 00 oo 00 - -
c 2 00 - 0.08 - 0.18 36 - 78 - -
o
*-*
o
<D 3 00 0.08 - 0 .1 8 - 36 - 7 8 - -
c
c 4 00 32 - 78 32 - 78 - - -
oO
~o 5 - - - - - 00
CB
<u
_1 6 - - - - 32 - 132 -
7 - - - - 00 00
8 - - - - 6.5 - 16 6 .5 - 1 6 j
</>
0)
1— 9 - - - - 00 00
10 - - - - 1 8 -4 2 1 8 -4 2
11 - - - - 00 00
12 - - - - 1 .9 -5 2 .3 -6
oo
CD
6 00 28 - 60 32 - 132 40 - 96 00
I
3
T 7 - 00 00 00 00 00
- 1 2 -3 2
w
10 00 7.5 - 17 00
I
11 00 oo 00 00 - 00
12 00 2.3 - 6 1.9-5 11-22 00 -
6.3c Resistance tab le for the IC igniter (E models) (all values given in k-ohms)
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, |k Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult, ^
novicewith little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY* ^ suitable for expert DIY ^
experience ^ some experience gS DIY mechanic ^ mechanic v or professional >jS
Specifications
Front fork
Springfree length
Dmodels
■ Standard................................................................................................... .....415 mm (16.34 inches)
Minimum................................................................................................... .....407 mm (16.02 inches)
E1 and E2 models
I Standard................................................................................................... .....283.6 mm (11.17 inches)
I Minimum................................................................................................... .....278 mm (10.94 inches)
H E3-on models
Standard................................................................................................... .....412.3 mm (16.23 inches)
I Minimum................................................................................................... .....404 mm (15.91 inches)
Fork tube protrusion above upper triple clam p ..............................................15.0 to 16.5 mm (0.59 to 0.66 inches)
Torque specifications
Front forks
Oil drain bolt (D models o n ly ) .................................................................... 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)
Front axle pinch b o lt .............................................................................. .... 20 Nm (14.5 ft-lbs)
Rear shock absorber
Upper and lower bolts/nuts .................................................................. .... 59 Nm (43 ft-lbs)
Coil spring preload adjuster lock r in g ................................................... .... 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)
Tie-rod b o lts /n u ts ....................................................................................... 59 Nm (43 ft-lbs)
Steering head
Steering stem head nut
D m o d e ls............................................................................................. .... 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs)
E m o d e ls ............................................................................................. .... 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs)
Steering stem adjuster n u t .................................................................... .... 4.9 Nm (43 in-lbs) or hand tighten
Triple clamp/fork tube pinch bolts ( a ll) ..................................................... 20 Nm (14.5 ft-lbs)
Handlebar-to-upper triple clamp bolts
D m o d e ls............................................................................................. .... 20 Nm (14.5 ft-lbs)
E m o d e ls ............................................................................................. .... 23 Nm (16.5 ft-lbs)
Swingarm pivot b o lt/n u t................................................................................. 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)
The front forks are a conventional coil- 1 The handlebars are individual assemblies Forks -
spring, hydraulically-damped telescopic type, that slip over the tops of the fork tubes, each removal and installation
designed to run at atmospheric pressure (i.e. being retained to the steering head by two
they’re not pressurized). Allen-head bolts. If the handlebars must be
The rear suspension consists of a single removed for access to other components,
nitrogen-charged shock absorber/coil spring such as the forks or the steering head, simply Removal
assembly, a rocker arm, two tie-rods and a pry out the caps, remove the bolts and slip the 1 Set the bike on its centerstand.
square-section aluminum swingarm. The handlebar(s) off the fork tubes (see 2 Remove the handlebars (see Section 2),
shock absorber has an adjuster knob at the illustrations). It isn’t necessary to disconnect Support them so the cables, wires and brake
bottom which allows three rebound damping the cables, wires or hoses, but it is a good hose aren’t strained or kinked.
settings. Setting 1, which provides weak idea to support the assembly with a piece of 3 On E models remove the small horn access
damping force, is for light loads, good roads wire or rope, to avoid unnecessary strain on panel from the upper fairing. (Removing this
and/or low speeds; setting 3, which produces the cables, wires and (on the right side) the panel provides access to the lower triple
the strongest damping force, is for heavy brake hose. clamp bolts.)
loads, bad roads and/or high speed. The coil 2 If the handlebars are to be removed 4 Unbolt the brake calipers (see Chapter 7)
spring preload can be adjusted by loosening a completely, refer to Chapter 9 for the master and hang them with pieces of wire or rope.
locknut and turning an adjusting nut at the cylinder removal procedure, Chapter 4 for the 5 Disconnect the speedometer cable and
upper end of the shock/coil assembly; the throttle grip removal procedure and Chapter 9 remove the front wheel (see Chapter 7).
range of adjustment - from soft to hard - for the switch removal procedure. 6 Remove the front fender/mudguard (see
compresses the spring from 8 mm (no 3 Check the handlebars for cracks and Chapter 8).
preload) to 17 mm (maximum preload). distortion and replace them if any undesirable 7 Loosen the fork upper and lower triple
2.1a To get to the handlebar bolts, pry out these two caps with a 2.1b You’ll need an Allen bit to remove the handlebar bolts
small screwdriver
Steering and suspension 6*3
3.7a To detach the fork tube from the bike, remove the upper 3.7b . . . and the lower triple clamps bolts (arrows) (the bodywork
triple clamp bolt (arrow). . . has been removed for clarity)
clamp bolts (see illustrations), then slide the bolt. If this happens, the usual next step is to
lork tubes down, using a twisting motion. It 4 Forks - disassembly, ^ use an air tool, if you have it. If not, have an
isn’t necessary to remove the fairing to get to inspection and reassembly ^ assistant push the inner fork tube firmly into
the lower clamp bolts; simply remove the the slider; compressing the fork spring is often
small horn access panel on the underside of sufficient to lock the piston cylinder into place
theupper fairing. while the bolt is loosened. If that doesn't work,
Disassembly try compressing the fork spring and loosening
If the fork legs are seized, Note: Work on one fork leg at a time to avoid the bolt with your air tool. And if that doesn’t
spray the area with work? Borrow or buy the special Kawasaki
St penetrating oil and allow
time for it to soak in before
mixing up the parts.
1 On D models, you can drain the fork oil (see holder and adapter (tool no. 57001-183 and
no. 57001-1057) or a suitable equivalent (see
Chapter 1) before removing the forks. On E
trying again. models, there are no drain screws in the fork illustration), or have a dealer service
legs, so you can’t drain the fork oil until the department loosen the bolt. When removing
the Allen bolt, retrieve the old copper sealing
Installation fork is removed from the bike.
washer (see illustration) and discard it;
8 Slide each fork leg into the lower and upper 2 Remove the forks (see Section 3).
sometimes, this washer sticks to the lower end
triple clamps and snug the triple clamp bolts, 3 Place the fork leg in a bench vise (clamp the
of the outer fork tube, then you forget about it
but don't torque them yet. Pull each tube up vise jaws onto the brake caliper bosses on the
until it's protruding the specified amount about slider; do not clamp onto the friction surface
the upper triple clamp, then tighten the triple of the fork tube itself). Remove the top plug,
clamp bolts tightly enough to hold the tubes in spacer, washer and spring (see Section 25 in
place. Do NOT torque any of the triple clamp Chapter 1).
bolts until the front wheel is installed. 4 Pour out the fork oil, if you haven’t already
9 Install the front fender/mudguard (see drained it.
Chapter 8). 5 Place the fork leg back in the bench vise
10 Install the front wheel (see Chapter 7). again. To finish disassembling the fork, you
11 Tighten the clamp bolts to the torque must remove the large Allen bolt in the bottom
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. of the slider. This bolt attaches the piston
12 The remainder of installation is the reverse cylinder unit to the slider (the outer fork tube).
of removal. Be sure to tighten all fasteners to Sometimes (if you’re lucky), this step can be as
thespecification listed in the Chapter in which easy as inserting an Allen key into the bolt and
that particular component is covered. unscrewing it (see illustration). More often (if 4.5a If the bolt isn’t too tight, you’ll be able
13 Pump the front brake lever several times you’re not), the bolt is too tight and the piston to remove it with an Allen wrench
tobring the pads into contact with the discs. cylinder unit turns when you try to loosen the
4.5b This is the setup you’ll need if the slider-to-piston cylinder bolt is really tight:
1 Cylinder holder handle (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-183) 4 Allen wrench
2 Cylinder holder adapter (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-1057) 5 Fork leg clamped 4.5c Remove and discard the old sealing
I Piston cylinder unit in vise washer
6*4 Steering and suspension
4.6 Pry the dust seal from the outer fork tube with a small 4.7 Pry the retainer ring out of the outer fork tube with a small
screwdriver and slide it up the tube screwdriver
4.8 Grasp the inner and outer fork tubes, and pull them in
opposite directions with a few sharp jerks 4.9 Invert the inner fork tube and remove the piston cylinder unit
A Washer B Oil seal C Retaining ring D Dust seal and spring
during reassembly. This washer must be damper rod base - the small conical-shaped diameter end of the tube, and is seated
replaced when the fork is reassembled. aluminum piece th a t’s in the bottom of the against a shoulder (see illustration). You
6 Pry the dust seal from the outer tube (see outer fork tube below the piston cylinder unit need not remove either bushing unless it
illustration). If you plan to reuse the dust seal, (see illustration 4.5b). appears worn or scratched. If it's necessary
make sure you don’t slide it over rust spots or 11 There are two guide bushings at the lower to replace the inner tube guide bushing (the
scratches on the fork tube, or you will ruin it. end of the inner fork tube. A (smaller) inner one that doesn’t slide up and down, on
Note that the fork protector fitted to E7-on tube guide bushing and a (larger) outer tube the bottom of the inner tube), pry it apart a;
models should not be removed from the top guide bushing; the outer bushing slides freely the slit and slide it off; the outer tube guide
of the outer tube unless it requires renewal, in up and down the fork tube but the inner bushing can then be removed (see
which case ensure that its protective shield bushing fits tightly to a slightly smaller illustrations).
faces the front of the m otorcycle when the
forks are installed.
7 Pry the retaining ring from its groove in the
outer tube (see illustration). Remove the ring;
do not distort this ring any more than
necessary or you will have to use a new ring
during reassembly.
8 To separate the inner and outer fork tubes,
hold the outer tube and yank the inner tube
upward repeatedly (like a slide hammer); the
outer tube bushing on the inner fork tube will
pop loose the washer and seal from the outer
tube (see illustration).
9 Slide the seal and washer off the inner tube. 4.11a The bushings on the lower end of
Invert the tube and remove the piston cylinder the inner fork tube: 4.11b To remove the inner tube guide
unit (see illustration). 1 Inner tube guide bushing 3 Washer bushing, pry it apart at the slit and slide it
10 Invert the outer tube and retrieve the 2 Outer tube guide bushing 4 Seal off
Steering and suspension 6*5
the inner and outer fork tubes, the guide length listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If
bushings and the damper rod for score marks, it’s defective or sagged, replace both fork
scratches, flaking of the chrome and excessive springs with new ones. Never replace only
or abnormal wear. Look for dents in the tubes one spring.
and replace them if any are found. Check the
fork seal seat for nicks, gouges and scratches.
If damage is evident, leaks will occur around Reassembly
the seal-to-outer tube junction. Replace worn 15 Reassembly is basically the reverse of
or defective parts with new ones. disassembly (see illustration), with the
13 Have the fork inner tube checked for following special instructions:
runout at a dealer service department or other a) To seat the large bushing in the outer fork
repair shop.
tube, place the old bushing against the
Warning: If the fork inner tube is
A
new bushing after the tubes are
4.11c The outer tube guide bushing can bent, it should not be assembled. Make sure that, when
nowbe removed by simply sliding it off straightened; replace it with a installed, the split in the new bushing
new one. faces to one side - not to the front or rear
Inspection 14 Measure the overall length of the long - o f the fork tube, then tap against the
12 Clean all parts in solvent and blow them spring and check it for cracks and other washer with a fork seal driver (Kawasaki
dry with compressed air, if available. Check damage. Compare the length to the minimum tool no. 57001-1340 o ra suitable
4.15b Using a split-type seal driver (this is a Kent-Moore, but any 4.15c . . . tap down gently and repeatedly to seat the bushings
suitable equivalent will w o rk ). . .
4.15d Piston cylinder assembly 4.15e Wrap the top of the fork tube with 4.15f Tap the seal into place until it seats
Install the piston cylinder unit (1) into the inner tape to prevent the lip on the new seal in the outer fork tube (half of the driver
fork tube (2). Install the cylinder base (3) on from damage removed for clarity)
the extended end o f the piston cylinder. Slip
the outer fork tube (4) over the piston the lower end o f the unit (the damper rod) washer on the damper rod bolt. Apply
cylinder/inner fork tube and secure with the into the cylinder base (see illustration). non-permanent thread locking agent to
bolt and sealing washer You can't install the cylinder base through the threads and tighten the bolt to the
the fork tube! Then invert the outer fork torque listed in this Chapter’s
tube (axle end up), insert the reassembled Specifications.
equivalent) (see illustrations); make sure fork tube, piston cylinder unit and cylinder Wrap the end o f the inner fork tube with
the inner tube guide bushing is seated base into the outer fork tube and install tape to protect the oil seal while it’s
firmly against the shoulder, the damper rod bolt. Use a new sealing installed (see illustration). Drive in the
b) When reassembling and installing the seal with the same tool used to install the
piston cylinder unit, install the piston bushing, then install the retaining ring and |
cylinder unit into the fork tube, then insert HAYNES make sure it's securely seated in its
groove (see illustrations).
Install the dust seal and make sure it's
securely seated in the outer fork tube.
Install the forks (see Section 3) and on E3, j
E4 and E5 models, check the adjustment^
settings (see Section 11).
5.3 An exploded view of the steering stem and bearing assembly (D models)
sieering head bearings, the entire front end called the fork bridge or crown). Unless you 6 Unbolt the brake hose union (the metal
must be disassembled and the bearings and plan to replace the upper triple clamp, it isn’t pipe that serves as the junction between
taces replaced with new ones. necessary to remove the handlebars - just set the hose from the master cylinder and the two
2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). the upper triple clamp aside with everything hoses to the front brake calipers) from
3 On D models, remove the steering stem nut attached. the lower triple clamp (see Chapter 7). It
cover (see illustration). 5 If there’s any strain on the electrical leads isn’t necessary to disconnect the hydraulic
4 Remove the steering stem head nut (see between the ignition main (key) switch and the hoses, but make sure no strain is placed on
illustration overleaf) and washer, loosen the main harness, unplug the electrical them.
upper triple clamp-to-fork tube pinch bolts, connectors for the main switch (see 7 Remove the front forks (see Section 3).
then lift off the upper triple clamp (sometimes Chapter 9). 8 On D models, remove the lockwasher from
6*8 Steering and suspension
5.4 An exploded view of the steering stem and bearing assembly (E models)
5.9b . . . and lift off the nut and bearing cover 5.11 Lift the upper steering head bearing out of the steering head
5.14a Drive out the bearing races with the 5.14b . . . or insert a drift from above to 5.14c Kawasaki’s special tools for
special Kawasaki tool (no. 57001-1107) or drive out the race pressing the races into the steering head
a similar to o l. . . 1 Driver press shaft (tool no. 57001-1075)
11 Remove the upper bearing (see amount of wear or damage is evident, the 2 Driver (tool no. 57001-1106)
Illustration). races should be replaced with new ones. 3 Driver (tool no. 57001-1076)
14 To remove the races, drive them out of the
Inspection steering head with Kawasaki tool no. 57001 - installation will be easier if the new races are
12 Clean all the parts with solvent and dry 1107 or a hammer and drift punch (see left overnight in a refrigerator. This will cause
them thoroughly, using compressed air, if illustrations). A slide hammer with the proper them to contract and slip into place in the
available. If you do use compressed air, don’t internal-jaw puller will also work. Since the frame with very little effort. When installing the
let the bearings spin as they’re dried - it could races are an interference fit in the frame, races, use Kawasaki press shaft no. 57001-
ruin them. Wipe the old grease out of the
1075 and drivers no. 57001-1106 and 57001-
frame steering head and bearing races.
1076 (see illustration), or tap them gently into
13 Examine the races in the steering head for
place with a hammer and punch or a large
ks, dents, and pits. If even the slightest
socket. Do not strike the bearing surface or
the race will be damaged.
15 Check the bearings for wear. Look for
cracks, dents, and pits in the races and flat
spots on the bearings. Replace any defective
parts with new ones. If a new bearing is
required, replace both of them as a set.
16 Check the grease seal under the lower
bearing and replace it with a new one if
necessary (see illustration); the wider side of
the grease seal goes down.
17 To remove the lower bearing and grease
removing the lower bearing and grease seal from the steering stem, use a bearing
seal puller (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-158),
1 Bearing puller (tool no. 57001-158) combined with adapter no. 57001-317 (see
5.16 Remove the lower bearing and 2 Adapter (tool no. 57001-137) illustration). A bearing puller, which can be
grease seal from the steering stem only if 3 Lower bearing rented, will also work. Don’t remove this
they’re to be replaced 4 Steering stem bearing unless it, or the grease seal
6*10 Steering and suspension
5.20 Work the grease completely into the 5.22a Install the upper bearing and the
rollers steering stem O-ring
1 Stem bearing driver (tool no. 57001-137)
2 Adapter (tool no. 1074)
6 Rear shock absorber and
coil spring - removal and 4
installation ^
Installation
22 Insert the steering stem/lower triple clamp
into the steering head. Install the upper
bearing, O-ring, bearing cover and adjuster
nut (see illustrations). Using the spanner 6.4 Remove the shock-to-rocker arm nut
wrench (C-spanner), tighten the adjuster nut and bolt (1) and the rocker arm-to-tie rod
while moving the lower triple clamp back and 6.3 Hold the upper shock mounting bolt nut and bolt (2)
forth. Continue to tighten the nut, 1/8-turn at a (arrow), then loosen the nut on the other The upper end of the tie-rods are connected
time, until all play has been removed from the side to the swingarm by a bolt and nut (3)
Steering and suspension 6*11
7,4 Remove the nut and bolt which attach the rocker arm to the 7.5 Inspect the needle bearings inside the rocker arm
frame (arrow)
I5 Shock absorber/coil
spring assembly
Rocker arm pivot
6 bolt nut
7 Rocker arm pivot
bolt
8 Tie rod-to-rocker
arm bolt nut
9 Tie rod-to-rocker
arm bolt
7.6b Push the sleeves out of the rocker
10 Tie rod-to-swingarm
arm (shown) and the swingarm (not shown)
bolt nut
II Tie rod-to-swingarm
bolt
12 Tie rods
13 Rocker arm
14 Dust seals
15 Sleeves
16 Needle bearings
7.7 Knock out the old needle bearings with a hammer and punch 7.9 Be sure to coat the sleeves with moly-based grease before
installing them
7.10 Drive in the new needle bearings with a socket that just fits 7.11 Install new dust seals (arrows)
into the bore of the rocker arm
can also be driven out with a hammer and junction of the swingarm and the frame. TrytoJ
punch (see illustration). 8 Swingarm bearings - %> move the rear of the swingarm from side-tofl
8 Thoroughly wash all parts in clean solvent, check side. Any wear (play) in the bearings should t
then inspect both the sleeves and the felt as movement between the swingarm am
bearings for dryness, discoloration, excessive the frame at the front. The swingarm
wear and general deterioration. If either the 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7), actually be felt to move forward and backwan|
sleeves or the bearings are worn, replace then remove the rear shock absorber (see at the front (not from side-to-side). If any pte
them as a set. Section 6). is noted, the bearings should be replaced witlf|
9 Apply a thin coat of moly-based grease to 2 Grasp the rear of the swingarm with one new ones (see Section 10).
the sleeves before installing them (see hand and place your other hand at the 3 Next, move the swingarm up and dow
illustration). through its full travel. It should move freely;|
10 Pack the bearings with m oly-based without any binding or rough spots. If it doei
grease before installing them. You’ll need a not move freely, refer to Section 10 to
bearing driver set (Kawasaki tool no. 57001- servicing procedures.
1129 or a suitable equivalent) to install the
bearings. Or, install new bearing sets by
driving them in with a hammer and a socket of
the appropriate size (see illustration). 9 Swingarm -
11 Install the dust seals on either end of each removal and installation ,
sleeve and bearing set (see illustration);
make sure the seals are properly seated -
flush with the ends of the sleeves - or the 1 Raise the bike and set it on its centerstand.
rocker arm w on 't fit between the frame 2 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).
bracket or the tie rods. 3 Detach the torque arm from the swinga
12 Installation is otherwise the reverse of (see illustration). Support the rear brake
removal. Tighten all fasteners to the torque 9.3 To disconnect the torque arm from the caliper and torque arm with a piece of rope c
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. swingarm, remove this nut (arrow) and bolt wire - don’t let them hang by the brake hose,
Steering and suspension 6*13
10.3a Remove the collar(s) from the 10.3b Pry out the seals with a screwdriver 10.6 Make sure the seal faces are flush
grease seal(s) with the pivot boss of the swingarm
6*14 Steering and suspension
11 Suspension - adjustment
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable |k Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult, ^
novicewith little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY ^
experience some experience cS DIY mechanic mechanic ^ or professional ^
Specifications
Brakes
Brake fluid type
Dmodels......................................................................................................... DOT 3
I Emodels......................................................................................................... DOT 4
Brake pad minimum th ic k n e s s ........................................................................ 1 mm (3/64-inch)
Disc thickness
Dmodels
■ Front
f S tandard................................................................................................. 4.3 to 4.6 mm (0.1694 to 0.1812 inch)
Minimum* ............................................................................................... 4.0 mm (0.1576 inch)
I Rear
Standard................................................................................................. 5.8 to 6.1 mm (0.2285 to 0.2403 inch)
Minimum* ............................................................................................... 5.5 mm (0.2167 inch)
I E models
■ Front
\ S tandard................................................................................................. 3.8 to 4.2 mm (0.1497 to 0.1655 inch)
Minimum* .............................................................................................. 3.5 mm (0.1379 inch)
I Rear
i S tandard................................................................................................. 5.8 to 6.1 mm (0.2285 to 0.2403 inch)
I Minimum* .............................................................................................. 5.0 mm (0.197 inch)
Disc runout (front and rear, all models)
■^Standard......................................................................................................... 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch) or less
■Minimum......................................................................................................... 0.3 mm (0.0118 inch)
'Refer to marks stamped into the disc (they supersede information printed here)
7*2 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive
Final drive
Rear sprocket runout
S ta n d a rd ...................................................................................................... 0.4 mm (0.0158 inch) or less
Maximum .................................................................................................... 0.5 mm (0.020 inch)
Torque specifications
Axle nut (front and rear)
D m od els...................................................................................................... 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)
E m o d e ls .................................................................................................. 110 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Brake caliper bleeder s c re w ...................................................................... 7.8 Nm (69 in-lbs)
Brake hose banjo b o lts ............................................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
Brake disc-to-wheel bolts ........................................................................ .... 23 Nm (16.5 ft-lbs)
Front sprocket nut
D m o d e ls...................................................................................................... 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)
E m o d e ls...................................................................................................... 125 Nm (94 ft-lbs)
Front axle clamp bolts ............................................................................... 20 Nm (14.5 ft-lbs)
Front and rear caliper mounting bolts ..................................................... 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Front caliper assembly bolts .................................................................... 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
Master cylinder mounting bolts
F ro n t........................................................................................................ 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
R ear.......................................................................................................... 23 Nm (16.5 ft-lbs)
Rear sprocket n u ts ..................................................................................... 74 Nm (54 ft-lbs)
Torque arm bolt nut ................................................................................... 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
clean brake fluid or alcohol for cleaning. Note: If you are removing the caliper onlyto
1 General information Use care when working with brake fluid as remove the front or rear wheel or to replaceo|
it can injure your eyes and it will damage inspect the rear brake pads, don’t discon
painted surfaces and plastic parts. the hose from the caliper.
R em oval
The models covered by this manual are
equipped with hydraulic disc brakes on the 2 Brake caliper - removal, % Front caliper
front and rear. All models employ dual-piston overhaul and installation 1 Support the bike securely upright. Note:#
front calipers. D models employ dual-piston yo u ’re planning to disassemble the caliper,
rear calipers as well; E models use single read through the overhaul procedure, payt
piston rear calipers. particular attention to the steps involved lt\\
Warning: If a front caliper
A
All models are equipped with cast removing the pistons with compressed air.
aluminum wheels, which require very little indicates the need for an
overhaul (usually due to leaking you don’t have access to an air compressor,
maintenance and allow tubeless tires to be you can use the b ike ’s hydraulic system!oj
used. fluid or sticky operation), BOTH
front calipers should be overhauled and all loosen the pistons instead. To do this, rem
Caution: Disc brake components rarely old brake fluid flushed from the system. the pads and pum p the brake lever. Ifo
require disassembly. Do not disassemble Also, the dust created by the brake system piston comes out before the others, push it;
components unless absolutely necessary. may contain asbestos, which is harmful to back into its bore and hold it in with a C-clarm
If any hydraulic brake line connection in your health. Never blow it out with while pum ping the brake lever to free the'
the system is loosened, the entire system compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. remaining pistons.
should be disassembled, drained, cleaned An approved filtering mask should be 2 Note: Remember, if yo u ’re just removi
and then properly filled and bled upon worn when working on the brakes. Do not, the caliper to remove the front wheel, ign
reassembly. Do not use solvents on under any circumstances, use petroleum- this step. Disconnect the brake hose from t
internal brake components. Solvents will based solvents to clean brake parts. Use caliper. Remove the brake hose banjo fitti
cause seals to swell and distort. Use only brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only! bolt and separate the hose from the cali
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*3
(see illustrations). Discard the sealing overhaul the caliper, remove the caliper from pivot the caliper back and up slightly (to allow
washers. Plug the fitting or wrap a plastic bag the hanger. If you’re removing the caliper to the clamp to clear the sprocket) and place a
tightlyaround it to prevent excessive fluid loss replace the brake pads rather than overhaul C-clamp on the caliper as shown (see
andcontamination. the caliper, read the next Step before illustration). Position the clamp so that the
3 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts (see removing the caliper from the disc. pad on the end of the screw is seated directly
Illustration 2.2a). Lift off the caliper, being 7 If you’re planning to simply replace the against the back of the inner brake pad. When
careful not to strain or twist the brake hose if brake pads (rather than overhaul the caliper), you tighten the clamp, it pushes the piston
iPsstill connected. back into its bore so that the caliper can be
Rear caliper installed back over the disc with the new
(thicker) brake pads. Keep tightening the
4 If you’re removing the rear caliper but
clamp until the piston bottoms out. Note: This
leaving the brake hose connected, detach the
trick only works on E models with a single
brake hose from the clip on the torque arm
piston rear caliper. On D models with dual
(seeIllustrations).
piston rear calipers, yo u ’ll have to manually
5 Note: If you’re only removing the caliper to
depress the pistons after removing the caliper
replace brake pads or remove the wheel,
from the bike. Once the piston is depressed,
ignore this step. Disconnect the brake hose
remove the caliper. Be careful not to strain or
from the caliper. Remove the brake hose
twist the brake hose if it’s still connected.
banjo fitting bolt and separate the hose from
thecaliper (see illustration 2.2b). Discard the Overhaul
sealing washers. Plug the fitting or wrap a
plastic bag tightly around it to prevent Front caliper
excessive fluid loss and contamination. 2.7 Tighten the clamp to push the piston 8 Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle
6 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts (see into its bore so the caliper fits over the spring from the caliper (see Section 3). Clean
illustration 2.4a) and, if you’re planning to disc with the new pads the exterior of the caliper with rubbing alcohol
7*4 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive
2.8 Place rags in the brake pad cavity and apply a blast of 2.9 To separate the caliper halves, remove these four Allen bo
compressed air to break the pistons loose (arrows)
or brake system cleaner. Shove a couple of 9 Remove the four Allen bolts that hold the the upper seal is the dust seal and the Iowa
shop rags through the caliper and pop the caliper halves together and separate the seal is the piston seal. Also, be sure to ren
four pistons loose with a small burst of caliper (see illustration). the two small O-rings from the caliper ha
compressed air (see illustration). 10 If you were unsuccessful in loosening any They must be discarded and new ones us
Warning: Do NOT stick your of the pistons in Step 8, bolt a piece of wood during reassembly.
fingers in between the at least 10 mm thick to the mating surface of
A
12 Clean the pistons and the bores wit!
pistons when applying each caliper half to prevent the piston(s) from rubbing alcohol, clean brake fluid or braki
compressed air! flying out. The wood must block one of the system cleaner and blow dry them will
fluid inlets. Use compressed air, directed into filtered, unlubricated compressed air. Ins
the other fluid inlet, to remove the piston(s). the surfaces of the pistons for nicks and bui
Use only enough air pressure to ease the and loss of plating. Check the caliper bore
piston(s) out of the bore. If a piston is blown too. If surface defects are present, the calipei |
out forcefully, even with the wood in place, it must be replaced. If the caliper is in
may be damaged. Carefully remove each shape, the master cylinder should also I
piston from its bore (see illustration). checked.
Warning: Never place your
A
13 Lubricate the piston (lower) seals with
fingers in front of the piston in clean brake fluid and install them in thei
an attempt to catch or protect it grooves in the caliper bore. Make sure the]
when applying compressed air, seat completely and aren't twisted.
as serious injury could occur. 14 Lubricate the dust (upper) seals with del
11 Remove the piston seals (see brake fluid and install them in their groove
illustration), preferably with a wood or plastic making sure they seat correctly.
tool. If you do use a metal tool - and use it 15 Lubricate the pistons with clean brake flu!
2.10 Remove the pistons from their bores carelessly - you may cause bore damage. and install them into the caliper bores |
Note that there are two seals per piston bore: illustration). Carefully position each pistol
2.11 To avoid damage, use a pencil - or some other plastic or 2.15 Dip the piston in fresh brake fluid, then push it straight into
wooden tool - to remove the seals the bore with your thumbs
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*5
2.17a An exploded view of the rear brake caliper assembly 2.17b An exploded view of the rear brake caliper assembly
(D models) (E models)
1 Anti-rattle spring 8 Caliper 1 Retaining pin clip 8 Caliper
2 Inner brake pad 9 Caliper bleeder screw 2 Pad retaining pin 9 Bleeder screw
3 Outer brake pad 10 Bleeder screw caps 3 Inner brake pad 10 Bleeder screw cap
4 Caliper bracket 11 Dust seals 4 Outer brake pad 11 Anti-rattle spring
5 Pad support clips 12 Piston inserts 5 Caliper bracket 12 Piston
6 Slider pin boot 13 Pistons 6 Slider pin boot 13 Dust seal
7 Slider pin boot 14 Piston seals 7 Slider pin boot 14 Piston seal
squarewith the bore, then use your thumb to exterior of the caliper with rubbing alcohol or 19 If compressed air isn’t available,
push the piston all the way in until it’s brake system cleaner. Remove the caliper reconnect the caliper to the brake hose and
bottomed out. Don’t allow a piston to become bracket and the slider pin boots from the pump the brake lever or pedal until the
cockedin the bore. If it does, don’t try to force caliper (see illustrations). Remove the anti piston(s) are free.
H- gently work it back out, square it with the rattle spring (see illustration). 20 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the
tore, then push again with your thumb. 18 Place a few rags between the piston(s) dust seal(s) (see illustration 2.11). Metal tools
U Reassemble the caliper halves, using new and the caliper frame to act as a cushion, then may cause bore damage.
O-rings. use compressed air, directed into the fluid 21 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the
Rear caliper inlet, to remove the piston(s) (see illustration piston seal(s) from the groove in the caliper
Note: The following overhaul procedure 2.8). Use only enough air pressure to ease the bore.
depicts an E model single-piston rear caliper, piston(s) out of the bore. If a piston is blown 22 Clean the piston(s) and the bore(s) with
tut theprocedure for overhauling a D model out, even with the cushion in place, it may be denatured alcohol, clean brake fluid or brake
ml-piston caliper is essentially the same. If damaged. system cleaner and blow dry them with
m have trouble with a two-piston caliper Warning: Never place your filtered, unlubricated compressed air. Inspect
mhaul, refer to the accompanying exploded
m of the D model rear caliper.
17 Remove the brake pads from the caliper
|see Section 3, if necessary). Clean the
A fingers in front of the piston in
an attempt to catch or protect it
when applying compressed air,
as serious injury could occur.
the surfaces of the piston(s) for nicks and
burrs and loss of plating. Check the caliper
bore(s), too. If surface defects are present, the
caliper must be replaced. If the caliper is in
2.17c Pull the bracket out of the 2.17d . . . and remove the slider pin 2.17e Remove the anti-rattle spring
caliper. . . boots
7*6 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive
2.26 Bottom the piston in the caliper bore 2.27 Install the slider pin boots 2.28 Apply a thin coat of the specifie
- make sure it goes in straight grease to the slider pins on the calip
bracket
bad shape, the master cylinder should also be 26 Lubricate the piston(s) with clean brake bleed the system (see Section 8). Gheck
checked. fluid and install it into the caliper bore. Using leaks.
23 Temporarily reinstall the caliper bracket. your thumbs, push the piston all the way in 31 Check the operation of the
Make sure it slides smoothly in-and-out of the (see illustration), making sure it doesn’t get carefully before riding the motorcycle.
caliper. If it doesn’t, check the slider pins for cocked in the bore.
burrs or excessive wear, also check the slider 27 Install the slider pin boots (see
pin bores in the caliper for wear and scoring. illustration). 3 Brake pads - replacement
Replace the caliper bracket, the caliper, or 28 Apply a thin coat of silicone grease
both if necessary. designed for high-tem perature brake
24 Lubricate the piston seal(s) with clean applications to the slider pins on the caliper
brake fluid and install it in its groove in the bracket (see illustration). Install the caliper Warning: When replacing the
caliper bore. Make sure it isn’t twisted and
seats completely.
25 Lubricate the dust seal(s) with clean brake
fluid and install it in its groove, making sure it
bracket to the caliper and seat the boots over
the lips on the bracket.
Installation
A front brake pads always rep/a
the pads in BOTH calipers ■
never just on one side. Also, I
dust created by the brake system may
seats correctly. 29 Installation is the reverse of the removal contain asbestos, which is harmful toyow
steps, with the following additions: health. Never blow it out with compr
a) If you're installing a rear caliper, space the air and don’t inhale any of it. An appm
pads apart so the disc will fit between filtering mask should be worn when
them. working on the brakes.
b) Use new sealing washers on the brake 1 Unbolt the caliper (see Section 2)
hose fitting and position the protrusion on support it so that it’s not hanging by the bre
the fitting against the locating tab on the hose.
caliper (see illustration 2.2b).
c) Tighten the caliper mounting bolts and Front caliper
banjo fitting bolt to the torque listed in 2 Remove the pad cover (see illustration).
this Chapter’s Specifications. 3 Remove the clip from the pad pin, dep
d) On rear calipers, tighten the torque arm the pistons by wedging a pair of needle-i
bolt and nut to the torque listed in this pliers or some other suitable small hand I
Chapter’s Specifications and install a new between the old pads, and withdraw thepit
3.2 To get at the pads on either front cotter pin. (see illustrations). Pull the pads out of tl
caliper, remove the pad cover screws 30 Fill the master cylinder with the caliper opening (see illustrations).
(arrows) and the cover recommended brake fluid (see Chapter 1) and 4 Refer to Chapter 1 and inspect the pads.
3.3a To remove the brake pads, pull out 3.3b . . . insert pliers between the pads 3.3c . . . remove the retaining pin..
the retaining pin clip . . . and twist the pliers to depress the pistons
into their bores . . .
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*7
.. and remove the brake pads 3.10a Before removing the pads from the 3.10b . . . then pull out this pin
rear caliper, remove this retaining
pin clip . . .
1.11a To remove the inner pad from the rear caliper, pivot the 3.11b To remove the outer pad, push down (arrow) and pull the
free end up, then slide the pad off the pin pad edge out from under the bracket
5Check the condition of the brake discs (see essentially the same. If you have trouble with
Section 4). If they’re in need of machining or pad replacement on a two-piston caliper, refer 4 Brake disc(s) - inspection,
replacement, follow the procedure in that to the exploded view o f the D model rear rem oval and installation ^
Section to remove them. If they are okay, caliper in Section 2.
deglaze them with sandpaper or emery cloth, 9 Remove the caliper (see Section 2).
usinga swirling motion. 10 Remove the clip from the pad retaining
6 Remove the cap from the master cylinder pin and pull out the pin (see illustrations). Inspection
reservoir and siphon out some fluid. Push the 11 Pull the pads out of the caliper (see 1 Set the bike on its centerstand.
pistons into the caliper again, this time as far as illustrations). 2 Visually inspect the surface of the disc(s) for
possible, while keeping an eye on the master 12 Refer to Chapter 1 and inspect the pads. score marks and other damage. Light
cylinder reservoir fluid level to make sure it 13 Check the condition of the brake discs scratches are normal after use and won’t
doesn’t overflow. If you can’t depress the (see Section 4). If they’re in need of machining
pistons with thumb pressure, try pushing them or replacement, follow the procedure in that
down with a pair of pliers or some other small Section to remove them. If they are okay,
.tool. If the pistons stick, remove the caliper and deglaze them with sandpaper or emery cloth,
overhaul it as described in Section 2. using a swirling motion.
7Install the new pads, the retaining pin and 14 Remove the cap from the master cylinder
theclip. Install the pad cover. reservoir and siphon out some fluid. Push the
8 Operate the brake lever or pedal several pistons into the caliper as far as possible,
limes to bring the pads into contact with the while checking the master cylinder reservoir
disc. Check the operation of the brakes to make sure it doesn’t overflow. If you can’t
carefully before riding the motorcycle. depress the pistons with thumb pressure, try
using a C-clamp. If the pistons stick, remove
Rear caliper the caliper and overhaul it as described in
Note: The following pad replacement Section 2.
procedure depicts an E model single-piston 15 Install the new pads (see illustration), 3.15 When installing the pad that fits
rear caliper, but the procedure for changing retaining pin and clip. against the piston, be sure it’s properly
pads on a D model dual-piston caliper is 16 Install the caliper (see Section 2). engaged with the bracket
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*9
5,4 Loosen the banjo bolt at the master 5.5 Remove the pivot nut (1) and pull out 5.6 To detach the master cylinder from the
cylinder and disconnect the brake hose the bolt handlebar, remove these two Allen bolts
To remove the lever and adjuster as an (arrows)
assembly, remove nut (2), pull out the adjuster
5 Master cylinder (front) - |^> bolt and unplug the electrical connectors (3)
p removal, overhaul and Sifc Removal
1 installation fluid of the recommended type, some clean 3 Loosen, but do not remove, the screws
rags and internal snap-ring pliers. Note: To holding the reservoir cover in place.
11fthe master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if prevent damage to the paint from spilled 4 Pull back the rubber boot, loosen the banjo
Ihelever does not produce a firm feel when brake fluid, always cover the fuel tank when fitting bolt (see illustration) and separate the
thebrake is applied, and bleeding the brakes working on the master cylinder. brake hose from the master cylinder; discard
does not help, master cylinder overhaul is Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and both sealing washers - always use new
recommended. reassembly of the brake master cylinder washers when reattaching the banjo fitting.
2Before disassembling the master cylinder, must be done in a spotlessly clean work Wrap the end of the hose in a clean rag and
readthrough the entire procedure and make area to avoid contamination and possible suspend the hose in an upright position or
sure that you have the correct rebuild kit. failure of the brake hydraulic system bend it down carefully and place the open end
Also, you will need some new, clean brake in a clean container. The objective is to
r
components.
prevent excess loss of brake fluid, fluid spills
and system contamination.
5 Remove the locknut from the underside of
the lever pivot bolt, then unscrew the bolt
(see illustration).
6 Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts
(see illustration) and separate the master
cylinder from the handlebar.
Caution: Do not tip the master cylinder
upside down or brake fluid will run out.
7 Disconnect the electrical connectors from
the brake light switch (see illustration 5.5).
Overhaul
8 Detach the top cover and the rubber
Rubber boot diaphragm, then drain the brake fluid into a
Banjo bolt _ n suitable container. Wipe any remaining fluid
Sealing washers out of the reservoir with a clean rag.
Brake hose 9 Carefully remove the rubber dust boot from
Nut the end of the piston (see illustrations).
Brake lever pivot bolt
Brake lever
Clamp bolt
Clamp shell
Brake light switch
Reservoir cap
Diaphragm
Master cylinder body
Dust boot
Snap-ring
Piston assembly
Junction bolt
Junction
Brake hose retainer
5.10a . . . then depress the piston and 5.10b Lay out the old parts from the 5.12 Make sure the lips of the cupsfaceii
remove the snap-ring with a pair of master cylinder to help install the new the proper direction
snap-ring pliers parts correctly
10 Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap- seals do not turn inside out when they are the brake is applied, and bleeding the bral
ring (see illustrations) and slide out the slipped into the bore. does not help, master cylinder overhauls
piston, the cup seals and the spring. Lay the 14 Depress the piston, then install the snap- recommended.
parts out in the proper order to prevent ring (make sure the snap-ring is properly 2 Before disassembling the master cylind
confusion during reassembly. seated in the groove with the sharp edge read through the entire procedure and mi
11 Clean all of the parts with brake system facing out). Install the rubber dust boot (make sure that you have the correct rebuild I
cleaner (available at auto parts stores), sure the lip is seated properly in the piston Also, you will need some new, clean brate
rubbing alcohol or clean brake fluid. If groove). fluid of the recommended type, someclei
compressed air is available, use it to dry the rags and internal snap-ring pliers.
parts thoroughly (make sure it’s filtered and Installation Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and
unlubricated). Check the master cylinder bore 15 Attach the master cylinder to the reassembly of the brake master cylinder
for corrosion, scratches, nicks and score handlebar and tighten the bolts to the torque must be done in a spotlessly clean worit
marks. If damage is evident, the master listed in this C hapter’s Specifications. The area to avoid contamination and possible |
cylinder must be replaced with a new one. If arrow and the word “ UP” on the master failure of the brake hydraulic system
the master cylinder is in poor condition, then cylinder clamp should be pointing up and components.
the calipers should be checked as well. readable. Install the brake lever and tighten Removal
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, the pivot bolt locknut. 3 Set the bike on its centerstand. RemovetiK
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean 16 Connect the brake hose to the master right side cover (see Chapter 8).
brake parts. cylinder, using new sealing washers. Tighten 4 Remove the cotter pin from the clevis f
12 Remove the old cup seals from the piston the banjo fitting bolt to the torque listed in this on the master cylinder pushrod (s«
and spring and install the new ones. Make Chapter’s Specifications. illustration). Remove the clevis pin.
sure the lips face away from the lever end of 17 Reattach the brake light switch leads. 5 Remove the two master cylinder moun
the piston (see illustration). If a new piston is 18 Bleed the air from the system (see bolts (see illustration) and detach
included in the rebuild kit, use it regardless of Section 8). cylinder from the bracket.
the condition of the old one. 6 Have a container and some rags ready6
13 Before reassembling the master cylinder, catch spilling brake fluid. Using a pair (
soak the piston and the rubber cup seals in 6 Master cylinder (rear) - ^ pliers, slide the clamp up the fluid feed hoi
clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes. removal, overhaul and Sv and detach the hose from the master cylii*
Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean installation ^ (see illustration). Direct the end of the ho:
brake fluid, then carefully insert the piston and into the container, unscrew the cap on I
related parts in the reverse order of 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if master cylinder reservoir and allow the fluidtc
disassembly. Make sure the lips on the cup the pedal does not produce a firm feel when drain.
6.4 Remove the cotter pin (arrow) and 6.5 To detach the rear master cylinder 6.6 Loosen the hose clamp (A) and deta
remove the clevis pin that attaches the from its mounting bracket, remove these the hose, then unscrew the banjo bolt)
pushrod two Allen bolts (arrows)
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*11
6.8a Remove the snap-ring that secures 6.8b Remove the O-ring from the bore and 6.9a Hold the clevis with a pair of pliers
the fluid inlet fitting discard it and loosen the locknut
6.12 Make sure the lips of the cups (arrow) face away from the 7.2 Flex the brake hoses and check for cracks, bulges and
pushrod end of the piston leaking fluid
the master cylinder is in poor condition, then 20 Connect the clevis to the brake pedal and the casting protrusions on the component it
the caliper should be checked as well. secure the clevis pin with a new cotter pin. connected to, if equipped. Install the ban|
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, 21 Fill the fluid reservoir with the specified bolts, using new sealing washers on
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean fluid (see Chapter 1) and bleed the system sides of the fittings, and tighten them tot
brake parts. following the procedure in Section 8. Install torque listed in this Chapter’s Specific
12 Remove the old cup seals from the piston the side cover. If a threaded fitting is used instead of a bai
and spring and install the new ones. Make 22 Check the position of the brake pedal (see bolt, tighten it securely, again using a flaren
sure the lips face away from the pushrod end Chapter 1) and adjust it if necessary. Check wrench.
of the piston (see illustration). If a new piston the operation of the brakes carefully before 6 Flush the old brake fluid from the systei
is included in the rebuild kit, use it regardless riding the motorcycle. refill the system with the recommended flui
of the condition of the old one. (see Chapter 1) and bleed the air from I
13 Before reassembling the master cylinder, system (see Section 8). Check the operate
soak the piston and the rubber cup seals in
clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes.
7 Brake hoses and lines -
inspection and replacement i of the brakes carefully before riding
motorcycle.
Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean
brake fluid, then carefully insert the parts in
I
the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure
8 Brake system bleeding
the lips on the cup seals do not turn inside out Inspection
when they are slipped into the bore. 1 Periodically check the condition of the
14 Lubricate the end of the pushrod with brake hoses and fittings.
silicone grease designed for brake 2 Twist and flex the rubber hoses (see 1 Bleeding the brake is simply the proce
applications, and install the pushrod and stop illustration) while looking for cracks, bulges removing all the air bubbles from the braKt
washer into the cylinder bore. Depress the and seeping fluid. Check extra carefully fluid reservoir, the lines and the brake calip
pushrod, then install the snap-ring (make sure around the areas where the hoses connect Bleeding is necessary whenever a braia
the snap-ring is properly seated in the groove with the banjo fittings, as these are common system hydraulic connection is loosen
with the sharp edge facing out). Install the areas for hose failure. when a com ponent or hose is replaced,«
rubber dust boot (make sure the lip is seated 3 Inspect the metal lines connected to the when the master cylinder or caliper
properly in the groove in the piston stop nut). banjo fittings. If the plating on the lines is overhauled. Leaks in the system may;
15 Install the clevis on the end of the chipped or scratched, the lines may rust. If the allow air to enter, but leaking brake fluid \
pushrod, adjust the brake pedal height (see lines are rusted, scratched or cracked, reveal their presence and warn you of I
Chapter 1), then tighten the locknut. replace them. need for repair.
16 Install the feed hose fitting, using a new 2 To bleed the brake, you will need som
O-ring. Install the snap-ring, making sure it
Replacement new, clean brake fluid of the recommend
seats properly in its groove. 4 Most brake hoses have banjo fittings on type (see Specifications), a length of cl«
each end of the hose (front brakes, see vinyl or plastic tubing, a small contaim
Installation illustration 5.9a; rear brake hoses, see partially filled with clean brake fluid, sorr
17 Position the master cylinder on the frame illustration 6.10b). Cover the surrounding rags and a wrench to fit the brake calip
bracket, install the bolts and tighten them to area with plenty of rags and unscrew the bleeder valve.
the torque listed in this C hapter’s banjo bolts on either end of the hose. If a Warning: If you use a beverage
container, throw it away
A
Specifications. threaded fitting is used instead of a banjo bolt,
18 Connect the banjo fitting to the top of the use a flare nut wrench to loosen it. Detach the immediately after the bleeding
master cylinder, using new sealing washers hose from any clips that may be present and procedure so nobody
on each side of the fitting. Tighten the banjo remove the hose. accidentally drinks from it.
fitting bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s 5 Position the new hose, making sure it isn’t 3 Cover the fuel tank and other paint®
Specifications. tw isted or otherwise strained, between the components to prevent damage in the eve
19 Connect the fluid feed hose to the inlet two components. Make sure the metal tube that brake fluid is spilled.
fitting and install the hose clamp. portion of the banjo fitting is located between 4 Remove the reservoir cap or cover am
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*13
11.1 If the exhaust system has been removed, prop up the front 11.4a Loosen the axle clamp bolts (arrows) on both sliders (o
of the bike with a jack; use a block of wood to protect the oil pan fork tubes)
11.5a Pull out the axle from the right side 11.5b If the axle is difficult to remove, drive it out from the left
side with a hammer and punch
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*15
9
c /\
PI
Vu
Z \ "
r .»■
100 mm
12.7 Remove the wheel, allowing the chain 12.8 Check the axle for runout with a dial indicator and a set of V-blocks
to rest on the swingarm
Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and 14 Tighten the axle nut to the torque listed in
12 Wheel (rear) - allow it to rest on the disc or the sprocket - this Chapter’s Specifications. Install a
\ removal and installation Jk they could become warped. Set the wheel new cotter pin, tightening the axle nut an
on wood blocks so the disc or the sprocket additional amount, if necessary, to align the
doesn’t support the weight of the wheel. hole in the axle with the castellations on the
Do not operate the brake pedal with the nut.
Removal wheel removed. 15 Tighten the torque link nut to the torque
1 Set the bike on its c e n te rs ta n d . 8 Before installing the wheel, check the axle listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications.
2 Remove the chain guard (see Section 15). for straightness. If the axle is corroded, first 16 Check the operation of the brakes
3 Loosen the torque link nut (see illustration remove the corrosion with fine emery cloth. carefully before riding the motorcycle.
2.7inChapter 1). Set the axle on V-blocks and check it for
4Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut runout using a dial indicator (see illustration).
(see illustration 2.8 in Chapter 1) and If the axle exceeds the maximum allowable
removethe nut. runout limit listed in this Chapter’s 13 Wheel and rear coupling
5 Loosen the chain adjusting bolt locknuts Specifications, it must be replaced. bearings - inspection and ^
(see illustration 2.9 in Chapter 1) and fully 9 Check the condition of the wheel bearings maintenance ^
loosen both adjusting bolts. (see Section 13).
8Push the rear wheel as far forward as
possible. Lift the top of the chain up off the Installation Front wheel bearings
rear sprocket and pull it to the left while 10 Apply a thin coat of grease to the seal lips, 1 Support the bike securely and remove the
rotating the wheel backwards. This will then slide the spacers into their proper front wheel (see Section 11).
disengage the chain from the sprocket. positions on the sides of the hub. 2 Set the wheel on blocks so as not to allow
Warning: Don’t let your fingers 11 Slide the wheel into place, making sure the weight of the wheel to rest on the brake
slip between the chain and the the brake disc slides between the brake pads. disc.
sprocket If it doesn’t, spread the pads apart with a 3 From the left side of the wheel, remove the
7 Support the wheel and slide out the axle. piece of wood. snap-ring securing the speedometer drive and
Lower the wheel and remove it from the 12 Pull the chain up over the sprocket, raise remove the speedometer drive from the hub
swingarm (see illustration), being careful not the wheel and install the axle and axle nut. (see illustrations).
■tolosethe spacers on either side of the hub. If Don’t tighten the axle nut at this time. 4 Remove the spacer and pry out the grease
theaxle is stuck or difficult to remove, drive it 13 Adjust the chain slack (see Chapter 1) and seal from the right side of the wheel (see
out with a plastic hammer. tighten the adjuster locknuts. illustrations). Remove the bearing snap-ring
13.3a Lift out the speedometer drive unit 13.3b . . . to remove the speedometer 13.4a Lift the spacer out of the wheel
and remove the snap-ring (arrows). . . drive
7*16 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive
13.4b A screwdriver can be used to pry 13.4c Remove the snap-ring from the right 13.5 Once the snap-rings have been
out the seal if you don’t have a removal side of the wheel removed, drive the bearings from the hub
tool like this one with a brass drift
13.10 Install the speedometer drive and secure it with the 13.11 Apply a coat of grease to the lip of the seal
snap-ring
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*17
13.15a Remove the spacer. . . 13.15b . . . and lift the coupling out of the 13.16 Remove the snap-ring after the
wheel grease seal has been removed
15 Lift off the spacer and rear wheel coupling with high-quality bearing grease (see
(see illustrations). illustration 13.8).
16 Pry out the grease seal (s e e illu s t r a t io n 21 Drive the bearing into the coupling with a
13.4b) and remove the snap-ring from the bearing driver or socket that bears against the
sprocket side of the coupling (s e e outer race of the bearing.
illustration). 22 Install the snap-ring to secure the bearing,
17 Turn the wheel over and remove the making sure it fits securely in its groove.
coupling collar from the other side of the hub Install the collar on the other side of the
(see illustration). coupling.
18 Drive the bearing out of the coupling with 23 Coat the lip of a new grease seal with
a bearing driver or drift punch (see grease and install it on top of the snap-ring
illustration). Drive out the coupling bearing (see illustration). It should go in with thumb
only if it will be replaced; removal requires pressure, but if not, tap it in with a hammer
driving against the inner race, which may and socket, bearing driver or flat piece of
13.17 Lift out the coupling collar
damage the bearing wood. Install the coupling and spacer in the
19 If the bearings are open on one or both wheel and install the wheel (see Section 12).
sides, clean the bearing with a high flash 27 Lay the wheel on its other side and
point solvent (one which won’t leave any Rear wheel bearings remove the remaining bearing using the same
rasidue), blow it dry with compressed air 24 Pry out the grease seal on the brake disc technique.
(don't let the bearing spin as you dry it) and side of the wheel (see illustration 13.4b). 28 Clean the bearings with a high flash-point
apply a few drops of oil to the bearing. On all 25 Remove the snap-ring from beneath the solvent (one which won’t leave any residue)
bearings (open or sealed), hold the outer race grease seal with snap-ring pliers (see and blow them dry with compressed air (don’t
of the bearing and rotate the inner race - illustration 13.4c). let the bearing spin as you dry them). Apply a
if the bearing doesn’t turn smoothly, has 26 Using a metal rod (preferably a brass drift few drops of oil to the bearing. Hold the outer
rough spots or is noisy, replace it with a new punch) inserted through the center of the hub race of the bearing and rotate the inner race -
one. bearing, tap evenly around the inner race of if the bearing doesn’t turn smoothly, has
20 If the bearing checks out okay and will be the opposite bearing to drive it from the hub rough spots or is noisy, replace it with a new
reused, wash it in solvent once again and dry (see illustration 13.5). The bearing spacer will one.
It, then pack the bearing from the open side also come out. 29 If the bearing checks out okay and will be
13.18 Drive out the coupling bearing 13.23 Press in the new grease seal
7*18 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive
15.1 Remove shift lever (A) and four bolts (arrows) to release
13.33 Press the seal into the hub with your thumbs sprocket cover - bolt (B) also secures carburetor warmer hose on
later UK models
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*19
16.4 Measure rear sprocket runout with a 16.6a To remove the countershaft 16.6b . . . and loosen the sprocket nut with
dial indicator sprocket, flatten the folded-up sides of the the transmission in first gear and someone
lockwasher. . . applying firm pressure to the rear brake
pedal
Caution: Don’t use gasoline or other condition, but the sprocket is warped, you 10 When installing the engine sprocket, make
Cleaning fluids. Remove the chain, wipe it may be able to get away with just replacing sure the raised hub faces toward the engine
offthen blow dry it with compressed air the rear sprocket. case. Install a new lockwasher, apply a non
immediately. The entire process shouldn’t 5 Check the wear pattern on the sprockets hardening thread locking compound to the
takelonger than ten minutes - if it does, (see illustration 2.5 in Chapterl). If the threads on the end of the countershaft, then
theO-rings in the chain rollers could be sprocket teeth are worn excessively, replace tighten the nut to the torque listed in this
damaged. the chain and sprockets. Chapter’s Specifications.
6 If you’re planning to remove the 11 Install the engine sprocket cover and shift
Installation countershaft sprocket, place the transmission lever (see Section 15).
J Installation is the reverse of the removal in first gear, flatten the folded edges of the
procedure. Tighten the suspension fasteners lockwasher (see illustration), then have an
lo the torque listed in the Chapter 6 assistant apply the rear brake while you 17 Coupling/rubber damper |%
Specifications. Tighten the engine sprocket loosen the sprocket nut (see illustration). (rear wheel) - check and
cover bolts and the rear axle nut to the torque 7 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7). replacement gQ
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 8 To replace the rear sprocket, unscrew the
8 Connect the shift lever to the shift shaft, nuts holding it to the wheel coupling and lift 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).
lining up the marks. If it’s installed correctly, the sprocket off. When installing the sprocket, 2 Lift the spacer and rear sprocket/rear wheel
the link rod should be parallel to the shift apply a non-hardening thread locking coupling from the wheel (see illustrations
pedal. compound to the threads of the studs. 13.15a and 13.15b).
9 Lubricate the chain (see Chapter 1). Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this 3 Lift the rubber damper (see illustration)
Chapter’s Specifications. Also, check the from the wheel and check it for cracks,
condition of the rubber damper under the rear hardening and general deterioration. Replace
16 Sprockets -
check and replacement n wheel coupling (see Section 17).
9 Remove the sprocket retaining nut and pull
it with a new one if necessary.
4 Checking and replacement procedures for
the countershaft sprocket and chain off the the coupling bearing are in Section 13.
shaft (see illustration), then separate the 5 Installation is the reverse of the removal
1Set the bike on its centerstand. sprocket from the chain. procedure.
2 Whenever the drive chain is inspected, the
sprockets should be inspected also. If you are
replacing the chain, replace the sprockets as
well. Likewise, if the sprockets are in need of
replacement, install a new chain also.
3 Remove the engine sprocket cover (see
Section 15).
4 Attach a dial indicator to the swingarm, with
the plunger of the indicator touching the
sprocket near its outer diameter (see
Illustration). Turn the wheel and measure the
runout. If the runout exceeds the maximum
runout listed in this Chapter’s Specifications,
replace the rear sprocket. As stated before,
it's a good idea to replace the chain and the 16.9 Note the difference between the outer 17.3 To remove the rubber coupling
sprockets as a set. However, if the and inner faces; the inner face (not visible) damper, simply pull it out of the wheel
components are relatively new or in good
has a raised hub
Chapter 8
Fairing, bodywork and frame
Contents
Fairing(lower) - removal and installation........................................... 2 Frame rear section (D models) - removal and installation.................14
Fairing(middle) panels (E models only) - removal and Fuel tank - removal and installation............................... See Chapter 4
■Installation...................................................................................... 3 General inform ation............................................................................. 1
Fairing(upper) - removal and installation ......................................... 6 Mirrors - removal and installation...................................................... 5
Fender/mudguard (front) - removal and installation ......................... 9 Seat - removal and installation ..................................... ................... 7
fender/mudguard (rear) - removal and installation...........................10 Sidestand and centerstand - m aintenance.................i T 77.X ..........12
lllbotpegs and brackets - removal and installation ........................... 11 Side covers - removal and installation ............................. .. s .. 8
frame- inspection and re p a ir............................................................ 13 Windscreen - removal and installation ..................................... .. r r . 4
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for C .. Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, |x Difficult, suitable for Very difficult, \
novicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY
(.experience ^ some experience ^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional ^
idea to check with local shops before designs. Both are square-section aluminum
1 General inform ation discarding the damaged part. tubing, but D models have a detachable
If you decide to replace the damaged body subframe, while E models use a one-piece
part, first try to find a used part at a design. Like the bodywork, the two frames are
motorcycle salvage yard. If you’re successful, NOT inter-changeable.
the part should be half as much as a new part. In the event that the bike is involved in a
Body parts
If the used part needs to be repainted to major accident, the frame may be damaged. If
Many service and repair operations on match your bike's colors, get an estimate on so, check with your local dealer and find out
tee motorcycles require removal of the what it will cost to have it repainted, then
fairingand/or other body parts. This Chapter whether someone in your area specializes in
compare the price for the used part plus the
covers the removal and installation of these frame straightening. This is a highly
cost of painting it with the retail price for the
parts(see illustrations on pages 8»2-8»6). specialized craft and there aren’t many shops
same new (already painted) part. And don’t try
If the fairing or any other body part is to swap D model body parts with E model which can perform this job, but it’s often
damaged, it must be repaired or replaced. But body parts. They’re NOT interchangeable! considerably less expensive to have the old
tieplastic used to construct the fairing and frame straightened than it is to buy a new
parts cannot be repaired using Frames frame. And if the work is done by a reputable
intional repair techniques. Some shops The two models covered by this manual shop, the straightened frame will be as good
ilize in “plastic welding” , so it’s a good use similar, but slightly different, frame as new.
8*2 Fairing, bodywork and frame
1.1a An exploded view of the frame and fairing assemblies and related components (D models)
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8*3
1.1b An exploded view of the subframe, side covers, rear fender and related components (D models)
8*4 Fairing, bodywork and frame
1.1c An exploded view of the frame assembly and related components (E models)
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8*5
1.1d An exploded view of the fairing assembly and related hardware (E models)
8*6 Fairing, bodywork and frame
1.1e An exploded view of the front and rear fenders, side covers and related components (E models)
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8*7
Remove the cover screws from each side of the bike (E model 1.8 Pull the cover forward to clear the tabs and remove the cover
shown) (E model shown)
Remove the screws (arrow) that attach the lower fairing to the 2.10 To detach the rear ends of the two lower fairing halves from
frame (E model shown) the bike, remove these bolts (arrows)
4 Remove the lower fairing screws and bolts fairing to the bracket under the exhaust pipe
Fairing (lower) - (see illustration 2.9). (see illustration).
removal and installation 5 Carefully maneuver the fairing out from 11 Remove the bolts that attach the lower
under the bike. fairing to the bracket behind the front wheel
6 Installation is the reverse of removal. (see illustration).
12 Remove the three screws from the front
Dmodels E models piece of the lower fairing (see illustration).
Set the bike on its centerstand. 7 Remove the cover screws (see illustration). 13 Carefully maneuver the lower fairing out
the reflector and the cover screws 8 Pull the cover forward to clear the tabs (see from under the bike (see illustration); don’t
jseeillustration 2.7). illustration) and remove the cover. forget that the tabs for the lower fairing halves
3Pull the cover forward to clear the 9 Remove the screws that attach the lower are installed on top of the tabs for the fairing
taos and remove the cover (see illus fairing to the frame (see illustration). middle panels.
ion 2.8). 10 Remove the bolts that attach the lower 14 Installation is the reverse of removal.
2.11 To detach the forward ends of the 2.12 To detach the lower fairing halves
lower fairing halves, remove these two from the front piece, remove these three 2.13 Carefully maneuver the lower fairing
bolts (arrows) screws (arrows) assembly off the bike
8*8 Fairing, bodywork and frame
3.2 To detach the trailing edge of the middle fairing panel, 3.3 To detach the upper edge of the middle panel, remove
remove this screw five screws (arrows) and the reflector
4 Remove the middle fairing panels. panel surrounding the instrument cluster (see
3 Fairing (middle) panels (E 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustrations). Remove the panel and the
models only) - removal and windscreen together (see illustration). (WhileI
installation ^ it’s not impossible to remove the windscr
4 Windscreen - by itself - without removing the trim
1 Remove the lower fairing (see Section 2).
removal and installation ^ the upper fairing and the trim panel grip
2 Remove the retaining screw from the back windscreen so tightly that it’s very
of the panel (see illustration). remove the old windscreen, or install an
3 Remove the screws (five on each side) that 1 Remove the screws securing the one, without damaging it.)
attach the middle fairing panels to the upper windscreen to the fairing (see illustration). 3 Installation is the reverse of the remo
fairing (see illustration). 2 Remove the screws that attach the trim procedure. Be sure each screw has a
4.1 To detach the windscreen from the 4.2a To detach the instrument cluster trim 4.2b . . . and this screw, both on the left
upper fairing, remove these screws panel from the fairing on a D model, s id e . . .
(arrows) (E model shown) remove this screw . . .
4.2f Remove the windscreen and the instrument cluster trim 5.1 To detach either mirror from the upper fairing, remove these
panel, then separate them (E model shown) two nuts (arrows) (E model shown)
sher under its head. Tighten the screws 6 Unplug the electrical connectors for the headlight and the turn signals (see
eurely, but be careful not to overtighten headlight and turn signals. illustration).
n, as the windshield might crack. 7 Remove the cooling duct screws (located 18 Remove the upper fairing assembly.
up inside the cooling ducts on either side of 19 Installation is the reverse of removal.
the upper fairing). Brake junction pipe/horn access panel
Mirrors - 8 Carefully pull the fairing forward and off the
removal and installation IS 20 The small access panel underneath the
bike (see illustration 1.1a). It may be
upper fairing allows access to the brake
necessary to spread the lower sides of the
crossover pipe (see Chapter 7) and the horn
fairing to clear the frame as you do this.
(see Chapter 9). To remove this panel, simply
1Remove the nuts from the two mirror 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.
remove the four retaining screws. Installation
mounting studs (see illustration).
2Remove the mirror E models is the reverse of removal.
3Installation is the reverse of removal. 10 Set the bike on its centerstand.
11 Remove the lower fairing (see Section 2).
12 Remove the left and right trim panels
Fairing (upper) - between the fairing and the tank (see
removal and installation illustrations).
13 Remove the windscreen and the
instrument cluster trim panel (see
illustrations 4.2e and 4.2f).
Dmodels 14 Remove the rear view m irrors (see
1Set the bike on its centerstand. Section 5).
2Remove the lower fairing (see Section 2). 15 Remove the rear fairing mounting screws
4Remove the left and right trim panels (see (see illustration 3.2).
lustrations 4.2a, 4.2b, 4.2c and 4.2d). 16 Loosen the hose clamps for the ram air
Remove the windscreen (see Section 4). ducts, slide them back and detach the ducts
Remove the rear view mirrors (see from the rubber hose (see illustration). 6.12a To remove the left trim panel on
!tlon 5) 17 Unplug the electrical connectors for the E models, remove these screws (arrows)
6,12b To remove the right trim panel on E 6.16 Loosen this hose clamp, slide it back 6.17 Unplug the electrical connectors for
models, remove these screws (arrows) and detach the hose from the ram air duct the headlight and turn signals (arrows)
(E models)
8*10 Fairing, bodywork and frame
8.3b . . . this screw on the side of the cover . . . 8.3c . . . these two screws (don’t lose the cargo hooks!)...
8.3d . . . this screw (arrow), which is 8.3e and this screw at the inner end of 8.3f Before removing the side cover on
located underneath the tail lig h t. . . the panel (arrow) E models, unplug the connector for the
turn signal light
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8»11
9 F e n d e r/m u d g u a rd (fro n t) -
removal and installation
11.9 To remove the right footpeg and 11.12 To remove either passenger footpeg
bracket from the frame, remove these two bracket, remove the two Allen head bolts
Allen head bolts
shift pedal pivot bolt, and be sure to line up
the matchmarks on the shift lever and shift 12 Sidestand and centerstand - %
shaft. The link rod should be parallel to the maintenance
shift pedal.
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ Fairly easy, suitable | k Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult,
Inovicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent experienced DIY 3^ suitable for expert DIY ^
|<Kperience % some experience DIY mechanic ^ mecnanic ^ or professional ^
Specifications
.............................................................................................................. 12 volt, 12Ah (amp hours)
cific gravity
I Fully charged ............................................................................................ ..... 1-280 at 68° F
Pnim um .......................................................................................................... 1.260 at 68° F
ging rate (E models)
I Standard c h a rg e ........................................................................................ ..... 1.2 amps for 5 to 10 hours
j Quick charge.............................................................................................. ..... 5.0 amps for 1 hour
Charging system
larging voltage
IRegulator/rectifier output v o lta g e .................................................................14 to 15 volts
[Alternator output voltage .............................................................................. 45 volts
itor coil resistance .........................................................................................0.2 to 0.6 ohms
9*2 Electrical system
Starter m otor
Brush length
S ta n d a rd .......................................................................................................11.6 to 12.4 mm (0.4570 to 0.4886 inch)
M in im u m .......................................................................................................8.5 mm (0.3349 inch)
Commutator diameter
S ta n d a rd .......................................................................................................27.8 to 28.1 mm (1.0953 inches)
M in im u m .......................................................................................................27 mm (1.0638 inches)
Fuse ratings
Main fuse .........................................................................................................30A
Circuit fuses - D models and E1, E2 models
Accessory fu s e ....................................................................................... .....10A
Fan fuse .......................................................................................................10A
Headlight fu s e ......................................................................................... .....10A
T a illig h t.........................................................................................................10A
Circuit fuses - E3-on models
Accessory f u s e ....................................................................................... .....10A
Fan fuse .......................................................................................................10A
Turn signal fu s e ....................................................................................... .....10A
Horn fuse .....................................................................................................10A
Ignition fuse ........................................................................................... .....10A
Headlight fu s e ......................................................................................... .....10A
T a illig h t.........................................................................................................10A
Torque specifications
Alternator rotor bolt ................................................................................... .... 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs)
Alternator stator b o lts ..................................................................................... 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
Alternator cover b o lts ..................................................................................... 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
Oil pressure s w itc h ..................................................................................... .... 15 Nm (132 in-lbs)
Neutral s w itc h ............................................................................................. .... 15 Nm (132 in-lbs)
4 Battery - charging
5.1a To get at the fuses inside the junction box, remove the 5.1b This junction box is on an E model, under the seat, on 1
plastic cover by pulling up on either end the rear fender/mudguard
16 Start charging at a high voltage setting (no 21 When the battery is fully charged, unplug fingertips, use a pair of needle-nose pliers. A
more than 25 volts) and watch the ammeter the charger first, then disconnect the leads blown fuse is easily identified by a break inthe
for about 5 minutes. If the charging current from the battery. Wipe off the outside of element (see illustration).
doesn’t increase, replace the battery with a the battery case and install the battery in the 4 If a fuse blows, be sure to check the wirlng|
new one. bike. harnesses very carefully for evidence of!
17 When the charging current increases short circuit. Look for bare wires and chafe
beyond the specified maximum, reduce the melted or burned insulation. If a fuse i
charging voltage to reduce the charging 5 Fuses - replaced before the cause is located, ther
current to the rate listed in this Chapter’s check and replacement fuse will blow immediately.
Specifications. Do this periodically as the 5 Never, under any circumstances, use I
battery charges. higher rated fuse or bridge the fuse bio
18 Allow the battery to charge for the 1 The fuses are located under the seat, in the terminals, as damage to the electrical
specified time listed in this Chapter’s junction box. The fuses are protected by a could result.
Specifications. If the battery overheats or plastic cover (see illustration) which snaps 6 Occasionally a fuse will blow or causean
gases excessively, the charging rate is too on and off. The junction box (see illustration) open circuit for no obvious reason.
high. Either disconnect the charger or lower fuses (see Specifications for details) protect
the charging rate to prevent damage to the individual circuits from damage caused by Corrosion of the fuse ends
battery. short circuits. A couple of spare 10A fuses are HAYNES
and fuse block terminals
19 After the specified time, unplug the included for roadside repairs. may occur and cause poor
charger first, then disconnect the leads from 2 If you have a test light, the fuses can be fuse contact. If this
the battery. checked without removing them. Turn the happens, remove the corrosion with a
20 Wait 30 minutes, then measure voltage ignition to the On position, connect one end of wire brush or emery paper, then spray
between the battery terminals. If it’s 12.6 volts the test light to a good ground, then probe the fuse end and terminals with
or higher, the battery is fully charged. If it’s each terminal on top of the fuse. If the fuse is electrical contact cleaner.
between 12.0 and 12.6 volts, charge the good, there will be voltage available at both
battery again (refer to this Chapter’s terminals. If the fuse is blown, there will only
Specifications and illustration 4.13 for charge be voltage present at one of the terminals.
rate and time). If it’s less than 12.0 volts, it's 3 The fuses can be removed and checked
time for a new battery. visually. If you can’t pull the fuse out with your 6 Junction box - check
1 -2 0
■1 - 3B 0
6 -7 0
©
6 -1 7 0
•8 -1 7
7
00
oo
t
('): US, Canada Models only
Diode circuit check 8 Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and much in the other direction. If the readings for
check the resistances again, writing down the any pair of terminals are low or high in both
6Remove the junction box by sliding it out of readings. The resistances should be low in directions, a diode is defective and the
Its holder. Unplug the electrical connectors one direction and more than ten times as junction box must be replaced.
fromthe box.
7Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance
to s s the following pairs of terminals, then
Wriledown the readings.
're are the terminal pairs to be checked:
13and 8 (US and Canadian models only)
13and 9 (US and Canadian models only) ©
12and 14
15and 14 ©
16and 14
1 - 1A
1 -2
3A - 4 ©
6 -5
6-10
6 -7 © @ © @ > © © @ © (7 ) © (H )
6-17
&
Tester Connection Tester Reading ( f l )
1A-8
2-8
3A - 8
6-2 6.4d Junction box circuit - E3-on models
6 - 3A 10 amp accessory fuse E 10 amp ignition fuse J Starter circuit relay
17-3A B 10 amp fan fuse F 10 amp headlight fuse K Diodes for interlock circuit
C 10 amp turn signal relay G Headlight relay* L 10 amp taillight fuse
6.4c Fuse test connections - fuse H Headlight diodes* *US and Canada only
E3-on models D 10 amp horn fuse I Starter diode
9*6 Electrical system
R e la y C ir c u it I n s p e c tio n ( w it h th e b a t t e r y d is c o n n e c te d )
T
w i
Relay
CO
Not oo ”
Headlight *7-8 00
Relay *7 - 13 00
Tester Connection Tester Reading (Q)
Starter 11 - 13 00
9 -1 1 00
Relay 12 - 13 oo
Starter Circuit 12 - 13 00
Relay (+ ) (")
13 - 11 00
Relay Circuit Inspection
(+ ) (-)
(with the battery connected) 12 - 11 Not oo • '
Battery Meter
Meter
Connection Reading R e la y C ir c u it In s p e c tio n ( w ith th e b a t t e r y c o n n e c te d )
*9 - 13 0
-j
Relay
(+) (")
Starter Circuit Relay 11 - 12 13 - 1 1 Not oo "
Starter Relay 11 - 13 11 - 12 0
( ') : US, Canada, and Australia Models only
( “ ): The actual reading varies w ith the hand tester used.
(*) : US, Canada Models only (+ ): Apply tester positive lead.
( - ) : Apply tester negative lead.
6.10a Junction box relay check - D models and E1, E2 models 6.10b Junction box relay check - E3-on models
With the junction box unplugged, there should be infinite resistance With the junction box unplugged, there should be infinite resistance
between the indicated terminals and no resistance (continuity) when between the indicated terminals and no resistance (continuity) when
battery voltage is applied battery voltage is applied
8.2 Grasping the tab at the bottom of the dust cover, carefully 8.3a To unlock the bulb holder, release the wire retainer . . .
peel the cover off
8.3b ... then remove the bulb holder from 9.2 To remove the headlight assembly 10.4 To adjust horizontally, turn the screw
its socket from the fairing, remove these four bolts (left arrow); to adjust vertically, turn the
(arrows) knob (right arrow)
9*8 Electrical system
11.1a To detach a front turn signal 11.1b To detach a rear turn signal lens, 11.2a To remove a bulb holder from I
assembly, remove this screw (arrow) remove this screw (E model shown) front turn signal assembly, turn it
(E model shown) counterclockwise and pull out
located at the lower right corner of the in and turn the bulb clockwise until it locks in clean it if necessary. Line up the pins on t
headlight assembly, to raise or lower the place. Note: The pins on the bulb are offset so new bulb with the slots in the socket, |
beam. it can only be installed one way. and turn the bulb clockwise until it locksii
6 Install the instrument cluster and trim panel. place. It is a good idea to use a paper towel c
It is a good idea to use a dry cloth when handling the new bulb1
HAYNES
paper towel or dry cloth increase bulb life and to prevent injury li t
11 Turn signal and tail light § when handling a new bulb to bulb breaks. Note: The pins on the bulb <
bulbs - replacement *§§ prevent injury if the bulb offset so it can only be installed one way.
should break, and to 7 Make sure the rubber gaskets are in pla
increase bulb life. and in good condition, then line uptheta
on the holder with the slots in the housing 2
Turn signal bulbs push the holder into the mounting hole.'
1 If you’re replacing a front turn signal bulb, 3 Position the lens on the turn signal housing clockwise until it stops to lock it in placi
remove the retaining screw from the lens (see and install the screw. Be careful not to Note: The tabs and slots are two differ
illustration) and pull out the turn signal overtighten it. sizes so the holders can only be installed c
assembly. If you're replacing a rear turn signal way.
bulb, remove the lens retaining screw (see Tail light/brake light bulbs 8 Install the seat.
illustration) and remove the lens. Note: There are actually two tail light/brake
2 To remove a front turn signal bulb, remove light bulbs. They're both replaced the same
License plate light bulb
the bulb holder (see illustration), then way. 9 Remove the license plate lens retainir
remove the bulb from the holder by pushing 4 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8). screws (see illustration).
the bulb in and turning it counterclockwise. 5 Turn the bulb holder counterclockwise (see 10 Turn the bulb counterclockwise unti
Rear turn signal bulbs can be removed from illustration) until it stops, then pull straight stops, then pull straight out to remove it fro
the holder without removing the holder from out to remove it from the tail light housing. the housing.
the turn signal assembly (see illustration). The bulb can be removed from its holder by 11 Installation is the reverse of removal. 8
Check the socket terminal for corrosion and turning it counterclockw ise and pulling sure to install the lens so that the "TOP" ma
clean them if necessary. Line up the pins on straight out. on the lens faces up. And don’t overtightei
the new bulb with the slots in the socket, push 6 Check the socket terminal for corrosion and the lens retaining screws.
11.2b To remove a rear turn signal bulb from a holder, push it in, 11.5 To replace a tail light/brake light bulb, push in and I
turn it counterclockwise and pull it out counterclockwise, then pull out
Electrical system 9*9
13.3 The turn signal relay (flasher) is 13.8 Lift up the relay to free it from its 14.6 Unplug the connectors (A) from the
behind (D models) or ahead of (E models) rubber mounting, then unplug it from the switch, then remove the switch retaining
the battery base (E model shown) screw (B)
9*10 Electrical system
14.10 Disengage the lower end of the rear brake light switch 14.11 Back off the adjuster nut (arrow) and unscrew the switch
spring from the brake pedal spring from its bracket
illustration 14.6) and detach the switch from relay and fuel level warning light relay on D 11 Loosen the adjuster nut (see illustratio
the master cylinder. models; below the IC igniter on E models) and and unscrew the switch.
8 Installation is the reverse of removal unplug the connector. (On E models, you’ll 12 Installation is the reverse of removal. Ma
procedure. have to unbolt the IC igniter to reach the sure the switch spring is properly engag
connector.) with the switch plunger (see illustration).
Rear brake pedal switch 10 Disengage the switch return spring from 13 Adjust the switch (see Chapter
9 Trace the electrical leads (brown and the brake pedal return spring (see Section 10).
blue/red on D models; brown and blue on E illustration). (The switch return spring is the
models) from the top of the switch to the little spring; the brake pedal return spring is
electrical connector (below the fuel sensor the bigger spring.) 15 Instrument cluster -
removal and installation
15.2b Unscrew the threaded ferrule and 15.3 Remove the instrument cluster 15.4 To remove the mounting bracket
disconnect the speedometer cable from mounting bolts (arrow) from the old cluster, remove these bolt
the speedometer (arrows) and washers
Electrical system 9*11
16.5a Before removing the cover from the instrument cluster, 16.5b To remove the cover from the instrument cluster, remove
unscrew the trip reset knob these four screws (large arrows)
To remove the fuel level gauge, the coolant temperature gauge, the
speedometer or the tachometer, label the leads and remove the
retaining screws (small arrows)
9*12 Electrical system
12 V Battery
17.9 Connect a 12-volt battery and two bulbs, and count how 17.13 Hook up an ohmmeter (1) and 12-volt battery (2) and seled
many times the lights flash in one minute the 1-ohm scale on your ohmmeter
Electrical system 9*13
17.16 The low fuel level rectifier (A) is 17.20 Remove these bolts (arrows) and pull 17.21 Measure the resistance of the fuel
inside the
upper left corner of the upper the sensor assembly out level sensor at the empty and full positions
fairing
14 If the relay doesn’t operate as described, present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, 23 If the sensor fails either test, replace it. Be
place it. wear latex gloves when there’s a sure to tighten the bolts securely, but don't
Rectifier check possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if overtighten them.
Note: This device, which is part o f the low fuel you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
level warning system on D models, is actually immediately with soap and water. Mop up
tidiode. “Rectifier" is Kawasaki's term. any spills immediately and do not store 18 Instrument and warning light ^
Remove the upper inner trim panels fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. bulbs - replacement jp
etween the upper fairing and the fuel tank) When you perform any kind of work on the
[ andthe windscreen (see Chapter 8). fuel system, wear safety glasses and have
16 Pull the rectifier (see illustration) out of a fire extinguisher suitable for a class B 1 Remove the instrument cluster (see
i main wiring harness. type fire (flammable liquids) on hand. Section 15).
17 Zero your ohmmeter and hook it up to 19 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). 2 To replace a bulb, pull the appropriate
|;each terminal of the rectifier and check the Drain the fuel into an approved fuel container. rubber socket out of the back of the
resistance in both directions. Resistance 20 Remove the sending unit mounting bolts instrument cluster housing (see illustration),
fshould be low in one direction and more than (see illustration) and remove the sending unit then pull the bulb out of the socket (see
[10times as much in the other direction. illustration). If the socket contacts are dirty or
from the tank - be extremely careful not to
18 If your ohmmeter indicates high or low corroded, they should be scraped clean and
bend or damage the sensor arm or float.
resistance in both directions, replace the sprayed with electrical contact cleaner before
21 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
[ rectifier. new bulbs are installed.
resistance across the terminals of the sensor
3 Carefully push the new bulb into position,
Emodels electrical connector (see illustration). With
then push the socket into the cluster housing.
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is the float in the full position, the resistance
18.2a To remove a bulb holder from the instrument, simply pull 18.2b To remove a bulb from a holder, simply pull the bulb
the holder straight out straight out
9»14 Electrical system
19.2a The oil pressure switch (arrow) is on 19.2b Disconnect the wire, turn on the 20.2 Unplug the electrical connector
the left side of the engine, in front of the ignition main (key) switch and ground the (arrow) for the ignition main (key) switch
water pump end of the wire
I GN I T IONS
TB I I 2
c o lo r
OFF, LOCK
20.3a Continuity table for the ignition main (key) switch terminals 20.3b Continuity table for the ignition main (key) switch terminals
(US and Canadian models) (UK models)
2 If the oil level is correct, disconnect the wire the terminal pairs indicated in the ignition the shear-head bolts in a counterclockwise
from the oil pressure switch (see illustration). switch continuity table (see illustrations). direction to unscrew them. If they’re too tight
Turn on the ignition main (key) switch on and Continuity should exist between the terminals and won’t turn, carefully drill holes through the
ground the end of the wire (see illustration). If connected by a solid line when the switch is in centers of the bolts and unscrew them usinga
the light comes on, the oil pressure switch is the indicated position. screw extractor (E-Z out). If necessaq
defective and must be replaced with a new 4 If the switch fails any of the tests, replace it. remove the fairing mount for better access to
one (only after draining the engine oil). the bolts. Detach the switch from the uppe
3 If the light does not come on, check the oil
Replacement
clamp.
pressure warning light bulb, the wiring 5 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) and 8 Hold the new switch in position and insta
between the oil pressure switch and the light, unplug the switch electrical connector, if you the new shear-head bolts. Tighten the bolts
and between the light and the junction box haven’t already done so. until the heads break off.
(see the wiring diagrams at the end of this 6 Remove the instrument cluster (see
9 The remainder of installation is the reverse
Chapter). Section 15). Remove the upper triple clamp
of removal.
4 To replace the switch, drain the engine oil (see Chapter 6) and flip it over.
(see Chapter 1) and unscrew the switch from 7 The switch is attached to the upper clamp
the case. Wrap the threads of the new switch with two shear-head bolts (see illustration). 21 Handlebar switches -
with Teflon tape or apply a thin coat of sealant Using a hammer and a sharp punch, knock check
on them, then screw the switch into its hole
and tighten it to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
1 Generally speaking, the switches are
5 Fill the crankcase with the recommended
reliable and trouble-free. Most troubles, when
type and amount of oil (see Chapter 1) and
they do occur, are caused by dirty or
check for leaks.
corroded contacts, but wear and breakage of
internal parts is a possibility that should not
20 Ignition main (key) switch -
check and replacement
% be overlooked. If breakage does occur, tha
entire switch and related wiring harness will
have to be replaced with a new one, since
individual parts are not usually available.
2 The switches can be checked for continuity
Check with an ohmmeter or a continuity test lig
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Always disconnect the battery ground cable,
2 Unplug the switch electrical connector (see 20.7 To detach the ignition main (key) which will prevent the possibility of a short
illustration). switch, drill out these two shear-head circuit, before making the checks.
3 Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity of bolts (arrows) 3 Trace the wiring harness of the susped
Electrical system 9*15
Horn Burton Passing Button Turn Signal Switch Dimmer Switch Starter Locko ut Switch
Color BK/Y BK/W Color R/BK BR Color GY o G Color R/BK B L /Y R /Y Color B K /Y BK BK/R
UK models
Released Released R O— —o
N (OFF, PUSH) i
HI Released ■■C
ON ON
C ^m -O L LO PU LL
IPUSH) (PUSH)
Released
O
ON
o»1
Pulled in
■
21.4 Continuity tables for the handlebar switches
switch and unplug the electrical connectors. engine case (see Chapter 7, Section 15). Slide
4 Using the ohmmeter or test light, check for 23 Neutral switch - ||| off the sprocket cover. (If you do know where
continuity between the terminals of the switch check and replacement §§ the switch is located, it’s not absolutely
harness with the switch in the various positions necessary to remove the sprocket cover,
(see illustration). Continuity should exist because you can reach up under the bottom
between the terminals connected by a solid edge of the cover, unplug the lead and test the
linewhen the switch is in the indicated position. Check switch without actually removing the cover.
5 If the continuity check indicates a problem, 1 Mark the position of the shift lever to the 3 Disconnect the wire from the neutral switch
refer to Section 22, disassemble the switch shift lever shaft (see Chapter 7, Section 15). (see illustration). Connect one lead of an
and spray the switch contacts with electrical Remove the shift lever pinch bolt and slide the ohmmeter to a good ground and the other
contact cleaner. If they’re accessible, the lever off the shaft. lead to the post on the switch (see
2 If you don’t know what the neutral switch illustration).
.contacts can be scraped clean with a knife or
looks like or where it is, remove the bolts 4 When the transmission is in neutral, the
polished with crocus cloth. If switch
securing the engine sprocket cover to the ohmmeter should indicate zero resistance; in
components are damaged or broken, it will be
obvious when the switch is disassembled.
25.5 Unplug the connectors (1) and remove the mounting bolts
(2 and 3) 26.2 To remove the starter relay, remove the terminal nuts
The small screw (4) is for adjusting the horn’s tone (lower arrows) and unplug the connector (upper arrow)
Electrical system 9*17
BK/Y
Y/R
26.3Attach an ohmmeter to the battery and starter terminals, then hook up a battery to 27.3 Slide back the boot and disconnect
the control terminals the cable (left arrow), then remove the
mounting bolts (arrows)
IConnect the leads of an ohmmeter to the the junction box, the starter lockout slide the starter toward the right side of the
terminals of the starter relay (see illustration). switch, starter switch (button), engine engine case, then lift it out once it’s
Hook up a jumper cable between the negative stop switch and ignition switch. disengaged from the starter ring gear.
terminal of a 12-volt battery and the 6 Check the condition of the O-ring on the
Back/yellow wire terminal on the starter relay
R eplacem ent end of the starter (see illustration) and
asshown. Hook up another jumper cable to 6 Disconnect the cable from the negative replace it if necessary.
thepositive terminal of the 12-volt battery. terminal of the battery.
7 Detach the battery positive cable, the Installation
i hen you touch this cable to the yellow/red
reterminal as shown, the relay should click
id the ohmmeter should indicate zero
starter cable and tw o-w ire electrical
connector from the relay (see
7 Remove any corrosion or dirt from the
mounting lugs on the starter and the mounting
sistance (0 ohms). When the cable is illustration 26.2). points on the crankcase.
sconnected from the yellow/red wire 8 To disengage the relay from its two plastic 8 Apply a little engine oil to the O-ring.
rminal, the ohmmeter should indicate infinite mounting tabs on the front section of the rear Installation is otherwise the reverse of
sistance. fender, simply lift it straight up. removal.
4If the relay clicks but the ohmmeter doesn’t 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Indicate zero ohms, replace the relay. Reconnect the negative battery cable after all
the other electrical connections are made. 28 Starter motor - disassembly, ^
5Ifthe relay doesn’t click, it may be defective
or there may be a problem in the starter
inspection and reassembly
circuit. To determine which, disconnect the
27 Starter motor -
'electrical connector from the relay and
loonnect a voltmeter or 12-volt test lamp
removal and installation 1 Remove the starter motor (see Section 27).
between the terminals of the black/yellow and Disassembly
yellow/red wires in the wiring harness. Press
■liestarter button again - the voltmeter should 2 Mark the relationship of both end covers to
Rem oval the armature housing. Remove the two long
Indicate approximately 12 volts or the test
ampshould light. 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative screws and detach both end covers (see
() If the voltmeter indicates 12 volts or the terminal of the battery. illustration). Make sure you don’t damage the
test lamp lights, the circuit is good. 2 Remove the fuel tank and the carburetors brushes when disengaging the armature from
Replace the relay. (see Chapter 4). the rear end cover. The brush plate must
[ij If the voltmeter indicates no voltage or the 3 Remove the nut retaining the starter wire to remain with the rear end cover when the cover
test lamp stays out, check all wiring the starter (see illustration). is being separated from the armature (the
connections in the starter circuit (refer to 4 Remove the starter mounting bolts (see electrical lead for one of the brushes is
the Wiring diagrams at the end o f this illustration 27.3). attached to the terminal bolt in the end cover)
book). Also test the starter circuit relay in 5 Lift the inner end of the starter up a little bit, (see illustration). However, the brushes are
27.6 Inspect this O-ring on the starter; if 28.2a Mark the relationship of the end 28.2b Carefully separate the rear end
it’s cracked or torn, replace it covers to the armature housing cover and the armature housing
9*18 Electrical system
28.4 Remove the brush plate from the end cover 28.5 Remove the nut from the terminal bolt and push the bolt
through the end cover
spring-loaded, and push against the 3 Pull the armature out of the housing, toward can be cleaned and polished with croci
comm utator, so one of the brushes might the pinion gear side. cloth, but do not use sandpaper or emei
become “ cocked” in its holder as you’re 4 Lift the brush plate off the rear end cover paper. After cleaning, wipe away any residi
separating the armature from the end cover. If (see illustration). with a cloth soaked in an electrical systei
this happens, using force to pull out the 5 Remove the nut from the terminal bolt, cleaner or denatured alcohol. Measure ti
armature can damage a brush or its wire. So if push the terminal bolt through the end cover com m utator diameter (see illustration) ai
you feel any resistance, stop and look at and remove the bolt and positive brush compare it to the diameter listed in
w hat’s catching; don’t just try to pull the assembly (see illustration). Chapter’s Specifications. If it is less than tl
armature, rear end cover and brush plate service limit, the motor must be replaced wil
apart by force! Inspection a new one.
6 The parts of the starter motor that will most 8 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity ti
likely require attention are the brushes. light, check for continuity between tl
Measure the length of the brushes and commutator bars (see illustration). Continuil
compare the results to the brush length listed should exist between each bar and all of the
in this Chapter’s Specifications (see others. Also, check for continuity between tl
illustration). If either of the brushes is worn commutator bars and the armature shaft
beyond the specified limits, replace the brush illustration). There should be no continuity
plate and terminal bolt (remember: one brush is between the commutator and the shaft
attached to the brush plate and the other brush checks indicate otherwise, the armature
is attached to the terminal bolt; however, both defective.
brushes must be replaced even if only one 9 Using the 1-ohm scale of your ohmrrn
brush is excessively worn). If the brushes are check for continuity between the brush pli
not worn excessively, cracked, chipped, or and the negative brush (see illustration),
otherwise damaged, they may be re-used. negative brush is the one attached to
7 Inspect the com m utator for scoring, brush plate.) The meter should indicate ciose
28.6 Measure the length of the brushes scratches and discoloration. The commutator to zero resistance (0 ohms). If it doesn’t,
28.7 Check the commutator for cracks 28.8a There should be continuity between 28.8b There should be no continuity
and discoloring, then measure its diameter the commutator bars between the commutator bars and the
armature shaft
Electrical system 9*19
28,9 There should be virtually no resistance between the negative 28.10 There should be no continuity between the brush plate
brush and the brush plate holders and the brush plate
positive brush plate has an open and must be the terminal bolt in the correct sequence (see force anything or you could easily damage
replaced. Now check for continuity between illustration). Tighten the terminal nut one or both of the brushes. Slip the washer
the positive brush and the terminal bolt. securely. over the end of the comm utator shaft (see
Again, the meter should indicate near zero 13 Position the brush plate next to the rear illustration) and insert the shaft into its
resistance. If either reading indicates higher end cover and insert the positive brush into its bushing in the rear end cover (see
resistance, the brush lead has an open. holder, then carefully (very carefully!) push the illustration).
Replace the brush plate and terminal bolt brushes into their holders with the side of the 14 Slide the housing over the armature.
assemblies. com m utator and work the com m utator 15 Install the pinion end cover, align the
10 Using the highest range on the ohmmeter, through the brush plate as shown (see previously applied matchmarks, install the two
measure the resistance between the brush illustration). Make sure you don’t long screws and tighten them securely.
holders and the brush plate (see illustration),
hen measure the resistance between the
terminal boit and the negative brush holder,
between the terminal bolt and the end cover,
and between the terminal bolt and the brush
plate. All four readings should indicate infinite
(resistance. If any of these readings indicates
lessthan infinite resistance, replace the brush
plate and/or the terminal bolt.
11 Check the starter pinion gear for worn,
cracked, chipped and broken teeth. If the gear
s damaged or worn, replace the starter
motor.
Reassembly
12 Install the positive brush/terminal bolt 28.12a Install the terminal bolt in the rear 28.12b Install the O-ring first, then the
assembly (see illustration); make sure the end cover insulator, then the nut
O-ring, insulator and washer are installed on
28.13a Push the brushes into their holders 28.13b Don’t forget to install this washer 28.13c Make sure the notch in the brush
with the commutator while sliding it on the commutator shaft before inserting plate is aligned with the notch in the
through the plate the shaft armature housing
9*20 Electrical system
28.16 Remove these bolts (arrows) and remove this cover from 28.17 Remove the starter motor idler gear and bushing and
the left side of the engine inspect both for excessive wear
3Attach the positive (red) voltmeter lead to water pump and up to the three-term inal 2 Remove the lower fairing.
the positive (+) battery terminal and the connector above the transmission area, near 3 Remove the alternator cover (see
negative (black) lead to the battery negative (-) the left side of the frame. This is the electrical illustration 28.16). Trace the three black
terminal, the voltmeter selector switch (if so connector for the stator coil (the three wires wires from the alternator/starter clutch cover,
equipped) must be in a DC volt range greater on the main wiring harness side of this behind the water pump and up to the three-
than 15 volts. connector should all be yellow - if they’re not, terminal connector above the transmission
4 Start the engine. you've got the wrong connector!). area, near the left side of the frame. This is the
5The charging system output should be 14.5 3 Unplug the stator coil electrical connector. electrical connector for the stator coil (the
+0.5 volts at 4000 or more rpm. 4 Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity three wires on the main wiring harness side of
6 If the output is as specified, the alternator is between each of the wires coming from the this connector should all be yellow - if they’re
functioning properly. If the charging system as stator coil. Continuity should exist between not, you’ve got the wrong connector!). Unplug
awhole is not performing as it should, refer to any one wire and each of the others this connector. Remove the Allen bolt and
Section 33 and check the voltage (Kawasaki actually specifies a resistance of wiring harness clamp from inside the
I regulator/rectifier. 0.2 to 0.6 ohms, but the stator coil resistance alternator cover (see illustration). Remove
7 Low voltage output may be the result of of our project bike was 0.7 ohms, and it was the three Allen bolts which attach the stator to
imaged windings in the alternator stator working fine, so take this specification with a the alternator cover and remove the stator.
coils, loss of magnetism in the alternator rotor, grain of salt!). 4 Prevent the alternator rotor from turning by
defective regulator/rectifier or wiring 5 Check for continuity between each of the holding it with Kawasaki tool no. 57001-1313
oblems. Make sure all electrical wires and the engine. No continuity should
nections are clean and tight, then refer to exist between any of the wires and the case.
;tion 31 and check the alternator stator coil 6 If there is no continuity between any two of
windings and leads for continuity. the wires, or if there is continuity between the
wires and an engine ground, an open circuit
or a short exists within the stator coils.
31 Alternator stator coil
continuity test
% Replace the stator coil (see Section 32).
Installation
6 Clean the tapered end of the crankshaft,
the alternator rotor bolt, the threads in the
crankshaft and the tapered portion of the rotor
(see illustration) with an oil-less cleaning
solvent such as acetone or brake system
cleaner.
32.4 You’ll need a flywheel holder (A) to 32.5 You’ll need a rotor puller (A) ;
7 Install the rotor, washer and bolt. Make sure
remove the bolt (C) from the alternator flywheel puller (B) to remove the altema
the chamfer on the washer faces out. Prevent
rotor (B) rotor
the rotor from turning using the method
described in Step 4, and tighten the rotor bolt
to the torque listed in this C hapter’s
Specifications.
8 Place the stator coil in position on the
inside of the alternator cover, install the bolts
and tighten them to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Route the wiring 7 Tapered end of
harness just as it was before and install the crankshaft
wiring harness clamp. Tighten the clamp bolt 2 Threaded portion of
securely. Apply silicone sealant to the rubber rotor bolt and hole in
grommet for the stator coil leads and push the crankshaft
grommet into its slot in the alternator cover. 3 Tapered portion o f rotor
Apply silicone sealant to the “split-line” for the 4 Note that the chamfered
crankcase halves, make sure the starter side o f the washer faces
clutch idler gear and bushing are still properly out
positioned (see Section 28), then install the
alternator cover and tighten the cover bolts to
the torque listed in this C hapter’s
Specifications. Route the stator coil wiring
behind the water pump, then plug it into the
main wiring harness electrical connector. 32.6 Before installing the alternator rotor, clean the indicated areas with an oil-
9 Install the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). solvent
10 Connect the cable to the negative terminal
of the battery. 2 Remove the two bolts securing the accompanying table (see illustrations).
regulator/rectifier to its bracket (see meter readings are not as specified, repla
illustrations), then unplug the electrical the regulator/rectifier.
33 Voltage rectifier/regulator -
connector.
check and replacement ^ R egulator check
R ectifier check 4 Hook up a 12-volt battery and test light as
3 Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance shown, with a terminal for one of the;
1 Remove the seat and the right side cover (D across the term inals indicated in the leads connected to the positive terminal pf the
models) or the left side cover (E models) (see
Chapter 8).
33.2 Simply remove these two bolts 33.3a Terminal guide for the rectifier tests
(arrows) and unplug the electrical 7 White lead 3 Black/yellow lead 5 Yellow 2 lead
connector 2 Brown lead 4 Yellow 1 lead 6 Yellow 3 lead
Electrical system 9*23
Connections Meter
No Meter (+) to Meter ( - ) to Reading Range
1 Yi
2 Y2 w 00
3 Y3
4 Yi
5 Y2 BK/Y x 1 0Q
6 Y3 1/2 scale or
7 Yi x 100 Q
8 w Y2
9 Y3
10 Yi
11 BK/Y Y2 00
12 Y3
33.3b Continuity table for testing the 33.4 Connect one of the yellow lead terminals to the positive terminal of a 12-volt battery
rectifier and a test light in series between the terminal for the black/yellow wire and the negative
battery terminal.
battery, and a test light in series between the terminal for the black/yellow lead to the checked by a dealer service department or
terminal for the black/yellow wire and the battery negative terminal. This applies 24 volts other repair shop (or substitute a known good
negative battery terminal (see illustration). to the regulator and the bulb should now rectifier/regulator unit and recheck the
Thebulb should NOT come on yet. come on and stay on, briefly, until the bulb charging system).
Caution: Do NOT use an ammeter instead circuit is opened.
ofa test light! The test light in this testing 7 Repeat this entire test (Steps 4, 5 and 6) at
circuit functions as an indicator and as a the terminals for the other two yellow leads. 34 Wiring diagrams
current limiter to protect the 8 If the bulb doesn’t light as described during
regulator/rectifier from excessive current. the third step for all three yellow leads, the
5 Now hook up a second 12-volt battery by regulator is defective. Replace the
connecting the terminal for the brown lead to rectifier/regulator unit. Prior to troubleshooting a circuit, check the
the positive battery terminal and the terminal 9 These checks, combined with the charging fuses to make sure they’re in good condition.
lor the black/yellow lead to the negative system output test described in Section 30 Make sure the battery is fully charged and
battery terminal (see illustration). The bulb and the alternator stator coil test outlined in check the cable connections.
should still not come on. Section 31, should diagnose most charging When checking a circuit, make sure all
6Connect a third 12-volt battery in series to system problems. If the voltage connectors are clean, with no broken or loose
the second battery (see illustration) and regulator/rectifier passes the tests described terminals or wires. When unplugging a
BRIEFLY connect the terminal for the brown above, and the stator coil passes the test in connector, don’t pull on the wires - pull only
lead to the battery positive terminal and the Section 31, have the charging system on the connector housings themselves.
33.5 Hook up a second 12-volt battery by connecting the terminal 33.6 Connect a third 12-volt battery in series to the second
for the brown lead to the positive battery terminal and the battery and briefly connect the brown lead terminal to the battery
terminal for the black/yellow lead to the negative battery terminal positive and the black/yellow lead terminal to the
battery negative
9*24 Electrical system
Electrical system 9*25
9*26 Electrical system
Ignition switch
Electrical system
E1 and E2 models (UK)
9*27
9*28 Electrical system
Electrical system
Horn
E6-on
9*29
Reference ref.i
Dimensions and W e ig h ts ..................................... REF*1 S torage................................................................ REF«26
Tools and Workshop Tips ................................... REF»2 Fault Finding........................................................ REF«28
[Conversion Factors ............................................REF*20 Fault Finding Equipment ................................... REF*36
’Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants.............. REF*21 Technical Terms Explained ............................... REF*40
MOTTest Checks................................................REF«22 In de x.................................................................... REF*44
Wheelbase
Length
Wheelbase
|D models............... 1440 mm (56.74 inches)
BEm odels............... 1430 mm (56.34 inches)
Overall le n g th
i models............... 2075 mm (81.76 inches)
IE m odels............... 2070 mm (81.56 inches)
Overall w id th
Dmodels............... 700 mm (27.58 inches)
Em odels............... 695 mm (27.38 inches)
Overall h e ig h t
to models............... 1170 mm (46.10 inches)
fem odels............... 1175 mm (46.30 inches)
Seat h e ig h t
fei m o d e ls ............. 780 mm (30.73 inches)
Dry w e ig h t
California models 195.5 kg (430.1 pounds)
Pother models . 195 kg (429 pounds)
ref.2 Tools and Workshop Tips
For more information about tools, refer to
Buying tools Warning: To avoid the risk of a
A toolkit is a fundamental requirement for
servicing and repairing a motorcycle. Although
there will be an initial expense in building up
A poor quality tool breaking in use,
causing injury or damage to the
component being worked on,
the Haynes Motorcycle Workshop Practice
TechBook (Bk. No. 3470).
1 Set of flat-bladed 6 Set of Torx keys or bits 11 Cable oiler clamp 16 Calibrated syringe, 21 Straight-edge and
screwdrivers 7 Pliers, cutters and 12 Feeler gauges measuring vessel and steel rule
2 Set o f Phillips head self-locking grips 13 Spark plug gap funnel 22 Continuity tester
screwdrivers (Mole grips) measuring tool 17 Oil filter adapters 23 Battery charger
3 Combination open-end 8 Adjustable spanners 14 Spark plug spanner or 18 Oil drainer can or 24 Hydrometer (for battery
and ring spanners 9 C-spanners deep plug sockets tray specific gravity check)
4 Socket set (3/8 inch 10 Tread depth gauge and 15 Wire brush and 19 Pump type oil can 25 Anti-freeze tester (for
or 1/2 inch drive) tyre pressure gauge emery paper 20 Grease gun liquid-cooled engines)
5 Sef of Allen keys or bits
Tools and Workshop Tips ref-3
Repair and overhaul tools
1 Torque wrench 4 Vernier gauge 7 Selection of pullers 10 Wire stripper and 13 Hose clamp
(small and mid-ranges) 5 Circlip pliers (internal and 8 Breaker bars crimper tool (wingnut type shown)
2 Conventional, plastic or external, or combination) 9 Chain breaking/ 11 Multimeter (measures 14 Clutch holding tool
soft-faced hammers 6 Set o f cold chisels riveting tool set amps, volts and ohms) 15 One-man brake/clutch
3 Impact driver set and punches 12 Stroboscope (for bleeder kit
dynamic timing checks)
Specialist tools
'1 Micrometers 4 Cylinder 1 Plastigauge kit 10 Piston ring removal and 13 Stud extractor
(external type) compression gauge 8 Valve spring compressor installation tool 14 Screw extractor set
2 Telescoping gauges 5 Vacuum gauges (left) or (4-stroke engines) 11 Piston ring clamp 15 Bearing driver set
3 Dial gauge manometer (right) 9 Piston pin drawbolt tool 12 Cylinder bore hone
6 Oil pressure gauge (stone type shown)
ref.4 Tools and Workshop Tips
• Use proprietary engine degreasers or
1 Workshop equipment and solvents which have a high flash-point, such
facilities as paraffin (kerosene), for cleaning off oil,
grease and dirt - never use petrol (gasoline) for
cleaning. Wear rubber gloves when handling
solvent and engine degreaser. The fumes from
The workbench certain solvents can be dangerous - always
• Work is made much easier by raising the work in a well-ventilated area.
bike up on a ramp - components are much
more accessible if raised to waist level. The Dust, eye and hand protection
hydraulic or pneumatic types seen in the
dealer’s workshop are a sound investment if • P rotect your lungs from inhalation ol
you undertake a lot of repairs or overhauls 1.3 This auxiliary stand attaches to the dust particles by wearing a filtering mask
(see illustration 1.1). swingarm pivot over the nose and mouth. Many frictional
m aterials still contain asbestos which is
dangerous to your health. Protect your eyes
from spouts of liquid and sprung
components by wearing a pair of protective
goggles (see illustration 1.6).
r:;,:
• If raised off ground level, the bike must be Fumes and fire
supported on the ramp to avoid it falling. Most
• Refer to the Safety first! page at the
ramps incorporate a front wheel locating
beginning of the manual for full details. Make 1.6 A fire extinguisher, goggles, mask
clamp which can be adjusted to suit different
sure your workshop is equipped with a fire and protective gloves should be at hand
diameter wheels. When tightening the clamp,
extinguisher suitable for fuel-related fires in the workshop
take care not to mark the wheel rim or
(Class B fire - flammable liquids) - it is not
damage the tyre - use wood blocks on each
sufficient to have a water-filled extinguisher. • Protect your hands from contact with
side to prevent this.
• Always ensure adequate ventilation is solvents, fuel and oils by wearing rubber
• Secure the bike to the ramp using tie
available. Unless an exhaust gas extraction gloves. Alternatively apply a barrier cream to
downs (see illustration 1.2). If the bike has
system is available for use, ensure that the your hands before starting work. If handling
only a sidestand, and hence leans at a
engine is run outside of the workshop. hot components or fluids, wear suitable
dangerous angle when raised, support the
• If working on the fuel system, make sure gloves to protect your hands from scalding
bike on an auxiliary stand.
the workshop is ventilated to avoid a build-up and burns. 1
of fumes. This applies equally to fume build
up when charging a battery. Do not smoke or
allow anyone else to smoke in the workshop. What to do with old fluids
• Old cleaning solvent, fuel, coolant and oils
Fluids
should not be poured down domestic drains
• If you need to drain fuel from the tank, or onto the ground. Package the fluid up in old
store it in an approved container marked as oil containers, label it accordingly, and take it
suitable for the storage of petrol (gasoline) to a garage or disposal facility. Contact your
(see illustration 1.5). Do not store fuel in local authority for location of such sites or ring
glass jars or bottles. the oil care hotline.
Note: It is
antisocial and
1.2 Tie-downs are used around the illegal to dump oil
passenger footrests to secure the bike down the drain.
• Auxiliary (paddock) stands are widely To find the
available from mail order companies or location of your
m otorcycle dealers and attach either to the local oil recycling
wheel axle or swingarm pivot (see illustration bank, call this
1.3). If the motorcycle has a centrestand, you 0800 66 33 66 number free.
can support it under the crankcase to prevent
it toppling whilst either wheel is removed (see In the USA, note that any oil supplier
illustration 1.4). 1.5 Use an approved can only for storing must accept used oil for recycling.
petrol (gasoline)
Tools and Workshop Tips ref-s
• Self-locking nuts either have a nylon
2 Fasteners -
screws, bolts and nuts
B R1fim
insert, or two spring metal tabs, or a shoulder
which is staked into a groove in the shaft -
i! , ' \ • - ; -v # . '/
THRUST WASHER
SHARP EDGE
CHAMFERED EDGE
2.11 Fastener length (L), thread diameter 2.13 A sharp tap on the head of a fastener
2.9 Correct fitting of a stamped circlip (D), thread pitch (P) and head size (AF) will often break free a corroded thread
Tools and Workshop Tips REF«7
2.16 Using a hammer and chisel 2.19 When using a screw extractor,
to free a seized fastener first drill a hole in the fastener . . .
2.17 Using a stud extractor tool to remove • If a taper type extractor is used, tap it into
a broken crankcase stud the fastener so that it is firmly wedged in
place. Unscrew the extractor (anti-clockwise)
to draw the fastener out.
2.24 Using a thread restorer file 2.28 . . . fit insert on the installing 1
( draper) ~ S '- ’:
25-50* jWIw
3.1 Feeler gauges are used for measuring 3.3 Micrometer component parts
small gaps and clearances - thickness is 1 Anvil 3 Spindle 5 Frame
marked on one face of gauge 2 Thimble 4 Ratchet 6 Locking lever
ref.10 Tools and Workshop Tips
on the thimble will be in graduations of 0.01
mm (or as marked on the frame) - one full 46.000
revolution of the thimble will move 0.5 mm on
the linear scale. Take the reading where the
datum line on the sleeve intersects the
thim ble’s scale. Always position the eye
directly above the scale otherwise an
inaccurate reading will result.
Most micrometers have a locking lever (6) on measure internal diameters of components.
the frame to hold the setting in place, allowing Select a gauge with the correct size range,
the item to be removed from the micrometer. make sure its ends are clean and insert it into
• Some micrometers have a vernier scale the bore. Expand the gauge, then lock its
on their sleeve, providing an even finer position and withdraw it from the bore (see
measurement to be taken, in 0.001 illustration 3.7). Measure across the gauge
increments of a millimetre. Take the sleeve ends with a micrometer (see illustration 3.8).
and thim ble measurement as described • Very small diameter bores (such as valve
above, then check which graduation on the guides) are measured with a small hole gauge.
vernier scale aligns with that of the annular Once adjusted to a slip-fit inside the
scale on the thimble Note: The eye must be component, its position is locked and the
perpendicular to the scale when taking the gauge withdrawn for measurement with a
vernier reading - if necessary rotate the body micrometer (see illustrations 3.9 and 3.10).
o f the micrometer to ensure this. Multiply the 3.9 Expand the small hole gauge
Vernier caliper in the bore, lock its position...
vernier scale figure by 0.001 and add it to the
Note: The conventional linear and dial gauge
base and fine measurement figures.
type instruments are described. Digital types
In the example shown the item measures are easier to read, but are far more expensive.
46.994 mm (see illustrations 3.5 and 3.6): • The vernier caliper does not provide the
precision of a micrometer, but is versatile in
Linear scale (base) 46.000 mm being able to measure internal and external
Linear scale (base) 00.500 mm diameters. Some types also incorporate a
Annular scale (fine) 00.490 mm depth gauge. It is ideal for measuring clutch
Vernier scale 00.004 mm plate friction material and spring free lengths.
Total figure 46.994 mm • To use the conventional linear scale
vernier, slacken off the vernier clamp screws
(1) and set its jaws over (2), or inside (3), the
Internal micrometer item to be measured (see illustration 3.11).
• Internal micrometers are available for Slide the jaw into contact, using the thum b
measuring bore diameters, but are expensive 3.10 . . . then measure the gauge
wheel (4) for fine movement of the sliding
with a micrometer
and unlikely to be available for home use. It is scale (5) then tighten the clamp screws (1).
suggested that a set of telescoping gauges and Read off the main scale (6) where the zero on lines up exactly with any of the divisions <
small hole gauges, both of which must be used the sliding scale (5) intersects it, taking the the main scale, noting that the divislo
with an external micrometer, will suffice for whole number to the left of the zero; this usually represents 0.02 of a millimetre. Ad
taking internal measurements on a motorcycle. provides the base measurement. View along this fine measurement to the ba
• Telescoping gauges can be used to the sliding scale and select the division which measurement to obtain the total reading.
Tools and Workshop Tips ref. h
Plastigauge
• Plastigauge is a plastic material which can
be compressed between two surfaces to
measure the oil clearance between them. The
width of the compressed Plastigauge is
measured against a calibrated scale to
determine the clearance.
• Common uses of Plastigauge are for
measuring the clearance between crankshaft
journal and main bearing inserts, between
crankshaft journal and big-end bearing
inserts, and between camshaft and bearing
surfaces. The following example describes
big-end oil clearance measurement.
• Handle the Plastigauge material carefully
H -H to prevent distortion. Using a sharp knife, cut
a length which corresponds with the width of
• A dial gauge with suitable adapters can be • Oil pressure is measured with the engine
used to determine piston position BTDC on running (at a specific rpm) and often the
two-stroke engines for the purposes of ignition manufacturer will specify pressure limits fora
timing. The gauge, adapter and suitable length cold and hot engine.
probe are installed in the place of the spark
plug and the gauge zeroed at TDC. If the
Straight-edge and surface plate
piston position is specified as 1.14 mm BTDC, • If checking the gasket face of a
rotate the engine back to 2.00 mm BTDC, then component for warpage, place a steel rule 0 '
slowly forwards to 1.14 mm BTDC. precision straight-edge across the gasket face
and measure any gap between the straight
Cylinder compression gauges edge and component with feeler gauges (see
• A compression gauge is used for illustration 3.22). Check diagonally across the
measuring cylinder compression. Either the component and between mounting holes (see
3.17 Dial gauge reading of 1.48 mm
rubber-cone type or the threaded adapter illustration 3.23).
type can be used. The latter is preferred to
• If measuring shaft runout, the shaft must ensure a perfect seal against the cylinder
be supported in vee-blocks and the gauge head. A 0 to 300 psi (0 to 20 Bar) type gauge
mounted on a stand perpendicular to the (for petrol/gasoline engines) will be suitable
shaft. Rest the tip of the gauge against the for motorcycles.
centre of the shaft and rotate the shaft slowly • The spark plug is removed and the gauge
whilst watching the gauge reading (see either held hard against the cylinder head (cone
illustration 3.18). Take several measurements type) or the gauge adapter screwed into the
along the length of the shaft and record the cylinder head (threaded type) (see illustration
3.20). Cylinder compression is measured with
the engine turning over, but not running - carry 3.22 Use a straight-edge and feeler
out the compression test as described in gauges to check for warpage
3.18 Using a dial gauge to measure 3.20 Using a rubber-cone type cylinder
shaft runout compression gauge 3.23 Check for warpage in these directions
Tools and Workshop Tips ref.13
• Checking individual components for • Install the bolts/nuts in their correct Loosening sequences
warpage, such as clutch plain (metal) plates, location and secure them lightly. Their threads
• Where more than one bolt/nut secures a
requires a perfectly flat plate or piece or plate must be clean and free of any old locking
component, loosen each fastener evenly a
glass and feeler gauges. compound. Unless specified the threads and
little at a time. In this way, not all the stress of
flange should be dry - oiled threads are
the joint is held by one fastener and the
necessary in certain circumstances and the
components are not likely to distort.
manufacturer will take this into account in the
• If a tightening sequence is provided, work
specified torque figure. Similarly, the
in the REVERSE of this, but if not, work from
manufacturer may also specify the application
the outside in, in a criss-cross sequence (see
of thread-locking compound.
illustration 4.4).
• Tighten the fasteners in the specified
What is torque? sequence until the torque wrench clicks,
• Torque describes the twisting force about indicating that the torque setting has been
a shaft. The amount of torque applied is reached. Apply the torque again to double
determined by the distance from the centre of check the setting. Where different thread
Dieshaft to the end of the lever and the amount diameter fasteners secure the component, as
of force being applied to the end of the lever; a rule tighten the larger diameter ones first.
[distance multiplied by force equals torque. • When the torque wrench has been
• The manufacturer applies a measured finished with, release the lock (where
torque to a bolt or nut to ensure that it will not applicable) and fully back off its setting to zero
slacken in use and to hold two components - do not leave the torque wrench tensioned.
securely together without movement in the Also, do not use a torque wrench for
joint. The actual torque setting depends on slackening a fastener.
thethread size, bolt or nut material and the
composition of the components being held.
• Too little torque may cause the fastener to Angle-tightening
loosen due to vibration, whereas too much • Manufacturers often specify a figure in
torque will distort the joint faces of the degrees for final tightening of a fastener. This
component or cause the fastener to shear off. usually follows tightening to a specific torque 4.4 When slackening, work from the
Always stick to the specified torque setting. setting. outside inwards
• A degree disc can be set and attached to
Using a torque wrench the socket (see illustration 4.2) or a Tightening sequences
Check the calibration of the torque protractor can be used to mark the angle of
wench'and make sure it has a suitable range • If a component is held by more than one
movement on the bolt/nut head and the
for the job. Torque wrenches are available in fastener it is important that the retaining
surrounding casting (see illustration 4.3).
(Newton-metres), kgf m (kilograms-force bolts/nuts are tightened evenly to prevent
metre), Ibf ft (pounds-feet), Ibf in (inch- uneven stress build-up and distortion of
pounds). Do not confuse Ibf ft with Ibf in. sealing faces. This is especially important on
• Adjust the tool to the desired torque on high-compression joints such as the cylinder
thescale (see illustration 4.1). If your torque head.
wrench is not calibrated in the units specified, • A sequence is usually provided by the
carefully convert the figure (see Conversion manufacturer, either in a diagram or actually
Factors). A manufacturer sometimes gives a marked in the casting. If not, always start in
je setting as a range (8 to 10 Nm) rather the centre and work outwards in a criss-cross
than a single figure - in this case set the tool pattern (see illustration 4.5). Start off by
midway between the two settings. The same securing all bolts/nuts finger-tight, then set
orque may be expressed as 9 Nm ± 1 Nm. the torque wrench and tighten each fastener
Some torque wrenches have a method of by a small amount in sequence until the final
Dcking the setting so that it isn’t inadvertently torque is reached. By following this practice,
altered during use. 4.2 Angle tightening can be accomplished
with a torque-angle gauge . . .
L
4.1 Set the torque wrench index mark to 4.3 . . . or by marking the angle on the 4.5 When tightening, work from the
the setting required, in this case 12 Nm surrounding component inside outwards
ref.14 Tools and Workshop Tips
the joint will be held evenly and will not be • The same equipment can be used to off a gear shaft for example, you may haveto
distorted. Important joints, such as the install bearings. Make sure the bearing locate the puller behind a gear pinion if thereis
cylinder head and big-end fasteners often housing is supported on wood blocks and line no access to the race and draw the gear pinion
have two- or three-stage torque settings. up the bearing in its housing. Fit the bearing off the shaft as well (see illustration 5.4).
as noted on removal - generally they are --------------------------------------------
installed with their marked side facing Caution: Ensure that the puller’s centre
Applying leverage outwards. Tap the bearing squarely into its bolt locates securely against the end oI
• Use tools at the correct angle. Position a housing using a driver or socket which bears the shaft and will not slip when pressure
socket wrench or spanner on the bolt/nut so only on the bearing’s outer race - contact with is applied. Also ensure that puller does
that you pull it towards you when loosening. If the bearing balls/rollers or inner race will not damage the shaft end.
.1 1 1 . .—
this can't be done, push the spanner without destroy it (see illustrations 5.1 and 5.2).
curling your fingers around it (see illustration • Check that the bearing inner race and
4.6) - the spanner may slip or the fastener balls/rollers rotate freely.
loosen suddenly, resulting in your fingers
being crushed against a component.
Bearing removal and installation 5.2 Using a large socket against the
Drivers and sockets bearing’s outer race
Temperature change
• If the bearing’s outer race is a tight fit in
the casing, the aluminium casing can be
heated to release its grip on the bearing.
Aluminium will expand at a greater rate than
the steel bearing outer race. There are several
ways to do this, but avoid any localised
extreme heat (such as a blow torch) -
aluminium alloy has a low melting point.
• Approved m ethods of heating a casing
are using a domestic oven (heated to 100°C)
or immersing the casing in boiling water (see
5.6 Expand the bearing puller so that it illustration 5.12). Low temperature range
locks behind the bearing . . . 5.9 Drawbolt component parts assembled localised heat sources such as a paint stripper
on a suspension arm
heat gun or clothes iron can also be used (see
1 Bolt or length o f threaded bar illustration 5.13). Alternatively, soak a rag in
2 Nuts boiling water, wring it out and wrap it around
3 Washer (external diameter greater than the bearing housing.
tubing internal diameter)
Warning: All of these methods
4 Tubing (internal diameter sufficient to
accommodate bearing)
5 Suspension arm with bearing
A require care in use to prevent
scalding and burns to the
hands. Wear protective gloves
6 Tubing (external diameter slightly smaller
when handling hot components.
than bearing)
7 Washer (external diameter slightly smaller
than bearing)
CRATERS OR POCKETS
Oil seal removal and installation
• Oil seals should be renewed every time i
SCRATCHED BY DIRT LACK OF OIL component is dismantled. This is because the
5.15 Tapered roller bearing (A), needle seal lips will become set to the sealing isurface
roller bearing (B) and ball journal bearing (C) and will not necessarily reseal.
• Oil seals can be prised out of position
• Shell bearings (often cailed inserts) are using a large flat-bladed screwdriver (see
usually found at the crankshaft main and illustration 6.1). In the case of crankcase
connecting rod big-end where they are good DIRT EM BEDDED INTO seals, check first that the seal is not lipped on |
RE AR IN fi MATERIAL
at coping with high loads. They are made of a the inside, preventing its removal with t'
phosphor-bronze material and are EXCESSIVE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL crankcases joined.
impregnated with self-lubricating properties.
• Ball bearings and needle roller bearings
consist of a steel inner and outer race with the
balls or rollers between the races. They
require constant lubrication by oil or grease
and are good at coping with axial loads. Taper
roller bearings consist of rollers set in a 5.17 Typical bearing failures
tapered cage set on the inner race; the outer
race is separate. They are good at coping with • Ball and roller bearings will fail due to lack
axial loads and prevent movement along the of lubrication or damage to the balls or rollers.
shaft - a typical application is in the steering Tapered-roller bearings can be damaged by
head. overloading them. Unless the bearing is 6.1 Prise out oil seals with a large
• Bearing manufacturers produce bearings sealed on both sides, wash it in paraffin flat-bladed screwdriver
to ISO size standards and stamp one face of (kerosene) to remove all old grease then allow
the bearing to indicate its internal and external it to dry. Make a visual inspection looking to • New seals are usually installed with theif
diameter, load capacity and type (see dented balls or rollers, damaged cages and marked face (containing the seal reference
illustration 5.16). worn or pitted races (see illustration 5.18). code) outwards and the spring side towards
• Metal bushes are usually of phosphor- • A ball bearing can be checked for wear by the fluid being retained. In certain cases, such
bronze material. Rubber bushes are used in listening to it when spun. Apply a film of light oil as a tw o-stroke engine crankshaft seal, a
suspension mounting eyes. Fibre bushes have to the bearing and hold it close to the ear - hold double lipped seal may be used due to there
also been used in suspension pivots. the outer race with one hand and spin the inner being fluid or gas on each side of the joint.
Tools and Workshop Tips ref.17
• Use a bearing driver or socket which impregnated in its surface before applying
bears only on the outer hard edge of the seal additional sealant.
to install it in the casing - tapping on the inner • When choosing a sealant, make sure it is
edge will damage the sealing lip. suitable for the application, particularly if
being applied in a high-temperature area or in
Oil seal types and markings the vicinity of fuel. Certain manufacturers
• Oil seals are usually of the single-lipped produce sealants in either clear, silver or black
type. Double-lipped seals are found where a colours to match the finish of the engine. This
liquid or gas is on both sides of the joint. has a particular application on motorcycles
• Oil seals can harden and lose their sealing where much of the engine is exposed.
ability if the motorcycle has been in storage • Do not over-apply sealant. That which is
fora long period - renewal is the only solution, squeezed out on the outside of the joint can Most components have one or two
t Oil seal manufacturers also conform to be wiped off, whereas an excess of sealant on hollow locating dowels between the
the ISO markings for seal size - these are the inside can break off and clog oilways. two gasket faces. If a dowel cannot be
moulded into the outer face of the seal (see removed, do not resort to gripping it
illustration 6.2). Breaking a sealed joint with pliers - it will almost certainly be
• Age, heat, pressure and the use of hard distorted. Install a close-fitting socket
setting sealant can cause two components to or Phillips screwdriver into the dowel
stick together so tightly that they are difficult to and then grip the outer edge of the
separate using finger pressure alone. Do not dowel to free it.
resort to using levers unless there is a pry point
provided for this purpose (see illustration 7.1)
the sealing faces of the components. It is
or else the gasket surfaces will be damaged. imperative that all traces are removed to
• Use a soft-faced hammer (see illus ensure correct sealing of the new gasket.
tration 7.2) or a wood block and conventional • Very carefully scrape all traces of gasket
hammer to strike the component near the away making sure that the sealing surfaces
6.2 These oil seal markings indicate
mating surface. Avoid hammering against cast are not gouged or scored by the scraper (see
inside diameter, outside diameter
extremities since they may break off. If this illustrations 7.3, 7.4 and 7.5). Stubborn
and seal thickness
method fails, try using a wood wedge between deposits can be removed by spraying with an
the two components. aerosol gasket remover. Final preparation of
7 Gaskets and sealants Caution: If the jo in t will not separate,
double-check that you have removed all
the fasteners.
■M
___ l
Types of gasket and sealant
I • Gaskets are used to seal the mating
I surfaces between components and keep
I lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained
I within the assembly. Aluminium gaskets are
I sometimes found at the cylinder joints, but
I most gaskets are paper-based. If the mating 7.3 Paper gaskets can be scraped off with
I surfaces of the components being joined are a gasket scraper to o l. . .
I undamaged the gasket can be installed dry,
I although a dab of sealant or grease will be
I useful to hold it in place during assembly.
7.1 If a pry point is provided, apply gently
I • RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanising)
pressure with a flat-bladed screwdriver
I silicone rubber sealants cure when exposed to
moisture in the atmosphere. These sealants
are good at filling pits or irregular gasket faces,
but will tend to be forced out of the joint under
very high torque. They can be used to replace
a paper gasket, but first make sure that the
width of the paper gasket is not essential to
I the shimming of internal components. RTV
7.4 . . . a knife blade
sealants should not be used on components
containing petrol (gasoline).
I • Non-hardening, semi-hardening and hard
I setting liquid gasket compounds can be used
I with a gasket or between a metal-to-metal
I joint. Select the sealant to suit the application: 7.2 Tap around the joint with a soft-faced
I universal non-hardening sealant can be used mallet if necessary - don’t strike cooling fins
I on virtually all joints; semi-hardening on joint
I faces which are rough or damaged; hard Removal of
I setting sealant on joints which require a old gasket and sealant
I permanent bond and are subjected to high
• Paper gaskets will most likely come away
I temperature and pressure. Note: Check first if
I the paper gasket has a bead o f sealant complete, leaving only a few traces stuck on 75 . . . or a household scraper
ref.18 Tools and Workshop Tips
7.6 Fine abrasive paper is wrapped around 8.1 Tighten the chain breaker to push the
a flat file to clean up the gasket face pin out of the link . . .
8.8 Assemble the chain riveting tool over Sizes commencing with a 4 (eg 428)
one pin at a time and tighten it fully have a pitch of 1/2 inch (12.7 mm)
Sizes commencing with a 5 (eg 520)
have a pitch of 5/8 inch (15.9 mm)
Sizes commencing with a 6 (eg 630)
have a pitch of 3/4 inch (19.1 mm) 9.3 . . . two sockets and a pair of
• The second and third digits of the chain self-locking grips . . .
size relate to the width of the rollers, again in
imperial units, eg the 525 shown has 5/16 inch
(7.94 mm) rollers (see illustration 8.11).
Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in3) X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) X 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3)
Imperial pints (Imp pt) X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.76 SS.Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.137 = Litres (I) X 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) X 0.833 SS Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) X 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 = Litres (I) X 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)
Mass (weight)
Ounces (oz) X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb) X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) X 2.205 = Pounds (lb)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz) X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) X 0.225 SS Pounds-force (Ibf; lb)
Newtons (N) X 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) X 9.81 SS Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.070 = Kilogram s-force per square X 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) X 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.069 = Bars X 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch
(ps^tef/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Kilopf|cals (kPa) X 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square X 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)
Millibar (mbar) X 100 = Pascals (Pa) X 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) X 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch X 68.947 - Millibar (mbar)
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Millibar (mbar) X 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) X 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) X 0.401 = Inches of water (inH20) X 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) X 0.535 = Inches of water (inH20) X 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH20) X 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch X 27.68 Inches of water (inH20)
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) =
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force inches X 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre X 0.868 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches X 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) X 8.85 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 12 s Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres X 7.233 3= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) X 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm) X 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres X 9.804 Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg rri) • =
•5;- , ■' ( . .
Power
Horsepower (hp) X 745.7 = Watts (W) X 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon (mpg) X 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) X 2.825 _ Miles per gallon (mpg)
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (1/100km), where mpg x 1/100 km = 282
Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants ref.21
A number of chemicals and variety of additives to prevent corrosion brushed on and, depending on the type,
lubricants are available for use in and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil are rinsed with either water or solvent.
motorcycle maintenance and repair. comes in various weights (viscosity
• Solvents are used alone or in
They include a wide variety of products ratings) of from 5 to 80. The
combination with degreasers to clean
ranging from cleaning solvents and recommended weight of the oil depends
parts and assemblies during repair and
degreasers to lubricants and protective on the seasonal temperature and the
overhaul. The home mechanic should
sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. demands on the engine. Light oil is used
use only solvents that are non-flammable
in cold climates and under light load
• Contact point/spark plug cleaner is and that do not produce irritating fumes.
conditions; heavy oil is used in hot
asolvent used to clean oily film and dirt
climates and where high loads are • Gasket sealing compounds may be
from points, grime from electrical
encountered. M ulti-viscosity oils are used in conjunction with gaskets, to
connectors and oil deposits from spark
designed to have characteristics of both improve their sealing capabilities, or
plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue.
light and heavy oils and are available in a alone, to seal metal-to-metal joints.
It can also be used to remove gum and
number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W- Many gasket sealers can withstand
varnish from carburettor jets and other
50. extreme heat, some are impervious to
.orifices.
petrol and lubricants, while others are
• Carburettor cleaner is similar to • Petrol additives perform several capable of filling and sealing large
Contact point/spark plug cleaner but it functions, depending on their chemical cavities. Depending on the intended use,
usually has a stronger solvent and may makeup. They usually contain solvents gasket sealers either dry hard or stay
leave a slight oily reside. It is not that help dissolve gum and varnish that relatively soft and pliable. They are
recommended for cleaning electrical build up on carburettor and inlet parts. usually applied by hand, with a brush, or
components or connections. They also serve to break down carbon are sprayed on the gasket sealing
deposits that form on the inside surfaces surfaces.
• Brake system cleaner is used to of the combustion chambers. Some
' remove grease or brake fluid from brake additives contain upper cylinder • Thread locking compound is an
system components (where clean lubricants for valves and piston rings. adhesive locking compound that
surfaces are absolutely necessary and prevents threaded fasteners from
petroleum-based solvents cannot be • Brake and clutch fluid is a specially loosening because of vibration. It is
used); it also leaves no residue. formulated hydraulic fluid that can available in a variety of types for different
withstand the heat and pressure applications.
• Silicone-based lubricants are used encountered in brake/clutch systems.
to protect rubber parts such as hoses Care must be taken that this fluid does • Moisture dispersants are usually
and grommets, and are used as not come in contact with painted sprays that can be used to dry out
' lubricants for hinges and locks. surfaces or plastics. An opened electrical components such as the fuse
container should always be resealed to block and wiring connectors. Some
• Multi-purpose grease is an all
prevent contamination by water or dirt. types can also be used as treatment for
[purpose lubricant used wherever grease
rubber and as a lubricant for hinges,
is more practical than a liquid lubricant • Chain lubricants are formulated cables and locks.
such as oil. Some multi-purpose grease especially for use on m otorcycle final
is coloured white and specially drive chains. A good chain lube should • Waxes and polishes are used to
[formulated to be more resistant to water adhere well and have good penetrating help protect painted and plated surfaces
than ordinary grease. from the weather. Different types of paint
qualities to be effective as a lubricant
may require the use of different types of
• Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) inside the chain and on the side plates,
wax polish. Some polishes utilise a
Is a specially designed oil used in pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are
chemical or abrasive cleaner to help
transmissions and final drive units, as either the foaming type or quick drying
remove the top layer of oxidised (dull)
well as other areas where high friction, type and are usually marketed as sprays.
paint on older vehicles. In recent years,
high temperature lubrication is required. Take care to use a lubricant marked as
many non-wax polishes (that contain a
It is available in a number of viscosities being suitable for O-ring chains.
wide variety of chemicals such as
(weights) for various applications.
• Degreasers are heavy duty solvents polymers and silicones) have been
• Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant used to remove grease and grime that introduced. These non-wax polishes are
specially formulated for use in the may accumulate on engine and frame usually easier to apply and last longer
engine. It normally contains a wide components. They can be sprayed or than conventional waxes and polishes.
ref.22 MOT Test Checks
About the MOT Test tester, particularly in view of the equipment Certain exceptions apply to machines
required for some of the checks. However, under 50 cc, machines without a lighting
In the UK, all vehicles more than three years working through the following procedures will system, and Classic bikes - if in doubt about
old are subject to an annual test to ensure that enable you to identify any problem areas any of the requirements listed below seek
they meet minimum safety requirements. A before submitting the motorcycle for the test. confirmation from an MOT tester prior to
current test certificate must be issued before It has only been possible to summarise the submitting the motorcycle for the test.
a machine can be used on public roads, and test requirements here, based on the Check that the frame number is clearly
is required before a road fund licence can be regulations in force at the time of printing. Test visible.
issued. Riding without a current test
standards are becoming increasingly stringent,
certificate will also invalidate your insurance.
although there are some exemptions for older If a component is in
For most owners, the MOT test is an annual HAYNES
vehicles. More information about the MOT test borderline condition, the
cause for anxiety, and this is largely due to
owners not being sure what needs to be can be obtained from the HMSO publications, HiNT tester has discretion in
checked prior to submitting the motorcycle How Safe is your Motorcycle and The MOT deciding whether to pass or
for testing. The simple answer is that a fully Inspection Manual for Motorcycle Testing. fail it. If the motorcycle presented is
roadworthy motorcycle will have no difficulty Many of the checks require that one of the clean and evidently well cared for, the
in passing the test. wheels is raised off the ground. If the tester may be more inclined to pass a
This is a guide to getting your motorcycle motorcycle doesn’t have a centre stand, note borderline component than if the
through the MOT test. Obviously it will not be that an auxiliary stand will be required. motorcycle is scruffy and apparently
possible to examine the motorcycle to the Additionally, the help of an assistant may neglected.
same standard as the professional MOT prove useful.
Electrical System
Lights, turn signals, horn and Headlight beam height
reflector
✓ With the ignition on, check the operation ✓ The MOT tester will perform a headlight
of the following electrical components. Note: beam height check using specialised beam
The electrical components on certain small- setting equipment (see illustration 1). This
capacity machines are powered by the equipment will not be available to the home
generator, requiring that the engine is run for mechanic, but if you suspect that the
this check. headlight is incorrectly set or may have been
maladjusted in the past, you can perform a
a) Headlight and tail light. Check that both
rough test as follows.
illuminate in the low and high beam ✓ Position the bike in a straight line facing a Headlight beam height checking
switch positions. brick wall. The bike must be off its stand, equipment
b) Position lights. Check that the front upright and with a rider seated. Measure the line up the wall central to the centreline of the
position (or sidelight) and tail light height from the ground to the centre of the motorcycle. Switch to dipped beam and
illuminate in this switch position. headlight and mark a horizontal line on the check that the beam pattern falls slightly
c) Turn signals. Check that all flash at the wall at this height. Position the motorcycle lower than the horizontal line and to the left of
correct rate, and that the warning light(s) 3.8 metres from the wall and draw a vertical the vertical line (see illustration 2).
function correctly. Check that the turn
signal switch works correctly.
c) Hazard warning system (where fitted).
Check that all four turn signals flash in this
switch position.
d) Brake stop light. Check that the light
comes on when the front and rear brakes
are independently applied. Models first
used on or after 1st April 1986 must have
a brake light switch on each brake.
e) Horn. Check that the sound is continuous
and of reasonable volume.
✓ Check that there is a red reflector on the
rear of the machine, either mounted
separately or as part of the tail light lens.
✓ Check the condition of the headlight, tail
light and turn signal lenses.
MOT Test Checks ref.23
Exhaust System and Final Drive
✓ Note that the exhaust decibel level
Exhaust (“ loudness” of the exhaust) is assessed at the Final drive
discretion of the tester. If the motorcycle was
first used on or after 1st January 1985 the
silencer must carry the BSAU 193 stamp, or a
✓ Check that the exhaust mountings are marking relating to its make and model, or be ✓ On chain or belt drive machines, check
secure and that the system does not foul any of OE (original equipment) manufacture. If the that the chain/belt is in good condition and
of the rear suspension components. silencer is marked NOT FOR ROAD USE, does not have excessive slack. Also check
✓ Start the motorcycle. When the revs are RACING USE ONLY or similar, it will fail the that the sprocket is securely mounted on the
increased, check that the exhaust is neither MOT. rear wheel hub. Check that the chain/belt
holed nor leaking from any of its joints. On a guard is in place.
linked system, check that the collector box is ✓ On shaft drive bikes, check for oil leaking
not leaking due to corrosion. from the drive unit and fouling the rear tyre.
Rear suspension
Hold the front brake on and pump the front Inspect the area around the fork dust seal Bounce the rear of the motorcycle
forks up and down to check operation for oil leakage (arrow) to check rear suspension operation
ref.24 MOT Test Checks
Checking for rear suspension linkage play Worn suspension linkage pivots (arrows) Grasp the swingarm at the ends to check
are usually the cause of play in the rear for play in its pivot bearings
suspension
✓ Visually inspect the shock absorber(s) and and attempt to pull it up (see illustration 8). ✓ With the rear wheel raised off the ground,
check that there is no sign of oil leakage from Any play in the swingarm pivot or suspension grasp the swingarm ends and attempt to
its damper. This is somewhat restricted on linkage bearings will be felt as movement. move the swingarm from side to side and
certain single shock models due to the Note: Do not confuse play with actual forwards and backwards - any play indicates
location of the shock absorber. suspension movement. Failure to lubricate wear of the swingarm pivot bearings (see
✓ With the rear wheel raised off the suspension linkage bearings can lead to illustration 10).
ground, grasp the wheel at the highest point bearing failure (see illustration 9).
Brake pad wear can usually be viewed On drum brakes, check the angle of the
without removing the caliper. Most pads operating lever with the brake fully applied.
have wear indicator grooves (1) and some Most drum brakes have a wear indicator
also have indicator tangs (2) pointer and scale.
MOT Test Checks ref.25
Check for wheel bearing play by trying to Checking the tyre tread depth Tyre direction of rotation arrow can be
move the wheel about the axle (spindle) found on tyre sidewall
Sidecars
A motorcycle fitted with a sidecar requires swivel joints, plus specific wheel alignment motorcycle use. Owners are advised to check
additional checks relating to the stability of (toe-in) requirements. Additionally, tyre and MOT test requirements with an official test
the machine and security of attachment and lighting requirements differ from conventional centre.
REF*26 Storage
Preparing for storage
Before you start remove the spark plugs and fit them back in
their caps; ensure that the plugs are earthed
If repairs or an overhaul is needed, see that (grounded) against the cylinder head when the
this is carried out now rather than left until you starter is operated (see illustration 3).
want to ride the bike again. Warning: It is important that the
Give the bike a good wash and scrub all dirt plugs are earthed (grounded)
from its underside. Make sure the bike dries
completely before preparing for storage.
Engine
A away from the spark plug holes
otherwise there is a risk of
atomised fuel from the
cylinders igniting.
• Remove the spark plug(s) and lubricate the
cylinder bores with approximately a teaspoon On a single cylinder four-
of motor oil using a spout-type oil can (see HAYNES
stroke engine, you can seal
illustration 1). Reinstall the spark plug(s). the combustion chamber
Crank the engine over a couple of times to completely by positioning
coat the piston rings and bores with oil. If the Exhausts can be sealed off with a plastic
the piston at TDC on the compression
bike has a kickstart, use this to turn the engine bag
stroke.
over. If not, flick the kill switch to the OFF
position and crank the engine over on the Battery
starter (see illustration 2). If the nature on the • Remove it from the bike - in extreme cases
ignition system prevents the starter operating of cold the battery may freeze and crack its
with the kill switch in the OFF position, case (see illustration 6).
This Section provides an easy reference-guide to the more common of possible causes, starting with the simplest or most obvious and
faults that are likely to afflict your machine. Obviously, the progressing in stages to the most complex.
opportunities are almost limitless for faults to occur as a result of Take nothing for granted, but above all apply liberal quantities of
obscure failures, and to try and cover all eventualities would require a common sense.
book. Indeed, a number have been written on the subject. The main symptom of a fault is given in the text as a major heading
Successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious ‘black art’ but the below which are listed the various systems or areas which may contain
application of a bit of knowledge combined with a systematic and the fault. Details of each possible cause for a fault and the remedial
logical approach to the problem. Approach any troubleshooting by first action to be taken are given, in brief, in the paragraphs below each
accurately identifying the symptom and then checking through the list heading. Further information should be sought in the relevant Chapter.
3 Poor running or no power at high speed 10 Oil pressure indicator light comes on
□ Firing incorrect □ Engine lubrication system
□ Fuel/air mixture incorrect □ Electrical system
□ Compression low
□ Knocking or pinging 11 Excessive exhaust smoke
□ Miscellaneous causes □ White smoke
□ Black smoke
4 Overheating □ Brown smoke
□ Cooling system not operating properly
□ Firing incorrect 12 Poor handling or stability
□ Fuel/air mixture incorrect □ Handlebar hard to turn
□ Compression too high □ Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively
□ Engine load excessive □ Handlebar pulls to one side
□ Lubrication inadequate □ Poor shock absorbing qualities
□ Miscellaneous causes
5 Clutch problems 13 Braking problems
Clutch slipping □ Brakes are spongy, don’t hold
□
Clutch not disengaging completely □ Brake lever pulsates
□
□ Brakes drag
6 Gear shifting problems
□ Doesn’t go into gear, or lever doesn’t return 14 Electrical problems
□ Jumps out of gear □ Battery dead or weak
□ Overshifts □ Battery overcharged
Fault Finding ref.29
1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start
Starter motor does not rotate operated and the engine started without opening the throttle. When
the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of
□ Engine kill switch Off.
throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel
□ Fuse blown. Check fuse block (Chapter 9).
tap off and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This
□ Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 9).
will allow additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the
□ Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is
fuel back on after the engine starts.
secure. Make sure the starter solenoid (relay) clicks when the start
button is pushed. If the solenoid clicks, then the fault is in the wiring No spark or weak spark
or motor.
□ Ignition switch Off.
□ Starter solenoid (relay) faulty. Check it according to the procedure
□ Engine kill switch turned to the Off position.
in Chapter 9.
□ Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery as necessary
□ Starter button not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded
(Chapter 9).
or dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch (Chapter 9).
□ Spark plug dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled
□ Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and
plug(s) using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug
harnesses to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded.
maintenance procedures in Chapter 1.
Also check for broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to
□ Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition.
ground/earth (see wiring diagram, Chapter 9).
Replace either or both components if cracks or deterioration are
□ Ignition switch defective. Check the switch according to the
evident (Chapter 5).
procedure in Chapter 9. Replace the switch with a new one if it is
□ Spark plug cap not making good contact. Make sure that the plug
defective.
cap fits snugly over the plug end.
□ Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded
□ IC igniter defective. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 5 for
contacts. Clean or replace the switch as necessary (Chapter 9).
details.
□ Faulty starter lockout switch. Check the wiring to the switch and the
□ Pickup coil defective. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 5 for
switch itself according to the procedures in Chapter 9.
details.
Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn □ Ignition coil(s) defective. Check the coils, referring to Chapter 5.
over □ Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water,
C Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or replace corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be
(Chapter 2). disassembled and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. If
□ Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and replace the damaged cleaning does not help, replace the switches (Chapter 9).
parts (Chapter 2). □ Wiring shorted or broken between:
Ignition switch and engine kill switch
Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized) IC igniter and engine kill switch
□ Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged IC igniter and ignition coil
components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Ignition coil and plug
Damage can include seized valves, camshafts, pistons, crankshaft, IC igniter and pickup coil
connecting rod bearings, or transmission gears or bearings. Refer □ Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight. Look
to Chapter 2 for engine disassembly. for chafed and broken wires (Chapters 5 and 9).
5 Clutch problems
Clutch slipping □ Clutch spring tension uneven. Usually caused by a sagged or
broken spring. Check and replace the springs (Chapter 2).
□ Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly
□ Engine oil deteriorated. Old, thin, worn out oil will not provide
(Chapter 2).
proper lubrication for the discs, causing the clutch to drag. Replace
□ Metal plates worn or warped (Chapter 2).
the oil and filter (Chapter 1).
□ Clutch springs broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged (from slipping
□ Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than recommended
clutch) springs should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 2).
in Chapter 1 can cause the plates to stick together, putting a
□ Clutch release mechanism defective. Check the mechanism and
replace any defective parts (Chapter 2). drag on the engine. Change to the correct weight oil (Chap
□ Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn. This causes improper ter 1).
engagement of the discs. Replace the damaged or worn parts □ Clutch housing seized on shaft. Lack of lubrication, severe wear or
(Chapter 2). damage can cause the housing to seize on the shaft. Overhaul of
the clutch, and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair
Clutch not disengaging completely damage (Chapter 2).
□ Air in clutch hydraulic system. Bleed the system (Chapter 2). □ Clutch release mechanism defective. Worn or damaged release
□ Clutch master or release cylinder worn. Inspect and, if necessary, mechanism parts can stick and fail to apply force to the pressure
overhaul the cylinders (Chapter 2). plate. Overhaul the release mechanism (Chapter 2).
□ Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause clutch drag, □ Loose clutch hub nut. Causes housing and hub misalignment
which in turn causes the machine to creep. Overhaul the clutch putting a drag on the engine. Engagement adjustment continually
assembly (Chapter 2). varies. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).
Fault Finding ref*33
6 Gear shifting problems
Doesn’t go into gear or lever doesn’t return □ Pawl spring broken. Allows pawl to “float” , causing sporadic shift
operation. Replace spring (Chapter 2).
□ Clutch not disengaging. See Section 5.
□ Shift fork(s) bent or seized. Often caused by dropping the machine
or from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). Jumps out of gear
□ Gear(s) stuck on shaft. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication or □ Shift fork(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushings. Overhaul □ Gear groove(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
the transmission (Chapter 2). □ Gear dogs or dog slots worn or damaged. The gears should be
□ Shift drum binding. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive wear. inspected and replaced. No attempt should be made to service the
Replace the drum and bearings (Chapter 2). worn parts.
□ Shift lever return spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).
□ Shift lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused by
allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine. Overshifts
Replace necessary parts (Chapter 2). □ Pawl spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).
□ Shift mechanism pawl broken or worn. Full engagement and rotary □ Shift drum stopper lever not functioning (Chapter 2).
movement of shift drum results. Replace shaft assembly (Chapter 2). □ Overshift limiter broken or distorted (Chapter 2).
14 Electrical problems
Battery dead or weak □ Stator coil open or shorted (Chapter 9).
□ Wiring faulty. Wiring grounded (earthed) or connections loose in
□ Battery faulty. Caused by sulfated plates which are shorted through
ignition, charging or lighting circuits (Chapter 9).
sedim entation or by low electrolyte level. Also, broken battery
terminal making only occasional contact (Chapter 9). Battery overcharged
□ Battery cables making poor contact (Chapter 9). □ Regulator/rectifier defective. Overcharging is noticed when battery
□ Load excessive. Caused by addition of high wattage lights or other gets excessively warm or “ boils” over (Chapter 9).
electrical accessories. □ Battery defective. Replace battery with a new one (Chapter 9).
□ Ignition switch defective. Switch either grounds (earths) internally or □ Battery amperage to o low, w rong type or size. Install
fails to shut off system. Replace the switch (Chapter 9). manufacturer’s specified amp-hour battery to handle charging load
□ Regulator/rectifier defective (Chapter 9). (Chapter 9).
A
which has a small enough hose to insert in the
never smoke or create any aperture of a motorcycle battery.
sparks in the vicinity of the • Specific gravity is simply a measure of the
battery. Never allow the electrolyte to electrolyte’s density compared with that of
contact your skin or clothing - if it does, water. Water has an SG of 1.000 and fully-
wash it off and seek immediate medical charged battery electrolyte is about 26%
attention. heavier, at 1.260.
• Before any electrical fault is investigated • Specific gravity checks are not possible on
All spark plugs must be earthed the battery should be checked. maintenance-free batteries. Testing the open-
(grounded) against the cylinder head • You’ll need a dc voltmeter or multimeter to circuit voltage is the only means of
check battery voltage. Check that the leads determining their state of charge.
6 After one or two revolutions the pressure are inserted in the correct terminals on the
should build up to a maximum figure and then meter, red lead to positive (+ve), black lead to
stabilise. Take a note of this reading and on negative (-ve). Incorrect connections can
multi-cylinder engines repeat the test on the damage the meter.
remaining cylinders. • A sound fully-charged 12 volt battery
7 The correct pressures are given in Chapter should produce between 12.3 and 12.6 volts
2 Specifications. If the results fall within the across its terminals (12.8 volts for a
specified range and on multi-cylinder engines maintenance-free battery). On machines with
all are relatively equal, the engine is in good a 6 volt battery, voltage should be between
condition. If there is a marked difference 6.1 and 6.3 volts.
between the readings, or if the readings are 1 Set a multimeter to the 0 to 20 volts dc
lower than specified, inspection of the top- range and connect its probes across the
end components will be required.
8 Low compression pressure may be due to
worn cylinder bores, pistons or rings, failure of
the cylinder head gasket, worn valve seals, or battery specific gravity
poor valve seating.
9 To distinguish between cylinder/piston 1 To measure SG, remove the battery from the
wear and valve leakage, pour a small quantity motorcycle and remove the first cell cap. Draw
of oil into the bore to temporarily seal the some electrolyte into the hydrometer and note
piston rings, then repeat the compression the reading (see illustration 5). Return the
tests (see illustration 3). If the readings show electrolyte to the cell and install the cap.
a noticeable increase in pressure this 2 The reading should be in the region of
confirms that the cylinder bore, piston, or 1.260 to 1.280. If SG is below 1.200 the
rings are worn. If, however, no change is battery needs charging. Note that SG will vary
indicated, the cylinder head gasket or valves with temperature; it should be measured at
should be examined. Measuring open-circuit battery voltage 20°C (68°F). Add 0.007 to the reading for
ref.38 Fault Finding Equipment
every 10°C above 20°C, and subtract 0.007 • All of these instruments are self-powered
from the reading for every 10°C below 20°C. by a battery, therefore the checks are made
Add 0.004 to the reading for every 10°F above with the ignition OFF.
68°F, and subtract 0.004 from the reading for • As a safety precaution, always disconnect
every 10°F below 68°F. the battery negative (-ve) lead before making
3 When the check is complete, rinse the checks, particularly if ignition switch checks
hydrometer thoroughly with clean water. are being made.
• If using a meter, select the appropriate
ohms scale and check that the meter reads
Checking for continuity infinity (<*>). Touch the meter probes together
and check that meter reads zero; where
necessary adjust the meter so that it reads
zero. ,
• The term continuity describes the • After using a meter, always switch it OFF
uninterrupted flow of electricity through an to conserve its battery. Continuity check of rear brake light switch
electrical circuit. A continuity check will using a continuity tester
determine whether an open-circuit situation
exists.
Switch checks
Wiring checks
• Continuity can be checked with an 1 If a switch is at fault, trace its wiring up to
• Many electrical faults are caused by
ohmmeter, m ultimeter, continuity tester or the wiring connectors. Separate the wire
connectors and inspect them for security and damaged wiring, often due to incorrect
battery and bulb test circuit (see illustrations
routing or chaffing on frame components.
6, 7 and 8). condition. A build-up of dirt or corrosion here
• Loose, wet or corroded wire connectors
will most likely be the cause of the problem -
clean up and apply a water dispersant such can also be the cause of electrical problems,
as WD40. especially in exposed locations.
replacement - 6*13
Safety-0«8, 0*12, REF*4
Screws - REF«5
Sealants - REF»17
W
Seat - 8*10
Servicing schedule - 1 *3 Washers - REF»5
Shift drum and forks - 2»42 Water pump - 3*6
Shift shaft/external shift mechanism - 2*33 Tachometer Weights, model - REF*1
Shock absorber, rear check-9*11 Wheels
adjustment -6 *1 4 removal and installation - 9*10 alignment - 7«13
removal and installation - 6*10 Tail light bearing lubrication - 1*25
specifications - 6«1 bulb replacement - 9*8 bearing replacement - 7*15
Shock linkage, rear —6*11 check - 9*6 check - 1*16
Side covers - 8*10 Tank, fuel - 4*2 inspection and repair - 7*13
Sidestand Temperature gauge, coolant - 9*11 removal and installation - 7*14, 7*15
removal and installation - 8»12 Temperature sensor, coolant - 3*4 specifications - 7»2
switch - 9*16 Tensioner, cam chain - 2*10 Wiring diagrams - 9*23 et seq
Spark Plugs Condition Chart
Electrode gap check - use a wire type gauge for best results. Electrode gap adjustm ent - bend the side electrode using the
correct tool.
Normal condition - A brown, tan or grey firing end indicates that Ash deposits - Light brown deposits encrusted on the electrodes
the engine is in good condition and that the plug type is correct. and insulator, leading to misfire and hesitation. Caused by
excessive amounts of oil in the combustion chamber or poor
quality fuel/oil.
Carbon fouling - Dry, black sooty deposits leading to misfire and Oil fouling - Wet oily deposits leading to misfire and weak spark.
weak spark. Caused by an over-rich fuel/air mixture, faulty choke Caused by oil leakage past piston rings or valve guides (4-stroke
operation or blocked air filter. engine), or excess lubricant (2-stroke engine).
O verheating - A blistered white insulator and glazed electrodes. Worn plug - Worn electrodes will cause poor starting in damp or
Caused by ignition system fault, incorrect fuel, or cooling system cold conditions and will also waste fuel.
fault.