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Haynes ZX600D-E - Service Manual

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
2K views243 pages

Haynes ZX600D-E - Service Manual

Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Kawasaki ZX600

(ZZ-R600 & Ninja ZX-6)


Service and Repair Manual
by Mike Stubblefield
and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered (2U6-248-nz3)


ZX600D (ZZ-R600). 599cc. UK 1990 to 1993
ZX600D (Ninja ZX-6). 599cc. US 1990 to 1993
ZX600E (ZZ-R600). 599cc. UK 1993 to 2000
ZX600E (Ninja ZX-6). 599cc. US 1993 to 2000

ABCDE

© Haynes Publishing 2001 kGHIJ Printed in the USA

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including Haynes North America, Inc
photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
Editions Haynes
ISBN 1 85960 795 0 4, Rue de I'Abreuvoir
Library of Congress Control Number 01-131055 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB


A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden
LIVING WITH YOUR KAWASAKI ZX600

Introduction
Kawasaki - The Green Meanies Page 0*4
Acknowledgements Page 0*7
About this manual Page 0*7
Safety first! Page 0*8
Identification numbers Page 0*9
Buying spare parts Page 0*9

Daily (pre-ride) checks


Engine/transmission oil level Page 0»10
Coolant level Page 0*10
Brake fluid levels Page 0*11
Suspension, steering and drive chain Page 0*11
Clutch Page 0*12
Legal and safety checks Page 0*12
Tires Page 0*13

MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Specifications Page 1*1
Recommended lubricants and fluids Page 1*2
Maintenance schedule Page 1*3
Component locations Page 1*4
Maintenance procedures Page 1*6
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine, transmission and associated systems
Engine, clutch and transmission Page 2»1
Cooling system Page 3«1
Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4»1
Ignition system Page 5«1

Chassis components
Suspension and steering Page 6*1
Brakes Page 7»1
Wheels Page 7*13
Tires Page 7»18
Final drive Page 7*18
Fairing, bodywork and frame Page 8*1

Electrical system Page 9»1

Wiring diagrams Page 9*25

REFERENCE
Dimensions and Weights Page REF*!
Tools and Workshop Tips Page REF*2
Conversion Factors . Page REF«20
Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants Page REF«21
MOT Test Checks Page REF*22
Storage Page REF*26
Fault Finding t V , 1 Page REF*28
Fault Finding Equipment Page REF*36
Technical Terms Explained Page REF»40

Index Page REF*44


o.4 Introduction

original equipment. Both two- and four-stroke

Kawasaki units were made, a 58 cc and 148 cc OHC


unit. One of the customer companies was
Meihatsu Heavy Industries, another company
within the Kawasaki group, which in 1961 was
shaken up and renamed Kawasaki Auto

The Green Meanies Sales. At the same time, the Akashi factory
which was to be Kawasaki’s main production
facility until the Kobe earthquake of 1995, was
opened. Shortly afterwards, Kawasaki took
over the ailing Meguro company, Japan’s
oldest motorcycle maker, thus instantly
obtaining a range of bigger bikes which were
by Julian Ryder marketed as Kawasaki-Meguros. The
following year, the first bike to be made and
Kawasaki Heavy Industries They bought their high-technology sold as a Kawasaki was produced, a 125 cc
experience to bear first on engines which single called the B8 and in 1963 a motocross
awasaki is a company of contradictions. were sold on to a number of manufacturers as version, the B8M appeared.

K It is the smallest of the big four


Japanese manufacturers but the
biggest company, it was the last of the four to
make and market motorcycles yet it owns the
oldest name in the Japanese industry, and it
was the first to set up a factory in the USA.
Kawasaki Heavy Industries, of which the
motorcycle operation is but a small
component, is a massive company with its
heritage firmly in the old heavy industries like
shipbuilding and railways; nowadays it is as
much involved in aerospace as in
motorcycles.
In fact it may be because of this that
Kawasaki’s motorcycles have always been
quirky, you get the impression that they are
designed by a small group of enthusiasts who
are given an admirably free hand. More
realistically, it may be that Kawasaki’s
designers have experience with techniques
and materials from other engineering
disciplines. Either way, Kawasaki have
managed to be the factory who surprise us
more than the rest. Quite often, they do this
by totally ignoring a market segment the
others are scrabbling over, but more often
they hit us with pure, undiluted performance.
The origins of the company, and its name,
go back to 1878 when Shozo Kawasaki set up
a dockyard in Tokyo. By the late 1930s, the
company was making its own steel in massive
steelworks and manufacturing railway locos
and rolling stock. In the run up to war, the
Kawasaki Aircraft Company was set up in
1937 and it was this arm of the now giant
operation that would look to motorcycle
engine manufacture in post-war Japan.
The three cylinder two-stroke 750
Introduction 0*5
Model development

K
awasaki’s first appearance on a road-
race circuit came in 1965 with a batch of
disc-valve 125 twins. They were no
match for the opposition from Japan in the
shape of Suzuki and Yamaha or for the fading
force of the factory MZs from East Germany.
Only after the other Japanese factories had
pulled out of the class did Kawasaki win, with
British rider Dave Simmonds becoming World
125 GP Champion in 1969 on a bike that
looked astonishingly similar to the original
racer. That same year Kawasaki reorganised
once again, this time merging three
companies to form Kawasaki Heavy
Industries. One of the new organisation’s
objectives was to take motorcycie production
forward and exploit markets outside Japan.
KHI achieved that target immediately and
set out their stall for the future with the
astonishing and frightening H1. This three-
cylinder air-cooled 500 cc tw o-stroke was
arguably the first modern pure performance
bike to hit the market. It hypnotised a whole
generation of m otorcyclists w ho'd never
before encountered such a ferocious, wheelie
inducing power band or such shattering
straight-line speed allied to questionable
handling. And as for the 750 cc version ...
The first Superbike, Kawasaki’s 900 cc Z1
The triples perfectly suited the late ‘60s,
fitting in well with the student demonstrations
of 1968 and the anti-establishment ethos of
the Summer of Love. Unfortunately, the oil
crisis would put an end to the thirsty strokers
but Kawasaki had another high-performance
ace up their corporate sleeve. Or rather they
thought they did.
The 1968 Tokyo Show saw probably the
single most significant new motorcycle ever
made unveiled: the Honda CB750. At
Kawasaki it caused a major shock, for they
also had a 750 cc four, code-nam ed New
York Steak, almost ready to roll and it was a
double, rather than single, overhead cam
motor. Bravely, they took the decision to go
ahead - but with the motor taken out to 900
cc. The result was the Z1, unveiled at the
1972 Cologne Show. It was a bike straight out
of the same mould as the H1, scare stories
spread about unmanageable power, dubious
straight-line stability and frightening handling,
none of which stopped the sales graph
rocketing upwards and led to the coining of
the term ‘superbike’. While rising fuel prices
cut short development of the big two-strokes,
the Z1 went on to found a dynasty, indeed its
genes can still be detected in Kawasaki’s
latest products like the ZZ-R1100 (Ninja
ZX-11).
This is another characteristic of the way
Kawasaki operates. Models quite often have
very long lives, or gradually evolve. There is
no major difference between that first Z1 and
the air-cooled GPz range. Add water-cooling
and you have the GPZ900, which in turn
metamorphosed into the GPZ1000RX and
then the ZX-10 and the ZZ-R1100. Indeed, the One of the two-stroke engined KH and KE range - the KE100B
o*6 Introduction
custom s were dire, you sim ply got the I
impression that the team that designed them I
didn’t have their heart in the job. Only when L
the Classic range appeared in 1995 did they I
get it right.

Racing success
awasaki also have a more focused 1

K approach to racing than the other


factories. The policy has always been to
race the road bikes and with just a couple of
I
I
exceptions th a t’s what th ey’ve done. Even I
Sim m onds’ cham pionship winner bore a I
strong resemblance to the twins they were
selling in the late ‘60s and racing versions of I
the 500 and 750 cc triples were also sold as «
over-the-counter racers, the H1R and H2R. '
The 500 was in the forefront of the two-stroke '
assault on MV Agusta but wasn’t a Grand Prix |
winner. It was the 750 that made the impact I
and carried the factory’s image in F750 racing |l
against the Suzuki triples and Yamaha fours.
The factory’s decision to use green, usually |
regarded as an unlucky colour in sport, meant
its bikes and personnel stood out and the I
phrase ‘Green Meanies’ fitted them perfectly. |
The Z1 motor soon became a full 1000 cc and I'
powered Kawasaki’s assault in F1 racing, I'
notably in endurance which Kawasaki saw as
being most closely related to its road bikes.
That didn’t stop them dominating 250 and
350 cc GPs with a tandem twin two-stroke in I
the late ‘70s and early ‘80s, but their path-
breaking monocoque 500 while a race winner
never won a world title. When Superbike
The GT750 - a favourite hack for despatch riders arrived, Kawasaki’s road 750s weren’t as I
track-friendly as the opposition’s out-and-out f
last three models share the same 58 mm single-cylinder air-cooled tw o-stroke learner race replicas. This makes Scott Russell’s a
stroke. The bikes are obviously very different bikes, the GT550 and 750 shaft-drive hacks World title on the ZXR750 in 1993 even more |
but it’s difficult to put your finger on exactly favoured by big city despatch riders and the praiseworthy, for the homologation bike, the I
why. GPz305 being prime examples. It’s only when ZXR750RR, was much heavier and much 1
Other models have remained effectively they step outside the performance field that more of a road bike than the Italian and 1
untouched for over a decade: the KH and KE Kawasakis seems less sure. Their first factory Japanese competition.
The company’s Supersport 600 contenders ,
have similarly been more sports-tourers than
race-replicas, yet they too have been
competitive on the track. Indeed, the flagship I
bike, the ZZ-R1100, is most definitely a sports
tourer capable of carrying tw o people and
their luggage at high speed in comfort all day I
and then doing it again the next day. Try that
on one of the race replicas and you’ll be in I
need of a course of treatm ent from a
chiropractor.
Through doing it their way Kawasaki |j
developed a brand loyalty for their
performance bikes that kept the Z1’s
derivatives in production until the m id-’80s
and turned the bike into a classic in its model
life. You could even argue that the Z1 lives on
in the shape of the 1100 Zephyr’s GPz1100- I
derived motor. And that’s another Kawasaki
invention, the retro bike. But when you look at
what many commentators refer to as the retro
boom, especially in Japan, you find that it is
no such thing. It is the Zephyr boom. Just
another example of Japan’s most surprising
The high-performance ZXR750 motorcycle manufacturer getting it right again.
Introduction 0.7
The ZX600 models
hen you think about the 600 cc

W supersport class you tend to assume


that any major m anufacturer’s
leading bike in that sector would be an out-
and-out race replica - especially if that
manufacturer is Kawasaki. But in the case of
the ZZ-R600 (known as the Ninja ZX-6 in the
US) you’d be wrong. Sure the bike had some
success on the track but in essence it is a
smaller version of its 1100 cc big brother. The
big ZZ-R was in its time the fastest thing on
the roads but it was never a racer like the
Yamaha EXUP or Suzuki GSX-R. You can
make the same comparison in the 600 class
with the smaller ZZ-R and Yamaha’s FZR and,
to a lesser extent, Honda’s CBR. Think of the
Kawasaki as a middleweight Gran Tourisimo
and you won’t go far wrong.
Indeed at the launch of the first model, the Kawasaki ZX600D
D1 of 1990, Kawasaki were keen to
emphasise the bike’s touring potential, bike was almost entirely different from the bore, remained the same, the E-model’s motor
referring to its ‘real world riding position’ and original. was completely re-engineered.
the fact that it was ‘upsized’ , meaning The most obvious difference was the The chassis also got a major makeover.
presumably that it was big enough to be adoption of the Twin Ram Air intake system Instead of being fabricated from extruded
comfortable for two people and their luggage. and its aggressive double air scoops on the sections joining the steering head and
Although the bike was obviously related to the front of the fairing under the headlight. swingarm pivot castings as on the D-model,
ZX600A and ZX600C that had gone before, it Whereas the D-model had shaped ducts and a the extrusions were replaced by pressings.
had an all new engine layout with an big airbox for intake air management all However, the modifications made no difference
aluminium frame. Kawasaki have always carefully hidden from outside view, the to the bike’s weight which remained constant
evolved their bikes from model to model, but E-model made a styling statement out of the at 195 kg. Other major components like the 41
here was a quantum jum p in their necessity to manage its intake and gained a mm front forks were also unchanged but the
middleweight thinking. The result was an very distinctive image along the way. The bike looked completely different.
outstanding all-rounder that was bigger, engine retained its 64 x 46.6 mm bore and The effect was to change the bike by giving
plusher and actually faster than the class- stroke but the internals were all lightened. Even it a more efficient m otor with noticeably
leading Honda but with the luxuries of twin the valve stems were thinned down, which improved top-end power but in its essential
tripmeters, retractable luggage hooks and a meant the valve spings could have a lighter rate character the ZZ-R600 remained unchanged
centre stand. and the cam followers could therefore be as the prime example of a m iddleweight
The D range was good enough to stay lightened. At the bottom end, the reciprocating sports tourer, a designation usually saved for
largely unchanged for three years before the weight was cut down by enough to allow much bigger bikes. And th a t’s exactly what
E1 appeared for the 1993 model year. The the big-end crankpin size to be reduced. the little ZZ-R is: it’s the m iddleweight that
basic concept stayed the same, but the new Although outward signs, like the carburettor thinks it’s a litre bike.

Acknowledgments About this Manual shop must pass on to you to cover its labour
and overhead costs. An added benefit is the

O
ur thanks are due to Kawasaki Motors he aim of this manual is to help you get
(UK) Ltd for providing technical
information and for giving permission
to reproduce certain illustrations used in this
manual. We would also like to thank NGK
T the best value from your motorcycle. It
can do so in several ways. It can help
you decide what work must be done, even if
you choose to have it done by a dealer; it
sense of satisfaction and accom plishm ent
that you feel after doing the job yourself.
References to the left or right side of the
m otorcycle assume you are sitting on the
seat, facing forward.
Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the color provides information and procedures for
spark plug condition photos and the Avon routine maintenance and servicing; and it We take great pride in the accuracy of
Rubber Company for supplying information offers diagnostic and repair procedures to information given in this manual, but
on tire fitting. follow when trouble occurs. motorcycle manufacturers make
We hope you use the manual to tackle the alterations and design changes during the
Thanks are also due to the Kawasaki work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it production run of a particular motorcycle
Information Service for supplying color yourself may be quicker than arranging an of which they do not inform us. No liability
transparencies and to Julian Ryder for writing appointm ent to get the m otorcycle into a can be accepted by the authors or
the introduction ’The Green Meanies’. dealer and making the trips to leave it and publishers for loss, damage or injury
pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money caused by any errors in, or omissions from,
can be saved by avoiding the expense the the information given.
o»8 Safety first!
Professional mechanics are trained in safe • Always disconnect the battery earth • Always disconnect the battery ground
working procedures. However enthusiastic terminal before working on any part of the fuel (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or
you may be about getting on with the job at or electrical system, and never risk spilling electrical systems (except where noted).
hand, take the time to ensure that your safety fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. • If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover
is not put at risk. A moment’s lack of attention • It is recommended that a fire extinguisher when charging the battery from an external
can result in an accident, as can failure to of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or
observe simple precautions. kept handy in the garage or workplace at all the battery may burst.
There will always be new ways of having times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or • Take care when topping up, cleaning or
accidents, and the following is not a electrical fire with water. carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte,
comprehensive list of all dangers; it is evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive and
intended rather to make you aware of the risks Fumes should not be allowed to contact the eyes or
and to encourage a safe approach to all work • Certain fumes are highly toxic and can skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles
you carry out on your bike. quickly cause unconsciousness and even or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare
death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol vapour electrolyte yourself, always add the acid
Asbestos comes into this category, as do the vapours slowly to the water; never add the water to the
• Certain friction, insulating, sealing and from certain solvents such as trichloro- acid.
other products - such as brake pads, clutch ethylene. Any draining or pouring of such
linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. volatile fluids should be done in a well Electricity
Extreme care must be taken to avoid ventilated area. • When using an electric power tool,
inhalation of dust from such products since it • When using cleaning fluids and solvents, inspection light etc., always ensure that the
is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume read the instructions carefully. Never use appliance is correctly connected to its plug
that they do contain asbestos. materials from unmarked containers - they and that, where necessary, it is properly
may give off poisonous vapours. grounded (earthed). Do not use such
Fire • Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in appliances in damp conditions and, again,
• Remember at all times that petrol is highly an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust beware of creating a spark or applying
flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of fumes contain carbon monoxide which is excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel
naked flame around, when working on the extremely poisonous; if you need to run the vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet
vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a engine, always do so in the open air or at least national safety standards.
spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by have the rear of the vehicle outside the • A severe electric shock can result from
two metal surfaces contacting each other, by workplace. touching certain parts of the electrical system,
careless use of tools, or even by static such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when
electricity built up in your body under certain The battery the engine is running or being cranked,
conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in • Never cause a spark, or allow a naked particularly if components are damp or the
a confined space is highly explosive. Never light near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally insulation is defective. Where an electronic
use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen ignition system is used, the secondary (HT)
approved safety solvent. gas, which is highly explosive. voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Remember... X D o n ’t rush to finish a job or take


unverified short cuts.
✓ Do remove rings, wristwatch etc., before
working on the vehicle - especially the
X D o n ’t allow children or animals in or electrical system.
X Don’t start the engine without first around an unattended vehicle. ✓ Do keep your work area tidy - it is only
ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral. X D o n’t inflate a tyre above the too easy to fall over articles left lying
X Don’t suddenly remove the pressure cap recommended pressure. Apart from around.
from a hot cooling system - cover it with a overstressing the carcass, in extreme cases ✓ Do exercise caution when compressing
cloth and release the pressure gradually first, the tyre may blow off forcibly. springs for removal or installation. Ensure
or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. ✓ Do ensure that the machine is supported that the tension is applied and released in a
X D o n’t attempt to drain oil until you are securely at all times. This is especially controlled manner, using suitable tools
sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid important when the machine is blocked up which preclude the possibility of the spring
scalding you. to aid wheel or fork removal. escaping violently.
X D o n ’t grasp any part of the engine or ✓ Do take care when attempting to loosen
✓ Do ensure that any lifting tackle used has
exhaust system without first ascertaining a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better
a safe working load rating adequate for the
that it is cool enough not to burn you. to pull on a spanner, rather than push, so
job.
X D o n’t allow brake fluid or antifreeze to that if you slip, you fall away from the
✓ Do get someone to check periodically
contact the machine’s paintwork or plastic machine rather than onto it.
components. that all is well, when working alone on the
✓ Do wear eye protection when using
X D on’t siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, power tools such as drill, sander, bench vehicle.
hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or ✓ Do carry out work in a logical sequence
grinder etc.
allow them to remain on your skin. ✓ Do use a barrier cream on your hands and check that everything is correctly
X Don’t inhale dust - it may be injurious to prior to undertaking dirty jobs - It will assembled and tightened afterwards.
health (see Asbestos heading). protect your skin from infection as well as ✓ Do remember that your vehicle’s safety
X D on’t allow any spilled oil or grease to making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; affects that of yourself and others. If in
remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, but make sure your hands aren’t left doubt on any point, get professional
before someone slips on it. slippery. Note that long-term contact with advice.
X D o n ’t use ill-fitting spanners or other used engine oil can be a health hazard. • If in spite of following these precautions,
tools which may slip and cause injury. ✓ Do keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. you are unfortunate enough to injure
X Don’t lift a heavy component which may and long hair) well out of the way of moving yourself, seek medical attention as soon as
be beyond your capability - get assistance. mechanical parts. possible.
Identification numbers 0.9
Frame and engine numbers UK ZZ-R 600 models:
The frame serial number is stamped into the Year Model Initial frame number
right side of the steering head and the engine 1990 ZX600-D1 ZX600D-000001
serial number is stamped into the right engine 1991 ZX600-D2 ZX600D-014001 to 028000
case. Both of these numbers should be 1991 ZX600-D2A ZX600D-600001 to 602500
recorded and kept in a safe place so they can 1992/3 ZX600-D3 ZX600D-028001 on (Japan manufacture)
be furnished to law enforcement officials in 1992/3 ZX600-D3 ZX600D-602501 on (USA manufacture)
the event of theft. 1993 ZX600-E1 ZX600E-000001 to 020000
The frame serial number, engine serial 1994 ZX600-E2 ZX600E-020001 to 032000
number and carburetor identification number 1995 ZX600-E3 ZX600E-032001 on
should also be kept in a handy place (such as 1996 ZX600-E4 ZX600E-038001 to 045000
with your driver’s license) so they are always 1997 ZX600-E5 ZX600E-045001 on
available when purchasing or ordering parts 1998 ZX600-E6 ZX600E-050001 on
for your machine. 1999 ZX600-E7 JKAZX600EEA057001 on
The accompanying table gives a 2000 ZX600-E8 Not available
breakdown of the initial frame numbers for
each model and year of production. US Ninja Z X -6 models:
1990 ZX600-D1 JKAZX4D1 *I_A000001 on, or JKAZX4D1*LB500001 on
Buying spare parts 1991 ZX600-D2 JKAZX4D1 *MA014001 on, or JKAZX4D1*MB502201 on
Once you have found all the identification 1992 ZX600-D3 JKAZX4D1 "NA028001 on, JKAZX4D1*NB505201 on,
numbers, record them for reference when or ZX600D-028001 on
buying parts. Since the manufacturers change 1993 ZX600-D4 JKAZX4D1 *PB508301 on
specifications, parts and vendors (companies 1993 ZX600-E1 JKAZX4E1 *PA000001 on, or JKAZX4E1*PB500001 on
that manufacture various components on the 1994 ZX600-E2 JKAZX4E1 *RA020001 on, or JKAZX4E1*RB503201 on
machine), providing the ID numbers is the only 1995 ZX600-E3 Not available
way to be reasonably sure that you are buying 1996 ZX600-E4 JKAZX4E1*TA038001 on, or JKAZX4E1*TB510151 on
the correct parts. 1997 ZX600-E5 JKAZX4E1 *VA045001 on, or JKAZX4E1 *VB511801 on
Whenever possible, take the worn part to 1998 ZX600-E6 JKAZX4E1 'WA050001 on, or JKAZX4E1‘WB513101 on
the dealer so direct comparison with the new 1999 ZX600-E7 JKAZX4E1 ‘ XA057001 on, or JKAZX4E1*XB514301 on
component can be made. Along the trail from 2000 ZX600-E8 JKAZX4E1 *YA065001 on, or JKAZX4E1*YB515601 on
the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are * This digit in the frame number changes from one machine to another.
numerous places that the part can end up with
the wrong number or be listed incorrectly.
The two places to purchase new parts for
your motorcycle - the accessory store and the
franchised dealer - differ in the type of parts
they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually
every part for your cycle, the accessory dealer i w a inn im *”• ■'
f t * m tii tu iT iiiW m in
is usually limited to normal high wear items I'M c ihxta tiHmtu
««1 m us mi tit aai; m
such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, 5 O M ITS SS M II II m CM
J.K AZXD LXXXXXXXXX
various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake HftMCTOf
parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have
major suspension components, cylinders,
transmission gears, or cases.
The frame number is stamped on the and may also be displayed on decals
Used parts can be obtained for roughly half
steering head . . .
the price of new ones, but you can’t always be
sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take
your worn part to the wrecking yard (breaker)
for direct comparison.
Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts,
the best course is to deal directly with
someone who specializes in parts for your
particular make.

The engine number is located on the right


side of the crankcase
o.io Daily (pre-ride) checks
1 Engine/transmission oil level The correct oil
• Modern, high-rewing engines place great
demands on their oil. It is very important
that the correct oil for your bike is used.
Before you start: Bike care: • Always top up with a good quality oil of
✓ Place the motorcycle on the centerstand, • If you have to add oil frequently, you should the specified type and viscosity and do not
then start the engine and allow it to reach check whether you have any oil leaks. If there overfill the engine.
normal operating temperature. is no sign of oil leakage from the joints and
Caution: Do not run the engine in an gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see Oil type API grade SE, SF or SG
enclosed space such as a garage or shop. Fault Finding). Oil viscosity
✓ Stop the engine and allow the machine to Cold climates SAE 10W40 or SAE 10W50
sit undisturbed for about five minutes. Warm climates SAE 20W40 or SAE 20W50

I With the engine off, check the oil level in the window located at the
lower part of the right crankcase cover. The oil level should be
between the Maximum and Minimum level marks on the window.
2 If the level is below the Minimum mark, remove the oil filler cap
from the right crankcase cover and add enough oil of the
recommended grade and type to bring the level up to the
Maximum mark. Do not overfill.

2 Coolant level
Before you start: Bike care:
✓ The engine must be cold for the results to • Use only the specified coolant mixture. It is • Do not overfill the coolant reservoir. The
be accurate, so always perform this check important that antifreeze is used in the cooling coolant level is satisfactory if it is between the
before starting the engine for the first time system all year round, not just during the Low and Full marks on the reservoir.
each day. winter months. Don’t top-up with water • If the coolant level seems to be consistently
✓ Place the m otorcycle on the centerstand. alone, as the antifreeze will become too low, check the entire cooling system for
Make sure the motorcycle is on level ground. diluted. leaks.

1 Remove the seat to view the coolant level. The coolant reservoir is
located under the right frame rail of the seat subframe. 2 If the level is at or below the Low mark, remove the right side
cover (see Chapter 8), unscrew the reservoir filler cap and add the
recommended coolant mixture (see Chapter 1 Specifications) until
the Full level is reached.
Daily (pre-ride) checks 0.11

3 Brake fluid Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted

levels A surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover
surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing
open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start: Bike care:


✓ Make sure you have the correct hydraulic • In order to ensure proper operation of the • Check the operation of the brakes before
fluid - DOT 3 (D models) or DOT 4 (E models). hydraulic disc brake, the fluid level in the taking the machine on the road; if there is
✓ With the motorcycle held level, turn the master cylinder reservoir must be properly evidence of air in the system (spongy feel to
handlebars until the top of the master cylinder maintained. If the brake fluid level was low, lever or pedal), it must be bled as described in
is as level as possible. inspect the brake system for leaks. Chapter 7.
✓ Unless the rear master cylinder reservoir is • The fluid in the brake master cylinder • Before removing the master cylinder cap,
clean, it is difficult to read the fluid level reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads protect the motorcycle from brake fluid spills
through the slot. You may have to remove the wear down. (which will damage the paint) and remove all
right side cover (see Chapter 8) and wipe off dust and dirt from the area around the cap.
the side of the reservoir.

Add new, clean brake fluid of the


I Look closely at the inspection window in Remove the screws and lift off the cap
the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure
that the fluid level is above the Lower
2 and rubber diaphragm. Note: Do not
operate the brake lever with the cap
3 recommended type until the level is
above the inspection window. Do not mix
mark on the reservoir (arrow). If the level is removed. different brands of brake fluid in the reservoir,
low, the fluid must be replenished. as they may not be compatible.

Replace the rubber diaphragm and the A sight window is provided for checking The fluid level should be between the
4 cover. Tighten the screws evenly, but do 5 the fluid level in the rear master cylinder 6 Upper and Lower marks. If it isn’t,
unscrew the cap, and add the
not overtighten them. reservoir.
recommended brake fluid until the level is at
the Upper mark.

4 Suspension, steering and drive chain


Suspension and Steering: Drive chain:
• Make sure the steering operates smoothly, without looseness and • Make sure the drive chain isn’t out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
without binding.
• Check front and rear suspension for smooth operation.
Daily (pre-ride) checks on
3 Brake fluid Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted

levels A surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover
surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing
open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start: Bike care:


✓ Make sure you have the correct hydraulic • In order to ensure proper operation of the • Check the operation of the brakes before
fluid - DOT 3 (D models) or DOT 4 (E models). hydraulic disc brake, the fluid level in the taking the machine on the road; if there is
✓ With the motorcycle held level, turn the master cylinder reservoir must be properly evidence of air in the system (spongy feel to
handlebars until the top of the master cylinder maintained. If the brake fluid level was low, lever or pedal), it must be bled as described in
is as level as possible. inspect the brake system for leaks. Chapter 7.
✓ Unless the rear master cylinder reservoir is • The fluid in the brake master cylinder • Before removing the master cylinder cap,
clean, it is difficult to read the fluid level reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads protect the motorcycle from brake fluid spills
through the slot. You may have to remove the wear down. (which will damage the paint) and remove all
right side cover (see Chapter 8) and wipe off dust and dirt from the area around the cap.
the side of the reservoir.

I Look closely at the inspection window in


the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure
that the fluid level is above the Lower
2 Remove the screws and lift off the cap
and rubber diaphragm. Note: Do not
operate the brake lever with the cap
3 Add new, clean brake fluid of the
recommended type until the level is
above the inspection window. Do not mix
mark on the reservoir (arrow). If the level is removed. different brands of brake fluid in the reservoir,
low, the fluid must be replenished. as they may not be compatible.

Replace the rubber diaphragm and the A sight window is provided for checking The fluid level should be between the
4 cover. Tighten the screws evenly, but do
not overtighten them.
5 the fluid level in the rear master cylinder
reservoir.
6 Upper and Lower marks. If it isn’t,
unscrew the cap, and add the
recommended brake fluid until the level is at
the Upper mark.

4 Suspension, steering and drive chain


Suspension and Steering: Drive chain:
• Make sure the steering operates smoothly, without looseness and • Make sure the drive chain isn’t out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
without binding.
• Check front and rear suspension for smooth operation.
o.i2 Daily (pre-ride) checks
5 Clutch
Bike care: return quickly, lubricate the cable (see required, use the coarse adjuster at the lower
• Correct clutch freeplay is necessary to Chapter 1). end of the cable at its bracket just ahead of
ensure proper clutch operation and • Too little freeplay might result in the clutch the clutch lever on the lower right side of the
reasonable clutch service life. Freeplay not engaging completely. If there is too much engine. If freeplay still can’t be adjusted within
normally changes because of cable stretch freeplay, the clutch might not release fully. the Specifications, the cable may be
and clutch wear, so it should be checked and • If a small amount of cable adjustment is stretched or the clutch may be worn. Refer to
adjusted periodically. required, use the fine adjuster at the top of the Chapter 2 for inspection and repair
• If the lever is stiff to operate and doesn’t cable. If a large amount of adjustment is procedures.

1 Slowly pull in the lever until resistance is


felt, then note how far the lever has
moved away from its bracket at the pivot
2 If freeplay is incorrect, loosen (turn
counterclockwise) the knurled lock wheel
(A), then turn the threaded adjuster (B) in
3 If the lever adjuster on the handlebar
reaches the end of its travel loosen the
knurled lock wheel (2) at the clutch lever
end (arrow). If freeplay is correct, this should or out until the desired freeplay is obtained. and turn the adjuster (1) in or out until the
measure 2 to 3 mm. Always retighten (turn clockwise) the lock gap (3) between the adjuster and lock wheel is
wheel once the adjustment is complete. about 5 to 6 mm . . .

. . . pull back the dust boot and loosen . . . pull the outer cable tight to remove all When the cable is properly adjusted, the
4 the two adjusting nuts (arrows) on the
bracket at the lower end of the cable . . .
5 slack (C), then tighten the adjusting nuts
(A) against the bracket (B). Set the
6 angle (C) between the cable (D) and the
release lever (A) should be approximately
correct freeplay at the clutch lever (see 80 to 90°, with the release lever pushed
Step 2). forwards (B).

6 Legal and safety checks


Lighting and signalling: Safety: Fuel:
• Take a minute to check that the headlight, • Check that the throttle grip rotates • This may seem obvious, but check that you
taillight, brake light and turn signals all work smoothly and snaps shut when released, in all have enough fuel to complete your journey. If
correctly. steering positions. you notice signs of fuel leakage - rectify the
• Check that the horn sounds when the • Check that the engine shuts off when the cause immediately.
switch is operated. kill switch is operated. • Ensure you use the correct grade unleaded
• A working speedometer is a statutory • Check that sidestand return spring holds fuel.
requirement in the UK. the stand securely up when retracted. The
same applies to the centerstand (where fitted).
• Following the procedure in your owner’s
manual, check the operation of the sidestand
switch.
Daily (pre-ride) checks 0.13
7 Tires
Tire care: Tire tread depth:
• At the time of writing UK law requires that
• Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, • Pick out any stones or nails which may
tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of
embedded nails or other sharp objects and have become embedded in the tire tread. If
the tread breadth all the way around the tire,
excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle left, they will eventually penetrate through the
with no bald patches. Many riders, however,
with excessively worn tires is extremely casing and cause a puncture.
consider 2 mm tread depth minimum to be a
hazardous, as traction and handling are • If tire damage is apparent, or unexplained
safer limit.
directly affected. loss of pressure is experienced, seek
• Many tires now incorporate wear indicators
• Check the condition of the tire valve and the advice of a tire fitting specialist without
in the tread. Identify the location marking on
ensure the dust cap is in place. delay.
the tire sidewall to locate the indicator bar and
replace the tire if the tread has worn down to
the bar.

The correct pressures: Tire pressures Tire tread depth


• The tires must be checked when cold, not
immediately after riding. Note that low tire Front 36 psi (2.5 bars) Front 1 mm (0.04 in)
pressures may cause the tire to slip on the rim
or come off. High tire pressures will cause Rear 41 psi (2.8 bars) Rear
abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling. up to 80 mph (130 kmh) 2 mm (0.08 in)
• Use an accurate pressure gauge. over 80 mph (130 kmh) 3 mm (0.12 in)
• Proper air pressure will increase tire life
and provide maximum stability and ride
comfort.

1 Check the tire pressures when the tires


are cold and keep them properly inflated.
Q
^
Measure the tread depth at the center of
the tire using a tread depth gauge.
O
O
Tire tread wear indicator bar and location
marking on the sidewall (arrows).
hapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Contents
filter element - s e rv ic in g .....................................................................14 Evaporative emission control system (California models only) -
attery condition - check .......................................................................17 c h e c k .......................................................................................................... 7
'ake fluid - re n e w a l................................................... ............................ 27 Fasteners - c h e c k .................................................................. ................. 18
nke hoses - replacem ent.............................................................. .. 33 Fork oil - re p la ce m e n t...................... ; .....................................................25
■ake master cylinder and caliper seals - replacement .................... 28 Fuel hoses - replacement ....................................................................... 32
rake pad thickness - c h e c k ................................................................... 9 Fuel system - check and filter cle a n in g .................................................19
rake system - general c h e c k ................................................................ 10 Lubrication - general ................................................................................ 11
arburetors - synchronization and idle s p e e d ................................. ■. 6 Spark plugs - replacement ............. .............................................. 24
loke cable - check and a d ju s tm e n t................................................... 12 Spark plugs - s e rv ic in g ........................................................................... 3
lean air system - c h e c k ......................................................................... 4 Speedometer gear - lubrication ............................................ ............... 31
©lant filter (UK E models only) - description and maintenance . . 26 Steering head bearings - check anc* adjustment ............................... 15
Doling system - servicing ............................... ..................................... 23 Steering head bearings - lu b ric a tio n ..................................................... 29
flinder compression - check ............................... ...............................21 Suspension - c h e c k .................................................................................. 20
Ive chain - lubrication ......................................................................... 1 Throttle operation/grip freeplay - check and a d ju s tm e n t.................. 5
ive chain and sprockets - check and adjustment ........................... 2 Tires/wheels - general check ................................................................ 16
Ive chain and sprockets - check for w e a r ........................................ 8 Valve clearances - check and adjustment .......................................... 22
tgine oil/filter - c h a n g e ............................... ..................................... . . 1 3 Wheel bearings - lu b ric a tio n .............................................................. , 30

)egrees of difficulty
y, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult Difficult, suitable for Very difficult, ^
novicewith little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY ^
experience some experience DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional

pecifications
ngine
Dark plugs
Type
D models
US m o d e ls........................................................................................... NGK C9E or ND U27ES-N
UK and Canadian m o d e ls ................................................................ NGK CR9E or ND U27ESR-N
E models (US, UK and C anadian)....................................................... ..... NGK CR9E or ND U27ESR-N
Gap (all models) .............................................................................................. 0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 inch)
igine idle speed
All except California m o d e ls .......................................................................... 1000 to 1100 rpm
California models ............................................................................................ 1250 to 1350 rpm
live clearances (COLD engine)
Intake ......................................................................................................... ..... 0.15 to 0.24 mm (0.006 to 0.009 inch)
Exhaust........................................................................................ '.............. ..... 0.22 to 0.31 mm (0.009 to 0.012 inch)
Jylinder compression pressure
Acceptable range .., .........v............................ ........................' . . . . . . . 139 to 213 psi @ 350 rpm (9.8 to 15 kg/cm 2)
Maximum difference between c y lin d e rs ................................................ ..... 18 psi (1.2 kg/cm 2)
"arburetor synchronization (vacuum difference between cylinders) . . . Less than 2.7 kPa (2 cm Hg)
Under numbering (from left side to right side of b ik e )................................ 1 -2-3-4
firing o rd e r................. ................................................................................... ..... 1-2-4-3
1.2 Servicing specifications
Miscellaneous
Brake pad minimum thickness........................................................... 1 mm (3/64-inch)
Choke cable freeplay ........................................................................ 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)
Clutch lever freeplay.......................................................................... 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)
Throttle grip freeplay ........................................................................ 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)
Drive chain
Slack............................................................................................. 35 to 40 mm (1.38 to 1.57 inch)
20-link length ............................................................................... 323 mm (12.73 inch) maximum
Battery electrolyte specific gravity..................................................... 1.260 minimum
Minimum tire tread depth
F ro n t............................................................................................. 1.0 mm (0.040 inch)
Rear
Up to 130 km/h (80 mph) ........................................................... 2 mm (0.0788 inch)
Over 130 km/h (80 m ph)............................................................. 3 mm (0.1182 inch)
Tire pressures (cold)
F ro n t............................................................................................. 36 psi (2.5 kg/cm*)
Rear............................................................................................... 41 psi (2.9 kg/cm2)

Torque specifications
Oil drain plug .............................................................................. .. . • 20 Nm (174 in-lbs)
Oil filte r ............................................................................................. 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
Coolant drain b o lt.............................................................................. 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
Spark plugs........................................................................................ 14 Nm (120 in-lbs)
Valve cover bolts .............................................................................. 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)

Recommended lubricants and fluids


Engine/transmission oil
Type ............................................................................................. API grade SE, SF or SG multi-viscosity
Viscosity
In cold climates.......................................................................... SAE 10W40 or 10W50
In warm climates........................................................................ SAE 20W40 or 20W50
Capacity
At oil and filter change ............................................................... 3.2 liters
Dry engine (following rebuild) ..................................................... 3.7 liters
Coolant
Type ............................................................................................. 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and soft water
Capacity ........................................ ............................................... 2.5 liters
Brake fluid grade
D models....................................................................................... DOT 3
E models........................................................................................ DOT 4
Fork oil
Type
D models and E1, E2 m odels..................................................... SAE 10W20 fork oil
E3-on models ............................................................................ SAE 10W
Capacity
D models
At oil change.......................................................................... 384 cc
Completely dry ...................................................................... 452 cc
E1 and E2 models
At oil change......................................................................... 429 cc
Completely dry ...................................................................... 505 cc
E3-on models
At oil change......................................................................... 405 cc
Completely dry ........................................ ............ ........... 477 ± 4 cc
Oil level (distance from oil to top of fork tube, fork fully compressed, without spring)
D models................................................... .............................. 140 mm (5.52 inches)
E1 and E2 models...................................................................... 98 mm (3.86 inches)
E3-on models ............................................................................ 112 ± 2 mm (4.41 ± 0.08 inches)

Miscellaneous
Wheel bearings................................................................................ Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Swingarm pivot bearings .................................... .............. Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Cables and lever pivots ....................................................... Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Sidestand/centerstand pivots............................................................. Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Brake pedal/shift lever pivots........................................................... Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil
Throttle grip .................................................................................... Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant
Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined at the front o f this manual
covers checks and maintenance that should be carried out on a daily Every 3000 miles (5000 km) (cont.)
basis. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance
Interval fin addition to the procedures listed. The intervals listed below
□ Check/adjust the choke cable (Section 12)
are the shortest intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each 3 Change the engine oil and oil filter (Section 13)
•particular operation during the model years covered in this manual. □ Clean the air filter element (Section 14)
Your owner's manual may have different intervals for your model. O Check the steering (Section 15)
□ Check the tires and wheels (Section 16)
□ Check the battery electrolyte level (if possible)
Daily or before riding (Section 17)
C See ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of this □ Check the exhaust system for leaks (Section 18)
Manual. □ Check the tightness of all fasteners (Section 18)

Every 200 miles (300 km) Every 6000 miles (10,000 km)
All of the 'Daily (pre-ride) checks ’ plus the following
All of the 3000 miles (5000 km) maintenance tasks plus the following
0 Lubricate the drive chain (Section 1) □ Check the cleanliness of the fuel system and the
condition of the fuel and vacuum hoses (Section 19)
□ Lubricate the swingarm needle bearings and
After the initial 500 miles (800 km) suspension linkage (Section 20)
Note: This check is usually performed by a Kawasaki dealer after the □ Check the cylinder compression (Section 21)
first 500 miles from new. Thereafter, maintenance is carried out □ Check/adjust the valve clearances (Section 22)
lacccording to the following intervals of the schedule. □ Replace the spark plugs (Section 23)

Every 500 miles (800 km)


All of the ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks ' plus the following Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km)
All o f the 6000 miles (10,000 km) maintenance tasks plus the
|0 Check/adjust the drive chain slack (Section 2) following
□ Check the cooling system and replace the coolant
(Section 24)
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) □ Change the fork oil (Section 25)
All of the 200 and 500 miles (300 and 800 km) maintenance tasks
plus the following
L Clean and gap the spark plugs (Section 3)
□ Check the operation of the Clean Air System (if Once a year
__ equipped) (Section 4) □ Clean the coolant filter (UK models only) (Section 26)
f Check the throttle for smooth operation and
correct freeplay (Section 5)
H Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization and
the idle speed (Section 6) Every two years
G Check the evaporative emission control system □ Change the brake fluid (Section 27)
(California models) (Section 7) □ Rebuild the brake calipers and master cylinders
[I Check the drive chain and sprockets for wear (Section 28)
(Section 8) □ Lubricate the steering head bearings (Section 29)
□ Check the brake discs and pads (Section 9) □ Check and lubricate the wheel bearings
□ Check/adjust the brake pedal position (Section 10) _ (Section 30)
□ Check the operation of the brake light (Section 10) □ Lubricate the speedometer gear (Section 31)
D Lubricate the clutch and brake lever pivots
(Section 11)
D Lubricate the shift/brake pedal pivots and the Every four years
sidestand/centerstand pivots (Section 11)
C Lubricate all cables (Section 11) □ Replace the fuel hoses (Section 32)
Q Replace the brake hoses (Section 33)
4
Component locations
V .

I__ ___________
Component locations on right side
1 Coolant reservoir 5 Radiator cap 9 Engine/transmission oil sightglass
2 Rear brake fluid reservoir 6 Engine/transmission oil filler 10 Rear brake pedal adjuster
3 Throttle cable upper adjuster 7 Clutch cable lower adjuster 11 Rear brake light switch
4 F ro n t b ra k e flu id re s e rv o ir 8 E n g in e /tra n s m is s io n o il d ra in b o lt
Component locations
Component locations on left side
1 Steering head bearings adjuster 5 Air filter - D models 9 Engine/transmission oil filter
2 Clutch cable upper adjuster 6 Battery 10 Front fork oil drain bolt - O models
3 Air filter - E models 7 Idle speed adjuster - E models 11 Front fork seals
4 Idle speed adjuster - D models 8 Coolant drain bolt cn
1.6 Introduction
This Chapter covers in detail the checks Deciding where to start or plug into the initially and then settle into the maintenance
and procedures necessary for the tune-up routine maintenance schedule depends on schedule prescribed.
and routine maintenance of your motorcycle, several factors. If you have a m otorcycle The Sections which actually outline the
and includes the routine maintenance whose warranty has recently expired, and if it inspection and maintenance procedures are
schedule, which is designed to keep the has been maintained according to the written as step-by-step comprehensive
machine in proper running condition and warranty standards, you may want to pick-up guides to the actual performance of the work.
prevent possible problems. The remaining routine maintenance as it coincides with the They explain in detail each of the routine
Sections contain detailed procedures for next mileage or calendar interval. If you have inspections and maintenance procedures on
carrying out the items listed on the owned the machine for some time but have the check list. References to additional
maintenance schedule, as well as additional never performed any maintenance on it, then information in applicable Chapters is also
maintenance information designed to increase you may want to start at the nearest interval included and should not be overlooked.
reliability. and include some additional procedures to Before beginning any actual maintenance or
Since routine maintenance plays such an ensure that nothing important is overlooked. If repair, the machine should be cleaned
im portant role in the safe and efficient you have just had a major engine overhaul, thoroughly, especially around the oil filter
operation of your motorcycle, it is presented then you may want to start the maintenance housing, spark plugs, cylinder head covers, side
here as a comprehensive check list. For the routine from the beginning. If you have a used covers, carburetors, etc. Cleaning will help
rider who does all his own maintenance, these machine and have no knowledge of its history ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine
lists outline the procedures and checks that or maintenance record, you may desire to and will allow you to detect wear and damage
should be done on a routine basis. combine all the checks into one large service that could otherwise easily go unnoticed.

Every 200 miles (300 km)


apply it to the area where the side plates applying the lubricant, let it soak in a few |
1 Drive chain - lubrication
% overlap - not the middle of the rollers. After minutes before wiping off any excess.

Apply chain lubricant to the joints


Note: If the chain is extremely dirty, it should between the side plates, pins, bushings
be removed and cleaned before it is lubricated and rollers to provide lubrication of the
(see Chapter 6). internal load bearing areas - not the
1 The best time to lubricate the chain is after middle of the rollers. With the bike on its
the m otorcycle has been ridden. When the centerstand, hold the plastic nozzle near
chain is warm, the lubricant will penetrate the the edge of the chain and turn the wheel
joints between the side plates, pins, bushings by hand as the lubricant sprays out;
and rollers to provide lubrication of the repeat this procedure on the inside edge
internal load bearing areas. o f the chain
2 Use a good quality chain lubricant and

Every 500 miles (800 km)


or kinked, it’s time to replace it with a new one. length listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If
Drive chain and sprockets
check and adjustment
% 4 Remove the chain guard (it’s held on by two
bolts). Check the entire length of the chain for
any of your measurements exceed the
maximum, replace the chain. Note: Never
I damaged rollers, loose links and pins. Hang a
20-lb weight on the bottom run of the chain
install a new chain on old sprockets, and never
use the old chain if you install new sprockets -
and measure the length of 20 links along the replace the chain and sprockets as a set.
Check top run. Rotate the wheel and repeat this 5 Remove the engine sprocket cover (see
1 A neglected drive chain won’t last long and check at several places on the chain, since it Chapter 7, Section 15). Check the teeth on the
can quickly damage the sprockets. Routine may wear unevenly. Compare your engine sprocket and the rear sprocket for
chain adjustment and lubrication isn’t difficult measurements with the maximum 20-link wear (see illustration).
and will ensure maximum chain and sprocket
life.
2 To check the chain, place the bike on its Worn Tooth Worn Tooth
centerstand and shift the transmission into (Engine Sprocket) (Rear Sprocket)
Neutral. Make sure the ignition switch is off.
3 Push up on the bottom run of the chain and
measure the slack midway between the two
sprockets (see illustration), then compare
your measurements to the value listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. As wear occurs, the
chain will actually stretch, which means
adjustment usually involves removing some
slack from the chain. In some cases where
lubrication has been neglected, corrosion and
galling may cause the links to bind and kink, 2.3 Push up on the bottom run of the 2.5 Check the teeth on both sprockets to
which effectively shortens the chain’s length. If chain and measure the slack midway determine whether they are excessively
the chain is tight between the sprockets, rusty between the two sprockets worn
Every 500 miles (800 km) w

2,7 Before adjusting the chain, loosen 2.8 Remove the cotter pin and loosen the 2.9 Loosen and back-off the locknuts on
both torque link nuts (arrows) axle nut the chain adjuster bolts

Adjustment evenly to keep the rear wheel in alignment. If


the adjusting bolts reach the end of their travel,
6 Place the bike on its centerstand and shift
the chain is excessively worn and should be
the transmission into Neutral. Make sure the
replaced with a new one (see Chapter 6).
ignition switch is off. Rotate the rear wheel
11 When the chain has the correct amount of
until the chain is positioned with the least
slack, make sure the marks on the adjusters
amount of slack present. correspond to the same relative marks on
7 Loosen both torque link nuts (see each side of the swingarm (see illustration).
illustration). Tighten the axle nut to the torque listed in the
8 Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle Chapter 7 Specifications, then install a new
nut (see illustration). cotter pin. If necessary, turn the nut an
9 Loosen and back-off the locknuts on the additional amount to line up the cotter pin
chain adjuster bolts (see illustration). hole with the castellations in the nut - don’t
10 Turn the axle adjusting bolts on both sides 2.11 When the chain is adjusted, make
loosen the nut to do this.
sure the marks on the swingarm
of the swingarm until the proper chain tension 12 Tighten the locknuts and the torque link
correspond on each side
isobtained. Be sure to turn the adjusting bolts nut securely.

Every 3000 miles (5000 km)


square edges and the side electrode should insulator). If in doubt concerning the condition
3 Spark plugs - servicing
% be of uniform thickness. Look for excessive
deposits and evidence of a cracked or
of the plugs, replace them with new ones, as
the expense is minimal.
chipped insulator around the center electrode. 5 Cleaning spark plugs by sandblasting is
Compare your spark plugs to the color spark permitted, provided you clean the plugs with a
1 Make sure your spark plug socket is the plug reading chart on the inside rear cover. high flash-point solvent afterwards.
correct size before attempting to remove the Check the threads, the washer and the 6 Before installing new plugs, make sure they
plugs. This motorcycle is equipped with very porcelain insulator body for cracks and other are the correct type and heat range. Check
small spark plugs. The diameter of the damage. the gap between the electrodes, as they are
threaded portion of the plugs is 12 mm; the 4 If the electrodes are not excessively worn, not preset. For best results, use a wire-type
hex for tightening a plug is 16 mm. The and if the deposits can be easily removed with gauge rather than a flat gauge to check the
factory-equipped tool kit includes a 16mm a wire brush, the plugs can be regapped and gap (see illustration). If the gap must be
hex wrench. If you don’t have this tool, use a reused (if no cracks or chips are visible in the adjusted, bend the side electrode only and be
16mm deep socket. We recommend a
quarter-inch-drive socket; most 3/8-inch-
drive sockets w on’t fit down into the spark
plug holes.
2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4), then
disconnect the spark plug caps from the
spark plugs. If available, use compressed air
to blow out any accumulated debris from the
spark plug holes. You’ll need the special tool
in the bike’s tool kit (see illustration) to
remove the plugs, or use an extension and a
16mm deep socket (preferably one with a
rubber insert to prevent damage to the plug
and to grip the plug when lifting it out of its
hole). 3.2 This is the special spark plug removal 3.6a Spark plug manufacturers
3 Inspect the electrodes for wear. Both the tool contained in the bike’s tool kit recommend using a wire-type gauge for
center and side electrodes should have checking the spark plug gap
1.8 Every 3000 miles (5000 km)

3.6b To change the gap, bend the side 4.1 Details of the air suction valves and 4.4 To disconnect the hoses from the air
electrode; be careful not to crack the hoses switching valve covers, simply pull them
center electrode insulator 1 Vacuum switching valve straight up
2 Air suction valve
very careful not to chip or crack the insulator 8 Once the plugs are finger tight, the job can 2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
nose (see illustration). Make sure the washer be finished with a socket. If a torque wrench is 3 Remove the ignition coils (see Chapter 5). i
is in place before installing each plug. available, tighten the spark plugs to the torque 4 Disconnect the hoses from the air suction
7 Since the cylinder heads are made of listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If you valves (see illustration). Remove the bolts
aluminum, which is soft and easily damaged, do not have a torque wrench, tighten the and lift off the suction valve covers.
plugs finger tight (until the washers bottom on 5 Pry the reed valve plates out of the valve
thread the plugs into the heads by hand.
the cylinder head) then use a wrench to cover (see illustration). Check the valves for
tighten them an additional 1/4 turn. cracks, warping, burning or other damage
Regardless of the method used, do not over­ (see illustration). Check the area where the
tighten them. reeds contact the valve holder for scratches,
9 Reconnect the spark plug caps. separation and grooves. If any of these
conditions are noted on either valve, replace
it.
4 Clean air system - check 6 Wash the valves with solvent if carbon has
n accumulated between the reed and the valve
holder.
7 Installation of the valves is the reverse of
1 The clean air system (see illustration), removal. Be sure to use a new gasket.
installed on US models only, consists of a pair
Since the plugs are recessed, slip a of one-way check valves that allow fresh air to
short length of hose over the end of the flow into the exhaust ports. The suction 5 Throttle operation/grip
plug to use as a tool to thread it into developed by the exhaust pulses pulls the air freeplay - ||
place. The hose will grip the plug well from the air cleaner, through a hose to the check and adjustment ^
enough to turn it, but will start to slip if vacuum switch valve, through a pair of hoses
the plug begins to cross-thread in the and two pairs of reed valves, and finally into
hole - this will prevent damaged threads the exhaust ports. The introduction of fresh air Check
and the accompanying repair costs. helps ignite any fuel that may not have been 1 Make sure the throttle grip rotates easily
burned by the normal combustion process. from fully closed to fully open with the front

4.5a Remove the retaining bolts and the valve cover, then 4.5b Check the reeds (arrows) on the air suction valve for
carefully pry the reed plate out of the cover damage and carbon build-up
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1.9

5.5 Throttle cable details


5.3 To alter the throttle freeplay, loosen the cable lockwheel (1) 7 Locknuts 3 Decelerator cable
and turn the adjuster (2) in or out 2 Adjusting nuts 4 Accelerator cable

wheel turned at various angles. The grip (see illustration), then turn both adjusting don’t work in a garage where a natural
should return automatically from fully open to nuts in completely. gas-type appliance (such as a water
fully closed when released. If the throttle 6 Turn out the adjusting nut of the decelerator heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is
sticks, check the throttle cables for cracks or cable until the inner cable becomes tight, then present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic,
kinks in the housings. Also, make sure the tighten the locknut. wear latex gloves when there’s a
inner cables are clean and well-lubricated. 7 Turn the accelerator adjusting nut until the possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if
2 Check for a small amount of freeplay at the desired freeplay is obtained, then tighten the you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
grip and compare the freeplay to the value locknut. Make sure the throttle linkage lever immediately with soap and water. Mop up
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. contacts the idle adjusting screw when the any spills immediately and do not store
throttle grip is released (see illustration) and fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
Adjustment stops against the carburetor stopper with the When you perform any kind of work on the
Note: These motorcycles use two throttle throttle grip open (see illustration). fuel system, wear safety glasses and have
cables - an accelerator cable and a a fire extinguisher suitable for a class B
decelerater cable. type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
3 Freeplay adjustments can be made at the Carburetors - synchronization ^
throttle end of the cable. Loosen the and idle speed Synchronization
lockwheel on the cable (see illustration) and 1 Out-of-sync carburetors will reduce fuel
turn the adjuster until the desired freeplay is mileage, increase engine temperature,
obtained, then retighten the lockwheel. Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is respond unevenly to throttle inputs and
4 If the cables can’t be adjusted at the grip
end, you’ll have to adjust them at the other
(carburetor) end. To do so, remove the fuel
A extremely flammable, so take
extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
increase engine vibration levels. Carburetor
synchronization is the process of adjusting
the carburetors so they deliver the same
tank (see Chapter 4). system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames amount of air/fuel mixture to each cylinder.
5 Loosen the locknuts on both throttle cables or bare light bulbs near the work area, and The carbs are synchronized by measuring the

5.7a Be sure the linkage lever (upper arrow) contacts the idle 5.7b . . . and stops against the carburetor stopper (arrow) with the
screw (lower arrow) when the throttle is released . . . throttle open
i.io Every 3000 miles (5000 km)
vacuum produced in each cylinder, then
adjusting all four carbs to the same vacuum
reading. Four identical carburetors producing
the same intake vacuum will theoretically
deliver the same amount of fuel at a given
throttle setting.
2 To properly synchronize the carburetors,
you will need some sort of vacuum gauge
setup, preferably with a gauge for each
cylinder, or a mercury manometer, which is a
calibrated tube arrangement that utilizes
columns of mercury to indicate engine
vacuum.
3 A manometer can be purchased from a
6.9a Disconnect the hoses from these
m otorcycle dealer or accessory shop and
vacuum pipes (arrows) (carburetors
should have the necessary rubber hoses
removed for clarity). . .
supplied with it for hooking into the vacuum
hose fittings on the carburetors. hoses from the vacuum pipes on the top of gauge or manometer and attach the hoses to
4 A vacuum gauge setup can also be the intake boots (see illustration), then hook the fittings on the carburetors. Reinstall the
purchased from a dealer or fabricated from up the vacuum gauge set or the manometer fuel tank and seat.
commonly available hardware and automotive according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
vacuum gauges. Make sure there are no leaks in the setup, as Idle speed
5 The manometer is the more reliable and false readings will result (see illustration). 17 The idle speed should be checked and
accurate instrument, and for that reason is 10 Reconnect the fuel line to the fuel tank adjusted when it is obviously too high or too
preferred over the vacuum gauge setup; (it’s not necessary to hook-up the vacuum line low, but only after the carburetors are
however, since the mercury used in the to the fuel tap). synchronized. Before adjusting the idle speed,
manometer is a liquid, and extremely toxic, 11 Start the engine and make sure the idle make sure the valve clearances and spark
extra precautions must be taken during use speed is correct. plug gaps are correct. Also, turn the
and storage of the instrument. 12 The vacuum readings for all of the handlebars back-and-forth and see if moving
6 Because of the need for a carb cylinders should be the same, or at least the bars changes the idle speed. If it does, the
synchronization setup like one of the two within the tolerance listed in this Chapter’s throttle cable may not be adjusted correctly,
described above, most owners leave this task Specifications. If the vacuum readings vary, or it may be worn out. Be sure to correct this
to a dealer service department or a reputable adjust as necessary. problem before proceeding.
m otorcycle repair shop. But if you want to 13 To perform the adjustment, synchronize 18 The engine should be at normal operating
tackle this job, here's how it’s done: the carburetors for cylinders 1 and 2 by temperature, which is usually reached after 10
7 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches turning the butterfly valve adjusting screw to 15 minutes of stop-and-go riding. Place the
normal operating temperature, then check between those two carburetors, as needed, motorcycle on the centerstand and make sure
and, if necessary, adjust the idle speed (see until the vacuum is identical or nearly identical the transmission is in Neutral.
Section 6). Shut off the engine. for those two cylinders (see illustration). 19 Locate the idle adjusting screw on the left
8 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) and 14 Next, synchronize the carburetors for side of the bike, just above the engine and just
place it on a nearby bench or tool cart right cylinders 3 and 4, using the butterfly valve behind and below the left carburetor (see
next to the bike. The tank must be higher than adjusting screw situated between those two illustrations). Turn the screw until the idle
the carburetor float bowls. Or, have an carburetors (see illustration 6.13). speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications is
assistant hold the fuel tank out of the way, but 15 Finally, synchronize the carburetors for obtained.
in such a position that fuel can still be cylinders 1 and 2 to the carburetors for 20 Snap the throttle open and shut a few
delivered and access to the carburetors is cylinders 3 and 4 by turning the center times, then recheck the idle speed. If
unobstructed. Place the fuel tap lever in the adjusting screw (see illustration 6.13). necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.
Prime position. On E models, remove the air 16 When the adjustment is complete, 21 If a smooth, steady idle can’t be achieved,
filter housing (see Chapter 4). recheck the vacuum readings and idle speed, the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect. Refer to
9 Clearly label, then detach the vacuum then stop the engine. Remove the vacuum Chapter 4 for additional carburetor information

6.13 Turn screw (A) to synchronize cylinder 6.19a On D models, the idle speed screw 6.19b On E models, the idle speed screw
nos. 1 and 2; then screw (B) for nos. 3 and (arrow) is underneath the carburetors (arrow) is on the left side of the engine,
4; synchronize the two pairs of carburetors above and ahead of the countershaft
with screw (C) sprocket cover
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1.11

7 Evaporative emission control ^


system (California models ^
only) - check

1 This system, installed on California models


to conform to California emission control
standards, routes fuel vapors from the fuel
system into the engine to be burned, instead
of letting them evaporate into the atmosphere.
When the engine isn’t running, vapors are
stored in a carbon canister.
Hoses
2 To begin the inspection of the system,
remove the seat and side covers (see
Chapter 8 if necessary). Inspect the hoses
connecting the fuel tank, carburetors and
liquid/vapor separator to the canister for
cracking, kinks or other signs of deterioration
(see illustration).
Liquid/vapor separator
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is

A extremely flammable, so take


extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames
or bare light bulbs near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural
gas-type appliance (such as a water
heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is
present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic,
wear latex gloves when there’s a
possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if
you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
immediately with soap and water. Mop up
any spills immediately and do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
When you perform any kind of work on the 4 Disconnect the fuel return hose from the passenger’s seat and inspect it for cracks or
fuel system, wear safety glasses and have fuel tank and direct the end of the hose into other signs of damage. Tip the canister so the
a fire extinguisher suitable for a class B an approved gasoline container. Hold the nozzles point down. If fuel runs out of the
type fire (flammable liquids) on hand. container level with the top of the fuel tank. canister, the liquid/vapor separator is
3 To check the liquid/vapor separator, label 5 Start the engine and allow it to idle. If the probably bad - check it as described above.
and disconnect the hoses from it (see fuel that was squirted into the separator The fuel inside the canister has probably
illustration), then remove it from the machine. comes out of the hose, it’s working properly. If caused damage, so it would be a good idea to
Check it closely for cracks or other signs of fuel doesn’t come out of the hose, replace the replace it also.
damage. Reinstall the separator and connect separator.
the hoses, except for the breather hose. Using
a syringe, inject approximately 20 ml of Canister 8 Drive chain and sprockets -
gasoline into the separator. 6 Remove the canister from under the check for wear

Refer to Section 2.

9 Brake pad thickness - %


check ^

1 The brake pads should be checked at the


recommended intervals and replaced with
new ones when worn beyond the limit listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications.
2 To check the front brake pads, turn the
7.3 The liquid/vapor separator (arrow) is 9.2a To gain access to the brake pads, front wheel to each side and remove the pad
on the right side, below and in front of the remove these screws (arrows) and remove spring (see illustration). The brake pads are
IC igniter the pad spring visible from this angle and should have at
1.12 Every 3000 miles (5000 km)

9.2b The pads should have at least the specified minimum of 9.3 Check the rear brake pads by looking into the caliper from the
lining material left on the backing plate rear of the machine
least the specified minimum amount of lining and make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is Brake pedal position
material remaining on the metal backing plate correct (see ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the
8 Rear brake pedal position is largely a matteTi
(see illustration). Be sure to check the pads beginning of this Manual). Look for leaks at
of personal preference. Locate the pedal so
in both calipers. the hose connections and check for cracks in
that the rear brake can be engaged quickly
3 Check the rear brake pads by looking into the hoses. If the lever is spongy, bleed the
and easily without excessive foot movement
the caliper from the rear of the machine (see brakes as described in Chapter 7.
The recommended factory setting
illustration). Brake light switches approximately 55 mm (2-1/64 inches) below
4 If the pads are worn excessively, they must the top of the footpeg.
4 Make sure the brake light operates when
be replaced with new ones (see Chapter 7). 9 To adjust the position of the pedal, loosen
the brake lever is depressed.
5 Make sure the brake light is activated when the locknut on the clevis, then screw the
10 Brake system - the rear brake pedal is depressed pushrod with the hex head in or out of the
approximately 11 mm (7/16 inch). clevis to adjust the position of the brake pedal
general check
6 If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch (see illustration).
and turn the adjusting nut on the switch body 10 If necessary, adjust the brake light switch
(see illustration) until the brake light is (see Steps 5 and 6).
1 A routine general check of the brakes will
activated when required. The factory
ensure that any problems are discovered and recommends 10mm (0.39 inch) of pedal
remedied before the rider’s safety is freeplay. Moving the switch up activates the 11 Lubrication - general
jeopardized. brake lights sooner; lowering the switch
2 Check the brake lever and pedal for loose activates the lights later. If the brake lights
connections, excessive play, bends, and don’t come on when the brake pedal is
other damage. Replace any damaged parts depressed, check the switch (see Chapter 9). 1 Since the controls, cables and various other
with new ones (see Chapter 7). 7 The front brake light switch is not components of a motorcycle are exposed to the
3 Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. adjustable. If it fails to operate properly, elements, they should be lubricated periodically
Check the brake pads for wear (see Section 9) replace it with a new one (see Chapter 9). to ensure safe and trouble-free operation.

10.6 Hold the switch and turn the adjusting nut on the switch 10.9 To adjust the pedal, loosen the locknut on the clevis, then
body until the brake light is activated screw the pushrod in or out
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1-13

11.3a A pressure lube adapter makes 11.3b Make a funnel with a small piece of 12.2 Pull the choke lever until the starter
tubing a cable easier and neater (available plastic, tape it to the cable and carefully plunger lever at the carburetor (A)
at most bike shops) pour oil into the funnel contacts the plunger (B)

2 The footpegs, clutch and brake lever, brake other end. When attaching the cable to Adjustm ent
pedal, shift lever and side and centerstand the lever, be sure to lubricate the barrel­
3 Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster
pivots should be lubricated frequently. In shaped fitting at the end with multi-purpose
at the middle of the cable (see illustration)
order for the lubricant to be applied where it grease.
until the proper amount of freeplay is
will do the most good, the component should 4 Speedometer and tachom eter cables
obtained.
be disassembled. However, if chain and cable should be removed from their housings and
4 Tighten the locknut against the adjuster
lubricant is being used, it can be applied to lubricated with motor oil or cable lubricant in a
when you’re done.
the pivot joint gaps and will usually work its similar fashion.
way into the areas where friction occurs. If 5 The procedures for lubricating the
motor oil or light grease is being used, apply it swingarm bearings and rear shock absorber
sparingly as it may attract dirt (which could linkage are in Chapter 6. 13 Engine oil/filter - change
cause the controls to bind or wear at an
accelerated rate). Note: One o f the best
lubricants for the control lever pivots is a dry-
filmlubricant (available from many sources by
different names).
12 Choke cable -
% 1 Consistent routine oil and filter changes are
the single most im portant maintenance
3 The throttle, choke and clutch cables
should be separated from the handlebar lever
check and adjustment
I procedure you can perform on a motorcycle.
The oil not only lubricates the internal parts
and bracket before they’re lubricated. They of the engine, transm ission and clutch,
should be treated with m otor oil or a but it also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a
commercially available cable lubricant which Check sealant, and a protectant. Because of
is specially formulated for use on motorcycle 1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). these demands, the oil takes a terrific amount
control cables. Small adapters for pressure 2 To calculate the amount of choke cable of abuse and should be replaced often
lubricating the cables with spray can freeplay at the choke lever, pull the choke with new oil of the recommended grade and
lubricants are available and ensure that the lever until the starter plunger lever at the type.
cable is lubricated along its entire length (see carburetor contacts the starter plunger (see
illustration). If motor oil is being used, tape a illustration). The amount of choke lever travel HAYNES Saving a little money on the
funnel-shaped piece of heavy paper or plastic is equal to the amount of choke cable difference in cost between a
to the end of the cable, then pour oil into the freeplay. Compare your measurement to the good oil and a cheap oil
funnel and suspend the end of the cable choke cable freeplay listed in this Chapter’s won’t pay off if the engine is
upright (see illustration). Leave it until Specifications. If the freeplay is incorrect, damaged.
the oil runs down into the cable and out the adjust the choke cable.
2 Before changing the oil and filter, warm up
the engine so the oil will drain easily. Be
careful when draining the oil, as the exhaust
pipes, the engine, and the oil itself can cause
severe burns.
3 Put the motorcycle on the centerstand over
a clean drain pan.
4 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).
The oil cooler impedes removal of the oil filter.
Remove the oil cooler (see Chapter 3), leaving
the oil hoses connected to the engine.
5 Remove the oil filler cap to vent the
crankcase (and serve as a reminder that
there’s no oil in the engine!).
6 Remove the drain plug (see illustration)
12.3 Loosen the locknut and turn the 13.6 Remove the drain plug (arrow) from from the engine and allow the oil to drain into
adjuster at the until the correct freeplay is the engine and allow the oil to drain into a the pan. Discard the drain plug sealing
obtained pan washer.
1*14 Every 3000 miles (5000 km)

13.7a While the oil is draining, remove the oil filter (1) with an oil 13.7b Properly engaged, the filter and filter wrench look like this
filter wrench (2) (filter removed from bike for clarity)

7 While the oil is draining, remove the oil filter re-thread the hole and you may even have to (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, etc.) for
with an oil filter wrench (see illustrations). replace the pan. transport to one of these disposal sites.
8 Wipe any residual oil off the filter sealing 11 Install the oil cooler using new O-rings
surface on the crankcase. And be sure to (see Chapter 3)
Note: It is
wipe off any oil spilled on the exhaust 12 Refill the crankcase to the proper level with
headers. If the headers are oily when the antisocial and
the recommended oil and install the filler cap.
engine is started, this oil will smoke and may Start the engine and let it run for two or three illegal to dump oil
even burst into flame. minutes. Shut it off, wait a few minutes, then down the drain.
9 Coat the gasket on the new filter with clean check the oil level. If necessary, add more oil to To find the
engine oil. Install the filter and hand tighten it. bring the level up to the Maximum mark. Check location of your
The filter should be snug, but do not around the drain plug and filter housing for local oil recycling
overtighten it or you’ll have difficulty removing leaks. Install the lower fairing (see Chapter 8) o il i * ii k i i n i bank, call this
it next time. 13 The old oil drained from the engine cannot 0800 66 33 66 number free.
10 Check the condition of the drain plug be reused in its present state and should be
threads. Using a new sealing washer, install disposed of. Oil reclamation centers, auto In the USA, note that any oil supplier must
the drain plug and tighten it to the torque repair shops and gas stations will normally accept used oil for recycling
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Do not accept the oil, which can be refined and used
overtighten the drain plug! Overtightening the again (be sure to check with the repair shop or
plug can strip out the threads in the pan. If gas station first). After the oil has cooled, it 14 Air filter element -
this happens, you will at least have to can be drained into a suitable container servicina ^

HAYNES Check the old oil carefully. If the oil was drained into a clean pan, small
pieces of metal or other material can be easily detected. If the oil is very Note: Replace the air filter element every five
HilUT metallic colored, then the engine is experiencing wear from break-in (new cleanings (or more frequently, if the bike is
operated in dusty conditions).
engine) or from insufficient lubrication. If there are flakes or chips o f metal
in the oil, then something is drastically wrong internally and the engine will have to 1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8) and the
be disassembled for inspection and repair. If there are pieces of fiber-like material in fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
the oil, the clutch is experiencing excessive wear and should be checked. 2 Remove the upper half of the air cleaner
housing (see illustrations).

14.2a To remove the upper half of the air 14.2b To remove the upper half of the air 14.2c . . . and remove these bolts (arrows);
cleaner housing on D models, remove cleaner housing on E models, remove to ensure proper reassembly, clearly label
these screws (arrows) these bolts (arrow s). . . all hoses
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1.15

14.3a Removing the air filter on a 0 model 14.3b Removing the air filter on an E model

3 Remove the air filter element (see Check since clearance is limited by the instrument
illustrations). Wipe out the housing with a cluster and the frame.
2 To check the bearings, place the
clean rag. 8 Carefully tighten the steering stem locknut
motorcycle on the centerstand and block the
4 If the filter element is extremely dirty or torn, until the steering head is tight but does not
machine so the front wheel is in the air.
replace it. If it’s still in reasonable condition, bind when the forks are turned from side-to-
3 Point the wheel straight ahead and slowly
wash it in clean solvent, then dry it out with side (see illustration).
move the handlebars from side-to-side. Dents
compressed air. After cleaning the element, 9 Retighten the steering head nut and the
or roughness in the bearing races will be felt
saturate it with SE or SF class SAE30 oil, fork pinch bolts, in that order, to the torque
and the bars will not move smoothly.
squeeze out the excess oil, then wrap it in a values listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications.
4 Next, grasp the fork legs and try to move 10 Recheck the steering head bearings for
clean rag and squeeze it as dry as possible. the wheel forward and backward (see play as described above. If necessary, repeat
Make sure you don’t tear the filter. illustration). Any looseness in the steering
5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make head bearings will be felt. If play is felt in
sure the element is seated properly in the filter the bearings, adjust the steering head as
housing before installing the cover. Reinstall follows:
the fuel tank bracket, fuel tank and seat.
Adjustment
5 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
6 Remove the lower inner fairing (the small
15 Steering head bearings - access panel on the underside of the upper
check and adjustment fairing, above the front wheel, used for
accessing the brake junction pipe and the
horn) in order to reach the fork lower pinch
1 This vehicle is equipped with tapered-roller bolts (see Chapter 8).
type steering head bearings which can 7 Loosen the steering head nut and the fork
become dented, rough or loose during normal lower pinch bolts (see illustrations). Note:
useof the machine. In extreme cases, worn or While it isn't absolutely necessary to remove 15.4 Try to move the forks back-and-forth;
loose steering head bearings can cause the upper triple clamp, doing so will make it if you feel any play, adjust the steering
steering wobble that is potentially dangerous. easier to turn the special spanner wrench head bearings

15.7a Loosen the steering head nut . . . 15.7b . . . and loosen the fork lower pinch 15.8 Tightening the steering stem locknut
bolts (fairing removed for clarity) with the Kawasaki tool (upper triple clamp
removed for clarity)
1.16 Every 3000 miles (5000 km)
the adjustment procedure. Reinstall all parts infrequent use of the motorcycle prevents!
previously removed. normal charging from taking place.
11 Refer to Chapter 6 for steering head 8 Be sure to correct any problems and,
bearing lubrication and replacement charge the battery if necessary. Refer to
procedures. Chapter 9 for additional battery maintenance
and charging procedures.
9 Install the battery cell caps, tightening them
securely. Reconnect the cables to the battery,
16 Tires/wheels - general check attaching the positive cable first and the
negative cable last. Make sure to install the
insulating boot over the positive terminal.
Install the fuel tank mount and the seat. Be
very careful not to pinch or otherwise restrict
Tires the battery vent tube (if equipped), as the
1 Check the tires for damage, tread depth 17.5 On D models, check the battery’s battery may build up enough internal pressure
and correct pressure as described in the Dail specific gravity with a hydrometer during normal charging system operation to
(pre-ride) checks. 4 Next, check the specific gravity of the explode.
Wheels electrolyte in each cell with a small
hydrometer made especially for motorcycle Battery terminal corrosion
2 The cast wheels used on this machine are HAYNES
batteries (if the electrolyte level is known to be can be minimised by
virtually maintenance free, but they should be
kept clean and checked periodically for
sufficient it won’t be necessary to remove the HilUT applying a layer of
battery). These are available from most dealer petroleum jelly to the
cracks and other damage. Never attempt to parts departments or motorcycle accessory terminals after the leads have been
repair damaged cast wheels; they must be stores. connected.
replaced with new ones. 5 Remove the caps, draw some electrolyte
3 Check the valve stem locknuts to make from the first cell into the hydrometer (see
sure they are tight. Also, make sure the valve illustration) and note the specific gravity.
stem cap is in place and tight. If it is missing, Battery charging condition
Compare the reading to the Specifications
install a new one made of metal or hard (E models)
listed in this Chapter. Note: Add 0.004 points
plastic. to the reading for every 10-degrees F above Note: E models use a maintenance-free
68-degrees F - subtract 0.004 points from the battery. Do not attempt to remove the caps to
reading for every 10-degrees below 68- check the specific gravity or to add electrolyte
degrees F. Return the electrolyte to the or water.
17 Battery condition - check 10 Remove the seat and remove the small
appropriate cell and repeat the check for the
remaining cells. When the check is complete, black plastic package tray (see illustration).
rinse the hydrometer thoroughly with clean 11 Using a digital voltmeter, measure the
water. battery voltage as shown (see illustration). It
Warning: Be extremely careful should be at least 12.6 volts. If it isn’t, try

A when handling or working


around the battery. The
electrolyte is very caustic and
6 I f ,the specific gravity of the electrolyte in
each cell is as specified, the battery is in good
condition and is apparently being charged by
the machine’s charging system.
charging the battery (see Chapter 9). If the
battery can’t be charged to the specified
voltage, replace it.
an explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off 7 If the specific gravity is low, the battery is 12 To replace the battery, remove the bolts
when the battery is charging. not fully charged. This may be due to securing the battery cables to the battery
corroded battery terminals, a dirty battery terminals (remove the negative cable first,
Battery electrolyte level/specific
case, a malfunctioning charging system, or positive cable last) (see illustration). Pull the
gravity - D models
loose or corroded wiring connections. On the battery straight up to remove it. Don’t worry^
1 Remove the seat, then remove the air about disconnecting the vent hose - there
other hand, it may be that the battery is worn
cleaner intake duct (see Chapter 4). isn’t one. Maintenance-free batteries don't
out, especially if the machine is old, or that
2 Remove the bolts securing the battery use a vent hose.
cables to the battery terminals (remove the 13 Installation is the reverse of removal.
negative cable first, positive cable last) (see
illustration 17.12). Pull the battery straight up
to remove it. The electrolyte level will now be
visible through the opaque battery case - it
should be between the Upper and Lower level
marks.
3 If it is low, remove the cell caps and fill each
cell to the upper level mark with distilled
water. Do not use tap water (except in an
emergency), and do not overfill. If the level is
within the marks on the case, additional water
is not necessary.

HAYNES The battery cell holes are 17.10 To remove the package tray on E
quite small, so it may help to models, remove these four bolts (arrows)
HilUT use a plastic squeeze bottle
Don’t lose the metal piece that’s attached by 17.11 Use a digital voltmeter to measure
with a small spout to add
the two front bolts - it secures the front end of battery voltage; it should be at least 12.6
the water.
the seat volts
Every 3000 miles (5000 km) 1-17

Gearshift lever
Footpegs and sidestand
Engine mount bolts
Shock absorber mount bolts
Rear suspension linkage bolts
Front axle and clamp bolt
Rear axle nut
3 If a torque wrench is available, use it along
with the Torque specifications at the
beginning of this, or other, Chapters.

Exhaust system
4 Periodically check all of the exhaust system
17.12 Remove the cables from the 18.5 The exhaust pipe flange nuts (arrow) joints for leaks and loose fasteners. The lower
terminals (remove the negative cable first) should be checked frequently and fairing will have to be removed to do this
and pull the battery straight up tightened if necessary properly (see Chapter 8). If tightening the
clamp bolts fails to stop any leaks, replace the
18 Fasteners - check % loosen fasteners, all nuts, bolts, screws, etc. gaskets with new ones (a procedure which

|| should be periodically checked for proper


tightness.
2 Pay particular attention to the following:
requires disassembly of the system).
5 The exhaust pipe flange nuts at the cylinder
heads (see illustration) are especially prone
Spark plugs to loosening, which could cause damage to
Fasteners Engine oil drain plug the head. Check them frequently and keep
1 Since vibration of the machine tends to Oil filter cover bolt them tight.

Every 6000 miles (10,000 km)


5 Check the vacuum hose connected to the 10 Install the O-ring, filter and fuel tap on the
19 Fuel system -
check and filter cleaning
% fuel tap. If it is cracked or otherwise damaged,
replace it with a new one.
tank, then install the tank. Refill the tank and
check carefully for leaks around the mounting
6 The fuel filter, which is attached to the fuel flange and screws.
tap, may become clogged and should be
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is removed and cleaned periodically. In order to
f|\ extremely flammable, so take clean the filter, the fuel tank must be drained 20 Suspension - check
%
extra precautions when you work
on any part of the fuel system.
and the fuel tap removed.
Fuel filter
I
Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don’t 7 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Drain 1 The suspension components must be
work in a garage where a natural gas-type the fuel into an approved fuel container. maintained in top operating condition to
appliance (such as a water heater or clothes 8 Once the tank is emptied, loosen and ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged
dryer) with a pilot light is present. Since remove the screws that attach the fuel tap to suspension parts decrease the vehicle’s
gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves the tank. Remove the tap and filter. stability and control.
when there’s a possibility of being exposed 9 Clean the filter with solvent and blow it dry
tofuel, and, if you spill any fuel on your skin, with compressed air. If the filter is torn or Front suspension
rinseit off immediately with soap and water. otherwise damaged, replace the entire fuel 2 While standing alongside the motorcycle,
Mop up any spills immediately and do not tap with a new one. Check the mounting lock the front brake and push on the
store fuel-soaked rags where they could flange O-ring and the gaskets on the screws. handlebars to compress the forks several
ignite. When you perform any kind of work If they are damaged, replace them with new times. See if they move up-and-down
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and ones. smoothly without binding. If binding is felt, the
have a fire extinguisher suitable for a class forks should be disassembled and inspected
Btype fire (flammable liquids) on hand. as described in Chapter 6.
3 Carefully inspect the area around the fork
Fuel lines seals for any signs of fork oil leakage (see
1 Check the fuel tank, the fuel tap, the lines illustration). If leakage is evident, the seals
and the carburetors for leaks and evidence of must be replaced as described in Chapter 6.
damage. 4 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts
2 If carburetor gaskets are leaking, the and bolts to be sure none have worked loose.
carburetors should be disassembled and 5 Inspect the shock for fluid leakage and
rebuilt by referring to Chapter 4. tightness of the mounting nuts. If leakage is
3 If the fuel tap is leaking, tightening the found, the shock should be replaced.
screws may help. If leakage persists, the tap
should be disassembled and repaired or Rear suspension
replaced with a new one. 6 Set the bike on its centerstand. Grab the
4 If the fuel lines are cracked or otherwise 20.3 Inspect each fork seal for leaks at the swingarm on each side, just ahead of the axle.
deteriorated, replace them with new ones. indicated areas (arrows) Rock the swingarm from side to side - there
1.18 Every 6000 miles (10,000 km)

ft

21.2 Using a compression gauge with a 22.6a To position no. 1 piston at Top Dead
threaded fitting for the spark plug hole Center, turn the crankshaft until the TDC
mark on the rotor (“T,1 4”) is aligned with
the timing mark on the crankcase

should be no discernible movement at the


rear. If there’s a little movement or a slight 22 Valve clearances - ^ 22.6b Note the position of the no. 1
clicking can be heard, make sure the pivot check and adjustment cylinder camshaft lobes; they should not
shaft nuts are tight. If the pivot nuts are tight be depressing the lifters for either valve
S
but movement is still noticeable, the swingarm 1 Cam lobe 3 Valve adjusting shim
will have to be removed and the bearings 1 The engine must be completely cool for this 2 Valve lifter
replaced as described in Chapter 6. maintenance procedure, so let the machine sit
7 Inspect the tightness of the rear suspension overnight before beginning. 7 With the engine in this position, all of the
nuts and bolts. 2 Disconnect the cable from the negative valves for cylinder no. 1 can be checked, as
terminal of the battery. well as the exhaust valves for cylinder no. 2
3 Refer to Chapter 4 and remove the fuel and the intake valves for cylinder no. 3 (sea
21 Cylinder compression - % illustration).
tank.
check ^ 4 Remove the valve cover (see Chapter 2). 8 Start with the no. 1 intake valve clearance.
5 Remove the pick-up coil cover (see Insert a feeler gauge of the thickness listed in
Chapter 5). this Chapter’s Specifications between tha
1 Among other things, poor engine Caution: Don’t try to turn the engine with valve lifter and cam lobe (see illustration).
performance may be caused by leaking the timing rotor Allen bolt or the bolt may Pull the feeler gauge out slowly - you should
valves, incorrect valve clearances, a leaking snap off. feel a slight drag. If there’s no drag, tha
head gasket, or worn pistons, rings and/or 6 Position the number 1 piston (on the left clearance is too loose. If there’s a heavy drag,
cylinder walls. A cylinder compression check side of the engine) at Top Dead Center (TDC) the clearance is too tight.
will help pinpoint these conditions and can on the compression stroke. Do this by turning 9 If the clearance is incorrect, write down the
also indicate the presence of excessive the crankshaft, with a wrench placed on the actual measured clearance. You’ll need this
carbon deposits in the cylinder heads. timing rotor hex, until the TDC mark on the information later to select a new valve
2 The only tools required are a compression rotor (“T,1 4”) is aligned with the timing mark adjusting shim.
gauge and a spark plug wrench (see on the crankcase (see illustration). Now, 10 Now measure the no. 1 exhaust valves,
illustration). Depending on the outcome of check the position of the no. 1 cylinder following the same procedure you used for
the initial test, a squirt-type oil can may also camshaft lobes; they should not be the intake valves. Make sure to use a feeler
be needed. depressing the valve lifters for either the gauge of the specified thickness and write
3 Make sure the valve clearances are correct intake valves or the exhaust valves (see down the actual clearances of any valves that
(see Section 22). illustration). If they are, turn the crankshaft aren’t within the Specifications. 1
4 Refer to Fault Finding Equipment in the one complete revolution and realign the timing 11 Proceed to measure the clearances of the
Reference section for details of the rotor mark. Piston number 1 is now at TDC no. 2 exhaust valves and the no. 3 intake
compression test. compression. valves. Again, write down the measured

22.8 Insert a feeler gauge between the


valve lifter and cam lobe
Every 6000 miles (1 0 ,0 0 0 km) 1.19
clearances of any valves that aren’t within the
Specifications.
12 Rotate the crankshaft one complete
revolution and align the TDC mark on the rotor
(T 1,4) with the timing mark on the crankcase,
which will position piston no. 4 at TDC
compression. Measure all four valves on
cylinder no. 4, followed by the no. 3 exhaust
valves and the no. 2 intake valves (see
illustration). Again, write down the measured
clearances of any valves that aren’t within the
Specifications.
13 If any of the clearances need to be
adjusted, go to Step 14. If all of the clearances
22.12 With cylinder no. 4 at TDC compression, the shaded valves can be adjusted
are within the Specifications, go to Step 20.
14 Remove the camshafts (see Chapter 2).
Remove the valve lifters and adjusting shims 16 If the clearance was too large, you need a and down to where the row and column meet;
from any valves that needed adjustment. Be thicker shim. If the clearance was too small, the shim listed at that point is the one you
sure to keep the lifters and shims in order so you need a thinner shim. Calculate the need. For example:
they can be returned to the locations from thickness of the replacement shim by referring a) If the actual measured clearance was 0.35
which they were removed. to the accompanying charts (see illustrations). mm, find the 0.33 to 0.37 mm entry on
15 Determine the thickness of the shim(s) 17 To use the charts, find the actual the left-hand side o f the chart.
you removed. It should be marked on the measured clearance of the valve in the left- b) If the existing shim thickness is 3.15 mm,
bottom of the shim, but the ideal way is to hand column, and the thickness of the find the 3.15 entry in the top row o f the
measure it with a micrometer. existing shim in the top row. Follow across chart.

PRESENT S H IM Example
PART No. (92180 -) 1014 1016 1018 1020 1022 1024 1026 1028 1030 1032 1034 1036 1038 1040 1042 1044 1046 1048 1050 1052 1054
MARK 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 00 05 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50
THICKNESS (m m ) 2.50 2.55 2 60 2.65 2.70 2.75 2.80 2.85 2.90 2.95 3.00 3 05 3.10 3.15 3.20 3.25 3 30 3 35 3.40 3.45 3.50

2.65 2^70
2.70 2.75 3.00

2.80 3.20 3 40
SPECIFIED C LE A R A N C E /N O CHANGE REQUIRED
2.70 2.80 2.85 2.90 2.95 3.00 3.05 3.10 3.15 3.20 3.25
2.70 2.95 3.30
3.00 3.30 3.40
2.70 2.80 2.90

2.80 2 90 3.10 3.35 3.40

3.00
3.30

3.40

0.87 3.25 3.50 IN S TA LL THE SHIM OF TH IS THICKNESS (mm)

3.40

3.30
3.35
1.08 ~ 1.12 3.40
113 ~ 1.17

22.16a Intake valve shim selection chart


1.20 Every 6000 miles (10,000 km)
PRESENT SH IM ^-E xam ple
PART No. (92180 -) 1014 1016 1018 1020 1022 1024 1026 1028 1030 1032 1034 1036 1038 1040 1042 1044 1046 1048 1050 1052 1054
M AR K 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 00 05 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50
THICKNESS (m m ) 2.50 2.55 2.60 2.65 2.70 2.75 2.80 2.85 2.90 2.95 3.00 3.05 3.10 3.15 3.20 3.25 3.30 3.35 3.40 3.45 3.50

0.00 ~ 0.04
0.05 0.09
0.10 ~ 0.14
0.15 ~ 0.19
0.20 ~ 0.21
®
a. 0 22 ~ 0.31 SPECIFIED CLEARANCE/NO CHANGE REQUIRED
E
CO
X 0.32 0.34
Hi
0.35 ~ 0.39
I 0.40 0.44
0.45 ~ 0.49
0.50 ~ 0.54
0.55 0.59
0.60 ~ 0.64
0 65 0.69
0.70 ~ 0.74
0.75 0.79
0 80 ~ 0.84
0.85 0.89
0.90 ~ 0.94 INSTALL THE S H IM OF THIS THICKNESS (m m )
0.95 ~ 0.99
1.00 1.04
1.05 ~ 1.09
1.10 ~ 1.14
1.15 ~ 1.19
1.20 ~ 1.24
1.25 ~ 1.29

22.16b Exhaust valve shim selection chart

c) Follow the lines across and down from and recheck the clearances (see Chapter
HAYNES It is worthwhile noting down
these two entries until they meet. The and Steps 6 through 12 above).
all the valve shim
number listed in that space (3.30 mm) is 20 With all of the clearances within th
thicknesses to save time
the needed shim thickness. Specifications, install the valve cover and
and expense when the valve
18 Perform Steps 15 through 17 to select a of the components that had to be removed to
clearances are next adjusted; provided
new shim for each of the valves that needed get it off.
they are not worn or damaged, the
adjustment. 21 Install the fuel tank and reconnect thi
shims can be moved to other locations.
19 Install the shims, lifters and camshafts cable to the negative terminal of the battery,

Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km)


beginning o f this Manual and check the yet pliable, and return to their original shape
23 Cooling system - servicing coolant level before performing this check. when released. If they are dried out or hard
$ 1 The entire cooling system should be
checked carefully at the recommended
replace them with new ones.
3 Check for evidence of leaks at each cooling
intervals. Look for evidence of leaks, check system joint. Tighten the hose clamp
the condition of the coolant, check the carefully to prevent future leaks.
Check radiator for clogged fins and damage and 4 Check the radiator for evidence of leaks
make sure the fan operates when required. and other damage. Remove the fairings if

A
Warning: The engine must be
|\ cool before beginning this 2 Examine each of the rubber coolant hoses necessary (see Chapter 8). Leaks in the
procedure. along its entire length. Look for cracks, radiator leave tell-tale scale deposits
abrasions and other damage. Squeeze each coolant stains on the outside of the core
Note: Refer to ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the hose at various points. They should feel firm, below the leak. If leaks are noted, remove the
Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km) 1.21

23.6 Turn the cap slowly to the first stop and allow all pressure to 23.7 An antifreeze hydrometer is helpful for determining the
escape before removing it condition of the coolant
The arrow points to the thermostat housing bleeder bolt

radiator (refer to Chapter 3) and have it 9 If the coolant level is consistently low, and illustration 24.6). Place a large, clean drain
repaired at a radiator shop or replace it with a no evidence of leaks can be found, have the pan under the left side of the engine.
new one. entire system pressure checked by a 11 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).
Caution: Do not use a liquid leak stopping Kawasaki dealer service department, 12 Remove the drain bolt from the water
compound to try to repair leaks. motorcycle repair shop or service station. pump outlet pipe (the one closer to the
5 Check the radiator fins for mud, dirt and engine) and allow the coolant to drain into the
insects, which may impede the flow of air Draining pan (see illustration). Note: The coolant will
through the radiator. If the fins are dirty, force Warning: Allow the engine to rush out with considerable force, so position
water or low pressure compressed air through
the fins from the backside. If the fins are bent
or distorted, straighten them carefully with a
A cool completely before
performing this maintenance
operation. Also, don’t allow
the drain pan accordingly. Remove the
radiator cap completely to ensure that all o f
the coolant can drain.
screwdriver. antifreeze to come into contact with your 13 Remove the reservoir (see Chapter 3) and
6 Remove the trim panel between the tank skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. drain it. Wash out the reservoir with water.
and the right fairing (see Chapter 8), then Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of
remove the radiator cap by turning it water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Flushing
counterclockwise until it reaches a stop. If you Never leave antifreeze lying around in an 14 Flush the system with clean tap water by
hear a hissing sound (indicating there is still open container or in puddles on the floor; inserting a garden hose in the radiator filler
pressure in the system), wait until it stops. children and pets are attracted by its neck. Allow the water to run through the
Now, press down on the cap and continue sweet smell and may drink it. Check with system until it is clear when it exits the drain
turning the cap counterclockwise until it can local authorities about disposing of used bolt hole. If the radiator is extremely corroded,
be removed (see illustration). Check the antifreeze. Many communities have remove it by referring to Chapter 3 and have it
condition of the coolant in the radiator. If it is collection centers which will see that cleaned at a radiator shop.
rust colored or if accumulations of scale are antifreeze is disposed of safely. Antifreeze 15 Check the drain bolt gasket. Replace it
visible in the radiator, drain, flush and refill the is also combustible, so don’t store or use it with a new one if necessary.
system with new coolant. Check the cap near open flames. 16 Clean the hole, then install the drain bolt
gaskets for cracks and other damage. Have 10 Remove the plastic trim panel between and tighten it to the torque listed in this
the cap tested by a dealer service department the right side of the fairing and the fuel tank Chapter’s Specifications.
or replace it with a new one. Install the cap by (see Chapter 8). Loosen the radiator cap (see 17 Fill the cooling system with clean water
turning it clockwise until it reaches the first mixed with a flushing compound. Make sure
stop, then push down on the cap and the flushing 1compound is com patible with
continue turning until it can turn no further. aluminum components, and follow the
7 Check the antifreeze content of the coolant manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
with an antifreeze hydrom eter (see 18 Start the engine and allow it to reach
illustration). Sometimes coolant may look like normal operating temperature. Let it run for
it's in good condition, but might be too weak about ten minutes.
to offer adequate protection. If the 19 Stop the engine. Let the machine cool for
hydrometer indicates a weak mixture, drain, awhile, then cover the radiator cap with a
flush and refill the cooling system. heavy rag and turn it counterclockwise to the
8 Start the engine and let it reach normal first stop, releasing any pressure that may be
operating temperature, then check for leaks present in the system. Once the hissing stops,
again. As the coolant temperature increases, push down on the cap and remove it
the fan should come on automatically and the completely.
temperature should begin to drop. If it does 23.12 Remove the bolt from the water 20 Drain the system once again.
not, refer to Chapter 3 and check the fan and pump outlet pipe (hose disconnected from 21 Fill the system with clean water, then
fan circuit carefully. inlet pipe for clarity) repeat Steps 9,10 and 11.
1.22 Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km)

25.16a Push the top plug into the fork tube


25.2 Remove this drain screw (arrow) to and remove the wire retaining ring, then 25.16b Inspect the top plug O-ring - if it's
drain each fork leg (D models) remove the plug damaged, discard it and get a new one

Refilling 8 Depress the top plug with a large punch o


25 Fork oil - replacement Phillips screwdriver and remove the wire
22 Fill the system with the proper coolant
mixture (see this Chapter’s Specifications). I retaining ring (see illustration 25.24a
When the system is full (all the way up to the I Inspect the top plug O-ring - if it’s damaged,
replace it. Pull out the spacer, spring seat
top of the radiator cap filler neck), loosen the
(large washer) and fork spring (see
bleeder bolts on the water pump (see Draining and adding oil
illustrations 25.24b through 25.24e).
illustration 9.5 in Chapter 3) and the D models 9 Pour the type and amount of fork oil listed
therm ostat housing (see illustration 24.6). 1 Place the motorcycle on the centerstand. in this Chapter’s Specifications into the fork
When coolant free of air bubbles flows from 2 Place a drain pan under one fork leg and tube through the opening at the top.
the bleeders, tighten them securely. Start the remove the drain screw (see illustration). 10 Install the fork spring with the smaller
engine (radiator cap removed) and allow it Warning: Do not allow the fork (tapered) end facing down into the fork tube.
to run until no air bubbles remain in the
coolant.
23 Add coolant until it reaches the top of the
A oil to contact the brake
pads. If it does, clean the discs
with brake system cleaner and
discs orthe spring seat and spacer.
Install
11 Install the top plug (don’t forget the O'
ring!), depress it with a large punch or Phillips
filler neck. Reinstall the cap. replace the pads with new ones before screwdriver, and install the wire retaining ring,
24 Check the coolant level in the reservoir riding the motorcycle. Make sure the ring is properly seated in its
(see ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning 3 After most of the oil has drained, slowly groove in the tube before releasing the plug.
of this Manual). If the coolant level is low, add compress and release the forks to pump out 12 Install the handlebar (see Chapter 6).
the specified mixture until it reaches the FULL the remaining oil. An assistant will most likely 13 Repeat this procedure for the other fork leg.
mark in the reservoir. be required to do this procedure.
E models
25 Check the system for leaks. 4 Check the drain screw gasket for damage.
26 Do not dispose of the old coolant by Replace it if necessary. Apply sealant to the 14 Remove the fork legs (see Chapter 6).
pouring it down a drain. Instead, pour it into a threads of the drain screw, install the screw 15 Place one fork leg in a bench vise.
heavy plastic container, cap it tightly and take and gasket and tighten it securely. 16 On E1 and E2 models, depress the top
it to an authorized disposal site or a service 5 Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the other fork leg. plug with a large punch or Phillips screwdriver
station. 6 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8) and remove the wire retaining ring (see
and place a floor jack underneath the engine. illustration). On E3-on models, unscrew the
Put a block of wood between the jack head fork top bolt and carefully withdraw the long
and the engine to protect the engine cases. damping adjustment rod from the fork. On all
24 Spark plugs - replacement (The purpose of this step is to take the weight models, remove the top plug and inspect thi
of the bike off the front wheel so that the forks plug O-ring - if it’s damaged, replace it (see
are fully extended when adding new oil.) illustration). Pull out the spacer, spring seat’
7 Remove the handlebar from one side (see (large washer) and fork spring (see
Refer to Section 3. Chapter 6). illustrations).

25.16e Pull out the spring; the slight taper


25.16c Pull out the spacer . . . 25.16d . . . and remove the spring seat (a at the lower end of the spring must face
magnet may be required to do this) down when installed
Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km) 1.23

25.24a Depress the plug with a large punch 25.24b . . . and remove the plug 25.24c Pull out the spacer . . .
or Phillips screwdriver, remove the wire
retaining ring . . .

... and remove the spring seat (the 25.24e Remove the fork spring and 25.26 Raise the wheel to compress the
large washer) with a magnet remember which end faces down forks and measure the distance from the
(the slightly tapered end) tube top to the oil

17 Pour out the old fork oil into a suitable damping adjustment rod into the fork and remove the wire retaining ring (see illustration).
container, then firmly grasp the fork tube and screw the top bolt securely into the fork tube. On E3-on models, unscrew the fork top bolt
pump the fork slider up and down several 21 Repeat this procedure for the other fork leg. and carefully withdraw the long damping
limesto make sure all the old oil is expelled. 22 Install the fork legs (see Chapter 6). adjustment rod from the fork. Pull out the
18 Pour the type and amount of fork oil listed spacer, spring seat (large washer) and fork
inthis Chapter’s Specifications into the fork Calculating the am ount o f fork spring (see illustrations).
tubethrough the opening at the top. oil without draining the forks 25 Place a small jack under the front wheel,
19 Install the fork spring with the smaller Note: If one fork seal has been leaking, or if then slowly pump it up until the front fork
(tapered) end facing down into the fork tube. the oil in one fork leg is simply lower or higher sliders (the lower part of the forks) are fully
Install the spring seat and spacer. than the other leg for some reason, you can compressed.
20 Install the top plug (don’t forget the use the follow ing m ethod to calculate the 26 Insert a tape measure into the fork tube
ifMing!). On E1 and E2 models, depress the correct amount o f oil in each leg w ithout and measure the distance from the top of the
top plug with a large punch or Phillips draining the old oil. tube to the oil (see illustration). Compare
screwdriver, and install the wire retaining ring, 23 Remove the handlebar from one side (see your measurement to the distance listed in
■ike sure the ring is properly seated in its Chapter 6). this Chapter’s Specifications, then add or
groove in the tube before releasing the plug. 24 On E1 and E2 models, depress the top plug subtract oil as necessary. If you’re removing
On E3-on models, carefully install the with a large punch or Phillips screwdriver and oil, use a small syringe.

Once a year
a carburetor de-icing system (see illustration 3 Drain the coolant (see Section 24).
26 Coolant filter (UK E models o' overleaf) that uses engine coolant to 4 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
1 only) - description and ^ prevent icing around the mouths of the 5 Remove the filter (see illustration 26.1).
I maintenance ^ carburetors. 6 Blow off any dirt and sediment on the filter
with compressed air.
M aintenance
Description 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
2 Every year, prior to the winter riding season,
ME models sold in the UK are equipped with clean the coolant filter.
1.24 Additional maintenance

Clamp
Cooling hose
Coolant filter
Thick side
Check valve
Chain cover
Water pum p cover
Main harness
Clamp
Clamp

Viewed A

Coolant Flow

26.1 Schematic for the de-icing system (E models in UK only)

Every two years


27 Brake fluid - renewal ^ O id brake flu id is in va riab ly 28 Brake master cylinder and
m uch d a rke r in co lo u r than caliper seals - replacement ^
ne w fluid, m aking it e asier to
see when o ld flu id has been ‘ !ri\kS'\ W w fc *
expelled from the system. 1 Brake system dust seals will deteriote witft
1 Brake system hydraulic fluid will deteriote
with age and must be replaced. age and must be replaced with new ones. I
2 Refer to Chapter 7, Section 8. 2 Refer to Chapter 7, Sections 2, 5 and 6, ad
appropriate.
Additional maintenance 1«25

29 Steering head bearings - ||> 30 Wheel bearings - 31 Speedometer gear -


lubrication lubrication lubrication ^
1

1 Periodic cleaning and repacking of the 1 Periodic cleaning and repacking of the 1 Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the front
steering head bearings is recommended by wheel bearings is recommended by the wheel. Disengage the speedometer drive unit
the manufacturer. Refer to Chapter 6 for manufacturer. Refer to Chapter 7 for wheel from the wheel and grease its drive gear.
steering head bearing lubrication and bearing lubrication and replacement
replacement procedures. procedures.

Every four years


32 Fuel hoses - replacement

1 Fuel system hoses will deteriote with age 1 Brake system hoses will deteriote with age
and must be replaced with new ones. and must be replaced with new ones.
2 Refer to Chapter 4. 2 Refer to Chapter 7, Section 7.
Chapter 2
Engine, clutch and transmission
Contents
Camshaft chain and guides - removal, inspection Initial start-up after overhaul..............................................................31
and installation ...............................................................................27 Main and connecting rod bearings - general note ...........................24
Camshaft chain tensioner - removal and installation ....................... 8 Major engine repair - general note .................................................... 4
Camshafts and lifters - removal, inspection and installation .......... 9 Oil cooler - removal and installation............................... See Chapter 3
Clutch cable - replacement................................................................ 19 Oil pan - removal and installation......................................................16

[
Clutch - removal, inspection and installation ................................... 20
Connecting rods and bearings - removal, inspection
Oil pressure relief valves - removal, inspection and installation . . . . 18
Oil pump - pressure check, removal,
inspection and installation.............................................................. 17
and installation ...............................................................................26 Operations possible with the engine in the fram e ............................. 2
Crankcase components - inspection and servicing .........................23 Operations requiring engine removal ................................................ 3
Crankcase - disassembly and reassem bly....................................... 22 Piston rings - installation.................................................................... 15
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, inspection Pistons - removal, inspection and installation ................................. 14
and installation ...............................................................................25 Recommended break-in procedure ..................................................32
Cylinder block - removal, inspection and installation.......................13 Shift drum and forks - removal, inspection and installation............ 29
Cylinder compression check ......................................... See Chapter 1 Shift shaft/external shift mechanism - removal,
Cylinder head and valves - disassembly, inspection inspection and installation.............................................................. 21
and reassembly...............................................................................12 Spark plug replacem ent..................................................See Chapter 1
Cylinder head - removal and installation........................................... 10 Transmission shafts - disassembly, inspection and reassembly . . . 30
Engine disassembly and reassembly - general inform a tion ............ 6 Transmission shafts - removal and installation................................. 28
Engine oil/filter change....................................................See Chapter 1 Valve cover - removal and installation ............................................. 7
Engine - removal and installation ...................................................... 5 Valves/valve seats/valve guides - servicing ..................................... 11
Fluid levels - check..................................... See Daily (pre-ride) checks Water pump - check, removal and installation.............. See Chapter 3
General information............................................................................ 1

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Jk Fairly difficult, Jk Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult, SS,
novicewith little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY
experience ^ some experience ^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional

Specifications
General
Bore....................................................................................................... 64.0 mm (2.522 inches)
Stroke...................................................................................................... 46.6 mm (1.836 inches)
Displacement........................................................................................... 599 cc
Compression ratio
Dmodels.............................................................................................. .... 11.5 : 1
Emodels.............................................................................................. 12.0:1
Cylinder numbering ..................................................................................... 1-2-3-4 (from left end of engine)
Firing order.............................................................................................. .... 1-2-4-3
2*2 Engine, clutch and transmission

Camshafts
Lobe height (D models)
Intake
Standard........................................................... 34.93 to 35.07 mm (1.376 to 1.382 inches)
M inimum........................................................... 34.83 mm (1.372 inches)
Exhaust
Standard........ ........... ..................... ................ 34.43 to 34.57 mm (1.357 to 1.362 inches)
M inim um ........................................... ............... 34.33 mm (1.353 inches)
Lobe height (E models)
Intake
Standard........................................................... 34.946 to 35.054 mm (1.377 to 1.381 inches)
Minimum........................................................... 34.846 mm (1.349 inches)
Exhaust
Standard........................................................... 34.346 to 34.454 mm (1.353 to 1.357 inches)
M inimum........................................................... 34.246 mm (1.349 inches)
Bearing oil clearance
Standard............................................................. . 0.028 to 0.071 mm (0.0011 to 0.0028 inch)
Maximum ............................................. ............. . 0.16 mm (0.0063 inch)
Journal diameter
Standard............................................................... 23.950 to 23.972 mm (0.9436 to 0.9445 inch)
Minimum........ .. ............................................... 23.92 mm (0.9425 inch)
Bearing journal inside diameter
Standard............................................................. . 24.000 to 24.021 mm (0.9449 to 0.9457 inch)
Maximum ........................................................... . 24.08 mm (0.9480 inch)
Camshaft runout
Standard............................................................. . 0.02 mm (0.0008 inch) or less
Maximum ............................................................. 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch)
Cam chain 20-link length
Standard.......................................................... .. 127.0 to 127.4 mm (5.0 to 5.0157 inches)
Maximum ................................................... ......... 128.9 mm (5.0748 inches)

Cylinder head, valves and valve springs


Cylinder head warpage limit .................. . 0.05 mm (0.0020 inch)
Valve clearances..................................................... See Chapter 1
Valve stem runout
Standard............................................................. 0.01 mm (0.0004 inch) or less
Maximum ............................................. ............. 0.05 mm (0.0020 inch
Valve stem diameter
D models
Intake valve
Standard..................................................... 4.475 to 4.490 mm (0.1763 to 0.1769 inch)
M inim um .............. ..: ................................... 4.46 mm (0.1757 inch)
Exhaust valve
Standard..................................................... 4.455 to 4.470 mm (0.1755 to 0.1761 inch)
M inim um ..................................................... 4.44 mm (0.1749 inch)
E models
Intake valve
Standard___, ............................................ 3.975 to 3.990 mm (0.1566 to 0.1572 inch)
M inimum ........................ .............. ............. 3.945 mm (0.1554 inch)
Exhaust valve
Standard ................................................. 3.955 to 3.970 mm (0.1558 to 0.1564 inch)
M inimum ................... ................................. 3.925 mm (0.1547 inch)
Valve guide inside diameter (intake and exhaust)
D models
Standard......................................................... 4.500 to 4.512 mm (0.1773 to 0.1778 inch)
Maximum ....................................................... 4.58 mm (0.1805 inch)
E models
Standard...... ................................................... 4.000 to 4.012 mm (0.1576 to 0.1581 inch)
Maximum ....................................................... 4.07 mm (0.1604 inch)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance
Intake valve
Standard......................................* ................. 0.034 to 0.116 mm (0.0013 to 0.0045 inch)
Maximum ....................................................... 0.33 mm (0.0130 inch)
Exhaust valve
Standard................................................. .. 0.088 to 0.167 mm (0.0347 to 0.0066 inch)
Maximum ...... ................................................ 0.37 mm (0.0146 inch)
Valve seat width (intake and exhaust) .................... 0.5 to 1.0 mm (0.0197 to 0.0394 inch)
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*3

Cylinder head, valves and valve springs (continued)


Vbf/e spring free length
Orrodeis
Make (up to DE021419)
S t a r a a r d .................................................... 42.9 mm (1.6903 Inch)
M a x im u m ....................................... 41.2 mm (1.6233 Inch)
Irto e <DE02 i*i20 on)
Inner seeing
Standard 44,5 mm (1.7533 Inch)
Maximum 43.1 mm 11.6981 inch)
CXitw spring
Standard 44 I rm <1-7375 Inch)
Maximum 42.7 rnm(1 <5824 inch)
Exhaust
Standard 46.8 mm (1.8439 inch)
Maximum .. 45.1 mm (1.7770 Inch)
Emodels
Intake
Inner spring
Standard 40.00 mm (1.576 inchl
Maximum 38.6 mm (1 5208 Inch;
Outer sonng
Standard 42.69 mm (1,6820 inch)
Maximum 41.29 mm (1.6268 Inch)
Exnauat
Standard 43.95 mm (1.7316 inch)
Wojomum . 42.25 mm <1.6647 inch)
Cylinder block
»diameter
8tanca?d .. .. 64.000 to 64.0*2 mm (2-5216 to 2.5221 inch)
ttaxlnruir. 64.10 mm (2.5255 inch}

Pistons
i dlametfir
inoam ............................... 63.040 to 63.960 mm (2.5192 to 2.5200 inch)
Unimu'n................................. 63.79 mm (2.5133 Inch)
•to-cylnder clearance .. 0.040 to 0.072 mm (0.0018 to 0.0028 inch)
Mig-to-groove clearance
. 0.03 to 0.07 mm (0.0012 to 0.0028 Inch)
•Maximum............................ 0.17 mm ;0.0067 inch)
ring groove width
m dard................................. 0.82 to 0.8*1 mm (0.0323 to 0.0331 Inch)
Maximum............................... 1.12 mm (Q.0441 inch)
ring thickness
idard .................................. 0.77 to 0.79 mm (0.0303 to 0.0311 Inch)
IMinimum...................... 0.70 mm (0.0276 Inch)
ring end gap
id a id ................................. 0.15 to 0.30 mm (0.005!) to 0.0118 Inch)
Maximum ........................ 0.60 mm (0.0236 Inch)

Crankshaft and bearings


iktfvaft ondplay
iuc-u............................ 0.05 to 0.21 mm (0.0020 to 0.0083 inch)
[(Maximum .......................................... 0.40 mrr (0.0158 inch)
(Shaft runout
:Standee ................................... 0.02 mm (0.0008 >nch)
turn.................................... 0.05 mm (0.0020 mch)
Unln tearing oil clearance
^Standa-d................................. 0.0* 4 to 0.038 mm (0.0006 to 0.0015 nch)
'Mixlmurr ...................................... 0.070 mm (0.0028 tnon)
icase main bearing bore diameter
mark on c ra n k c a s e ....................... 36.000 to 36.008 mm (1.4184 to t .4187 inch)
No mark on crankcase 36.009 to 36.016 mm (1.4188 to 1.4190 inch)
bearing |oumal darnels*
No mark on crenk throw . . . 31.984 to 31.992 mm (1.2601 to t.2605 inch)
I* mark on crank throw . . 31.993 to 32.000 mm (1.2605 to 1.2608 inch)
2*4 Engine, clutch and transmission

Crankshaft and bearings (continued)


Connecting rod big-end side clearance
D models
Standard .................................................... 0.05 to 0.21 mm (0.0020 to 0.0083 inch)
Maximum ................................................. 0.40 mm (0.0158 inch)
E models
Standard................................................... 0.13 mm to 0.33 mm (0.0051 to 0.0130 inch)
Maximum ................................................. 0.50 mm (0.0217 inch)
Connecting rod bearing oil clearance
D models
Standard................................................... 0.035 to 0.059 mm (0.0014 to 0.002 inch)
Maximum ........................................... . 0.10 mm (0.0043 inch)
E models
Standard................................................... 0.036 to 0.066 mm (0.0014 to 0.0026 inch)
Maximum ................................... ............. 0.10 mm (0.0043 inch)
Connecting rod big-end inside diameter
D models
No mark on side of r o d .............................. 36.000 to 36.008 mm (1.4184 to 1.4187 inch)
‘0’ mark on side of rod .............................. 36.009 to 36.016 mm (1.4188 to 1.4190 inch)
E models
No mark on side of r o d .............................. 33.000 to 33.008 mm (1.3002 to 1.3005 inch)
‘O’ mark on side of rod .............................. 33.009 to 33.016 mm (1.3006 to 1.3008 inch)
Connecting rod journal (crankpin) diameter
D models
No mark on crank th ro w ........................ 32.984 to 32.992 mm (1.2996 to 1.2999 inch)
‘O’ mark on crank throw ............................ 32.993 to 33.000 mm (1.2999 to 1.3002 inch)
E models
No mark on crank th ro w ............................ 29.984 to 29.994 mm (1.1814 to 1.1818 inch)
‘O’ mark on crank throw .................... 29.995 to 30.000 mm (1.1818 to 1.182 inch)

Oil pump and relief valve


Oil pressure @4000 rpm ................................. 60 to 68 psi (4.2 to 4.8 bars)
Relief valve opening pressure........................ 54 to 77 psi (3.8 to 5.4 bars)

Clutch ^"
Spring free length
Standard....................................................... 33.6 mm (1.3238 inches)
Minimum....................................................... 32.6 mm (1.2844 inches)
Friction and steel plate warpage
Standard....................................... ............... 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch) or less
Maximum ............................. ....................... 0.3 mm (0.0118 inch)
Friction plate thickness
Standard....................................................... 2.9 to 3.1 mm (0.1143 to 0.1221 inch)
Maximum ..................................................... 2.8 mm (0.1103 inch)

Transmission
Shift fork ear thickness
Standard....................................................... 4.9 to 5.0 mm (0.1929 to 0.1969 inch)
Minimum....................................................... 4.8 mm (0.189 inch)
Shift fork groove width in gears
Standard................................................... 5.05 to 5.15 mm (0.1988 to 0.2028 inch)
Maximum ..................................................... 5.2 mm (0.2049 inch)
Shift fork guide pin diameter
Standard....................................................... 7.9 to 8.0 mm (0.3110 to 0.315 inch)
Minimum................................... .. ................ 7.8 mm (0.3071 inch)
Shift drum groove width
Standard............................................. 8.05 to 8.20 mm (0.3169 to 0.3228 inch)
Maximum ..................................................... 8.3 mm (0.3268 inch)

Torque specifications
Engine top end
Valve cover bolts ............................................. 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
Camshaft bearing cap b o lts .............................. 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
Camshaft sprocket bolts ................................. 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs)
Cam chain tensioner mounting b o lts ................ 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
Cylinder head bolts
New bolts, washers, cylinder head................ 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs)
Used bolts, washers, cylinder head .............. 43 Nm (32 ft-lbs)
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*5

Torque specifications (continued)


Clutch
Clutch cover bolts......................................... 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
Clutch cover noise damper b o lts ................. 5.9 Nm (52 in-lbs)
Clutch spring b o lts ....................................... 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
Clutch hub nut ............................................. 130 Nm (98 ft-lbs)
Engine lubrication system
External oil line banjo b o lts ........................... 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
Oil pan b olts................................................. 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
Oil pressure relief vaive................................. 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs)
Oil pressure sw itch....................................... 15 Nm (11 in-lbs)
Oil separator cover bolts (upper crankcase). 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
Engine bottom end
Crankcase bolts (see illustration 22.8)
T1 ............................................................ 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
T 2 ............................................................ 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
T 3 ............................................................ 15 Nm (132 in-lbs)
T 4 ............................................................ 20 Nm (174 in-lbs)
T 5 ............................................................ 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
T 6 ............................................................ Connecting rod cap nuts - see below
T 7 ............................................................ 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)
T 8 ............................................................ 25 Nm (216 in-lbs)
Connecting rod cap nuts:
Dmodels................................................... 36 Nm (27 ft-lbs)
Emodels (with new bolts/nuts)................. 24 Nm (17.5 ft-lbs) + 120‘
Emodels (with used b olts/nuts).............. 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) + 120°
Alternator stator b o lts ................................... 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
Engine mounting bolts/nuts
Dmodels................................................... 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
Emodels................................................... 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs)
Engine mounting bracket Allen bolts
Dmodels................................................... 20 Nm (174 in-lbs)
Emodels................................................... 23 Nm (198 in-lbs)

remove the engine from the frame. If,


1 General information however, a number of areas require attention 4 Major engine repair -
at the same time, removal of the engine is general note
recommended.
Gear selector mechanism external
The engine/transmission unit is of the components 1 It is not always easy to determine when or if
water-cooled, in-line, four-cylinder design, Water pump an engine should be completely overhauled,
installed transversely across the frame. The Starter motor as a number of factors must be considered.
sixteen valves are operated by double Alternator 2 High mileage is not necessarily an
overhead camshafts which are chain driven Clutch assembly indication that an overhaul is needed, while
off the crankshaft, the engine/transmission Oil pan, oil pump and relief valve low mileage, on the other hand, does not
assembly is constructed from aluminum alloy. Valve cover, camshafts, shims and buckets preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency
The crankcase is divided horizontally. Cam chain tensioner of servicing is probably the single most
The crankcase incorporates a wet sump, Cylinder head (D models only) important consideration. An engine that has
pressure-fed lubrication system which uses a Cylinder block and pistons regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as
gear-driven, dual-rotor oil pump, an oil filter (D models only) well as other required maintenance, will most
and by-pass valve assembly, a relief valve and likely give many miles of reliable service.
an oil pressure switch. Also contained in the Conversely, a neglected engine, or one which
crankcase is the secondary shaft and the has not been broken in properly, may require
starter motor clutch. 3 Operations requiring engine an overhaul very early in its life.
Power from the crankshaft is routed to the removal 3 Exhaust smoke and excessive oil
transmission via the clutch, which is of the consumption are both indications that piston
wet, multi-plate type and is chain-driven off rings and/or valve guides are in need of
the crankshaft. The transmission is a six- It is necessary to remove the attention. Make sure oil leaks are not
speed, constant-mesh unit. engine/transmission assembly from the frame responsible before deciding that the rings and
and separate the crankcase halves to gain guides are bad. Refer to Chapter 1 and
access to the following components: perform a cylinder compression check to
2 Operations possible with the Cylinder head (E models only) determine for certain the nature and extent of
engine in the frame Cylinder block and pistons (E models only) the work required.
Crankshaft, connecting rods and bearings 4 Low oil pressure is usually an indicator of
Transmission shafts excessive crankshaft bearing wear or a worn
The components and assemblies listed Shift drum and forks out oil pump. To check the oil pressure, refer
below can be removed without having to Camshaft chain to Section 17. If the oil pressure is lower than
2*6 Engine, clutch and transmission

5.9a To remove the external oil line, 5.9b . . . and this banjo bolt (arrowed) from 5.14 Remove this bolt (arrowed) fromthe
remove these two banjo bolts (arrowed) the crankcase top of the case and detach the ground stra
from the cylinder head . . .

specified, inspect the oil passages for 3 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
clogging, and inspect the oil pump, oil HAYNES As a general rule, time is the 4 Drain the coolant and the engine oil
pressure relief valves and the crankshaft primary cost of an overhaul Chapter 1).
bearing inserts for excessive wear. so it doesn’t pay to install 5 Remove the ignition coils (see Chapter
5 If the engine is making obvious knocking or worn or substandard parts. 6 Remove the air suction valve and
rumbling noises, the connecting rod and/or vacuum switching valve (see Chapter 1).
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life
main bearings are probably at fault. 7 Remove the carburetors (see Chapter
and minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
6 Loss of power, rough running, excessive and plug the intake openings with rags.
everything must be assembled with care in a
valve train noise and high fuel consumption 8 Remove the radiator, radiator hoses and
spotlessly clean environment.
rates may also point to the need for an cooler (see Chapter 3).
overhaul, especially if they are all present at 9 Remove the external oil line from the fi
the same time. If a complete tune-up does not of the engine (see illustrations).
remedy the situation, major mechanical work
is the only solution.
5 Engine -
% 10 Remove the exhaust system
Chapter 4).
7 An engine overhaul generally involves
restoring the internal parts to the
removal and installation
I 11 Disconnect the lower end of the clul
cable from the lever and bracket (see 'Da
specifications of a new engine. During an (pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of
Warning: Engine removal and
overhaul the piston rings are replaced and the
cylinder walls are bored and/or honed. If a
rebore is done, then new pistons are also
required. The main and connecting rod
A installation should be done with
the aid of at least one assistant
- and preferably two - to avoid
Manual).
12 Remove the engine sprocket covi
unbolt the engine sprocket and detach t
sprocket and chain from the engine (:
back injuries, or injuries that could occur if
bearings are generally replaced with new ones Chapter 7).
the engine is dropped. A hydraulic floor
and, if necessary, the crankshaft is also 13 Mark and disconnect the wires from
jack should be used to support and lower
replaced. Generally the valves are serviced as oil pressure switch, the neutral switch and
the engine if possible (available at any
well, since they are usually in less than perfect starter motor. Unplug the alternat
equipment rental yard).
condition at this point. While the engine is sidestand and pickup coil electric
being overhauled, other components such as connectors (see Chapters 5 and 9).
the carburetors and the starter motor can be Removal 14 Remove the bolt securing the ground 4
rebuilt also. The end result should be a like- 1 Set the bike on its centerstand. to the engine case (see illustration).
new engine that will give as many trouble free 2 Remove the seat, the side covers 15 Remove the heat guards
miles as the original. and the upper and lower fairings (see illustrations).
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read Chapter 8). 16 Support the engine with a floor jack a
through all of the related procedures to
familiarize yourself with the scope and
requirements of the job. Overhauling an
engine is not all that difficult, but it is time
consuming. Plan on the motorcycle being tied
up for a minimum of two (2) weeks. Check on
the availability of parts and make sure that
any necessary special tools, equipment and
supplies are obtained in advance.
9 Most work can be done with typical shop
hand tools, although a number of
precision measuring tools are required for
inspecting parts to determine if they must
be replaced. Often a dealer service
department or motorcycle repair shop will
handle the inspection of parts and offer 5.15a To detach the center heat guard, 5.15b To detach the side heat guards fronl
advice concerning reconditioning and remove these two bolts (arrowed) the frame, remove these two bolts
replacement. (arrowed)
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*7

5.16 Support the engine with a floor jack 5.17a Remove the front left engine bolt 5.17b Remove the right front engine bolt,
the Allen bolts above it and the right
engine mounting bracket

5.18a Hold the bolt on the left side of the 5.18b Use the same technique to remove 5.19 Lower the engine from the frame until
frame and unscrew the lower rear engine the upper rear engine mounting bolt the floor jack is fully collapsed
mounting nut
woodblock (see illustration). Put the block of
woodbetween the two projections on the pan
-allowing the weight of the engine to rest on
theseprojections could damage them.
17 Remove the front engine mounting nuts
andbolts (see illustrations).
18 Pry the plugs from the holes in the frame
and remove the rear engine mounting nuts
andbolts (see illustrations).
19 Slowly and carefully lower the engine
assembly until the jack is fully collapsed (see
illustration).
20 Have a couple of assistants lift the engine
byhand just high enough so you can slip the
jack and wood block out from under the
engine assembly.
21 Place a block of wood under the front
wheel and have one assistant tilt the bike to
one side while you and the other helper drag
the engine assembly out from under the right
sideof the bike.
Installation
22 Be sure to inspect all engine mounting
bushings (see illustration) for cracks and
tears. Replace any damaged or worn
bushings.
23 Once the engine is in position, install the
front and rear mounting bolts, but don’t
tighten them until the engine has been
correctly aligned with the frame. This may
ssem like an unnecessary step, but it’s
not. On these models, the engine is a 5.22 Engine mounting bolts, nuts and bushings (D model shown, E model similar)
2*8 Engine, clutch and transmission

5.25 Engine adjustment details (E models)


1 Mounting adjusters 4 About 25 mm A Lower rear engine mounting bolt
2 Rear upper mounting bolt 5 Collars B Engine mounting bolt adjuster
3 Rear lower mounting bolt 6 Engine C 10 mm (0.394 inch)

“ stressed-member,” i.e. part of the frame. until it contacts the engine, then tighten to the e) Add the specified 50/50 mixture of
Because of manufacturing tolerances, the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. antifreeze and water (see Chapter 1)
engine must be correctly aligned, or it could Push both mounting bolts the rest of the way and bleed the air from the cooling
affect handling and/or wear on the drive chain through the holes in the adjusters, install the system.
and the countershaft and rear sprockets. A nuts and tighten them to the torque listed in f) Synchronize the carburetors and adjust,
pair of “ adjusters" (actually bushings with this Chapter’s Specifications. the idle (see Chapter 1).
internal hexes) take up the clearance between 25 The alignment procedure for E models
the engine and the frame in both rear (see illustration) is exactly the same except
mounting bolt holes on D models; a single that there’s only one adjuster - for the lower
6 Engine disassembly and
adjuster - in the lower rear hole only - does rear engine mounting bolt.
the same thing on E models. You'll find the 26 The remainder of installation is essentially
reassembly -
adjuster(s) inside the rear engine mounting the reverse of removal, with the following
general information
bolt hole(s) on the right side of the frame. additions:
24 To align the engine on D models, insert a) Use new gaskets at all exhaust pipe 1 Before disassembling the engine, clean
the collars and the rear upper and lower connections. exterior with a degreaser and rinse it v
engine mounting bolts from the left side of the b) Make sure all wires and hoses are routed water.
engine, but don’t shove the bolts all the way properly (refer to the cable, wire and hose
through yet; leave about 25 mm (.985 inch) routing diagrams at the end this book). A clean engine will make th
protruding as shown (see illustration). Screw c) Adjust the drive chain, throttle cables, HAYNES
job easier and prevent the
the lower engine mounting adjuster in a
clockwise direction until it contacts the
choke cable and clutch cable following
the procedures in ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks'
HilUT possibility of getting dirt int
the internal areas of the
engine, then tighten it to the torque listed in and Chapter 1. engine.
this Chapter’s Specifications. Now do the d) Fill the engine with the specified oil (see
same thing with the upper adjuster: Turn it in Chapter 1).

2 In addition to the precision measuring to<


mentioned earlier, you will need a torqj
wrench, a valve spring compressor, oil galk
brushes, a piston ring removal and installatlj
tool, a piston ring compressor, a pin-tyj
spanner wrench and a clutch holder to
(which is described in Section 20). Some nay
clean engine oil of the correct grade and typ
some engine assembly lube (or moly-bas<
grease), a tube of Kawasaki Bond liqu
gasket (part no. 92104-1003) or equivalati
and a tube of Kawasaki Bond silicone sealal
(part no. 56019-120) or equivalent, will also!
required. Although it may not be consider
6.2a A selection of brushes is required for tool, some Plastigauge should also I
cleaning holes and passages in the engine crankshaft, connecting rod and camshaft obtained to use for checking bearing (
components oil clearance clearances (see illustrations).
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*9

6.3 Construct an engine stand with short 7.8 To remove the valve cover, remove 7.10 Flip the valve cover upside-down and
lengths of 2x4s and lag bolts or nails these eight bolts (arrowed) inspect the chain rubbing block - if it’s
worn, replace it
3 An engine support stand made from short 4 Remove the upper and lower fairings (see Installation
! lengths of 2x4s bolted together will facilitate Chapter 8).
11 Peel the rubber gasket from the cover. If it
the disassembly and reassembly procedures 5 On US models, remove the Air Suction
is cracked, hardened, has soft spots or shows
(see illustration). The perimeter of the mount Valve and the Vacuum Switching Valve (see
signs of general deterioration, replace it.
should be just big enough to accommodate Chapter 1).
12 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder
theengine oil pan. 6 Remove the ignition coils and their
head and the valve cover with lacquer thinner,
4 When disassembling the engine, keep brackets, along with the spark plug wires (see
acetone or brake system cleaner. Apply a thin
"mated” parts together (including gears, Chapter 5).
film of RTV sealant to the half-circle cutouts
cylinders, pistons, etc. that have been in 7 Remove the heat guards (see illustration on each side of the head (see illustration).
contact with each other during engine 5.15a and 5.15b). 13 Install the gasket to the cover. Position
operation). These “ mated” parts must be 8 Remove the valve cover bolts (see the cover on the cylinder head, making sure
reused or replaced as an assembly. illustration). the gasket doesn’t slip out of place.
5 Engine/transmission disassembly should 9 Lift the cover off the cylinder head. If it’s 14 Check the rubber seals on the valve cover
be done in the following general order with stuck, don’t attempt to pry it off - tap around bolts; if they’re cracked, dried out or worn,
reference to the appropriate Sections. the sides of it with a plastic hammer to replace them. Install the bolts, tightening them
Remove the cylinder head dislodge it. evenly to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Remove the cylinder block 10 Check the rubbing block in the center of Specifications.
Remove the pistons the cover - if it’s excessively worn, pry it out 15 The remainder of installation is the reverse
Remove the clutch and install a new one (see illustration). of removal.
Remove the oil pan
Remove the external shift mechanism
Remove the alternator rotor/starter clutch
from the left end o f the crank (see
B Chapter 9)
Remove the starter gear from the left end of
the crankshaft
Remove the timing rotor from the right end
of the crankshaft (see Chapter 5)
Separate the crankcase halves
Remove the crankshaft and connecting
[ | i rods
Remove the transmission shafts/gears
Remove the shift drum/forks
6 Reassembly is accomplished by reversing
thegeneral disassembly sequence.

7 Valve cover -
removal and installation

Note: The valve cover can be removed with


the engine in the frame. If the engine has
been removed, ignore the steps which don’t
apply.
Removal
1 Set the bike on its centerstand.
2 Remove the seat and the front screws from
both side covers (see Chapter 8). 7.12 The valve cover assembly; apply sealant to the head, or to the areas (arrowed) of
3 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). the gasket
2*10 Engine, clutch and transmission

i p i

8.5 Depress the stopper (arrowed) and push in the plunger. Turr
8.3 Remove the cap bolt (center arrow), washer and spring, then the tensioner upside down and tap it in your hand - the guide pin|
the mounting bolts (outer arrows) will fall out

you retighten them from this position, you top (see illustration), install the tension
Camshaft chain tensioner -
removal and installation
% could damage the tensioner and the cam mounting bolts and tighten them to the torqi
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
I chain. Once the bolts are removed, the
tensioner must be removed and reset as 10 Insert the guide pin into the spring am
described below. And once the tensioner install the spring and guide pin into ttjj
is removed, NEVER turn over the tensioner, then push them in with the capt
Rem oval crankshaft. Doing so could upset cam (see illustration). Don’t forget to put
Note: The camshaft chain tensioner can be chain timing and damage the valves. copper sealing washer on the cap bolt
removed with the engine in the frame. If the 5 Push the stopper to release the ratchet 11 Using a wrench on the crankshaft bolt a
engine has been removed, ignore the steps mechanism (see illustration), depress the the right end of the engine (see Timing rota
which don't apply. tensioner plunger and fish out the guide pin removal and installation in Chapter 5), slow
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. from the spring side of the tensioner. Wash turn the crankshaft over a couple of turns i
2 Remove the fuel tank and carburetors (see the tensioner components with solvent. the normal direction of rotation.
Chapter 4).
3 Remove the tensioner cap bolt, sealing
Installation
9 Camshafts and lifters -
washer and spring (see illustration). 6 Lubricate the friction surfaces of the
removal, inspection and
4 Remove the tensioner mounting bolts and components with moly-based grease.
7 Inspect the tensioner gasket for cracks or
installation
detach the tensioner from the cylinder block.
Caution: This is a “non-return” type cam hardening. If it’s damaged, replace it.
chain tensioner; the tensioner plunger 8 Depress the stopper to release the ratchet Camshafts
doesn’t return to its original position once mechanism (see illustration 8.5) and push in
it has moved out to take up slack in the the tensioner plunger. Removal
cam chain. When removing the tensioner, 9 Position the tensioner body on the cylinder Note: This procedure can be performed I
NEVER take out the bolts only halfway; if block with the arrow on the tensioner at the the engine in the frame.

8.9 Install the cam chain tensioner with the arrow on top 8.10 Install the spring and guide pin into the tensioner, then
collapse the spring with the cap bolt
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*11

9.3 Turn the crankshaft until the T (TDC) mark (2) for 1,4 9.5 Remove these bolts (arrowed) in the reverse order in which
(cylinders 1 and 4) is aligned with the case pointer (1) they’re numbered

1 Remove the front retaining screws from 4 Remove the cam chain tensioner (see cap for right side) embossed on each bearing
both side covers (see Chapter 8), and remove Section 8). cap; when you reinstall the caps, be sure to
the fuel tank and the carburetors (see 5 Note the small numbers embossed on the install them in the same positions.
Chapter 4). bearing caps next to each pair of cap bolts; Caution: If the bearing cap bolts aren’t
2 Remove the valve cover (see Section 7). these numbers indicate the order in which the loosened evenly, the camshaft may bind.
3 Remove the pickup coil cover from the right bearing cap bolts are to be tightened (see 6 Look for marks on the camshafts. The intake
side of the engine (see Chapter 5). Using a illustration 9.21). When loosening the cap camshaft should have an IN mark and the
wrench on the large engine turning hex on the bolts, reverse this order. Unscrew the bearing exhaust camshaft should have an EX mark. If
end of the crankshaft, rotate the engine cap bolts (see illustration) evenly, a little at a you can’t find these marks, label the camshafts
clockwise until the T 1,4 mark on the timing time, until they are all loose, then lift off the to ensure they are installed in their original
rotor aligns with the static index mark on the bearing caps. Also note the “ L” (bearing cap locations (see illustration). Now loosen both
casing (see illustration). for the left side of the head) and “ R” (bearing intake camshaft sprocket bolts and the bolt

9.6a Label the camshaft sprockets and 9.6b Slide the intake cam through the 9.6c . . . then remove the intake cam
remove the three bolts (arrowed) you can intake sprocket and remove i t . . . sprocket
see

9.6d Lift the chain off the cam sprocket 9.6e Remove the exhaust cam and 9.6f Remove all four spark plug hole
and rotate the cam slightly to get at the sprocket O-rings and discard them; don’t lose the
other bolt four dowels
2*12 Engine, clutch and transmission

9.7 A broom handle makes a good hanger 9.9a Check the lobes for wear - here’s a 9.9b Measure the height of the cams
for the cam chain so the chain won’t fall good example of damage which requires lobes with a micrometer
down into the tunnel replacement or repair

that’s visible on the exhaust cam sprocket. Pull Inspection caps with a clean lint-free cloth, then layII
up on the camshaft chain and carefully guide cams in place in the cylinder head. Eng
Note: Before replacing camshafts or the
the intake camshaft out of the intake sprocket the cam chain with the sprockets,
cylinder head and bearing caps because o f
and remove the sprocket (see illustrations). camshafts don’t turn as the bearing c;
damage, check with local machine shops
Now that you have some chain slack, pull up on tightened.
specializing in motorcycle engine work. In the
the chain so it isn’t engaged with the exhaust 11 Cut eight strips of Plastigauge and layc
case o f the camshafts, it may be possible for
sprocket teeth, rotate the exhaust cam just piece on each bearing journal, parallel!
cam lobes to be welded, reground and
enough to reach that fourth sprocket bolt and the camshaft centerline (see illustration!
hardened, at a cost far lower than that o f a
remove the bolt (see illustration). Now remove Install the bearing caps in their
new camshaft. If the bearing surfaces in the
the exhaust cam and sprocket (see illustration). positions (see illustration 9.21) and in:
cylinder head are damaged, it may be possible
Finally, remove all four spark plug hole O-rings bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly in a criss-c
for them to be bored out to accept bearing
and all four dowels (see illustration). You can pattern until the specified torque is i
inserts. Because o f the high cost o f a new
use these dowels again (it’s a good idea to pull While doing this, don’t let the camsh
cylinder head, we recommend that all options
them out and put them in a small plastic bag), rotate.
be explored before condemning it as trash!
but discard the O-rings and install new ones 12 Now unscrew the bolts a little at a tin
8 inspect the cam bearing surfaces of the
when you reassemble the camshaft assembly. and carefully lift off the bearing caps.
head and the bearing caps. Look for score
Caution: DON’T rotate the crankshaft or
marks, deep scratches and evidence of 13 To determine the oil clearance, comp
the cam chain!
spading (a pitted appearance). the crushed Plastigauge (at its widest po
7 While the camshafts are out, don’t allow the
9 Check the camshaft lobes for heat on each journal to the scale printed on I
chain to go slack - if you do, it will become
discoloration (blue appearance), score marks, Plastigauge container (see illustratio
detached from the gear on the crankshaft and
chipped areas, flat spots and spalling (see Compare the results to this Chapie
may bind between the crankshaft and case,
illustration). Measure the height of each lobe Specifications, noting that the figures diff
which could cause damage to these
with a micrometer (see illustration) and depending on the cylinder number. If the£
components. Wire the chain to another
compare the results to the minimum lobe clearance is greater than specified, meas<
component, or hang it from a wooden dowel
(see illustration), to prevent it from dropping height listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the diameter of the cam bearing journal \
damage is noted or wear is excessive, the micrometer (see illustration). If the joura
down into the cam chain tunnel.
camshaft must be replaced. Also, be sure to diameter is less than the specified
Cover the top of the cylinder check the condition of the followers as replace the camshaft with a new one i
HAYNES described later in this Section.
head with a rag to prevent recheck the clearance. If the clearance iss
HilUT foreign objects from falling 10 Next, check the camshaft bearing oil
clearances. Clean the camshafts, the bearing
too great, replace the cylinder head
into the engine. bearing caps with new parts.
surfaces in the cylinder head and bearing 14 Except in cases of oil starvation, the (

9.11 Lay a strip of Plastigauge across each 9.13a Compare the width of the crushed 9.13b Measure the cam bearing jouma
bearing journal, parallel with the camshaft Plastigauge to the scale printed on the with a micrometer
centerline Plastigauge container
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*13

9.19a The exhaust cam has the letters EX embossed on it (1); the intake cam
sprockets has IN on it (2)
! Sprocket 3 Marked face
compound to the sprocket bolts and tighten 19 Apply engine oil (or a coat of engine
2 Bolt
them to the specified torque when installing assembly lube if new camshafts are being
the camshafts. fitted) to the lobes. Make sure the camshaft
chain wears very little. If the chain has
17 Inspect the front (exhaust side) and rear bearing journals are clean, then lay the
stretched excessively, which makes it difficult
(intake side) cam chain guides (the long black exhaust camshaft, followed by the intake
tomaintain proper tension, replace it with a
rubbing blocks that protect the cam chain camshaft, in the cylinder head - do not mix
new one (see Section 27 for chain stretch
tunnel from the chain) (see Section 27). If the them up (see illustration). Verify that the T
measurement and replacement).
front cam chain guide must be replaced, you’ll 1.4 mark on the timing rotor is still aligned
15 Check the sprockets for wear, cracks and
have to remove the cylinder head (see (see Step 3) and align the marks on the cam
other damage, replacing them if necessary. If
Section 10). If the rear guide must be sprockets exactly with the cylinder head
thesprockets are worn, the cam chain is also
replaced, the cylinder block must be removed surface (see illustration).
worn, and so is the sprocket on the
(see Section 13). If the cam chain itself must 20 Make sure that the timing marks are
crankshaft. If severe wear is apparent, the
be replaced, you’ll have to split the cases (see
entire engine should be disassembled for aligned as described in Step 19, then mesh
Section 22).
inspection. the chain with the camshaft sprockets. Count
16 Replace the camshaft sprockets if Installation the number of chain link pins between the EX
necessary. Install the new sprocket so that its 18 Make sure the bearing surfaces in the mark and the IN mark (see illustration 9.19b).
marked side faces away from the flange to cylinder head and the bearing caps are clean, There should be no slack in the chain between
which it's attached, toward the right of the then apply engine oil to each of them. Install the two sprockets.
engine (see illustration). Apply thread locking four new spark plug hole O-rings. 21 Install the dowels in their locations.

9.19b Make sure the camshaft sprockets are properly aligned before installing and tighten the bolts
2*14 Engine, clutch and transmission

removed the engine on a D model, ignore the


steps which don't apply. It should be noteO,
however, that removing and installing the four
outer cylinder head bolts on D models is trick,
with the engine still attached to the frame. So
we recommend removing the engine befon
removing the head even on D modeli
Although removing and installing the engine
certainly adds more time to head removal ant
installation, it makes the job itself easier. h\
any rate, if you’re removing the head on aI)
model, read through the following procedure
before you decide which way to go. Finally, on
E models, you MUST remove the engine from
the bike before the cylinder head can be
removed.
D models
9.21 The camshaft bearing caps are marked L and R to indicate which side of the head
they’re attached. The tightening sequence for the bearing caps is indicated by the 1 Remove the fuel tank and the carburetors
number embossed into the cap next to each bolt (see Chapter 4).
2 Remove the upper and lower fairings (see
1 Camshaft caps 2 “L” mark 3 Longer bolts 4 “R” mark Chapter 8).
3 Remove the radiator (see Chapter 3).
Carefully set the bearing caps in place in their and probably have to remove the camshafts 4 Remove the exhaust system (see
proper positions (see illustration) and install again as well, but you may also damage valve Chapter 4).
the bolts. Snug all of the bolts evenly, in the train parts. 5 Remove the upper coolant pipe from the
order of the number next to each bolt, then 29 Using a magnet if necessary, lift each cylinder head (see Chapter 3).
tighten them in this same order to the torque follower out of the cylinder head and store it in 6 Remove the external oil line banjo bolts and
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. its corresponding compartment in the washers from the cylinder head and the
22 Insert your finger or a wood dowel into the container. The shim is likely to stick to the crankcase (see illustrations 5.9a and 5.9b
cam chain tensioner hole and apply pressure inside of the follower so take great care not to and remove the external oil line.
to the cam chain. Check the timing marks to lose it when removing the follower. Remove
E models
make sure they are aligned (see Step 19) and the shims and store each one with its
there are still the correct number of link pins respective follower. 7 Remove the engine (see Section 5).
between the EX and IN marks on the cam Inspection All models
sprockets. If necessary, change the position 8 Remove the valve cover (see Section 7),
of the sprocket(s) on the chain to bring all of 30 No figures are available to determine wear
of the lifters or bore. Inspect the lifters for 9 Remove the camshaft chain tensioner (see
the marks into alignment. Section 8).
Caution: If the marks are not aligned signs of excessive wear or scoring, and if
necessary replace them. Wear of their bores 10 Remove the camshafts (see Section 9). i
exactly as described, the valve timing will
will necessitate cylinder head replacement. 11 Remove the cylinder block-to-cylinder
be incorrect and the valves may contact
head bolts in the reverse order of the
the pistons, causing extensive damage to Installation
tightening sequence (see illustration 10.19a),
the engine. 31 Fit each shim to the top of its correct Besides the eight bolts within the perimeterol
23 Install the cam chain tensioner (see valve making sure it is correctly seated in the the head, don’t forget the two bolts on each
Section 8). valve spring retainer. Note: It is essential that end of the head. To remove these outer bolts
24 Check the valve clearances (see the shims are returned to their original valves, on D models with the engine still installed lit
Chapter 1) and install the pickup coil cover otherwise the valve clearances will be the frame, you’ll need Kawasaki’s hex wrendl
(see Chapter 5). inaccurate. (tool no. 57001-1234) or a suitable equivalent.
25 Install the valve cover (see Section 7). 32 Lubricate the surface of the followers with 12 On D models with the engine in the framei
26 Install the carburetors and the fuel tank engine oil, then install them in their respective raise the head slightly and remove the two left
(see Chapter 4). Install and tighten the front positions in the cylinder head, making sure and two right bolts. On D models with the
retaining screws for the side covers (see each one squarely enters its bore. engine removed, and on all E models, simpl
Chapter 8). Install the seat. 33 Install the camshafts and check the valve pull the cylinder head off the cylinder block,
clearances. the head is stuck, tap around the side of the
Lifters
head with a rubber mallet to jar it loose, or use
Removal two wooden dowels inserted into the intakes
27 Remove the camshafts. 10 Cylinder head - exhaust ports to lever the head off. Don't
28 Obtain a container with at least 16 removal and installation attempt to pry the head off by inserting 8
compartments and label each compartment screwdriver between the head and the
with the number of its corresponding valve in cylinder block - you’ll damage the sealing
the cylinder head. Or write the cylinder surfaces.
number and position of the lifter on top with a Removal 13 Pull out the front cam chain guide and
laundry marking pen (for example: cylinder no. Caution: The engine must be completely inspect it (see Section 27). You can't remove
1, intake, left; cyl no. 2, intake, right; etc.) and cool before beginning this procedure, or the rear cam chain guide without pulling off
stick the lifter and shim into a plastic bag. the cylinder head may become warped. the cylinder block, but now is the time to
Whatever method you use, DON’T MIX UP Note: On D models, the cylinder head can be inspect it anyway, just in case it needs to be
THE LIFTERS! Not only will you have to removed with the engine in the frame replaced (see Section 27). Stuff a clean ra§
measure the valve clearances all over again - (although it’s difficult); so, if you have already into the cam chain tunnel to prevent the entry
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*15

10.14 Remove the old cylinder head gasket and the dowels 10.17 Install the dowels (lower arrows) and fit the gasket with the
(arrow points to right dowel) UP mark to the left of the tunnel.

of debris. Remove all of the washers from detached from the crankshaft. When the head 23 On D models, install the upper coolant
their seats, using a pair of needle-nose pliers. is resting against the cylinder block, wire the pipe (see Chapter 3) and the external oil line
14 Remove the old head gasket and the two cam chain to another component to keep (see illustrations 5.9a and 5.9b). Be sure to
dowel pins from the cylinder block (see tension on it. use new sealing washers and tighten the
illustration). 19 Install the cylinder head-to-block bolts banjo bolts to the torque listed in this
15 Check the cylinder head gasket and the and gradually and evenly tighten them in the Chapter’s Specifications. Then install the
mating surfaces on the cylinder head and specified sequence (see illustration) to the exhaust system (see Chapter 4), the radiator
block for leakage, which could indicate torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. (see Chapter 3), the upper and lower fairings
warpage. Refer to Section 12 and check the Note that the head bolts which are longer than (see Chapter 8) and the carburetors and fuel
flatness of the cylinder head. the others must be installed in the correct tank (see Chapter 4).
16 Clean all traces of old gasket material holes. If you’ re installing the head on a D 24 On all models, change the engine oil (see
fromthe cylinder head and block. Be careful model with the engine in the frame, the two Chapter 1).
not to let any of the gasket material fall into
bolts on each end of the head can be
thecrankcase, the cylinder bores or the water
tightened to the specified torque with a hex 11 Valves/valve seats/valve ^
passages.
wrench. At a point 150 mm (5-29/32 inches) guides - servicing ^
Installation from the working end of the hex wrench,
17 Install the two dowel pins, then lay the apply 32 kg of force to each outer bolt (29.4
new gasket in place on the cylinder block. kg for a used bolt) (see illustration).
1 Because of the complex nature of this job
Make sure the UP mark on the gasket is 20 Install the front camshaft chain guide with
and the special tools and equipment required,
positioned on the left-hand side of the engine its “ UP” mark at the top. Push the guide all
servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the
(see illustration). Never reuse the old gasket the way down (see Section 27).
anddon’t use any type of gasket sealant. 21 Install the camshafts (see Section 9), the
18 Carefully lower the cylinder head over the camshaft chain tensioner (see Section 8) and
studs. It is helpful to have an assistant the valve cover (see Section 7).
support the camshaft chain with a piece of 22 On E models, install the engine (see
wire so it doesn’t fall and become kinked or Section 5).

10.19b If you’re installing the head on a D


model, and the engine is in the frame:
1 Insert a Kawasaki hex wrench (tool no.
57001-1234) or similar Allen wrench into
each outer head bolt
2 Measure off 150 mm from the working
end of the hex wrench out, toward the
end o f the handle
3 Maintaining the force at an angle o f 90-
degrees to the wrench . . .
10.19a Head bolt tightening sequence; bolts 5 and 7 are longer and must be in the 4 . . . apply 32 kg (70.5 lbs) o f force to the
correct holes head bolt (29.4 kg [65 lbs] for used bolts)
2*16 Engine, clutch and transmission

valve guides (commonly known as a valve job)


is best left to a professional.
2 The home mechanic can, however, remove
and disassemble the head, do the initial
cleaning and inspection, then reassemble and
deliver the head to a dealer service
department or properly equipped motorcycle
repair shop for the actual valve servicing.
Refer to Section 12 for those procedures.
3 The dealer service department will remove
the valves and springs, recondition or replace
the valves and valve seats, replace the valve
guides, check and replace the valve springs,
spring retainers and keepers (as necessary),
replace the valve seals with new ones and 12.7a Compress the valve spring with a 12.7b . . . and remove the collets (kee
reassemble the valve components. valve spring compressor . . .
4 After the valve job has been performed, the (if the necessary special tools are available) by head. Gasket removing solvents, which
head will be in like-new condition. the home mechanic. This way no expense is very well, are available at most motorq
incurred if the inspection reveals that service shops and auto parts stores.
When the head is returned, work is not required at this time. 5 Carefully scrape all carbon deposits
HAYNES
be sure to clean it again very 2 To properly disassemble the valve the combustion chamber area. A hand-l
HilUT thoroughly before components without the risk of damaging wire brush or a piece of fine emery cloth
installation on the engine to them, a valve spring compressor is absolutely be used once the majority of deposits hi
remove any metal particles or abrasive necessary. If the special tool is not available, been scraped away. Do not use a wire b|
grit that may still be present from the have a dealer service department or mounted in a drill motor, or one
valve service operations. Use motorcycle repair shop handle the entire extremely stiff bristles, as the head mati
compressed air, if available, to blow out process of disassembly, inspection, service or soft and may be eroded away or scratchi
all the holes and passages. repair (if required) and reassembly of the the wire brush.
valves. 6 Before proceeding, arrange to label
store the valves along with their relat!
Disassembly components so they can be kept sepi
12 Cylinder head and valves - ^ 3 Remove the lifters and their shims if you and reinstalled in the same valve guides
disassembly, inspection and ^ haven’t already done so (see Section 9). Store are removed from (again, plastic bags
reassembly ^ the components in such a way that they can well for this).
be returned to their original locations without 7 Compress the valve spring on the first vi
1 As mentioned in the previous Section, valve getting mixed up (labeled plastic bags work with a spring compressor, then remove
servicing and valve guide replacement should well). keepers (see illustrations) and the
be left to a dealer service department or 4 Before the valves are removed, scrape from the valve assembly. Do not comi
motorcycle repair shop. However, away any traces of gasket material from the the springs any more than is absol
disassembly, cleaning and inspection of the head gasket sealing surface. Work slowly and necessary. Carefully release the valve spi
valves and related components can be done do not nick or gouge the soft aluminum of the compressor and remove the springs and
valve from the head (see illustration). If
valve binds in the guide (won’t pull throi
push it back into the head and deburr the
around the keeper groove with a very fine
or whetstone (see illustration).
8 Repeat the procedure for the remainl
valves. Remember to keep the parts fore;
valve together so they can be reinstalled in
same location.

Lifter (bucket)
Shim DEBURR
Collets (keepers)
Valve spring
retainer
Inner valve spring
Outer valve
spring
Valve spring seat
Valve guide seal
Valve
12.7d If the valve binds in the guide,
deburr the area above the collet (keeper)
12.7c An exploded view of the exhaust (left) and intake (right) valve assemblies groove
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*17

12.14 Check the gasket surface for flatness with a straightedge 12.15 Measuring valve seat width
and feeler gauge in all directions

9 Once the valves have been removed and head will be required. Check the cam bearing Specifications. If it is not within the specified
labeled, pull off the valve stem seals with surfaces for wear and evidence of seizure. range, or if it varies around its circumference,
pliers and discard them (the old seals should Check the camshafts and rocker arms for valve service work is required.
never be reused), then remove the spring wear as well (see Section 9). 16 Clean the valve guides to remove any
seats. 14 Using a precision straightedge and a carbon buildup, then measure the inside
10 Next, clean the cylinder head with solvent feeler gauge, check the head gasket mating diameters of the guides (at both ends and the
and dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will surface for warpage. Lay the straightedge center of the guide) with a small hole gauge
speed the drying process and ensure that all lengthwise, across the head and diagonally and a 0-to-25 mm m icrom eter (see
holes and recessed areas are clean. (corner-to-corner), intersecting the head bolt illustrations). Record the measurements for
11 Clean all of the valve springs, keepers, holes, and try to slip a 0.05 mm (0.002 in) future reference. These measurements, along
retainers and spring seats with solvent and feeler gauge under it, on either side of each with the valve stem diameter measurements,
dry them thoroughly. Do the parts from one combustion chamber (see illustration). If the will enable you to compute the valve stem-to-
valve at a time so that no mixing of parts feeler gauge can be inserted between the guide clearance. This clearance, when
between valves occurs. head and the straightedge, the head is compared to the Specifications, will be one
12 Scrape off any deposits that may have warped and must either be machined or, if factor that will determine the extent of the
formed on the valve, then use a motorized warpage is excessive, replaced with a new valve service work required. The guides are
wire brush to remove deposits from the valve one. measured at the ends and at the center to
heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves 15 Examine the valve seats in each of the determine if they are worn in a bell-mouth
donot get mixed up. com bustion chambers. If they are pitted, pattern (more wear at the ends). If they are,
cracked or burned, the head will require valve guide replacement is an absolute must.
Inspection service that is beyond the scope of the home 17 Carefully inspect each valve face for
13 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks mechanic. Measure the valve seat width (see cracks, pits and burned spots. Check the
andother damage. If cracks are found, a new illustration) and compare it to this Chapter’s valve stem and the keeper groove area for

12.16a Measure the valve guide inside diameter with a hole 12.16b . then measure the gauge with a micrometer
g auge . . .
2*18 Engine, clutch and transmission

12.17 Check the valve face (A), stem (B) and keeper/collet groove 12.18a Measuring valve stem diameter
(C) for wear and damage

cracks (see illustration). Rotate the valve and valve stem-to-guide clearance is obtained. If Specifications, replace the valve (;
check for any obvious indication that it is the stem -to-guide clearance is greater than illustration).
bent. Check the end of the stem for pitting listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the 19 Check the end of each valve spring
and excessive wear and make sure the bevel guides and valves will have to be replaced wear and pitting. Measure the free length(i
is the specified width. The presence of any of with new ones. Also check the valve stem for illustration) and compare it to this Chapti
the above conditions indicates the need for bending. Set the valve in a V-block with a dial Specifications. Any springs that are shoi
valve servicing. indicator touching the middle of the stem (see than specified have sagged and should nol
18 Measure the valve stem diameter (see illustration). Rotate the valve and note the reused. Stand the spring on a flat surface I
illustration). By subtracting the stem reading on the gauge. If the stem runout check it for squareness (see illustration).
diameter from the valve guide diameter, the exceeds the value listed in this Chapter’s 20 Check the spring retainers and keep

12.18b Check the valve stem for bends with a V-block (or V-blocks, as shown here) and 12.18c Measuring valve head margin
a dial indicator thickness

12.19a Measuring the free length of the valve springs 12.19b Checking the valve springs for squareness
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*19

12.23 Apply the lapping compound very sparingly, in small dabs, 12.24a After lapping, the valve face should exhibit a uniform,
to the valve face only unbroken contact pattern (arrowed). . .

lor obvious wear and cracks. Any your hands. Use a back-and-forth motion them into its guide. Next, install the springs
questionable parts should not be reused, as rather than a circular motion (see and retainers, compress the springs and
extensive damage will occur in the event of illustration). Lift the valve off the seat and install the keepers. Note: Install the springs
failure during engine operation. turn it at regular intervals to distribute the with the tightly wound coils at the bottom
21 If the inspection indicates that no service lapping compound properly. Continue the (next to the spring seat). When compressing
work is required, the valve components can lapping procedure until the valve face the springs with the valve spring compressor,
bereinstalled in the head. and seat contact area is of uniform width depress them only as far as is absolutely
and unbroken around the entire necessary to slip the keepers into place. Apply
Reassembly circum ference of the valve face and seat a small amount o f grease to the keepers (see
22 Before installing the valves in the head, (see illustrations). illustration) to help hold them in place as the
they should be lapped to ensure a positive 25 Carefully remove the valve from the guide pressure is released from the springs. Make
seal between the valves and seats. This and wipe off all traces of lapping compound. certain that the keepers are securely locked in
procedure requires fine valve lapping Use solvent to clean the valve and wipe the their retaining grooves.
compound (available at auto parts stores) and seat area thoroughly with a solvent soaked 28 Support the cylinder head on blocks so
avalve lapping tool. If a lapping tool is not cloth. Repeat the procedure for the remaining the valves can’t contact the workbench top,
available, a piece of rubber or plastic hose valves. then very gently tap each of the valve stems
can be slipped over the valve stem (after the 26 Lay the spring seats in place in the with a soft-faced hammer. This will help seat
wive has been installed in the guide) and cylinder head, then install new valve stem the keepers in their grooves.
usedto turn the valve. seals on each of the guides (see illustration). 29 Once all of the valves have been installed
23 Apply a small amount of fine lapping Use an appropriate size deep socket to push in the head, check for proper valve sealing by
compound to the valve face (see illustration), the seals into place until they are properly pouring a small amount of solvent into each of
then slip the valve into the guide. Note: Make seated. Don’t twist or cock them, or they will the valve ports. If the solvent leaks past the
sure the valve is installed in the correct guide not seal properly against the valve stems. valve(s) into the com bustion chamber area,
and be careful not to get any lapping Also, don't remove them again or they will be disassemble the valve(s) and repeat the
compound on the valve stem. damaged. lapping procedure, then reinstall the valve(s)
24 Attach the lapping tool (or hose) to the 27 Coat the valve stems with assembly lube and repeat the check. Repeat the procedure
valveand rotate the tool between the palms of or moly-based grease, then install one of until a satisfactory seal is obtained.

12.24b . . . and the seat should be the 12.26 Using the handle of a hammer, an 12.27 A dab of grease will hold the
specified width (arrowed) with a smooth, extension and a small socket, tap on the keepers/collets in place while the spring
unbroken appearance valve guide seals compressor is released
2*20 Engine, clutch and transmission

13.3a Pry between a mounting bolt boss on the crankcase and a 13.3b If the cylinder block is stuck, use a rubber mallet
boss for the lower water pipe it loose

13.3c To remove the cylinder block, lift it straight up off the the front chain guide, pull it straight up
pistons
tion 7), the camshaft chain tensioner (see between the gasket mating surfaces!
13 Cylinder block - removal, ^ Section 8), the camshafts (see Section 9) and block and the crankcase. If it's stuck, I
inspection and installation ^ the cylinder head (see Section 10). Make sure around its perimeter with a soft-fa
the crankshaft is positioned at Top Dead hammer (see illustration). Lift the cylin
Center (TDC) for cylinders 1 and 4. block straight up to remove it (a
2 Remove the lower water pipe from the illustration).
Removal cylinder block (see Chapter 3). 4 Lift out the camshaft chain front guide(sj
1 On E models, remove the engine. On all 3 Pry the cylinder block loose as shown (see illustration).
models, remove the valve cover (see Sec­ illustration). Do NOT try to insert the prybar 5 Remove the dowel pins from the ma
surface of the crankcase (see illustration].£
careful not to let these drop into the en
Stuff rags around the pistons and removefi
gasket and all traces of old gasket mat(
from the surfaces of the cylinder block)
the cylinder head.
Inspection
Caution: Don’t attempt to separate the
liners from the cylinder block.
6 Check the cylinder walls carefully
scratches and score marks.
7 Using the appropriate precision mea
tools, check each cylinder’s diameter at t
13.5 Remove the positioning dowels from 13.7 Measure the diameter 10 mm and specified distances from the top of the cylin
the crankcase 60 mm from the top, in front-to-rear and parallel to the crankshaft axis (see illus
side-to-side directions Next, measure each cylinder’s diameter atl
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*21

13.12 Use pieces of wire to hold the pistons in position 13.13 Install the new base gasket with the “UP” to the left of the
cam chain tunnel
same two locations across the crankshaft axis. wall. If you do not have the tools, or do not 12 Slowly rotate the crankshaft until all of the
Compare the results to this Chapter's desire to perform the honing operation, a pistons are at the same level. Slide lengths of
Specifications. If the cylinder walls are tapered, dealer service department or motorcycle repair welding rod or pieces of a straightened-out
out-of-round, worn beyond the specified limits, shop will generally do it for a reasonable fee. coat hanger under the pistons, on both sides
or badly scuffed or scored, have them rebored 10 Next, the cylinders must be thoroughly of the connecting rods (see illustration). This
andhoned by a dealer service department or a washed with warm soapy water to remove all will help keep the pistons level as the cylinder
motorcycle repair shop. If a rebore is done, traces of the abrasive grit produced during the block is lowered onto them.
oversize pistons and rings will be required as honing operation. Be sure to run a brush 13 Install the dowel pins, then lower a new
well. Note: Kawasaki supplies pistons in only through the bolt holes and flush them with cylinder base gasket over the studs, with the
oneoversize - +0.5 mm (+0.020 inch). running water. After rinsing, dry the cylinders UP mark on the left-hand side of the engine
8 As an alternative, if the precision measuring thoroughly and apply a coat of light, rust- (see illustration).
tools are not available, a dealer service preventative oil to all machined surfaces. 14 Attach four piston ring compressors to the
department or motorcycle repair shop will pistons and compress the piston rings (see
make the measurements and offer advice Installation illustration). Large hose clamps can be
concerning servicing of the cylinders. If they 11 Lubricate the cylinder bores with plenty of used instead - just make sure they don’t
are in reasonably good condition and not clean engine oil. Apply a thin film of moly- scratch the pistons, and don’t tighten them
worn to the outside of the limits, and if the based grease to the piston skirts. too much.
piston-to-cylinder clearances can be
maintained properly (see Section 14), then the
cylinders do not have to be rebored; honing is
all that is necessary.
9 To perform the honing operation you will
need the proper size flexible hone with fine
stones, or a “bottle brush” type hone, plenty of
light oil or honing oil, some shop towels and an
electric drill motor. Hold the cylinder block in a
visa(cushioned with soft jaws or wood blocks)
when performing the honing operation. Mount
the hone in the drill motor, compress the
stones and slip the hone into the cylinder.
Lubricate the cylinder thoroughly, turn on the
drill and move the hone up and down in the
cylinder at a pace which will produce a fine
crosshatch pattern on the cylinder wall with
the crosshatch lines intersecting at
approximately a 60° angle. Be sure to use
plenty of lubricant and do not take off any
more material than is absolutely necessary to
produce the desired effect. Do not withdraw
I the hone from the cylinder while it is running.
Instead, shut off the drill and continue moving
13.14 To install the cylinder block, squeeze the piston rings with four piston ring
the hone up and down in the cylinder until it
comes to a complete stop, then compress the compressors
stones and withdraw the hone. Wipe the oil out 1 Piston base (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-1336)
of the cylinder and repeat the procedure on 2 Piston ring compressor assembly (Kawasaki tool no. 5 7001-1094)
I the remaining cylinder. Remember, do not 3 Chamfer on piston compressor tool faces up
remove too much material from the cylinder 4 Front of engine (tools must be installed from rear)
2*22 Engine, clutch and transmission

14.3a Scribe or mark the number of each 14.3b Pry the piston pin circlip loose with 14.3c Pull out the piston pin circlip wit
piston into the piston crown a small screwdriver pair of needle-nose pliers

15 Install the cylinder block over the studs 16 Remove the piston ring compressors or Removal
and carefully lower it down until the piston hose clamps, being careful not to scratch the
3 Using a sharp scribe, scratch the numb
crowns fit into the cylinder liners. While doing pistons. Remove the rods from under the
each piston into its crown (see illustratiijj
this, pull the camshaft chain up, using a pistons. Each piston should also have an an
hooked tool or a piece of coat hanger. Push 17 Install the cam chain front guide (see pointing toward the front of the engine. Iff
down on the cylinder block, making sure the Section 27).
scribe an arrow into the piston crown I
pistons don’t get cocked sideways, until the 18 Install the cylinder head (see Section 10),
removal. Support the first piston and pryc
bottom of the cylinder liners slide down past the camshafts (see Section 9), the camshaft
the circlip with a small screwdriver
the piston rings. A wood or plastic hammer chain tensioner (see Section 8) and the valve
illustration). Grasp the circlip with ne
handle can be used to gently tap the block cover (see Section 7).
nose pliers and remove it from the gro
down, but don’t use too much force or the 19 On E models, install the engine (see
(see illustration).
pistons will be damaged. Section 5).
4 Push out the piston pin far enough tot
hold of it and pull it out of the piston I
illustration). If the pin won’t come out, i
special piston pin removal tool (Kawasaki
14 Pistons - removal, inspection ^ no. 57001-910). You may have to deburrt!
and installation Sjk area around the groove to enable the pin
slide out (use a triangular file for
procedure). Repeat the procedure for I
1 The pistons are attached to the connecting remaining pistons.
rods with piston pins that are a slip fit in the
pistons and rods.
Inspection
2 Before removing the pistons from the rods, 5 Before the inspection process can]
stuff a clean shop towel into each crankcase carried out, the pistons must be cleane
hole, around the connecting rods. This the old piston rings removed.
will prevent the circlips from falling into 6 Using a piston ring installation to
14.4a Push the piston pin through far enough the crankcase if they are inadvertently carefully remove the rings from the pisti
to grasp it and pull it out of the piston dropped. (see illustration). Do not nick or gouget
pistons in the process.
7 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top
HAYNES the pistons. A hand-held wire brush or apie
of fine emery cloth can be used once!
ms majority of the depositsTiave been sera
away. Do not, under any circumstances, us

The piston pins should come out with hand pressure - if they don’t, this removal tool
can be fabricated from readily available parts
1 Bolt 5 Piston A Large enough for piston
2 Washer 6 Washer (B) pin to fit inside
3 Pipe (A) 7 Nut (B) B Small enough to fit
4 Padding (A) through piston pin bore 14.6 Remove the piston rings with a rin
removal and installation tool
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*23

and cylinder on one of the thrust faces (90-


degrees to the piston pin bore). The piston
should slip through the cylinder (with the
feeler gauge in place) with moderate pressure.
If it falls through, or slides through easily, the
clearance is excessive and a new piston will
be required. If the piston binds at the lower
end of the cylinder and is loose toward the
top, the cylinder is tapered, and if tight spots
are encountered as the piston/feeler gauge is
rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is out-of­
round. Repeat the procedure for the
remaining pistons and cylinders. Be sure to
have the cylinders and pistons checked by a
14.11 Check the piston pin bore and the 14.13 Measure the piston ring-to-groove
dealer service department or a motorcycle
skirt for wear, and make sure the oil holes clearance with a feeler gauge
repair shop to confirm your findings before
are clear (arrowed)
purchasing new parts.
wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove beside it (see illustration). Check the 15 Apply clean engine oil to the pin, insert it
deposits from the pistons; the piston material clearance at three or four locations around the into the piston and check for freeplay by
is soft and will be eroded away by the wire groove. Be sure to use the correct ring for rocking the pin back-and-forth (see
brush. each groove; they are different. If the illustration). If the pin is loose, new pistons
8 Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to clearance is greater then specified, new and possibly new pins must be installed.
remove any carbon deposits from the ring pistons will have to be used when the engine 16 Refer to Section 15 and install the rings on
grooves. Be very careful to remove only the is reassembled. the pistons.
carbon deposits. Do not remove any metal 14 Check the piston-to-bore clearance by
anddo not nick or gouge the sides of the ring measuring the bore (see Section 13) and the
Installation
grooves. piston diameter. Make sure that the pistons Note: Install the pistons for cylinders 2 and 3
and cylinders are correctly matched. Measure first.
the piston across the skirt on the thrust faces 17 Install the pistons in their original
HAYNES If a ring groove cleaning tool locations with the arrows pointing to the front

m is not available, a piece at a 90° angle to the piston pin, about 13 mm


(1/2-inch) up from the bottom of the skirt (see of the engine. Lubricate the pins and the rod
broken off the old ring will
illustration). Subtract the piston diameter bores with clean engine oil. Install new circlips
do the job
from the bore diameter to obtain the in the grooves in the inner sides of the pistons
clearance. If it is greater than specified, the (don’t reuse the old circlips). Push the pins
9 Once the deposits have been removed, cylinders will have to be rebored and new into position from the opposite side and install
clean the pistons with solvent and dry them oversized pistons and rings installed. If the new circlips. Compress the circlips only
thoroughly. Make sure the oil return holes appropriate precision measuring tools are not enough for them to fit in the piston. Make
belowthe oil ring grooves are clear. available, the piston-to-cylinder clearances sure the clips are properly seated in the
10 If the pistons are not damaged or worn can be obtained, though not quite as grooves.
excessively and if the cylinders are not accurately, using feeler gauge stock. Feeler
rebored, new pistons will not be necessary.
Normal piston wear appears as even, vertical
wear on the thrust surfaces of the piston and
gauge stock comes in 12-inch lengths and
various thicknesses and is generally available
at auto parts stores. To check the clearance,
15 Piston rings - installation
|
slight looseness of the top ring in its groove.
New piston rings, on the other hand, should
select a 0.07 mm (0.002 inch) feeler gauge
and slip it into the cylinder along with the
I
always be used when an engine is rebuilt. appropriate piston. The cylinder should be 1 Before installing the new piston rings, the
11 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks upside down and the piston must be ring end gaps must be checked.
around the skirt, at the pin bosses and at the positioned exactly as it normally would be. 2 Lay out the pistons and the new ring sets
ring lands (see illustration). Place the feeler gauge between the piston so the rings will be matched with the same
12 Look for scoring and scuffing on the piston and cylinder during the end gap
thrust faces of the skirt, holes in the piston measurement procedure and engine
crown and burned areas at the edge of the assembly.
crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the
engine may have been suffering from
overheating and/or abnormal combustion,
which caused excessively high operating
temperatures. The oil pump and cooling
system should be checked thoroughly. A hole
inthe piston crown, an extreme to be sure, is
an indication that abnormal combustion (pre­
ignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the
edge of the piston crown are usually evidence
of spark knock (detonation). If any of the
above problems exist, the causes must be
corrected or the damage will occur again. 14.14 Measure the piston diameter with a
13 Measure the piston ring-to-groove micrometer
clearance by laying a new piston ring in the 1 5 mm (13/64-inch) from bottom of piston 14.15 Slip the pin into the piston and try to
ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge in 2 Piston diameter wiggle it back-and-forth
2*24 Engine, clutch and transmission

___ _____________________
15.3 Measure the piston ring end gap with a feeler gauge 15.5 Clamp a file in a vise and file the ring ends (from the ou
in only) to enlarge the gap slightly

7 Repeat the procedure for each ring that


be installed in the first cylinder and for
ring in the remaining cylinder. Rememl
keep the rings, pistons and cylinders mate
up.
8 Once the ring end gaps have
checked/corrected, the rings can be ins!
on the pistons.
9 The oil control ring (lowest on the pisti
installed first. It is composed of three sepi
components. Slip the expander into
groove, then install the upper side rail
illustrations). Do not use a piston
installation tool on the oil ring side railsi
15.9a When installing the oil ring 15.9b Do NOT use a ring installation tool
they may be damaged. Instead, place one
expander, make sure the ends don’t to install the oil ring side rails of the side rail into the groove between
overlap spacer expander and the ring land. Ho!
3 Insert the top (No. 1) ring into the bottom of 5 If the gap is too small, it must be enlarged firmly in place and slide a finger around
the first cylinder and square it up with the or the ring ends may come in contact with piston while pushing the rail into the gri
cylinder walls by pushing it in with the top of each other during engine operation, which Next, install the lower side rail in the
the piston. The ring should be about one inch can cause serious damage. The end gap can manner.
above the bottom edge of the cylinder. To be increased by filing the ring ends very 10 After the three oil ring components I
measure the end gap, slip a feeler gauge carefully with a fine file (see illustration). been installed, check to make sure that I
between the ends of the ring (see illustration) When performing this operation, file only from the upper and lower side rails can be tun
and compare the measurement to the the outside in. smoothly in the ring groove.
Specifications. 6 Excess end gap is not critical unless it is 11 Install the no. 2 (middle) ring in the i
4 If the gap is larger or smaller than specified, greater than 0.040 in (1 mm). Again, double groove on the piston (see illustration),
double check to make sure that you have the check to make sure you have the correct rings sure that the “ R” identification mark is fad
correct rings before proceeding. for your engine. up (see illustration). And don’t mix up theI

15.11b Don’t confuse the top ring with the second (middle) ring
15.11a Install the second (middle) ring into
the middle groove in the piston 1 Top ring 2 Middle (second) ring 3 “R” identification mark
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*25

and middle rings. They can be readily


distinguished by their different cross-
section shapes. Finally, don’t expand the ring
any more than is necessary to slide it into
place.
12 Install the no. 1 (top) ring in the same
manner. Again, make sure the identifying
markis facing up.
13 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
piston and rings. Be very careful not to
confuse the no. 1 and no. 2 rings.
14 Once the rings have been properly
installed, stagger the end gaps, including
those of the oil ring side rails (see illu s­
tration).

16 Oil pan - %
removal and installation
S 15.14 Ring gap positioning details
1 Top ring 3 Oil ring side rails 5 Arrowhead mark (must
Removal
2 Second (middle ring) 4 Oil ring expander point toward front of
Note: The oil pan can be removed with the
engine)
enginein the frame.
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. Be sure to wash the screen before installing Chapter’s Specifications, using a criss-cross
2 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). the pick-up. pattern.
3 Remove the exhaust system (see 8 Position a new gasket on the oil pan. A thin 9 The remainder of installation is the reverse
Chapter 4). film of RTV sealant can be used to hold the of removal. Install a new filter and fill the
4 Remove the banjo bolts that attach the oil gasket in place. Install the oil pan and bolts, crankcase with oil (see Chapter 1), then run
cooler lines to the oil pan (see Chapter 3). tightening the bolts to the torque listed in this the engine and check for leaks.
5 Remove the oil pan bolts (s e e illu s tr a tio n )
anddetach the pan from the crankcase.
6 Remove all traces of old gasket material
fromthe mating surfaces of the oil pan and
crankcase.
Installation
7 Inspect the screen on the oil pick-up tube
(see illustration). The presence of chunks of
metal could indicate serious wear or damage
In the bottom end or gearbox (pieces of
“casting flash” and gasket look worse than
they are; they’re typical on a new engine).
Inspect the O-rings on the pick-up tube and
the oil pipe (see illu s t r a t io n s ) . If they’re 16.5 To remove the oil pan, remove these 16.7a Inspect the screen on the oil pick-up
cracked, torn or deteriorated, replace them. bolts (arrowed) tube for signs of engine damage

16.7b To remove the oil pick-up tube, simply pull it straight off. 16.7c To remove the oil pipe, simply pull it straight off. Inspect
Inspect the O-ring (arrowed) the O-rings (arrowed)
2»26 Engine, clutch and transmission

stay within the relief valve opening pressure


17 Oil pump - pressure check, ^ listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the
removal, inspection and Sjjv pressure is too high, a relief valve is stuck
installation closed. To check it, see Section 18.
4 If the pressure is lower than the standard,
either a relief valve is stuck open, the oil pump
Check is faulty, or there is other engine damage.
Warning: If the oil passage plug Begin diagnosis by checking the relief valves

A is removed when the engine is


hot, hot oil will drain out - wait
until the engine is cold before
beginning this check (it must be cold to
(see Section 18), then the oil pump (see
below). If those items check out okay, chances
are the bearing oil clearances are excessive
and the engine needs to be overhauled.
perform the relief valve opening pressure 5 If the pressure reading is in the desired range,
check, anyway). allow the engine to warm up to normal
17.2 Remove the b olt from the end oi
Note: The oil pump can be removed with the operating temperature and check the pressure
main oil passage, attach an oil gauge
engine in the frame. again, at the specified engine rpm. Compare
sta rt the engine
1 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). your findings with this Chapter’s Specifications.
2 Remove the plug at the bottom of the 6 If the pressure is significantly lower than 9 Remove the oil pump gear snap-ring
crankcase on the right-hand side and hook up specified, check the relief valve and the oil illustration).
Kawasaki's oil pressure gauge and adapter pump. 10 Remove the oil pump gear
(tool nos. 57001-164 and 57001-1278, illustration).
respectively) or a suitable equivalent gauge Rem oval 11 Remove the oil pump gear roll pin
and adapter (see illustration). 7 Place the bike on its centerstand. illustration).
3 Start the engine and watch the gauge while 8 Remove the clutch cover and clutch 12 Remove the oil pump cover
varying the engine rpm. The pressure should assembly (see Section 20). illustration).

17.9 Remove the oil pum p gear snap-ring 17.10 Remove the oil pum p gear

17.11 Remove the oil pum p gear drive pin 17.12 To remove the oil pum p cover, remove these three!
(arrowed)
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*27

17.13 Remove the oil pump outer rotors 17.14a Remove the oil pump shaft (A) and 17.14b Don’t lose this pin that locks the
(A) and the oil pump housing (B) inner rotors (B); don’t lose the inner rotors to the shaft
dowel pins (C)

13 Remove the oil pump outer rotors and the the oil pan (see Section 16) and make sure the b) When installing the inner rotors and shaft,
oil pump housing (see illustration). pick-up screen isn’t clogged (see illustration the projection on the end o f the shaft
14 Remove the oil pump shaft, inner rotors 16.7a). must engage the notch in the water pump
andthe roll pin (see illustrations). shaft (see Chapter 3).
Installation c) Don't forget to install the roll pin for the
Inspection 16 Installation is basically the reverse of outer rotors before installing the pump
15 Wash all the components in solvent, then removal (see illustration). However, there are cover.
drythem off. Check the pump cover, housing, a few things that must be done a certain way: d) Before installing the pump cover, pack
rotors and shaft for scoring and wear. a) Don't forget to install the roll pin before the cavities between the rotors with
Kawasaki doesn’t publish clearance installing the inner rotors. When installing petroleum jelly to ensure that the pump
Specifications, so if any damage or uneven or the shaft and inner rotors, the roll pin develops suction quickly and begins oil
excessive wear is evident, replace the pump. must be horizontal, or it will fall out (if the circulation as soon as the engine is
Ifyou're rebuilding the engine, it’s a good idea inner rotor roll pin is horizontal, the outer started.
toinstall a new oil pump anyway. Finally, if roll pin will also be horizontal - they're in e) Tighten the pump cover screws securely.
yousee any sign of wear, be sure to remove the same plane). f) When installing the pump gear, the gear
hub must face in (toward the engine). And
don’t forget the gear drive pin!
g) If the pump gear circlip has lost its tensile
“memory" (its ability to spring back to its
original shape), replace i t Using a weak
circlip could cause serious damage to the
engine if the gear comes off.

18 Oil pressure relief valves - %>


removal, inspection and
installation ^

Rem oval
1 Remove the oil pan (see Section 16).
2 There are two oil pressure relief valves: The
valve screwed into the pan (see illustration)
is for the oil cooler and transmission; the valve

1 Snap-ring 5 Oil pump cover 9 Dowel pin (2) for oil pump
2 Gear (hub must face in 6 Outer rotors housing and cover
during reassembly) 7 Roll pin for outer 10 Inner rotors
3 Roll pin for gear rotors 11 Roll pin for inner rotors 18.2a The oil pressure relief valve
4 Oil pump cover retaining 8 Oil pump housing 12 Shaft (arrowed) for the oil cooler and
screw (2) transmission is screwed to the oil pan
2*28 Engine, clutch and transmission

18.2b The oil pressure relief valve (arrowed) fo r the main oil 19.5 Align the slots in the lock wheel and adjuster and pull <
passage is screw ed into the crank web cable

screwed into the crank web (see illustration) compound to the threads of the valve, install it ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks' at the beginnin
is for the main oil passage. Both of these into the crank web or oil pan, and tighten it to this Manual) and turn the threaded adjusts
valves are normally trouble-free; their only the torque listed in this C hapter’s the way in until it stops.
function is to prevent excessive oil pressure Specifications. 5 Align the slots in both the lock wheel i
(which can cause seals to leak) in the event an 6 The remainder of installation is the reverse the adjuster so that they’re both fa
oil passage becomes clogged. However, if of removal. forward and pull out the cable
you’re installing a new oil pan, or planning to illustration).
soak the engine bottom end or pan in some 6 To disconnect the clutch cable fromj
sort of cleaning solution, the relief valve(s) clutch lever, align the cable with the slot In
must be removed. When installing either relief 19 Clutch cable - replacement bottom of the lever and disengage the <
valve, be sure to coat the threads with a non­ end from the lever (see illustration).
locking thread agent and tighten it to the 7 Release the other end of the cable fromI
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. release lever (see illustration).
Inspection 1 Place the bike on its centerstand. 8 Before removing the cable from the I
3 Clean the valve with solvent and dry it, 2 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). tape the lower end of the new cable I
using compressed air if available. 3 To put some slack in the cable, pull back upper end of the old cable. Slowly pu
4 Using a wood or plastic tool, depress the the dust boot and fully loosen the adjuster lower end of the old cable out, guidin
steel ball inside the valve and see if it moves nuts at the bracket just in front of the clutch new cable down into position. Using
smoothly. Make sure it returns to its seat lever on the right side of the engine (see method will ensure the cable is rou
completely. If it doesn't, replace it with a new illu stra tio n in ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the correctly.
one (don’t attempt to disassemble and repair it). beginning of this Manual). 9 Lubricate the cable (see Chapter 1).
4 To put some more slack in the cable, 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Installation loosen the knurled lock wheel at the clutch 11 Adjust the cable (see ‘Daily (pre-i
5 Apply a non-hardening thread locking lever on the handlebar (see illu s tra tio n in checks’ at the beginning of this Manual).

19.6 To disconnect the cable from the lever, pull it out o f the slot, 19.7 To disconnect the cable from the lever, push the lever
then slide the end out of the lever forw ard and disengage the cable
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*29

20.4 To remove the clutch cover, remove 20.5 Remove the bolts and springs 20.6 Remove the clutch friction and steel
these bolts (arrowed) (arrowed), then remove the spring plate plates
and pushrod {center arrow)

20.7a Hold th e c lu t c h h u b w it h a c lu tc h
holder to o l a n d b r e a k th e c lu t c h h u b n u t
lo o s e

20 Clutch - removal, inspection


and installation ^
I * H16190

Note: The clutch can be removed with the 20.7b Homemade version of the Kawasaki clutch holding tool
engine in the frame.
Removal 1243, or a suitable equivalent) to prevent the from some steel strap, bent at the ends and
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. Remove the clutch housing from turning (see illustration), bolted together in the middle (see
lower fairing (see Chapter 8). An alternative to this tool can be fabricated illustration).
2 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Completely loosen the rear adjustment nuts
on the clutch cable at its bracket on the clutch TOOL
cover. Pull the cable out of the bracket, then
detach the cable end from the lever (see
Section 19).
4 Remove the clutch cover bolts (s e e
illustration) and take off the cover. If the
cover is stuck, tap around its perimeter with a
soft-face hammer.
5 Remove the clutch springs and bolts (s e e
illustration). To prevent the assembly from
turning, thread one of the cover mounting
bolts into the case and wedge a screwdriver
between the bolt and the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch spring plate, bearing and Another way to hold the clutch is to drill holes in a friction plate and a steel plate and
pushrod. bolt them together as they would be installed. Slip the bolted plates into their
6 Remove the friction and steel plates from installed positions; the clutch hub will be locked to the clutch housing. Shift the
the clutch housing (see illu s tr a tio n ) . transmission into a low gear and have an assistant apply and hold the rear brake.
7 Remove the clutch hub nut, using a Unscrew the nut and remove it
special holding tool (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-
2*30 Engine, clutch and transmission

20.8a Remove the thrust washer 20.8b Remove the clutch hub

20.8c Remove the large washer 20.8d To separate the sleeve from the housing, install a couplei
bolts as shown, screw them in and pull it out

20.8e Remove the clutch housing 20.8f Remove the large washer
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*31

20.8g Remove the small washer 20.9 Inspect the clutch hub splines (arrowed) for wear and
distortion

8 Remove the thrust washer, clutch hub,


large washer, clutch housing, sleeve, large
washer and small washer (see illustrations).

Inspection
9 Examine the splines on both the inside and
the outside of the clutch hub (see
illustration). If any wear is evident, replace
thehub with a new one.
10 Measure the free length of the clutch
springs (see illustration) and compare the
results to this Chapter’s Specifications. If the
springs have sagged, or if cracks are noted,
replace them with new ones as a set.
20.10 Measure the clutch spring free 20.11 Measure the thickness of the friction
11 If the lining material of the friction plates
length plates
smells burnt or if it is glazed, new parts are
required. If the metal clutch plates are scored glass) and check for warpage by trying to slip They can be cleaned up with a file if the
or discolored, they must be replaced with new a 0.3 mm (0.012-inch) feeler gauge between deformation is not severe.
ones. Measure the thickness of each friction the flat surface and the plate (see 14 Check the edges of the slots in the clutch
plate (see illustration) and compare the illustration). Do this at several places around housing for indentations made by the friction
results to this Chapter’s Specifications. the plate’s circumference. If the feeler gauge plate tabs (see illustration). If the
Replace with new parts any friction plates that can be slipped under the plate, it is warped indentations are deep they can prevent clutch
arenear the wear limit. and should be replaced with a new one. release, so the housing should be replaced
12 Lay the metal plates, one at a time, on a 13 Check the tabs on the friction plates for with a new one. If the indentations can be
perfectly flat surface (such as a piece of plate excessive wear and mushroomed edges. removed easily with a file, the life of the

20.12 Check plates for warpage by trying to slide a feeler gauge 20.14 Inspect the edges of the slots and the bushing surface for
between each plate and a flat surface heavy wear (arrowed)
2*32 Engine, clutch and transmission

20.16 An exploded view of the clutch assembly


7 Oil filler cap 7 Clutch noise damper 11 Clutch release shaft oil 16 Spring plate 23 Clutch hub
2 O-ring bolt (9) seal 17 Spring plate bearing 24 Large washer
3 Clutch cover bolt (10) 8 Clutch noise damper 12 Clutch release shaft 18 Pushrod 25 Clutch housing
4 Clutch cover plate needle bearings (2) 19 Friction plate 26 Sleeve
5 Clutch cover gasket 9 Clutch noise damper 13 Oil level window seal 20 Steel plate 27 Large washer
6 Clutch cover 10 Clutch release shaft 14 Spring bolt (5) 21 Clutch hub nut 28 Small washer
positioning dowels (2) 15 Spring (5) 22 Hub nut washer

housing can be prolonged to an extent. Also, 16 Clean all traces of old gasket material ever need replacement; if either one is wo
check the primary gear teeth for cracks, chips from the clutch cover. If the seal for the oil damaged, take the cover to an automoti
and excessive wear. If the gear is worn or level window (see illustration) has been motorcycle machine shop and have th
damaged, the clutch housing must be leaking, pry out the old seal and install a new pressed out and new ones installed. FinallyJ
replaced with a new one. Check the bearing one. If the release shaft seal has been leaking, you’re planning to install a new cover, re
for score marks, scratches and excessive pull out the release shaft, pry out the seal and the noise damper from the old covers
wear. drive in a new seal with a hammer and a small install it on the new cover.
15 Check the bearing journal on the socket with an outside diameter slightly
transmission mainshaft for score marks, heat smaller than that of the seal. While the release Installation
discoloration and evidence of excessive wear. shaft is removed, inspect the two small needle 17 Installation is basically the reven
Check the clutch spring plate for wear and bearings that support the shaft at each end. removal (see illustration 20.16), with I
damage. It’s unlikely that either of these bearings will following points:
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*33

21.4a Grasp the shaft, push the spring-loaded mechanism arm


toward the shaft (in the direction of the arrow) to disengage the
20.20 Make sure the tangs on the last friction plate fit into these mechanism from the shift drum ...
special grooves in the clutch housing Arrow on the right points to the gear positioning lever
18 Be sure to lubricate all bearing and friction 22 Install the clutch cover and bolts, using a Remove the shift lever, engine sprocket cover
surfaces with engine oil to protect them when new gasket. Tighten the bolts, in a criss-cross and the engine sprocket (see Chapter 7).
the engine is started for the first time after pattern, to the torque listed in this Chapter’s 3 Remove the clutch (see Section 20).
1 reassembly. Specifications. 4 With the shift shaft (and therefore the shift
19 Use one of the holding techniques 23 Connect the clutch cable to the release drum) in the first gear position, grasp the end
described in Step 7 to prevent the hub from lever and adjust the freeplay (see ‘Daily (pre­ of the shift shaft, push the spring-loaded shift
turning while tightening the hub nut to the ride) checks’ at the beginning of this Manual). mechanism arm toward the shift shaft, then
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 24 Fill the crankcase with the recommended pull the external shift mechanism and shift
20 Coat the clutch friction plates with engine type and amount of engine oil (see Chapter 1). shaft out (see illustrations). Remove the
I oil and install the plates, starting with a friction 25 Install the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). retaining bolt for the gear positioning lever
plate and alternating them with steel plates. and remove the lever and spring.
There are seven friction plates and six steel Caution: Don’t pull either shift rod out of
plates (Therefore, the last plate installed 21 Shift shaft/external shift the crankcase - the shift forks will fall into
should also be a friction plate - if it isn’t, mechanism - removal, the oil pan, and the upper and lower
you've got them out of sequence - check halves of the crankcase will have to be
inspection and installation ^
your work). Make sure the last friction plate separated to reinstall them.
Is installed as shown (see illustration), Inspection
with its tangs in the groove on the clutch Removal 5 Check the shift shaft for bends and damage
housing. 1 Set the bike on its centerstand. Drain the to the splines. If the shaft is bent or the shift
21 Lubricate the pushrod with moly grease engine oil (see Chapter 1). lever splines are damaged, replace the shift
and install it through the spring plate. Mount 2 Turn the shift lever to the first-gear position shaft/external shift mechanism.
the spring plate to the clutch assembly and and leave it there. Note: Don’t rotate the shift 6 Check the condition of the return spring for
Install the springs and bolts, tightening them shaft during this procedure or yo u ’ll have to the shift mechanism arm and check the pawl
to the torque listed in this Chapter’s find first gear again before you can remove the spring (see illustration). If either spring is
Specifications in a criss-cross pattern. shift shaft and external shift mechanism. cracked or distorted, replace it.

21.6 Check the condition of:


1 Return spring for the shift mechanism arm
21.4b . . . and pull out the shift shaft and external shift 2 Return spring for the shift shaft
mechanism 3 Return spring for gear positioning lever
2*34 Engine, clutch and transmission

7 Check the shift mechanism arm for cracks,


distortion and wear. If any of these conditions
are found, replace the shift shaft and external 21.11 Installation details of the gear
shift mechanism. positioning lever assembly
8 Check the collar and spring for the gear Flanged collar (installed flat against
positioning lever. If either part is cracked or raised boss on case, with hub side
distorted, replace it. projecting through lever)
9 Check the condition of the shift shaft seals Gear positioning lever
and the oil level window seal in the clutch Return spring (installed over boss,
cover (see Section 20). If they have been between case and collar; both ends of
leaking, drive them out with a hammer and spring face to the rear, inner end flat
punch. New seals can be installed by driving against case projection, outer end
them in with a socket. hooked around outer face of lever)
Retaining bolt
Installation
10 Slide the external shift mechanism into
place, push in the shift mechanism arm to
clear the shift drum and push the shift shaft all Chapter 9). Note: The cover has to come the transmission input shaft if you're only
the way through the case until the splined end o ff for everything, but the alternator rotor servicing the crankshaft.
comes out the other side. Make sure the shift can remain installed on the crankshaft if f) Shift shaft/external shift mechanism (see
mechanism arm and pawl springs are you’re only servicing the transmission. Section 21).
positioned correctly. Starter motor, starter idler gear and starter g) Oil filter (see Chapter 1), oil pan and oil
11 Install the gear positioning lever return clutch (see Chapter 9). Note: The starter pump (see Sections 16 and 17).
spring, collar, lever and bolt (see illustration). clutch must come off if you’re servicing the h) Cam chain guides (see Section 27).
Make sure the spring is positioned correctly. crankshaft, but can remain on the crank if
you're only servicing the transmission. Disassembly
12 Install the clutch and clutch cover (see
Section 20). d) Timing rotor and pick-up coil (see 4 Remove the lower crankcase bolts (6
13 Install the engine sprocket and chain, Chapter 5). Note: The timing rotor must bolts first), then remove the upper crankca:
engine sprocket cover and the shift lever (see come off if you’re servicing the crank, but bolts (see illustrations).
Chapter 7). can remain on the crank if you’re only 5 Separate the crankcase halves (see |
14 Add engine oil (see Chapter 1). servicing the transmission. illustration). If they’re stuck, carefully pry tl
Clutch cover and clutch (see Section 20). case halves apart by inserting a pryb:
Note: The cover has to come off for between suitable bosses or projections
22 Crankcase - ^ everything, but the clutch can remain on illustration).
disassembly and reassembly

1 To examine and repair or replace the


crankshaft, connecting rods, bearings, and/or
transmission components, the engine must be
removed (see Section 5) and the crankcase
must be split into two parts.
2 If the crankcase is being separated to
remove the crankshaft, remove the cylinder
head, cylinder block and pistons (see
Sections 10, 13 and 14).
3 Before splitting the cases, remove the
following components:
a) Coolant hoses, pipes and water pump 22.4a Lower crankcase bolts (arrowed); 22.4b Don’t forget these three bolts
(see Chapter 3). remove the 6 mm bolts (the ones along the (arrowed) inside the engine
b) Alternator cover and alternator rotor (see front) first

22.4c Upper crankcase bolts (arrowed) 22.5a Separate the crankcase halves 22.5b If the crankcase halves are!
together, lever them apart with a prybarc
large screwdriver
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*35

22.8 An exploded view of the crankcase and crankshaft assembly


Refer to Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter for torque settings relating to components T1 to T8

Caution: Do NOT try to stick a prybar 9 Pour some engine oil over the transmission
between the gasket mating surfaces of the gears, the crankshaft main bearings and the
casehalves or you will damage their shift drum. Don’t get any oil on the crankcase
sealing ability. mating surface.
8 Remove the crankshaft (see Section 25), 10 Apply a thin, even bead of Kawasaki Bond
shift drum and forks (see Section 29) and liquid gasket (part no. 92104-1003) to the
transmission shafts (see Section 28). indicated areas of the crankcase mating
Reassembly surfaces (see illustration). Also apply RTV
sealant to the areas near the ends of the
7 Remove all traces of sealant from the
crankshaft seal areas (lay it over the Kawasaki
crankcase mating surfaces. Be careful not to
Bond).
letany old sealant fall into the case.
8 Make sure the four dowel pins are in place Caution: Don’t apply an excessive amount
In their holes in the mating surfaces of the of either type of sealant, as it will ooze out
crankcase halves - two in the upper half, two when the case halves are assembled and 22.10 Apply Kawasaki Bond liquid gasket
inthe lower half (see illustration). may obstruct oil passages. to the shaded areas of the mating surfaces
2*36 Engine, clutch and transmission

22.12 Make sure the oil return hose (1) is routed properly through 22.13 Bolt tightening sequence for bolts in lower crankcase half
the upper crankcase half (2) and through its hole (3) in the lower (do the larger, 8 mm, bolts first)
crankcase half (4)

11 Check the position of the shift drum - 14 In two steps, tighten the larger (8 mm) shift lever on the shift shaft and, while turning
make sure it’s in the neutral position (see bolts, in the sequence embossed on the case the output shaft, shift the transmission
Section 29). (also indicated in illustration 22.13) to the through the gears, first through sixth, then
12 Carefully place the upper crankcase half torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. back to first. If the transmission doesn't shift
onto the lower crankcase half. While doing Then tighten the smaller (6 mm) bolts to the properly, the case will have to be separated
this, make sure the shift forks fit into their gear torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. again to correct the problem. Also make surfc
grooves, and the oil return hose is properly 15 Turn the case over and install the upper the crankshaft turns freely.
routed through its hole in the lower crankcase crankcase half bolts (see illustration) until 17 Apply high temperature grease to the lipsof
half (see illustration). they’re all snug. Then tighten them evenly and the output shaft oil seal, press the seal into its
13 Install the bolts in the lower crankcase gradually, in a criss-cross pattern, to the bore in the crankcase until the face of the seal is
half (see illustration) and tighten them so torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. flush with the case halves (see illustration).
they are just snug. The two longer 8 mm bolts 16 Turn the main drive shaft and the output 18 The remainder of installation is the reverse
go into the number 1 and number 3 holes. shaft to make sure they turn freely. Install the of removal.

22.15 Tighten the bolts evenly and gradually in a criss-cross 22.17 Install the seal with a socket with an outer diameter sligl
pattern to the specified torque smaller than the diameter of the seal
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*37

oil and from there into the bearings. Metal 7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine
23 Crankcase components - ^ chips from machining operations and normal assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
inspection and servicing S engine wear are often present. Abrasives are Tight fitting bearings which leave insufficient
sometimes left in engine components after bearing oil clearances result in oil starvation.
reconditioning operations such as cylinder Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a
1After the crankcases have been separated honing, especially when parts are not bearing insert result in high spots on the
andthe crankshaft, shift drum and forks and thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning bearing which lead to failure.
transmission components removed, the methods. Whatever the source, these foreign 8 To avoid bearing problems, clean all parts
crankcases should be cleaned thoroughly objects often end up imbedded in the soft thoroughly before reassembly, double check all
with new solvent and dried with compressed bearing material and are easily recognized. bearing clearance measurements and lubricate
air. All oil passages should be blown out with Large particles will not imbed in the bearing the new bearings with engine assembly lube or
compressed air and all traces of old gasket and will score or gouge the bearing and moly-based grease during installation.
sealant should be removed from the mating journal. The best prevention for this cause of
surfaces. bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly
Caution: Be very careful not to nick or and keep everything spotlessly clean during 25 Crankshaft and main ^
gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or engine reassembly. Frequent and regular oil bearings - removal, inspection 5
leaks will result - refer to Tools and W and filter changes are also recommended. and installation ^
Checkboth crankcase sections very 5 Lack of lubrication or lubrication
carefully for cracks and other damage. breakdown has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
Removal
2 Check the ball and needle bearings in the
case. If they don’t turn smoothly, drive them overloading (which squeezes the oil from the 1 Before removing the crankshaft check the
out with a bearing driver or a socket having an bearing face) and oil leakage or throw off endplay. This can be done with a dial indicator
outside diameter slightly smaller than that of (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil mounted in-line with the crankshaft, or feeler
thebearing. Before installing them, allow them pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to gauges inserted between the no. 2 crankcase
10sit inthe freezer overnight, and about fifteen- lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages main journal (see illustration). Compare your
minutes before installation, place the case half will also starve a bearing and destroy it. When findings with this Chapter’s Specifications. If
inan oven, set to about 200-degrees F, and lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing the endplay is excessive, the case halves
allow it to heat up. The bearings are an failure, the bearing material is wiped or must be replaced. Crankshaft removal is a
interference fit, and this will ease installation. extruded from the steel backing of the simple matter of lifting it out of place once the
Warning: Before heating the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the crankcase has been separated and the starter

A case, wash it thoroughly with


soap and water so no explosive
fumes are present. Also, don’t
point where the steel backing and the journal
turn blue from overheating.
6 Riding habits can have a definite effect on
motor clutch/secondary sprocket assembly
has been removed.
2 The main bearing inserts can be removed
use a flame to heat the case. bearing life. Full throttle low speed operation, from their saddles by pushing their centers to
3 If any damage is found that can’t be or lugging the engine, puts very high loads on the side, then lifting them out (see
repaired, replace the crankcase halves as a bearings, which tend to squeeze out the oil illustration). Keep the bearing inserts in
set. film. These loads cause the bearings to flex, order. The main bearing oil clearance should
which produces fine cracks in the bearing be checked, however, before removing the
face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bearing inserts (see Step 8).
24 Main and connecting rod material will loosen in pieces and tear away
bearings - general note
Inspection
from the steel backing. Short trip driving leads
to corrosion of bearings, as insufficient engine 3 Mark and remove the connecting rods from
heat is produced to drive off the condensed the crankshaft (see Section 26).
1 Even though main and connecting rod water and corrosive gases produced. These 4 Clean the crankshaft with solvent, using a
bearings are generally replaced with new ones products collect in the engine oil, forming acid rifle-cleaning brush to scrub out the oil
during the engine overhaul, the old bearings and sludge. As the oil is carried to the engine passages. If available, blow the crank dry with
Should be retained for close examination as bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the compressed air. Check the main and
they may reveal valuable information about bearing material. connecting rod journals for uneven wear,
thecondition of the engine. scoring and pits. Rub a penny across the
2 Bearing failure occurs mainly because of journal several times - if a journal picks up
lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or copper from the penny, it’s too rough.
other foreign particles, overloading the engine Replace the crankshaft.
and/or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of
bearing failure, it must be corrected before the
engine is reassembled to prevent it from
happening again.
3 When examining the bearings, remove the
main bearings from the case halves and the
rod bearings from the connecting rods and
caps and lay them out on a clean surface in
thesame general position as their location on
thecrankshaft journals. This will enable you to
match any noted bearing problems with the
corresponding side of the crankshaft journal.
4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in 25.1 Crankshaft endplay measurement
the engine during assembly or it may pass 1 Crankcase 3 No. 2 journal 25.2 To remove a main bearing insert,
through filters or breathers. It may get into the 2 Measure here push it sideways and lift it out
2*38 Engine, clutch and transmission

25.8 Lay the Plastigauge strips (arrowed) 25.10 Measure the w idth of the crushed 25.11 Location of the bearing insert col
on the journals, parallel to the crankshaft Plastigauge code
centerline

and lower the crankshaft into the upper half of measure the diameter of the cranK
the case. Cut five pieces of Plastigauge and journals with a micrometer (see illustra
lay them on the crankshaft main journals, and compare your findings with this Chapte
parallel with journal axis (see illustration). Specifications. Also, by measuring
9 Very carefully, guide the lower case half diameter at a number of points around (
down onto the upper case half. Install the journal’s circumference, you’ll be ableI
large (8 mm) bolts and tighten them, using the determine whether or not the journal is ou
recommended sequence, to the torque listed round. Take the measurement at each em
in this Chapter’s Specifications (see the journal, near the crank throu
Section 22). Don’t rotate the crankshaft! determine if the journal is tapered.
10 Now, remove the bolts and carefully lift 14 If any crank journal has worn downp
the lower case half off. Compare the width of the service limit, replace the crankshaft.
the crushed Plastigauge on each journal to 15 If the diameters of the journals aren't!
25.13 Measure the diameter of each the scale printed on the Plastigauge envelope than the service limit but differ from
crankshaft journal to obtain the main bearing oil clearance (see original markings on the crankshaft
illustration). Write down your findings, then illustration), apply new marks with a ha
5 Check the camshaft chain gear and the
remove all traces of Plastigauge from the and punch.
primary chain gear on the crankshaft for
journals, using your fingernail or the edge of a a) If the journal measures between 31.98
chipped teeth and other wear. If any
credit card. 31.992 mm (1.2602 to 1.2605 inches)
undesirable conditions are found, replace the
11 If the oil clearance falls into the specified don’t make any marks on the crank(thesi^
crankshaft. Check the chains as described in
range, no bearing replacement is required shouldn’t be any marks there, anywa;
Section 27.
6 Check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks (provided they are in good shape). If the b) If the journal measures between 31.9
and other damage. It should be magnafluxed clearance is between 0.038 mm (0.0015 inch) 32.000 mm (1.2605 to 1.2608 inchesj,
to reveal hidden cracks - a dealer service and the 0.070 mm (0.0028 inch) service limit, make a “ 1" mark on the crank in thee
department or motorcycle machine shop will and the bearings are excessively worn, replace indicated (if it's not already there).
handle the procedure. the old bearing inserts with new inserts that 16 Remove the main bearing inserts i
7 Set the crankshaft on V-blocks and check have blue paint marks (see illustration), then assemble the case halves (see Section!
the runout with a dial indicator touching the check the oil clearance once again. Always Using a telescoping gauge and a micron
center main journal, comparing your findings replace all of the inserts at the same time. measure the diameters of the main be
with this Chapter’s Specifications. If the 12 If the bearings are not excessively worn, bores, then compare the measurements«
runout exceeds the limit, replace the crank. the clearance can slightly exceed the the marks on the upper case half
standard clearance, as long as it isn’t greater illustration).
Main bearing selection than the maximum clearance or less than the a) If the bores measure between 36.000 to
8 To check the main bearing oil clearance, minimum clearance. 36.008 mm (1.4184 to 1.4187-inches),
clean off the bearing inserts (and reinstall 13 If the clearance is greater than the service there should be a “0" mark in the
them, if they’ve been removed from the case) limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, indicated areas.

25.15 Crankshaft main journal size marking locations (#1 mark or 25.16 . . . crankcase markings to determine insert size
no mark); use in conjunction with . . .
Engine, clutch and transmission 2»39

Main Bearing Insert Selection


Crankcase Main Crankshaft Main Crankshaft Bearing Insert*
Bearing Bore Journal Diameter
Diameter Mark Mark Size Color Part Number Journal Nos.
O 1 Brown 13034-1016 1, 2 ,5
13034-1066 3, 4 ,6
None 1 Black 13034-1017 1 ,2 , 5
O None 13034-1065 3, 4 ,6
None None Blue 13034-1018 1 ,2 , 5
13034-1064 3, 4 ,6
‘The bearing inserts for Nos. 1, 2, and 5 journals have an oil groove, respectively.

25.17 Main bearing insert size selection table

!)J If the bores measure between 36.009 to then install the bearing inserts in their webs in Specifications, that rod will have to be
36.016 mm (1.4187 to 1.4190-inches), the case (see illu stratio n). The bearing replaced with a new one.
there shouldn't be any marks in the inserts for all except the two middle journals 2 Using a center punch, mark the position of
Indicated areas. have oil grooves. When installing the each rod and cap, relative to its position on
17 Using the marks on the crank and the bearings, use your hands only - don’t tap the crankshaft (see illustration).
markson the case, determine the bearing sizes them into place with a hammer. 3 Unscrew the bearing cap nuts, separate the
required by referring to the accompanying 19 Lubricate the bearing inserts with engine cap from the rod, then detach the rod from
I selection chart (see illustration). assembly lube or moly-based grease. the crankshaft. If the cap is stuck, tap on the
20 Install the connecting rods, if they were ends of the rod bolts with a soft face hammer
Installation removed (see Section 26). to free them.
18 Separate the case halves once again. 21 Loop the camshaft chain over the 4 Separate the bearing inserts from the rods
Clean the bearing saddles in the case halves, crankshaft sprocket. and caps, keeping them in order so they can
22 Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. be reinstalled in their original locations. Wash
23 Assemble the case halves (see the parts in solvent and dry them with
Section 22) and make sure the crankshaft and compressed air, if available.
the transmission shafts turn freely.
Inspection
5 Check the connecting rods for cracks and
26 Connecting rods and ^ other obvious damage. Lubricate the piston
bearings - removal, inspection ^ pin for each rod, install it in the proper rod and
and installation ^ check for play (see illustration). If it is loose,
replace the connecting rod and/or the pin.
6 Refer to Section 24 and examine the
Removal connecting rod bearing inserts. If they are
1 Before removing the connecting rods from scored, badly scuffed or appear to have been
the crankshaft, measure the side clearance of seized, new bearings must be installed.
25.18 Make sure the tabs on the bearing each rod with a feeler gauge (see Always replace the bearings in the connecting
Inserts fit into the notches in the crank illu stratio n). If the clearance on any rod is rods as a set. If they are badly damaged,
web greater than that listed in this Chapter’s check the corresponding crankshaft journal.

26.1 Check the connecting rod side 26.2 Using a hammer and punch, make 26.5 Check the piston pin and connecting
clearance with a feeler gauge matching marks in the connecting rod and rod bore fo r excessive wear by rocking the
its cap pin back-and-forth
2*40 Engine, clutch and transmission

journal with a micrometer and compare y


findings with this Chapter’s Specification
Also, by measuring the diameter at a number
of points around the journal’s circumferen:
you’ll be able to determine whether or not t'
journal is out-of-round. Take th
measurement at each end of the journal to
determine if the journal is tapered.
17 If any journal has worn down past the
/ \ : Crankpin Diameter Marks, 'O " mark or no mark service limit, replace the crankshaft.
18 If the diameter of the journal isn’t less th'
the service limit but differs from the origin
markings on the crankshaft (see illustration),
26.18 The marking locations for the connecting rod journal sizes; used in conjunction
apply new marks with a hammer and punch,
w ith . . .
a) If the journal measures between 32.984
of the journal, then install the rod cap and 33.992 mm (1.2996 to 1.2999-inches),
HAYNES Evidence of extreme heat, nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in don’t make any marks on the crank (there
such as discoloration of the this Chapter's Specifications, but don’t allow shouldn’t be one there anyway).
bearing inserts, indicates the connecting rod to rotate at all. On E b) If the journal measures between 32.993 to,
that lubrication failure has models, tighten the nuts to the torque value 33.000 mm (1.2999 to 1.3002-inches),
occurred. Be sure to thoroughly check listed for ‘used’ nuts. make a "0” mark on the crank in the ares
the oil pump and pressure relief valve 13 Unscrew the nuts and remove the indicated (if not already there).
as well as all oil holes and passages connecting rod and cap from the journal, 19 Remove the bearing inserts from
before reassembling the engine. being very careful not to disturb the connecting rod and cap, then assemble the
Plastigauge. Compare the width of the cap to the rod. Tighten the nuts to the tor
7 Have the rods checked for tw ist and crushed Plastigauge to the scale printed in the listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
bending at a dealer service department or Plastigauge envelope (see illustration 25.10) 20 Using a telescoping gauge and
other motorcycle repair shop. to determine the bearing oil clearance. micrometer, measure the inside diameter
14 If the clearance is within the range listed in the connecting rod (see illustration). 7
Bearing selection this Chapter’s Specifications and the bearings mark on the connecting rod (if any) shou
8 If the bearings and journals appear to be in are in perfect condition, they can be reused. If coincide with the measurement, but if
good condition, check the oil clearances as the clearance is between 0.059 mm (0.0023- doesn’t, make a new mark (see illustration).
follows: inch) and the service limit 0.10 mm (0.0039- a) If the inside diameter measures between
9 Start with the rod for the number one inch), replace the bearing inserts with inserts 36.000 to 36.008 mm (1.4184 to 1.4187
cylinder. Wipe the bearing inserts and the that have blue paint marks, then check the oil inches), don't make any mark on the rod
connecting rod and cap clean, using a lint- clearance once again. Always replace all of (there shouldn’t be any there anyway).
free cloth. the inserts at the same time. b) If the inside diameter measures between
10 Install the bearing inserts in the connecting 15 The clearance might be slightly greater 36.009 to 36.016 mm (1.4187 to 1.4190-
rod and cap. Make sure the tab on the bearing than the standard clearance, but that doesn’t inches), make a 0 mark on the rod (it
engages with the notch in the rod or cap. matter, as long as it isn’t greater than the should already be there).
11 Wipe off the connecting rod journal with a maximum clearance or less than the minimum 21 By referring to the accompanying ch'
lint-free cloth. Lay a strip of Plastigauge clearance. (see illustration), select the corr
across the top of the journal, parallel with the 16 If the clearance is greater than the service connecting rod bearing inserts.
journal axis (see illustration 25.8). limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, 22 Repeat the bearing selection procedure
12 Position the connecting rod on the bottom measure the diameter of the connecting rod for the remaining connecting rods.

26.20a . . . the mark (or no mark) on the connecting rod (arrowed) 26.20b Measure the diameter of the connecting rod with i
to determine insert size telescoping gauge, then measure the gauge
The letter is a weight grade mark
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*41

Big End Bearing Insert Selection

Con-Rod Big Crankpin Bearing Insert


End Bore Dia­ Diameter
meter Marking Marking Size Color Part Number
None O Brown 13034-1069
None None Black 13034-1068
0 O
0 None Blue 13034-1067

26.21 Connecting rod bearing insert selection table 27.6 To remove the rear cam chain guide, remove these two Allen
bolts from the crank web

Installation 26 Turn the rods on the crankshaft. If any of measure the length of twenty links, pin-to-pin
23 Wipe off the bearing inserts and them feel tight, tap on the bottom of the (see illustration). Compare your findings to
Ronnecting rods and caps. Install the inserts connecting rod caps with a hammer - this the length listed in this Chapter’s
itfntothe rods and caps, using your hands only, should relieve stress and free them up. If it Specifications.
■taking sure the tabs on the inserts engage doesn’t, recheck the bearing clearance. 8 Also check the chain for binding and
with the notches in the rods and caps. When 27 As a final step, recheck the connecting obvious damage.
fill theinserts are installed, lubricate them with rod side clearances (see Step 1). If the 9 If the twenty-link length is not as specified,
engine assembly lube or moly-based grease. clearances aren’t correct, find out why before or there is visible damage, replace the chain.
proceeding with engine assembly.
Don't get any lubricant on the mating surfaces Chain guides
of therod or cap. 10 Check the guides for deep grooves,
m Assemble each connecting rod to its 27 Camshaft chain and guides - ^ cracking and other obvious damage,
proper journal, making sure the previously removal, inspection and ^ replacing them if necessary.
applied matchmarks correspond to each installation ^
other. Note: The letter present at the rod/cap Installation
Beam on one side of the connecting rod is a 11 Installation of the chain and guides is the
five/gM mark. If new rods are being installed Removal
reverse of removal. Make sure the “ UP” mark
indthey don’t all have the same letter on Camshaft chain on the front camshaft chain guide is at the top
Hfem, two rods with the same letter should 1 Remove the engine (see Section 5). and facing forward (see illustration). When
f ile installed on one side o f the crank, 2 Separate the crankcase halves (see installing the bracket for the cam chain rear
and the letters on the other two rods Section 22). guide, apply a non-hardening thread locking
\ should match each other. This will minimize 3 Remove the crankshaft (see Section 25). compound to the threads of the bolts. Tighten
vibration. 4 Remove the chains from the crankshaft. the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
25 When you’re sure the rods are positioned
Chain guides Specifications. Apply engine oil to the faces of
■jwrectly, apply a small amount of engine oil
the guides and to the chains.
Nothe threads of the bolts and the seating 5 The cam chain front guide can be lifted
BUrface of the nuts. On D models, tighten the from the cylinder block after the head has
Kits to the torque listed in this Chapter’s been removed, or from the crankcase after
Specifications. On E models, the bolts are of the head and block have been removed (see
Hie stretch type and must be renewed illustration 13.4).
whgnever they are disturbed; measure the 6 The cam chain rear guide is fastened to the
length of the new bolts and record the figure, crankcase with a bracket and two bolts (see
Men install the bolts and tighten their nuts to illustration). Remove the bolts and detach
Wie torque listed followed by tightening the guide and bracket from the case.
jjhrough the specified angle. Now measure the
lolt length and compare it to the original
Inspection
[length; the difference should not exceed Camshaft chain
0.25- 0.35 mm. 7 Pull the chain tight to eliminate all slack and

20-link Length

27.11 Cam chain guide installation details


1 “UP” mark on front chain guide at the top
and facing forward
2 Front of the bike
27.7 Cam chain stretch measurement 3 Front cam chain guide
2*42 Engine, clutch and transmission

28.2 Once the crankcase has been separated, the transmission 28.4 Make sure the shaft bearings are properly engaged with
shafts can be lifted out set pins (A) and set rings (B)

29.2 To remove the shift drum assembly, remove the:


1 Shift drum retainer plate 3 Shift rod for output shaft
screws 4 Shift rod for input shaft 29.3a Remove the shift rod for the output shaft (shown) iand
2 Shift drum retainer plate 5 Shift drum assembly input shaft (not shown). . .

are present in the upper case half, where the 3 Support the shift forks and pull the
28 Transmission shafts - shaft bearings seat (see illustration). rods out (see illustration). The driveshaft
removal and installation ^ 5 Carefully lower each shaft into place. The forks and the shift rods are
holes in the needle bearing outer races must but it’s a good idea to
engage with the set pins, and the grooves in soon as they’re removed from the
the ball bearing outer races must engage with they can be returned to their origina
Removal the set rings. If you have trouble fitting the (see illustration).
1 Remove the engine and clutch, then cases together, this is the most likely cause of
separate the case halves (see Sections 5, 20 the problem
and 22). 6 The remainder of installation is the reverse
2 The shafts can simply be lifted out of the of removal.
upper half of the case (see illustration). If
they are stuck, use a soft-face hammer and
gently tap on the bearings on the ends of the 29 Shift drum and forks -
shafts to free them. The shaft nearest the rear removal, inspection and 5
of the case is the output shaft - the other shaft installation ^
is the main drive shaft.
3 Refer to Section 29 for information
pertaining to the shift drum and forks and to
Removal
Section 30 for information pertaining to 1 Remove the engine, separate the
transmission shaft service. crankcase halves and remove the external
shift mechanism (see Sections 5, 21 and 22). 29.3b . . . and reassemble them so
Installation 2 Remove the retaining plate for the shift can be returned to their original
4 Check to make sure the set pins and rings drum and shift rods (see illustration). positions
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*43

♦Slide the shift drum out of the crankcase


(seeillustration).
Inspection
fi Check the edges of the grooves in the drum
forsigns of excessive wear (see illustration).
Measure the widths of the grooves and
compare your findings to this Chapter’s
Specifications.
8 Put the shift drum in a bench vise and
remove the drum cam bolt and disassemble
(he drum (see illustration). Check the
pin plate and pins for wear or damage
and replace them as necessary. Spin the
bearing and check for roughness, noise or 29.4 Remove the shift drum assembly 29.5 Inspect the edges of the fork grooves
looseness. Replace the bearing if defects are for wear, especially at their points (arrowed)

11 Input shaft shift rod and fork


2 Output shaft shift rod and
I forks
3 Shift drum cam bolt
I 4 Washer J
5 Shift drum cam
I 6 Spacer !
7 Bearing Q
8 Woodruff key \
9 Shift drum JV
10 Neutral switch f ,
II Washer
12 Snap-ring ‘<CS:
13 Needle bearing c?
14 Needle bearing outer race -------
J5 Thrust washer
16 Second gear
17 Bushing
18 Sixth gear
19 Toothed washer
20 Snap-ring 13
21 Third/fourth gear \
22 Snap-ring \
23 Toothed washer
24 Bushing
25 Fifth gear
26 Input shaft (also referred to as
the "drive shaft” or
I "mainshaft") 4 9

27 Bearing \
28 Snap-ring 50 ^
29 Needle bearing 51 \
30 Bearing outer race \
31 Thrust washer ’■
32 First gear IP
33 Fifth gear 47 Bearing Shift shaft/external
34 Snap-ring 48 Collar shift mechanism
35 Toothed washer 49 Countershaft sprocket assembly
36 Third gear (also referred to as the Return spring
37 Fourth gear ‘‘drive sprocket”) Stud
38 Bushing 50 Locking washer Gear positioning lever
39 Toothed washer 51 Countershaft sprocket retaining bolt
40 Snap-ring nut Gear positioning lever
41 Sixth gear 52 Shift linkage pinch Collar
42 Snap-ring bolt Return spring
43 Toothed washer 53 Shift linkage Shift linkage adjustment
44 Second gear 54 Snap-ring rod and nuts
45 Bushing 55 Collar Shift lever rubber
46 Output shaft 56 Return spring Shift lever

29.6 An exploded view of the shift drum and transmission shaft assemblies
2*44 Engine, clutch and transmission

wear, galling and other damage. Make sure


the shift forks move smoothly on the shafts. If
the shafts are worn or bent, replace them with
new ones.
Installation
9 Installation is the reverse of removal; note
the following points:
a) Lubricate all parts with engine oil before
installing them.
b) Use non-permanent thread locking agent
on the threads o f the shift drum and shift
rod retaining plate bolts. Tighten the bolts
29.7 Measure the thickness of the shift securely.
When disassembling the transmis
fork ears and replace the shift forks if shafts, place the parts on a long rodo
they’re worn thread a wire through them to keep
found. To reassemble the shift drum, fit the 30 Transmission shafts - ^ them in order and facing the proper
spacer and the drum cam onto the shift drum disassembly, inspection and direction. A large rubber band will kei
so that the Woodruff key fits into the groove in reassembly ^ them from being disturbed
the spacer and the cam.
7 Check the shift forks for distortion and 1 Remove the shafts from the case (see
wear, especially at the fork ears. Measure the 4 Remove sixth gear and bushing
Section 28).
thickness of the fork ears and compare your illustrations).
findings with this Chapter’s Specifications Input shaft 5 Slide the toothed washer off and re
(see illustration). If they are discolored or the snap-ring (see illustration). To kee
severely worn they are probably bent. If
Disassembly snap-ring from bending as it’s expande
damage or wear is evident, check the shift 2 Remove the needle bearing outer race, then the back of it with pliers (see illustration),
fork groove in the corresponding gear as well. remove the snap-ring from the end of the 6 Remove the third/fourth gear cluster!
Inspect the guide pins and the shaft bore for shaft and slide the needle bearing off (see the shaft (see illustration).
excessive wear and distortion and replace any illustrations). 7 Remove the next snap-ring, then slid
defective parts with new ones. 3 Remove the thrust washer and slide second washer, fifth gear and its bushing off thes
8 Check the shift fork shafts for evidence of gear off the shaft (see illustration). (see illustrations).

30.2a Slide off the needle bearing outer 30.2b . . . then remove the snap-ring and 30.3 Remove the thrust washer and
race . . . bearing second gear

30.4a Slide off sixth gear . . . 30.4b . . . and its bushing 30.5a Remove the toothed washer an
snap-ring . . .
Engine, clutch and transmission 2»45

30.6 Slide the third/fourth gear off the 30.7a Remove the snap-ring . . .
shaft

30.9 If the grooves are too wide, replace


30.7c . . . and its bushing the gear - also replace the gear if the dogs
(arrowed) are worn

Inspection third/fourth gear assembly, and also check 30.9 and the accompanying illustration).
I Wash all of the components in clean the third/fourth gear shift fork (see Replace the paired gears as a set if
solvent and dry them off. Rotate the ball Section 29). necessary.
bearing on the shaft, feeling for tightness, 10 Check the gear teeth for cracking and 12 Check the needle bearing and race for
ugh spots, excessive looseness and other obvious damage. Check the bushing wear or heat discoloration and replace them if
ning for noises. If any of these conditions and surface in the inner diameter of the fifth necessary.
found, replace the bearing. This will and sixth gears for scoring or heat
R e a s s e m b ly
quire the use of a hydraulic press or a discoloration. If either one is damaged,
replace it. 13 Reassembly is the basically the reverse of
iring puller setup. If you don’t have access
) these tools, take the shaft and bearing to a 11 Inspect the dogs and the dog holes in the the disassembly procedure, but take note of
vasaki dealer or other motorcycle repair gears for excessive wear (see illustration the following points (see illustration):
hopand have them press the old bearing off
lieshaft and install the new one. © © ©
9 Measure the shift fork groove between third
and fourth gears (see illustration). If the
ove width exceeds the figure listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications, replace the

30.13a Input shaft gear details


1 Needle bearing outer race 6 6th gear 11 Snap-ring
2 Snap-ring 7 Bushing 12 Toothed washer
30.11 Replace the gear if the bushing (left 3 Needle bearing 8 Toothed washer 13 5th gear
arrow) is worn; also if the slot edges (right 4 Thrust washer 9 Snap-ring 14 1st gear
arrow) are rounded 5 2nd gear 10 3rd!4th gear 15 Ballbearing
2*46 Engine, clutch and transmission

30.13b When installing snap-rings (1), 30.13c Be sure to align the bushing oil 30.14a Slide off the bearing outer race.,
align the opening (3) with a spline hole with the shaft oil hole (arrowed)
groove (2)

a) Always use new snap-rings and align t


opening of the ring with a spline groovej
(see illustration). Face the sharp sidec
snap-ring toward the gear being secuit
the rounded side faces away from thee,
b) When installing the gear bushings ont
shaft, align the oil hole in the shaft witfi
the oil hole in the bushing (see
illustration).
c) Lubricate the components with engin
before assembling them.
Output shaft
30.14b , . . and the bearing 30.15 Remove the thrust washer (arrowed) Disassem bly
and first gear 14 Remove the needle bearing outer
and slide the needle bearing off
illustrations).
15 Remove the thrust washer and first
from the shaft (see illustration).
16 Remove fifth gear from the shaft,
gear has three steel balls in it for the po:
neutral finder mechanism. These lock
gear to the shaft unless it is spun ra|
enough to fling the balls outward. To rei
fifth gear, grasp third gear and hold the
in a vertical position with one hand, and
the other hand, spin the shaft back and foi
holding onto fifth gear and pulling up
illustration); it may take several tri
disengage fifth gear from the shaft, but
30.16a Hold third gear (A) with one hand 30.16b These balls ride in slots in the slide off easily once it is disengaged .Afti
and spin the transmission shaft while shaft; they must be flung outward by gear is removed, collect the three steel
lifting up on fifth gear (B) centrifugal force to remove fifth gear (see illustration).

30.17a Remove the snap-ring . . . 30.17b . . . the toothed washer . . . 30.17c . . . third gear.
Engine, clutch and transmission 2*47

30.17d . . . its bushing and fourth gear 30.18a Remove the toothed washer . . . 30.18b . . . the snap-ring

Caution: Don’t pull the gear up too hard or Inspection a) Always use new snap-rings and align the
fast ■the balls will fly out of the gear. opening o f the ring with a spline groove
21 Refer to Steps 8 through 12 for the
17 Remove the snap-ring, toothed washer, (see illustration 30.13b). Face the sharp
inspection procedures. They are the same,
third gear, bushing and fourth gear from the side of each snap-ring toward the gear
shaft (see illustrations). except when checking the shift fork groove
being secured; face the rounded side of
18 Remove the toothed washer, snap-ring width you’ll be checking it on fifth and sixth snap-ring away from the gear.
andsixth gear (see illustrations). gears. b) When installing the bushing for third and
19 Remove the next snap-ring, toothed fourth gear and second gear, align the oil
Reassembly
washer, second gear and its bushing (see hole in the bushing with the hole in the
Illustrations). 22 Reassembly is the basically the reverse of shaft.
20 The ball bearing and collar can remain on the disassembly procedure, but take note of c) When installing fifth gear, don't use
theshaft unless they need to be replaced (see the following points (see illustration grease to hold the balls in place - to do so
illustration). overleaf): would impair the positive neutral finder

30.18c . . . and sixth gear 30.19a Remove the snap-ring . . .

30.19b . . . the toothed washer and second 30.19c . . . and its bushing 30.20 The bearing and collar can be left on
gear. . . the shaft unless they’re worn or damaged
2*48 Engine, clutch and transmission

mechanism. Just set the balls in their


holes (the holes that they can't pass
through), keep the gear in a vertical
position and carefully set it on the shaft
(engine oil will help keep them in place).
The spline grooves that contain the holes
with the balls must be aligned with the
slots in the shaft spline grooves. Lubricate
the components with engine oil before
assembling them.

31 Initial start-up after overhaul %

Note: Make sure the cooling system is


checked carefully (especially the coolant level)
before starting and running the engine.
1 Make sure the engine oil level is correct, View AA
then remove the spark plugs from the engine.
Place the engine STOP switch in the Off
position and unplug the primary (low tension)
wires from the coil.
2 Turn on the key switch and crank the 30.22 O utput shaft gear details
engine over with the starter until the oil Collar 8 Snap-ring 15 Steel ball
pressure indicator light goes off (which Ball bearing 9 Toothed washer 16 5th gear
indicates that oil pressure exists). Reinstall the Output shaft 10 4th gear 17 1st gear
spark plugs, connect the wires and turn the 2nd gear 11 Bushing 18 Thrust washer
switch to On. Toothed washer 12 3rd gear 19 Needle bearing
3 Make sure there is fuel in the tank, then turn Snap-ring 13 Toothed washer 20 Needle bearing outer
the fuel tap to the Prime position and operate 6th gear 14 Snap-ring race
the choke.
4 Start the engine and allow it to run at a machine were new. This means greater
moderately fast idle until it reaches operating 32 Recommended break-in the transmission and a restraining hand
temperature. procedure throttle until at least 500 miles (800 km)
Warning: If the oil pressure been covered. There’s no point in kee

A indicator light doesn’t go off, or


it comes on while the engine is
running, stop the engine
immediately.
1 Any rebuilt engine needs time to break-in,
even if parts have been installed in their
original locations. For this reason, treat the
any set speed limit - the main idea is to
from lugging the engine and to grad
increase performance until the 500 mile
km) mark is reached. These recommei
5 Check carefully for oil leaks and make sure machine gently for the first few miles to make can be lessened to an extent when only
the transmission and controls, especially the sure oil has circulated throughout the engine crankshaft is installed. Experience is the
brakes, function properly before road testing and any new parts installed have started to guide, since it’s easy to tell when an eng
the machine. Refer to Section 32 for the seat. running freely.
recommended break-in procedure. 2 Even greater care is necessary if the engine 3 If a lubrication failure is suspected, stop
6 Upon completion of the road test, and after has been rebored or a new crankshaft has engine immediately and try to find the
the engine has cooled down completely, been installed. In the case of a rebore, the If an engine is run without oil, even fora
recheck the valve clearances (see Chapter 1). engine will have to be broken in as if the period of time, irreparable damage will
Chapter 3
Cooling system
Contents
Coolant level check ................................See Daily (pre-ride) checks Fluid levels - check..................................See Daily (pre-ride) checks
Coolant pipe(s) - removal and installation..................................... 10 General information..................................................................... 1
Coolant reservoir - removal and installation.................................. 3 Oil cooler - removal and installation .............................................11
Coolant temperature sensor and gauge - check Radiator cap - check................................................................... 2
andreplacement..................................................................................... 5 Radiator - removal and installation............................................... 8
Coolingfan and thermostatic fan switch - check Thermostat housing - removal and installation.............................. 7
afidreplacement..................................................................................... 4 Thermostat - removal, check and installation................................ 6
Coolingsystem check ...............................................See Chapter 1 Water pump - check, removal and installation.............................. 9
Coolingsystem draining, flushing and refilling............. See Chapter 1

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable |k Fairly difficult, |k Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY 5^ suitable for expert DIY
|-experience % some experience ^ DIY mechanic mechanic ^ or professional

Specifications
General
Coolant type.................................... See Chapter 1
Mixtureratio.................................... See Chapter 1
Radiator cap pressure rating ............. 14 to 18 psi (0.95 to 1.25 bars)
litemiostatic fan switch rating
I Rising temperature........................ From Off to On at 96 to 100° C (205 to 212° F)
Fallingtemperature........................ From On to Off at 91 to 95° C (196 to 203° F)
■ Resistance
■ On.......................................... Less than 0.5 ohms
Off.......................................... More than 1 M-ohm
Coolant temperature sensor resistance
At 80-degrees C (176-degrees F) . . . 47 to 57 ohms
At 100-degrees C (212-degrees F) . . 26 to 30 ohms
Thermostat ra tin g
Valveopening temperature................. 80 to 84° C (176 to 183° F)
Valvefully open a t............................. 95° C (203° F)
Valvetravel (when fully open)............. Not less then 8 mm (5/16-inch)
Torque sp ecificatio ns
IpeiTnostatic fan switch.................... 18 Nm (156 in-lbs)
Coolant temperature sensor............... 7.8 Nm (69 in-lbs)
Oil cooler
H|ose-to-cooler banjo bolts............. 25 Nm (216 in-lbs)
■iHose-to-engine flange b olts........... 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
3»2 Cooling system

passes up through a flexible hose and a motorcycle is not moving. Under certain
1 General information coolant pipe, which distributes the water conditions, the fan may come on even after
around the four cylinders. It flows through the the engine is stopped, and the ignition switch
water passages in the cylinder head, through is off, and may run for several minutes.
another pipe (or hoses) and into the The coolant temperature sending unit,
thermostat housing. The hot coolant then threaded into the thermostat housing, senses
The models covered by this manual are
flows down into the radiator (which is the temperature of the coolant and controls
equipped with a liquid cooling system (see
mounted on the frame downtubes to take the coolant temperature gauge on the
illustration) which utilizes a water/antifreeze advantage of maximum air flow), where it is instrument cluster.
mixture to carry away excess heat produced cooled by the passing air, through another The entire system is sealed and
during the combustion process. The cylinders hose and back to the water pump, where the pressurized. The pressure is controlled by a
are surrounded by water jackets, through cycle is repeated. valve which is part of the radiator cap. By
which the coolant is circulated by the water An electric fan, mounted behind the pressurizing the coolant, the boiling point is
pump. The pump is mounted to the left side of radiator and automatically controlled by a raised, which prevents premature boiling of
the crankcase and is driven by a gear thermostatic switch, provides a flow of the coolant. An overflow hose, connected
mounted on the secondary shaft. The coolant cooling air through the radiator when the between the radiator and reservoir tank.

1.1 The cooling system


Refer to illustration 26.1 in Chapter 1 for carburetor warmer system hose routing on later UK models
1 Water pump 4 Thermostat 8 Radiator cap 11 Radiator
2 Cylinder cooling jacket 5 Coolant temperature sensor 9 Reservoir-to-radiator cap 12 Radiator fan
3 Cylinder head cooling 6 Air bleeder hole hose 13 Thermostatic fan switch
passage 7 Air bleeder bolt 10 Reservoir tank 14 Drain bolt
Cooling system 3*3

3.2 To detach the reservoir, disconnect the hoses, then remove 4.1 Unplug the switch leads and bridge them with a jumper wire
the retaining bolts (arrows)

coolant to the tank when the radiator steam has stopped escaping, press down of this book). If the fuse is good, remove the
cap valve is opened by excessive pressure. on the cap while turning counterclockwise lower fairing (see Chapter 8) and unplug the
The coolant is automatically siphoned back to and remove it. electrical leads from the therm ostatic fan
theradiator as the engine cools. switch. Using a jum per wire, connect these
Many cooling system inspection and tw o leads (see illustration). If the fan still
service procedures are considered part of 2 Radiator cap - check doesn’t come on, check the wiring,
routine maintenance and are included in ‘Daily
(pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of this I connectors and fan motor.
2 To check the motor, remove the fuel tank
Manual and Chapter 1. and trace the wiring harness from the fan
On later UK models, the coolant is also If problems such as overheating and loss of m otor to its electrical connector, located
used to warm the carburetor bodies via an coolant occur, check the entire system as between the steering head and the cross
arrangement of small hoses. The coolant described in Chapter 1. The radiator cap brace and accessible from above (it’s a two-
travels from the rear of the cylinder block, opening pressure should be checked by a wire black connector). Unplug the connector
through a filter, through the carburetor dealer service department or service station and, using two jumper wires connected to the
castings and then rejoins the main cooling equipped with the special tester required to battery terminals, apply battery voltage to the
system at the water pump. A check valve is do the job. If the cap is defective, replace it fan-side of the electrical connector. If the fan
fitted above the water pump to ensure the with a new one. doesn’t rotate, replace the fan motor. If it
correct flow of coolant. does rotate, the problem is either in the
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze wiring, connectors or the therm ostatic fan

A to come in contact with your


skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills
Coolant reservoir -
removal and installation
switch
3 To check the fan switch, remove the switch
(see Step 10) and test it as shown (see
immediately with plenty of water. illustration). Note the temperature at which
Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never 1 Remove the right side cover (see the switch closes the circuit and compare this
leave antifreeze lying around in an open Chapter 8). to the temperature listed in this C hapter’s
container or in puddles on the floor; 2 Disconnect the hoses from the reservoir Specifications. If the switch doesn’t perform
children and pets are attracted by it’s (see illustration). It’s a good idea to mark the as described, replace it.
sweet smell and may drink it. Check with positions of the hoses so they aren’t attached
local authorities about disposing of used to the wrong fitting when the reservoir is
antifreeze. Many communities have installed.
collection centers which will see that 3 Remove the reservoir retaining bolts and
antifreeze is disposed of safely. detach the reservoir from the frame.
Warning: Do not remove the 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

A radiator cap when the engine


and radiator are hot. Scalding
hot coolant and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which could
cause serious injury. To open the radiator
cap, remove the rear screw from the right
Cooling fan and
thermostatic fan switch -
check and replacement I
sidepanel on the inside of the fairing (if
equipped). When the engine has cooled, Check
lift up the panel and place a thick rag, like 1 If the engine is overheating and the cooling
a towel, over the radiator cap; slowly fan isn’t coming on, remove the seat and
rotate the cap counterclockwise to the check the (10A) fan fuse (see Chapter 9). If the 4.3 Connect an ohmmeter, heat the water
first stop. This procedure allows any fuse is blown, check the fan circuit for a short and note when the switch closes the
residual pressure to escape. When the to ground (see the Wiring diagrams at the end circuit
3*4 Cooling system

4.6 To detach the fan, remove the bolts (arrows); to separate the 5.2 The sensor (arrow) is threaded into the thermostat housingo
motor, remove the screws (arrows) the right side of the frame

Replacement 10 Prepare the new switch by wrapping the 4 If the gauge passes both of these tests,
threads with Teflon tape or by coating the doesn’t operate correctly under normal rii
Fan motor threads with RTV sealant. Remove the lower conditions, the temperature sending uniti
Warning: The engine must be fairing (see Chapter 8). probably defective. To test the sensor, remi

A completely cool before


beginning this procedure.
4 Disconnect the cable from the negative
11 Place a drain pan under the radiator and
have some rags handy to soak up the coolant
that will inevitably spill out. Unscrew the switch
it, suspend the temperature sensing proji
and threaded portion of the sensor in a
water (see illu s tra tio n ) and, using
terminal of the battery. from the radiator (see illustration 4.1) and ohmmeter, see if the sensor’s resistance gi
5 Remove the radiator (see Section 8). quickly install the new switch, tightening it to the down as the temperature increases. Com|
6 Remove the three bolts securing the fan torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. your results to the resistance values listedi
bracket to the radiator (see illustration). 12 Plug in the electrical leads to the switch. this C hapter’s Specifications. If the sens
Separate the fan and bracket from the 13 Check and, if necessary, add coolant to doesn’t perform as specified, replace it.
radiator. the system (see ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the 5 If the gauge doesn’t respond to these
7 Remove the screws that retain the fan beginning of this Manual). Install the lower tests as described, either the wire to
blades to the fan motor shaft and remove the fairing (see Chapter 8). gauge is bad or the gauge itself is defect!’
fan blade assembly from the motor.
8 Remove the screws that secure the fan
Replacement
motor to the bracket and detach the motor Coolant temperature sensor Coolant temperature sensor
from the bracket. and gauge - check and
Warning: The engine must be
9 Installation is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Thermostatic fan switch Check
replacement
A completely cool before
beginning this procedure.
6 Prepare the new sending unit by wrapp
Warning: The engine must be 1 If the engine has been overheating but the the threads with Teflon tape or by coating B*
| \ completely cool before coolant temperature gauge hasn’t been threads with RTV sealant.
beginning this procedure. indicating a hotter than normal condition, 7 Unscrew the sending unit from
begin with a check of the coolant level (see thermostat housing and quickly install ther
unit, tightening it to the torque listed in this
‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of
this Manual). If it’s low, add the recommended Chapter’s Specifications.
8 Reconnect the electrical connector to the
type of coolant and be sure to locate the
source of the leak. sending unit. Check and, if necessary, add
coolant to the system (see ‘Daily (pre-ride,
2 Remove the seat and the fuel tank (see
checks’ at the beginning of this Manual).
Chapter 4). Locate the coolant temperature
sensor (see illustration), which is screwed Coolant temperature gauge
into the therm ostat housing. Unplug the 9 Refer to Chapter 9 for the coolant
electrical connector from the sensor, turn the temperature gauge re-placement procedun
ignition key to the Run position (don't crank
the engine over) and note the temperature
gauge - it should read Cold. 6 Thermostat - removal,
3 With the ignition key still in the run position, check and installation
connect one end of a jum per wire to the
sending unit wire and ground the other end.
The needle on the temperature gauge should
5.4 Suspend the temperature sensing swing over past the Hot mark. Removal
projection and the threaded portion of the Caution: Don’t ground the wire any longer Warning: The engine must be
sensor in water, measure the resistance of than necessary or the gauge may be completely cool before
the sensor as the water heats up damaged. beginning this procedure.
Cooling system 3*5

6.4 Remove the four screws (arrows) that attach the cover to the 6.5 Remove the thermostat cover
thermostat housing

6,6a Remove the thermostat from the housing, noting how it’s 6.6b . . . and remove the O-ring from the cover
installed . . .

1 If the thermostat is functioning properly, the and other damage. If it was open when it was 13 Install a new O-ring in the groove in the
coolant temperature gauge should rise to the removed, it is defective. Check the O-ring for thermostat cover.
normal operating temperature quickly and cracks and other damage. 14 Place the cover on the housing and install
(hen stay there, only rising above the normal 8 To check the therm ostat’s operation, the cover screws, tightening them securely.
position occasionally when the engine gets submerge it in a container of water along with
unusually hot. If the engine does not reach a therm om eter (see illustration). The
normal operating temperature quickly, or if it thermostat should be suspended so it does
overheats, the thermostat should be removed not touch the container.
and checked, or replaced with a new one. Warning: A ntifreeze is poisonous. D on’t
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). use a cooking pan.
3 Remove the trim panel between the upper 9 Gradually heat the water in the container
fairing and the right side of the fuel tank (see with a hot plate or stove and check the
Chapter 8). temperature when the thermostat first starts
4 Remove the four screws that attach the cover to open. Continue heating the water and
tothe thermostat housing (see illustration). check the temperature when the thermostat is
5 Remove the therm ostat cover (see fully open.
illustration). It isn’t necessary to disconnect 10 Compare your results to the specified
the hoses from the cover. thermostat opening temperature range listed
6 Withdraw the thermostat from the housing in this Chapter’s Specifications.
and remove the O-ring from the cover (see 11 If the therm ostat does not open as
illustrations). described, replace it.
Check Installation 6.8 To check the thermostat, submerge it
7 Remove any coolant deposits, then visually 12 Install the therm ostat into the housing, in a container of water and gradually heat
check the thermostat for corrosion, cracks spring end first (see illustration 6.6a). the water
3*6 Cooling system

mounting bracket assembly. To separate the from the rubber gromm et located in
housing from the bracket, remove the two bracket on top of the oil cooler (see
cover screws on the bracket side of the cover. illustration). Remove the radiator.
8 If the radiator is to be repaired or replaced!
Installation remove the cooling fan (see Section 4).
7 Place the thermostat housing and bracket 9 Carefully examine the radiator for evide
assembly in position, install the bolts and of leaks and damage. It is recommended M l
tighten them securely. any necessary repairs be performed by 8J
8 Connect the hoses to the thermostat cover reputable radiator repair shop.
and housing. 10 If the radiator is clogged, or if larg
9 The remainder of installation is the reverse amounts of rust or scale have formed,
of the removal procedure. Fill the cooling repair shop will also do a thorough cieanin
system with the recommended coolant (see job.
Chapter 1). 11 Make sure the spaces between the?
7.4 Loosen the hose clamps and cooling tubes and fins are clear. If necessa
disconnect the hoses, then remove the use compressed air or running water to
bolts (arrows) Radiator - % remove anything that may be clogging them.
removal and installation
15 The remainder of installation is the reverse
of the removal procedure. Fill the cooling If the radiator fins are bent
system with the recommended coolant (see HAYNES
or flattened, straighten them
Chapter 1). Removal very carefully with a small
Warning: The engine must be screwdriver.
7 Thermostat housing - % completely cool before
removal and installation ^ beginning this procedure.
Installation
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. Disconnect
the cable from the negative terminal of the 12 Installation is the reverse of the removal
battery. procedure. Be sure to replace the hoses il
Removal 2 Remove the upper and lower fairings (see they are deteriorated, and refill the cooling
Warning: The engine must be system with the recommended coolant (see1

A
Chapter 8).
completely cool before 3 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). Chapter 1).
beginning this procedure. 4 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
1 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). Follow the wiring harness from the fan motor
Water pump - check,
2 Remove the trim panel between the upper to the electrical connector, then unplug the
removal and installation
fairing and the right side of the fuel tank (see connector. Detach any other wiring that may
Chapter 8). interfere with radiator removal.
3 Unplug the electrical lead from the coolant 5 Loosen the hose clamps on both radiator
temperature sensor and disconnect the hoses (one at the lower left corner and one at Check
ground wire from the bolt right above the the upper right corner of the radiator) and
Warning: The engine must be
sensor (see illustration 5.2).
4 Detach the hoses from the therm ostat
cover and housing (see illustration).
5 Remove the two bolts which attach the
detach the hoses (on some models it may be
easier to detach the left side hose at the water
pump, instead of the radiator).
6 Remove the radiator mounting bolts (see
A completely cool before
beginning this procedure.
Note: The water pump on these models can't
thermostat housing bracket to the frame (see illustration). be overhauled - it must be replaced as a unit.
illustration 7.4). 7 Lift the radiator up slightly to detach the 1 Visually check around the area of the water
6 Remove the therm ostat housing and positioning pin on the bottom of the radiator pump for coolant leaks. Try to determine if the

8.6 Remove the bolts that attach the upper corners of the 8.7 Lift the radiator to disengage the pin on its lower edge from
radiator to their frame brackets the grommet on top of the oil cooler
Cooling system 3*7

9.5Loosen the clamp (arrow) and detach the hose, then remove 9.7 Try to wiggle the water pump impeller back-and-forth and in-
the cover bolts (arrows) and-out
The upper and lower bolts are also the water pump-to-engine
retaining bolts

leak is simply the result of a loose hose clamp cover O-ring, remove the old O-ring (see
or deteriorated hose. illustration) and install a new one.
2 Set the bike on its centerstand.
3 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). Removal
4 Drain the engine coolant (see Chapter 1). 10 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1).
5 Loosen the hose clamp and detach the inlet 11 Disconnect the inlet hose from the pump
hose from the water pump cover (see cover (see illustration 9.5).
illustration). 12 Disconnect the outlet hose and drain bolt
6 Remove the cover bolts (see illustration housing from the water pump (see
9.5) and separate the cover from the water illustration).
pump body. 13 Pull the pump straight out to remove it
7 Try to wiggle the water pump impeller (see illustration).
back-and-forth and in-and-out (see 14 Check the “weep hole” (coolant drainage
illustration). If you can feel movement, the passage) in the underside of the pump body
9.9 Inspect the water pump cover O-ring
water pump must be replaced. (see illustration overleaf). If there is coolant
for cracks; if it’s damaged or deteriorated,
8 Check the impeller blades for corrosion. If residue around it, the water pump is defective
replace it
they are heavily corroded, replace the water (when coolant gets past the mechanical seal
pump and flush the system thoroughly (it inside the pump, it leaks out the weep hole).
would also be a good idea to check the Replace the pump. sleeve (see illustration 9.14 overleaf). If it’s
internal condition of the radiator). 15 If the original water pump is to be cracked or otherwise deteriorated, replace it
9 If the cause of the leak was just a defective installed, check the O-ring on the pump with a new one.

9.12 Remove the drain plug housing retaining bolt and detach the 9.13 To remove the water pump assembly, pull it straight out of
housing and outlet hose the engine
3*8 Cooling system

9.14 Inspect the “weep hole” carefully 9.16 Make sure the water pump is engaged with the D-shaped
nose (arrow) on the oil pump shaft

Installation Upper coolant pipe Lower coolant pipe


16 Installation is basically the reverse of 4 Loosen the hose clamp and detach the 11 Loosen the hose clamp and detach the
removal. Before installing the pump, smear a coolant hose from the right end of the upper coolant hose from the left end of the lower
little engine oil on the sleeve O-ring. The water coolant pipe. coolant pipe.
pump is driven off the left end of the oil pump 5 Remove the coolant pipe-to-cylinder head 12 Remove the two coolant pipe-to-engine
shaft. Make sure the pump is engaged bolts (see illustration) and separate the pipe block bolts (see illustration).
properly with the D-shaped end of this shaft from the cylinder head. 13 Separate the pipe from the cylinder block,
(see illustration). Be sure to tighten the pump 6 Remove the O-rings from the ends of the Make sure all the O-rings come out with the
cover bolts securely. Fill the cooling system pipe and install new ones. If one of the ends pipe - if not, be sure to retrieve them.
with the recommended coolant (see doesn’t have an O-ring, be sure to retrieve it 14 Check the pipe ends and the holes in the
Chapter 1). from one of the holes in the cylinder head. cylinder block for corrosion, and remove all
7 Check the holes in the head for corrosion, traces of corrosion if any exists.
and remove all traces of corrosion if any 15 Lubricate the new O-rings with clean
exists. engine oil and install them on the pipe ends.
10 Coolant pipe(s) - % 8 Lubricate the new O-rings with clean 16 Install the ends of the coolant pipe into
removal and installation ^ engine oil, then install them on the pipe ends. the holes in the cylinder block. Install the
9 Install the ends of the coolant pipe into the mounting bolts and tighten them securely.
holes in the cylinder head. Make sure the
Warning: The engine must be Upper and lower coolant pipes

A
O-rings don’t bunch up or tear. Install the
completely cool before mounting bolts and tighten them securely. 17 Fill the cooling system with the
beginning this procedure. 10 Inspect the upper coolant hose. If it’s recommended coolant (see Chapter 1) and
1 Place the bike on its centerstand. cracked, torn or otherwise deteriorated, this is check for leaks.
2 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). a good time to replace it. Reattach the coolant 18 The remainder of installation is the reverse
3 Drain the engine coolant (see Chapter 1). hose and tighten the hose clamp securely. of the removal procedure.

10.5 Loosen the clamp and detach the hose from the right end of 10.12 Loosen the clamp and detach the hose from the lower left
the pipe, then remove the bolts (arrows) and pull the pipe ends end of the pipe, then remove the bolts (arrows) and pull the pipe
out of the cylinder head ends out of the cylinder block; discard the old O-rings
Cooling system 3*9

11.3 Remove the banjo bolts (arrow); 11.4 To detach the oil cooler from the 11.5 To detach the oil cooler hoses from
discard the old sealing washers frame, remove these two bolts (arrows) the engine, remove these flange bolts
(arrows)
2 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). flanges to the pan. Discard the old O-rings.
11 Oil cooler - ^ 3 Place a drain pan under the oil cooler Lubricate the new O-rings with clean
; removal and installation H? and remove the hose-to-oil cooler banjo bolts engine oil and tighten the flange bolts to
(see illustration). Discard the sealing the torque listed in this Chapter’s
washers. Specifications.
Note: Wait until the engine is cool before 4 Remove the oil cooler retaining bolts (see 6 Installation of the oil cooler is the reverse of
| beginning this procedure. If the oil cooler is illustration). removal. Be sure to use new sealing washers
I being removed to access the oil filter, take 5 Inspect both oil cooler hoses for cracks when installing the hose-to-cooler banjo
care to avoid burning your hands on the hot and tears. If either hose is damaged or bolts. Tighten the banjo bolts to the torque
exhausts or scalding them with hot oil. otherwise deteriorated, replace it. To detach listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Fill the
T1 Set the bike on its centerstand and drain the hoses from the engine, remove the crankcase with the recommended type and
theengine oil (see Chapter 1). bolts (see illustration) that attach the hose amount of oil (see Chapter 1).
Chapter 4
Fuel and exhaust systems
Contents
Air filter housing - removal and in sta lla tio n .......................................... 4 Fuel pump (E models) - description, check
Air filter element - servicing .............................................. See Chapter 1 and component replacement ........................................................... 3
buretor overhaul - general information .......................................... 6 Fuel tank - removal, cleaning, repair and installation ........................ 2
uretors - disassembly, cleaning and inspection ........................ 7 Fuel tap - removal and in sta lla tio n ................................... See Chapter 1
uretors - fuel level a d ju stm e n t....................................................... 9 General in fo rm a tio n ................................................................................. 1
uretors - reassembly and float height adjustm ent...................... 8 Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - general information ......................12
uretors - removal and installation ................................................ 5 Idle speed - check and adjustment ................................. See Chapter 1
Choke cable - removal, installation and a d ju stm e n t.......................... 11 Throttle cables and grip - removal, installation
Exhaust system - removal and in s ta lla tio n ..........................................13 and a d ju s tm e n t....................................................................................10
Fuel system - check and filter cleaning .......................... See Chapter 1 Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay - check
and adju stm e n t................................................................ See Chapter 1

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitablefor Fairly easy, suitable | k Fairly difficult, ^ Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult, \
novicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY
experience ^ some experience ^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional ^

Specifications
General
buretor type ............................................................................................ .....Keihin Seiki CVK-D36 (four)
Fuel pressure (E models) ............................................................................. .....1.6 to 2.3 psi (0.11 to 0.16 bars)

Jet sizes - D m odels


Main jet (except high-altitude)
| California models ...........................................................................................145
All others.................................................................................................... .....142
Main jet (high-altitude)
■ California models ...........................................................................................142
All others.................................................................................................... .....140
Main air jet .................................................................................................... .....70
Needle j e t ...................................................................................................... .....6
Needle jet mark.............................................................................................. .....N14G
Pilot jet (slow jet)
■ Except high-altitude................................................................................. .....35
I High-altitude.............................................................................................. .....32
Pilot air jet (slow air je t ) ................................................................................. .....110

k California models ...................................................................................... 48


All o th e rs................................................................................................................... 52
4*2 Fuel and exhaust systems

Jet sizes - E models


Main jet (except high-altitude)
California models ................. 140
All o th e rs ................................ 135
Main jet (high-altitude)
California models ................. 138
All o th e rs ................................ 132
Main air jet ................................ 50
Needle j e t .................................. 6
Jet needle
UK models
E1 and E2 m o d e ls ............. N1VC
E3-on m o d e ls ................... N31B (cyl. 1 and 4), N1VT (cyl. 2 and 3)
US models ............................ N1VC
Pilot jet (slow jet)
Except h ig h -a ltitu d e ............. 35
H igh-altitude......................... 32
Pilot air jet (slow air jet)
California models ................. 120
All others:
E1 and E2 m o d e ls............. 110
E3-on models ................... 100
Starter jet .................................. 52

Carburetor adjustments
Choke cable freeplay ............... 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)
Float h e ig h t................................ 9 to 13 mm (0.3546 to 0.5122 inch)
Fuel le v e l.................................... 2 to 4 mm below the mark

Torque specification
Carburetor holder bolts ........... 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
immediately with soap and water. Mop up
1 General information 2 Fuel tank - removal, cleaning, ^ any spills immediately and do not store
repair and installation ^ fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite,
When you perform any kind of work on the
fuel system, wear safety glasses and have
The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, a fire extinguisher suitable for a class B
the fuel tap and filter, the carburetors and the Removal type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
connecting lines, hoses and control cables. Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is 1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8).
The carburetors used on these motorcycles
are four constant vacuum Keihins with
butterfly-type throttle valves. For cold starting,
A extremely flammable, so take
extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
2 Disconnect the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery.
3 Remove the front screws from the left and
an enrichment circuit is actuated by a cable system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames right side covers (see Chapter 8).
and the choke lever mounted on the left or bare light bulbs near the work area, and 4 Mark and disconnect the breather
handlebar. don’t work in a garage where a natural from the rear of the fuel tank. On Californi
The exhaust system is a four-into-tw o gas-type appliance (such as a water models, mark and disconnect the evaporati
design with a crossover pipe. heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is emission hoses (see illustration).
Many of the fuel system service procedures present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, 5 Remove the two bolts that attach the front
are considered routine maintenance wear latex gloves when there’s a of the tank to the frame (see illustration).
items and for that reason are included in possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if 6 On D models, remove the two rear
Chapter 1. you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off mounting bolts (see illustration). On

2.4 Evaporative emissions hoses should be 2.5 To detach the front of the fuel tank 2.6a Remove the bolts (upper arrows); 1
labeled to prevent confusion during from the frame, remove these two bolts remove the inlet duct, remove the screws
reassembly (arrows) (lower arrows)
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*3

2.6b Remove the bolt that’s located just


underneath and ahead of this frame
crossmember

2.7 On E models, lift up the tank and


unplug the electrical connector for the fuel
level sensor 2.12a An exploded view of the fuel tank assembly (D models)

Emodels, there’s only one rear mounting bolt


(see illustration).
7 On E models, lift up the rear of the tank and
unplug the electrical connector for the fuel
sensor (see illustration).
8 Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tap.
Carefully lift the tank away from the
machine.

Cleaning and re p a ir
10 All repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional who has
experience in this critical and potentially
gerous work. Even after cleaning and
ishing of the fuel system, explosive fumes
can remain and ignite during repair of the
tank.
11 If the fuel tank is removed from the
vehicle, it should not be placed in an area
where sparks or open flames could ignite the
fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially
careful inside garages where a natural gas-
type appliance is located, because the pilot
light could cause an explosion.

Installation
12 Before installing the tank, check the
condition of the rubber bushings in the front
and rear mounting brackets (see
illustrations). If they're hardened, cracked, or
showany other signs of deterioration, replace
them. 2.12b An exploded view of the fuel tank assembly (E models)
4*4 Fuel and exhaust systems

3.5 Unplug connector (A), remove bolts (B), loosen clamps (C), 3.7 The fuel pump relay (arrow) is on the right side of the bike in
and label and detach the hoses front of the coolant reservoir

13 Installation is the reverse of removal. work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t Check
Make sure the tank seats properly and does smoke or allow open flames or bare light
not pinch any control cables or wires. If it’s bulbs near the work area, and don't work Fuel pump relay
difficult to align the holes in the tank brackets in a garage where a natural gas-type 7 The fuel pump relay is located on the right
with the holes in the frame, stop and check to appliance (such as a water heater or side of the bike (see illustration). To get at it,
see if a hose or cable is in the way. clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. remove the right side cover (see Chapter 8).
Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex 8 Pull the relay out of its rubber holder and
gloves when there’s a possibility of being unplug the electrical connector.
Fuel pump (E models) -
description, check and
| exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel
on your skin, rinse it off immediately with
9 Using a digital high-impedance (10 meg­
ohm) multimeter, set the ohmmeter scale to
component replacement I soap and water. Mop up any spills
immediately and do not store fuel-soaked
the 1 x K-ohms range and measure the
resistance at the indicated terminals (see
rags where they could ignite. When you illustrations). If your readings are not as
Description specified, replace the fuel pump relay,
perform any kind of work on the fuel
1 The fuel pump operates when the starter system, wear safety glasses and have a your readings are okay, check the fuel pump
button is depressed and, under certain fire extinguisher suitable for a class B type itself.
conditions, when the engine is running. When fire (flammable liquids) on hand. Caution: Using an analog meter without 10
the fuel level in the float chambers is low, the meg-ohm internal circuitry will produce
fuel pump supplies fuel to the carburetors; 2 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8). inaccurate results and damage the fuel
when the fuel reaches the predetermined 3 Disconnect the cable from the negative pump relay.
level, the fuel pressure rises and the fuel terminal of the battery.
pump goes off. The fuel pressure sensor is 4 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
Fuel pump
integral with the pump. Warning: To protect your eyes

A
5 Unplug the electrical connector for the
Removal pump (see illustration). from spilled or splashed
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is 6 Remove the pump mounting bolts (see kerosene, wear safety goggles
extremely flammable, so take illustration 3.5), detach the fuel hoses and during the following test
extra precautions when you remove the pump. procedure.

Fuel Pump Relay Internal Resistance

Range Tester (+ ) Lead Connection


x 1 kQ 1 2 3 4
* 1 - 00 00 oo
2 00 - 00 00
3 00 10-100 - 00
4 00 20-200 1- 5 -

*: Tester ( - ) Lead Connection

3.9a Resistance table for testing the electric fuel pump 3.9b Terminal guide for testing the electric
on E models fuel pump on E models
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*5

1 Fuel pump
2 Automotive-type fuel
pressure gauge
3 Outlet hose
4 Inlet hose
5 Fuel filter
6 Kerosene (paraffin)
7 2-pin connector
8 Battery
9 Jumper leads

3.11 This is the setup for testing the electric fuel pump on E models 3.13 An exploded view of the electric fuel
pump assembly used on E models

Note: If you don’t have a suitable automotive- gauge and compare this reading to the half of the housing forward to clear the hook
type fuel pressure gauge for this procedure, fuel pressure listed in this Chapter's and remove the housing.
lake the pump to a Kawasaki dealer and it Specifications. If the gauge reading is 5 On E models, detach the crankcase
tested there. outside that spec, the pump is defective - breather hose, remove the upper half of the
10 Remove the fuel pump (see Steps 2 replace it. housing (see Chapter 1), remove the screen,
through 6 above) and the fuel filter. remove the rear mounting bolts and remove
11 Fill a container with kerosene (paraffin) Installation the lower half of the housing assembly (see
andhook up the fuel pump, hoses and filter as 13 Installation is the reverse of removal (see illustrations). (Kawasaki also provides a pair
shown (see illustration). Connect a fuel illustration). Make sure the hose clamps are of removable plugs on the rear of the housing
pressure gauge to the high pressure side with all snug; if they’re not, replace them.
aT-fitting as shown.
Warning: Do NOT use gasoline

A for this test! It’s unnecessary


and dangerous.
12 Hook up the pump leads to a 12-volt
4 Air filter housing -
removal and installation
f|*

battery as shown (see illustration 3,11) and


notewhether the pump is energized: 1 Remove the seat and loosen the front
8) If the pump operates, check the pump screws on the side covers (see Chapter 8).
. relay. 2 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
b) If the pump does not operate, it's 3 On D models, remove the inlet duct (see
defective - replace it. illustration 2.6a).
Cj If the pump operates AND the fuel pump 4 On D models, remove the front screws (see
relay is also okay, close the outlet illustration 12.2a in Chapter 1) and the rear
I hose momentarily while the pump is bolt from the air filter housing (see 4.4 Remove the front screws and rear bolt
| running - when the pump stops, note the illustration), label and detach the drain hose (arrow) from the air filter housing
indicated pressure on the fuel pressure and crankcase breather hose, move the lower (D models)

4.5a Remove the screen . . . 4.5b . . . remove the rear mounting bolts 4.5c . . . and remove the air filter housing.
(arrows). . . Note the access plugs (arrows) on the
back of the housing
4*6 Fuel and exhaust systems

to allow you to get at the rear mounting bolts


without having to remove the upper half of the
housing; this is the faster removal method, but
you’ll still have to remove the upper half of the
housing when installing the bolts.)
6 Installation is the reverse of removal (see
illustrations). If you chose the fast
method to remove the air filter housing on an
E model, remove the upper half of the housing
(see Chapter 1); it’s very difficult to install the
rear bolts through the access holes in the
housing. Make sure all hoses are reattached
correctly.

5 Carburetors -
%
removal and installation
I
Removal
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is
extremely flammable, so take
/ J \ extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames
or bare light bulbs near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural
gas-type appliance (such as a water
heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is
present Since gasoline is carcinogenic,
wear latex gloves when there’s a
4.6a Air filter housing details (D models) possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if
you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it
off immediately with soap and water.
Mop up any spills immediately and do not
store fuel-soaked rags where they could
ignite. When you perform any kind of work
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses
and have a fire extinguisher suitable fora
class B type fire (flammable liquids) on
hand.
1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8). Remove
the fuel tank (see Section 2).
2 Remove the air filter housing (see
Section 4).
3 Disconnect the choke cable from the
carburetor assembly (see Section 11).
4 Loosen the lockwheel on the throttle cable
adjuster at the handlebar and turn the adjuster
in all the way (see illustration 4.3 in
Chapter 1). If this doesn’t give you sufficie
(California
slack in the cable to disconnect it from the
models) carburetors, disassemble the switch housin
and disconnect the cable from the twist grip
(see Section 10).
5 Mark and disconnect all vacuum hose-
from the carburetors. On UK E model
disconnect and plug the coolant hoses (see
Chapter 1).
6 Loosen the clamp screws on the intake
manifolds (the rubber tubes that connect the
carburetors to the engine) and pull the
carburetor assembly to the rear, clear of the
intake manifold tubes (see illustration).
7 Raise the carburetor assembly up far
4.6b Air filter housing details (E models) enough to disconnect the throttle cables from
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*7

5.6 Pull the carburetors out of the rubber intake boots (arrows 5.7a Lift the carburetor assembly, flip it over, pull the cable
point to two middle intake boots) toward the pulley to create some slack . . .

the throttle pulley (see illustrations), then Connect all vacuum hoses that were the carburetors are in need of maintenance
remove the carburetors. disconnected. before beginning a major overhaul.
8 After the carburetors have been removed, 15 Install the air filter housing (see Section 4). 3 Check the fuel tap filter, the fuel lines, the
stuff clean rags into the intake manifold tubes 16 Install the fuel tank, turn the fuel tap to gas tank cap vent, the intake manifold hose
toprevent the entry of dirt or other objects. PRI and check for leaks. clamps, the vacuum hoses, the air filter
17 Check and, if necessary, adjust the idle element, the cylinder compression, the spark
Installation speed and carburetor synchronization (see plugs, and the carburetor synchronization
9 Position the assembly over the intake Chapter 1). before assuming that a carburetor overhaul is
manifold tubes. Lightly lubricate the ends of 18 Install the seat (see Chapter 8). required.
thethrottle cables with multi-purpose grease 4 Most carburetor problems are caused by
and attach them to the throttle pulley. Make dirt particles, varnish and other deposits
sure the accelerator and decelerator cables 6 Carburetor overhaul - which build up in and block the fuel and air
arein their proper positions. general information passages. Also, in time, gaskets and O-rings
10 Tilt the front of the assembly down and shrink or deteriorate and cause fuel and air
Insert the fronts of the carburetors into the leaks which lead to poor performance.
intake manifold tubes. Push the assembly 1 Poor engine performance, hesitation, hard 5 When the carburetor is overhauled, it is
forward and tighten the clamps. starting, stalling, flooding and backfiring are generally disassembled com pletely and the
11 Adjust the throttle grip freeplay at the all signs that major carburetor maintenance parts are cleaned thoroughly with a carburetor
handlebar (see Chapter 1). may be required. cleaning solvent and dried with filtered,
12 Connect and adjust the choke cable (see 2 Keep in mind that many so-called unlubricated compressed air. The fuel and air
Section 11). carburetor problems are really not carburetor passages are also blown through with
13 Install the air filter housing (see Section 4). problems at all, but mechanical problems compressed air to force out any dirt that may
14 On UK E models, connect the coolant within the engine or ignition system have been loosened but not removed by the
lines to the carburetors (see Chapter 1). malfunctions. Try to establish for certain that solvent. Once the cleaning process is

5.7b ... disengage the throttle cables from the throttle pulley 5.7c . . . then remove the elbow-shaped cable housings from their
brackets on the carburetor
4*8 Fuel and exhaust systems

7.2a Remove the choke shaft spring (arrow ). . . 7.2b . . . and the three choke shaft screws .

complete, the carburetor is reassembled wear latex gloves when there’s a


using new gaskets, O-rings and, generally, a 7 Carburetors - disassembly, possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if
new inlet needle valve and seat. cleaning and inspection you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
6 Before disassembling the carburetors, immediately with soap and water. Mop up
make sure you have a carburetor rebuild kit any spills immediately and do not store
(which will include all necessary O-rings and Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
other parts), some carburetor cleaner, a
supply or rags, some means of blowing out
the carburetor passages and a clean place to
work.
A extremely flammable, so take
extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames
When you perform any kind of work on
the fuel system, wear safety glasses and
have a fire extinguisher suitable for a class
B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
or bare light bulbs near the work area, and
It is recommended that only Disassembly
HAYNES don’t work in a garage where a natural
one carburetor be gas-type appliance (such as a water 1 Remove the carburetors from the machine
overhauled at a time to heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is as described in Section 5. Set the assemb
avoid mixing up parts. present Since gasoline is carcinogenic, on a clean working surface. Note: Unless I
O-rings on the fuel and vent fittings betwe
the carburetors are leaking, don’t detach I
carburetors from their mounting brackets.
Also, work on one carburetor at a time to
avoid getting parts mixed up.
2 If the carburetors must be separated from
each other, remove the choke lever spring an
choke lever by removing the three screws (
six plastic washers (two washers per screw,
one on each side of the lever)
illustrations), then remove the screvi
securing the mounting plate to the carbure
(see illustrations). Mark the position of ead
carburetor and gently separate them, noting
how the throttle linkage is connected (se
7.2c . . . there are two plastic washers for 7.2d . . . separate the choke shaft from the illustration) and being careful not to lose i
each screw, one on each side of the choke carburetors springs or fuel and vent fittings that are pre
shaft. . . between the carburetors (see illustration).

7.2e Intake boot mounting screws 7.2f Intake boot mounting screws (arrows) 7.2g The synchronizing screws and
(arrows) (D models) (E models) springs (arrows) should look like this
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»9

1 Choke spring
2 Choke shaft
3 Throttle cable bracket
4 Carburetors
5 Mounting plate

7.2h Carburetor assembly details

3a Remove the vacuum chamber cover 7.3b . . . the screw that secures the choke
screws (arrows). . . cable bracket has a dowel pin . . .
4*10 Fuel and exhaust systems

7.3d . . . and separate the diaphragm from 7.3e Lift the throttle piston out 7.4a Separate the jet needle from the
its groove and the locating tab (arrow) throttle piston
from its notch

3 Remove the four screws securing


vacuum chamber cover to the carburetor
1 Choke plunger cap body. Lift the cover off and remove the pistol
2 Spring spring (see illustrations). Peel the diaphn
3 Choke plunger away from its groove in the carburetor body,
4 Screw being careful not to tear it (see illustratio
5 Vacuum chamber Lift out the diaphragm/piston assembly (see
cover illustration).
6 Vacuum piston 4 Remove the piston spring seat and
spring separate the needle from the piston (se
7 Spring seat illustrations).
8 Jet needle 5 Remove the four screws retaining the I
9 Throttle piston chamber to the carburetor body, then deti
10 Float chamber drain the chamber (see illustrations).
screw 6 Push the float pivot pin out and detach t
11 Float chamber float (and fuel inlet valve needle) from
gasket carburetor body (see illustrations). Detacl
12 Retaining screw
13 Floats
14 Float pivot pin
15 Carburetor body
16 Float chamber
17 Pilot screw plug (US
models)
18 Needle valve and
seat
19 Main je t
20 Needle je t holder
21 Pilot je t 1 7 --- Q
22 Pilot screw

7.5a Remove the float chamber cover


7.4b Carburetor - exploded view screw s. . .

7.5b . . . and lift off the cover 7.6a Loosen the screw shown . . . 7.6b . . . then push out the float
pivot pin . . .
Fuel and exhaust systems 4»11

7.6c ... and lift out the float, together with 7.6d Remove the retaining screw and lift 7.7 Prevent the needle jet holder from
the needle valve out the needle valve seat turning and unscrew the main jet with a
screwdriver

Ihevalve needle from the float. Remove the 9 Using a small, flat-bladed screwdriver, this, punch a hole in the plug with an awl or a
retaining screw and remove the needle valve remove the pilot jet (see illustrations). scribe, then pry it out. On all models, turn the
seat (see illustration). 10 The pilot (idle mixture) screw is located in pilot screw in, counting the number of turns
7 Unscrew the main jet from the needle jet the bottom of the carburetor body (see until it bottoms lightly. Record that number for
holder (see illustration). illustrations). On US models, this screw is use when installing the screw. Now remove
8 Unscrew the needle jet holder/air bleed hidden behind a plug which will have to be the pilot screw along with its spring, washer
pipe(see illustration). removed if the screw is to be taken out. To do and O-ring.

7.9a Unscrew the pilot jet

7.9b . . . and lift it out 7.10a The pilot screw on US models is beneath a
plug (arrow)
4*12 Fuel and exhaust systems

7.10b On installation, apply bonding agent 7.11a Unscrew the choke plunger cap with 7.11 b . . . and take out the spring and
around the plug a socket. . . plunger
1 Bonding agent 3 Pilot screw
2 Plug 4 Carburetor body minutes (or longer, if the directions rolling it on a flat surface (such as a piece of
recommend it). glass). Replace it if it’s bent or if the tip is w<
13 After the carburetor has soaked long 18 Check the needle jet and replace
enough for the cleaner to loosen and dissolve carburetor if it’s worn or damaged (i
most of the varnish and other deposits, use a illustration).
brush to remove the stubborn deposits. Rinse 19 Check the tip of the fuel inlet valve needle.
it again, then dry it with compressed air. Blow If it has grooves or scratches in it, it must t
out all of the fuel and air passages in the main replaced. Push in on the rod in the other end
and upper body. of the needle, then release it - if it doesn’t
Caution: Never clean the jets or passages spring back, replace the valve needle (see
with a piece of wire or a drill bit, as they illustration).
will be enlarged, causing the fuel and air 20 Check the O-rings on the float chamb
metering rates to be upset. and the drain plug (in the float chamber),
Inspection Replace them if they’re damaged.
21 Operate the throttle shaft to make i
14 Check the operation of the choke plunger.
7.15 Check the tapered portion (A) of the the throttle butterfly valve opens and ck
If it doesn’t move smoothly, replace it, along
pilot screw for wear or damage smoothly. If it doesn’t, replace the carbureto
with the return spring.
15 Check the tapered portion of the pilot 22 Check the floats for damage. This
11 The choke plunger can be removed by
unscrewing the nut that retains it to the screw for wear or damage (see illustration). usually be apparent by the presence of fuel
carburetor body (see illustrations) if the Replace the pilot screw if necessary. inside one of the floats. If the floats
choke shaft has been removed (see Step 2). 16 Check the carburetor body, float chamber damaged, they must be replaced.
and vacuum chamber cover for cracks, 23 Check the diaphragm for splits, holes i
Cleaning distorted sealing surfaces and other damage. general deterioration. Holding it up to a ligh
Caution: Use only a carburetor cleaning If any defects are found, replace the faulty will help to reveal problems of this nature.
solution that is safe for use with plastic component, although replacement of the 24 Insert the vacuum piston in the carburet!
parts (be sure to read the label on the entire carburetor will probably be necessary body and see that it moves up-and-down
container). (check with your parts supplier for the smoothly. Check the surface of the piston for
12 Submerge the metal components in the availability of separate components). wear. If it’s worn excessively or doesn’t i
carburetor cleaner for approximately thirty 17 Check the jet needle for straightness by smoothly in the bore, replace the carburetor.

Push and release

7.19 Check the tip of the fuel inlet valve needle for grooves <
7.18 Check the piston insert and the needle jet for wear or scratches
damage 7 Rod 2 Valve needle 3 Groove in tip
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*13

push up on the vacuum piston. Push down


8 Carburetors - reassembly and gently on the vacuum chamber cover - it
float height adjustment ^ should drop into place, indicating the

1 * diaphragm has seated in its groove.


8 Install the vacuum chamber cover,
Caution: When installing the jets, be tightening the screws securely. If you’re
careful not to over-tighten them - they’re working on the no. 3 carburetor, don’t forget
madeof soft material and can strip or to install the dowel and choke cable bracket
sheareasily. (see illustration 7.3b).
Note: When reassembling the carburetors, be 9 Invert the carburetor. Attach the fuel inlet
sure to use the new O-rings, gaskets and valve needle to the float. Set the float into
otherparts supplied in the rebuild kit. position in the carburetor, making sure the
11fthe choke plunger was removed, install it valve needle seats correctly. Install the float
in Its bore, followed by its spring and nut. pivot pin. To check the float height, hold the
Tighten the nut securely and install the cap. carburetor so the float hangs down, then tilt it
2 Install the pilot screw (if removed) along back until the valve needle is just seated (the
| -withits spring, washer and O-ring, turning it in rod in the end of the valve shouldn’t be
until it seats lightly. Now, turn the screw out compressed). Measure the distance from the
the number of turns that was previously float chamber gasket surface to the top of the 8.9 Measure float height with a vernier
recorded. If you're working on a US model, float (see illustration) and compare your caliper or similar tool
Install a new metal plug in the hole over the measurement to the float height listed in this
screw. Apply a little bonding agent around the Chapter’s Specifications. If it isn’t as along the edges of the bores. When the
circumference of the plug after it has been specified, carefully bend the tang that centerlines of the carburetors are all in
seated. contacts the valve needle up or down until the horizontal and vertical alignment, tighten the
3 Install the pilot jet, tightening it securely. float height is correct. mounting plate screws securely.
♦ Install the needle jet holder/air bleed pipe, 10 Install the O-ring into the groove in the 14 Install the choke lever, making sure it
tightening it securely. float chamber. Place the float chamber on the engages correctly with all the choke plungers
J Install the main jet into the needle jet carburetor and install the screws, tightening (see illustration). Position a plastic washer on
holder/air bleed pipe, tightening it securely. them securely. each side of the choke lever, except on the
6 Oropthe jet needle down into its hole in the 11 If the carburetors were separated, install no. 2 carburetor (see illustration) and install
vacuumpiston and install the spring seat over new O-rings on the fuel and vent fittings. the screws, tightening them securely. Install
i theneedle. Make sure the spring seat doesn’t Lubricate the O-rings on the fittings with a the lever return spring (see illustration 7.2a),
cover the hole at the bottom of the vacuum light film of oil and install them into their then make sure the choke mechanism
piston - reposition it if necessary. respective holes, making sure they seat operates smoothly.
1 Install the diaphragm/vacuum piston completely (see illustration 7.2h). 15 Install the throttle linkage springs (see
assembly into the carburetor body. Lower the 12 Position the coil springs between the illustration 7.2g). Visually synchronize the
spring into the piston. Seat the bead of the carburetors, gently push the carburetors throttle butterfly valves, turning the adjusting
diaphragm into the groove in the top of the together, then make sure the throttle linkages screws on the throttle linkage, if necessary, to
carburetor body, making sure the diaphragm are correctly engaged. Check the fuel and equalize the clearance between the butterfly
Isn't distorted or kinked. This is not always an vent fittings to make sure they engage valve and throttle bore of each carburetor.
easytask. If the diaphragm seems too large in properly also. Check to ensure the throttle operates
diameter and doesn’t want to seat in the 13 Install the lower mounting plate and install smoothly.
groove, place the vacuum chamber cover the screws, but don’t tighten them completely 16 If they were removed, install the throttle
over the carburetor diaphragm, insert your yet. Set the carburetors on a sheet of glass, stop screw, throttle cable bracket and the air
finger into the throat of the carburetor and then align them with a straightedge placed cleaner housing intake fittings.

8.14a Make sure the choke shaft engages all four plungers
I
8.14b Be sure to reinstall the plastic washers on both sides of the
(arrows) shaft
4*14 Fuel and exhaust systems

9.2a Loosen the float chamber drain


screw

9 Carburetors - f|>
fuel level adjustment \

Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is

A extremely flammable, so take


extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames
of the carburetor float chambers (all four will
be checked) (see illustrations). This is a clear
and top of the fuel level in the tube or gau
This distance is the fuel level - write it down
plastic tube graduated in millimeters. An on a piece of paper, screw in the drain scref'
or bare light bulbs near the work area, and
alternative is to use a length of clear plastic shut off the fuel flow, then move on to the next
don’t work in a garage where a natural
tubing and an accurate ruler. Hold the carburetor and check it the same way.
gas-type appliance (such as a water
graduated tube (or the free end of the clear 5 Compare your fuel level readings to the
heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is
plastic tube) against the carburetor body, as value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If
present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic,
shown in the accompanying illustration. If the the fuel level in any carburetor is not cont:
wear latex gloves when there’s a
Kawasaki tool is being used, raise the zero remove the float chamber and bend the tang
possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if
mark to a point several millimeters above the up or down (see Section 8), as necessa.
you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
bottom edge of the carburetor main body. If a then recheck the fuel level. Measure the float
immediately with soap and water. Mop up
piece of clear plastic tubing is being used, height with the carburetor tilted so that tho,
any spills immediately and do not store
make a mark on the tubing at a point several tang on the float just touches the needle rodin
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
millimeters above the bottom edge of the the float valve (see illustration). Not
When you perform any kind of work on the
carburetor main body. Bending the tang up increases the float height
fuel system, wear safety glasses and have
3 Unscrew the drain screw at the bottom of and lowers the fuel level - bending it down
a fire extinguisher suitable for a class B
the float chamber a couple of turns, then let decreases the float height and raises the fu
type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
fuel flow into the tube. Wait for the fuel level to level.
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2) and stabilize, then slowly lower the tube until the
the air filter housing (see Section 4). Connect zero mark is level with the fuel level mark on
an auxiliary fuel tank to the carburetors with a the carburetor body. Note: D on’t low er the 10 Throttle cables and grip - *
suitable length of hose, then support the zero mark below the bottom edge o f the removal, installation and
motorcycle in an upright position. carburetor then bring it back up - the reading adjustment
2 Attach Kawasaki service tool no. 57001- won’t be accurate.
1017 to the drain fitting on the bottom of one 4 Measure the distance between the mark
Throttle cables
Removal
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Section 2).
2 Loosen the accelerator cable lockwh
and screw the cable adjuster in.
3 Remove the cable/switch housing sere
(see illu s tra tio n ) and remove the front and
rear halves of the housing (see illustration'
4 Rotate the ends of the cables to align with
the slots in the throttle grip pulley, then detach
the cables from the pulley (see illustration).
5 Detach the accelerator cable, its guide and
the decelerator cable from the cable/switch
housing.
6 Loosen the throttle cable adjusters to
create slack in the cables, then detach the
cables from the throttle pulley (see
the needle rod illustrations 5.7a, 5.7b and 5.7c).
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*15

10.3a Remove the screws from the front half of the throttle 10.3b . . . and take the rear half off the handlebar
housing/switch assem bly.

1 Remove the cables, noting how they are inner cable through the slot in the bracket, correctly engaged with the housing (see
routed. then seat the cable housing in the bracket. illustration).
Installation 10 Repeat the previous step to connect the 14 From the front side of the handlebar,
8 Installation is basically the reverse of decelerator cable. connect the accelerator cable to the forward
removal. Make sure the cables are routed 11 Route the decelerator cable around the hole in the throttle grip pulley. Connect the
properly. Make sure they don’t interfere with backside of the handlebar and connect it to decelerator cable to the rearward hole (see
any other components and aren’t kinked or the rear hole in the throttle grip pulley. illustration).
bent sharply. 12 Seat the decelerator cable in the throttle 15 Install the front half of the cable/switch
9 Lubricate the end of the accelerator cable housing groove (see illustration). housing, making sure the locating pin
with multi-purpose grease and connect it to 13 Push the accelerator cable guide into engages with the hole in the handlebar (see
the throttle pulley at the carburetor. Pass the place, making sure the notched portion is illustration). If necessary, rotate the housing

10.4 Disconnect the cables from the 10.12 Slide the decelerator cable into its 10.13 Position the accelerator cable guide
throttle pulley slot in the housing in the housing

10.14 Engage the decelerator cable (A) and accelerator cable (B) 10.15 Make sure the pin (A) engages hole (B) in the handlebar
with the throttle pulley
4*16 Fuel and exhaust systems

11.2a Loosen the locknut (A), and back off 11.2b Pull the cable free of the bracket 11,3a Remove the choke cable/switch
the adjuster nut (B) to put some slack in and slide the cable through the slot in the housing screws . . .
the choke cable bracket

back and forth, until the locating pin drops 23 Push the throttle grip on. Install the grip Installation
into the hole and the housing halves mate end weight and tighten the screw securely. 5 Route the cable into position. Connect the
together. Install the screws and tighten them 24 Attach the cables following Steps 11 upper end of the cable to the choke lever.
securely. through 15, then adjust the cables following Make sure the cable guide seats properly in
A djustm ent the procedure outlined in Chapter 1, Throttle the housing (see illustration). Place the
operation/grip freeplay - check and housing up against the handlebar, making
16 Follow the procedure outlined in
adjustment. sure the pin in the housing fits into the hole in
Chapter 1, Throttle operation/grip freeplay -
check and adjustment, to adjust the cables. the handlebar. Install the screws, tightening
17 Turn the handlebars back and forth to 11 Choke cable - removal, them securely.
make sure the cables don’t cause the steering 6 Connect the lower end of the cable to the
installation and adjustment ^
to bind. choke lever. Pull back on the cable casing and
18 Install the fuel tank. connect it to the bracket on the no.
19 With the engine idling, turn the handlebars carburetor.
through their full travel (full left lock to full right Removal
lock) and note whether idle speed increases. If it 1 Remove the seat and fuel tank (see Adjustment
does, the cables are routed incorrectly. Correct Section 2).
this dangerous condition before riding the bike. 7 Check the freeplay at the choke plungi
2 Loosen the choke cable adjuster (see lever on the carburetor assembly. It shoul'
Throttle grip illustration). Pull the choke cable housing out move about two to three millimeters (1/8'
of its mounting bracket at the carburetor inch).
Rem oval
assembly, then pass the cable through the 8 If the freeplay isn’t as specified, follow
20 Follow Steps 2 through 4 to detach the
opening in the bracket (see illustration). cable to its mid-line adjuster above the engine
upper ends of the throttle cables from the
Detach the cable end from the choke lever. valve cover (it resembles the throttle cable
throttle grip pulley.
3 Remove the two screws securing the choke adjusters). Loosen the cable adjusting lockm
21 Remove the grip end weight and slide the
cable/switch housing halves to the left and turn the adjusting nut in or out, i
throttle grip off the handlebar.
handlebar (see illustration). Pull the front half necessary, until the freeplay at the lever
Installation of the housing off and separate the choke correct. Tighten the locknut.
22 Clean the handlebar and apply a light coat cable from the lever (see illustration). 9 Install the fuel tank and all of the other
of multi-purpose grease. 4 Remove the cable, noting how it’s routed. components that were previously removed.

11.3b . . . separate the housing halves and disengage the cable 11.5 Make sure everything is installed in the switch housing
from the lever before installing the housing halves
Fuel and exhaust systems 4*17

13.4 To detach a muffler, remove this bolt, washer and nut 13.5 Loosen the muffler-to-exhaust pipe clamp bolt

the machine doesn’t exceed the emissions 4 Remove the muffler mounting bolts and
12 Idle fuel/air mixture regulations. nuts (see illustration).
adjustment - 2 If the engine runs extremely rough at idle or 5 Loosen the clam ps which attach the
general information continually stalls, and if a carburetor overhaul mufflers to the exhaust pipe (see illustration),
does not cure the problem, take the slide the clamps back, and pull the mufflers to
1 Due to the increased emphasis on m otorcycle to a Kawasaki dealer service the rear to disengage them from the exhaust
controlling motorcycle exhaust emissions, departm ent or other repair shop equipped pipe.
certain governmental regulations have been with an exhaust gas analyzer. They will be 6 Remove the tw o bolts which attach the
formulated which directly affect the able to properly adjust the idle fuel/air mixture exhaust pipe to the underside of the bike (see
Carburetion of th is machine. In order to to achieve a smooth idle and restore low
illustration).
comply with the regulations, the carburetors speed performance.
7 Remove the exhaust pipe nuts and slide the
on some models have a metal sealing plug
holders off the mounting studs (see
pressed into the hole over the pilot screw
illustration). If the split keepers didn’t come
(Which c o n tro ls the idle fuel/air mixture) on
each c a rb u re to r, so they can’t be tampered 13 Exhaust system - off with the holders, remove them from the
with. These should only be removed in the removal and installation ^ pipes.
event of a complete carburetor overhaul, and 8 Installation is the reverse of removal (see
even then the screws should be returned to illustration overleaf), but be sure to install a
their original settings. The pilot screws on 1 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). new gasket at the connection point between
other models are accessible, but the use of an 2 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). the mufflers and the exhaust pipe, and make
exhaust gas analyzer is the only accurate way 3 Remove the radiator and oil cooler (see sure the clamps are properly positioned (see
to adjust the idle fuel/air mixture and be sure Chapter 3). illustrations overleaf).

13.6 To detach the exhaust pipe, remove the two bolts (arrow 13.7 To detach the exhaust from the cylinder head, remove the
only one bolt visible in this photo) eight nuts (arrows - not all are visible)
4*18 Fuel and exhaust systems

1 Always replace the exhaust pipe-to-m uffler gaskets and the


exhaust header gaskets
2 Replace the rubber bushings for the m uffler mounting bolts and
the exhaust mounting bolts as necessary
13.8b On early models with slits in the exhaust pipes, install the
clamps in relation to the slits
1 Clamps 2 Slits

13.8c On late models with projections on the pipes, install the


clamps so the groove fits the projection
1 Projection 2 Clamps 3 Groove
Chapter 5
Ignition system
Contents
■General information............................................................................. 1 Ignition stop switch - check, removal and installation .. See Chapter 9
ICigniter - removal, check and installation....................................... 6 Ignition system - c h e c k ...................................................................... 2
Ignition coils - check, removal and installation................................. 3 Pickup coils - check, removal and installation ................................. 4
Ignition (main) switch and key lock cylinder - check, removal Spark plug replacement..................................................See Chapter 1
and installation............................................................See Chapter 9 Timing rotor - removal and installation.............................................. 5

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for |k Fairly easy, suitable Jk Fairly difficult, Jk Difficult, suitable for ^k Very difficult, ^
novicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY ^
Iexperience some experience ^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional ^

Specifications
Ignition coil
rlmary resistance ....................................................................................... 2.3 to 3.5 ohms
ondary resistance................................................................................... 12.0 to 18.0 K-ohms
Arcing distance............................................................................................. 6 mm (1/64-inch) or more

Pickup coil
Air gap .................................................................................................... .... 0.4 to 0.6 mm (0.016 to 0.024 inch)
| Resistance ................................................................................................... 380 to 570 ohms

Ignition timing
D models
California models ..................................................................................... From 7.5° BTDC <§ 1300 rpm to 40° BTDC @ 3000 rpm
All other models ....................................................................................... From 12.5° BTDC §> 1050 rpm to 40° BTDC @ 3000 rpm
E models
California models ..................................................................................... From 5° BTDC @ 1300 rpm to 35° BTDC @ 5000 rpm
All other models ....................................................................................... From 12.5° BTDC @ 1050 rpm to 35° BTDC @ 5000 rpm

Torque specifications
Alternator cover b o lts ................................................................................... 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
L Pickup coil cover b o lts ................................................................................. 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
I|Timing rotor Allen bolt ............................................................................ .... 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
5*2 Ignition system

1.1a Ignition system circuit (US and Canadian D models)


1 IC igniter 7 Ignition coil (nos. 2 and 3 12 Junction box 18 Battery
2 4-pin connector cylinders) 13 Starter circuit relay 19 2-pin connector
3 6-pin connector 8 Spark plugs 14 Diodes 20 9-pin connector
4 Timing rotor 9 Starter button 15 10-pin connector 21 Sidestand switch
5 Pickup coil 10 Engine stop switch 16 Starter relay 22 Starter lockout switch
6 Ignition coil (nos. 1 and 4 11 Ignition switch 17 Main (30A) fuse 23 Neutral switch
cylinders)

O u

®I I ^^ I ®
oc cc
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116
o
~r
mwmwun
(D
1.1b Ignition system circuit (UK D models)
IC igniter 7 Ignition coil (nos. 2 and 3 12 Junction box 18 Battery
4-pin connector cylinders) 13 Starter circuit relay 19 2-pin connector
6-pin connector 8 Sparkplugs 14 Diodes 20 9-pin connector
Timing rotor 9 Starter button 15 10-pin connector 21 Sidestand switch
Pickup coil 10 Engine stop switch 16 Starter relay 22 Starter lockout switch
Ignition coil (nos. 1 and 4 11 Ignition switch 17 Main (30A) fuse 23 Neutral switch
cylinders)
Ignition system 5*3

1.1c Ignition system circuit (all E models)


1 ICigniter 7 Ignition coil (nos. 2 and 3 13 Starter circuit relay 19 2-pin connector
2 4-pin connector cylinders) 14 Diodes 20 9-pin connector
3 6-pin connector 8 Sparkplugs 15 10-pin connector 21 Sidestand switch
4 Timing rotor 9 Starter button 16 Starter relay 22 Starter lockout switch
5 Pickup coil 10 Engine stop switch 17 Main (30A) fuse 23 Neutral switch
;6 Ignition coil (nos. 1 and 4 11 Ignition switch 18 Battery 24 8-pin connector
t cylinders) 12 Junction box

isolated, the only cure for the problem is to the plug on the engine with the threads
General information replace the part with a new one. Keep in mind contacting the engine. If necessary, hold the
that most electrical parts, once purchased, spark plug with an insulated tool (see
can’t be returned. To avoid unnecessary illustration). Crank the engine over and make
expense, make very sure the faulty sure a well-defined, blue spark occurs
I This motorcycle is equipped with a battery- component has been positively identified between the spark plug electrodes.
before buying a replacement part. Warning: Don’t remove one of

A
operated, fully-transistorized, breakerless
ignition system (see illustrations). The the spark plugs from the engine
systemconsists of the following components: to perform this check - atomized
fuel being pumped out of the
Pickup coils
ICigniter unit
2 Ignition system - check
% open spark plug hole could ignite, causing
ttery and fuse
Inition coils
I severe injury!

Sparkplugs
Warning: Because of the very
Stop and main (key) switches
imary and secondary circuit wiring
• The transistorized ignition system functions
Oil the same principle as a conventional DC
A high voltage generated by the
ignition system, extreme care
should be taken when these
checks are performed.
Ignition system with the pickup unit and 1 If the ignition system is the suspected
iter performing the tasks normally cause of poor engine performance or failure to
ociated with the breaker points and start, a number of checks can be made to
ihanical advance system. As a result, isolate the problem.
ustment and maintenance of ignition 2 Make sure the ignition stop switch is in the
ponents is eliminated (with the exception Run or On position.
olspark plug replacement).
Because of their nature, the individual Engine will not start
ignition system components can be checked 3 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). 2.3 Ground (earth) a spark plug and
but not repaired. If ignition system troubles Disconnect one of the spark plug wires, operate the starter - bright blue sparks
occur, and the faulty component can be connect the wire to a spare spark plug and lay should be visible
5*4 Ignition system

2.5 Unscrew the spark plug caps from the plug wires and 2.14 Connect the tester - when the engine is cranked, sparks
measure their resistance with an ohmmeter should jump the gap between the nails

4 If no spark occurs, the follow ing checks repair shop equipped with the special tester
should be made: required. Ignition coils - check,
5 Unscrew a spark plug cap from a plug wire removal and installation
and check the cap resistance with an
Engine starts but misfires
ohmmeter (see illustration). If the resistance 12 If the engine starts but misfires, make the
is infinite, replace it with a new one. Repeat follow ing checks before deciding that the
ignition system is at fault. Check
this check on the remaining plug caps.
6 Make sure all electrical connectors are 13 The ignition system must be able to 1 In order to determine conclusively that
clean and tight. Check all wires for shorts, produce a spark across a seven m illimeter ignition coils are defective, they should
opens and correct installation. (1/4-inch) gap (minimum). A simple test fixture tested by an authorized Kawasaki dei
7 Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter (see Tool Tip) can be constructed to make service department which is equipped with the
sure the minimum spark gap can be jumped. special electrical tester required for this chi
and the specific gravity with a hydrom eter
Make sure the fixture electrodes are 2 However, the coils can be checked visui
(see Chapter 1). If the voltage is less than 12-
positioned seven millimeters apart. (for cracks and other damage) and the prii
volts or if the specific gravity is low, recharge
14 Connect one of the spark plug wires to and secondary coil resistances can
the battery.
the protruding test fixture electrode, then measured with an ohmmeter. If the coils
8 Check the ignition fuse and the fuse
attach the fixtu re ’s alligator clip to a good undamaged, and if the resistances are
connections. If the fuse is blown, replace it
engine ground (see illustration). specified, they are probably capable of pn
with a new one; if the connections are loose or
15 Crank the engine over (it will probably operation.
corroded, clean or repair them.
start and run on the remaining cylinders) and 3 To check the coils for physical damage,
9 Refer to Section 3 and check the ignition
see if well-defined, blue sparks occur must be removed (see Step 9). To check
coil primary and secondary resistance. resistances, simply remove the fuel tank (i
between the test fixture electrodes. If the
10 Refer to Section 4 and check the pickup Chapter 4), unplug the primary circuit el<
minimum spark gap test is positive, the
coil resistance. ignition coil for that cylinder (and its connectors from the coil(s) and remove
11 If the preceding checks produce positive companion cylinder) is functioning properly. spark plug wires from the plugs that
results but there is still no spark at the plug, Repeat the check on one of the spark plug connected to the coil being checked. Mark
remove the IC igniter and have it checked by a wires that is connected to the other coil. If the locations of all wires before disconnecting thi
Kawasaki dealer service department or other spark will not jump the gap during either test, 4 To check the coil primary resistance, atti
or if it is weak (orange colored), refer to one ohmmeter lead to one of the priman
TOOL Paragraphs 5 through 11 of this Section and terminals and the other ohmmeter lead to
perform the component checks described. other primary terminal (see illustration).

A simple spark gap testing fixture can


be constructed from a block of wood,
two nails, a large alligator clip, a screw 3.4 To check the resistance of the primary windings, connect the ohmmeter to the
and a piece of wire primary terminals (1); to check the resistance of the secondary (high tension) windings,
attach the the ohmmeter to the spark plug wires (2)
Ignition system 5*5

3,10a Remove the mounting bolts (arrows), and label and unplug 3.10b Remove the mounting bolts (arrows), and label and unplug
the leads (arrows) - D models the leads (arrows) - Emodels

Place the ohmmeter selector switch in the 10 Support the coil with one hand, remove
x 1 position and compare the measured the coil mounting bolts (see illustrations), 4 Pickup coils - check,
listance to the value listed in this Chapter’s and remove the coil from its bracket. Label removal and installation
Iflcations. the positive primary terminal on the coil (see
If the coil primary resistance is as specified, illustration) to ensure that the primary leads
eck the coil secondary resistance by aren’t accidentally switched during
rinecting the meter leads from the primary reassembly. Check
linals and attaching them to the spark plug 1 On D models, remove the seat (see Chapter
!Bterminals (see illustration 3.4). HAYNES If you’re removing both 8). On E models, remove the right side cover
Place the ohmmeter selector switch in the coils, it’s a good idea to (see Chapter 8).
x 100 position and compare the measured label the coils with the 2 On D models, remove the IC igniter (see
resistance to the values listed in this cylinder numbers to which illustration) from its “holster." On E models,
Chapter’s Specifications. they’re connected. unbolt the IC igniter (see Section 6). The
8 If the resistances are not as specified, pickup coil electrical lead consists of two
unscrew the spark plug wire retainers from the 11 Installation is the reverse of removal. If a wires (black wire and yellow wire) that exit the
coil, detach the wires and check the resistance new coil is being installed, unscrew the spark pickup coil cover on the right end of the
again. If it is now within specifications, one or plug wire terminals from the coil, pull the wires crankshaft and are routed along the right side
both of the wires are bad. If it’s still not as out and transfer them to the new coil. Make of the bike back to the igniter. Unplug the
specified, the coil is probably defective and sure the primary circuit electrical connectors connector from the bottom of the igniter (see
should be replaced with a new one. are attached to the proper terminals. Just in illustration). The pickup coil connector is the
case you forgot to mark the wires, the black smaller of the two multi-pin connectors on the
Removal and installation and red wires connect to the no. 1 and 4 bottom of the igniter (if it doesn’t have a black
9 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4), then ignition coil (red to positive, black to negative) wire and a yellow wire, you’ve got the wrong
disconnect the spark plug wires from the plugs. and the red and green wires attach to the no. 2 connector!).
Label them with tape to aid in reinstallation. and 3 coil (red to positive, green to negative). 3 Probe the term inals in the pickup coil

4.2a Unplug the pickup coil connector from the IC igniter 4.2b Unplug the pickup coil connector from the 2-pin connector
(D models) located underneath the IC igniter (E models)
5*6 Ignition system

4.3 Measure the resistance across the two pickup coil terminals 4.4 Measure the resistance between each pickup coil terminal
and ground

5 If the pickup coil fails either of the above 10 Route the electrical lead exactly the sad
tests, it must be replaced. way it was routed before.
11 Plug in the electrical connector, install the?]
Removal IC igniter and install the seat (D models) i
6 Remove the screws that secure the pickup side cover (E models) and seat.
coil cover to the engine case (see illustration)
and detach the cover from the engine.
7 Unscrew the pickup coil mounting screws 5 Timing rotor -
(see illustration) and remove the pickup coil. removal and installation
Note how the pickup coil wires are routed to
insure proper rerouting of the new wires.
Follow the wires back to the IC igniter and 1 Refer to Section 4 and remove the pick-up
unplug the connector. coil cover.
2 Hold the timing rotor with a wrench on its
4.6 To remove the pickup coil cover, Installation hex and remove the Allen bolt (see
remove these four bolts (arrows)
8 Install the new pickup coil unit and tighten illustration).
connector with an ohmmeter (see the screws securely. Apply silicone sealant to 3 Take the timing rotor off the crankshaft.
illustration) and compare the resistance the grommet for the electrical leads and push 4 Installation is the reverse of the removal |
reading with the range of resistance listed in the grommet into its notch in the case. steps, with the following additions:
this Chapter’s Specifications. 9 Apply silicone sealant to the “split-line” of a) Align the timing rotor notch with the pin on
4 Set the ohmmeter on the highest resistance the crankcase halves, then install the pickup the end o f the crankshaft (see illustration).
range. Measure the resistance between a coil cover. Make sure the cover is installed b) Hold the timing rotor hex with the same
good ground and each terminal in the pickup with the “ UP” mark facing upward. Tighten wrench used during removal and tighten
coil connector (see illustration). The meter the cover bolts to the torque listed in this the Allen bolt to the torque listed in this
should indicate infiniteresistance. Chapter’s Specifications. Chapter's Specifications.

4.7 Remove the screws (arrows), pull the grommet (arrow) for the 5.2 Hold the timing rotor with a wrench and remove the Allen bolt
leads out of its notch in the case
Ignition system 5*7

IC igniter - removal,
%
check and installation
I
Removal
1Remove the right side cover (see Chap­
ters).
2Unbolt the igniter (see illustration) and
unplug the electrical connectors.

Check
3According to Kawasaki, a special tester is
required to accurately measure the resistance 5.4 Align the notch in the timing rotor with 6.2 Remove the bolts (arrows), then pull
values across the various terminals of the IC the pin on the crankshaft (arrows) the igniter out and unplug the multi-pin
I Igniter. However, if you have a high- electrical connectors
impedance (10 meg-ohm) digital multimeter, measure the resistance at the specified other repair shop equipped with the special
youcan test the igniter yourself. terminals and compare your measurements to tester.
Caution: Using an analog meter without 10 the values listed in the resistance table for
meg-ohminternal circuitry will produce your model. If the igniter fails any test, replace
Installation
mcurate results and damage the IC it. If you’re in any doubt about the accuracy of 4 Plug in the electrical connectors, place the
Igniter. your readings, or if you don’t have a high- igniter in position, install the mounting bolts
Referring to the accompanying resistance impedance digital multimeter, take the unit to and tighten them securely.
tables and terminal guides (see illustrations), a Kawasaki dealer service department or 6 Install the side cover (see Chapter 8).

© d

6.3a Terminal guide for the IC igniter (D models)

6.3b Resistance table for IC the igniter (D models) (all values given in k-ohms)
5*8 Ignition system

Tester ( + ) Lead Connection


Terminal 1 2 3 4 5 6

1 - 00 oo 00 - -
c 2 00 - 0.08 - 0.18 36 - 78 - -
o
*-*
o
<D 3 00 0.08 - 0 .1 8 - 36 - 7 8 - -
c
c 4 00 32 - 78 32 - 78 - - -
oO
~o 5 - - - - - 00
CB
<u
_1 6 - - - - 32 - 132 -

7 - - - - 00 00
8 - - - - 6.5 - 16 6 .5 - 1 6 j
</>
0)
1— 9 - - - - 00 00
10 - - - - 1 8 -4 2 1 8 -4 2
11 - - - - 00 00
12 - - - - 1 .9 -5 2 .3 -6

Tester ( + ) Lead Connection


Terminal 7 8 9 10 11 12
1 - - - - - -
c 2 - - - - - -
o
'■M 3 - - - - - -
o
u
c 4 - - - - - -
c
o
O 5 00 00 oo op 00 oo
-Q
00

oo
CD
6 00 28 - 60 32 - 132 40 - 96 00

I
3
T 7 - 00 00 00 00 00

$CO 8 00 - 6.5 - 16 7.5 - 17 00 3.3 - 6.6


d) - 00 oo 00
K 9 00 00
00
—*

- 1 2 -3 2
w

10 00 7.5 - 17 00
I

11 00 oo 00 00 - 00
12 00 2.3 - 6 1.9-5 11-22 00 -
6.3c Resistance tab le for the IC igniter (E models) (all values given in k-ohms)

6.3d Terminal guide for the IC igniter (E models)


Chapter 6
Steering and suspension
Contents
Forkoil - replacement ........................................................ See Chapter 1 Steering head bearings - check and a d ju s tm e n t........... See Chapter 1
Forks - disassembly, inspection and re a sse m b ly................................ 4 Steering stem and bearings - removal, inspection
Forks - removal and installation ............................................................. 3 and installation ...................................................................................... 5
Frame- inspection and repair ...........................................See Chapter 8 Suspension - check .............................................................See Chapter 1
General information ................................................................................. 1 Swingarm bearings - check .................................................................... 8
Handlebars - removal and in sta lla tio n .................................................... 2 Swingarm bearings - replacement ........................................................ 10
Rear shock absorber and coil spring - removal and installation . . . 6 Swingarm - removal and in sta lla tio n ...................................................... 9
Rear suspension linkage - removal, check and installation .............. 7

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, |k Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult, ^
novicewith little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY* ^ suitable for expert DIY ^
experience ^ some experience gS DIY mechanic ^ mechanic v or professional >jS

Specifications
Front fork
Springfree length
Dmodels
■ Standard................................................................................................... .....415 mm (16.34 inches)
Minimum................................................................................................... .....407 mm (16.02 inches)
E1 and E2 models
I Standard................................................................................................... .....283.6 mm (11.17 inches)
I Minimum................................................................................................... .....278 mm (10.94 inches)
H E3-on models
Standard................................................................................................... .....412.3 mm (16.23 inches)
I Minimum................................................................................................... .....404 mm (15.91 inches)
Fork tube protrusion above upper triple clam p ..............................................15.0 to 16.5 mm (0.59 to 0.66 inches)

Rear shock absorber


Gas pressure (D models) ............................................................................... .....142 to 185 psi (10 to 13 bars)
Spring preload setting
Dmodels
I Standard................................................................................................... .....Spring free length minus 8 mm (0.31 inch)
Usable ra n g e ............................................................................................ .....Spring free length minus 8 to 17 mm (0.31 to 0.67 inch)
E1 and E2 models
Standard................................................................................................... .... Spring free length minus 15 mm (0.59 inch)
Usable ra n g e ............................................................................................ .....Spring free length minus 15 to 24 mm (0.59 to 0.94 inch)
I E3-on models
r Standard................................................................................................... .... Spring free length minus 10 mm (0.39 inch)
f Useable ra n g e .......................................................................................... .... Spring free length minus 10 to 19 mm (0.39 to 0.75 inch)
6*2 Steering and suspension

Torque specifications
Front forks
Oil drain bolt (D models o n ly ) .................................................................... 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)
Front axle pinch b o lt .............................................................................. .... 20 Nm (14.5 ft-lbs)
Rear shock absorber
Upper and lower bolts/nuts .................................................................. .... 59 Nm (43 ft-lbs)
Coil spring preload adjuster lock r in g ................................................... .... 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)
Tie-rod b o lts /n u ts ....................................................................................... 59 Nm (43 ft-lbs)
Steering head
Steering stem head nut
D m o d e ls............................................................................................. .... 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs)
E m o d e ls ............................................................................................. .... 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs)
Steering stem adjuster n u t .................................................................... .... 4.9 Nm (43 in-lbs) or hand tighten
Triple clamp/fork tube pinch bolts ( a ll) ..................................................... 20 Nm (14.5 ft-lbs)
Handlebar-to-upper triple clamp bolts
D m o d e ls............................................................................................. .... 20 Nm (14.5 ft-lbs)
E m o d e ls ............................................................................................. .... 23 Nm (16.5 ft-lbs)
Swingarm pivot b o lt/n u t................................................................................. 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)

conditions are found. When installing


1 General information 2 Handlebars - % handlebars, tighten the bolts to the torque
removal and installation listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

The front forks are a conventional coil- 1 The handlebars are individual assemblies Forks -
spring, hydraulically-damped telescopic type, that slip over the tops of the fork tubes, each removal and installation
designed to run at atmospheric pressure (i.e. being retained to the steering head by two
they’re not pressurized). Allen-head bolts. If the handlebars must be
The rear suspension consists of a single removed for access to other components,
nitrogen-charged shock absorber/coil spring such as the forks or the steering head, simply Removal
assembly, a rocker arm, two tie-rods and a pry out the caps, remove the bolts and slip the 1 Set the bike on its centerstand.
square-section aluminum swingarm. The handlebar(s) off the fork tubes (see 2 Remove the handlebars (see Section 2),
shock absorber has an adjuster knob at the illustrations). It isn’t necessary to disconnect Support them so the cables, wires and brake
bottom which allows three rebound damping the cables, wires or hoses, but it is a good hose aren’t strained or kinked.
settings. Setting 1, which provides weak idea to support the assembly with a piece of 3 On E models remove the small horn access
damping force, is for light loads, good roads wire or rope, to avoid unnecessary strain on panel from the upper fairing. (Removing this
and/or low speeds; setting 3, which produces the cables, wires and (on the right side) the panel provides access to the lower triple
the strongest damping force, is for heavy brake hose. clamp bolts.)
loads, bad roads and/or high speed. The coil 2 If the handlebars are to be removed 4 Unbolt the brake calipers (see Chapter 7)
spring preload can be adjusted by loosening a completely, refer to Chapter 9 for the master and hang them with pieces of wire or rope.
locknut and turning an adjusting nut at the cylinder removal procedure, Chapter 4 for the 5 Disconnect the speedometer cable and
upper end of the shock/coil assembly; the throttle grip removal procedure and Chapter 9 remove the front wheel (see Chapter 7).
range of adjustment - from soft to hard - for the switch removal procedure. 6 Remove the front fender/mudguard (see
compresses the spring from 8 mm (no 3 Check the handlebars for cracks and Chapter 8).
preload) to 17 mm (maximum preload). distortion and replace them if any undesirable 7 Loosen the fork upper and lower triple

2.1a To get to the handlebar bolts, pry out these two caps with a 2.1b You’ll need an Allen bit to remove the handlebar bolts
small screwdriver
Steering and suspension 6*3

3.7a To detach the fork tube from the bike, remove the upper 3.7b . . . and the lower triple clamps bolts (arrows) (the bodywork
triple clamp bolt (arrow). . . has been removed for clarity)

clamp bolts (see illustrations), then slide the bolt. If this happens, the usual next step is to
lork tubes down, using a twisting motion. It 4 Forks - disassembly, ^ use an air tool, if you have it. If not, have an
isn’t necessary to remove the fairing to get to inspection and reassembly ^ assistant push the inner fork tube firmly into
the lower clamp bolts; simply remove the the slider; compressing the fork spring is often
small horn access panel on the underside of sufficient to lock the piston cylinder into place
theupper fairing. while the bolt is loosened. If that doesn't work,
Disassembly try compressing the fork spring and loosening
If the fork legs are seized, Note: Work on one fork leg at a time to avoid the bolt with your air tool. And if that doesn’t
spray the area with work? Borrow or buy the special Kawasaki
St penetrating oil and allow
time for it to soak in before
mixing up the parts.
1 On D models, you can drain the fork oil (see holder and adapter (tool no. 57001-183 and
no. 57001-1057) or a suitable equivalent (see
Chapter 1) before removing the forks. On E
trying again. models, there are no drain screws in the fork illustration), or have a dealer service
legs, so you can’t drain the fork oil until the department loosen the bolt. When removing
the Allen bolt, retrieve the old copper sealing
Installation fork is removed from the bike.
washer (see illustration) and discard it;
8 Slide each fork leg into the lower and upper 2 Remove the forks (see Section 3).
sometimes, this washer sticks to the lower end
triple clamps and snug the triple clamp bolts, 3 Place the fork leg in a bench vise (clamp the
of the outer fork tube, then you forget about it
but don't torque them yet. Pull each tube up vise jaws onto the brake caliper bosses on the
until it's protruding the specified amount about slider; do not clamp onto the friction surface
the upper triple clamp, then tighten the triple of the fork tube itself). Remove the top plug,
clamp bolts tightly enough to hold the tubes in spacer, washer and spring (see Section 25 in
place. Do NOT torque any of the triple clamp Chapter 1).
bolts until the front wheel is installed. 4 Pour out the fork oil, if you haven’t already
9 Install the front fender/mudguard (see drained it.
Chapter 8). 5 Place the fork leg back in the bench vise
10 Install the front wheel (see Chapter 7). again. To finish disassembling the fork, you
11 Tighten the clamp bolts to the torque must remove the large Allen bolt in the bottom
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. of the slider. This bolt attaches the piston
12 The remainder of installation is the reverse cylinder unit to the slider (the outer fork tube).
of removal. Be sure to tighten all fasteners to Sometimes (if you’re lucky), this step can be as
thespecification listed in the Chapter in which easy as inserting an Allen key into the bolt and
that particular component is covered. unscrewing it (see illustration). More often (if 4.5a If the bolt isn’t too tight, you’ll be able
13 Pump the front brake lever several times you’re not), the bolt is too tight and the piston to remove it with an Allen wrench
tobring the pads into contact with the discs. cylinder unit turns when you try to loosen the

4.5b This is the setup you’ll need if the slider-to-piston cylinder bolt is really tight:
1 Cylinder holder handle (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-183) 4 Allen wrench
2 Cylinder holder adapter (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-1057) 5 Fork leg clamped 4.5c Remove and discard the old sealing
I Piston cylinder unit in vise washer
6*4 Steering and suspension

4.6 Pry the dust seal from the outer fork tube with a small 4.7 Pry the retainer ring out of the outer fork tube with a small
screwdriver and slide it up the tube screwdriver

4.8 Grasp the inner and outer fork tubes, and pull them in
opposite directions with a few sharp jerks 4.9 Invert the inner fork tube and remove the piston cylinder unit
A Washer B Oil seal C Retaining ring D Dust seal and spring

during reassembly. This washer must be damper rod base - the small conical-shaped diameter end of the tube, and is seated
replaced when the fork is reassembled. aluminum piece th a t’s in the bottom of the against a shoulder (see illustration). You
6 Pry the dust seal from the outer tube (see outer fork tube below the piston cylinder unit need not remove either bushing unless it
illustration). If you plan to reuse the dust seal, (see illustration 4.5b). appears worn or scratched. If it's necessary
make sure you don’t slide it over rust spots or 11 There are two guide bushings at the lower to replace the inner tube guide bushing (the
scratches on the fork tube, or you will ruin it. end of the inner fork tube. A (smaller) inner one that doesn’t slide up and down, on
Note that the fork protector fitted to E7-on tube guide bushing and a (larger) outer tube the bottom of the inner tube), pry it apart a;
models should not be removed from the top guide bushing; the outer bushing slides freely the slit and slide it off; the outer tube guide
of the outer tube unless it requires renewal, in up and down the fork tube but the inner bushing can then be removed (see
which case ensure that its protective shield bushing fits tightly to a slightly smaller illustrations).
faces the front of the m otorcycle when the
forks are installed.
7 Pry the retaining ring from its groove in the
outer tube (see illustration). Remove the ring;
do not distort this ring any more than
necessary or you will have to use a new ring
during reassembly.
8 To separate the inner and outer fork tubes,
hold the outer tube and yank the inner tube
upward repeatedly (like a slide hammer); the
outer tube bushing on the inner fork tube will
pop loose the washer and seal from the outer
tube (see illustration).
9 Slide the seal and washer off the inner tube. 4.11a The bushings on the lower end of
Invert the tube and remove the piston cylinder the inner fork tube: 4.11b To remove the inner tube guide
unit (see illustration). 1 Inner tube guide bushing 3 Washer bushing, pry it apart at the slit and slide it
10 Invert the outer tube and retrieve the 2 Outer tube guide bushing 4 Seal off
Steering and suspension 6*5

the inner and outer fork tubes, the guide length listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If
bushings and the damper rod for score marks, it’s defective or sagged, replace both fork
scratches, flaking of the chrome and excessive springs with new ones. Never replace only
or abnormal wear. Look for dents in the tubes one spring.
and replace them if any are found. Check the
fork seal seat for nicks, gouges and scratches.
If damage is evident, leaks will occur around Reassembly
the seal-to-outer tube junction. Replace worn 15 Reassembly is basically the reverse of
or defective parts with new ones. disassembly (see illustration), with the
13 Have the fork inner tube checked for following special instructions:
runout at a dealer service department or other a) To seat the large bushing in the outer fork
repair shop.
tube, place the old bushing against the
Warning: If the fork inner tube is

A
new bushing after the tubes are
4.11c The outer tube guide bushing can bent, it should not be assembled. Make sure that, when
nowbe removed by simply sliding it off straightened; replace it with a installed, the split in the new bushing
new one. faces to one side - not to the front or rear
Inspection 14 Measure the overall length of the long - o f the fork tube, then tap against the
12 Clean all parts in solvent and blow them spring and check it for cracks and other washer with a fork seal driver (Kawasaki
dry with compressed air, if available. Check damage. Compare the length to the minimum tool no. 57001-1340 o ra suitable

1 Triple clamp pinch bolts


2 Upper triple clamp
3 Lower triple clamp
4 Top bolt and damping
adjustment r o d -
E3-on models
5 Retaining ring - D models and
E1, E2 models
6 Top plug
7 O-ring
8 Spacer
9 Washer (spring seat)
10 Spring
11 Piston cylinder unit bolt
12 Sealing washer
13 Dust seal
14 Retaining ring
15 Seal
16 Washer
17 Outer tube guide bushing
18 Slider (outer fork tube)
19 Inner fork tube
20 Piston cylinder unit
21 Washer
22 Spring
23 Cylinder base
24 Inner tube guide bushing

4.15a An exploded view of the front suspension assembly


6*6 Steering and suspension

4.15b Using a split-type seal driver (this is a Kent-Moore, but any 4.15c . . . tap down gently and repeatedly to seat the bushings
suitable equivalent will w o rk ). . .

4.15d Piston cylinder assembly 4.15e Wrap the top of the fork tube with 4.15f Tap the seal into place until it seats
Install the piston cylinder unit (1) into the inner tape to prevent the lip on the new seal in the outer fork tube (half of the driver
fork tube (2). Install the cylinder base (3) on from damage removed for clarity)
the extended end o f the piston cylinder. Slip
the outer fork tube (4) over the piston the lower end o f the unit (the damper rod) washer on the damper rod bolt. Apply
cylinder/inner fork tube and secure with the into the cylinder base (see illustration). non-permanent thread locking agent to
bolt and sealing washer You can't install the cylinder base through the threads and tighten the bolt to the
the fork tube! Then invert the outer fork torque listed in this Chapter’s
tube (axle end up), insert the reassembled Specifications.
equivalent) (see illustrations); make sure fork tube, piston cylinder unit and cylinder Wrap the end o f the inner fork tube with
the inner tube guide bushing is seated base into the outer fork tube and install tape to protect the oil seal while it’s
firmly against the shoulder, the damper rod bolt. Use a new sealing installed (see illustration). Drive in the
b) When reassembling and installing the seal with the same tool used to install the
piston cylinder unit, install the piston bushing, then install the retaining ring and |
cylinder unit into the fork tube, then insert HAYNES make sure it's securely seated in its
groove (see illustrations).
Install the dust seal and make sure it's
securely seated in the outer fork tube.
Install the forks (see Section 3) and on E3, j
E4 and E5 models, check the adjustment^
settings (see Section 11).

Steering stem and bearings -


removal, inspection and
installation
If you don’t have a bushing/seal driver
tool, PVC plumbing fittings o f the Rem oval
appropriate inside diameter work just 1 If the steering head bearim
4.15g Compress the retaining ring and fit fine as drivers check/adjustm ent (see Chapter 1) doesr
it securely into its groove remedy excessive play or roughness in the I
Steering and suspension 6«7

1 Fork tube pinch bolt


2 Fork tube pinch bolt
3 Steering stem head nut cap
4 Steering stem head nut
5 Steering stem head nut washer
6 Upper triple clamp
7 Lockwasher
8 Adjuster nut
9 Bearing cover
10 O-ring
11 Upper steering head bearing
12 Upper steering head bearing race
13 Lower triple clamp
14 Lower steering head bearing race
15 Lower steering head bearing
16 Grease seal

5.3 An exploded view of the steering stem and bearing assembly (D models)

sieering head bearings, the entire front end called the fork bridge or crown). Unless you 6 Unbolt the brake hose union (the metal
must be disassembled and the bearings and plan to replace the upper triple clamp, it isn’t pipe that serves as the junction between
taces replaced with new ones. necessary to remove the handlebars - just set the hose from the master cylinder and the two
2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). the upper triple clamp aside with everything hoses to the front brake calipers) from
3 On D models, remove the steering stem nut attached. the lower triple clamp (see Chapter 7). It
cover (see illustration). 5 If there’s any strain on the electrical leads isn’t necessary to disconnect the hydraulic
4 Remove the steering stem head nut (see between the ignition main (key) switch and the hoses, but make sure no strain is placed on
illustration overleaf) and washer, loosen the main harness, unplug the electrical them.
upper triple clamp-to-fork tube pinch bolts, connectors for the main switch (see 7 Remove the front forks (see Section 3).
then lift off the upper triple clamp (sometimes Chapter 9). 8 On D models, remove the lockwasher from
6*8 Steering and suspension

1 Fork tube pinch bolt


2 Fork tube pinch bolt
3 Steering stem head nut
4 Steering stem head nut washer
5 Upper triple clamp
6 Locknut
7 Adjuster nut
8 Bearing cover
9 O-ring
10 Upper steering head bearing
11 Upper steering head bearing race
12 Lower triple clamp
13 Lower steering head bearing race
14 Lower steering head bearing
15 Grease seal

5.4 An exploded view of the steering stem and bearing assembly (E models)

the stem adjuster nut (see illustration). (E


models do n ’t use this lockwasher; they use
two identical castellated nuts - the upper one
is the locknut and the lower one is the
adjuster nut.)
9 Using a spanner wrench (C-spanner),
remove the stem adjuster nut (D models) or
the locknut and adjuster nut (E models), and
the bearing cover (see illustrations), while
supporting the lower triple clam p (so that it
doesn’t fall out of the steering head when the
adjuster nut is removed).
10 Remove the steering stem /low er triple
clamp assembly. If it’s stuck, gently tap on the
top of the steering stem with a plastic mallet 5.8 Lift the lockwasher off the steering 5.9a . . . remove the adjuster nut with a
or a hammer and a wood block. stem . . . spanner wrench (C-spanner),
Steering and suspension 6*9

5.9b . . . and lift off the nut and bearing cover 5.11 Lift the upper steering head bearing out of the steering head

5.14a Drive out the bearing races with the 5.14b . . . or insert a drift from above to 5.14c Kawasaki’s special tools for
special Kawasaki tool (no. 57001-1107) or drive out the race pressing the races into the steering head
a similar to o l. . . 1 Driver press shaft (tool no. 57001-1075)
11 Remove the upper bearing (see amount of wear or damage is evident, the 2 Driver (tool no. 57001-1106)
Illustration). races should be replaced with new ones. 3 Driver (tool no. 57001-1076)
14 To remove the races, drive them out of the
Inspection steering head with Kawasaki tool no. 57001 - installation will be easier if the new races are
12 Clean all the parts with solvent and dry 1107 or a hammer and drift punch (see left overnight in a refrigerator. This will cause
them thoroughly, using compressed air, if illustrations). A slide hammer with the proper them to contract and slip into place in the
available. If you do use compressed air, don’t internal-jaw puller will also work. Since the frame with very little effort. When installing the
let the bearings spin as they’re dried - it could races are an interference fit in the frame, races, use Kawasaki press shaft no. 57001-
ruin them. Wipe the old grease out of the
1075 and drivers no. 57001-1106 and 57001-
frame steering head and bearing races.
1076 (see illustration), or tap them gently into
13 Examine the races in the steering head for
place with a hammer and punch or a large
ks, dents, and pits. If even the slightest
socket. Do not strike the bearing surface or
the race will be damaged.
15 Check the bearings for wear. Look for
cracks, dents, and pits in the races and flat
spots on the bearings. Replace any defective
parts with new ones. If a new bearing is
required, replace both of them as a set.
16 Check the grease seal under the lower
bearing and replace it with a new one if
necessary (see illustration); the wider side of
the grease seal goes down.
17 To remove the lower bearing and grease
removing the lower bearing and grease seal from the steering stem, use a bearing
seal puller (Kawasaki tool no. 57001-158),
1 Bearing puller (tool no. 57001-158) combined with adapter no. 57001-317 (see
5.16 Remove the lower bearing and 2 Adapter (tool no. 57001-137) illustration). A bearing puller, which can be
grease seal from the steering stem only if 3 Lower bearing rented, will also work. Don’t remove this
they’re to be replaced 4 Steering stem bearing unless it, or the grease seal
6*10 Steering and suspension

5.20 Work the grease completely into the 5.22a Install the upper bearing and the
rollers steering stem O-ring
1 Stem bearing driver (tool no. 57001-137)
2 Adapter (tool no. 1074)
6 Rear shock absorber and
coil spring - removal and 4
installation ^

Warning: Do not attempt to

A disassemble this shock


absorber. It is nitrogen-charged
under high pressure. Improper
disassembly could result in serious injury.
Instead, take the shock to a dealer service
department with the proper equipment to
do the job.
1 Set the bike on its centerstand.
2 Remove the side covers (see Chapter 8).
5.22b Install the bearing cover and tighten 3 Using a socket on a long extension;i
the adjuster nut until all play has been 5.23 Install the lockwasher, making sure it
inserted through the hole in the frame, hold
removed engages the notches in the nut
the upper shock mounting bolt from the I
underneath, must be replaced. Removal will steering head bearings. However, don’t side of the bike, then loosen the nut on the
damage the grease seal, so replace it overtighten the adjuster nut, or the steering other side using the same technique (:
whenever the bearing is removed. will be too firm and the new bearings and/or illustration). Don’t remove it yet.
18 Inspect the steering stem/lower triple races will wear out prematurely. 4 Remove the shock absorber lower nut and
clamp for cracks and other damage. Do not 23 Once the adjuster nut is tight and all bolt and the tie-rod lower nut and bolt (see
attempt to repair any steering components. bearing play has been removed, install the illustration).
Replace them with new parts if defects are lockwasher (D models), or the locknut (E 5 Remove the upper nut and bolt. Pull the tie-
found. models), then install the upper triple clamp on rods back and lower the shock absorber from
19 Check the O-ring under the bearing cover the steering stem (see illustration). Install the the bike.
- if it’s worn or deteriorated, replace it. washer and steering stem head nut and 6 Installation is the reverse of the removal
20 Pack the bearings with high-quality tighten the stem head nut to the torque listed procedure. Tighten the shock absorber ano
grease (preferably a moly-based grease) (see in this Chapter’s Specifications. tie-rod nuts/bolts to the torque values listed in
illustration). Coat the outer races with grease 24 On D models, install the steering stem this Chapter’s Specifications.
also. head nut cap.
21 Install the grease seal and lower bearing 25 The remainder of installation is the reverse
onto the steering stem. Drive the lower bearing of removal.
onto the steering stem using Kawasaki stem
bearing driver no. 57001-137 and adapter no.
57001-1074 (see illustration). If you don’t
have access to these tools, a section of pipe
with a diameter the same as the inner race of
the bearing can be used. Drive the bearing on
until it’s fully seated.

Installation
22 Insert the steering stem/lower triple clamp
into the steering head. Install the upper
bearing, O-ring, bearing cover and adjuster
nut (see illustrations). Using the spanner 6.4 Remove the shock-to-rocker arm nut
wrench (C-spanner), tighten the adjuster nut and bolt (1) and the rocker arm-to-tie rod
while moving the lower triple clamp back and 6.3 Hold the upper shock mounting bolt nut and bolt (2)
forth. Continue to tighten the nut, 1/8-turn at a (arrow), then loosen the nut on the other The upper end of the tie-rods are connected
time, until all play has been removed from the side to the swingarm by a bolt and nut (3)
Steering and suspension 6*11

7,4 Remove the nut and bolt which attach the rocker arm to the 7.5 Inspect the needle bearings inside the rocker arm
frame (arrow)

2 Remove the nut and bolt that attach the Check


7 Rear suspension linkage - shock absorber and the tie-rods to the rocker 5 Inspect the bearings and sleeves (see
removal, check and installation ^ arm (see illustration 6.4). illustration) with a flashlight.
3 Remove the nut and bolt that attach the tie- 6 If the bearings or the sleeves look dry, dirty
rods to the swingarm (see illustration 6.4) or worn, push out the sleeves and pry off the
and remove the tie-rods. grease seals (see illustrations).
Removal 4 Remove the nut and bolt that attach the 7 Remove the needle bearings out of the
1 Set the bike on its centerstand. rocker arm to the frame (see illustration). rocker arm and swingarm with an oil
seal/bearing remover tool (Kawasaki tool no.
r 57001-1058 or a suitable equivalent). They
1 Upper shock bolt
nut
2 Upper shock bolt
3 Lower shock bolt
nut
4 Lower shock bolt

I5 Shock absorber/coil
spring assembly
Rocker arm pivot
6 bolt nut
7 Rocker arm pivot
bolt
8 Tie rod-to-rocker
arm bolt nut
9 Tie rod-to-rocker
arm bolt
7.6b Push the sleeves out of the rocker
10 Tie rod-to-swingarm
arm (shown) and the swingarm (not shown)
bolt nut
II Tie rod-to-swingarm
bolt
12 Tie rods
13 Rocker arm
14 Dust seals
15 Sleeves
16 Needle bearings

7.6c Pry out the dust seals from the


rocker arm (shown) and the
7.6a An exploded view of the suspension linkage assembly: swing arm (not shown)
6*12 Steering and suspension

7.7 Knock out the old needle bearings with a hammer and punch 7.9 Be sure to coat the sleeves with moly-based grease before
installing them

7.10 Drive in the new needle bearings with a socket that just fits 7.11 Install new dust seals (arrows)
into the bore of the rocker arm

can also be driven out with a hammer and junction of the swingarm and the frame. TrytoJ
punch (see illustration). 8 Swingarm bearings - %> move the rear of the swingarm from side-tofl
8 Thoroughly wash all parts in clean solvent, check side. Any wear (play) in the bearings should t
then inspect both the sleeves and the felt as movement between the swingarm am
bearings for dryness, discoloration, excessive the frame at the front. The swingarm
wear and general deterioration. If either the 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7), actually be felt to move forward and backwan|
sleeves or the bearings are worn, replace then remove the rear shock absorber (see at the front (not from side-to-side). If any pte
them as a set. Section 6). is noted, the bearings should be replaced witlf|
9 Apply a thin coat of moly-based grease to 2 Grasp the rear of the swingarm with one new ones (see Section 10).
the sleeves before installing them (see hand and place your other hand at the 3 Next, move the swingarm up and dow
illustration). through its full travel. It should move freely;|
10 Pack the bearings with m oly-based without any binding or rough spots. If it doei
grease before installing them. You’ll need a not move freely, refer to Section 10 to
bearing driver set (Kawasaki tool no. 57001- servicing procedures.
1129 or a suitable equivalent) to install the
bearings. Or, install new bearing sets by
driving them in with a hammer and a socket of
the appropriate size (see illustration). 9 Swingarm -
11 Install the dust seals on either end of each removal and installation ,
sleeve and bearing set (see illustration);
make sure the seals are properly seated -
flush with the ends of the sleeves - or the 1 Raise the bike and set it on its centerstand.
rocker arm w on 't fit between the frame 2 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).
bracket or the tie rods. 3 Detach the torque arm from the swinga
12 Installation is otherwise the reverse of (see illustration). Support the rear brake
removal. Tighten all fasteners to the torque 9.3 To disconnect the torque arm from the caliper and torque arm with a piece of rope c
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. swingarm, remove this nut (arrow) and bolt wire - don’t let them hang by the brake hose,
Steering and suspension 6*13

9.4 Pry off this protective cap on the left


side of the bike and loosen the nut
underneath

10.2b An exploded view of the swingarm assembly:


1 Swingarm pivot bolt nut 7 Needle bearing 13 Chain adjuster nut
10.2a Slide the sleeve out of the front of
the swingarm 2 Swingarm pivot bolt 8 Sleeve 14 End cap
3 Collar 9 Swingarm 15 Chain adjuster bolt
4 Seal 10 Chain guard bolt 16 Chain adjuster
4Remove the swingarm pivot nut (see 5 Snap-ring 11 Chain guard 17 Axle holder
illustration). Don’t remove the pivot bolt yet. 6 Ball bearing 12 Chain adjuster locknut 18 Chain guide
5 Detach the tie-rods and the shock absorber sure the bearing seals are in position before 2 Slide out the sleeve (see illustrations).
fromthe rocker arm (see Section 7). Support installing the pivot shaft. Tighten the pivot 3 Remove the collars and pry out the seals
Iheswingarm while doing this. shaft nut and the shock absorber and tie-rod (see illustrations).
6 Pry off the cap on the other side of the lower mounting bolts/nuts to the torque 4 To remove the ball bearing from the right
fame, support the swingarm and pull out the values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. end of the swingarm, remove the snap-ring
pivot bolt. Remove the swingarm. If Adjust the chain as described in Chapter 1. (see illustration 10.2a).
necessary, remove the bolts and detach the 5 Refer to Section 7, Steps 7 through 10 for
tie-rods from the swingarm. the bearing service procedures.
7 Check the pivot bearings in the swingarm 10 Swingarm bearings - ^ 6 Make sure the new seal faces are flush
for dryness or deterioration. If they’re in need replacement ^ with the side of the swingarm as shown
Of lubrication or replacement, refer to (see illustration) before installing the
Section 10. collars.
8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be 1 Remove the swingarm (see Section 9). 7 Install the swingarm (see Section 9).

10.3a Remove the collar(s) from the 10.3b Pry out the seals with a screwdriver 10.6 Make sure the seal faces are flush
grease seal(s) with the pivot boss of the swingarm
6*14 Steering and suspension

11 Suspension - adjustment

Front fork preload adjustm ent -


E3-on models
1 Spring preload is adjusted by rotating the
fork top bolt using an open-end wrench on
the two flats provided. Turning the adjuster in
(clockwise) increases preload, and turning it
out decreases preload. adjustm ent
2 The adjuster has 8 preload positions, 11.3 Front fork damping adjuster positions A Adjuster nut C Spring length
indicated by grooves around the adjuster B Locknut
body. Position 8 (adjuster fully extended) is
the softest position, and position 1 (fully in) is setting otherwise dangerous handling will previously. Hold the adjuster nut whilst the]
the hardest. The standard position for a rider result locknut is tightened against it.
of average build (68 kg, 150 lb) is 5 grooves 7 Install the shock absorber as described lifl
R ear shock spring p reload Section 6.
exposed, ie 16 mm from the top of the
preload adjuster to the top of the fork top bolt
adjustm ent - a ll models
4 Remove the shock absorber from the bike R ear shock unit damping
hex. Set both forks to the same preload
setting otherwise dangerous handling will (see Section 6). adjustm ent - a ll models
result. 5 Using a C-wrench, back off the adjuster 8 The shock absorber damping adjuster |3
locknut, then unscrew the adjuster nut until situated at the bottom of the shock in the; I
Front fork dam ping adjustm ent - the spring is under no load. Measure the free center of the mounting bracket. There arel
E3-on models length of the spring at this point and deduct three damping positions, numbered 1,2 and3
3 The damping adjuster is located in the the specified figure to arrive at the spring on the adjuster wheel and an index mark o ij
centre of the preload adjuster and is adjuster length when compressed (see illustration). the shock body.
using a flat-bladed screwdriver. There are four Refer to the Specifications section of this 9 Rotate the adjuster wheel until the positiof
damping settings, identified by clicks (see chapter for the standard amount of preload required clicks into place and the number o ii
illustration). Turn the adjuster fully clockwise and also for the range of adjustment for the wheel aligns with the index mark. The |
to identify the hardest damping position no. 4, increased preload. The standard figure is for a standard setting fo r a rider of averagj
then one click back to the standard setting rider of average build (68 kg, 150 lb). build (68 kg, 150 lb) is position no. 1. Positior
(no. 3), and further clicks back to settings no. 6 Tighten the adjuster nut against the spring no. 2 and 3 provide progressively more|
2 and 1. Set both forks to the same damping until the spring length is as calculated damping.
Chapter 7
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive
Contents
Brakecaliper - removal, overhaul and installation ........................ 2 Fluid levels - check................................. See Daily (pre-ride) checks
Brakedisc(s) - inspection, removal and installation ...................... 4 General information..................................................................... 1
Brakehoses and lines - inspection and replacement.................... 7 Master cylinder (front) - removal, overhaul and installation ........... 5
Brakelight switches - check and adjustment ............. See Chapter 9 Master cylinder (rear) - removal, overhaul and installation............. 6
Brakepads - replacement............................................................ 3 Sprockets - check and replacement.............................................16
Brakepad thickness - check ..................................... See Chapter 1 Tires - general information and fittin g ...........................................14
Brakepedal position check and adjustment.................See Chapter 1 Wheel and rear coupling bearings - inspection and
Srakesystem bleeding ............................................................... 8 maintenance .......................................................................... 13
:esystem - general check ................................... See Chapter 1 Wheel (front) - removal and installation.........................................11
ling/rubber damper (rear wheel) - check and replacement . . . 17 Wheel (rear) - removal and installation ......................................... 12
Drivechain and sprockets - check, adjustment and Wheels and tires - general check................................See Chapter 1
1 lubrication............................................................. See Chapter 1 Wheels - alignment check............................................................10
Drivechain - removal, cleaning and installation............................ 15 Wheels - inspection and repair.................................................... 9

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable |k Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult, ^
novicewith little for beginner with ^ suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY ^
experience some experience cS DIY mechanic mechanic ^ or professional ^

Specifications
Brakes
Brake fluid type
Dmodels......................................................................................................... DOT 3
I Emodels......................................................................................................... DOT 4
Brake pad minimum th ic k n e s s ........................................................................ 1 mm (3/64-inch)
Disc thickness
Dmodels
■ Front
f S tandard................................................................................................. 4.3 to 4.6 mm (0.1694 to 0.1812 inch)
Minimum* ............................................................................................... 4.0 mm (0.1576 inch)
I Rear
Standard................................................................................................. 5.8 to 6.1 mm (0.2285 to 0.2403 inch)
Minimum* ............................................................................................... 5.5 mm (0.2167 inch)
I E models
■ Front
\ S tandard................................................................................................. 3.8 to 4.2 mm (0.1497 to 0.1655 inch)
Minimum* .............................................................................................. 3.5 mm (0.1379 inch)
I Rear
i S tandard................................................................................................. 5.8 to 6.1 mm (0.2285 to 0.2403 inch)
I Minimum* .............................................................................................. 5.0 mm (0.197 inch)
Disc runout (front and rear, all models)
■^Standard......................................................................................................... 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch) or less
■Minimum......................................................................................................... 0.3 mm (0.0118 inch)
'Refer to marks stamped into the disc (they supersede information printed here)
7*2 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive

Final drive
Rear sprocket runout
S ta n d a rd ...................................................................................................... 0.4 mm (0.0158 inch) or less
Maximum .................................................................................................... 0.5 mm (0.020 inch)

W heels and tires


Wheel runout
Axial (side-to-side) ..................................................................................... 0.5 mm (0.020 inch)
Radial (out-of-round).............................................................................. .... 0.8 mm (0.031 inch)
Rear axle runout
S ta n d a rd ...................................................................................................... 0.05 mm (0.0020 inch)
Service lim it............................................................................................. .... 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch)
Tire pressures............................................................................................. .... See Chapter 1
Tire sizes
D models
F r o n t........................................................................................................ 120/60 VR17, 120/60 ZR17, 110/70 V17
R ea r.......................................................................................................... 160/60 VR17, 160/60 ZR17, 160/60 VB17
E models
Front ........................................................................................................ 120/60 ZR17
R ea r.......................................................................................................... 160/60 ZR 17

Torque specifications
Axle nut (front and rear)
D m od els...................................................................................................... 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs)
E m o d e ls .................................................................................................. 110 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Brake caliper bleeder s c re w ...................................................................... 7.8 Nm (69 in-lbs)
Brake hose banjo b o lts ............................................................................... 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
Brake disc-to-wheel bolts ........................................................................ .... 23 Nm (16.5 ft-lbs)
Front sprocket nut
D m o d e ls...................................................................................................... 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)
E m o d e ls...................................................................................................... 125 Nm (94 ft-lbs)
Front axle clamp bolts ............................................................................... 20 Nm (14.5 ft-lbs)
Front and rear caliper mounting bolts ..................................................... 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Front caliper assembly bolts .................................................................... 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
Master cylinder mounting bolts
F ro n t........................................................................................................ 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs)
R ear.......................................................................................................... 23 Nm (16.5 ft-lbs)
Rear sprocket n u ts ..................................................................................... 74 Nm (54 ft-lbs)
Torque arm bolt nut ................................................................................... 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

clean brake fluid or alcohol for cleaning. Note: If you are removing the caliper onlyto
1 General information Use care when working with brake fluid as remove the front or rear wheel or to replaceo|
it can injure your eyes and it will damage inspect the rear brake pads, don’t discon
painted surfaces and plastic parts. the hose from the caliper.

R em oval
The models covered by this manual are
equipped with hydraulic disc brakes on the 2 Brake caliper - removal, % Front caliper
front and rear. All models employ dual-piston overhaul and installation 1 Support the bike securely upright. Note:#
front calipers. D models employ dual-piston yo u ’re planning to disassemble the caliper,
rear calipers as well; E models use single­ read through the overhaul procedure, payt
piston rear calipers. particular attention to the steps involved lt\\
Warning: If a front caliper

A
All models are equipped with cast removing the pistons with compressed air.
aluminum wheels, which require very little indicates the need for an
overhaul (usually due to leaking you don’t have access to an air compressor,
maintenance and allow tubeless tires to be you can use the b ike ’s hydraulic system!oj
used. fluid or sticky operation), BOTH
front calipers should be overhauled and all loosen the pistons instead. To do this, rem
Caution: Disc brake components rarely old brake fluid flushed from the system. the pads and pum p the brake lever. Ifo
require disassembly. Do not disassemble Also, the dust created by the brake system piston comes out before the others, push it;
components unless absolutely necessary. may contain asbestos, which is harmful to back into its bore and hold it in with a C-clarm
If any hydraulic brake line connection in your health. Never blow it out with while pum ping the brake lever to free the'
the system is loosened, the entire system compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. remaining pistons.
should be disassembled, drained, cleaned An approved filtering mask should be 2 Note: Remember, if yo u ’re just removi
and then properly filled and bled upon worn when working on the brakes. Do not, the caliper to remove the front wheel, ign
reassembly. Do not use solvents on under any circumstances, use petroleum- this step. Disconnect the brake hose from t
internal brake components. Solvents will based solvents to clean brake parts. Use caliper. Remove the brake hose banjo fitti
cause seals to swell and distort. Use only brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only! bolt and separate the hose from the cali
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*3

2.2a Disconnect the end of the speedometer cable (A) then


remove the mounting bolts (B)
Don't unscrew the banjo bolt (C) if you’re only replacing the 2.2b Remove and discard the copper sealing washers on each
brake pads side of the banjo fitting

2.4a Remove the caliper-to-hanger Allen bolts (A)


Don’t unscrew the banjo bolt (B) if you’re only replacing the 2.4b Separate the brake hose from its clip on the torque arm
brake pads

(see illustrations). Discard the sealing overhaul the caliper, remove the caliper from pivot the caliper back and up slightly (to allow
washers. Plug the fitting or wrap a plastic bag the hanger. If you’re removing the caliper to the clamp to clear the sprocket) and place a
tightlyaround it to prevent excessive fluid loss replace the brake pads rather than overhaul C-clamp on the caliper as shown (see
andcontamination. the caliper, read the next Step before illustration). Position the clamp so that the
3 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts (see removing the caliper from the disc. pad on the end of the screw is seated directly
Illustration 2.2a). Lift off the caliper, being 7 If you’re planning to simply replace the against the back of the inner brake pad. When
careful not to strain or twist the brake hose if brake pads (rather than overhaul the caliper), you tighten the clamp, it pushes the piston
iPsstill connected. back into its bore so that the caliper can be
Rear caliper installed back over the disc with the new
(thicker) brake pads. Keep tightening the
4 If you’re removing the rear caliper but
clamp until the piston bottoms out. Note: This
leaving the brake hose connected, detach the
trick only works on E models with a single­
brake hose from the clip on the torque arm
piston rear caliper. On D models with dual­
(seeIllustrations).
piston rear calipers, yo u ’ll have to manually
5 Note: If you’re only removing the caliper to
depress the pistons after removing the caliper
replace brake pads or remove the wheel,
from the bike. Once the piston is depressed,
ignore this step. Disconnect the brake hose
remove the caliper. Be careful not to strain or
from the caliper. Remove the brake hose
twist the brake hose if it’s still connected.
banjo fitting bolt and separate the hose from
thecaliper (see illustration 2.2b). Discard the Overhaul
sealing washers. Plug the fitting or wrap a
plastic bag tightly around it to prevent Front caliper
excessive fluid loss and contamination. 2.7 Tighten the clamp to push the piston 8 Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle
6 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts (see into its bore so the caliper fits over the spring from the caliper (see Section 3). Clean
illustration 2.4a) and, if you’re planning to disc with the new pads the exterior of the caliper with rubbing alcohol
7*4 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive

2.8 Place rags in the brake pad cavity and apply a blast of 2.9 To separate the caliper halves, remove these four Allen bo
compressed air to break the pistons loose (arrows)

or brake system cleaner. Shove a couple of 9 Remove the four Allen bolts that hold the the upper seal is the dust seal and the Iowa
shop rags through the caliper and pop the caliper halves together and separate the seal is the piston seal. Also, be sure to ren
four pistons loose with a small burst of caliper (see illustration). the two small O-rings from the caliper ha
compressed air (see illustration). 10 If you were unsuccessful in loosening any They must be discarded and new ones us
Warning: Do NOT stick your of the pistons in Step 8, bolt a piece of wood during reassembly.
fingers in between the at least 10 mm thick to the mating surface of

A
12 Clean the pistons and the bores wit!
pistons when applying each caliper half to prevent the piston(s) from rubbing alcohol, clean brake fluid or braki
compressed air! flying out. The wood must block one of the system cleaner and blow dry them will
fluid inlets. Use compressed air, directed into filtered, unlubricated compressed air. Ins
the other fluid inlet, to remove the piston(s). the surfaces of the pistons for nicks and bui
Use only enough air pressure to ease the and loss of plating. Check the caliper bore
piston(s) out of the bore. If a piston is blown too. If surface defects are present, the calipei |
out forcefully, even with the wood in place, it must be replaced. If the caliper is in
may be damaged. Carefully remove each shape, the master cylinder should also I
piston from its bore (see illustration). checked.
Warning: Never place your

A
13 Lubricate the piston (lower) seals with
fingers in front of the piston in clean brake fluid and install them in thei
an attempt to catch or protect it grooves in the caliper bore. Make sure the]
when applying compressed air, seat completely and aren't twisted.
as serious injury could occur. 14 Lubricate the dust (upper) seals with del
11 Remove the piston seals (see brake fluid and install them in their groove
illustration), preferably with a wood or plastic making sure they seat correctly.
tool. If you do use a metal tool - and use it 15 Lubricate the pistons with clean brake flu!
2.10 Remove the pistons from their bores carelessly - you may cause bore damage. and install them into the caliper bores |
Note that there are two seals per piston bore: illustration). Carefully position each pistol

2.11 To avoid damage, use a pencil - or some other plastic or 2.15 Dip the piston in fresh brake fluid, then push it straight into
wooden tool - to remove the seals the bore with your thumbs
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*5

2.17a An exploded view of the rear brake caliper assembly 2.17b An exploded view of the rear brake caliper assembly
(D models) (E models)
1 Anti-rattle spring 8 Caliper 1 Retaining pin clip 8 Caliper
2 Inner brake pad 9 Caliper bleeder screw 2 Pad retaining pin 9 Bleeder screw
3 Outer brake pad 10 Bleeder screw caps 3 Inner brake pad 10 Bleeder screw cap
4 Caliper bracket 11 Dust seals 4 Outer brake pad 11 Anti-rattle spring
5 Pad support clips 12 Piston inserts 5 Caliper bracket 12 Piston
6 Slider pin boot 13 Pistons 6 Slider pin boot 13 Dust seal
7 Slider pin boot 14 Piston seals 7 Slider pin boot 14 Piston seal

squarewith the bore, then use your thumb to exterior of the caliper with rubbing alcohol or 19 If compressed air isn’t available,
push the piston all the way in until it’s brake system cleaner. Remove the caliper reconnect the caliper to the brake hose and
bottomed out. Don’t allow a piston to become bracket and the slider pin boots from the pump the brake lever or pedal until the
cockedin the bore. If it does, don’t try to force caliper (see illustrations). Remove the anti­ piston(s) are free.
H- gently work it back out, square it with the rattle spring (see illustration). 20 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the
tore, then push again with your thumb. 18 Place a few rags between the piston(s) dust seal(s) (see illustration 2.11). Metal tools
U Reassemble the caliper halves, using new and the caliper frame to act as a cushion, then may cause bore damage.
O-rings. use compressed air, directed into the fluid 21 Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the
Rear caliper inlet, to remove the piston(s) (see illustration piston seal(s) from the groove in the caliper
Note: The following overhaul procedure 2.8). Use only enough air pressure to ease the bore.
depicts an E model single-piston rear caliper, piston(s) out of the bore. If a piston is blown 22 Clean the piston(s) and the bore(s) with
tut theprocedure for overhauling a D model out, even with the cushion in place, it may be denatured alcohol, clean brake fluid or brake
ml-piston caliper is essentially the same. If damaged. system cleaner and blow dry them with
m have trouble with a two-piston caliper Warning: Never place your filtered, unlubricated compressed air. Inspect
mhaul, refer to the accompanying exploded
m of the D model rear caliper.
17 Remove the brake pads from the caliper
|see Section 3, if necessary). Clean the
A fingers in front of the piston in
an attempt to catch or protect it
when applying compressed air,
as serious injury could occur.
the surfaces of the piston(s) for nicks and
burrs and loss of plating. Check the caliper
bore(s), too. If surface defects are present, the
caliper must be replaced. If the caliper is in

2.17c Pull the bracket out of the 2.17d . . . and remove the slider pin 2.17e Remove the anti-rattle spring
caliper. . . boots
7*6 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive

2.26 Bottom the piston in the caliper bore 2.27 Install the slider pin boots 2.28 Apply a thin coat of the specifie
- make sure it goes in straight grease to the slider pins on the calip
bracket

bad shape, the master cylinder should also be 26 Lubricate the piston(s) with clean brake bleed the system (see Section 8). Gheck
checked. fluid and install it into the caliper bore. Using leaks.
23 Temporarily reinstall the caliper bracket. your thumbs, push the piston all the way in 31 Check the operation of the
Make sure it slides smoothly in-and-out of the (see illustration), making sure it doesn’t get carefully before riding the motorcycle.
caliper. If it doesn’t, check the slider pins for cocked in the bore.
burrs or excessive wear, also check the slider 27 Install the slider pin boots (see
pin bores in the caliper for wear and scoring. illustration). 3 Brake pads - replacement
Replace the caliper bracket, the caliper, or 28 Apply a thin coat of silicone grease
both if necessary. designed for high-tem perature brake
24 Lubricate the piston seal(s) with clean applications to the slider pins on the caliper
brake fluid and install it in its groove in the bracket (see illustration). Install the caliper Warning: When replacing the
caliper bore. Make sure it isn’t twisted and
seats completely.
25 Lubricate the dust seal(s) with clean brake
fluid and install it in its groove, making sure it
bracket to the caliper and seat the boots over
the lips on the bracket.
Installation
A front brake pads always rep/a
the pads in BOTH calipers ■
never just on one side. Also, I
dust created by the brake system may
seats correctly. 29 Installation is the reverse of the removal contain asbestos, which is harmful toyow
steps, with the following additions: health. Never blow it out with compr
a) If you're installing a rear caliper, space the air and don’t inhale any of it. An appm
pads apart so the disc will fit between filtering mask should be worn when
them. working on the brakes.
b) Use new sealing washers on the brake 1 Unbolt the caliper (see Section 2)
hose fitting and position the protrusion on support it so that it’s not hanging by the bre
the fitting against the locating tab on the hose.
caliper (see illustration 2.2b).
c) Tighten the caliper mounting bolts and Front caliper
banjo fitting bolt to the torque listed in 2 Remove the pad cover (see illustration).
this Chapter’s Specifications. 3 Remove the clip from the pad pin, dep
d) On rear calipers, tighten the torque arm the pistons by wedging a pair of needle-i
bolt and nut to the torque listed in this pliers or some other suitable small hand I
Chapter’s Specifications and install a new between the old pads, and withdraw thepit
3.2 To get at the pads on either front cotter pin. (see illustrations). Pull the pads out of tl
caliper, remove the pad cover screws 30 Fill the master cylinder with the caliper opening (see illustrations).
(arrows) and the cover recommended brake fluid (see Chapter 1) and 4 Refer to Chapter 1 and inspect the pads.

3.3a To remove the brake pads, pull out 3.3b . . . insert pliers between the pads 3.3c . . . remove the retaining pin..
the retaining pin clip . . . and twist the pliers to depress the pistons
into their bores . . .
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*7

.. and remove the brake pads 3.10a Before removing the pads from the 3.10b . . . then pull out this pin
rear caliper, remove this retaining
pin clip . . .

1.11a To remove the inner pad from the rear caliper, pivot the 3.11b To remove the outer pad, push down (arrow) and pull the
free end up, then slide the pad off the pin pad edge out from under the bracket

5Check the condition of the brake discs (see essentially the same. If you have trouble with
Section 4). If they’re in need of machining or pad replacement on a two-piston caliper, refer 4 Brake disc(s) - inspection,
replacement, follow the procedure in that to the exploded view o f the D model rear rem oval and installation ^
Section to remove them. If they are okay, caliper in Section 2.
deglaze them with sandpaper or emery cloth, 9 Remove the caliper (see Section 2).
usinga swirling motion. 10 Remove the clip from the pad retaining
6 Remove the cap from the master cylinder pin and pull out the pin (see illustrations). Inspection
reservoir and siphon out some fluid. Push the 11 Pull the pads out of the caliper (see 1 Set the bike on its centerstand.
pistons into the caliper again, this time as far as illustrations). 2 Visually inspect the surface of the disc(s) for
possible, while keeping an eye on the master 12 Refer to Chapter 1 and inspect the pads. score marks and other damage. Light
cylinder reservoir fluid level to make sure it 13 Check the condition of the brake discs scratches are normal after use and won’t
doesn’t overflow. If you can’t depress the (see Section 4). If they’re in need of machining
pistons with thumb pressure, try pushing them or replacement, follow the procedure in that
down with a pair of pliers or some other small Section to remove them. If they are okay,
.tool. If the pistons stick, remove the caliper and deglaze them with sandpaper or emery cloth,
overhaul it as described in Section 2. using a swirling motion.
7Install the new pads, the retaining pin and 14 Remove the cap from the master cylinder
theclip. Install the pad cover. reservoir and siphon out some fluid. Push the
8 Operate the brake lever or pedal several pistons into the caliper as far as possible,
limes to bring the pads into contact with the while checking the master cylinder reservoir
disc. Check the operation of the brakes to make sure it doesn’t overflow. If you can’t
carefully before riding the motorcycle. depress the pistons with thumb pressure, try
using a C-clamp. If the pistons stick, remove
Rear caliper the caliper and overhaul it as described in
Note: The following pad replacement Section 2.
procedure depicts an E model single-piston 15 Install the new pads (see illustration), 3.15 When installing the pad that fits
rear caliper, but the procedure for changing retaining pin and clip. against the piston, be sure it’s properly
pads on a D model dual-piston caliper is 16 Install the caliper (see Section 2). engaged with the bracket
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*9

5,4 Loosen the banjo bolt at the master 5.5 Remove the pivot nut (1) and pull out 5.6 To detach the master cylinder from the
cylinder and disconnect the brake hose the bolt handlebar, remove these two Allen bolts
To remove the lever and adjuster as an (arrows)
assembly, remove nut (2), pull out the adjuster
5 Master cylinder (front) - |^> bolt and unplug the electrical connectors (3)
p removal, overhaul and Sifc Removal
1 installation fluid of the recommended type, some clean 3 Loosen, but do not remove, the screws
rags and internal snap-ring pliers. Note: To holding the reservoir cover in place.
11fthe master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if prevent damage to the paint from spilled 4 Pull back the rubber boot, loosen the banjo
Ihelever does not produce a firm feel when brake fluid, always cover the fuel tank when fitting bolt (see illustration) and separate the
thebrake is applied, and bleeding the brakes working on the master cylinder. brake hose from the master cylinder; discard
does not help, master cylinder overhaul is Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and both sealing washers - always use new
recommended. reassembly of the brake master cylinder washers when reattaching the banjo fitting.
2Before disassembling the master cylinder, must be done in a spotlessly clean work Wrap the end of the hose in a clean rag and
readthrough the entire procedure and make area to avoid contamination and possible suspend the hose in an upright position or
sure that you have the correct rebuild kit. failure of the brake hydraulic system bend it down carefully and place the open end
Also, you will need some new, clean brake in a clean container. The objective is to

r
components.
prevent excess loss of brake fluid, fluid spills
and system contamination.
5 Remove the locknut from the underside of
the lever pivot bolt, then unscrew the bolt
(see illustration).
6 Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts
(see illustration) and separate the master
cylinder from the handlebar.
Caution: Do not tip the master cylinder
upside down or brake fluid will run out.
7 Disconnect the electrical connectors from
the brake light switch (see illustration 5.5).

Overhaul
8 Detach the top cover and the rubber
Rubber boot diaphragm, then drain the brake fluid into a
Banjo bolt _ n suitable container. Wipe any remaining fluid
Sealing washers out of the reservoir with a clean rag.
Brake hose 9 Carefully remove the rubber dust boot from
Nut the end of the piston (see illustrations).
Brake lever pivot bolt
Brake lever
Clamp bolt
Clamp shell
Brake light switch
Reservoir cap
Diaphragm
Master cylinder body
Dust boot
Snap-ring
Piston assembly
Junction bolt
Junction
Brake hose retainer

5.9b Remove the rubber boot from the end


5.9a An exploded view of the front master cylinder and brake hose assembly of the master cylinder piston . . .
7*10 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive

5.10a . . . then depress the piston and 5.10b Lay out the old parts from the 5.12 Make sure the lips of the cupsfaceii
remove the snap-ring with a pair of master cylinder to help install the new the proper direction
snap-ring pliers parts correctly

10 Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap- seals do not turn inside out when they are the brake is applied, and bleeding the bral
ring (see illustrations) and slide out the slipped into the bore. does not help, master cylinder overhauls
piston, the cup seals and the spring. Lay the 14 Depress the piston, then install the snap- recommended.
parts out in the proper order to prevent ring (make sure the snap-ring is properly 2 Before disassembling the master cylind
confusion during reassembly. seated in the groove with the sharp edge read through the entire procedure and mi
11 Clean all of the parts with brake system facing out). Install the rubber dust boot (make sure that you have the correct rebuild I
cleaner (available at auto parts stores), sure the lip is seated properly in the piston Also, you will need some new, clean brate
rubbing alcohol or clean brake fluid. If groove). fluid of the recommended type, someclei
compressed air is available, use it to dry the rags and internal snap-ring pliers.
parts thoroughly (make sure it’s filtered and Installation Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and
unlubricated). Check the master cylinder bore 15 Attach the master cylinder to the reassembly of the brake master cylinder
for corrosion, scratches, nicks and score handlebar and tighten the bolts to the torque must be done in a spotlessly clean worit
marks. If damage is evident, the master listed in this C hapter’s Specifications. The area to avoid contamination and possible |
cylinder must be replaced with a new one. If arrow and the word “ UP” on the master failure of the brake hydraulic system
the master cylinder is in poor condition, then cylinder clamp should be pointing up and components.
the calipers should be checked as well. readable. Install the brake lever and tighten Removal
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, the pivot bolt locknut. 3 Set the bike on its centerstand. RemovetiK
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean 16 Connect the brake hose to the master right side cover (see Chapter 8).
brake parts. cylinder, using new sealing washers. Tighten 4 Remove the cotter pin from the clevis f
12 Remove the old cup seals from the piston the banjo fitting bolt to the torque listed in this on the master cylinder pushrod (s«
and spring and install the new ones. Make Chapter’s Specifications. illustration). Remove the clevis pin.
sure the lips face away from the lever end of 17 Reattach the brake light switch leads. 5 Remove the two master cylinder moun
the piston (see illustration). If a new piston is 18 Bleed the air from the system (see bolts (see illustration) and detach
included in the rebuild kit, use it regardless of Section 8). cylinder from the bracket.
the condition of the old one. 6 Have a container and some rags ready6
13 Before reassembling the master cylinder, catch spilling brake fluid. Using a pair (
soak the piston and the rubber cup seals in 6 Master cylinder (rear) - ^ pliers, slide the clamp up the fluid feed hoi
clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes. removal, overhaul and Sv and detach the hose from the master cylii*
Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean installation ^ (see illustration). Direct the end of the ho:
brake fluid, then carefully insert the piston and into the container, unscrew the cap on I
related parts in the reverse order of 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if master cylinder reservoir and allow the fluidtc
disassembly. Make sure the lips on the cup the pedal does not produce a firm feel when drain.

6.4 Remove the cotter pin (arrow) and 6.5 To detach the rear master cylinder 6.6 Loosen the hose clamp (A) and deta
remove the clevis pin that attaches the from its mounting bracket, remove these the hose, then unscrew the banjo bolt)
pushrod two Allen bolts (arrows)
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*11

6.8a Remove the snap-ring that secures 6.8b Remove the O-ring from the bore and 6.9a Hold the clevis with a pair of pliers
the fluid inlet fitting discard it and loosen the locknut

6.9b Remove the dust boot from the


pushrod

6.10a Depress the pushrod and remove


the snap-ring from the cylinder bore

7Using a six-point box-end wrench, unscrew


the banjo fitting bolt from the top of the 6.10b An exploded view of the rear brake reservoir and master cylinder assembly
ister cylinder (see illustration 6.6). Discard (D model shown)
the sealing washers on either side of the 1 Cotter pin 8 Clevis/pushrod assembly 16 Diaphragm retainer
[fitting. 2 Clevis pin 9 Dust boot 17 Diaphragm
3 Master cylinder mounting 10 Snap-ring 18 Reservoir
Overhaul
bolt (2) 11 Piston/cup assembly 19 Reservoir mounting bolt
8 Using a pair of snap-ring pliers, remove the 4 Rear master cylinder 12 Spring 20 Banjo bolt
ip-ring from the fluid inlet fitting (see 5 Snap-ring 13 Hose clamp 21 Sealing washers
illustration) and detach the fitting from the 6 Elbow fitting 14 Brake hose 22 Brake hose
master cylinder. Remove the O-ring from the 7 O-ring 15 Reservoir cap
bore(see illustration).
9 Hold the clevis with a pair of pliers and illustrations). Slide out the piston, the cup compressed air is available, use it to dry the
loosenthe locknut (see illustration). Carefully seal and spring. Lay the parts out in the proper parts thoroughly (make sure it’s filtered and
move the rubber dust boot from the order to prevent confusion during reassembly. unlubricated). Check the master cylinder bore
pushrod (see illustration). 11 Clean all of the parts with brake system for corrosion, scratches, nicks and score
10 Depress the pushrod and, using snap-ring cleaner (available at auto parts stores), marks. If damage is evident, the master
oliers, remove the snap-ring (see isopropyl alcohol or clean brake fluid. If cylinder must be replaced with a new one. If
7*12 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive

6.12 Make sure the lips of the cups (arrow) face away from the 7.2 Flex the brake hoses and check for cracks, bulges and
pushrod end of the piston leaking fluid

the master cylinder is in poor condition, then 20 Connect the clevis to the brake pedal and the casting protrusions on the component it
the caliper should be checked as well. secure the clevis pin with a new cotter pin. connected to, if equipped. Install the ban|
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, 21 Fill the fluid reservoir with the specified bolts, using new sealing washers on
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean fluid (see Chapter 1) and bleed the system sides of the fittings, and tighten them tot
brake parts. following the procedure in Section 8. Install torque listed in this Chapter’s Specific
12 Remove the old cup seals from the piston the side cover. If a threaded fitting is used instead of a bai
and spring and install the new ones. Make 22 Check the position of the brake pedal (see bolt, tighten it securely, again using a flaren
sure the lips face away from the pushrod end Chapter 1) and adjust it if necessary. Check wrench.
of the piston (see illustration). If a new piston the operation of the brakes carefully before 6 Flush the old brake fluid from the systei
is included in the rebuild kit, use it regardless riding the motorcycle. refill the system with the recommended flui
of the condition of the old one. (see Chapter 1) and bleed the air from I
13 Before reassembling the master cylinder, system (see Section 8). Check the operate
soak the piston and the rubber cup seals in
clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes.
7 Brake hoses and lines -
inspection and replacement i of the brakes carefully before riding
motorcycle.
Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean
brake fluid, then carefully insert the parts in
I
the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure
8 Brake system bleeding
the lips on the cup seals do not turn inside out Inspection
when they are slipped into the bore. 1 Periodically check the condition of the
14 Lubricate the end of the pushrod with brake hoses and fittings.
silicone grease designed for brake 2 Twist and flex the rubber hoses (see 1 Bleeding the brake is simply the proce
applications, and install the pushrod and stop illustration) while looking for cracks, bulges removing all the air bubbles from the braKt
washer into the cylinder bore. Depress the and seeping fluid. Check extra carefully fluid reservoir, the lines and the brake calip
pushrod, then install the snap-ring (make sure around the areas where the hoses connect Bleeding is necessary whenever a braia
the snap-ring is properly seated in the groove with the banjo fittings, as these are common system hydraulic connection is loosen
with the sharp edge facing out). Install the areas for hose failure. when a com ponent or hose is replaced,«
rubber dust boot (make sure the lip is seated 3 Inspect the metal lines connected to the when the master cylinder or caliper
properly in the groove in the piston stop nut). banjo fittings. If the plating on the lines is overhauled. Leaks in the system may;
15 Install the clevis on the end of the chipped or scratched, the lines may rust. If the allow air to enter, but leaking brake fluid \
pushrod, adjust the brake pedal height (see lines are rusted, scratched or cracked, reveal their presence and warn you of I
Chapter 1), then tighten the locknut. replace them. need for repair.
16 Install the feed hose fitting, using a new 2 To bleed the brake, you will need som
O-ring. Install the snap-ring, making sure it
Replacement new, clean brake fluid of the recommend
seats properly in its groove. 4 Most brake hoses have banjo fittings on type (see Specifications), a length of cl«
each end of the hose (front brakes, see vinyl or plastic tubing, a small contaim
Installation illustration 5.9a; rear brake hoses, see partially filled with clean brake fluid, sorr
17 Position the master cylinder on the frame illustration 6.10b). Cover the surrounding rags and a wrench to fit the brake calip
bracket, install the bolts and tighten them to area with plenty of rags and unscrew the bleeder valve.
the torque listed in this C hapter’s banjo bolts on either end of the hose. If a Warning: If you use a beverage
container, throw it away

A
Specifications. threaded fitting is used instead of a banjo bolt,
18 Connect the banjo fitting to the top of the use a flare nut wrench to loosen it. Detach the immediately after the bleeding
master cylinder, using new sealing washers hose from any clips that may be present and procedure so nobody
on each side of the fitting. Tighten the banjo remove the hose. accidentally drinks from it.
fitting bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s 5 Position the new hose, making sure it isn’t 3 Cover the fuel tank and other paint®
Specifications. tw isted or otherwise strained, between the components to prevent damage in the eve
19 Connect the fluid feed hose to the inlet two components. Make sure the metal tube that brake fluid is spilled.
fitting and install the hose clamp. portion of the banjo fitting is located between 4 Remove the reservoir cap or cover am
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*13

slowly pump the brake lever or pedal a few


times, until no air bubbles can be seen
floating up from the holes at the bottom of the
reservoir. Doing this bleeds the air from the
“aster cylinder end of the line. Reinstall the
ervoir cap or cover.
5 Attach one end of the clear vinyl or plastic
lubing to the brake caliper bleeder valve and
submerge the other end in the brake fluid in
thecontainer.
6 Remove the reservoir cap or cover and
check the fluid level. Do not allow the fluid
I to drop below the lower mark during the
eeding process.
?Slowly pump the brake lever or pedal three 8.7 To bleed the brakes you need a box
or four times and hold it while opening the wrench, clear tubing and a container
caliper bleeder valve (see illustration). When half-filled with brake fluid.
thevalve is opened, brake fluid will flow out of
the caliper into the clear tubing and the lever compare your readings with the value listed in
will move toward the handlebar or the pedal this Chapter’s Specifications. In order to
9.2 Measure wheel runout with a dial
will move down. accurately check radial runout with the dial
indicator
8 Retighten the bleeder valve, then release indicator, the wheel would have to be
the brake lever or pedal gradually. Repeat the removed from the machine and the tire 7 Radial runout 2 Axial runout
process until no air bubbles are visible in the removed from the wheel. With the axle
brake fluid leaving the caliper and the lever or clamped in a vise, the wheel can be rotated to
then measure the width of both tires at their
pedal is firm when applied. Note: The rear check the runout.
widest points. Subtract the smaller
5lipers on D models have two bleeder valves 3 An easier, though slightly less accurate,
measurement from the larger measurement,
air must be bled from both, one after the method is to attach a stiff wire pointer to the
then divide the difference by two. The result is
other. Remember to add fluid to the reservoir fork slider or the swingarm and position the
the amount of offset that should exist
asthe level drops. Use only new, clean brake end a fraction of an inch from the wheel
between the front and rear tires on both sides.
fluid of the recommended type. Never reuse (where the wheel and tire join). If the wheel is
4 If a string is used, have your assistant hold
thefluid lost during bleeding. true, the distance from the pointer to the rim
one end of it about half way between the floor
9 If you’re bleeding the front brakes, repeat will be constant as the wheel is rotated.
and the rear axle, touching the rear sidewall of
this procedure to the other caliper. Be sure to Repeat the procedure to check the runout of
the tire.
check the fluid level in the master cylinder the rear wheel. Note: If wheel runout is
5 Run the other end of the string forward and
reservoir frequently. excessive, refer to the appropriate Section in
pull it tight so that it is roughly parallel to the
10 Replace the reservoir cover, wipe up any this Chapter and check the wheel bearings
floor. Slowly bring the string into contact with
spilled brake fluid and check the entire system very carefully before replacing the wheel.
the front sidewall of the rear tire, then turn the
for leaks. 4 The wheels should also be visually
front wheel until it is parallel with the string.
inspected for cracks, flat spots on the rim and
Measure the distance from the front tire
other damage. Since tubeless tires are
sidewall to the string.
If bleeding is difficult, it may involved, look very closely for dents in the
6 Repeat the procedure on the other side of
be necessary to let the area where the tire bead contacts the rim.
the m otorcycle. The distance from the front
brake fluid in the system Dents in this area may prevent com plete
tire sidewall to the string should be equal on
stabilize for a few hours (it sealing of the tire against the rim, which leads
both sides.
may be aerated). Repeat the bleeding to deflation of the tire over a period of time.
7 As was previously pointed out, a perfectly
procedure when the tiny bubbles in the 5 If damage is evident, or if runout in either
straight length of wood may be substituted for
system have settled o ut direction is excessive, the wheel will have to
the string. The procedure is the same.
be replaced with a new one. Never attempt to
8 If the distance between the string and tire is
repair a damaged cast aluminum wheel.
greater on one side, or if the rear wheel
appears to be cocked, refer to Chapter 6,
9 W h eels-
inspection and repair
10 Wheels - alignment check
% Swingarm bearings - check, and make sure
the swingarm is tight.
I 9 If the front-to-back alignment is correct, the
wheels still may be out of alignment vertically.
1 Place the motorcycle on the centerstand, 1 Misalignment of the wheels, which may be 10 Using the plumb bob, or other suitable
then clean the wheels thoroughly to remove due to a cocked rear wheel or a bent frame or weight, and a length of string, check the rear
mud and dirt that may interfere with the triple clamps, can cause strange and possibly wheel to make sure it is vertical. To do this,
inspection procedure or mask defects. Make serious handling problems. If the frame or hold the string against the tire upper sidewall
ageneral check of the wheels and tires as triple clamps are at fault, repair by a frame and allow the weight to settle just off the floor.
described in ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the specialist or replacement with new parts are When the string touches both the upper and
beginning of this Manual and Chapter 1. the only alternatives. lower tire sidewalls and is perfectly straight,
2 With the motorcycle on the centerstand and 2 To check the alignment you will need an the wheel is vertical. If it is not, place thin
.thewheel in the air, attach a dial indicator to assistant, a length of string or a perfectly spacers under one leg of the centerstand.
Ihefork slider or the swingarm and position straight piece of wood and a ruler graduated 11 Once the rear wheel is vertical, check the
the stem against the side of the rim (see in 1/64 inch increments. A plumb bob or other front wheel in the same manner. If both wheels
illustration). Spin the wheel slowly and check suitable weight will also be required. are not perfectly vertical, the frame and/or
theside-to-side (axial) runout of the rim, then 3 Place the motorcycle on the centerstand, major suspension components are bent.
7*14 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive

11.1 If the exhaust system has been removed, prop up the front 11.4a Loosen the axle clamp bolts (arrows) on both sliders (o
of the bike with a jack; use a block of wood to protect the oil pan fork tubes)

lower the wheel. If the axle is stuck, drive it


11 Wheel (front) - out from the left side with a hammer and
removal and installation punch (see illustration). Don’t lose the
spacer that fits into the right side of the hub.
Note: Do not operate the front brake lever
with the wheel removed.
Removal Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and
1 Remove the lower portion of the fairing (see allow it to rest on one of the discs - the
Chapter 8). Place the m otorcycle on the disc could become warped. Set the wheel
centerstand, then tip it rearwards so that its on wood blocks so the disc doesn’t
weight is resting on the rear wheel. Prop the support the weight of the wheel. If the axle
m otorcycle up under the crankcase (see is corroded, remove the corrosion with fine
illustration), or tie it down at the rear (see emery cloth.
Tools and Workshop Tips in the Reference 6 Check the condition of the wheel bearings 11.4b Remove the axle nut from the left
section). (see Section 13). slider
2 Disconnect the speedometer cable (see
illustration 2.2a) from the drive unit. Installation 8 Slip the axle into place, then tighten
3 Remove the brake calipers (see Section 2) 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply axle nut to the torque listed in this Chapti
and support them with a piece of wire. Don’t a thin coat of grease to the seal lip, then slide Specifications. Tighten the axle clamp bolt!
disconnect the brake hoses from the calipers. the collar into the right side of the hub. the torque listed in this Chaptf
4 Loosen the axle clamp bolts on both sliders Position the speedometer drive unit in place in Specifications.
(see illustration), then unscrew the axle nut the left side of the hub, then slide the wheel 9 Install the brake calipers (see Section 2).
(see illustration). into place. Make sure the notches in the 10 Apply the front brake, pump the forks
5 Support the wheel, pull out the axle from speedometer drive housing line up with the and down several times and check for bine
the right side (see illustration) and carefully lugs in the wheel. and proper brake operation.

11.5a Pull out the axle from the right side 11.5b If the axle is difficult to remove, drive it out from the left
side with a hammer and punch
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*15

9
c /\
PI

Vu
Z \ "
r .»■

100 mm

12.7 Remove the wheel, allowing the chain 12.8 Check the axle for runout with a dial indicator and a set of V-blocks
to rest on the swingarm

Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and 14 Tighten the axle nut to the torque listed in
12 Wheel (rear) - allow it to rest on the disc or the sprocket - this Chapter’s Specifications. Install a
\ removal and installation Jk they could become warped. Set the wheel new cotter pin, tightening the axle nut an
on wood blocks so the disc or the sprocket additional amount, if necessary, to align the
doesn’t support the weight of the wheel. hole in the axle with the castellations on the
Do not operate the brake pedal with the nut.
Removal wheel removed. 15 Tighten the torque link nut to the torque
1 Set the bike on its c e n te rs ta n d . 8 Before installing the wheel, check the axle listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications.
2 Remove the chain guard (see Section 15). for straightness. If the axle is corroded, first 16 Check the operation of the brakes
3 Loosen the torque link nut (see illustration remove the corrosion with fine emery cloth. carefully before riding the motorcycle.
2.7inChapter 1). Set the axle on V-blocks and check it for
4Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut runout using a dial indicator (see illustration).
(see illustration 2.8 in Chapter 1) and If the axle exceeds the maximum allowable
removethe nut. runout limit listed in this Chapter’s 13 Wheel and rear coupling
5 Loosen the chain adjusting bolt locknuts Specifications, it must be replaced. bearings - inspection and ^
(see illustration 2.9 in Chapter 1) and fully 9 Check the condition of the wheel bearings maintenance ^
loosen both adjusting bolts. (see Section 13).
8Push the rear wheel as far forward as
possible. Lift the top of the chain up off the Installation Front wheel bearings
rear sprocket and pull it to the left while 10 Apply a thin coat of grease to the seal lips, 1 Support the bike securely and remove the
rotating the wheel backwards. This will then slide the spacers into their proper front wheel (see Section 11).
disengage the chain from the sprocket. positions on the sides of the hub. 2 Set the wheel on blocks so as not to allow
Warning: Don’t let your fingers 11 Slide the wheel into place, making sure the weight of the wheel to rest on the brake
slip between the chain and the the brake disc slides between the brake pads. disc.
sprocket If it doesn’t, spread the pads apart with a 3 From the left side of the wheel, remove the
7 Support the wheel and slide out the axle. piece of wood. snap-ring securing the speedometer drive and
Lower the wheel and remove it from the 12 Pull the chain up over the sprocket, raise remove the speedometer drive from the hub
swingarm (see illustration), being careful not the wheel and install the axle and axle nut. (see illustrations).
■tolosethe spacers on either side of the hub. If Don’t tighten the axle nut at this time. 4 Remove the spacer and pry out the grease
theaxle is stuck or difficult to remove, drive it 13 Adjust the chain slack (see Chapter 1) and seal from the right side of the wheel (see
out with a plastic hammer. tighten the adjuster locknuts. illustrations). Remove the bearing snap-ring

13.3a Lift out the speedometer drive unit 13.3b . . . to remove the speedometer 13.4a Lift the spacer out of the wheel
and remove the snap-ring (arrows). . . drive
7*16 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive

13.4b A screwdriver can be used to pry 13.4c Remove the snap-ring from the right 13.5 Once the snap-rings have been
out the seal if you don’t have a removal side of the wheel removed, drive the bearings from the hub
tool like this one with a brass drift

side with high-quality bearing grease


illustration).
9 Thoroughly clean the hub area of the wheel.
Install the right side bearing into its recess inthe
hub, with the marked or shielded side facing
out. Using a bearing driver or a socket large
enough to contact the outer race of the bearing,
drive it in until the snap-ring groove is visible
and install the snap-ring (see illustration).
10 Turn the wheel over and install the bearing
spacer and left side bearing, driving the
bearing into place as described in Step 10,
then install the speedometer drive and the
snap-ring (see illustration).
13.8 Press grease into the open side of 13.9 With the bearing in position, install
11 Coat the lip of a new grease seal
the bearing (A) until it’s full the snap-ring and make sure it’s securely
grease (see illustration).
seated in its groove
12 Install the grease seal on the right side ci
from beneath the grease seal (see sides, clean them with a high flash-point the wheel; it should go in with thumb pressure
illustration). solvent (one which w on’t leave any residue), but if not, use a seal driver, large socket or 3
5 Using a metal rod (preferably a brass drift blow them dry with compressed air (don’t let flat piece of wood to drive it into place.
punch) inserted through the center of the hub the bearings spin as you dry them) and apply 13 Clean off all grease from the brake discs J
bearing, tap evenly around the inner race of a few drops of oil to the bearing. On all using acetone or brake system cleaner. Install
the opposite bearing to drive it from the hub bearings (open or sealed), hold the outer race the wheel (see Section 11).
(see illustration). The bearing spacer will also of the bearing and rotate the inner race - if the
come out. bearing doesn’t turn sm oothly, has rough Rear coupling bearing
6 Lay the wheel on its other side and remove spots or is noisy, replace it with a new one. 14 Refer to Section 12 and remove the rear
the remaining bearing using the same 8 If an open bearing checks out okay and will wheel. Lay the wheel on its brake disc side,
technique. be reused, wash it in solvent once again and supported on blocks so its weight doesn't rest
7 If the bearings are open on one or both dry it, then pack the bearing from the open on the brake disc.

13.10 Install the speedometer drive and secure it with the 13.11 Apply a coat of grease to the lip of the seal
snap-ring
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*17

13.15a Remove the spacer. . . 13.15b . . . and lift the coupling out of the 13.16 Remove the snap-ring after the
wheel grease seal has been removed

15 Lift off the spacer and rear wheel coupling with high-quality bearing grease (see
(see illustrations). illustration 13.8).
16 Pry out the grease seal (s e e illu s t r a t io n 21 Drive the bearing into the coupling with a
13.4b) and remove the snap-ring from the bearing driver or socket that bears against the
sprocket side of the coupling (s e e outer race of the bearing.
illustration). 22 Install the snap-ring to secure the bearing,
17 Turn the wheel over and remove the making sure it fits securely in its groove.
coupling collar from the other side of the hub Install the collar on the other side of the
(see illustration). coupling.
18 Drive the bearing out of the coupling with 23 Coat the lip of a new grease seal with
a bearing driver or drift punch (see grease and install it on top of the snap-ring
illustration). Drive out the coupling bearing (see illustration). It should go in with thumb
only if it will be replaced; removal requires pressure, but if not, tap it in with a hammer
driving against the inner race, which may and socket, bearing driver or flat piece of
13.17 Lift out the coupling collar
damage the bearing wood. Install the coupling and spacer in the
19 If the bearings are open on one or both wheel and install the wheel (see Section 12).
sides, clean the bearing with a high flash­ 27 Lay the wheel on its other side and
point solvent (one which won’t leave any Rear wheel bearings remove the remaining bearing using the same
rasidue), blow it dry with compressed air 24 Pry out the grease seal on the brake disc technique.
(don't let the bearing spin as you dry it) and side of the wheel (see illustration 13.4b). 28 Clean the bearings with a high flash-point
apply a few drops of oil to the bearing. On all 25 Remove the snap-ring from beneath the solvent (one which won’t leave any residue)
bearings (open or sealed), hold the outer race grease seal with snap-ring pliers (see and blow them dry with compressed air (don’t
of the bearing and rotate the inner race - illustration 13.4c). let the bearing spin as you dry them). Apply a
if the bearing doesn’t turn smoothly, has 26 Using a metal rod (preferably a brass drift few drops of oil to the bearing. Hold the outer
rough spots or is noisy, replace it with a new punch) inserted through the center of the hub race of the bearing and rotate the inner race -
one. bearing, tap evenly around the inner race of if the bearing doesn’t turn smoothly, has
20 If the bearing checks out okay and will be the opposite bearing to drive it from the hub rough spots or is noisy, replace it with a new
reused, wash it in solvent once again and dry (see illustration 13.5). The bearing spacer will one.
It, then pack the bearing from the open side also come out. 29 If the bearing checks out okay and will be

13.18 Drive out the coupling bearing 13.23 Press in the new grease seal
7*18 Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive

tires because the force required to break t


seal between the wheel rim and tire bead is
substantial, and is usually beyond the|
capabilities of an individual working
normal tire levers. Additionally, the specialii
will be able to balance the wheels after)
fitting.
5 In the case of tubeless tires, note thal
punctured tires can in some cases be|
repaired. Kawasaki recommend that
repaired tire should not be used at speet
above 60 mph (100 kmh) for the first 24 his |
after the repair, and thereafter not above 110
mph (180 kmh). If a puncture occurs on a|
13.31a Apply a coat of grease to the inside 13.31b . . . and install the spacer in the hub
tubed tire it is advisable to have a new inna
of the spacer . . .
tube fitted.
reused, wash it in solvent once again and dry illustration 13.17).
it, then pack the bearing from the open side 35 Clean off all grease from the brake discs
with high-quality bearing grease (see using acetone or brake system cleaner. Install
illustration 13.8). the wheel. 15 Drive chain - removal,
30 Thoroughly clean the hub area of the cleaning and installation
wheel. Install the bearing into the recess in the
hub, with the marked or shielded side facing 14 Tires - general information
out. Using a bearing driver or a socket large and fitting
enough to contact the outer race of the
Removal
bearing, drive it in until the snap-ring groove is 1 Mark the relationship of the shift lever to the
visible. Install the snap-ring (see illustration shift shaft (see illustration). Remove the shill
General information lever pinch bolt and slide the lever off I
13.9).
31 Turn the wheel over. Apply a coat of multi­ 1 The cast wheels fitted to all ZX600D and E shaft.
purpose grease to the inside of the spacer models are designed to take tubeless tires 2 Remove the bolts securing the engineil
(see illustration) and install it in the hub (see only. sprocket cover to the engine case and removi
illustration). 2 Refer to the Daily (pre-ride) checks at the the sprocket cover. On later UK models the
32 Pack the remaining bearing from the open beginning of this manual for tire maintenance. carburetor warmer hose is clamped to the
side with grease (see illustration 13.8), then sprocket cover by one of its bolts - take i
install it in the hub, driving the bearing in with Fitting new tires not to strain the hose as the cover is remove
a socket or bearing driver large enough to 3 When selecting new tires, refer to the tire 3 Remove the rear wheel (see Section 12).
contact the outer race of the bearing. information label and the tire options listed in 4 Lift the chain off the engine sprocket.
33 Install a new grease seal. It should go in the owners handbook. Ensure that front and 5 Detach the swingarm from the frame (see
with thumb pressure (see illustration), but if rear tire types are compatible, the correct size Chapter 6). Pull the swingarm back far enough
not, use a seal driver, large socket or a flat and correct speed rating; if necessary seek to allow the chain to slip between the frau
piece of wood to drive it into place. advice from a Kawasaki dealer or tire fitting and the front of the swingarm.
34 Press a little grease into the bearing in the specialist (see illustration).
rear wheel coupling. Install the coupling to the 4 It is recommended that tires are fitted by a Cleaning
wheel, making sure the coupling collar is m otorcycle tire specialist rather than 6 Soak the chain in kerosene (paraffin) or
located in the inside of the inner race attem pted in the home workshop. This is diesel fuel for approximately five or six
(between the wheel and the coupling) (see particularly relevant in the case of tubeless minutes.

15.1 Remove shift lever (A) and four bolts (arrows) to release
13.33 Press the seal into the hub with your thumbs sprocket cover - bolt (B) also secures carburetor warmer hose on
later UK models
Brakes, wheels, tires and final drive 7*19

16.4 Measure rear sprocket runout with a 16.6a To remove the countershaft 16.6b . . . and loosen the sprocket nut with
dial indicator sprocket, flatten the folded-up sides of the the transmission in first gear and someone
lockwasher. . . applying firm pressure to the rear brake
pedal

Caution: Don’t use gasoline or other condition, but the sprocket is warped, you 10 When installing the engine sprocket, make
Cleaning fluids. Remove the chain, wipe it may be able to get away with just replacing sure the raised hub faces toward the engine
offthen blow dry it with compressed air the rear sprocket. case. Install a new lockwasher, apply a non­
immediately. The entire process shouldn’t 5 Check the wear pattern on the sprockets hardening thread locking compound to the
takelonger than ten minutes - if it does, (see illustration 2.5 in Chapterl). If the threads on the end of the countershaft, then
theO-rings in the chain rollers could be sprocket teeth are worn excessively, replace tighten the nut to the torque listed in this
damaged. the chain and sprockets. Chapter’s Specifications.
6 If you’re planning to remove the 11 Install the engine sprocket cover and shift
Installation countershaft sprocket, place the transmission lever (see Section 15).
J Installation is the reverse of the removal in first gear, flatten the folded edges of the
procedure. Tighten the suspension fasteners lockwasher (see illustration), then have an
lo the torque listed in the Chapter 6 assistant apply the rear brake while you 17 Coupling/rubber damper |%
Specifications. Tighten the engine sprocket loosen the sprocket nut (see illustration). (rear wheel) - check and
cover bolts and the rear axle nut to the torque 7 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7). replacement gQ
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 8 To replace the rear sprocket, unscrew the
8 Connect the shift lever to the shift shaft, nuts holding it to the wheel coupling and lift 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 7).
lining up the marks. If it’s installed correctly, the sprocket off. When installing the sprocket, 2 Lift the spacer and rear sprocket/rear wheel
the link rod should be parallel to the shift apply a non-hardening thread locking coupling from the wheel (see illustrations
pedal. compound to the threads of the studs. 13.15a and 13.15b).
9 Lubricate the chain (see Chapter 1). Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this 3 Lift the rubber damper (see illustration)
Chapter’s Specifications. Also, check the from the wheel and check it for cracks,
condition of the rubber damper under the rear hardening and general deterioration. Replace
16 Sprockets -
check and replacement n wheel coupling (see Section 17).
9 Remove the sprocket retaining nut and pull
it with a new one if necessary.
4 Checking and replacement procedures for
the countershaft sprocket and chain off the the coupling bearing are in Section 13.
shaft (see illustration), then separate the 5 Installation is the reverse of the removal
1Set the bike on its centerstand. sprocket from the chain. procedure.
2 Whenever the drive chain is inspected, the
sprockets should be inspected also. If you are
replacing the chain, replace the sprockets as
well. Likewise, if the sprockets are in need of
replacement, install a new chain also.
3 Remove the engine sprocket cover (see
Section 15).
4 Attach a dial indicator to the swingarm, with
the plunger of the indicator touching the
sprocket near its outer diameter (see
Illustration). Turn the wheel and measure the
runout. If the runout exceeds the maximum
runout listed in this Chapter’s Specifications,
replace the rear sprocket. As stated before,
it's a good idea to replace the chain and the 16.9 Note the difference between the outer 17.3 To remove the rubber coupling
sprockets as a set. However, if the and inner faces; the inner face (not visible) damper, simply pull it out of the wheel
components are relatively new or in good
has a raised hub
Chapter 8
Fairing, bodywork and frame
Contents
Fairing(lower) - removal and installation........................................... 2 Frame rear section (D models) - removal and installation.................14
Fairing(middle) panels (E models only) - removal and Fuel tank - removal and installation............................... See Chapter 4
■Installation...................................................................................... 3 General inform ation............................................................................. 1
Fairing(upper) - removal and installation ......................................... 6 Mirrors - removal and installation...................................................... 5
Fender/mudguard (front) - removal and installation ......................... 9 Seat - removal and installation ..................................... ................... 7
fender/mudguard (rear) - removal and installation...........................10 Sidestand and centerstand - m aintenance.................i T 77.X ..........12
lllbotpegs and brackets - removal and installation ........................... 11 Side covers - removal and installation ............................. .. s .. 8
frame- inspection and re p a ir............................................................ 13 Windscreen - removal and installation ..................................... .. r r . 4

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for C .. Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, |x Difficult, suitable for Very difficult, \
novicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent ^ experienced DIY ^ suitable for expert DIY
(.experience ^ some experience ^ DIY mechanic ^ mechanic ^ or professional ^

idea to check with local shops before designs. Both are square-section aluminum
1 General inform ation discarding the damaged part. tubing, but D models have a detachable
If you decide to replace the damaged body subframe, while E models use a one-piece
part, first try to find a used part at a design. Like the bodywork, the two frames are
motorcycle salvage yard. If you’re successful, NOT inter-changeable.
the part should be half as much as a new part. In the event that the bike is involved in a
Body parts
If the used part needs to be repainted to major accident, the frame may be damaged. If
Many service and repair operations on match your bike's colors, get an estimate on so, check with your local dealer and find out
tee motorcycles require removal of the what it will cost to have it repainted, then
fairingand/or other body parts. This Chapter whether someone in your area specializes in
compare the price for the used part plus the
covers the removal and installation of these frame straightening. This is a highly
cost of painting it with the retail price for the
parts(see illustrations on pages 8»2-8»6). specialized craft and there aren’t many shops
same new (already painted) part. And don’t try
If the fairing or any other body part is to swap D model body parts with E model which can perform this job, but it’s often
damaged, it must be repaired or replaced. But body parts. They’re NOT interchangeable! considerably less expensive to have the old
tieplastic used to construct the fairing and frame straightened than it is to buy a new
parts cannot be repaired using Frames frame. And if the work is done by a reputable
intional repair techniques. Some shops The two models covered by this manual shop, the straightened frame will be as good
ilize in “plastic welding” , so it’s a good use similar, but slightly different, frame as new.
8*2 Fairing, bodywork and frame

1.1a An exploded view of the frame and fairing assemblies and related components (D models)
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8*3

1.1b An exploded view of the subframe, side covers, rear fender and related components (D models)
8*4 Fairing, bodywork and frame

1.1c An exploded view of the frame assembly and related components (E models)
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8*5

1.1d An exploded view of the fairing assembly and related hardware (E models)
8*6 Fairing, bodywork and frame

1.1e An exploded view of the front and rear fenders, side covers and related components (E models)
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8*7

Remove the cover screws from each side of the bike (E model 1.8 Pull the cover forward to clear the tabs and remove the cover
shown) (E model shown)

Remove the screws (arrow) that attach the lower fairing to the 2.10 To detach the rear ends of the two lower fairing halves from
frame (E model shown) the bike, remove these bolts (arrows)

4 Remove the lower fairing screws and bolts fairing to the bracket under the exhaust pipe
Fairing (lower) - (see illustration 2.9). (see illustration).
removal and installation 5 Carefully maneuver the fairing out from 11 Remove the bolts that attach the lower
under the bike. fairing to the bracket behind the front wheel
6 Installation is the reverse of removal. (see illustration).
12 Remove the three screws from the front
Dmodels E models piece of the lower fairing (see illustration).
Set the bike on its centerstand. 7 Remove the cover screws (see illustration). 13 Carefully maneuver the lower fairing out
the reflector and the cover screws 8 Pull the cover forward to clear the tabs (see from under the bike (see illustration); don’t
jseeillustration 2.7). illustration) and remove the cover. forget that the tabs for the lower fairing halves
3Pull the cover forward to clear the 9 Remove the screws that attach the lower are installed on top of the tabs for the fairing
taos and remove the cover (see illus­ fairing to the frame (see illustration). middle panels.
ion 2.8). 10 Remove the bolts that attach the lower 14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

2.11 To detach the forward ends of the 2.12 To detach the lower fairing halves
lower fairing halves, remove these two from the front piece, remove these three 2.13 Carefully maneuver the lower fairing
bolts (arrows) screws (arrows) assembly off the bike
8*8 Fairing, bodywork and frame

3.2 To detach the trailing edge of the middle fairing panel, 3.3 To detach the upper edge of the middle panel, remove
remove this screw five screws (arrows) and the reflector

4 Remove the middle fairing panels. panel surrounding the instrument cluster (see
3 Fairing (middle) panels (E 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustrations). Remove the panel and the
models only) - removal and windscreen together (see illustration). (WhileI
installation ^ it’s not impossible to remove the windscr
4 Windscreen - by itself - without removing the trim
1 Remove the lower fairing (see Section 2).
removal and installation ^ the upper fairing and the trim panel grip
2 Remove the retaining screw from the back windscreen so tightly that it’s very
of the panel (see illustration). remove the old windscreen, or install an
3 Remove the screws (five on each side) that 1 Remove the screws securing the one, without damaging it.)
attach the middle fairing panels to the upper windscreen to the fairing (see illustration). 3 Installation is the reverse of the remo
fairing (see illustration). 2 Remove the screws that attach the trim procedure. Be sure each screw has a

4.1 To detach the windscreen from the 4.2a To detach the instrument cluster trim 4.2b . . . and this screw, both on the left
upper fairing, remove these screws panel from the fairing on a D model, s id e . . .
(arrows) (E model shown) remove this screw . . .

4.2e To detach the instrument cluster trim


panel from the fairing on an E model,
4.2c . . . remove this screw below the 4.2d . . . and remove these screws remove the screws (arrow, and below the
instrument cluster . . . (arrows) from the right side right end of the panel)
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8*9

4.2f Remove the windscreen and the instrument cluster trim 5.1 To detach either mirror from the upper fairing, remove these
panel, then separate them (E model shown) two nuts (arrows) (E model shown)

sher under its head. Tighten the screws 6 Unplug the electrical connectors for the headlight and the turn signals (see
eurely, but be careful not to overtighten headlight and turn signals. illustration).
n, as the windshield might crack. 7 Remove the cooling duct screws (located 18 Remove the upper fairing assembly.
up inside the cooling ducts on either side of 19 Installation is the reverse of removal.
the upper fairing). Brake junction pipe/horn access panel
Mirrors - 8 Carefully pull the fairing forward and off the
removal and installation IS 20 The small access panel underneath the
bike (see illustration 1.1a). It may be
upper fairing allows access to the brake
necessary to spread the lower sides of the
crossover pipe (see Chapter 7) and the horn
fairing to clear the frame as you do this.
(see Chapter 9). To remove this panel, simply
1Remove the nuts from the two mirror 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.
remove the four retaining screws. Installation
mounting studs (see illustration).
2Remove the mirror E models is the reverse of removal.
3Installation is the reverse of removal. 10 Set the bike on its centerstand.
11 Remove the lower fairing (see Section 2).
12 Remove the left and right trim panels
Fairing (upper) - between the fairing and the tank (see
removal and installation illustrations).
13 Remove the windscreen and the
instrument cluster trim panel (see
illustrations 4.2e and 4.2f).
Dmodels 14 Remove the rear view m irrors (see
1Set the bike on its centerstand. Section 5).
2Remove the lower fairing (see Section 2). 15 Remove the rear fairing mounting screws
4Remove the left and right trim panels (see (see illustration 3.2).
lustrations 4.2a, 4.2b, 4.2c and 4.2d). 16 Loosen the hose clamps for the ram air
Remove the windscreen (see Section 4). ducts, slide them back and detach the ducts
Remove the rear view mirrors (see from the rubber hose (see illustration). 6.12a To remove the left trim panel on
!tlon 5) 17 Unplug the electrical connectors for the E models, remove these screws (arrows)

6,12b To remove the right trim panel on E 6.16 Loosen this hose clamp, slide it back 6.17 Unplug the electrical connectors for
models, remove these screws (arrows) and detach the hose from the ram air duct the headlight and turn signals (arrows)
(E models)
8*10 Fairing, bodywork and frame

8.2 To remove the grab rail, remove these


7.1 To remove the seat from a D model, two bolts (arrows) (E model shown, 8.3a To detach the side cover, remove
remove the bolt from each side of the seat D models similar) screw at the front of the cover...

to the left to release the seat latch located •m


7 Seat - ^ underneath the rear edge of the seat. 8 Side covers -
removal and installation 5 To remove the seat, lift up the rear edge removal and installation
% and pull the seat to the rear.
6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Place
the seat in position, push it forward until the 1 Remove the seat (see Section 7).
D models 2 Remove the grab rail (see illustration). \
tang under the forward part of the seat and
1 Remove the seat bolts (see illustration). 3 Remove the side cover retaining screws
the two side tangs are properly engaged with
2 Pull the seat up and to the rear. and unplug the electrical connector for the
their respective brackets on the frame, then turn signal (see illustrations).
3 Installation is the reverse of removal.
push down firmly on the seat until you hear a 4 Remove the side cover from the bike
E models clicking sound, which indicates the rear latch care. The forward end of the side cover hasa
4 Insert the key into the seat lock and turn it is locked into place. plastic “ stopper” that engages a rub

8.3b . . . this screw on the side of the cover . . . 8.3c . . . these two screws (don’t lose the cargo hooks!)...

8.3d . . . this screw (arrow), which is 8.3e and this screw at the inner end of 8.3f Before removing the side cover on
located underneath the tail lig h t. . . the panel (arrow) E models, unplug the connector for the
turn signal light
Fairing, bodywork and frame 8»11

grommet on the fuel tank. You’ll have to apply


alittle extra force to pull the stopper out of the
grommet, but be careful! This stopper will
easily break off if the side cover is bent at too
sharp an angle during removal.
5 Installation is the reverse of the removal
procedure.

9 F e n d e r/m u d g u a rd (fro n t) -
removal and installation

1Set the bike on its centerstand.


2 Disconnect the speedometer from the 9.4 To remove the front fender, remove 9.5 Remove the fender retaining screws
speedometer drive and pull the cable though the two inner bolts on each side (arrows) from each side
Hieretainer. 17 Remove the lower tie-rod bolt from the 33 Remove the fuel pump, starter and turn
3 Detach the retainers that secure the brake rear shock absorber (see Chapter 6). (This signal relays (see Chapter 9).
hoses to the fender. allows you to lower the rear wheel.) 34 Detach the reservoir for the rear brake
4 Remove the four inner fender retaining bolts 18 Remove the front section of the rear master cylinder (see Chapter 7).
(twoon each side) from inside the fender (see fender by pulling it to the rear, over the top of 35 Remove the IC igniter (see Chapter 5).
Illustration). the lowered rear wheel. 36 Remove the front section retaining bolts
5 Remove the tw o outer fender retaining 19 Installation is the reverse of removal. If (see illustration 1.1e).
screws from the fender (see illustration). you can’t remember the routing for a hose, 37 Remove the front section.
6 Remove the fender by pulling it forward, refer to the cable, wire and hose routing 38 Installation is the reverse of removal.
between the fork legs. schematics which accompany Chapter 2.
7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
E models 11 Footpegs and brackets - %
removal and installation
10 F en d er/m u d g u ard (re a r) - Rear section
removal and installation £ 20 Set the bike on its centerstand.
21 Remove the seat (see Section 7).
22 Remove the side covers (see Section 8). Rider’s left side
Note: All models use a two-piece rear fender. 23 On California models, remove the 1 If it’s only necessary to detach the footpeg
Therear section can be removed separately; evaporative canister (see Chapter 1). from the bracket, pry the C-clip off the pivot
movalofthe front section, however, requires 24 Remove the tool pouch. pin (see illustration), slide out the pin and
that the rear section be removed first. 25 Remove the coolant reservoir (see detach the footpeg from the bracket. Be
Chapter 3). careful not to lose the spring. Installation is
Dmodels the reverse of removal, but be sure to install
26 Remove the tail light bracket (see
Rear section Chapter 9). the spring correctly.
27 Remove the rear and side reflectors from 2 If it’s necessary to remove the entire
1 1Set the bike on its centerstand.
the rear fender. bracket from the frame, mark the relationship
2Remove the seat (see Section 7).
28 Remove the rear section retaining bolts of the shift lever to the shift shaft (see
3Remove the side covers (see Section 8)
(see illustration 1.1e). illustration 15.1 in Chapter 7), then remove
I (Remove the coolant reservoir (see
29 Remove the rear section. the clamp bolt. Slide the lever off the shaft.
I Chapter 3).
30 Installation is the reverse of removal. 3 Unscrew the shift lever pivot bolt (see
1 5 Remove the rear section retaining bolts and
illustration) and the bracket-to-fram e bolt
I nuts(see illustration 1.1b). Front section and separate the footpeg and bracket from
6Remove the rear section of the rear fender
31 Remove the rear section (see Steps 20 the frame.
(see illu s tra tio n 1 .1 b ).
through 29). 4 Installation is the basically the reverse of
m Installation is the reverse of removal.
32 Remove the battery (see Chapter 1). removal. Apply a thin coat of grease to the
Front section
8 Remove the rear section of the rear fender
(seeSteps 1 through 5).
9 Unplug the electrical connectors for the
I brake light, tail light and turn signal lights (see
\\Ghapter 9).
10 Detach the starter relay and the turn
I signal relay and lay them aside, or unplug and
remove them (see Chapter 9).
11 Remove the junction box (see Chapter 9).
12 Remove the igniter (see Chapter 5).
13 Remove the battery breather.
14 Detach the reservoir for the rear brake
master cylinder (see Chapter 7).
15 Remove the battery (see Chapter 1). 11.1 Pry off the C-clip and push out the 11.3 Unscrew the shift lever pivot bolt
16 Remove the front section retaining bolts pivot pin to detach the footpeg from the from the left footpeg bracket
(see illu s tra tio n 1 .1 b ). bracket
8*12 Fairing, bodywork and frame

11.9 To remove the right footpeg and 11.12 To remove either passenger footpeg
bracket from the frame, remove these two bracket, remove the two Allen head bolts
Allen head bolts
shift pedal pivot bolt, and be sure to line up
the matchmarks on the shift lever and shift 12 Sidestand and centerstand - %
shaft. The link rod should be parallel to the maintenance
shift pedal.

Rider’s right side 1 The centerstand (see illustration) pivots on


12.1 An exploded view of the sidestand
5 If it’s only necessary to detach the footpeg two bolts attached to the frame. Periodically,
and centerstand (D model shown, I
from the bracket, pry the C-clip off the pivot remove the pivot bolts and grease them
E model similar)
pin (see illustration 11.1), slide out the pin thoroughly to avoid excessive wear.
and detach the footpeg from the bracket. Be 2 Make sure the return spring is in good weakness at these joints. Loose engine mould
careful not to lose the spring. Installation is condition. A broken or weak spring is an bolts can cause ovaling or fracturing of ti#
the reverse of removal, but be sure to install obvious safety hazard. mounting tabs. Minor damage can often be
the spring correctly. 3 The sidestand (see illustration 12.1) is repaired by welding, depending on the extol
6 If it’s necessary to remove the entire attached to a bracket bolted to the frame. An and nature of the damage.
bracket from the frame, unplug the electrical extension spring anchored to the bracket 3 Remember that a frame which is out o'
connector for the rear brake light switch (see ensures that the stand is held in the retracted alignment will cause handling problems. If]
Chapter 9). position. misalignment is suspected as the result ofarffl
7 Remove the cotter pin from the clevis pin 4 Make sure the pivot bolt is tight and the accident, it will be necessary to strip 111
that attaches the brake pedal to the master extension spring is in good condition and not machine com pletely so the frame can be!
cylinder, then remove the clevis pin (see overstretched. An accident is almost certain thoroughly checked.
Chapter 9). to occur if the stand extends while the
8 Unbolt the master cylinder from the bracket machine is in motion.
(see Chapter 9). 14 Frame rear section
9 Remove the Allen-head bolts that secure (D models only) -
the bracket to the frame (see illustration), 13 Frame - 3S removal and installation
then detach the footpeg and bracket. inspection and repair ^
10 Installation is the reverse of removal. 1 Remove the seat.
2 Remove the side covers (see Chapter 8).
Passenger footpegs and 1 The frame should not require attention 3 Remove the rear fender/mudguard (set
brackets (either side) unless accident damage has occurred. In Section 10).
11 If it’s only necessary to detach the most cases, frame replacement is the only 4 Detach any wiring harness clamps or othef
footpeg from the bracket, pry the C -clip off satisfactory remedy for such damage. A few components which may interfere with removal
the pivot pin (see illustration 4.1), slide out frame specialists have the jigs and other of the frame rear section.
the pin and detach the footpeg from the equipm ent necessary for straightening the 5 Unscrew the bolts and detach the frame
bracket. Be careful not to lose the spring. frame to the required standard of accuracy, rear section (see illustration 1.1b).
Installation is the reverse of removal, but be but even then there is no simple way of 6 If you’re replacing the frame rear section,
sure to install the spring correctly. assessing to what extent the frame may have unbolt the passenger footpeg brackets, the;
12 If it’s necessary to remove the entire been overstressed. seat lock and the helmet lock and install the#
bracket, unscrew the tw o Allen head bolts 2 After the machine has accumulated a lot of on the new rear section.
(see illustration) and detach the bracket from miles, the frame should be examined closely 7 Installation is the reverse of removal
the frame. for signs of cracking or splitting at the welded procedure. Be sure to tighten the bolls
13 Installation is the reverse of removal. joints. Rust corrosion can also cause securely.
Chapter 9
Electrical system
Contents
Bmator- removal and in s ta lla tio n .....................................................32 Headlight bulb - re p la ce m e n t................................................................ 8
Wtemator stator coil - continuity test ...................................................31 Horn - check, replacement and a d ju s tm e n t....................................... 25
Battery - charging.................................................................................... 4 Ignition main (key) switch - check and replacem ent.......................... 20
Battery- inspection and maintenance ................................................ 3 Instrument cluster - removal and installation ..................................... 15
Brakelight switches - check and rep lacem ent................................... 14 Instrument and warning light bulbs - re p la ce m e n t.............................18
Barging system - output test ..............................................................30 Junction box - c h e c k ............................................................................... 6
larging system testing - general information and precautions . . . 29 Lighting system - check ........................................................................ 7
plant temperature sensor and gauge - check Meters and gauges - check and replacement ................................... 16
andreplacement............................................................. See Chapter 3 Neutral switch - check and replacement ............................................23
Coolingfan and thermostatic fan switch - check Oil pressure switch - check and replacem ent..................................... 19
I andreplacement..............................................................See Chapter 3 Sidestand switch - check and re p la c e m e n t........................................24
iKtrical fault finding ............................................................................. 2 Starter motor - disassembly, inspection and reassem bly................. 28
Hlevel system - check and component replacement ..................17 Starter motor - removal and in s ta lla tio n .............................................. 27
Ipl pump (E m o d e ls )......................................................... See Chapter 4 Starter relay - check and replacement ................................................ 26
fuses-check and re p la c e m e n t........................................................... 5 Turn signal and tail light bulbs - rep lacem ent..................................... 11
Jwieral information................................................................................. 1 Turn signal assemblies - removal and installation ............................ 12
Handlebar switches - c h e c k .................................................................. 21 Turn signal circuit - check and component re p la ce m e n t..................13
landlebar switches - removal and in sta lla tio n ................................... 22 Voltage rectifier/regulator - check and replacem ent.......................... 33
padlight aim - check and a d ju s tm e n t................................................ 10 Wiring diagrams ......................................................................................34
flight assembly - removal and in s ta lla tio n ................................... 9

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ Fairly easy, suitable | k Fairly difficult, Difficult, suitable for ^ Very difficult,
Inovicewith little for beginner with suitable for competent experienced DIY 3^ suitable for expert DIY ^
|<Kperience % some experience DIY mechanic ^ mecnanic ^ or professional ^

Specifications
.............................................................................................................. 12 volt, 12Ah (amp hours)
cific gravity
I Fully charged ............................................................................................ ..... 1-280 at 68° F
Pnim um .......................................................................................................... 1.260 at 68° F
ging rate (E models)
I Standard c h a rg e ........................................................................................ ..... 1.2 amps for 5 to 10 hours
j Quick charge.............................................................................................. ..... 5.0 amps for 1 hour

Charging system
larging voltage
IRegulator/rectifier output v o lta g e .................................................................14 to 15 volts
[Alternator output voltage .............................................................................. 45 volts
itor coil resistance .........................................................................................0.2 to 0.6 ohms
9*2 Electrical system

Starter m otor
Brush length
S ta n d a rd .......................................................................................................11.6 to 12.4 mm (0.4570 to 0.4886 inch)
M in im u m .......................................................................................................8.5 mm (0.3349 inch)
Commutator diameter
S ta n d a rd .......................................................................................................27.8 to 28.1 mm (1.0953 inches)
M in im u m .......................................................................................................27 mm (1.0638 inches)

Fuse ratings
Main fuse .........................................................................................................30A
Circuit fuses - D models and E1, E2 models
Accessory fu s e ....................................................................................... .....10A
Fan fuse .......................................................................................................10A
Headlight fu s e ......................................................................................... .....10A
T a illig h t.........................................................................................................10A
Circuit fuses - E3-on models
Accessory f u s e ....................................................................................... .....10A
Fan fuse .......................................................................................................10A
Turn signal fu s e ....................................................................................... .....10A
Horn fuse .....................................................................................................10A
Ignition fuse ........................................................................................... .....10A
Headlight fu s e ......................................................................................... .....10A
T a illig h t.........................................................................................................10A

Torque specifications
Alternator rotor bolt ................................................................................... .... 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs)
Alternator stator b o lts ..................................................................................... 12 Nm (104 in-lbs)
Alternator cover b o lts ..................................................................................... 8.8 Nm (78 in-lbs)
Oil pressure s w itc h ..................................................................................... .... 15 Nm (132 in-lbs)
Neutral s w itc h ............................................................................................. .... 15 Nm (132 in-lbs)

finding include a test light or voltmeter,a


1 General information 2 Electrical fault finding continuity tester (which includes a bulb,
battery and set of test leads) and a jumper
wire. For more extensive checks, a multimeter
capable of measuring ohms, volts and anw
The machines covered by this manual are 1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an will be required. Full details on the use of this
equipped with a 12-volt electrical system. The electrical component, the switches, relays, equipm ent are given in Fault Finding
components include a crankshaft-m ounted etc. related to that component and the wiring Equipment in the Reference section at theetui |
permanent magnet alternator and a solid state and connectors that hook the component to of this manual.
voltage regulator/rectifier unit. both the battery and the frame. To aid in
The regulator maintains the charging locating a problem in any electrical circuit, Battery - inspection
system output within the specified range to complete wiring diagrams of each model are and maintenance
prevent overcharging. The rectifier converts
the AC output of the alternator to DC current
included at the end of this Chapter.
2 Before tackling any troublesome electrical
*
to power the lights and other components and circuit, first study the appropriate diagrams 1 Most battery damage is caused by heat
to charge the battery. thoroughly to get a complete picture of what vibration, and/or low electrolyte levels, so
« The alternator consists of a multi-coil stator makes up that individual circuit. Trouble keep the battery securely mounted, checkM
(bolted to the left-hand engine case) and a spots, for instance, can often be narrowed electrolyte level frequently (D models only)
permanent magnet rotor. down by noting if other components related to and make sure the charging system Is
An electric starter is mounted to the engine that circuit are operating properly or not. If functioning properly.
case behind the cylinder block. The starting several com ponents or circuits fail at one 2 Refer to Chapter 1 for electrolyte level anil-
system includes the motor, the battery, the time, chances are the fault lies in the fuse or specific gravity checking procedures (Dmodi
solenoid, the starter circuit relay (part of the ground connection, as several circuits often only).
junction box) and the various wires and are routed through the same fuse and ground 3 Check around the base inside of the battery
switches. If the engine STOP switch and the connections. for sediment, which is the result of sulfation
main key switch are both in the On position, 3 Electrical problems often stem from simple caused by low electrolyte levels. These
the circuit relay allows the starter m otor to causes, such as loose or corroded deposits will cause internal short circuits,
operate only if the transmission is in Neutral connections or a blown fuse. Prior to any which can quickly discharge the battery. Look
(Neutral switch on) or the clutch lever is pulled electrical troubleshooting, always visually for cracks in the case and replace the battetjf
to the handlebar (clutch switch on) and the check the condition of the fuse, wires and if either of these conditions is found.
sidestand is up (sidestand switch on). connections in the problem circuit. 4 Check the battery terminals and cable ends
Note: Keep in mind that electrical parts, once 4 If testing instruments are going to be for tightness and corrosion. If corrosion Is
purchased, ca n't be returned. To avoid utilized, use the diagrams to plan where you evident, remove the cables from the battery
unnecessary expense, make very sure the will make the necessary connections in order and clean the terminals and cable ends witha
faulty com ponent has been positively to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot. wire brush or knife and emery paper
identified before buying a replacement part. 5 The basic tools needed for electrical fault Reconnect the cables.
Electrical system 9*3

Apply a thin coat of


petroleum jelly to the battery
connections to slow
corrosion.

f the battery case should be kept clean to


prevent current leakage, which can discharge
JH battery over a period of time (especially
when it sits unused). Wash the outside of the
casewith a solution of baking soda and water.
Do not get any baking soda solution in the
battery cells. Rinse the battery thoroughly,
to dry it.
6If acid has been spilled on the frame or
battery box, neutralize it with the baking soda
and water solution, dry it thoroughly, then
touch up any damaged paint. Make sure the
battery vent tube is directed away from the
frameand is not kinked or pinched.
?If the motorcycle sits unused for long
periods of time, disconnect the cables from
'.hebattery terminals and charge the battery
oncea month (see Section 4).

4 Battery - charging

4.13 Battery charge time table (maintenance-free batteries)


Conventional b a tte rie s (D
models) charger leads (red to positive, black to 11 When charging the battery, always
negative), cover the top of the battery with a remove it from the machine and be sure to
Caution: The following procedure applies
clean rag, then, and only then, plug in the check the electrolyte level by looking through
tothe conventional m otorcycle battery battery charger. the translucent battery case before hooking
usedin D models. It does N O T apply to the up the charger. If the electrolyte level is low,
Warning: Remember, the gas
\mintenance-free battery used in E
models. If, after checking a m aintenance-
treebattery’s state o f charge, you decide
A escaping from a charging
battery is explosive, so keep
open flames and sparks well
the battery must be discarded; never remove
the sealing plug to add water.
12 Disconnect the battery cables (negative
tocharge it, follow the m anu facturer’s away from the area. Also, the electrolyte is cable first), then connect a digital voltmeter
instructions shown on the ba tte ry’s label. extremely corrosive and will damage between the battery terminals and measure
Ifthere are no instructions on the battery anything it comes in contact with. the voltage.
itself, follow the procedure below 7 Allow the battery to charge until the specific 13 If terminal voltage is 12.6 volts or higher,
loginning with Step 10. gravity is as specified (refer to Chapter 1 for the battery is fully charged. If it’s lower,
m ifthe machine sits idle for extended periods specific gravity checking procedures). The recharge the battery. Refer to the
f t If the charging system malfunctions, the charger must be unplugged and disconnected accompanying illustration and this Chapter’s
lottery can be charged from an external from the battery when making specific gravity Specifications for charging rate and time (see
prce. checks. If the battery overheats or gases illustration).
K T o properly charge the battery, you will excessively, the charging rate is too high. 14 A quick charge can be used in an
deed a charger of the correct rating, a Either disconnect the charger or lower the emergency, provided the maximum charge
pdrometer, a clean rag and a syringe for charging rate to prevent damage to the battery. rates and times are not exceeded (exceeding
adding distilled water to the battery cells. 8 If one or more of the cells do not show an the maximum rate or time may ruin the
4 The maximum charging rate for any battery increase in specific gravity after a long slow battery). A quick charge should always be
nl/10 of the rated amp/hour capacity. As an charge, or if the battery as a whole does not followed as soon as possible by a charge at
■ample, the maximum charging rate for the seem to want to take a charge, it is time for a the standard rate and time.
Pamp/hour battery would be 1.4 amps. If the new battery. 15 Hook up the battery charger leads
battery is charged at a higher rate, it could be 9 When the battery is fully charged, unplug (positive lead to battery positive terminal,
the charger first, then disconnect the leads negative lead to battery negative terminal),
i Do not allow the battery to be subjected to from the battery. Install the cell caps and wipe then, and only then, plug in the battery
pso-called quick charge (high rate of charge any electrolyte off the outside of the battery charger.
over a short period of time) unless you are case.
prepared to buy a new battery. Warning: The hydrogen gas
$ When charging the battery, always remove
ifrom the machine and be sure to check the
Hfectrolyte level before hooking up the
Maintenance-free batteries (E
models)
10 Charging the maintenance-free battery
A escaping from a charging
battery is explosive, so keep
open flames and sparks well
Charger. Add distilled water to any cells that used on these models requires a digital away from the area. Also, the electrolyte is
rarelow. voltmeter and a variable-voltage charger with extremely corrosive and will damage
8Loosen the cell caps, hook up the battery a built-in ammeter. anything it comes in contact with.
9*4 Electrical system

5.1a To get at the fuses inside the junction box, remove the 5.1b This junction box is on an E model, under the seat, on 1
plastic cover by pulling up on either end the rear fender/mudguard

16 Start charging at a high voltage setting (no 21 When the battery is fully charged, unplug fingertips, use a pair of needle-nose pliers. A
more than 25 volts) and watch the ammeter the charger first, then disconnect the leads blown fuse is easily identified by a break inthe
for about 5 minutes. If the charging current from the battery. Wipe off the outside of element (see illustration).
doesn’t increase, replace the battery with a the battery case and install the battery in the 4 If a fuse blows, be sure to check the wirlng|
new one. bike. harnesses very carefully for evidence of!
17 When the charging current increases short circuit. Look for bare wires and chafe
beyond the specified maximum, reduce the melted or burned insulation. If a fuse i
charging voltage to reduce the charging 5 Fuses - replaced before the cause is located, ther
current to the rate listed in this Chapter’s check and replacement fuse will blow immediately.
Specifications. Do this periodically as the 5 Never, under any circumstances, use I
battery charges. higher rated fuse or bridge the fuse bio
18 Allow the battery to charge for the 1 The fuses are located under the seat, in the terminals, as damage to the electrical
specified time listed in this Chapter’s junction box. The fuses are protected by a could result.
Specifications. If the battery overheats or plastic cover (see illustration) which snaps 6 Occasionally a fuse will blow or causean
gases excessively, the charging rate is too on and off. The junction box (see illustration) open circuit for no obvious reason.
high. Either disconnect the charger or lower fuses (see Specifications for details) protect
the charging rate to prevent damage to the individual circuits from damage caused by Corrosion of the fuse ends
battery. short circuits. A couple of spare 10A fuses are HAYNES
and fuse block terminals
19 After the specified time, unplug the included for roadside repairs. may occur and cause poor
charger first, then disconnect the leads from 2 If you have a test light, the fuses can be fuse contact. If this
the battery. checked without removing them. Turn the happens, remove the corrosion with a
20 Wait 30 minutes, then measure voltage ignition to the On position, connect one end of wire brush or emery paper, then spray
between the battery terminals. If it’s 12.6 volts the test light to a good ground, then probe the fuse end and terminals with
or higher, the battery is fully charged. If it’s each terminal on top of the fuse. If the fuse is electrical contact cleaner.
between 12.0 and 12.6 volts, charge the good, there will be voltage available at both
battery again (refer to this Chapter’s terminals. If the fuse is blown, there will only
Specifications and illustration 4.13 for charge be voltage present at one of the terminals.
rate and time). If it’s less than 12.0 volts, it's 3 The fuses can be removed and checked
time for a new battery. visually. If you can’t pull the fuse out with your 6 Junction box - check

1 Aside from serving as the fuse block, I


junction box also houses two relays - tN
starter circuit relay (not the starter solenoic
and the headlight relay. Neither of these relay;
is replaceable individually. If either relay fa
the junction box must be replaced.
2 In addition to the relay checks, the fu&
circuits and diode circuits should be check®
N orm al Failed also, to rule out the possibility of an op
circuit condition or blown diode within I
junction block as the cause of an electric
problem. Schematics of the junction box i
5.3 A blown fuse is identified by a broken element - replace a blown fuse with one of the be found in the wiring diagrams at the (
same rating this Chapter.
Electrical system 9*5

Meter Connection Meter Reading ( f l)

1 -2 0

■1 - 3B 0

6 -7 0
©
6 -1 7 0

•8 -1 7
7
00

oo
t
('): US, Canada Models only

6.4a Fuse test connections -


D model and E1, E2 models

Fuse circuit check ®@©@ 6 o ©®


3 Remove the junction box by sliding it out of
ilts holder. Unplug the electrical connectors —i iP^nl r~~
fromthe box. © (D ® ©
■4If the terminals are dirty or bent, clean and ® ®0®(5D
ighten them. Using the accompanying 0 0 ®
table as a guide, check the continuity across 10-Pin C o nnector 8-Pin C onnector
the indicated terminals with an ohmmeter -
me should have no resistance and others 6.4b Junction box circuit - D model and E1, E2 models
ould have infinite resistance (see A 10 amp accessory fuse D Headlight relay* G Diodes for interlock circuit
stations). B 10 amp fan fuse E Diodes* H 10 amp taillight fuse
5If the resistance values are not as specified, C 10 amp headlight fuse F Starter circuit relay *US and Canada only
place the junction box.

Diode circuit check 8 Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and much in the other direction. If the readings for
check the resistances again, writing down the any pair of terminals are low or high in both
6Remove the junction box by sliding it out of readings. The resistances should be low in directions, a diode is defective and the
Its holder. Unplug the electrical connectors one direction and more than ten times as junction box must be replaced.
fromthe box.
7Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance
to s s the following pairs of terminals, then
Wriledown the readings.
're are the terminal pairs to be checked:
13and 8 (US and Canadian models only)
13and 9 (US and Canadian models only) ©
12and 14
15and 14 ©
16and 14

Tester Connection Tester Reading (Q )

1 - 1A

1 -2
3A - 4 ©
6 -5
6-10
6 -7 © @ © @ > © © @ © (7 ) © (H )
6-17
&
Tester Connection Tester Reading ( f l )

1A-8
2-8
3A - 8
6-2 6.4d Junction box circuit - E3-on models
6 - 3A 10 amp accessory fuse E 10 amp ignition fuse J Starter circuit relay
17-3A B 10 amp fan fuse F 10 amp headlight fuse K Diodes for interlock circuit
C 10 amp turn signal relay G Headlight relay* L 10 amp taillight fuse
6.4c Fuse test connections - fuse H Headlight diodes* *US and Canada only
E3-on models D 10 amp horn fuse I Starter diode
9*6 Electrical system

R e la y C ir c u it I n s p e c tio n ( w it h th e b a t t e r y d is c o n n e c te d )

Relay Circuit Inspection Tester Connection Tester Reading {Cl)

(with the battery disconnected) *7 -8 00


Headlight •7 - 13 00
Meter Connection Meter Reading (Q)

T
w i
Relay

CO
Not oo ”
Headlight *7-8 00
Relay *7 - 13 00
Tester Connection Tester Reading (Q)
Starter 11 - 13 00
9 -1 1 00
Relay 12 - 13 oo
Starter Circuit 12 - 13 00
Relay (+ ) (")
13 - 11 00
Relay Circuit Inspection
(+ ) (-)
(with the battery connected) 12 - 11 Not oo • '

Battery Meter
Meter
Connection Reading R e la y C ir c u it In s p e c tio n ( w ith th e b a t t e r y c o n n e c te d )

Connection Battery Tester


+ - (0 ) Connection
Tester
Reading
Connection
(+) (-) (Q)
Headlight
00
*

*9 - 13 0
-j

Headlight Relay "9-13 *7-8 0


i

Relay
(+) (")
Starter Circuit Relay 11 - 12 13 - 1 1 Not oo "
Starter Relay 11 - 13 11 - 12 0
( ') : US, Canada, and Australia Models only
( “ ): The actual reading varies w ith the hand tester used.
(*) : US, Canada Models only (+ ): Apply tester positive lead.
( - ) : Apply tester negative lead.

6.10a Junction box relay check - D models and E1, E2 models 6.10b Junction box relay check - E3-on models
With the junction box unplugged, there should be infinite resistance With the junction box unplugged, there should be infinite resistance
between the indicated terminals and no resistance (continuity) when between the indicated terminals and no resistance (continuity) when
battery voltage is applied battery voltage is applied

Relay checks Headlight 5 If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring


between the tail light or license plate light andij
9 Remove the junction box by sliding it out of 2 If the headlight is out with the engine
the main (key) switch, then check the switch
its holder. Unplug the electrical connectors running (US and Canadian models) or with the
itself.
from the box. lighting switch in the On position (UK models),
10 Using an ohmmeter, check the check the fuse first with the key On (see Brake lights
conductivity across the terminals indicated in Section 5), then unplug the electrical 6 See Section 14 for the brake light circuit
the accompanying table (see illustrations). connector for the headlight (see illustration) checking procedure.
Then, energize each relay by applying battery and use jumper wires to connect the bulb
voltage across the indicated terminals and directly to the battery terminals. If the light Neutral indicator light
check the conductivity across the comes on, the problem lies in the wiring or 7 If the neutral light fails to operate when the
corresponding terminals shown on the table. one of the switches in the circuit. Refer to transmission is in Neutral, check the fuses
11 If the junction box fails any of these tests, Sections 20 and 21 for the switch testing and the bulb (see Section 18 for bulb removal
it must be replaced. procedures, and also the wiring diagrams at procedures). If the bulb and fuses are in good
the end of this Chapter. condition, check for battery voltage at the
3 US and Canadian models have a headlight light green wire attached to the neutral switch
relay in the junction box (see Section 6). On
7 Lighting system - check
% these models, the headlight doesn’t come on
when the ignition switch is first turned on, but
comes on when the starter button is pressed
and stays on until the ignition is turned off. If
1 The battery provides power for operation of the engine stalls, the light goes out, and stays
the headlight, tail light, brake light, license off while the starter is operated, to prevent
plate light and instrument cluster lights. If excessive strain on the battery).
none of the lights operate, always check
battery voltage before proceeding. Low Tail light/license plate lights
battery voltage indicates either a faulty 4 If the tail light fails to work, or isn’t as bright
battery, low battery electrolyte level or a as it should be, check the bulbs (there are
defective charging system. Refer to Chapter 1 two) and the bulb terminals first, then check
for battery checks and Section 30 and 31 for for battery voltage at the red wire in the tail
charging system tests. Also, check the light. If voltage is present, check the ground
condition of the fuses and replace any blown circuit for an open or a poor connection. 7.2 Unplug the electrical connector for the
fuses with new ones. Check the license plate light the same way. headlight
Electrical system 9»7

8.2 Grasping the tab at the bottom of the dust cover, carefully 8.3a To unlock the bulb holder, release the wire retainer . . .
peel the cover off

onthe left side of the engine. If battery voltage


Be sure not to touch the
I present, refer to Section 23 for the neutral
switch check and replacement procedures.
HAYNES
headlight bulb with your
10 Headlight aim -
check and adjustment %
&
I no voltage is indicated, check the brown h in t fingers - oil from your skin
will cause the bulb to
wirebetween the junction box and the bulb,
overheat and fail prematurely. If you do
pd the light green wire between the junction 1 An improperly adjusted headlight may cause
touch the bulb, wipe it off with a clean
box and the switch and between the switch problems for oncoming traffic or provide poor,
rag dampened with rubbing alcohol.
and the bulb for open circuits and poor unsafe illumination of the road ahead. Before
connections. adjusting the headlight, be sure to consult with
5 The parking (or city) light on UK models is
local traffic laws and regulations.
Oil pressure w a rn in g lig h t positioned in the base of the headlight unit. Peel
2 The headlight beam can be adjusted both
9SeeSection 19 for the oil pressure warning back the rubber dust cover and pull the bulb
vertically and horizontally. Before performing
Sghtcircuit check. holder out of the grommet in the headlight. the adjustment, make sure the fuel tank has at
Twist the bulb counterclockwise to release it. least a half tank of gas, and have an assistant
sit on the seat.
Headlight bulb -
replacement I Headlight assembly - 3 Remove the trim panel around the
instrument cluster and unbolt the cluster (see
I removal and installation
Section 15). It isn’t necessary to unplug
anything; but pulling the cluster back slightly
1Remove the upper fairing (see Chapter 8). will give you enough room to reach the
2Remove the dust cover from the headlight 1 Remove the upper fairing (see Chapter 8). horizontal and vertical headlight adjusters.
(seeillustration). 2 Remove the screws holding the headlight 4 Insert a Phillips screwdriver into the
3Lift up the retaining clip and swing it out of assembly to the fairing (see illustration). horizontal adjuster guide (see illustration),
llieway (see illustration). Remove the bulb Separate the headlight assembly from the then turn the adjuster as necessary to center
holder (see illustration). fairing. the beam.
4 When installing the new bulb, reverse the 3 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure 5 To adjust the vertical position of the beam,
oval procedure. to adjust the headlight aim (see Section 10). turn the adjuster knob (see illustration 10.4),

8.3b ... then remove the bulb holder from 9.2 To remove the headlight assembly 10.4 To adjust horizontally, turn the screw
its socket from the fairing, remove these four bolts (left arrow); to adjust vertically, turn the
(arrows) knob (right arrow)
9*8 Electrical system

11.1a To detach a front turn signal 11.1b To detach a rear turn signal lens, 11.2a To remove a bulb holder from I
assembly, remove this screw (arrow) remove this screw (E model shown) front turn signal assembly, turn it
(E model shown) counterclockwise and pull out

located at the lower right corner of the in and turn the bulb clockwise until it locks in clean it if necessary. Line up the pins on t
headlight assembly, to raise or lower the place. Note: The pins on the bulb are offset so new bulb with the slots in the socket, |
beam. it can only be installed one way. and turn the bulb clockwise until it locksii
6 Install the instrument cluster and trim panel. place. It is a good idea to use a paper towel c
It is a good idea to use a dry cloth when handling the new bulb1
HAYNES
paper towel or dry cloth increase bulb life and to prevent injury li t
11 Turn signal and tail light § when handling a new bulb to bulb breaks. Note: The pins on the bulb <
bulbs - replacement *§§ prevent injury if the bulb offset so it can only be installed one way.
should break, and to 7 Make sure the rubber gaskets are in pla
increase bulb life. and in good condition, then line uptheta
on the holder with the slots in the housing 2
Turn signal bulbs push the holder into the mounting hole.'
1 If you’re replacing a front turn signal bulb, 3 Position the lens on the turn signal housing clockwise until it stops to lock it in placi
remove the retaining screw from the lens (see and install the screw. Be careful not to Note: The tabs and slots are two differ
illustration) and pull out the turn signal overtighten it. sizes so the holders can only be installed c
assembly. If you're replacing a rear turn signal way.
bulb, remove the lens retaining screw (see Tail light/brake light bulbs 8 Install the seat.
illustration) and remove the lens. Note: There are actually two tail light/brake
2 To remove a front turn signal bulb, remove light bulbs. They're both replaced the same
License plate light bulb
the bulb holder (see illustration), then way. 9 Remove the license plate lens retainir
remove the bulb from the holder by pushing 4 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8). screws (see illustration).
the bulb in and turning it counterclockwise. 5 Turn the bulb holder counterclockwise (see 10 Turn the bulb counterclockwise unti
Rear turn signal bulbs can be removed from illustration) until it stops, then pull straight stops, then pull straight out to remove it fro
the holder without removing the holder from out to remove it from the tail light housing. the housing.
the turn signal assembly (see illustration). The bulb can be removed from its holder by 11 Installation is the reverse of removal. 8
Check the socket terminal for corrosion and turning it counterclockw ise and pulling sure to install the lens so that the "TOP" ma
clean them if necessary. Line up the pins on straight out. on the lens faces up. And don’t overtightei
the new bulb with the slots in the socket, push 6 Check the socket terminal for corrosion and the lens retaining screws.

11.2b To remove a rear turn signal bulb from a holder, push it in, 11.5 To replace a tail light/brake light bulb, push in and I
turn it counterclockwise and pull it out counterclockwise, then pull out
Electrical system 9*9

when the switch is activated in either


direction, replace the relay.
Replacement
7 Remove the left side cover, if you haven’t
already done so (see Chapter 8).
8 Simply detach the relay assembly from its
rubber mounting and unplug the relay from
the base (see illustration).
9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

14 Brake light switches - f^,


11,9 To remove the license plate light lens, 12.5 To remove a rear turn signal check and replacement ^
remove these screws (arrows) assembly from a side cover, remove these
three screws (arrows)
for battery checks and Sections 30 and 31 for
12 Turn signal assemblies - J|> charging system tests. Also, check the fuses Circuit check
, removal and installation ^ (see Section 5). Note: The following circuit check applies to
2 Most turn signal problems are the result of either the front or rear brake light circuits.
a burned out bulb or corroded socket, 1 Before checking any electrical circuit,
particularly when the turn signals function check the fuses (see Section 5).
Front turn s ig n a ls properly in one direction, but fail to flash in the 2 Using a test light connected to a good
1 Remove the lens retaining screw (see other direction. Check the bulbs and the ground, check for voltage to the brown wire at
lustration 11.1a). sockets (see Section 11). the brake light switch. If there’s no voltage
[2 Remove the bulb holder from the turn signal 3 If the bulbs and sockets check out okay, present, check the brown wire between the
^assembly (see illustration 11.2a). remove the left side cover (see Chapter 8), switch and the junction box (see the wiring
3Installation is the reverse of removal. turn the ignition switch to On and check for diagrams at the end of this Chapter).
voltage at the turn signal relay (see 3 If voltage is available at the brown wire
Hear turn s ig n a ls illustration). There should be battery voltage between the brake light switch and the
U Remove the side cover (see Chapter 8). at both the orange/green wire, which brings junction box, touch the probe of the test light
iiJSRemove the turn signal assembly retaining voltage from the ignition switch to the relay, to the other terminal of the front or rear brake
Screws (see illustration). and at the orange wire, which delivers voltage light switch, then pull the front brake lever or
■6Installation is the reverse of removal. from the relay to the turn signal switch. depress the rear brake pedal. The test light
4 If there’s no power at the orange/green should come on.
wire, check the wire back to the ignition 4 If the test light doesn’t come on, replace the
switch. If the orange/green wire is okay, front or rear brake light switch.
13 Turn signal circuit - check
and component replacement
% check the ignition switch itself (see
Section 20).
5 If the test light does come on, check the
wiring between the switch and the brake lights
5 If there’s no voltage at the orange wire,
(see the wiring diagrams at the end of this
check the orange wire back to the turn s
Chapter).
ignal switch. If the orange wire is okay,
Check check the turn signal switch itself (see
1 The battery provides power for operation of Section 21). Switch replacement
She signal lights, so if they don’t operate, 6 Activate the turn signal switch in both
iways check the battery voltage and specific directions and verify that there’s voltage at the Front brake lever switch
gravity first. Low battery voltage indicates black/yellow wire at the relay. There should be 6 Unplug the electrical connectors from the
either a faulty battery, low electrolyte level or a voltage in this wire when the left or the right switch (see illustration).
^elective charging system. Refer to Chapter 1 turn signals are activated. If there’s no voltage 7 Remove the mounting screw (see

13.3 The turn signal relay (flasher) is 13.8 Lift up the relay to free it from its 14.6 Unplug the connectors (A) from the
behind (D models) or ahead of (E models) rubber mounting, then unplug it from the switch, then remove the switch retaining
the battery base (E model shown) screw (B)
9*10 Electrical system

14.10 Disengage the lower end of the rear brake light switch 14.11 Back off the adjuster nut (arrow) and unscrew the switch
spring from the brake pedal spring from its bracket

illustration 14.6) and detach the switch from relay and fuel level warning light relay on D 11 Loosen the adjuster nut (see illustratio
the master cylinder. models; below the IC igniter on E models) and and unscrew the switch.
8 Installation is the reverse of removal unplug the connector. (On E models, you’ll 12 Installation is the reverse of removal. Ma
procedure. have to unbolt the IC igniter to reach the sure the switch spring is properly engag
connector.) with the switch plunger (see illustration).
Rear brake pedal switch 10 Disengage the switch return spring from 13 Adjust the switch (see Chapter
9 Trace the electrical leads (brown and the brake pedal return spring (see Section 10).
blue/red on D models; brown and blue on E illustration). (The switch return spring is the
models) from the top of the switch to the little spring; the brake pedal return spring is
electrical connector (below the fuel sensor the bigger spring.) 15 Instrument cluster -
removal and installation

1 Remove the windscreen and the instrui


cluster trim panel (see Chapter 8).
2 Unplug the electrical connectors from
cluster harness and detach the speedoi
cable from the speedometer
illustrations).
3 Remove the instrument cluster mouni
bolts (see illustration) and detach the cli
from the upper fairing mount.
4 If you’re replacing the old instrumi
cluster, remove the cluster mounting brackfil
(see illustration) and transfer it to the
14.12 Make sure the upper end of the 15.2a Unplug the electrical connector for cluster. Be sure to replace the three clusl
switch spring (arrow) is properly engaged the instrument cluster to-bracket bushings if they’re cracked orti
with the switch plunger 5 Installation is the reverse of removal,

15.2b Unscrew the threaded ferrule and 15.3 Remove the instrument cluster 15.4 To remove the mounting bracket
disconnect the speedometer cable from mounting bolts (arrow) from the old cluster, remove these bolt
the speedometer (arrows) and washers
Electrical system 9*11

4 If it’s necessary to replace the gauge, Clock (E5-on models)


remove the instrument cluster (see
13 No test details are available with which to
Section 15). Remove the fasteners that secure
check the digital clock. If it is not working,
the cluster mounting bracket to the cluster
check the wiring connections and wires for
(see illustration 15.4) and detach the
continuity before fitting a new clock.
bracket.
14 Access the clock by following Steps 4 and
5 Unscrew the trip reset knob (see
5 above. The clock is secured by two screws.
illustration). Remove the three screws that
secure the instrument cluster cover (see
illustration). Detach the cover. 17 Fuel level system -
Caution: When the cluster cover is check and component ^
removed, always store the cluster with the replacement 3*
gauges facing up or in a horizontal
16.2Bridge the two terminals of the female position - never in a face-down position,
side of the connector for the fuel level which could damage the unit. D models
sensor 6 Mark the positions of the wires and remove 1 D models have a low fuel warning system
the three small screws that secure the gauge (see illustration overleaf). When the ignition
to the cluster housing (see illustration 16.5b). switch is turned on, the low fuel level warning
16 Meters and gauges - ^ 7 Detach the gauge from the housing, being lights should flash (indicating that the bulbs
| check and replacement ^ careful not to disturb the other components. are okay), then go out. If the fuel level is low,
8 Installation is the reverse of the removal the lights should continue to flash until fuel is
procedure. added. If the system doesn’t function
Fuel gauge (E m odels) Temperature gauge properly, inspect it as follows.
1To check the operation of the fuel gauge, 9 Refer to Chapter 3 for the temperature Warning system inspection
remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). gauge checking procedure. It’s part of the 2 If the warning lights don’t flash when the
2Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Coolant temperature sensor and gauge - ignition switch is turned on, check the warning
Using a jumper wire, bridge the terminals of check and replacement procedure. light bulbs, the oil pressure switch, the
m female side of the fuel level sensor 10 The procedure for replacing the coolant rectifier and the wiring.
connector (the wiring harness side - not the temperature gauge is exactly the same as for 3 If the warning lights don’t flash when the
wires that lead back to the fuel tank) (see the fuel level gauge, except that the gauge is engine runs and the fuel level is low, check the
Illustration). If the fuel level gauge is working on the other end of the instrument cluster. fuel level warning light.
properly, the needle will swing past the full See Steps 4 through 8. a) If the warning light is operating okay,
(narkon the gauge. replace the fuel level sensor.
Caution: Don’t leave the wire grounded Tachometer and speedometer b) If the warning light is not operating
longer than necessary to perform this 11 Special instruments are required to properly, check the warning system
check. If you do, the gauge could be properly check the operation of these meters. wiring.
damaged With the wire disconnected, the Take the instrument cluster to a Kawasaki c) If the wiring is okay, check the fuel level
needle should fall to the empty mark. dealer service department or other qualified sensor relay.
3 If the gauge doesn’t respond as described, repair shop for diagnosis. d) If the fuel level sensor is okay, check the
either the wiring is defective or the gauge itself 12 The replacement procedure for either of fuel level warning light relay.
Is malfunctioning. If the gauge does pass the these meters is also essentially the same as 4 If the fuel level isn’t low, but the warning
above test, the fuel level sensor is defective the fuel level gauge replacement procedure. lights remain on, check the warning system
(seeSection 17). Follow Steps 4 through 8. wiring. If the wiring is okay, check the fuel

16.5a Before removing the cover from the instrument cluster, 16.5b To remove the cover from the instrument cluster, remove
unscrew the trip reset knob these four screws (large arrows)
To remove the fuel level gauge, the coolant temperature gauge, the
speedometer or the tachometer, label the leads and remove the
retaining screws (small arrows)
9*12 Electrical system

17.6 Unplug the two-pin electrical


connector (A) for the low fuel level sensof
(D models)

17.1 Low fuel level warning system circuit (D models)


1 Level sensor 4 Rectifier (diode) 7 Oil pressure switch
2 Level sensor relay 5 Oil pressure warning light 8 Ignition (main) switch
3 Warning light relay 6 Fuel level warning lights 9 Battery
level warning light relay or replace the fuel fuel level warning lights should go off when
level sensor. the connector is unplugged. Now short the
5 If the warning lights go on and off connector wires - the warning lights should 17.8 Fuel level sensor relay (A) and fuel
intermittently, check the following: flash. If the lights operate as described, level warning light relay (B) (D models)
a) Verify that the fuel level is not low. replace the fuel level sensor.
b) Verify that the wiring is not shorting out Fuel level warning light relay check Fuel level sensor relay check
against other parts.
7 Remove the right side cover (see 11 Remove the right side cover (see
c) Verify that battery charging voltage is
Chapter 8). Chapter 8).
adequate.
8 Remove the fuel level warning light relay 12 Remove the fuel level sensor relay (see
If the fuel level is not, the battery isn’t shorting
(see illustration). illustration 17.8).
out and battery charging voltage is okay,
9 Connect a 12-volt battery and two 3-watt 13 Hook up an ohmmeter and 12-volt batti
replace the fuel level sensor.
bulbs as indicated (see illustration), and count as shown (see illustration). Flip the
Fuel level warning light operation how many times the lights flash for one minute. resistance range knob on the ohmmeter to the
6 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) and If the relay is operating properly, they should 1-ohm scale. When the battery is connect)
locate the fuel level sensor connector (see flash between 140 and 200 times a minute. there should be zero resistance; when the
illustration). Turn the ignition switch on, then 10 If the warning lights don’t operate as battery is disconnected, there should be
unplug the fuel level sensor connector. The described, replace the relay. infinite resistance.

12 V Battery

17.9 Connect a 12-volt battery and two bulbs, and count how 17.13 Hook up an ohmmeter (1) and 12-volt battery (2) and seled
many times the lights flash in one minute the 1-ohm scale on your ohmmeter
Electrical system 9*13

17.16 The low fuel level rectifier (A) is 17.20 Remove these bolts (arrows) and pull 17.21 Measure the resistance of the fuel
inside the
upper left corner of the upper the sensor assembly out level sensor at the empty and full positions
fairing
14 If the relay doesn’t operate as described, present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, 23 If the sensor fails either test, replace it. Be
place it. wear latex gloves when there’s a sure to tighten the bolts securely, but don't
Rectifier check possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if overtighten them.
Note: This device, which is part o f the low fuel you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
level warning system on D models, is actually immediately with soap and water. Mop up
tidiode. “Rectifier" is Kawasaki's term. any spills immediately and do not store 18 Instrument and warning light ^
Remove the upper inner trim panels fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. bulbs - replacement jp
etween the upper fairing and the fuel tank) When you perform any kind of work on the
[ andthe windscreen (see Chapter 8). fuel system, wear safety glasses and have
16 Pull the rectifier (see illustration) out of a fire extinguisher suitable for a class B 1 Remove the instrument cluster (see
i main wiring harness. type fire (flammable liquids) on hand. Section 15).
17 Zero your ohmmeter and hook it up to 19 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). 2 To replace a bulb, pull the appropriate
|;each terminal of the rectifier and check the Drain the fuel into an approved fuel container. rubber socket out of the back of the
resistance in both directions. Resistance 20 Remove the sending unit mounting bolts instrument cluster housing (see illustration),
fshould be low in one direction and more than (see illustration) and remove the sending unit then pull the bulb out of the socket (see
[10times as much in the other direction. illustration). If the socket contacts are dirty or
from the tank - be extremely careful not to
18 If your ohmmeter indicates high or low corroded, they should be scraped clean and
bend or damage the sensor arm or float.
resistance in both directions, replace the sprayed with electrical contact cleaner before
21 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
[ rectifier. new bulbs are installed.
resistance across the terminals of the sensor
3 Carefully push the new bulb into position,
Emodels electrical connector (see illustration). With
then push the socket into the cluster housing.
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is the float in the full position, the resistance

A extremely flammable, so take


extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel
should be low (around 3 to 4 ohms); with the
float in the empty position, the resistance
should be high (about 100 to 110 ohms).
19 Oil pressure switch -
check and replacement
system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames 22 If the sensor is okay, check the wiring
orbare light bulbs near the work area, and between the sensor and the fuel level gauge
don’t work in a garage where a natural (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this 1 If the oil pressure warning light fails to
gas-fype appliance (such as a water Chapter). If the wiring is okay, check the operate properly, check the oil level and make
heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is gauge itself (see Section 16). sure it is correct.

18.2a To remove a bulb holder from the instrument, simply pull 18.2b To remove a bulb from a holder, simply pull the bulb
the holder straight out straight out
9»14 Electrical system

19.2a The oil pressure switch (arrow) is on 19.2b Disconnect the wire, turn on the 20.2 Unplug the electrical connector
the left side of the engine, in front of the ignition main (key) switch and ground the (arrow) for the ignition main (key) switch
water pump end of the wire

I GN I T IONS
TB I I 2
c o lo r
OFF, LOCK

20.3a Continuity table for the ignition main (key) switch terminals 20.3b Continuity table for the ignition main (key) switch terminals
(US and Canadian models) (UK models)

2 If the oil level is correct, disconnect the wire the terminal pairs indicated in the ignition the shear-head bolts in a counterclockwise
from the oil pressure switch (see illustration). switch continuity table (see illustrations). direction to unscrew them. If they’re too tight
Turn on the ignition main (key) switch on and Continuity should exist between the terminals and won’t turn, carefully drill holes through the
ground the end of the wire (see illustration). If connected by a solid line when the switch is in centers of the bolts and unscrew them usinga
the light comes on, the oil pressure switch is the indicated position. screw extractor (E-Z out). If necessaq
defective and must be replaced with a new 4 If the switch fails any of the tests, replace it. remove the fairing mount for better access to
one (only after draining the engine oil). the bolts. Detach the switch from the uppe
3 If the light does not come on, check the oil
Replacement
clamp.
pressure warning light bulb, the wiring 5 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4) and 8 Hold the new switch in position and insta
between the oil pressure switch and the light, unplug the switch electrical connector, if you the new shear-head bolts. Tighten the bolts
and between the light and the junction box haven’t already done so. until the heads break off.
(see the wiring diagrams at the end of this 6 Remove the instrument cluster (see
9 The remainder of installation is the reverse
Chapter). Section 15). Remove the upper triple clamp
of removal.
4 To replace the switch, drain the engine oil (see Chapter 6) and flip it over.
(see Chapter 1) and unscrew the switch from 7 The switch is attached to the upper clamp
the case. Wrap the threads of the new switch with two shear-head bolts (see illustration). 21 Handlebar switches -
with Teflon tape or apply a thin coat of sealant Using a hammer and a sharp punch, knock check
on them, then screw the switch into its hole
and tighten it to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
1 Generally speaking, the switches are
5 Fill the crankcase with the recommended
reliable and trouble-free. Most troubles, when
type and amount of oil (see Chapter 1) and
they do occur, are caused by dirty or
check for leaks.
corroded contacts, but wear and breakage of
internal parts is a possibility that should not
20 Ignition main (key) switch -
check and replacement
% be overlooked. If breakage does occur, tha
entire switch and related wiring harness will
have to be replaced with a new one, since
individual parts are not usually available.
2 The switches can be checked for continuity
Check with an ohmmeter or a continuity test lig
1 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Always disconnect the battery ground cable,
2 Unplug the switch electrical connector (see 20.7 To detach the ignition main (key) which will prevent the possibility of a short
illustration). switch, drill out these two shear-head circuit, before making the checks.
3 Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity of bolts (arrows) 3 Trace the wiring harness of the susped
Electrical system 9*15

LEFT HANDLEBAR SWITCH CONNECTIONS


Horn Button Hazard Switch Turn Signal Switch Dimmer Switch Starter Lockout Switch
BK/W Color GY Color GY R/BK B L /Y R /Y B K /Y BK/R
Color B K /Y
US/Canadian
ON (Push)
N IO FF models
Push |
OFF

RIGHT HANDLEBAR SWTICH CONNECTIONS


Engine Stop Switch Starter Burton Front Brake Light Switch
Color Y /R R Color BK/R BK/R Color BK BK US/C anadian models
OFF PUSH Released
RUN C— - O Released Pulled In O "-O

LEFT H A N D LEB AR SWITCH CONNECTIONS

Horn Burton Passing Button Turn Signal Switch Dimmer Switch Starter Locko ut Switch
Color BK/Y BK/W Color R/BK BR Color GY o G Color R/BK B L /Y R /Y Color B K /Y BK BK/R
UK models
Released Released R O— —o
N (OFF, PUSH) i
HI Released ■■C
ON ON
C ^m -O L LO PU LL
IPUSH) (PUSH)

RIG H T HA N D LEB AR SWITCH CONNECTIONS


Engine Stop Switch Starter Button Headlight Switch Front Brake Light Switch
Color Y/R R Color BK/R BK /R Color R/W R /B L BL B L /Y Color BK BK
OFF OFF Released UK models
RUN O—
PUSH

Released
O
ON
o»1
Pulled in

21.4 Continuity tables for the handlebar switches

switch and unplug the electrical connectors. engine case (see Chapter 7, Section 15). Slide
4 Using the ohmmeter or test light, check for 23 Neutral switch - ||| off the sprocket cover. (If you do know where
continuity between the terminals of the switch check and replacement §§ the switch is located, it’s not absolutely
harness with the switch in the various positions necessary to remove the sprocket cover,
(see illustration). Continuity should exist because you can reach up under the bottom
between the terminals connected by a solid edge of the cover, unplug the lead and test the
linewhen the switch is in the indicated position. Check switch without actually removing the cover.
5 If the continuity check indicates a problem, 1 Mark the position of the shift lever to the 3 Disconnect the wire from the neutral switch
refer to Section 22, disassemble the switch shift lever shaft (see Chapter 7, Section 15). (see illustration). Connect one lead of an
and spray the switch contacts with electrical Remove the shift lever pinch bolt and slide the ohmmeter to a good ground and the other
contact cleaner. If they’re accessible, the lever off the shaft. lead to the post on the switch (see
2 If you don’t know what the neutral switch illustration).
.contacts can be scraped clean with a knife or
looks like or where it is, remove the bolts 4 When the transmission is in neutral, the
polished with crocus cloth. If switch
securing the engine sprocket cover to the ohmmeter should indicate zero resistance; in
components are damaged or broken, it will be
obvious when the switch is disassembled.

22 Handlebar s w itc h e s - §j^


removal and installation gs

il The handlebar switches are composed of


two halves that clamp around the bars. They
areeasily removed for cleaning or inspection
by taking out the clamp screws and pulling
theswitch halves away from the handlebars.
2To completely remove the switches, the
electrical connectors in the wiring harness
should be unplugged. The right side switch 23.3a The neutral switch (A) is located on 23.3b Unplug the light green wire from the
must be separated from the throttle cables, the left side of the engine, just behind the switch and attach an ohmmeter to the
also. water pump; the connector (B) and the switch and to ground
13When installing the switches, make sure the other two leads are for the sidestand Note that the sprocket cover is installed; you
I wiring harnesses are properly routed to avoid switch can unplug the neutral switch without
■pinching or stretching the wires. removing the cover
9*16 Electrical system

models, remove the small panel from


underside of the upper fairing.
2 Unplug the electrical connectors from the|
horn. Using two jumper wires, apply battei
voltage directly to the terminals on the hom.K
the horn sounds, check the horn switch (see
Section 21) and the wiring between the switch']
and the horn (see the wiring diagrams at 1
end of this Chapter).
3 If the horn doesn’t sound, replace it. I
makes noise, but sounds "sick” , try adjusting
the tone as described below.
Replacement
24.3 Unplug the connector, and hook up an 24.6 The sidestand switch is secured by 4 On D models, remove the lower fairing (a
ohmmeter to the terminals on the switch two screws Chapter 8). On E models, remove the acce
side panel from the upper fairing.
any other gear, the ohmmeter should indicate illustration 23.3a), then unplug the 5 Unbolt the horn bracket from the frame
infinite resistance. connector. Connect the leads of an ohmmeter (see illustration) and detach the electric
5 If the switch doesn’t check out as to the terminals of the switch side of the connectors.
described, replace it. connector (see illustration). With the 6 Unbolt the horn from the bracket and
sidestand in its retracted (up) position, there transfer the bracket to the new horn.
Replacement should be continuity (zero resistance) through 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
6 Unscrew the neutral switch from the case. the switch; with the sidestand down, there Adjustment
7 Wrap the threads of the new switch with should be no continuity (infinite resistance).
Teflon tape or apply a thin coat of RTV sealant 8 Loosen the locknut on the adjustmen
4 If the switch fails either of these tests,
to them. Install the switch in the case and screw (see illustration 25.5). Have an
replace it.
tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s assistant operate the horn. Turn the
Specifications. Replacement adjustment screw in or out until the tone Is
5 Unplug the switch electrical connector, if satisfactory. Tighten the locknut.
you haven't already done so (see Steps 1, 2
24 Sidestand switch -
check and replacement
% and 3).
6 Remove the two Phillips head retaining 26 Starter relay -
screws (see illustration) and remove the check and replacement
switch.
7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
*
Check
1 Mark the position of the shift lever to the Check
shift lever shaft (see Chapter 7, Section 15).
Remove the shift lever pinch bolt and slide the
25 Horn - check, replacement
and adjustment
% 1 Remove the left side cover (see Chapter 81
Disconnect the cable from the negative
lever off the shaft. terminal of the battery.
2 Remove the bolts securing the engine 2 Disconnect the battery positive cable and
sprocket cover to the engine case (see the starter wire from the terminals on the
Chapter 8, Section 15). Slide the sprocket Check starter relay (see illustration).
cover off. 1 On D models, remove the lower fairing (see Caution: Don’t let the battery positive
3 Follow the wiring harness from the Chapter 8) the horns are mounted on brackets cable make contact with anything, as it
sidestand switch to the connector (see at the lower corners of the radiator. On E would be a direct short to ground.

25.5 Unplug the connectors (1) and remove the mounting bolts
(2 and 3) 26.2 To remove the starter relay, remove the terminal nuts
The small screw (4) is for adjusting the horn’s tone (lower arrows) and unplug the connector (upper arrow)
Electrical system 9*17

BK/Y

Y/R
26.3Attach an ohmmeter to the battery and starter terminals, then hook up a battery to 27.3 Slide back the boot and disconnect
the control terminals the cable (left arrow), then remove the
mounting bolts (arrows)
IConnect the leads of an ohmmeter to the the junction box, the starter lockout slide the starter toward the right side of the
terminals of the starter relay (see illustration). switch, starter switch (button), engine engine case, then lift it out once it’s
Hook up a jumper cable between the negative stop switch and ignition switch. disengaged from the starter ring gear.
terminal of a 12-volt battery and the 6 Check the condition of the O-ring on the
Back/yellow wire terminal on the starter relay
R eplacem ent end of the starter (see illustration) and
asshown. Hook up another jumper cable to 6 Disconnect the cable from the negative replace it if necessary.
thepositive terminal of the 12-volt battery. terminal of the battery.
7 Detach the battery positive cable, the Installation
i hen you touch this cable to the yellow/red
reterminal as shown, the relay should click
id the ohmmeter should indicate zero
starter cable and tw o-w ire electrical
connector from the relay (see
7 Remove any corrosion or dirt from the
mounting lugs on the starter and the mounting
sistance (0 ohms). When the cable is illustration 26.2). points on the crankcase.
sconnected from the yellow/red wire 8 To disengage the relay from its two plastic 8 Apply a little engine oil to the O-ring.
rminal, the ohmmeter should indicate infinite mounting tabs on the front section of the rear Installation is otherwise the reverse of
sistance. fender, simply lift it straight up. removal.
4If the relay clicks but the ohmmeter doesn’t 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Indicate zero ohms, replace the relay. Reconnect the negative battery cable after all
the other electrical connections are made. 28 Starter motor - disassembly, ^
5Ifthe relay doesn’t click, it may be defective
or there may be a problem in the starter
inspection and reassembly
circuit. To determine which, disconnect the
27 Starter motor -
'electrical connector from the relay and
loonnect a voltmeter or 12-volt test lamp
removal and installation 1 Remove the starter motor (see Section 27).
between the terminals of the black/yellow and Disassembly
yellow/red wires in the wiring harness. Press
■liestarter button again - the voltmeter should 2 Mark the relationship of both end covers to
Rem oval the armature housing. Remove the two long
Indicate approximately 12 volts or the test
ampshould light. 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative screws and detach both end covers (see
() If the voltmeter indicates 12 volts or the terminal of the battery. illustration). Make sure you don’t damage the
test lamp lights, the circuit is good. 2 Remove the fuel tank and the carburetors brushes when disengaging the armature from
Replace the relay. (see Chapter 4). the rear end cover. The brush plate must
[ij If the voltmeter indicates no voltage or the 3 Remove the nut retaining the starter wire to remain with the rear end cover when the cover
test lamp stays out, check all wiring the starter (see illustration). is being separated from the armature (the
connections in the starter circuit (refer to 4 Remove the starter mounting bolts (see electrical lead for one of the brushes is
the Wiring diagrams at the end o f this illustration 27.3). attached to the terminal bolt in the end cover)
book). Also test the starter circuit relay in 5 Lift the inner end of the starter up a little bit, (see illustration). However, the brushes are

27.6 Inspect this O-ring on the starter; if 28.2a Mark the relationship of the end 28.2b Carefully separate the rear end
it’s cracked or torn, replace it covers to the armature housing cover and the armature housing
9*18 Electrical system

28.4 Remove the brush plate from the end cover 28.5 Remove the nut from the terminal bolt and push the bolt
through the end cover

spring-loaded, and push against the 3 Pull the armature out of the housing, toward can be cleaned and polished with croci
comm utator, so one of the brushes might the pinion gear side. cloth, but do not use sandpaper or emei
become “ cocked” in its holder as you’re 4 Lift the brush plate off the rear end cover paper. After cleaning, wipe away any residi
separating the armature from the end cover. If (see illustration). with a cloth soaked in an electrical systei
this happens, using force to pull out the 5 Remove the nut from the terminal bolt, cleaner or denatured alcohol. Measure ti
armature can damage a brush or its wire. So if push the terminal bolt through the end cover com m utator diameter (see illustration) ai
you feel any resistance, stop and look at and remove the bolt and positive brush compare it to the diameter listed in
w hat’s catching; don’t just try to pull the assembly (see illustration). Chapter’s Specifications. If it is less than tl
armature, rear end cover and brush plate service limit, the motor must be replaced wil
apart by force! Inspection a new one.
6 The parts of the starter motor that will most 8 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity ti
likely require attention are the brushes. light, check for continuity between tl
Measure the length of the brushes and commutator bars (see illustration). Continuil
compare the results to the brush length listed should exist between each bar and all of the
in this Chapter’s Specifications (see others. Also, check for continuity between tl
illustration). If either of the brushes is worn commutator bars and the armature shaft
beyond the specified limits, replace the brush illustration). There should be no continuity
plate and terminal bolt (remember: one brush is between the commutator and the shaft
attached to the brush plate and the other brush checks indicate otherwise, the armature
is attached to the terminal bolt; however, both defective.
brushes must be replaced even if only one 9 Using the 1-ohm scale of your ohmrrn
brush is excessively worn). If the brushes are check for continuity between the brush pli
not worn excessively, cracked, chipped, or and the negative brush (see illustration),
otherwise damaged, they may be re-used. negative brush is the one attached to
7 Inspect the com m utator for scoring, brush plate.) The meter should indicate ciose
28.6 Measure the length of the brushes scratches and discoloration. The commutator to zero resistance (0 ohms). If it doesn’t,

28.7 Check the commutator for cracks 28.8a There should be continuity between 28.8b There should be no continuity
and discoloring, then measure its diameter the commutator bars between the commutator bars and the
armature shaft
Electrical system 9*19

28,9 There should be virtually no resistance between the negative 28.10 There should be no continuity between the brush plate
brush and the brush plate holders and the brush plate

positive brush plate has an open and must be the terminal bolt in the correct sequence (see force anything or you could easily damage
replaced. Now check for continuity between illustration). Tighten the terminal nut one or both of the brushes. Slip the washer
the positive brush and the terminal bolt. securely. over the end of the comm utator shaft (see
Again, the meter should indicate near zero 13 Position the brush plate next to the rear illustration) and insert the shaft into its
resistance. If either reading indicates higher end cover and insert the positive brush into its bushing in the rear end cover (see
resistance, the brush lead has an open. holder, then carefully (very carefully!) push the illustration).
Replace the brush plate and terminal bolt brushes into their holders with the side of the 14 Slide the housing over the armature.
assemblies. com m utator and work the com m utator 15 Install the pinion end cover, align the
10 Using the highest range on the ohmmeter, through the brush plate as shown (see previously applied matchmarks, install the two
measure the resistance between the brush illustration). Make sure you don’t long screws and tighten them securely.
holders and the brush plate (see illustration),
hen measure the resistance between the
terminal boit and the negative brush holder,
between the terminal bolt and the end cover,
and between the terminal bolt and the brush
plate. All four readings should indicate infinite
(resistance. If any of these readings indicates
lessthan infinite resistance, replace the brush
plate and/or the terminal bolt.
11 Check the starter pinion gear for worn,
cracked, chipped and broken teeth. If the gear
s damaged or worn, replace the starter
motor.

Reassembly
12 Install the positive brush/terminal bolt 28.12a Install the terminal bolt in the rear 28.12b Install the O-ring first, then the
assembly (see illustration); make sure the end cover insulator, then the nut
O-ring, insulator and washer are installed on

28.13a Push the brushes into their holders 28.13b Don’t forget to install this washer 28.13c Make sure the notch in the brush
with the commutator while sliding it on the commutator shaft before inserting plate is aligned with the notch in the
through the plate the shaft armature housing
9*20 Electrical system

28.16 Remove these bolts (arrows) and remove this cover from 28.17 Remove the starter motor idler gear and bushing and
the left side of the engine inspect both for excessive wear

Starter clutch check and damage to electrical system components r


replacement 29 Charging system testing - result if short circuits occur. Because of t(*
16 Remove the alternator cover (see general information and special tools and expertise required, iti
illustration). It’s not necessary to unplug the precautions recommended that the job of checking I
electrical connector for the alternator stator charging system be left to a dealer service
coil, but don’t hang the alternator cover by 1 If the performance of the charging system department or a reputable motorcycle rep
these three wires or you will damage the (see illustration) is suspect, the system as a shop.
charging system. whole should be checked first, followed by
17 Remove the starter idler gear and bushing testing of the individual components (the
alternator and the voltage regulator/rectifier).
30 Charging system -
(see illustration). Inspect the bushing and the
Note: Before beginning the checks, make sure output test
gear teeth on the idler gear. If either part is
excessively worn, replace it. the battery is fully charged and that all system
18 Turn the starter clutch gear by hand (see connections are clean and tight.
illustration). The starter clutch gear should 2 Checking the output of the charging system Caution: Never disconnect the battery
turn clockwise freely, but should not turn and the performance of the various cables from the battery while the engineIs
counterclockwise. components within the charging system running. If the battery is disconnected, the
19 If the starter clutch doesn’t operate as requires the use of special electrical test alternator and regulator/rectifier will be
described, or if it’s noisy, replace the one-way equipment. A voltmeter and ammeter or a damaged.
clutch assembly. Remove the alternator rotor multimeter are the absolute minimum tools 1 To check the charging system output,
(see Section 32) and unbolt the one-way required. In addition, an ohmmeter is will need a voltmeter or a multimeter with!
clutch from the backside of the rotor (see generally required for checking the remainder voltmeter function.
illustration). Inspect the teeth on the starter of the system. 2 The battery must be fully charged (charge
ring gear; if they’re excessively worn, replace 3 When making the checks, follow the from an external source if necessary) and the
the starter ring gear. procedures carefully to prevent incorrect engine must be at normal operatin
20 Installation is the reverse of removal. connections or short circuits, as irreparable temperature to obtain an accurate reading

28.19 An exploded view of the starter clutch assembly


1 Starter motor idler gear 5 One-way clutch bolt (3)
2 Idler gear bushing 6 One-way clutch
28.18 Check the starter clutch won’t turn in a counterclockwise 3 Starter clutch ring gear 7 Spring assembly (3)
direction, but freewheels clockwise 4 Thrust washer 8 Roller (3)
Electrical system 9*21

29.1 The charging system circuit


1 Alternator 4 Rectifier/regulator connector 7 Starter relay 10 Ignition switch
2 Stator coil connector 5 Rectifier 8 Main (30A) fuse 11 Load
3 Regulator/rectifier 6 Regulator 9 Battery

3Attach the positive (red) voltmeter lead to water pump and up to the three-term inal 2 Remove the lower fairing.
the positive (+) battery terminal and the connector above the transmission area, near 3 Remove the alternator cover (see
negative (black) lead to the battery negative (-) the left side of the frame. This is the electrical illustration 28.16). Trace the three black
terminal, the voltmeter selector switch (if so connector for the stator coil (the three wires wires from the alternator/starter clutch cover,
equipped) must be in a DC volt range greater on the main wiring harness side of this behind the water pump and up to the three-
than 15 volts. connector should all be yellow - if they’re not, terminal connector above the transmission
4 Start the engine. you've got the wrong connector!). area, near the left side of the frame. This is the
5The charging system output should be 14.5 3 Unplug the stator coil electrical connector. electrical connector for the stator coil (the
+0.5 volts at 4000 or more rpm. 4 Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity three wires on the main wiring harness side of
6 If the output is as specified, the alternator is between each of the wires coming from the this connector should all be yellow - if they’re
functioning properly. If the charging system as stator coil. Continuity should exist between not, you’ve got the wrong connector!). Unplug
awhole is not performing as it should, refer to any one wire and each of the others this connector. Remove the Allen bolt and
Section 33 and check the voltage (Kawasaki actually specifies a resistance of wiring harness clamp from inside the
I regulator/rectifier. 0.2 to 0.6 ohms, but the stator coil resistance alternator cover (see illustration). Remove
7 Low voltage output may be the result of of our project bike was 0.7 ohms, and it was the three Allen bolts which attach the stator to
imaged windings in the alternator stator working fine, so take this specification with a the alternator cover and remove the stator.
coils, loss of magnetism in the alternator rotor, grain of salt!). 4 Prevent the alternator rotor from turning by
defective regulator/rectifier or wiring 5 Check for continuity between each of the holding it with Kawasaki tool no. 57001-1313
oblems. Make sure all electrical wires and the engine. No continuity should
nections are clean and tight, then refer to exist between any of the wires and the case.
;tion 31 and check the alternator stator coil 6 If there is no continuity between any two of
windings and leads for continuity. the wires, or if there is continuity between the
wires and an engine ground, an open circuit
or a short exists within the stator coils.
31 Alternator stator coil
continuity test
% Replace the stator coil (see Section 32).

11f charging system output is low or non­


32 Alternator -
removal and installation
%
existent, the alternator stator coil windings
leads should be checked for proper
continuity. The test can be made with the
stator in place on the machine. Rem oval 32.3 Remove the Allen bolts (arrows), the
2 Trace the three black wires from the 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative clamp retaining bolt (arrow) and the
alternator/starter clutch cover, behind the terminal of the battery. harness clamp
9*22 Electrical system

or a similar tool. Remove the rotor bolt (see


illustration).
5 Hold the rotor from turning again, and using
Kawasaki tool nos. 57001-1216 and 57001-
1223, or an equivalent tool, remove the rotor
from the crankshaft (see illustration).

Installation
6 Clean the tapered end of the crankshaft,
the alternator rotor bolt, the threads in the
crankshaft and the tapered portion of the rotor
(see illustration) with an oil-less cleaning
solvent such as acetone or brake system
cleaner.
32.4 You’ll need a flywheel holder (A) to 32.5 You’ll need a rotor puller (A) ;
7 Install the rotor, washer and bolt. Make sure
remove the bolt (C) from the alternator flywheel puller (B) to remove the altema
the chamfer on the washer faces out. Prevent
rotor (B) rotor
the rotor from turning using the method
described in Step 4, and tighten the rotor bolt
to the torque listed in this C hapter’s
Specifications.
8 Place the stator coil in position on the
inside of the alternator cover, install the bolts
and tighten them to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Route the wiring 7 Tapered end of
harness just as it was before and install the crankshaft
wiring harness clamp. Tighten the clamp bolt 2 Threaded portion of
securely. Apply silicone sealant to the rubber rotor bolt and hole in
grommet for the stator coil leads and push the crankshaft
grommet into its slot in the alternator cover. 3 Tapered portion o f rotor
Apply silicone sealant to the “split-line” for the 4 Note that the chamfered
crankcase halves, make sure the starter side o f the washer faces
clutch idler gear and bushing are still properly out
positioned (see Section 28), then install the
alternator cover and tighten the cover bolts to
the torque listed in this C hapter’s
Specifications. Route the stator coil wiring
behind the water pump, then plug it into the
main wiring harness electrical connector. 32.6 Before installing the alternator rotor, clean the indicated areas with an oil-
9 Install the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). solvent
10 Connect the cable to the negative terminal
of the battery. 2 Remove the two bolts securing the accompanying table (see illustrations).
regulator/rectifier to its bracket (see meter readings are not as specified, repla
illustrations), then unplug the electrical the regulator/rectifier.
33 Voltage rectifier/regulator -
connector.
check and replacement ^ R egulator check
R ectifier check 4 Hook up a 12-volt battery and test light as
3 Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance shown, with a terminal for one of the;
1 Remove the seat and the right side cover (D across the term inals indicated in the leads connected to the positive terminal pf the
models) or the left side cover (E models) (see
Chapter 8).

33.2 Simply remove these two bolts 33.3a Terminal guide for the rectifier tests
(arrows) and unplug the electrical 7 White lead 3 Black/yellow lead 5 Yellow 2 lead
connector 2 Brown lead 4 Yellow 1 lead 6 Yellow 3 lead
Electrical system 9*23

Connections Meter
No Meter (+) to Meter ( - ) to Reading Range
1 Yi

2 Y2 w 00
3 Y3
4 Yi

5 Y2 BK/Y x 1 0Q
6 Y3 1/2 scale or
7 Yi x 100 Q
8 w Y2

9 Y3
10 Yi

11 BK/Y Y2 00
12 Y3

33.3b Continuity table for testing the 33.4 Connect one of the yellow lead terminals to the positive terminal of a 12-volt battery
rectifier and a test light in series between the terminal for the black/yellow wire and the negative
battery terminal.

battery, and a test light in series between the terminal for the black/yellow lead to the checked by a dealer service department or
terminal for the black/yellow wire and the battery negative terminal. This applies 24 volts other repair shop (or substitute a known good
negative battery terminal (see illustration). to the regulator and the bulb should now rectifier/regulator unit and recheck the
Thebulb should NOT come on yet. come on and stay on, briefly, until the bulb charging system).
Caution: Do NOT use an ammeter instead circuit is opened.
ofa test light! The test light in this testing 7 Repeat this entire test (Steps 4, 5 and 6) at
circuit functions as an indicator and as a the terminals for the other two yellow leads. 34 Wiring diagrams
current limiter to protect the 8 If the bulb doesn’t light as described during
regulator/rectifier from excessive current. the third step for all three yellow leads, the
5 Now hook up a second 12-volt battery by regulator is defective. Replace the
connecting the terminal for the brown lead to rectifier/regulator unit. Prior to troubleshooting a circuit, check the
the positive battery terminal and the terminal 9 These checks, combined with the charging fuses to make sure they’re in good condition.
lor the black/yellow lead to the negative system output test described in Section 30 Make sure the battery is fully charged and
battery terminal (see illustration). The bulb and the alternator stator coil test outlined in check the cable connections.
should still not come on. Section 31, should diagnose most charging When checking a circuit, make sure all
6Connect a third 12-volt battery in series to system problems. If the voltage connectors are clean, with no broken or loose
the second battery (see illustration) and regulator/rectifier passes the tests described terminals or wires. When unplugging a
BRIEFLY connect the terminal for the brown above, and the stator coil passes the test in connector, don’t pull on the wires - pull only
lead to the battery positive terminal and the Section 31, have the charging system on the connector housings themselves.

33.5 Hook up a second 12-volt battery by connecting the terminal 33.6 Connect a third 12-volt battery in series to the second
for the brown lead to the positive battery terminal and the battery and briefly connect the brown lead terminal to the battery
terminal for the black/yellow lead to the negative battery terminal positive and the black/yellow lead terminal to the
battery negative
9*24 Electrical system
Electrical system 9*25
9*26 Electrical system
Ignition switch
Electrical system
E1 and E2 models (UK)

9*27
9*28 Electrical system
Electrical system
Horn
E6-on

E3 models onward (UK)

9*29
Reference ref.i
Dimensions and W e ig h ts ..................................... REF*1 S torage................................................................ REF«26
Tools and Workshop Tips ................................... REF»2 Fault Finding........................................................ REF«28
[Conversion Factors ............................................REF*20 Fault Finding Equipment ................................... REF*36
’Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants.............. REF*21 Technical Terms Explained ............................... REF*40
MOTTest Checks................................................REF«22 In de x.................................................................... REF*44

Dimensions and Weights

Wheelbase

Length

Wheelbase
|D models............... 1440 mm (56.74 inches)
BEm odels............... 1430 mm (56.34 inches)

Overall le n g th
i models............... 2075 mm (81.76 inches)
IE m odels............... 2070 mm (81.56 inches)

Overall w id th
Dmodels............... 700 mm (27.58 inches)
Em odels............... 695 mm (27.38 inches)

Overall h e ig h t
to models............... 1170 mm (46.10 inches)
fem odels............... 1175 mm (46.30 inches)

Seat h e ig h t
fei m o d e ls ............. 780 mm (30.73 inches)

Dry w e ig h t
California models 195.5 kg (430.1 pounds)
Pother models . 195 kg (429 pounds)
ref.2 Tools and Workshop Tips
For more information about tools, refer to
Buying tools Warning: To avoid the risk of a
A toolkit is a fundamental requirement for
servicing and repairing a motorcycle. Although
there will be an initial expense in building up
A poor quality tool breaking in use,
causing injury or damage to the
component being worked on,
the Haynes Motorcycle Workshop Practice
TechBook (Bk. No. 3470).

Manufacturer’s service tools


enough tools for servicing, this will soon be always aim to purchase tools which meet
Inevitably certain tasks require the use of a
offset by the savings made by doing the job the relevant national safety standards.
service tool. Where possible an alternative
yourself. As experience and confidence grow, tool or method of approach is recommended,
additional tools can be added to enable the The following lists of tools do not represent but sometimes there is no option if personal
repair and overhaul of the motorcycle. Many of the manufacturer’s service tools, but serve as injury or damage to the component is to be
the specialist tools are expensive and not often a guide to help the owner decide which tools avoided. Where required, service tools are
used so it may be preferable to hire them, or for are needed for this level of work. In addition, referred to in the relevant procedure.
a group of friends or motorcycle club to join in items such as an electric drill, hacksaw, files, Service tools can usually only be purchased
the purchase. soldering iron and a workbench equipped from a motorcycle dealer and are identified by
As a rule, it is better to buy more expensive, with a vice, may be needed. Although not a part number. Some of the commonly-used
good quality tools. Cheaper tools are likely to classed as tools, a selection of bolts, screws, tools, such as rotor pullers, are available in
wear out faster and need to be renewed more nuts, washers and pieces of tubing always aftermarket form from mail-order motorcycle
often, nullifying the original saving. come in useful. tool and accessory suppliers.

Maintenance and minor repair tools

1 Set of flat-bladed 6 Set of Torx keys or bits 11 Cable oiler clamp 16 Calibrated syringe, 21 Straight-edge and
screwdrivers 7 Pliers, cutters and 12 Feeler gauges measuring vessel and steel rule
2 Set o f Phillips head self-locking grips 13 Spark plug gap funnel 22 Continuity tester
screwdrivers (Mole grips) measuring tool 17 Oil filter adapters 23 Battery charger
3 Combination open-end 8 Adjustable spanners 14 Spark plug spanner or 18 Oil drainer can or 24 Hydrometer (for battery
and ring spanners 9 C-spanners deep plug sockets tray specific gravity check)
4 Socket set (3/8 inch 10 Tread depth gauge and 15 Wire brush and 19 Pump type oil can 25 Anti-freeze tester (for
or 1/2 inch drive) tyre pressure gauge emery paper 20 Grease gun liquid-cooled engines)
5 Sef of Allen keys or bits
Tools and Workshop Tips ref-3
Repair and overhaul tools

1 Torque wrench 4 Vernier gauge 7 Selection of pullers 10 Wire stripper and 13 Hose clamp
(small and mid-ranges) 5 Circlip pliers (internal and 8 Breaker bars crimper tool (wingnut type shown)
2 Conventional, plastic or external, or combination) 9 Chain breaking/ 11 Multimeter (measures 14 Clutch holding tool
soft-faced hammers 6 Set o f cold chisels riveting tool set amps, volts and ohms) 15 One-man brake/clutch
3 Impact driver set and punches 12 Stroboscope (for bleeder kit
dynamic timing checks)

Specialist tools

'1 Micrometers 4 Cylinder 1 Plastigauge kit 10 Piston ring removal and 13 Stud extractor
(external type) compression gauge 8 Valve spring compressor installation tool 14 Screw extractor set
2 Telescoping gauges 5 Vacuum gauges (left) or (4-stroke engines) 11 Piston ring clamp 15 Bearing driver set
3 Dial gauge manometer (right) 9 Piston pin drawbolt tool 12 Cylinder bore hone
6 Oil pressure gauge (stone type shown)
ref.4 Tools and Workshop Tips
• Use proprietary engine degreasers or
1 Workshop equipment and solvents which have a high flash-point, such
facilities as paraffin (kerosene), for cleaning off oil,
grease and dirt - never use petrol (gasoline) for
cleaning. Wear rubber gloves when handling
solvent and engine degreaser. The fumes from
The workbench certain solvents can be dangerous - always
• Work is made much easier by raising the work in a well-ventilated area.
bike up on a ramp - components are much
more accessible if raised to waist level. The Dust, eye and hand protection
hydraulic or pneumatic types seen in the
dealer’s workshop are a sound investment if • P rotect your lungs from inhalation ol
you undertake a lot of repairs or overhauls 1.3 This auxiliary stand attaches to the dust particles by wearing a filtering mask
(see illustration 1.1). swingarm pivot over the nose and mouth. Many frictional
m aterials still contain asbestos which is
dangerous to your health. Protect your eyes
from spouts of liquid and sprung
components by wearing a pair of protective
goggles (see illustration 1.6).
r:;,:

1.4 Always use a block of wood between


the engine and jack head when supporting
1.1 Hydraulic motorcycle ramp the engine in this way

• If raised off ground level, the bike must be Fumes and fire
supported on the ramp to avoid it falling. Most
• Refer to the Safety first! page at the
ramps incorporate a front wheel locating
beginning of the manual for full details. Make 1.6 A fire extinguisher, goggles, mask
clamp which can be adjusted to suit different
sure your workshop is equipped with a fire and protective gloves should be at hand
diameter wheels. When tightening the clamp,
extinguisher suitable for fuel-related fires in the workshop
take care not to mark the wheel rim or
(Class B fire - flammable liquids) - it is not
damage the tyre - use wood blocks on each
sufficient to have a water-filled extinguisher. • Protect your hands from contact with
side to prevent this.
• Always ensure adequate ventilation is solvents, fuel and oils by wearing rubber
• Secure the bike to the ramp using tie­
available. Unless an exhaust gas extraction gloves. Alternatively apply a barrier cream to
downs (see illustration 1.2). If the bike has
system is available for use, ensure that the your hands before starting work. If handling
only a sidestand, and hence leans at a
engine is run outside of the workshop. hot components or fluids, wear suitable
dangerous angle when raised, support the
• If working on the fuel system, make sure gloves to protect your hands from scalding
bike on an auxiliary stand.
the workshop is ventilated to avoid a build-up and burns. 1
of fumes. This applies equally to fume build­
up when charging a battery. Do not smoke or
allow anyone else to smoke in the workshop. What to do with old fluids
• Old cleaning solvent, fuel, coolant and oils
Fluids
should not be poured down domestic drains
• If you need to drain fuel from the tank, or onto the ground. Package the fluid up in old
store it in an approved container marked as oil containers, label it accordingly, and take it
suitable for the storage of petrol (gasoline) to a garage or disposal facility. Contact your
(see illustration 1.5). Do not store fuel in local authority for location of such sites or ring
glass jars or bottles. the oil care hotline.

Note: It is
antisocial and
1.2 Tie-downs are used around the illegal to dump oil
passenger footrests to secure the bike down the drain.
• Auxiliary (paddock) stands are widely To find the
available from mail order companies or location of your
m otorcycle dealers and attach either to the local oil recycling
wheel axle or swingarm pivot (see illustration bank, call this
1.3). If the motorcycle has a centrestand, you 0800 66 33 66 number free.
can support it under the crankcase to prevent
it toppling whilst either wheel is removed (see In the USA, note that any oil supplier
illustration 1.4). 1.5 Use an approved can only for storing must accept used oil for recycling.
petrol (gasoline)
Tools and Workshop Tips ref-s
• Self-locking nuts either have a nylon
2 Fasteners -
screws, bolts and nuts
B R1fim
insert, or two spring metal tabs, or a shoulder
which is staked into a groove in the shaft -
i! , ' \ • - ; -v # . '/

I w their advantage over conventional plain nuts


is a resistance to loosening due to vibration.
The nylon insert type can be used a number of
Fastener types and applications times, but must be renewed when the friction
Bolts and screws of the nylon insert is reduced, ie when the nut
spins freely on the shaft. The spring tab type
# Fastener head types are either of can be reused unless the tabs are damaged.
hexagonal, Torx or splined design, with The shouldered type must be renewed every
internal and external versions of each type time it is disturbed.
(see illustrations 2.1 and 2.2); splined head • Split pins (cotter pins) are used to lock a
fasteners are not in common use on 2.3 Plain washer (A), penny washer (B), castellated nut to a shaft or to prevent slackening
motorcycles. The conventional slotted or spring washer (C) and serrated washer (D) of a plain nut. Common applications are wheel
Phillips head design is used for certain axles and brake torque arms. Because the split
screws. Bolt or screw length is always • The split-ring spring washer works by
pin arms are deformed to lock around the nut a
measured from the underside of the head to applying axial tension between the fastener
new split pin must always be used on installation
the end of the item (see illustration 2.11). head and component. If flattened, it is
- always fit the correct size split pin which will fit
fatigued and must be renewed. If a plain (flat)
snugly in the shaft hole. Make sure the split pin
washer is used on the fastener, position the
arms are correctly located around the nut (see
spring washer between the fastener and the
illustrations 2.5 and 2.6).
plain washer.
• Serrated star type washers dig into the
fastener and com ponent faces, preventing
loosening. They are often used on electrical
earth (ground) connections to the frame.
• Cone type washers (sometimes called
Belleville) are conical and when tightened
apply axial tension between the fastener head
and component. They must be installed with
the dished side against the component and
often carry an OUTSIDE marking on their
2.1 Internal hexagon/Allen (A), Torx (B) outer face. If flattened, they are fatigued and
and splined (C) fasteners, with must be renewed.
corresponding bits • Tab washers are used to lock plain nuts or
bolts on a shaft. A portion of the tab washer is 2.5 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms
bent up hard against one flat of the nut or bolt as shown (arrows) to secure
to prevent it loosening. Due to the tab washer a castellated nut
being deformed in use, a new tab washer
should be used every time it is disturbed.
• Wave washers are used to take up
endfloat on a shaft. They provide light
springing and prevent excessive side-to-side
play of a component. Can be found on rocker
arm shafts.
Nuts and split pins
• Conventional plain nuts are usually six-
sided (see illustration 2.4). They are sized by
2.2 External Torx (A), splined (B) thread diameter and pitch. High tensile nuts
and hexagon (C) fasteners, with carry a number on one end to denote their
corresponding sockets tensile strength.
2.6 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as
I Certain fasteners on the motorcycle have shown to secure a plain nut
atensile marking on their heads, the higher
the marking the stronger the fastener. High Caution: If the castellated nut slots do
tensile fasteners generally carry a 10 or higher not align with the shaft hole a fter
marking. Never replace a high tensile fastener tightening to the torque setting, tighten
with one of a lower tensile strength. the nut until the next slot aligns with the
Washers (see illustration 2.3) hole - never slacken the nut to align its
I Plain washers are used between a fastener
head and a component to prevent damage to
the component or to spread the load when • R-pins (shaped like the letter R), or slip
torque is applied. Plain washers can also be pins as they are sometimes called, are sprung
used as spacers or shims in certain and can be reused if they are otherwise in
assemblies. Copper or aluminium plain good condition. Always install R-pins with
washers are often used as sealing washers on 2.4 Plain nut (A), shouldered locknut (B), their closed end facing forwards (see
drain plugs. nylon insert nut (C) and castellated nut (D) illustration 2.7).
ref.6 Tools and Workshop Tips

2.12 Using a thread gauge


2.7 Correct fitting of R-pin. to measure pitch
Arrow indicates forward direction 2.10 Align circlip opening
with shaft channel AF size Thread diameter x pitch (mm)
Circlips (see illustration 2.8) 8 mm M5 x 0.8
• Circlips can wear due to the thrust of
• Circlips (sometimes called snap-rings) are 8 mm M 6 x 1 .0
com ponents and become loose in their
used to retain components on a shaft or in a 10 mm M 6 x 1 .0
grooves, with the subsequent danger of
housing and have corresponding external or 12 mm M 8 x 1 .2 5
becoming dislodged in operation. For this 14 mm M 10 x1.2 5
internal ears to permit removal. Parallel-sided reason, renewal is advised every time a circlip
(machined) circlips can be installed either way 17 mm M12 x 1.25
is disturbed.
round in their groove, whereas stamped • Wire circlips are commonly used as piston • The threads of most fasteners are of the
circlips (which have a chamfered edge on one pin retaining clips. If a removal tang is right-hand type, ie they are turned clockwise
face) must be installed with the chamfer provided, long-nosed pliers can be used to to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen. The
facing away from the direction of thrust load dislodge them, otherwise careful use of a reverse situation applies to left-hand thread
(see illustration 2.9). small flat-bladed screwdriver is necessary. fasteners, which are turned anti-clockwise to
Wire circlips should be renewed every time tighten and clockwise to loosen. Left-hand
they are disturbed. threads are used where rotation of a
component might loosen a conventional right-
Thread diameter and pitch hand thread fastener.
• Diameter of a male thread (screw, bolt or
stud) is the outside diameter of the threaded Seized fasteners
portion (see illustration 2.11). Most • Corrosion of external fasteners due
m otorcycle manufacturers use the ISO water or reaction between two dissimilar
(International Standards Organisation) metric metals can occur over a period of time. It vi
system expressed in millimetres, eg M6 refers build up sooner in wet conditions or
to a 6 mm diameter thread. Sizing is the same countries where salt is used on the roads
for nuts, except that the thread diameter is during the winter. If a fastener is severe
measured across the valleys of the nut. corroded it is likely that normal methods i
2.8 External stamped circlip (A), internal • Pitch is the distance between the peaks of removal will fail and result in its head being
stamped circlip (B), machined circlip (C) the thread (see illustration 2.11). It is ruined. When you attempt removal,
and wire circlip (D) expressed in millimetres, thus a common bolt fastener thread should be heard to crack free
size may be expressed as 6.0 x 1.0 mm (6 mm and unscrew easily - if it doesn’t, stop!
• Always use circlip pliers to remove and thread diameter and 1 mm pitch). Generally before damaging something.
install circlips; expand or compress them just pitch increases in proportion to thread • A smart tap on the head of the fastener
enough to remove them. After installation, diameter, although there are always exceptions. will often succeed in breaking free corrosio
rotate the circlip in its groove to ensure it is • Thread diameter and pitch are related for which has occurred in the threads (s
securely seated. If installing a circlip on a conventional fastener applications and the illustration 2.13).
splined shaft, always align its opening with a accompanying table can be used as a guide. • An aerosol penetrating fluid (such
shaft channel to ensure the circlip ends are Additionally, the AF (Across Flats), spanner or WD-40) applied the night beforehand may wort
well supported and unlikely to catch (see socket size dimension of the bolt or nut (see its way down into the thread and ease removal
illustration 2.10). illustration 2.11) is linked to thread and pitch Depending on the location, you may be a
specification. Thread pitch can be measured make up a Plasticine well around the fastener
with a thread gauge (see illustration 2.12). head and fill it with penetrating fluid.
THRUST LOAD
------------ ►

THRUST WASHER

SHARP EDGE

CHAMFERED EDGE
2.11 Fastener length (L), thread diameter 2.13 A sharp tap on the head of a fastener
2.9 Correct fitting of a stamped circlip (D), thread pitch (P) and head size (AF) will often break free a corroded thread
Tools and Workshop Tips REF«7

• If you are working on an engine internal


component, corrosion will most likely not be a
problem due to the well lubricated
environment. However, components can be
very tight and an impact driver is a useful tool
Infreeing them (see illustration 2.14).

2.16 Using a hammer and chisel 2.19 When using a screw extractor,
to free a seized fastener first drill a hole in the fastener . . .

Broken fasteners diameter of the fastener and drill to a depth


and damaged heads which will accommodate the extractor. Use
• If the shank of a broken bolt or screw is the largest size extractor possible, but avoid
2.14 Using an impact driver accessible you can grip it with self-locking leaving too small a wall thickness otherwise
to free a fastener grips. The knurled wheel type stud extractor the extractor will merely force the fastener
tool or self-gripping stud puller tool is walls outwards wedging it in the casing
thread.
• Where corrosion has occurred between particularly useful for removing the long studs
which screw into the cylinder mouth surface • If a spiral type extractor is used, thread it
dissimilar metals (eg steel and aluminium
of the crankcase or bolts and screws from anti-clockwise into the fastener. As it is
alloy), the application of heat to the fastener
which the head has broken off (see screwed in, it will grip the fastener and unscrew
head will create a disproportionate expansion
it from the casing (see illustration 2.20).
rate between the two metals and break the illustration 2.17). Studs can also be removed
seizure caused by the corrosion. Whether by locking two nuts together on the threaded
heat can be applied depends on the location end of the stud and using a spanner on the
of the fastener - any surrounding components lower nut (see illustration 2.18).
likely to be damaged must first be removed
|see illustration 2.15). Heat can be applied
using a paint stripper heat gun or clothes iron,
or by immersing the component in boiling
water - wear protective gloves to prevent
scalding or burns to the hands.

2.20 . . . then thread the extractor


anti-clockwise into the fastener

2.17 Using a stud extractor tool to remove • If a taper type extractor is used, tap it into
a broken crankcase stud the fastener so that it is firmly wedged in
place. Unscrew the extractor (anti-clockwise)
to draw the fastener out.

Warning: Stud extractors are


2.15 Using heat to free a seized fastener
A very hard and may break off in
the fastener if care is not taken
- ask an engineer about spark
I As a last resort, it is possible to use a
liammer and cold chisel to work the fastener erosion if this happens.
head unscrewed (see illustration 2.16). This
will damage the fastener, but more • Alternatively, the broken bolt/screw can
portantly extreme care must be taken not to be drilled out and the hole retapped for an
mage the surrounding component. 2.18 Two nuts can be locked together to oversize bolt/screw or a diam ond-section
unscrew a stud from a component thread insert. It is essential that the drilling is
carried out squarely and to the correct depth,
Caution: Remember that the component
• A bolt or screw which has broken off otherwise the casing may be ruined - if in
being secured is generally of more value
below or level with the casing must be doubt, entrust the work to an engineer.
than the bolt, nut or screw - when the
extracted using a screw extractor set. Centre • Bolts and nuts with rounded corners cause
lastener is freed, do not unscrew it with
punch the fastener to centralise the drill bit, the correct size spanner or socket to slip when
force, instead work the fastener back
then drill a hole in the fastener (see force is applied. Of the types of spanner/socket
and forth when resistance is felt to
illustration 2.19). Select a drill bit which is available always use a six-point type rather
I prevent thread damage.
approximately half to three-quarters the than an eight or twelve-point type - better grip
ref.8 Tools and Workshop Tips

2.21 Comparison of surface drive ring


spanner (left) with 12-point type (right) 2.26 To install a thread insert, first drill out
is obtained. Surface drive spanners grip the 2.23 A thread repair tool being used to the original thread . . .
middle of the hex flats, rather than the corners, correct an external thread
and are thus good in cases of damaged heads chasers are available for spark plug hole
(see illustration 2.21). threads. The tool will not cut a new thread, but
• Slotted-head or Phillips-head screws are clean and true the original thread. Make sure
often damaged by the use of the wrong size that you use the correct diameter and pitch
screwdriver. Allen-head and Torx-head tool. Similarly, external threads can be
screws are much less likely to sustain cleaned up with a die or a thread restorer file
damage. If enough of the screw head is (see illustration 2.24).
exposed you can use a hacksaw to cut a slot
in its head and then use a conventional flat-
bladed screwdriver to remove it. Alternatively 2.27 . . . tap a new thread ,
use a hammer and cold chisel to tap the head
of the fastener around to slacken it. Always
replace damaged fasteners with new ones,
preferably Torx or Allen-head type.

2.24 Using a thread restorer file 2.28 . . . fit insert on the installing 1

• It is possible to drill out the old thread and


retap the component to the next thread size.
A dab o f valve grinding compound This will work where there is enough
between the screw head and screw­ surrounding material and a new bolt or screw
driver tip will often give a good grip. can be obtained. Sometimes, however, this is
not possible - such as where the bolt/screw
passes through another com ponent which
Thread repair must also be suitably modified, also in cases
• Threads (particularly those in aluminium where a spark plug or oil drain plug cannot be 2.29 . . . and thread into the component
alloy components) can be damaged by obtained in a larger diameter thread size.
overtightening, being assembled with dirt in • The diamond-section thread insert (often
the threads, or from a component working known by its popular trade name of Heli-Coil) is
loose and vibrating. Eventually the thread will a simple and effective method of renewing the
fail completely, and it will be impossible to thread and retaining the original size. A kit can
tighten the fastener. be purchased which contains the tap, insert
• If a thread is damaged or clogged with old and installing tool (see illustration 2.25). Drill
locking compound it can be renovated with a out the damaged thread with the size drill
thread repair tool (thread chaser) (see specified (see illustration 2.26). Carefully retap
illustrations 2.22 and 2.23); special thread the thread (see illustration 2.27). Install the
2.30 . . . break off the tang when

insert on the installing tool and thread it slo


into place using a light downward
(see illustrations 2.28 and 2.29).
positioned between a 1/4 and 1/2 turn be
the surface withdraw the installing tool and
the break-off tool to press down on the
breaking it off (see illustration 2.30).
• There are epoxy thread repair kits on
market which can rebuild stripped Intern
2.22 A thread repair tool being used to 2.25 Obtain a thread insert kit to suit the threads, although this repair should not be
correct an internal thread thread diameter and pitch required used on high load-bearing components.
Tools and Workshop Tips REF*9

Ihread locking • When measuring a clearance, select a


andsealing compounds gauge which is a light sliding fit between the two
11 Locking compounds are used in locations components. You may need to use two gauges
here the fastener is prone to loosening due together to measure the clearance accurately.
'vibration or on important safety-related
ns which might cause loss of control of the
Micrometers
motorcycle if they fail. It is also used where • A micrometer is a precision tool capable
rportant fasteners cannot be secured by of measuring to 0.01 or 0.001 of a millimetre.
ether means such as lockwashers or split It should always be stored in its case and not
ns. in the general toolbox. It must be kept clean 3.2 Check micrometer calibration
Before applying locking compound, make and never dropped, otherwise its frame or before use
iurethat the threads (internal and external) are measuring anvils could be distorted resulting
in inaccurate readings. the larger types) the scale should read zero
ieanand dry with all old compound removed,
• External micrometers are used for (see illustration 3.2); make sure that the anvils
sleet a compound to suit the component
measuring outside diameters of components (and test piece) are clean first. Any discrepancy
secured - a non-permanent general
and have many more applications than internal can be adjusted by referring to the instructions
Cking and sealing type is suitable for most
micrometers. Micrometers are available in supplied with the tool. Remember that the
Implications, but a high strength type is needed
different size ranges, eg 0 to 25 mm, 25 to micrometer is a precision measuring tool -
rpermanent fixing of studs in castings. Apply
50 mm, and upwards in 25 mm steps; some don’t force the anvils closed, use the ratchet (4)
i or two of the compound to the first few
large micrometers have interchangeable anvils on the end of the micrometer to close it. In this
eads of the fastener, then thread it into place
to allow a range of measurements to be taken. way, a measured force is always applied.
nd tighten to the specified torque. Do not
Generally the largest precision measurement • To use, first make sure that the item being
ply excessive thread locking compound
you are likely to take on a motorcycle is the measured is clean. Place the anvil of the
[Otherwise the thread may be damaged on
piston diameter. micrometer (1) against the item and use the
sequent removal.
• Internal micrometers (or bore micrometers) thimble (2) to bring the spindle (3) lightly into
Certain fasteners are impregnated with a
are used for measuring inside diameters, such contact with the other side of the item (see
| dryfilm type coating of locking compound on
as valve guides and cylinder bores. illustration 3.3). Don’t tighten the thimble
Iheir threads. Always renew this type of
Telescoping gauges and small hole gauges are down because this will damage the micrometer
I fastener if disturbed.
used in conjunction with an external micro­ - instead use the ratchet (4) on the end of the
Anti-seize compounds, such as copper-
meter, whereas the more expensive internal micrometer. The ratchet mechanism applies a
iased greases, can be applied to protect
micrometers have their own measuring device. measured force preventing damage to the
I tads from seizure due to extreme heat and
instrument.
[corrosion. A common instance is spark plug External micrometer • The micrometer is read by referring to the
I inreads and exhaust system fasteners. Note: The conventional analogue type linear scale on the sleeve and the annular scale
instrument is described. Although much easier on the thimble. Read off the sleeve first to
.
Measuring toots and gauges to read, digital micrometers are considerably obtain the base measurement, then add the
more expensive. fine measurement from the thimble to obtain
• Always check the calibration of the the overall reading. The linear scale on the
micrometer before use. With the anvils closed sleeve represents the measuring range of the
(0 to 25 mm type) or set over a test gauge (for micrometer (eg 0 to 25 mm). The annular scale
Feeler gauges
I Feeler gauges (or blades) are used for
measuring small gaps and clearances (see
Illustration 3.1). They can also be used to
measure endfloat (sideplay) of a component
onashaft where access is not possible with a
dial gauge.
I Feeler gauge sets should be treated with
care and not bent or damaged. They are
'itched with their size on one face. Keep them
and very lightly oiled to prevent
build-up.

( draper) ~ S '- ’:
25-50* jWIw

3.1 Feeler gauges are used for measuring 3.3 Micrometer component parts
small gaps and clearances - thickness is 1 Anvil 3 Spindle 5 Frame
marked on one face of gauge 2 Thimble 4 Ratchet 6 Locking lever
ref.10 Tools and Workshop Tips
on the thimble will be in graduations of 0.01
mm (or as marked on the frame) - one full 46.000
revolution of the thimble will move 0.5 mm on
the linear scale. Take the reading where the
datum line on the sleeve intersects the
thim ble’s scale. Always position the eye
directly above the scale otherwise an
inaccurate reading will result.

In the example shown the item measures


2.95 mm (see illustration 3.4):

Linear scale 2.00 mm


Linear scale 0.50 mm
Annular scale 0.45 mm 3.5 Micrometer reading of 46.99 mm on 3.7 Expand the telescoping gauge
Total figure 2.95 mm linear and annular scales . . . in the bore, lock its position..,

3.6 . . . and 0.004 mm on vernier scale

3.4 Micrometer reading of 2.95 mm 3.8 . . . then measure the gauge


with a micrometer

Most micrometers have a locking lever (6) on measure internal diameters of components.
the frame to hold the setting in place, allowing Select a gauge with the correct size range,
the item to be removed from the micrometer. make sure its ends are clean and insert it into
• Some micrometers have a vernier scale the bore. Expand the gauge, then lock its
on their sleeve, providing an even finer position and withdraw it from the bore (see
measurement to be taken, in 0.001 illustration 3.7). Measure across the gauge
increments of a millimetre. Take the sleeve ends with a micrometer (see illustration 3.8).
and thim ble measurement as described • Very small diameter bores (such as valve
above, then check which graduation on the guides) are measured with a small hole gauge.
vernier scale aligns with that of the annular Once adjusted to a slip-fit inside the
scale on the thimble Note: The eye must be component, its position is locked and the
perpendicular to the scale when taking the gauge withdrawn for measurement with a
vernier reading - if necessary rotate the body micrometer (see illustrations 3.9 and 3.10).
o f the micrometer to ensure this. Multiply the 3.9 Expand the small hole gauge
Vernier caliper in the bore, lock its position...
vernier scale figure by 0.001 and add it to the
Note: The conventional linear and dial gauge
base and fine measurement figures.
type instruments are described. Digital types
In the example shown the item measures are easier to read, but are far more expensive.
46.994 mm (see illustrations 3.5 and 3.6): • The vernier caliper does not provide the
precision of a micrometer, but is versatile in
Linear scale (base) 46.000 mm being able to measure internal and external
Linear scale (base) 00.500 mm diameters. Some types also incorporate a
Annular scale (fine) 00.490 mm depth gauge. It is ideal for measuring clutch
Vernier scale 00.004 mm plate friction material and spring free lengths.
Total figure 46.994 mm • To use the conventional linear scale
vernier, slacken off the vernier clamp screws
(1) and set its jaws over (2), or inside (3), the
Internal micrometer item to be measured (see illustration 3.11).
• Internal micrometers are available for Slide the jaw into contact, using the thum b­
measuring bore diameters, but are expensive 3.10 . . . then measure the gauge
wheel (4) for fine movement of the sliding
with a micrometer
and unlikely to be available for home use. It is scale (5) then tighten the clamp screws (1).
suggested that a set of telescoping gauges and Read off the main scale (6) where the zero on lines up exactly with any of the divisions <
small hole gauges, both of which must be used the sliding scale (5) intersects it, taking the the main scale, noting that the divislo
with an external micrometer, will suffice for whole number to the left of the zero; this usually represents 0.02 of a millimetre. Ad
taking internal measurements on a motorcycle. provides the base measurement. View along this fine measurement to the ba
• Telescoping gauges can be used to the sliding scale and select the division which measurement to obtain the total reading.
Tools and Workshop Tips ref. h

Plastigauge
• Plastigauge is a plastic material which can
be compressed between two surfaces to
measure the oil clearance between them. The
width of the compressed Plastigauge is
measured against a calibrated scale to
determine the clearance.
• Common uses of Plastigauge are for
measuring the clearance between crankshaft
journal and main bearing inserts, between
crankshaft journal and big-end bearing
inserts, and between camshaft and bearing
surfaces. The following example describes
big-end oil clearance measurement.
• Handle the Plastigauge material carefully
H -H to prevent distortion. Using a sharp knife, cut
a length which corresponds with the width of

© the bearing being measured and place it


carefully across the journal so that it is parallel
with the shaft (see illustration 3.15). Carefully
3.11 Vernier component parts (linear gauge) install both bearing shells and the connecting
rod. Without rotating the rod on the journal
1 Clamp screws 3 Internal jaws 5 Sliding scale 7 Depth gauge
tighten its bolts or nuts (as applicable) to the
2 External jaws 4 Thumbwheel 6 Main scale
specified torque. The connecting rod and
bearings are then disassembled and the
In the example shown the item measures crushed Plastigauge examined.
Base measurement 55.00 mm
55.92 mm (see illustration 3.12): Fine measurement 00.92 mm
Total figure 55.92 mm

• Some vernier calipers are equipped with a


dial gauge for fine measurement. Before use,
check that the jaws are clean, then close them
fully and check that the dial gauge reads zero.
If necessary adjust the gauge ring accordingly.
Slacken the vernier clamp screw (1) and set its
jaws over (2), or inside (3), the item to be
measured (see illustration 3.13). Slide the
jaws into contact, using the thumbwheel (4) for
fine movement. Read off the main scale (5) 3.15 Plastigauge placed across shaft journal
where the edge of the sliding scale (6)
intersects it, taking the whole number to the • Using the scale provided in the
3.12 Vernier gauge reading of 55.92 mm
left of the zero; this provides the base Plastigauge kit, measure the width of the
measurement. Read off the needle position on material to determine the oil clearance (see
the dial gauge (7) scale to provide the fine illustration 3.16). Always remove all traces of
measurement; each division represents 0.05 of Plastigauge after use using your fingernails.
a millimetre. Add this fine measurement to the
base measurement to obtain the total reading. Caution: Arriving at the correct
In the example shown the item measures clearance demands that the assembly is
55.95 mm (see illustration 3.14): torqued correctly, according to the
settings and sequence (where
Base measurement 55.00 mm applicable) provided by the motorcycle
Fine measurement 00.95 mm manufacturer.
Total figure 55.95 mm

3.13 Vernier component parts (dial gauge)


t Clamp screw 5 Main scale
2 External jaws 6 Sliding scale
3 Internal jaws 7 Dial gauge 3.16 Measuring the width
0 Thumbwheel 3.14 Vernier gauge reading of 55.95 mm of the crushed Plastigauge
ref.12 Tools and Workshop Tips
Dial gauge or DTI maximum gauge reading as the amount of Fault Finding Equipment. The gauge will hold
(Dial Test Indicator) runout in the shaft. Note: The reading the reading until manually released.
obtained w ill be total runout at that p oint -
• A dial gauge can be used to accurately
some manufacturers specify that the runout
measure small amounts of movement. Typical Oil pressure gauge
figure is halved to compare with their specified
uses are measuring shaft runout or shaft
runout limit. • An oil pressure gauge is used for
endfloat (sideplay) and setting piston position
• Endfloat (sideplay) measurement requires measuring engine oil pressure. Most gauges1
for ignition timing on two-strokes. A dial gauge
that the gauge is mounted securely to the come with a set of adapters to fit the thread of
set usually comes with a range of different
surrounding component with its probe the take-off point (see illustration 3.21). If the
probes and adapters and mounting equipment.
touching the end of the shaft. Using hand take-off point specified by the motorcycle
• The gauge needle must point to zero
pressure, push and pull on the shaft noting manufacturer is an external oil pipe union,
when at rest. Rotate the ring around its
the maximum endfloat recorded on the gauge make sure that the specified replacement
periphery to zero the gauge.
(see illustration 3.19). union is used to prevent oil starvation.
• Check that the gauge is capable of reading
the extent of movement in the work. Most
gauges have a small dial set in the face which
records whole millimetres of movement as well
as the fine scale around the face periphery
which is calibrated in 0.01 mm divisions. Read
off the small dial first to obtain the base
measurement, then add the measurement from
the fine scale to obtain the total reading.
In the example shown the gauge reads
1.48 mm (see illustration 3.17):

Base measurement 1.00 mm


Fine measurement 0.48 mm 3.19 Using a dial gauge to measure 3.21 Oil pressure gauge and take-off point
Total figure 1.48 mm shaft endfloat adapter (arrow)

• A dial gauge with suitable adapters can be • Oil pressure is measured with the engine
used to determine piston position BTDC on running (at a specific rpm) and often the
two-stroke engines for the purposes of ignition manufacturer will specify pressure limits fora
timing. The gauge, adapter and suitable length cold and hot engine.
probe are installed in the place of the spark
plug and the gauge zeroed at TDC. If the
Straight-edge and surface plate
piston position is specified as 1.14 mm BTDC, • If checking the gasket face of a
rotate the engine back to 2.00 mm BTDC, then component for warpage, place a steel rule 0 '
slowly forwards to 1.14 mm BTDC. precision straight-edge across the gasket face
and measure any gap between the straight­
Cylinder compression gauges edge and component with feeler gauges (see
• A compression gauge is used for illustration 3.22). Check diagonally across the
measuring cylinder compression. Either the component and between mounting holes (see
3.17 Dial gauge reading of 1.48 mm
rubber-cone type or the threaded adapter illustration 3.23).
type can be used. The latter is preferred to
• If measuring shaft runout, the shaft must ensure a perfect seal against the cylinder
be supported in vee-blocks and the gauge head. A 0 to 300 psi (0 to 20 Bar) type gauge
mounted on a stand perpendicular to the (for petrol/gasoline engines) will be suitable
shaft. Rest the tip of the gauge against the for motorcycles.
centre of the shaft and rotate the shaft slowly • The spark plug is removed and the gauge
whilst watching the gauge reading (see either held hard against the cylinder head (cone
illustration 3.18). Take several measurements type) or the gauge adapter screwed into the
along the length of the shaft and record the cylinder head (threaded type) (see illustration
3.20). Cylinder compression is measured with
the engine turning over, but not running - carry 3.22 Use a straight-edge and feeler
out the compression test as described in gauges to check for warpage

3.18 Using a dial gauge to measure 3.20 Using a rubber-cone type cylinder
shaft runout compression gauge 3.23 Check for warpage in these directions
Tools and Workshop Tips ref.13
• Checking individual components for • Install the bolts/nuts in their correct Loosening sequences
warpage, such as clutch plain (metal) plates, location and secure them lightly. Their threads
• Where more than one bolt/nut secures a
requires a perfectly flat plate or piece or plate must be clean and free of any old locking
component, loosen each fastener evenly a
glass and feeler gauges. compound. Unless specified the threads and
little at a time. In this way, not all the stress of
flange should be dry - oiled threads are
the joint is held by one fastener and the
necessary in certain circumstances and the
components are not likely to distort.
manufacturer will take this into account in the
• If a tightening sequence is provided, work
specified torque figure. Similarly, the
in the REVERSE of this, but if not, work from
manufacturer may also specify the application
the outside in, in a criss-cross sequence (see
of thread-locking compound.
illustration 4.4).
• Tighten the fasteners in the specified
What is torque? sequence until the torque wrench clicks,
• Torque describes the twisting force about indicating that the torque setting has been
a shaft. The amount of torque applied is reached. Apply the torque again to double­
determined by the distance from the centre of check the setting. Where different thread
Dieshaft to the end of the lever and the amount diameter fasteners secure the component, as
of force being applied to the end of the lever; a rule tighten the larger diameter ones first.
[distance multiplied by force equals torque. • When the torque wrench has been
• The manufacturer applies a measured finished with, release the lock (where
torque to a bolt or nut to ensure that it will not applicable) and fully back off its setting to zero
slacken in use and to hold two components - do not leave the torque wrench tensioned.
securely together without movement in the Also, do not use a torque wrench for
joint. The actual torque setting depends on slackening a fastener.
thethread size, bolt or nut material and the
composition of the components being held.
• Too little torque may cause the fastener to Angle-tightening
loosen due to vibration, whereas too much • Manufacturers often specify a figure in
torque will distort the joint faces of the degrees for final tightening of a fastener. This
component or cause the fastener to shear off. usually follows tightening to a specific torque 4.4 When slackening, work from the
Always stick to the specified torque setting. setting. outside inwards
• A degree disc can be set and attached to
Using a torque wrench the socket (see illustration 4.2) or a Tightening sequences
Check the calibration of the torque protractor can be used to mark the angle of
wench'and make sure it has a suitable range • If a component is held by more than one
movement on the bolt/nut head and the
for the job. Torque wrenches are available in fastener it is important that the retaining
surrounding casting (see illustration 4.3).
(Newton-metres), kgf m (kilograms-force bolts/nuts are tightened evenly to prevent
metre), Ibf ft (pounds-feet), Ibf in (inch- uneven stress build-up and distortion of
pounds). Do not confuse Ibf ft with Ibf in. sealing faces. This is especially important on
• Adjust the tool to the desired torque on high-compression joints such as the cylinder
thescale (see illustration 4.1). If your torque head.
wrench is not calibrated in the units specified, • A sequence is usually provided by the
carefully convert the figure (see Conversion manufacturer, either in a diagram or actually
Factors). A manufacturer sometimes gives a marked in the casting. If not, always start in
je setting as a range (8 to 10 Nm) rather the centre and work outwards in a criss-cross
than a single figure - in this case set the tool pattern (see illustration 4.5). Start off by
midway between the two settings. The same securing all bolts/nuts finger-tight, then set
orque may be expressed as 9 Nm ± 1 Nm. the torque wrench and tighten each fastener
Some torque wrenches have a method of by a small amount in sequence until the final
Dcking the setting so that it isn’t inadvertently torque is reached. By following this practice,
altered during use. 4.2 Angle tightening can be accomplished
with a torque-angle gauge . . .

L
4.1 Set the torque wrench index mark to 4.3 . . . or by marking the angle on the 4.5 When tightening, work from the
the setting required, in this case 12 Nm surrounding component inside outwards
ref.14 Tools and Workshop Tips
the joint will be held evenly and will not be • The same equipment can be used to off a gear shaft for example, you may haveto
distorted. Important joints, such as the install bearings. Make sure the bearing locate the puller behind a gear pinion if thereis
cylinder head and big-end fasteners often housing is supported on wood blocks and line no access to the race and draw the gear pinion
have two- or three-stage torque settings. up the bearing in its housing. Fit the bearing off the shaft as well (see illustration 5.4).
as noted on removal - generally they are --------------------------------------------
installed with their marked side facing Caution: Ensure that the puller’s centre
Applying leverage outwards. Tap the bearing squarely into its bolt locates securely against the end oI
• Use tools at the correct angle. Position a housing using a driver or socket which bears the shaft and will not slip when pressure
socket wrench or spanner on the bolt/nut so only on the bearing’s outer race - contact with is applied. Also ensure that puller does
that you pull it towards you when loosening. If the bearing balls/rollers or inner race will not damage the shaft end.
.1 1 1 . .—
this can't be done, push the spanner without destroy it (see illustrations 5.1 and 5.2).
curling your fingers around it (see illustration • Check that the bearing inner race and
4.6) - the spanner may slip or the fastener balls/rollers rotate freely.
loosen suddenly, resulting in your fingers
being crushed against a component.

5.4 Where no access is available to the rear


4.6 If you can’t pull on the spanner to of the bearing, it is sometimes possible to
loosen a fastener, push with your hand open draw off the adjacent component
5.1 Using a bearing driver against the • Operate the puller so that its centre bol
• Additional leverage is gained by extending bearing’s outer race exerts pressure on the shaft end and draw
the length of the lever. The best way to do this
the bearing off the shaft.
is to use a breaker bar instead of the regular
• When installing the bearing on the shaft
length tool, or to slip a length of tubing over
tap only on the bearing’s inner race - conti
the end of the spanner or socket wrench.
with the balls/rollers or outer race with des
• If additional leverage will not work, the
the bearing. Use a socket or length of tubing
fastener head is either damaged or firmly
as a drift which fits over the shaft end I
corroded in place (see Fasteners).
illustration 5.5).

Bearing removal and installation 5.2 Using a large socket against the
Drivers and sockets bearing’s outer race

• Before removing a bearing, always Pullers and slide-hammers


inspect the casing to see which way it must • Where a bearing is pressed on a shaft a
be driven out - some casings will have puller will be required to extract it (see
retaining plates or a cast step. Also check for illustration 5.3). Make sure that the puller
any identifying markings on the bearing and if clamp or legs fit securely behind the bearing
installed to a certain depth, measure this at and are unlikely to slip out. If pulling a bearing
this stage. Some roller bearings are sealed on 5.5 When installing a bearing on a shaft
one side - take note of the original fitted use a piece of tubing which bears onlyon
position. the bearing’s inner race
• Bearings can be driven out of a casing
using a bearing driver tool (with the correct • Where a bearing locates in a blind holein
size head) or a socket of the correct diameter. a casing, it cannot be driven or pulled out c
Select the driver head or socket so that it described above. A slide-hammer with knlf
contacts the outer race of the bearing, not the edged bearing puller attachment
balls/rollers or inner race. Always support the required. The puller attachment pass
casing around the bearing housing with wood through the bearing and when tightened
blocks, otherwise there is a risk of fracture. expands to fit firmly behind the bearing (se
The bearing is driven out with a few blows on illustration 5.6). By operating the slide
the driver or socket from a heavy mallet. hammer part of the tool the bearing is ja
Unless access is severely restricted (as with out of its housing (see illustration 5.7).
wheel bearings), a pin-punch is not 5.3 This bearing puller clamps behind the • It is possible, if the bearing is of reasonable
recommended unless it is moved around the bearing and pressure is applied to the weight, for it to drop out of its housing if the
bearing to keep it square in its housing. shaft end to draw the bearing off casing is heated as described opposite. If til
Tools and Workshop Tips ref .-is

Temperature change
• If the bearing’s outer race is a tight fit in
the casing, the aluminium casing can be
heated to release its grip on the bearing.
Aluminium will expand at a greater rate than
the steel bearing outer race. There are several
ways to do this, but avoid any localised
extreme heat (such as a blow torch) -
aluminium alloy has a low melting point.
• Approved m ethods of heating a casing
are using a domestic oven (heated to 100°C)
or immersing the casing in boiling water (see
5.6 Expand the bearing puller so that it illustration 5.12). Low temperature range
locks behind the bearing . . . 5.9 Drawbolt component parts assembled localised heat sources such as a paint stripper
on a suspension arm
heat gun or clothes iron can also be used (see
1 Bolt or length o f threaded bar illustration 5.13). Alternatively, soak a rag in
2 Nuts boiling water, wring it out and wrap it around
3 Washer (external diameter greater than the bearing housing.
tubing internal diameter)
Warning: All of these methods
4 Tubing (internal diameter sufficient to
accommodate bearing)
5 Suspension arm with bearing
A require care in use to prevent
scalding and burns to the
hands. Wear protective gloves
6 Tubing (external diameter slightly smaller
when handling hot components.
than bearing)
7 Washer (external diameter slightly smaller
than bearing)

5.7 . . . attach the slide hammer to the


bearing puller
method is attempted, first prepare a work
surface which will enable the casing to be
| tapped face down to help dislodge the bearing
a wood surface is ideal since it will not
j damage the casing’s gasket surface. Wearing
protective gloves, tap the heated casing
I several times against the work surface to
5.12 A casing can be immersed in a sink
dislodge the bearing under its own weight (see
of boiling water to aid bearing removal
I lustration 5.8). 5.10 Drawing the bearing out of the
suspension arm
• To extract the bearing/bush you will need
a long bolt with nut (or piece of threaded bar
with two nuts), a piece of tubing which has an
internal diameter larger than the bearing/bush,
another piece of tubing which has an external
diameter slightly smaller than the bearing/
bush, and a selection of washers (see
illustrations 5.9 and 5.10). Note that the
pieces of tubing must be of the same length,
or longer, than the bearing/bush.
• The same kit (without the pieces of tubing)
5.8 Tapping a casing face down on wood can be used to draw the new bearing/bush 5.13 Using a localised heat source
blocks can often dislodge a bearing back into place (see illustration 5.11). to aid bearing removal
Bearings can be installed in blind holes
• If heating the whole casing note that
sing the driver or socket method described
plastic components, such as the neutral
ove.
switch, may suffer - remove them beforehand.
fiDrawbolts • After heating, remove the bearing as
f Where a bearing or bush is set in the eye of described above. You may find that the
icomponent, such as a suspension linkage expansion is sufficient for the bearing to fall
i or connecting rod small-end, removal by out of the casing under its own weight or with
Inft may damage the component. Furthermore, a light tap on the driver or socket.
i rubber bushing in a shock absorber eye • If necessary, the casing can be heated to
nnot successfully be driven out of position. If aid bearing installation, and this is sometimes
iccess is available to a engineering press, the the recommended procedure if the
tskis straightforward. If not, a drawbolt can be 5.11 Installing a new bearing (1) in the m otorcycle manufacturer has designed the
Ifebricated to extract the bearing or bush. suspension arm housing and bearing fit with this intention.
ref.16 Tools and Workshop Tips
• Installation of bearings can be eased by
placing them in a freezer the night before
installation. The steel bearing will contract
slightly, allowing easy insertion in its housing.
This is often useful when installing steering
head outer races in the frame.

Bearing types and markings


• Plain shell bearings, ball bearings, needle
roller bearings and tapered roller bearings will
all be found on motorcycles (see illustrations 5.16 Typical bearing marking 5.18 Example of ball journal bearing with
5.14 and 5.15). The ball and roller types are damaged bails and cages
usually caged between an inner and outer
race, but uncaged variations may be found. Bearing fault finding
• If a bearing outer race has spun in its
housing, the housing material will be
damaged. You can use a bearing locking
compound to bond the outer race in place if
damage is not too severe.
• Shell bearings will fail due to damage of
their working surface, as a result of lack of
lubrication, corrosion or abrasive particles in
the oil (see illustration 5.17). Small particles
of dirt in the oil may embed in the bearing
material whereas larger particles will score the 5.19 Hold outer race and listen to inner
bearing and shaft journal. If a number of short race when spun
journeys are made, insufficient heat will be race with the other hand (see illustration 5.19)
5.14 Shell bearings are either plain or
generated to drive off condensation which has The bearing should be almost silent when
grooved. They are usually identified by
built up on the bearings. spun; if it grates or rattles it is worn.
colour code (arrow)

FATIGUE FAILURE IMPROPER SEATING

CRATERS OR POCKETS
Oil seal removal and installation
• Oil seals should be renewed every time i
SCRATCHED BY DIRT LACK OF OIL component is dismantled. This is because the
5.15 Tapered roller bearing (A), needle seal lips will become set to the sealing isurface
roller bearing (B) and ball journal bearing (C) and will not necessarily reseal.
• Oil seals can be prised out of position
• Shell bearings (often cailed inserts) are using a large flat-bladed screwdriver (see
usually found at the crankshaft main and illustration 6.1). In the case of crankcase
connecting rod big-end where they are good DIRT EM BEDDED INTO seals, check first that the seal is not lipped on |
RE AR IN fi MATERIAL
at coping with high loads. They are made of a the inside, preventing its removal with t'
phosphor-bronze material and are EXCESSIVE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL crankcases joined.
impregnated with self-lubricating properties.
• Ball bearings and needle roller bearings
consist of a steel inner and outer race with the
balls or rollers between the races. They
require constant lubrication by oil or grease
and are good at coping with axial loads. Taper
roller bearings consist of rollers set in a 5.17 Typical bearing failures
tapered cage set on the inner race; the outer
race is separate. They are good at coping with • Ball and roller bearings will fail due to lack
axial loads and prevent movement along the of lubrication or damage to the balls or rollers.
shaft - a typical application is in the steering Tapered-roller bearings can be damaged by
head. overloading them. Unless the bearing is 6.1 Prise out oil seals with a large
• Bearing manufacturers produce bearings sealed on both sides, wash it in paraffin flat-bladed screwdriver
to ISO size standards and stamp one face of (kerosene) to remove all old grease then allow
the bearing to indicate its internal and external it to dry. Make a visual inspection looking to • New seals are usually installed with theif
diameter, load capacity and type (see dented balls or rollers, damaged cages and marked face (containing the seal reference
illustration 5.16). worn or pitted races (see illustration 5.18). code) outwards and the spring side towards
• Metal bushes are usually of phosphor- • A ball bearing can be checked for wear by the fluid being retained. In certain cases, such
bronze material. Rubber bushes are used in listening to it when spun. Apply a film of light oil as a tw o-stroke engine crankshaft seal, a
suspension mounting eyes. Fibre bushes have to the bearing and hold it close to the ear - hold double lipped seal may be used due to there
also been used in suspension pivots. the outer race with one hand and spin the inner being fluid or gas on each side of the joint.
Tools and Workshop Tips ref.17
• Use a bearing driver or socket which impregnated in its surface before applying
bears only on the outer hard edge of the seal additional sealant.
to install it in the casing - tapping on the inner • When choosing a sealant, make sure it is
edge will damage the sealing lip. suitable for the application, particularly if
being applied in a high-temperature area or in
Oil seal types and markings the vicinity of fuel. Certain manufacturers
• Oil seals are usually of the single-lipped produce sealants in either clear, silver or black
type. Double-lipped seals are found where a colours to match the finish of the engine. This
liquid or gas is on both sides of the joint. has a particular application on motorcycles
• Oil seals can harden and lose their sealing where much of the engine is exposed.
ability if the motorcycle has been in storage • Do not over-apply sealant. That which is
fora long period - renewal is the only solution, squeezed out on the outside of the joint can Most components have one or two
t Oil seal manufacturers also conform to be wiped off, whereas an excess of sealant on hollow locating dowels between the
the ISO markings for seal size - these are the inside can break off and clog oilways. two gasket faces. If a dowel cannot be
moulded into the outer face of the seal (see removed, do not resort to gripping it
illustration 6.2). Breaking a sealed joint with pliers - it will almost certainly be
• Age, heat, pressure and the use of hard distorted. Install a close-fitting socket
setting sealant can cause two components to or Phillips screwdriver into the dowel
stick together so tightly that they are difficult to and then grip the outer edge of the
separate using finger pressure alone. Do not dowel to free it.
resort to using levers unless there is a pry point
provided for this purpose (see illustration 7.1)
the sealing faces of the components. It is
or else the gasket surfaces will be damaged. imperative that all traces are removed to
• Use a soft-faced hammer (see illus­ ensure correct sealing of the new gasket.
tration 7.2) or a wood block and conventional • Very carefully scrape all traces of gasket
hammer to strike the component near the away making sure that the sealing surfaces
6.2 These oil seal markings indicate
mating surface. Avoid hammering against cast are not gouged or scored by the scraper (see
inside diameter, outside diameter
extremities since they may break off. If this illustrations 7.3, 7.4 and 7.5). Stubborn
and seal thickness
method fails, try using a wood wedge between deposits can be removed by spraying with an
the two components. aerosol gasket remover. Final preparation of
7 Gaskets and sealants Caution: If the jo in t will not separate,
double-check that you have removed all
the fasteners.
■M
___ l
Types of gasket and sealant
I • Gaskets are used to seal the mating
I surfaces between components and keep
I lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained
I within the assembly. Aluminium gaskets are
I sometimes found at the cylinder joints, but
I most gaskets are paper-based. If the mating 7.3 Paper gaskets can be scraped off with
I surfaces of the components being joined are a gasket scraper to o l. . .
I undamaged the gasket can be installed dry,
I although a dab of sealant or grease will be
I useful to hold it in place during assembly.
7.1 If a pry point is provided, apply gently
I • RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanising)
pressure with a flat-bladed screwdriver
I silicone rubber sealants cure when exposed to
moisture in the atmosphere. These sealants
are good at filling pits or irregular gasket faces,
but will tend to be forced out of the joint under
very high torque. They can be used to replace
a paper gasket, but first make sure that the
width of the paper gasket is not essential to
I the shimming of internal components. RTV
7.4 . . . a knife blade
sealants should not be used on components
containing petrol (gasoline).
I • Non-hardening, semi-hardening and hard
I setting liquid gasket compounds can be used
I with a gasket or between a metal-to-metal
I joint. Select the sealant to suit the application: 7.2 Tap around the joint with a soft-faced
I universal non-hardening sealant can be used mallet if necessary - don’t strike cooling fins
I on virtually all joints; semi-hardening on joint
I faces which are rough or damaged; hard Removal of
I setting sealant on joints which require a old gasket and sealant
I permanent bond and are subjected to high
• Paper gaskets will most likely come away
I temperature and pressure. Note: Check first if
I the paper gasket has a bead o f sealant complete, leaving only a few traces stuck on 75 . . . or a household scraper
ref.18 Tools and Workshop Tips

7.6 Fine abrasive paper is wrapped around 8.1 Tighten the chain breaker to push the
a flat file to clean up the gasket face pin out of the link . . .

8.5 . . . install the O-rings


over the pin ends . . .

7.7 A kitchen scourer can be used on


stubborn deposits 8.2 . . . withdraw the pin, remove the to o l. . .

the gasket surface can be made with very fine


abrasive paper or a plastic kitchen scourer
(see illustrations 7.6 and 7.7).
• Old sealant can be scraped or peeled off
components, depending on the type originally
used. Note that gasket removal compounds
are available to avoid scraping the
components clean; make sure the gasket 8.6 . . . followed by the sideplate
remover suits the type of sealant used.
chain, install a new O-ring over each pin of the
link and insert the link through the two chain
8 Chains ends (see illustration 8.4). Install a new O-ring
over the end of each pin, followed by the
8.3 . . . and separate the chain link sideplate (with the chain manufacturer’s
marking facing outwards) (see illustrations
deeply centre-punched instead of peened over 8.5 and 8.6). On an unsealed chain, insert the
Breaking and joining link through the two chain ends, then install
like all the other pins (see illustration 8.9) and
final drive chains the sideplate with the chain manufacturer’s
its sideplate may be a different colour. Position
• Drive chains for all but small bikes are the soft link midway between the sprockets marking facing outwards.
continuous and do not have a clip-type and assemble the chain breaker tool over one • Note that it may not be possible to install
connecting link. The chain must be broken of the soft link pins (see illustration 8. 1). the sideplate using finger pressure alone. If
using a chain breaker tool and the new chain Operate the tool to push the pin out through using a joining tool, assemble it so that the
securely riveted together using a new soft the chain (see illustration 8.2). On an O-ring plates of the tool clamp the link and press the
rivet-type link. Never use a clip-type chain, remove the O-rings (see illustration sideplate over the pins (see illustration 8.7).
connecting link instead of a rivet-type link, 8.3). Carry out the same procedure on the Otherwise, use two small sockets placed over
except in an emergency. Various chain other soft link pin.
breaking and riveting tools are available, either
as separate tools or combined as illustrated in Caution: Certain soft link pins
the accompanying photographs - read the (particularly oh the larger chains) may
instructions supplied with the tool carefully. require their ends to be filed or ground
off before they can be pressed out using
Warning: The need to rivet the the tool.

A new link pins correctly cannot


be overstressed - loss of control
of the motorcycle is very likely
• Check that you have the correct size and
strength (standard or heavy duty) new soft link
- do not reuse the old link. Look for the size
to result if the chain breaks in use.
marking on the chain sideplates (see
illustration 8. 10).
• Rotate the chain and look for the soft link. • Position the chain ends so that they are 8.7 Push the sideplate into position
The soft link pins look like they have been engaged over the rear sprocket. On an O-ring using a clamp
Tools and Workshop Tips ref.19
c) Two sockets placed each side of the hose
and held with straight-jawed self-locking
grips (see illustration 9.3).
d) Thick card each side of the hose held
between straight-jawed self-locking grips
(see illustration 9.4).

8.11 Chain dimensions

8.8 Assemble the chain riveting tool over Sizes commencing with a 4 (eg 428)
one pin at a time and tighten it fully have a pitch of 1/2 inch (12.7 mm)
Sizes commencing with a 5 (eg 520)
have a pitch of 5/8 inch (15.9 mm)
Sizes commencing with a 6 (eg 630)
have a pitch of 3/4 inch (19.1 mm) 9.3 . . . two sockets and a pair of
• The second and third digits of the chain self-locking grips . . .
size relate to the width of the rollers, again in
imperial units, eg the 525 shown has 5/16 inch
(7.94 mm) rollers (see illustration 8.11).

8.9 Pin end correctly riveted (A), 9 Hoses


pin end unriveted (B)
the rivet ends and tw o pieces of the wood
between a G-clamp. Operate the clam p to
press the sideplate over the pins.
• Assemble the joining tool over one pin Clamping to prevent flow
(following the maker’s instructions) and • Small-bore flexible hoses can be clamped
tighten the tool down to spread the pin end to prevent fluid flow whilst a component is
securely (see illustrations 8.8 and 8.9). Do worked on. Whichever method is used, ensure
the same on the other pin. that the hose material is not permanently 9.4 . . . or thick card and self-locking grips
distorted or damaged by the clamp.
Warning: Check that the pin

A Freeing and fitting hoses


a) A brake hose clamp available from auto
ends are secure and that there accessory shops (see illustration 9.1).
is no danger of the sideplate • Always make sure the hose clamp is
b) A wingnut type hose clamp (see
coming loose. If the pin ends moved well clear of the hose end. Grip the
illustration 9.2).
are cracked the soft link must be hose with your hand and rotate it whilst
renewed. pulling it off the union. If the hose has
hardened due to age and will not move, slit it
with a sharp knife and peel its ends off the
Final drive chain sizing union (see illustration 9.5).
• Chains are sized using a three digit number, • Resist the temptation to use grease or
followed by a suffix to denote the chain type soap on the unions to aid installation; although
(see illustration 8.10). Chain type is either it helps the hose slip over the union it will
standard or heavy duty (thicker sideplates), and equally aid the escape of fluid from the joint. It
also unsealed or O-ring/X-ring type. is preferable to soften the hose ends in hot
# The first digit of the number relates to the 9.1 Hoses can be clamped with an water and wet the inside surface of the hose
pitch of the chain, ie the distance from the automotive brake hose clamp . . . with water or a fluid which will evaporate.
centre of one pin to the centre of the next pin
(see illustration 8.11). Pitch is expressed in
eighths of an inch, as follows:

9.5 Cutting a coolant hose free


8.10 Typical chain size and type marking 9.2 . . . a wingnut type hose clamp . . . with a sharp knife
ref.2o Conversion Factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) X 0.0394 = Inches (in)
Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (nr*) X 3.281 =■ Feet (ft)
Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) X 0.621 = Miles \

Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in3) X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) X 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3)
Imperial pints (Imp pt) X 0.568 = Litres (I) X 1.76 SS.Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.137 = Litres (I) X 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) X 0.833 SS Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres (I) X 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 4.546 = Litres (I) X 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) X 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 = Litres (I) X 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)
Mass (weight)
Ounces (oz) X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb) X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) X 2.205 = Pounds (lb)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz) X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) X 0.225 SS Pounds-force (Ibf; lb)
Newtons (N) X 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) X 9.81 SS Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.070 = Kilogram s-force per square X 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) X 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.069 = Bars X 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch
(ps^tef/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Kilopf|cals (kPa) X 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square X 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)
Millibar (mbar) X 100 = Pascals (Pa) X 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) X 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch X 68.947 - Millibar (mbar)
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Millibar (mbar) X 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) X 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) X 0.401 = Inches of water (inH20) X 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) X 0.535 = Inches of water (inH20) X 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH20) X 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch X 27.68 Inches of water (inH20)
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) =
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force inches X 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre X 0.868 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches X 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) X 8.85 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 12 s Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres X 7.233 3= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) X 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm) X 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres X 9.804 Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg rri) • =
•5;- , ■' ( . .
Power
Horsepower (hp) X 745.7 = Watts (W) X 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon (mpg) X 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) X 2.825 _ Miles per gallon (mpg)
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (1/100km), where mpg x 1/100 km = 282
Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants ref.21
A number of chemicals and variety of additives to prevent corrosion brushed on and, depending on the type,
lubricants are available for use in and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil are rinsed with either water or solvent.
motorcycle maintenance and repair. comes in various weights (viscosity
• Solvents are used alone or in
They include a wide variety of products ratings) of from 5 to 80. The
combination with degreasers to clean
ranging from cleaning solvents and recommended weight of the oil depends
parts and assemblies during repair and
degreasers to lubricants and protective on the seasonal temperature and the
overhaul. The home mechanic should
sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. demands on the engine. Light oil is used
use only solvents that are non-flammable
in cold climates and under light load
• Contact point/spark plug cleaner is and that do not produce irritating fumes.
conditions; heavy oil is used in hot
asolvent used to clean oily film and dirt
climates and where high loads are • Gasket sealing compounds may be
from points, grime from electrical
encountered. M ulti-viscosity oils are used in conjunction with gaskets, to
connectors and oil deposits from spark
designed to have characteristics of both improve their sealing capabilities, or
plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue.
light and heavy oils and are available in a alone, to seal metal-to-metal joints.
It can also be used to remove gum and
number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W- Many gasket sealers can withstand
varnish from carburettor jets and other
50. extreme heat, some are impervious to
.orifices.
petrol and lubricants, while others are
• Carburettor cleaner is similar to • Petrol additives perform several capable of filling and sealing large
Contact point/spark plug cleaner but it functions, depending on their chemical cavities. Depending on the intended use,
usually has a stronger solvent and may makeup. They usually contain solvents gasket sealers either dry hard or stay
leave a slight oily reside. It is not that help dissolve gum and varnish that relatively soft and pliable. They are
recommended for cleaning electrical build up on carburettor and inlet parts. usually applied by hand, with a brush, or
components or connections. They also serve to break down carbon are sprayed on the gasket sealing
deposits that form on the inside surfaces surfaces.
• Brake system cleaner is used to of the combustion chambers. Some
' remove grease or brake fluid from brake additives contain upper cylinder • Thread locking compound is an
system components (where clean lubricants for valves and piston rings. adhesive locking compound that
surfaces are absolutely necessary and prevents threaded fasteners from
petroleum-based solvents cannot be • Brake and clutch fluid is a specially loosening because of vibration. It is
used); it also leaves no residue. formulated hydraulic fluid that can available in a variety of types for different
withstand the heat and pressure applications.
• Silicone-based lubricants are used encountered in brake/clutch systems.
to protect rubber parts such as hoses Care must be taken that this fluid does • Moisture dispersants are usually
and grommets, and are used as not come in contact with painted sprays that can be used to dry out
' lubricants for hinges and locks. surfaces or plastics. An opened electrical components such as the fuse
container should always be resealed to block and wiring connectors. Some
• Multi-purpose grease is an all
prevent contamination by water or dirt. types can also be used as treatment for
[purpose lubricant used wherever grease
rubber and as a lubricant for hinges,
is more practical than a liquid lubricant • Chain lubricants are formulated cables and locks.
such as oil. Some multi-purpose grease especially for use on m otorcycle final
is coloured white and specially drive chains. A good chain lube should • Waxes and polishes are used to
[formulated to be more resistant to water adhere well and have good penetrating help protect painted and plated surfaces
than ordinary grease. from the weather. Different types of paint
qualities to be effective as a lubricant
may require the use of different types of
• Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) inside the chain and on the side plates,
wax polish. Some polishes utilise a
Is a specially designed oil used in pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are
chemical or abrasive cleaner to help
transmissions and final drive units, as either the foaming type or quick drying
remove the top layer of oxidised (dull)
well as other areas where high friction, type and are usually marketed as sprays.
paint on older vehicles. In recent years,
high temperature lubrication is required. Take care to use a lubricant marked as
many non-wax polishes (that contain a
It is available in a number of viscosities being suitable for O-ring chains.
wide variety of chemicals such as
(weights) for various applications.
• Degreasers are heavy duty solvents polymers and silicones) have been
• Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant used to remove grease and grime that introduced. These non-wax polishes are
specially formulated for use in the may accumulate on engine and frame usually easier to apply and last longer
engine. It normally contains a wide components. They can be sprayed or than conventional waxes and polishes.
ref.22 MOT Test Checks

About the MOT Test tester, particularly in view of the equipment Certain exceptions apply to machines
required for some of the checks. However, under 50 cc, machines without a lighting
In the UK, all vehicles more than three years working through the following procedures will system, and Classic bikes - if in doubt about
old are subject to an annual test to ensure that enable you to identify any problem areas any of the requirements listed below seek
they meet minimum safety requirements. A before submitting the motorcycle for the test. confirmation from an MOT tester prior to
current test certificate must be issued before It has only been possible to summarise the submitting the motorcycle for the test.
a machine can be used on public roads, and test requirements here, based on the Check that the frame number is clearly
is required before a road fund licence can be regulations in force at the time of printing. Test visible.
issued. Riding without a current test
standards are becoming increasingly stringent,
certificate will also invalidate your insurance.
although there are some exemptions for older If a component is in
For most owners, the MOT test is an annual HAYNES
vehicles. More information about the MOT test borderline condition, the
cause for anxiety, and this is largely due to
owners not being sure what needs to be can be obtained from the HMSO publications, HiNT tester has discretion in
checked prior to submitting the motorcycle How Safe is your Motorcycle and The MOT deciding whether to pass or
for testing. The simple answer is that a fully Inspection Manual for Motorcycle Testing. fail it. If the motorcycle presented is
roadworthy motorcycle will have no difficulty Many of the checks require that one of the clean and evidently well cared for, the
in passing the test. wheels is raised off the ground. If the tester may be more inclined to pass a
This is a guide to getting your motorcycle motorcycle doesn’t have a centre stand, note borderline component than if the
through the MOT test. Obviously it will not be that an auxiliary stand will be required. motorcycle is scruffy and apparently
possible to examine the motorcycle to the Additionally, the help of an assistant may neglected.
same standard as the professional MOT prove useful.

Electrical System
Lights, turn signals, horn and Headlight beam height
reflector

✓ With the ignition on, check the operation ✓ The MOT tester will perform a headlight
of the following electrical components. Note: beam height check using specialised beam
The electrical components on certain small- setting equipment (see illustration 1). This
capacity machines are powered by the equipment will not be available to the home
generator, requiring that the engine is run for mechanic, but if you suspect that the
this check. headlight is incorrectly set or may have been
maladjusted in the past, you can perform a
a) Headlight and tail light. Check that both
rough test as follows.
illuminate in the low and high beam ✓ Position the bike in a straight line facing a Headlight beam height checking
switch positions. brick wall. The bike must be off its stand, equipment
b) Position lights. Check that the front upright and with a rider seated. Measure the line up the wall central to the centreline of the
position (or sidelight) and tail light height from the ground to the centre of the motorcycle. Switch to dipped beam and
illuminate in this switch position. headlight and mark a horizontal line on the check that the beam pattern falls slightly
c) Turn signals. Check that all flash at the wall at this height. Position the motorcycle lower than the horizontal line and to the left of
correct rate, and that the warning light(s) 3.8 metres from the wall and draw a vertical the vertical line (see illustration 2).
function correctly. Check that the turn
signal switch works correctly.
c) Hazard warning system (where fitted).
Check that all four turn signals flash in this
switch position.
d) Brake stop light. Check that the light
comes on when the front and rear brakes
are independently applied. Models first
used on or after 1st April 1986 must have
a brake light switch on each brake.
e) Horn. Check that the sound is continuous
and of reasonable volume.
✓ Check that there is a red reflector on the
rear of the machine, either mounted
separately or as part of the tail light lens.
✓ Check the condition of the headlight, tail
light and turn signal lenses.
MOT Test Checks ref.23
Exhaust System and Final Drive
✓ Note that the exhaust decibel level
Exhaust (“ loudness” of the exhaust) is assessed at the Final drive
discretion of the tester. If the motorcycle was
first used on or after 1st January 1985 the
silencer must carry the BSAU 193 stamp, or a
✓ Check that the exhaust mountings are marking relating to its make and model, or be ✓ On chain or belt drive machines, check
secure and that the system does not foul any of OE (original equipment) manufacture. If the that the chain/belt is in good condition and
of the rear suspension components. silencer is marked NOT FOR ROAD USE, does not have excessive slack. Also check
✓ Start the motorcycle. When the revs are RACING USE ONLY or similar, it will fail the that the sprocket is securely mounted on the
increased, check that the exhaust is neither MOT. rear wheel hub. Check that the chain/belt
holed nor leaking from any of its joints. On a guard is in place.
linked system, check that the collector box is ✓ On shaft drive bikes, check for oil leaking
not leaking due to corrosion. from the drive unit and fouling the rear tyre.

Steering and Suspension


tester will perform a check of the steering head
Steering bearing lower race by mounting the front wheel Front suspension
on a surface plate, then performing a lock to
lock check with the weight of the machine on
the lower bearing (see illustration 3).
✓ With the front wheel raised off the ground, ✓ Grasp the fork sliders (lower legs) and ✓ With the m otorcycle off the stand, hold
rotate the steering from lock to lock. The attem pt to push and pull on the forks (see the front brake on and pump the front forks up
handlebar or switches must not contact the illustration 4). Any play in the steering head and down (see illustration 5). Check that
fuel tank or be close enough to trap the rider’s bearings will be felt. Note that in extreme they are adequately damped.
hand. Problems can be caused by damaged cases, wear of the front fork bushes can be ✓ Inspect the area above and around the
lock stops on the lower yoke and frame, or by misinterpreted for head bearing play. front fork oil seals (see illustration 6). There
the fitting of non-standard handlebars. ✓ Check that the handlebars are securely should be no sign of oil on the fork tube
✓ When performing the lock to lock check, mounted. (stanchion) nor leaking down the slider (lower
also ensure that the steering moves freely ✓ Check that the handlebar grip rubbers are leg). On models so equipped, check that there
without drag or notchiness. Steering movement secure. They should by bonded to the bar left is no oil leaking from the anti-dive units.
can be impaired by poorly routed cables, or by end and to the throttle cable pulley on the
✓ On models with swingarm front
overtight head bearings or worn bearings. The right end.
suspension, check that there is no freeplay in
the linkage when moved from side to side.

Rear suspension

✓ With the motorcycle off the stand and an


assistant supporting the m otorcycle by its
handlebars, bounce the rear suspension (see
illustration 7). Check that the suspension
components do not foul on any of the cycle
Front wheel mounted on a surface plate Checking the steering head bearings parts and check that the shock absorber(s)
for steering head bearing lower race check for freeplay provide adequate damping.

Hold the front brake on and pump the front Inspect the area around the fork dust seal Bounce the rear of the motorcycle
forks up and down to check operation for oil leakage (arrow) to check rear suspension operation
ref.24 MOT Test Checks

Checking for rear suspension linkage play Worn suspension linkage pivots (arrows) Grasp the swingarm at the ends to check
are usually the cause of play in the rear for play in its pivot bearings
suspension
✓ Visually inspect the shock absorber(s) and and attempt to pull it up (see illustration 8). ✓ With the rear wheel raised off the ground,
check that there is no sign of oil leakage from Any play in the swingarm pivot or suspension grasp the swingarm ends and attempt to
its damper. This is somewhat restricted on linkage bearings will be felt as movement. move the swingarm from side to side and
certain single shock models due to the Note: Do not confuse play with actual forwards and backwards - any play indicates
location of the shock absorber. suspension movement. Failure to lubricate wear of the swingarm pivot bearings (see
✓ With the rear wheel raised off the suspension linkage bearings can lead to illustration 10).
ground, grasp the wheel at the highest point bearing failure (see illustration 9).

Brakes, Wheels and Tyres


✓ On disc brakes, examine the flexible systems are properly maintained. For
Brakes hoses from top to bottom. Have an assistant hydraulic disc brakes, check the fluid level,
hold the brake on so that the fluid in the hose lever/pedal feel (bleed of air if its spongy) and
is under pressure, and check that there is no pad material. For drum brakes, check
sign of fluid leakage, bulges or cracking. If adjustment, cable or rod operation and shoe
✓ With the wheel raised off the ground, there are any metal brake pipes or unions, lining thickness.
apply the brake then free it off, and check that check that these are free from corrosion and
the wheel is about to revolve freely w ithout damage. Where a brake-linked anti-dive
brake drag. system is fitted, check the hoses to the anti­
✓ On disc brakes, examine the disc itself. dive in a similar manner. Wheels and tyres
Check that it is securely mounted and not ✓ Check that the rear brake torque arm is
cracked. secure and that its fasteners are secured by
✓ On disc brakes, view the pad material self-locking nuts or castellated nuts with split-
through the caliper mouth and check that the pins or R-pins (see illustration 13). ✓ Check the wheel condition. Cast wheels
pads are not worn down beyond the limit (see ✓ On models with ABS, check that the self­ should be free from cracks and if of the built-
illustration 11). check warning light in the instrument panel up design, all fasteners should be secure.
✓ On drum brakes, check that when the works. Spoked wheels should be checked for
brake is applied the angle between the ✓ The MOT tester will perform a test of the broken, corroded, loose or bent spokes.
operating lever and cable or rod is not too m otorcycle’s braking efficiency based on a ✓ With the wheel raised off the ground, spin
great (see illustration 12). Check also that calculation of rider and m otorcycle weight. the wheel and visually check that the tyre and
the operating lever doesn’t foul any other Although this cannot be carried out at home, wheel run true. Check that the tyre does not
components. you can at least ensure that the braking foul the suspension or mudguards.

Brake pad wear can usually be viewed On drum brakes, check the angle of the
without removing the caliper. Most pads operating lever with the brake fully applied.
have wear indicator grooves (1) and some Most drum brakes have a wear indicator
also have indicator tangs (2) pointer and scale.
MOT Test Checks ref.25

Check for wheel bearing play by trying to Checking the tyre tread depth Tyre direction of rotation arrow can be
move the wheel about the axle (spindle) found on tyre sidewall

USE, COMPETITION USE ONLY or similar,


will fail the MOT.
✓ If the tyre sidewall carries a direction of
rotation arrow, this must be pointing in the
direction of normal wheel rotation (see
illustration 16).
✓ Check that the wheel axle (spindle) nuts
(where applicable) are properly secured. A
self-locking nut or castellated nut with a split-
pin or R-pin can be used (see illustration 17).
✓ Wheel alignment is checked with the
motorcycle off the stand and a rider seated.
With the front wheel pointing straight ahead,
Castellated type wheel axle (spindle) nut Two straightedges are used to check
must be secured by a split pin or R-pin wheel alignment two perfectly straight lengths of metal or wood
and placed against the sidewalls of both tyres
(see illustration 18). The gap each side of the
✓ With the wheel raised off the ground, condition and sidewall condition (see front tyre must be equidistant on both sides.
grasp the wheel and attempt to move it about illustration 15). Incorrect wheel alignment may be due to a
the axle (spindle) (see illustration 14). Any ✓ Check the tyre type. Front and rear tyre cocked rear wheel (often as the result of poor
play felt here indicates wheel bearing failure. types must be compatible and be suitable for chain adjustment) or in extreme cases, a bent
✓ Check the tyre tread depth, tread road use. Tyres marked NOT FOR ROAD frame.

General checks and condition


✓ Check the security of all major fasteners, ✓ Check that the rider and pillion footrests, ✓ Check for corrosion on the frame or any
bodypanels, seat, fairings (where fitted) and handlebar levers and brake pedal are securely load-bearing components. If severe, this may
mudguards. mounted. affect the structure, particularly under stress.

Sidecars
A motorcycle fitted with a sidecar requires swivel joints, plus specific wheel alignment motorcycle use. Owners are advised to check
additional checks relating to the stability of (toe-in) requirements. Additionally, tyre and MOT test requirements with an official test
the machine and security of attachment and lighting requirements differ from conventional centre.
REF*26 Storage
Preparing for storage
Before you start remove the spark plugs and fit them back in
their caps; ensure that the plugs are earthed
If repairs or an overhaul is needed, see that (grounded) against the cylinder head when the
this is carried out now rather than left until you starter is operated (see illustration 3).
want to ride the bike again. Warning: It is important that the
Give the bike a good wash and scrub all dirt plugs are earthed (grounded)
from its underside. Make sure the bike dries
completely before preparing for storage.

Engine
A away from the spark plug holes
otherwise there is a risk of
atomised fuel from the
cylinders igniting.
• Remove the spark plug(s) and lubricate the
cylinder bores with approximately a teaspoon On a single cylinder four-
of motor oil using a spout-type oil can (see HAYNES
stroke engine, you can seal
illustration 1). Reinstall the spark plug(s). the combustion chamber
Crank the engine over a couple of times to completely by positioning
coat the piston rings and bores with oil. If the Exhausts can be sealed off with a plastic
the piston at TDC on the compression
bike has a kickstart, use this to turn the engine bag
stroke.
over. If not, flick the kill switch to the OFF
position and crank the engine over on the Battery
starter (see illustration 2). If the nature on the • Remove it from the bike - in extreme cases
ignition system prevents the starter operating of cold the battery may freeze and crack its
with the kill switch in the OFF position, case (see illustration 6).

Connect a hose to the carburettor float


chamber drain stub (arrow) and unscrew
the drain screw
Squirt a drop of motor oil into each
cylinder • Drain the carburettor(s) otherwise there is a
Disconnect the negative lead (A) first,
risk of jets becoming blocked by gum
followed by the positive lead (B)
deposits from the fuel (see illustration 4).
• If the bike is going into long-term storage, • Check the electrolyte level and top up if
consider adding a fuel stabiliser to the fuel in necessary (conventional refillable batteries).
the tank. If the tank is drained completely, Clean the terminals.
corrosion of its internal surfaces may occur if • Store the battery off the motorcycle and
left unprotected for a long period. The tank away from any sources of fire. Position a
can be treated with a rust preventative wooden block under the battery if it is to sit on
especially for this purpose. Alternatively, the ground.
remove the tank and pour half a litre of motor • Give the battery a trickle charge for a few
oil into it, install the filler cap and shake the hours every month (see illustration 7).
Flick the kill switch to OFF . . . tank to coat its internals with oil before
draining off the excess. The same effect can
also be achieved by spraying WD40 or a
similar water-dispersant around the inside of
the tank via its flexible nozzle.
• Make sure the cooling system contains the
correct mix of antifreeze. Antifreeze also
contains important corrosion inhibitors.
• The air intakes and exhaust can be sealed
off by covering or plugging the openings.
Ensure that you do not seal in any
condensation; run the engine until it is hot,
then switch off and allow to cool. Tape a piece
of thick plastic over the silencer end(s) (see
. and ensure that the metal bodies of the illustration 5). Note that some advocate
plugs (arrows) are earthed against the pouring a tablespoon of m otor oil into the Use a suitable battery charger - this kit
cylinder head silencer(s) before sealing them off. also assess battery condition
Storage ref.2?
Tyres Pivots and controls not compress the forks otherwise the seals
will rot from contact with the Vaseline.
t Place the bike on its centrestand or an • Lubricate all lever, pedal, stand and • Apply a vinyl cleaner to the seat.
auxiliary stand which will support the footrest pivot points. If grease nipples are
motorcycle in an upright position. Position fitted to the rear suspension components,
wood blocks under the tyres to keep them off apply lubricant to the pivots. Storage conditions
the ground and to provide insulation from • Lubricate all control cables.
damp. If the bike is being put into long-term • Aim to store the bike in a shed or garage
storage, ideally both tyres should be off the which does not leak and is free from damp.
ground; not only will this protect the tyres, but Cycle components • Drape an old blanket or bedspread over
will also ensure that no load is placed on the • Apply a wax protectant to all painted and the bike to protect it from dust and direct
steering head or wheel bearings. plastic components. Wipe off any excess, but contact with sunlight (which will fade paint).
• Deflate each tyre by 5 to 10 psi, no more or don't polish to a shine. Where fitted, clean the This also hides the bike from prying eyes.
the beads may unseat from the rim, making screen with soap and water. Beware of tig ht-fittin g plastic covers which
subsequent inflation difficult on tubeless • Coat metal parts with Vaseline (petroleum may allow condensation to form and settle on
tyres. jelly). When applying this to the fork tubes, do the bike.

Getting back on the road


Engine and transmission the fuel tank prior to storage, it is advised that remove it from the motorcycle and check its
the old fuel is disposed of since it will go off electrolyte level. Top up if necessary then
• Change the oil and replace the oil filter. If over a period of time. Refill the fuel tank with charge the battery. If the battery fails to hold a
this was done prior to storage, check that the fresh fuel. charge and a visual checks show heavy white
oil hasn’t emulsified - a thick whitish sulphation of the plates, the battery is
substance which occurs through probably defective and must be renewed. This
condensation. Frame and running gear is particularly likely if the battery is old.
• Remove the spark plugs. Using a spout- Confirm battery condition with a specific
• Oil all pivot points and cables.
type oil can, squirt a few drops of oil into the gravity check.
• Check the tyre pressures. They will
cyllnder(s). This will provide initial lubrication • On sealed (MF) batteries, if the battery has
definitely need inflating if pressures were
as the piston rings and bores comes back into not received any attention, remove it from the
contact. Service the spark plugs, or fit new reduced for storage.
• Lubricate the final drive chain (where m otorcycle and charge it according to the
ones, and install them in the engine. information on the battery case - if the battery
• Check that the clutch isn’t stuck on. The applicable).
• Remove any protective coating applied to fails to hold a charge it must be renewed.
plates can stick together if left standing for
some time, preventing clutch operation. the fork tubes (stanchions) since this may well
destroy the fork seals. If the fork tubes
Engage a gear and try rocking the bike back
weren’t protected and have picked up rust
Starting procedure
and forth with the clutch lever held against the
spots, remove them with very fine abrasive • If a kickstart is fitted, turn the engine over a
handlebar. If this doesn’t work on cable-
paper and refinish with metal polish. couple of times with the ignition OFF to
operated clutches, hold the clutch lever back
• Check that both brakes operate correctly. distribute oil around the engine. If no kickstart
against the handlebar with a strong elastic
Apply each brake hard and check that it’s not is fitted, flick the engine kill switch OFF and
band or cable tie for a couple of hours (see
possible to move the m otorcycle forwards, the ignition ON and crank the engine over a
illustration 8).
then check that the brake frees off again once couple of times to work oil around the upper
released. Brake caliper pistons can stick due cylinder components. If the nature of the
to corrosion around the piston head, or on the ignition system is such that the starter won't
sliding caliper types, due to corrosion of the work with the kill switch OFF, remove the
slider pins. If the brake doesn’t free after spark plugs, fit them back into their caps and
repeated operation, take the caliper off for earth (ground) their bodies on the cylinder
examination. Similarly drum brakes can stick head. Reinstall the spark plugs afterwards.
due to a seized operating cam, cable or rod • Switch the kill switch to RUN, operate the
linkage. choke and start the engine. If the engine won’t
• If the m otorcycle has been in long-term start don’t continue cranking the engine - not
storage, renew the brake fluid and clutch fluid only will this flatten the battery, but the starter
(where applicable). motor will overheat. Switch the ignition off and
• Depending on where the bike has been try again later. If the engine refuses to start,
stored, the wiring, cables and hoses may have go through the fault finding procedures in this
been nibbled by rodents. Make a visual check manual. Note: If the bike has been in storage
and investigate disturbed wiring loom tape. for a long time, old fuel o r a carburettor
Hold clutch lever back against the blockage may be the problem. Gum deposits
handlebar with elastic bands or a cable tie in carburettors can block jets - if a carburettor
Battery cleaner doesn’t prove successful the
carburettors must be dismantled for cleaning.
• If the air intakes or silencer end(s) were • If the battery has been previously removal
blocked off, remove the bung or cover used. and given top up charges it can simply be • Once the engine has started, check that
I If the fuel tank was coated with a rust reconnected. Remember to connect the the lights, turn signals and horn work properly.
preventative, oil or a stabiliser added to the positive cable first and the negative cable last. • Treat the bike gently for the first ride and
fuel, drain and flush the tank and dispose of • On conventional refillable batteries, if the check all fluid levels on completion. Settle the
the fuel sensibly. If no action was taken with battery has not received any attention, bike back into the maintenance schedule.
ref.28 Fault Finding

This Section provides an easy reference-guide to the more common of possible causes, starting with the simplest or most obvious and
faults that are likely to afflict your machine. Obviously, the progressing in stages to the most complex.
opportunities are almost limitless for faults to occur as a result of Take nothing for granted, but above all apply liberal quantities of
obscure failures, and to try and cover all eventualities would require a common sense.
book. Indeed, a number have been written on the subject. The main symptom of a fault is given in the text as a major heading
Successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious ‘black art’ but the below which are listed the various systems or areas which may contain
application of a bit of knowledge combined with a systematic and the fault. Details of each possible cause for a fault and the remedial
logical approach to the problem. Approach any troubleshooting by first action to be taken are given, in brief, in the paragraphs below each
accurately identifying the symptom and then checking through the list heading. Further information should be sought in the relevant Chapter.

1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start 7 Abnormal engine noise


□ Starter motor does not rotate □ Knocking or pinging
□ Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over □ Piston slap or rattling
□ Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized) □ Valve noise
□ No fuel flow □ Other noise
□ Engine flooded
□ No spark or weak spark 8 Abnormal driveline noise
□ Compression low □ Clutch noise
□ Stalls after starting □ Transmission noise
□ Rough idle □ Chain or final drive noise
2 Poor running at low speed 9 Abnormal frame and suspension noise
□ Spark weak
□ Front end noise
□ Fuel/air mixture incorrect
□ Shock absorber noise
□ Compression low
□ Disc brake noise
□ Poor acceleration

3 Poor running or no power at high speed 10 Oil pressure indicator light comes on
□ Firing incorrect □ Engine lubrication system
□ Fuel/air mixture incorrect □ Electrical system
□ Compression low
□ Knocking or pinging 11 Excessive exhaust smoke
□ Miscellaneous causes □ White smoke
□ Black smoke
4 Overheating □ Brown smoke
□ Cooling system not operating properly
□ Firing incorrect 12 Poor handling or stability
□ Fuel/air mixture incorrect □ Handlebar hard to turn
□ Compression too high □ Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively
□ Engine load excessive □ Handlebar pulls to one side
□ Lubrication inadequate □ Poor shock absorbing qualities
□ Miscellaneous causes
5 Clutch problems 13 Braking problems
Clutch slipping □ Brakes are spongy, don’t hold

Clutch not disengaging completely □ Brake lever pulsates

□ Brakes drag
6 Gear shifting problems
□ Doesn’t go into gear, or lever doesn’t return 14 Electrical problems
□ Jumps out of gear □ Battery dead or weak
□ Overshifts □ Battery overcharged
Fault Finding ref.29
1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start
Starter motor does not rotate operated and the engine started without opening the throttle. When
the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of
□ Engine kill switch Off.
throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel
□ Fuse blown. Check fuse block (Chapter 9).
tap off and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This
□ Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 9).
will allow additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the
□ Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is
fuel back on after the engine starts.
secure. Make sure the starter solenoid (relay) clicks when the start
button is pushed. If the solenoid clicks, then the fault is in the wiring No spark or weak spark
or motor.
□ Ignition switch Off.
□ Starter solenoid (relay) faulty. Check it according to the procedure
□ Engine kill switch turned to the Off position.
in Chapter 9.
□ Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery as necessary
□ Starter button not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded
(Chapter 9).
or dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch (Chapter 9).
□ Spark plug dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled
□ Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and
plug(s) using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug
harnesses to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded.
maintenance procedures in Chapter 1.
Also check for broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to
□ Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition.
ground/earth (see wiring diagram, Chapter 9).
Replace either or both components if cracks or deterioration are
□ Ignition switch defective. Check the switch according to the
evident (Chapter 5).
procedure in Chapter 9. Replace the switch with a new one if it is
□ Spark plug cap not making good contact. Make sure that the plug
defective.
cap fits snugly over the plug end.
□ Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded
□ IC igniter defective. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 5 for
contacts. Clean or replace the switch as necessary (Chapter 9).
details.
□ Faulty starter lockout switch. Check the wiring to the switch and the
□ Pickup coil defective. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 5 for
switch itself according to the procedures in Chapter 9.
details.
Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn □ Ignition coil(s) defective. Check the coils, referring to Chapter 5.
over □ Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water,
C Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or replace corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be
(Chapter 2). disassembled and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. If
□ Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and replace the damaged cleaning does not help, replace the switches (Chapter 9).
parts (Chapter 2). □ Wiring shorted or broken between:
Ignition switch and engine kill switch
Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized) IC igniter and engine kill switch
□ Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged IC igniter and ignition coil
components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Ignition coil and plug
Damage can include seized valves, camshafts, pistons, crankshaft, IC igniter and pickup coil
connecting rod bearings, or transmission gears or bearings. Refer □ Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight. Look
to Chapter 2 for engine disassembly. for chafed and broken wires (Chapters 5 and 9).

No fuel flow Compression low


□ No fuel in tank. □ Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads.
□ Fuel tap vacuum hose broken or disconnected. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).
□ Tank cap air vent obstructed. Usually caused by dirt or water. □ Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is
Remove it and clean the cap vent hole. suspected of being loose,; then there's a chance that the gasket or
□ Fuel filter clogged. Inspect, and if necessary replace the filter head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of
(Chapter 4). time. The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the
□ Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it. correct sequence (Chapter 2).
□ Inlet needle valves clogged. For both the valves to be clogged, either □ Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing
a very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve.
some other foreign object has entered the tank. Many times after a Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1).
machine has been stored for many months without running, the fuel □ Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause
turns to a varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually
valves and jets. The carburetors should be removed and overhauled accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is
if draining the float bowls does not alleviate the problem. necessary (Chapter 2).
□ Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
Engine flooded piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or Carburetion problem
E Float level too high. Check and adjust as described in Chapter 4. that causes excess carbon deposits to form on the pistons and
□ Inlet needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
debris can cause the inlet needle to seat improperly, causing □ Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by
excess fuel to be admitted to the float bowl. In this case, the float excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is
chamber should be cleaned and the needle and seat inspected. If necessary (Chapter 2).
the needle and seat are worn, then the leaking will persist and the □ Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
parts should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 4). loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
0 Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances (i.e., if all combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head
the carburetor functions are sound) the machine should start with gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to
little or no throttle. When the engine is cold, the choke should be restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
ref.30 Fault Finding
1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start (continued)
□ Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly □ Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake manifold
tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or
replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). hose, or loose carburetor top (Chapter 4).
□ Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; Idle speed incorrect. Turn idle speed adjuster screw until the engine
the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2). idles at the specified rpm (Chapters 1 and 4).
□ Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
(improper Carburetion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on
Rough idle
the seat (from Carburetion, lubrication problems). The valves must □ Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 5.
be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible □ Idle speed incorrect. See Chapter 1.
(Chapter 2). □ Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust carburetors with vacuum
gauge set or manometer as outlined in Chapter 1.
Stalls after starting □ Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 4.
□ Improper choke action. Make sure the choke rod is getting a full □ Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or
stroke and staying in the “out” position. Adjustment of the cable water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for
slack is covered in Chapter 1. several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls. If the
□ Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 5. problem is severe, a carburetor overhaul may be necessary
□ Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 4. (Chapters 1 and 4).
□ Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or □ Intake air leak.
water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for □ Air cleaner clogged. Service or replace air filter element (Chap­
several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 4). ter 1).

2 Poor running at low speed


Spark weak □ Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause
compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually
□ Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 9).
accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is
□ Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for
necessary (Chapter 2).
spark plug maintenance.
□ Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
□ Spark plug cap or high tension wiring defective. Refer to Chap­
piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or Carburetion problem
ters 1 and 5 for details of the ignition system.
□ Spark plug cap not making contact. that causes excess carbon deposits to form on the pistons and
□ Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or □ Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by
one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is
without fouling. necessary (Chapter 2).
□ IC igniter defective. See Chapter 5. □ Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
□ Pickup coil defective. See Chapter 5. loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
□ Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 5. combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head
gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to
Fuel/air mixture incorrect restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
□ Pilot screw(s) out of adjustment (Chapters 1 and 4). □ Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
□ Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head
carburetors (Chapter 4). replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
□ Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburetor and blow out all □ Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear;
passages (Chapter 4). the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).
□ Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing. □ Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over­
□ Air cleaner-to-carburetor boot poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper
or loose clamps and replace or repair defective parts. Carburetion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from
□ Fuel level too high or too low. Adjust the floats (Chapter 4). Carburetion, lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned
□ Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Make sure that the air vent passage in and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible (Chapter 2).
the filler cap is open (except California models).
□ Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears Poor acceleration
or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots. □ Carburetors leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburetors (Chapter 4).
Compression low □ Timing not advancing. The pickup coil unit or the IC igniter may be
□ Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. defective. If so, they must be replaced with new ones, as they
Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1). cannot be repaired.
□ Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is □ Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust them with a vacuum gauge
suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket and set or manometer (Chapter 1).
head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of □ Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that
time. The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication
correct sequence (Chapter 2). system and cause drag on the engine.
□ Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing □ Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the
completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle.
Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). Repair as necessary (Chapter 7).
Fault Finding ref.31
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 Poor running or no power at high speed
Firing incorrect ~ Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
□ Air filter restricted. Clean or replace filter (Chapter 1). piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or Carburetion problem
that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the
□ Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark
pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
plug maintenance.
□ Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by
□ Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring defective. See Chap­
excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is
ters 1 and 5 for details of the ignition system.
necessary (Chapter 2).
□ Spark plug cap not in good contact. See Chapter 5.
□ Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
□ Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.
loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or
combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head
one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds
gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to
without fouling.
restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
□ IC igniter defective. See Chapter 5.
□ Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
□ Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 5.
tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head
Fuel/air mixture incorrect replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
□ Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear;
□ Main jet clogged. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the
the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).
main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area, and the jets
□ Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
and carburetor orifices (Chapter 4).
over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
D Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level
(improper Carburetion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on
atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.
the seat (from Carburetion, lubrication problems). The valves must
C Throttle shaft-to-carburetor body clearance excessive. Refer to
be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible
Chapter 4 for inspection and part replacement procedures.
(Chapter 2).
D Air bleed holes clogged. Remove and overhaul carburetors
(Chapter 4). Knocking or pinging
□ Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing. □ Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that
□ Air cleaner-to-carburetor boot poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the crown
or loose clamps, and replace or repair defective parts. and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Otherwise,
□ Fuel level too high or too low. Adjust the float(s) (Chapter 4). the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized
□ Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Make sure the air vent passage in the (Chapter 2).
filler cap is open. □ Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper grades of gasoline
□ Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears (petrol) can cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus
or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots the knocking or pinging sound. Drain old fuel and always use the
(Chapter 2). recommended fuel grade.
□ Fuel filter clogged. Clean, and if necessary, replace the filter □ Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates
(Chapter 1). the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow
□ Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range
it. plug (Chapter 1).
Compression low □ Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinder to run hot,
which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause
□ Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. this imbalance. See Chapter 4.
Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).
□ Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is Miscellaneous causes
suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket and □ Throttle valve doesn’t open fully. Adjust the cable slack (Chapter 1 ).
head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of □ Clutch slipping. Caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch
time. The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the components. Refer to Chapter 2 for adjustment and overhaul
correct sequence (Chapter 2). procedures.
□ Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing □ Timing not advancing.
completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. □ Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one
Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication
□ Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause system and cause drag on the engine.
compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually □ Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the
accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle.
necessary (Chapter 2). Repair as necessary.
ref-32 Fault Finding
4 Overheating
Cooling system not operating properly Compression too high
□ Coolant level low. Check coolant level as described in Chapter 1. If □ Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that
coolant level is low, the engine will overheat. will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston
□ Leak in cooling system. Check cooling system hoses and radiator crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.
for leaks and other damage. Repair or replace parts as necessary Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and
(Chapter 3). decarbonized (Chapter 2).
□ Thermostat sticking open or closed. Check and replace as □ Improperly machined head surface or installation of incorrect
described in Chapter 3. gasket during engine assembly. Check Specifications (Chapter 2).
□ Faulty radiator cap. Remove the cap and have it pressure checked
at a service station. Engine load excessive
□ Coolant passages clogged. Have the entire system drained and □ Clutch slipping. Caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch
flushed, then refill with new coolant. components. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures.
□ Water pump defective. Remove the pump and check the □ Engine oil level too high. The addition of too much oil will cause
components. pressurization of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation.
□ Clogged radiator fins. Clean them by blowing compressed air Check Specifications and drain to proper level (Chapter 1).
through the fins from the back side. □ Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one
Firing incorrect recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication
system as well as cause drag on the engine.
□ Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark □ Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the
plug maintenance. brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle.
□ Incorrect spark plug. Repair as necessary.
□ Faulty ignition coil(s) (Chapter 5).
Fuel/air mixture incorrect Lubrication inadequate
□ Main jet clogged. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the □ Engine oil level too low. Friction caused by intermittent lack of
main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area and the jets lubrication or from oil that is “overworked” can cause overheating.
and carburetor orifices (Chapter 4). The oil provides a definite cooling function in the engine. Check the
□ Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level oil level (Chapter 1).
atmospheric pressure and oxygen content. □ Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated not
□ Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing. only according to viscosity but also according to type. Some oils
□ Air cleaner-to-carburetor boot poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes are not rated high enough for use in this engine. Check the
or loose clamps and replace or repair. Specifications section and change to the correct oil (Chapter 1).
□ Fuel level too low. Adjust the float(s) (Chapter 4).
□ Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Make sure that the air vent passage in Miscellaneous causes
the filler cap is open (except California models). □ Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems
□ Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears cause the engine to run leaner, which makes it run hotter. When
or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the
(Chapter 4). carburetors.

5 Clutch problems
Clutch slipping □ Clutch spring tension uneven. Usually caused by a sagged or
broken spring. Check and replace the springs (Chapter 2).
□ Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly
□ Engine oil deteriorated. Old, thin, worn out oil will not provide
(Chapter 2).
proper lubrication for the discs, causing the clutch to drag. Replace
□ Metal plates worn or warped (Chapter 2).
the oil and filter (Chapter 1).
□ Clutch springs broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged (from slipping
□ Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than recommended
clutch) springs should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 2).
in Chapter 1 can cause the plates to stick together, putting a
□ Clutch release mechanism defective. Check the mechanism and
replace any defective parts (Chapter 2). drag on the engine. Change to the correct weight oil (Chap­
□ Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn. This causes improper ter 1).
engagement of the discs. Replace the damaged or worn parts □ Clutch housing seized on shaft. Lack of lubrication, severe wear or
(Chapter 2). damage can cause the housing to seize on the shaft. Overhaul of
the clutch, and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair
Clutch not disengaging completely damage (Chapter 2).
□ Air in clutch hydraulic system. Bleed the system (Chapter 2). □ Clutch release mechanism defective. Worn or damaged release
□ Clutch master or release cylinder worn. Inspect and, if necessary, mechanism parts can stick and fail to apply force to the pressure
overhaul the cylinders (Chapter 2). plate. Overhaul the release mechanism (Chapter 2).
□ Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause clutch drag, □ Loose clutch hub nut. Causes housing and hub misalignment
which in turn causes the machine to creep. Overhaul the clutch putting a drag on the engine. Engagement adjustment continually
assembly (Chapter 2). varies. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).
Fault Finding ref*33
6 Gear shifting problems
Doesn’t go into gear or lever doesn’t return □ Pawl spring broken. Allows pawl to “float” , causing sporadic shift
operation. Replace spring (Chapter 2).
□ Clutch not disengaging. See Section 5.
□ Shift fork(s) bent or seized. Often caused by dropping the machine
or from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). Jumps out of gear
□ Gear(s) stuck on shaft. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication or □ Shift fork(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushings. Overhaul □ Gear groove(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
the transmission (Chapter 2). □ Gear dogs or dog slots worn or damaged. The gears should be
□ Shift drum binding. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive wear. inspected and replaced. No attempt should be made to service the
Replace the drum and bearings (Chapter 2). worn parts.
□ Shift lever return spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).
□ Shift lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused by
allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine. Overshifts
Replace necessary parts (Chapter 2). □ Pawl spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).
□ Shift mechanism pawl broken or worn. Full engagement and rotary □ Shift drum stopper lever not functioning (Chapter 2).
movement of shift drum results. Replace shaft assembly (Chapter 2). □ Overshift limiter broken or distorted (Chapter 2).

7 Abnormal engine noise


Knocking or pinging Valve noise
□ Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that □ Incorrect valve clearances. Adjust the clearances by referring to
will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston Chapter 1.
crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. □ Valve spring broken or weak. Check and replace weak valve springs
Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and (Chapter 2).
decarbonized (Chapter 2). □ Camshaft or cylinder head worn or damaged. Lack of lubrication at
□ Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper fuel can cause high rpm is usually the cause of damage. Insufficient oil or failure to
detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the knocking or change the oil at the recommended intervals are the chief causes.
pinging sound. Drain the old fuel and always use the recommended Since there are no replaceable bearings in the head, the head itself
grade (Chapter 4). will have to be replaced if there is excessive wear or damage
□ Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates (Chapter 2).
that the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a
glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat
range plug (Chapter 1).
Other noise
□ Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinder to run hot and □ Cylinder head gasket leaking. This will cause compression leakage
lead to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this into the cooling system (which may show up as air bubbles in the
imbalance. See Chapter 4. coolant in the radiator). Also, coolant may get into the oil (which will
turn the oil gray and foamy). In either case, have the cooling system
Piston slap or rattling checked by a dealer service department.
□ Cylinder-to-piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper □ Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by
assembly. Inspect and overhaul top end parts (Chapter 2). improper fit of pipe(s) or loose exhaust flange. All exhaust fasteners
□ Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-revving, trying to start a should be tightened evenly and carefully. Failure to do this will lead
badly flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the to a leak.
combustion chamber. Replace the damaged parts (Chapter 2). □ Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (from
□ Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized from wear or lack of over-revving) or damage from an upper cylinder component failure.
lubrication. Replace damaged parts (Chapter 2). Can also be attributed to dropping the machine on either of the
□ Piston ring(s) worn, broken or sticking. Overhaul the top end crankshaft ends.
(Chapter 2). □ Engine mounting fasteners loose. Tighten all engine mounting
□ Piston seizure damage. Usually from lack of lubrication or fasteners to the specified torque (Chapter 2).
overheating. Replace the pistons and bore the cylinders, as □ Crankshaft bearings worn (Chapter 2).
necessary (Chapter 2). □ Camshaft chain tensioner defective. Replace according to the
□ Connecting rod bearing and/or piston pin-end clearance excessive. procedure in Chapter 2.
Caused by excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Replace worn parts. □ Camshaft chain, sprockets or guides worn (Chapter 2).
ref.34 Fault Finding
8 Abnormal driveline noise
Clutch noise □ Engine oil level too low. Causes a howl from transmission. Also
□ Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive (Chapter 2). affects engine power and clutch operation (Chapter 1).
□ Loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and/or bolts (Chapter 2).
Chain or final drive noise
Transmission noise □ Chain not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).
□ Bearings worn. Also includes the possibility that the shafts are □ Sprocket (engine sprocket or rear sprocket) loose. Tighten
worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). fasteners (Chapter 6).
□ Gears worn or chipped (Chapter 2). □ Sprocket(s) worn. Replace sprocket(s) (Chapter 6).
□ Metal chips jammed in gear teeth. Probably pieces from a broken □ Rear sprocket warped. Replace sprockets and chain as a set
clutch, gear or shift mechanism that were picked up by the gears. (Chapter 6).
This will cause early bearing failure (Chapter 2). □ Wheel coupling worn. Replace coupling (Chapter 6).

9 Abnormal frame and suspension noise


Front end noise □ Bent or damaged shock body. Replace the shock with a new one
□ Low fluid level or improper viscosity oil in forks. This can sound like (Chapter 6).
“spurting” and is usually accompanied by irregular fork action □ Brake noise
(Chapter 6). □ Squeal caused by pad shim not installed or positioned correctly
□ Spring weak or broken. Makes a clicking or scraping sound. Fork (Chapter 7).
oil, when drained, will have a lot of metal particles in it (Chapter 6). □ Squeal caused by dust on brake pads. Usually found in
□ Steering head bearings loose or damaged. Clicks when braking. combination with glazed pads. Clean using brake cleaning solvent
Check and adjust or replace as necessary (Chapters 1 and 6). (Chapter 7).
□ Fork clamps loose. Make sure all fork clamp pinch bolts are tight □ Contamination of brake pads. Oil, brake fluid or dirt causing brake
(Chapter 6). to chatter or squeal. Clean or replace pads (Chapter 7).
□ Fork tube bent. Good possibility if machine has been dropped. □ Pads glazed. Caused by excessive heat from prolonged use or from
Replace tube with a new one (Chapter 6). contamination. Do not use sandpaper, emery cloth, carborundum
□ Front axle or axle clamp bolt loose. Tighten them to the specified cloth or any other abrasive to roughen the pad surfaces as
torque (Chapter 7). abrasives will stay in the pad material and damage the disc. A very
fine flat file can be used, but pad replacement is suggested as a
Shock absorber noise cure (Chapter 7).
□ Fluid level incorrect. Indicates a leak caused by defective seal. H Disc warped. Can cause a chattering, clicking or intermittent
Shock will be covered with oil. Replace shock (Chapter 6). squeal. Usually accompanied by a pulsating lever and uneven
□ Defective shock absorber with internal damage. This is in the body braking. Replace the disc (Chapter 7).
of the shock and cannot be remedied. The shock must be replaced □ Loose or worn wheel bearings. Check and replace as needed
with a new one (Chapter 6). (Chapter 7).

10 Oil pressure indicator light comes on


Engine lubrication system □ Crankshaft and/or bearings worn. Same problems as para­
□ Engine oil pump defective (Chapter 2). graph 4. Check and replace crankshaft and/or bearings (Chap­
ter 2).
□ Engine oil level low. Inspect for leak or other problem causing low
oil level and add recommended lubricant (Chapters 1 and 2).
□ Engine oil viscosity too low. Very old, thin oil or an improper weight
of oil used in engine. Change to correct lubricant (Chapter 1). Electrical system
□ Camshaft or journals worn. Excessive wear causing drop in oil □ Oil pressure switch defective. Check the switch according to the
pressure. Replace cam and/or head. Abnormal wear could be procedure in Chapter 9. Replace it if it is defective.
caused by oil starvation at high rpm from low oil level or improper □ Oil pressure indicator light circuit defective. Check for pinched,
oil weight or type (Chapter 1). shorted, disconnected or damaged wiring (Chapter 9).
Fault Finding ref.35
11 Excessive exhaust smoke
White smoke Black smoke
□ Piston oil ring worn. The ring may be broken or damaged, causing □ Air cleaner clogged. Clean or replace the element (Chapter 1).
oil from the crankcase to be pulled past the piston into the □ Main jet too large or loose. Compare the jet size to the
combustion chamber. Replace the rings with new ones (Chap­ Specifications (Chapter 4).
ter 2). □ Choke stuck, causing fuel to be pulled through choke circuit
□ Cylinders worn, cracked, or scored. Caused by overheating or oil (Chapter 4).
starvation. The cylinders will have to be rebored and new pistons □ Fuel level too high. Check and adjust the float height as necessary
installed. (Chapter 4).
□ Valve oil seal damaged or worn. Replace oil seals with new ones □ Inlet needle held off needle seat. Clean float bowl and fuel line and
(Chapter 2). replace needle and seat if necessary (Chapter 4).
□ Valve guide worn. Perform a complete valve job (Chapter 2).
□ Engine oil level too high, which causes oil to be forced past the
Brown smoke
rings. Drain oil to the proper level (Chapter 1). □ Main jet too small or clogged. Lean condition caused by wrong size
□ Head gasket broken between oil return and cylinder. Causes oil to main jet or by a restricted orifice. Clean float bowl and jets and
be pulled into combustion chamber. Replace the head gasket and compare jet size to Specifications (Chapter 4).
check the head for warpage (Chapter 2). □ Fuel flow insufficient. Fuel inlet needle valve stuck closed due to
□ Abnormal crankcase pressurization, which forces oil past the rings. chemical reaction with old fuel. Float height incorrect. Restricted
Clogged breather or hoses usually the cause (Chapter 4). fuel line. Clean line and float bowl and adjust floats if necessary
(Chapter 4).
□ Carburetor intake manifolds loose (Chapter 4).
□ Air cleaner poorly sealed or not installed (Chapter 1).

12 Poor handling or stability


Handlebar hard to turn Handlebar pulls to one side
□ Steering stem locknut too tight (Chapter 6). □ Frame bent. Definitely suspect this if the machine has been
□ Bearings damaged. Roughness can be felt as the bars are turned dropped. May or may not be accompanied by cracking near the
from side-tp-side. Replace bearings and races (Chapter 6). bend. Replace the frame (Chapter 6).
□ Races d^rtted or worn. Denting results from wear in only one □ Wheel out of alignment. Caused by improper location of axle
position (e. g., straight ahead), from striking an immovable object or spacers or from bent steering stem or frame (Chapter 6).
hole or from dropping the machine.Replace races and bearings □ Swingarm bent or twisted. Caused by age (metal fatigue) or impact
(Chapter 6). damage. Replace the arm (Chapter 6),
□ Steering stem lubrication inadequate. Causes are grease getting □ Steering stem bent. Caused by impact damage or from dropping
hard from age or being washed out by high pressure car washes. the motorcycle. Replace the steering stem (Chapter 6).
Disassemble steering head and repack bearings (Chapter 6). □ Fork leg bent. Disassemble the forks and replace the damaged
□ Steering stem bent. Caused by hitting a curb or hole or from parts (Chapter 6).
dropping the machine. Replace damaged part. Do not try to □ Fork oil level uneven.
straighten stem (Chapter 6).
□ Front tire air pressure too low (Chapter 1).
Poor shock absorbing qualities
Too hard:
Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively Fork oil level excessive (Chapter 6).
□ Tires worn or out of balance (Chapter 7). Fork oil viscosity too high. Use a lighter oil (see the Specifications in
□ Swingarm bearings worn. Replace worn bearings by referring to Chapter 6).
Chapter 6. Fork tube bent. Causes a harsh, sticking feeling (Chapter 6).
□ Rim(s) warped or damaged. Inspect wheels for runout (Chapter 7). Shock shaft or body bent or damaged (Chapter 6).
□ Wheel bearings worn. Worn front or rear wheel bearings can cause Fork internal damage (Chapter 6).
poor tracking. Worn front bearings will cause wobble (Chapter 7). Shock internal damage.
□ Handlebar clamp bolts loose (Chapter 6). Tire pressure too high (Chapters 1 and 7).
□ Steering stem or fork clamps loose. Tighten them to the specified Too soft:
torque (Chapter 6). Fork or shock oil insufficient and/or leaking (Chapter 6).
□ Engine mount bolts loose. Will cause excessive vibration with Fork oil viscosity too light (Chapter 6).
increased engine rpm (Chapter 2). Fork springs weak or broken (Chapter 6).
ref.36 Fault Finding
13 Braking problems
Front brakes are spongy, d o n ’t hold □ Brake caliper bolts loose (Chapter 7).
□ Brake caliper shafts damaged or sticking, causing caliper to bind.
□ Air in brake line. Caused by inattention to master cylinder fluid level
Lube the shafts and/or replace them if they are corroded or bent
or by leakage. Locate problem and bleed brakes (Chapter 7).
(Chapter 7).
□ Pad or disc worn (Chapters 1 and 7).
□ Brake fluid leak. See paragraph 1. □ Wheel warped or otherwise damaged (Chapter 7).
□ Contam inated pads. Caused by contam ination w ith oil, grease, □ Wheel bearings damaged or worn (Chapter 7).
brake fluid, etc. Clean or replace pads. Clean disc thoroughly with Brakes drag
brake cleaner (Chapter 7).
□ Master cylinder piston seized. Caused by wear or damage to piston
□ Brake fluid deteriorated. Fluid is old or contaminated. Drain system,
replenish with new fluid and bleed the system (Chapter 7). or cylinder bore (Chapter 7).
□ Master cylinder internal parts worn or damaged causing fluid to □ Lever balky or stuck. Check pivot and lubricate (Chapter 7).
bypass (Chapter 7). □ Brake caliper binds. Caused by inadequate lubrication or damage
□ Master cylinder bore scratched from ingestion of foreign material or to caliper shafts (Chapter 7).
broken spring. Repair or replace master cylinder (Chapter 7). □ Brake caliper piston seized in bore. Caused by wear or ingestion of
□ Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 7). dirt past deteriorated seal (Chapter 7).
□ Brake pad damaged. Pad material separating from backing plate.
Brake le ve r o r p e d a l pulsates Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact
□ Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 7). with chemicals. Replace pads (Chapter 7).
□ Axle bent. Replace axle (Chapter 6). □ Pads improperly installed (Chapter 7).

14 Electrical problems
Battery dead or weak □ Stator coil open or shorted (Chapter 9).
□ Wiring faulty. Wiring grounded (earthed) or connections loose in
□ Battery faulty. Caused by sulfated plates which are shorted through
ignition, charging or lighting circuits (Chapter 9).
sedim entation or by low electrolyte level. Also, broken battery
terminal making only occasional contact (Chapter 9). Battery overcharged
□ Battery cables making poor contact (Chapter 9). □ Regulator/rectifier defective. Overcharging is noticed when battery
□ Load excessive. Caused by addition of high wattage lights or other gets excessively warm or “ boils” over (Chapter 9).
electrical accessories. □ Battery defective. Replace battery with a new one (Chapter 9).
□ Ignition switch defective. Switch either grounds (earths) internally or □ Battery amperage to o low, w rong type or size. Install
fails to shut off system. Replace the switch (Chapter 9). manufacturer’s specified amp-hour battery to handle charging load
□ Regulator/rectifier defective (Chapter 9). (Chapter 9).

Fault Finding Equipment


• Before carrying out the test, first check the
Checking engine compression valve clearances as described in Chapter 1.
1 Run the engine until it reaches normal
operating tem perature, then stop it and
remove the spark plug(s), taking care not to
• Low com pression will result in exhaust scald your hands on the hot components.
smoke, heavy oil consumption, poor starting 2 Install the gauge adapter and compression
and poor performance. A com pression test gauge in No. 1 cylinder spark plug hole (see
will provide useful inform ation about an illustration 1).
engine’s condition and if performed regularly, 3 On kickstart-equipped motorcycles, make
can give warning of trouble before any other sure the ignition switch is OFF, then open the
symptoms become apparent. throttle fully and kick the engine over a couple
• A com pression gauge will be required, of times until the gauge reading stabilises.
along with an adapter to suit the spark plug 4 On motorcycles with electric start only, the
hole thread size. Note that the screw-in type procedure will differ depending on the nature Screw the compression gauge adapter
gauge/adapter set up is preferable to the of the ignition system. Flick the engine kill into the spark plug hole, then screw the
rubber cone type. switch (engine stop switch) to OFF and turn gauge into the adapter
Fault Finding Equipment ref.s/
the ignition switch ON; open the throttle fully battery terminals. Connect the meter’s
and crank the engine over on the starter motor positive (+ve) probe, usually red, to the battery
for a couple of revolutions until the gauge positive (+ve) terminal, followed by the
reading stabilises. If the starter will not operate meter’s negative (-ve) probe, usually black, to
with the kill switch OFF, turn the ignition switch the battery negative terminal (-ve) (see
OFF and refer to the next paragraph. illustration 4).
5 Install the spark plugs back into their 2 If battery voltage is low (below 10 volts on a
suppressor caps and arrange the plug 12 volt battery or below 4 volts on a six volt
electrodes so that their metal bodies are battery), charge the battery and test the
earthed (grounded) against the cylinder head; voltage again. If the battery repeatedly goes
this is essential to prevent damage to the flat, investigate the m otorcycle’s charging
ignition system as the engine is spun over system.
(see illustration 2). Position the plugs well
away from the plug holes otherwise there is a
risk of atomised fuel escaping from the Bores can be temporarily sealed with a Checking battery specific
combustion chambers and igniting. As a squirt of motor oil gravity (SG)
safety precaution, cover the top of the valve 10 High compression pressure indicates
cover with rag. Now turn the ignition switch excessive carbon build-up in the combustion
ON and kill switch ON, open the throttle fully chamber and on the piston crown. If this is the Warning: The gases produced
and crank the engine over on the starter
motor for a couple of revolutions until the
gauge reading stabilises.
case the cylinder head should be removed
and the deposits removed. Note that
excessive carbon build-up is less likely with
A by the battery are explosive -
never smoke or create any
sparks in the vicinity of the
the used on modern fuels. battery. Never allow the electrolyte to
contact your skin or clothing - if it does,
wash it off and seek immediate medical
Checking battery open-circuit attention.
voltage • The specific gravity check gives an
indication of a battery’s state of charge.
• A hydrometer is used for measuring
Warning: The gases produced specific gravity. Make sure you purchase one
by the battery are explosive -

A
which has a small enough hose to insert in the
never smoke or create any aperture of a motorcycle battery.
sparks in the vicinity of the • Specific gravity is simply a measure of the
battery. Never allow the electrolyte to electrolyte’s density compared with that of
contact your skin or clothing - if it does, water. Water has an SG of 1.000 and fully-
wash it off and seek immediate medical charged battery electrolyte is about 26%
attention. heavier, at 1.260.
• Before any electrical fault is investigated • Specific gravity checks are not possible on
All spark plugs must be earthed the battery should be checked. maintenance-free batteries. Testing the open-
(grounded) against the cylinder head • You’ll need a dc voltmeter or multimeter to circuit voltage is the only means of
check battery voltage. Check that the leads determining their state of charge.
6 After one or two revolutions the pressure are inserted in the correct terminals on the
should build up to a maximum figure and then meter, red lead to positive (+ve), black lead to
stabilise. Take a note of this reading and on negative (-ve). Incorrect connections can
multi-cylinder engines repeat the test on the damage the meter.
remaining cylinders. • A sound fully-charged 12 volt battery
7 The correct pressures are given in Chapter should produce between 12.3 and 12.6 volts
2 Specifications. If the results fall within the across its terminals (12.8 volts for a
specified range and on multi-cylinder engines maintenance-free battery). On machines with
all are relatively equal, the engine is in good a 6 volt battery, voltage should be between
condition. If there is a marked difference 6.1 and 6.3 volts.
between the readings, or if the readings are 1 Set a multimeter to the 0 to 20 volts dc
lower than specified, inspection of the top- range and connect its probes across the
end components will be required.
8 Low compression pressure may be due to
worn cylinder bores, pistons or rings, failure of
the cylinder head gasket, worn valve seals, or battery specific gravity
poor valve seating.
9 To distinguish between cylinder/piston 1 To measure SG, remove the battery from the
wear and valve leakage, pour a small quantity motorcycle and remove the first cell cap. Draw
of oil into the bore to temporarily seal the some electrolyte into the hydrometer and note
piston rings, then repeat the compression the reading (see illustration 5). Return the
tests (see illustration 3). If the readings show electrolyte to the cell and install the cap.
a noticeable increase in pressure this 2 The reading should be in the region of
confirms that the cylinder bore, piston, or 1.260 to 1.280. If SG is below 1.200 the
rings are worn. If, however, no change is battery needs charging. Note that SG will vary
indicated, the cylinder head gasket or valves with temperature; it should be measured at
should be examined. Measuring open-circuit battery voltage 20°C (68°F). Add 0.007 to the reading for
ref.38 Fault Finding Equipment
every 10°C above 20°C, and subtract 0.007 • All of these instruments are self-powered
from the reading for every 10°C below 20°C. by a battery, therefore the checks are made
Add 0.004 to the reading for every 10°F above with the ignition OFF.
68°F, and subtract 0.004 from the reading for • As a safety precaution, always disconnect
every 10°F below 68°F. the battery negative (-ve) lead before making
3 When the check is complete, rinse the checks, particularly if ignition switch checks
hydrometer thoroughly with clean water. are being made.
• If using a meter, select the appropriate
ohms scale and check that the meter reads
Checking for continuity infinity (<*>). Touch the meter probes together
and check that meter reads zero; where
necessary adjust the meter so that it reads
zero. ,
• The term continuity describes the • After using a meter, always switch it OFF
uninterrupted flow of electricity through an to conserve its battery. Continuity check of rear brake light switch
electrical circuit. A continuity check will using a continuity tester
determine whether an open-circuit situation
exists.
Switch checks
Wiring checks
• Continuity can be checked with an 1 If a switch is at fault, trace its wiring up to
• Many electrical faults are caused by
ohmmeter, m ultimeter, continuity tester or the wiring connectors. Separate the wire
connectors and inspect them for security and damaged wiring, often due to incorrect
battery and bulb test circuit (see illustrations
routing or chaffing on frame components.
6, 7 and 8). condition. A build-up of dirt or corrosion here
• Loose, wet or corroded wire connectors
will most likely be the cause of the problem -
clean up and apply a water dispersant such can also be the cause of electrical problems,
as WD40. especially in exposed locations.

1 A continuity check can be made on a single


length of wire by disconnecting it at each end
and connecting a meter or continuity tester
across both ends of the wire (see illus­
tration 11).

Digital multimeter can be used for all


electrical tests

Continuity check of front brake light


switch using a meter - note split pins used
to access connector terminals

2 If using a test meter, set the meter to the


ohms x 10 scale and connect its probes
across the wires from the switch (see Continuity check of front brake light
illustration 9). Simple ON/OFF type switches, switch sub-harness
such as brake light switches, only have two
wires whereas combination switches, like the
ignition switch, have many internal links. 2 Continuity (low or no resistance - 0 ohms)
Study the wiring diagram to ensure that you should be indicated if the wire is good. If no
continuity (high resistance) is shown, suspect
Battery-powered continuity tester are connecting across the correct pair of
wires. C ontinuity (low or no measurable a broken wire.
resistance - 0 ohms) should be indicated with
the switch ON and no continuity (high
resistance) with it OFF.
3 Note that the polarity of the test probes Checking for voltage
doesn’t matter for continuity checks, although
care should be taken to follow specific test
procedures if a diode or solid-state
component is being checked. • A voltage check can determine whether
4 A continuity tester or battery and bulb current is reaching a component.
circuit can be used in the same way. Connect • Voltage can be checked with a dc
its probes as described above (see voltmeter, m ultim eter set on the dc volts
illustration 10). The light should come on to scale, test light or buzzer (see illustrations 12
indicate continuity in the ON switch position, and 13). A meter has the advantage of being
Battery and bulb test circuit but should extinguish in the OFF position. able to measure actual voltage.
Fault Finding Equipment ref.39
2 If using a meter, check first that the meter 1 To check the earth on a component, use an
leads are plugged into the correct terminals insulated jumper wire to temporarily bypass
on the meter (see above). Set the meter to the its earth connection (see illustration 16).
dc volts function, at a range suitable for the Connect one end of the jumper wire between
battery voltage. Connect the meter red probe the earth terminal or metal body of the
(+ve) to the power supply wire and the black com ponent and the other end to the
probe to a good metal earth (ground) on the motorcycle’s frame.
motorcycle’s frame or directly to the battery
negative (-ve) terminal (see illustration 14).
Battery voltage should be shown on the meter
with the ignition switched ON.
3 If using a test light or buzzer, connect its
positive (+ve) probe to the power supply
terminal and its negative (-ve) probe to a good
A simple test light can be used for voltage earth (ground) on the m otorcycle’s frame or
checks directly to the battery negative (-ve) terminal
(see illustration 15). With the ignition ON, the
test light should illuminate or the buzzer
sound.

A selection of jumper wires for making


earth (ground) checks

2 If the circuit works with the jumper wire


installed, the original earth circuit is faulty.
Check the wiring for open-circuits or poor
connections. Clean up direct earth
connections, removing all traces of corrosion
A buzzer is useful for voltage checks and remake the joint. Apply petroleum jelly to
the joint to prevent future corrosion.

• When using a meter, check that its leads


are inserted in the correct terminals on the
meter, red to positive (+ve), black to negative
(-ve). Incorrect connections can damage the
meter. Tracing a short-circuit
• A voltm eter (or m ultim eter set to the dc . . . or a test light - note the earth
volts scale) should always be connected in connection to the frame (arrow)
parallel (across the load). Connecting it in 4 If no voltage is indicated, work back
series will destroy the meter. towards the fuse continuing to check for • A short-circuit occurs where current shorts
• Voltage checks are made with the ignition voltage. When you reach a point where there to earth (ground) bypassing the circuit
ON. is voltage, you know the problem lies between components. This usually results in a blown
that point and your last check point. fuse.
1 First identify the relevant wiring circuit by
referring to the wiring diagram at the end of
• A short-circuit is most likely to occur where
this manual. If other electrical components
the insulation has worn through due to wiring
share the same power supply (ie are fed from
chafing on a component, allowing a direct
the same fuse), take note whether they are Checking the earth (ground) path to earth (ground) on the frame.
working correctly - this is useful information in
deciding where to start checking the circuit.
1 Remove any bodypanels necessary to
access the circuit wiring.
• Earth connections are made either directly
2 Check that all electrical switches in the
to the engine or frame (such as sensors,
circuit are OFF, then remove the circuit fuse
neutral switch etc. which only have a positive
and connect a test light, buzzer or voltmeter
feed) or by a separate wire into the earth
(set to the dc scale) across the fuse terminals.
circuit of the wiring harness. Alternatively a
No voltage should be shown.
short earth wire is sometimes run directly from
the component to the motorcycle’s frame. 3 Move the wiring from side to side whilst
• Corrosion is often the cause of a poor observing the test light or meter. When the
earth connection. test light comes on, buzzer sounds or meter
• If total failure is experienced, check the shows voltage, you have found the cause of
security of the main earth lead from the the short. It will usually shown up as damaged
negative (-ve) terminal of the battery and also or burned insulation.
the main earth (ground) point on the wiring 4 Note that the same test can be performed
Checking for voltage at the rear brake light harness. If corroded, dismantle the connection on each component in the circuit, even the
power supply wire using a meter . . . and clean all surfaces back to bare metal. switch.
ref.40 Technical Terms Explained
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less harmful
A B substances.
Charging system Description of the
ABS (Anti-lock braking system) A system, Backlash The amount of movement between components which charge the battery, ie the
usually electronically controlled, that senses meshed components when one component is alternator, rectifer and regulator.
incipient wheel lockup during braking and held still. Usually applies to gear teeth. Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheel which is Ball bearing A bearing consisting of a hardened endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
about to skid. inner and outer race with hardened steel balls shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a groove
Aftermarket Components suitable for the between the two races. in a housing; an external circlip fits into a groove
motorcycle, but not produced by the motorcycle Bearings Used between two working surfaces on the outside of a cylindrical
manufacturer. to prevent wear of the components and a build­ piece such as a shaft. Also known as a snap-ring.
Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into a up of heat. Four types of bearing are commonly Clearance The amount of space between two
recessed hexagonal hole. used on motorcycles: plain shell bearings, ball parts. For example, between a piston and a
Alternating current (ac) Current produced by bearings, tapered roller bearings and needle cylinder, between a bearing and a journal, etc.
an alternator. Requires converting to direct roller bearings. Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found in
current by a rectifier for charging purposes. Bevel gears Used to turn the drive through 90°. various sizes throughout a vehicle, for example
Alternator Converts mechanical energy from the Typical applications are shaft final drive and as a springing medium in the suspension and in
engine into electrical energy to charge the camshaft drive (see illustration). the valve train.
battery and power the electrical system. Compression Reduction in volume, and
Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the increase in pressure and temperature, of a gas,
flow of electrical current. Current = Volts Ohms. caused by squeezing it into a smaller space.
Ampere-hour (Ah) Measure of battery capacity. Compression damping Controls the speed the
Angle-tightening A torque expressed in suspension compresses when hitting a bump.
degrees. Often follows a conventional tightening Compression ratio The relationship between
torque for cylinder head or main bearing cylinder volume when the piston is at top dead
fasteners (see illustration). centre and cylinder volume when the piston is at
bottom dead centre.
Continuity The uninterrupted path in the flow of
electricity. Little or no measurable resistance.
Continuity tester Self-powered bleeper or test
light which indicates continuity.
Cp Candlepower. Bulb rating common found on
US motorcycles.
Bevel gears are used to turn the drive Crossply tyre Tyre plies arranged in a
through 90° criss-cross pattern. Usually four or six plies used,
hence 4PR or 6PR in tyre size codes.
BHP Brake Horsepower. The British Cush drive Rubber damper segments
measurement for engine power output. Power fitted between the rear wheel and final drive
output is now usually expressed in kilowatts sprocket to absorb transmission shocks (see
(kW). illustration).
Bias-belted tyre Similar construction to radial
tyre, but with outer belt running at an angle to the
Angle-tightening cylinder head bolts wheel rim.
Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of the
Antifreeze A substance (usually ethylene glycol) connecting rod that’s attached to the crankshaft.
mixed with water, and added to the cooling Bleeding The process of removing air from an
system, to prevent freezing of the coolant in hydraulic system via a bleed nipple or bleed
winter. Antifreeze also contains chemicals to screw.
inhibit corrosion and the formation of rust and Bottom-end A description of an engine’s
other deposits that would tend to clog the crankcase components and all components
radiator and coolant passages and reduce contained there-in.
cooling efficiency. BTDC Before Top Dead Centre in terms of piston
Anti-dive System attached to the fork lower leg position. Ignition timing is often expressed in terms
(slider) to prevent fork dive when braking hard. of degrees or millimetres BTDC.
Anti-seize compound A coating that reduces Bush A cylindrical metal or rubber component
the risk of seizing on fasteners that are subjected used between two moving parts. Cush drive rubbers dampen out
to high temperatures, such as exhaust clamp Burr Rough edge left on a component after
transmission shocks
bolts and nuts. machining or as a result of excessive wear.
API American Petroleum Institute. A quality
standard for 4-stroke motor oils.
Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
C D
composition of brake friction materials. Asbestos Cam chain The chain which takes drive from the Degree disc Calibrated disc for measuring
is a health hazard and the dust created by brake crankshaft to the camshaft(s). piston position. Expressed in degrees.
systems should never be inhaled or ingested. Canister The main component in an evaporative Dial gauge Clock-type gauge with adapters for
ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid. Often used emission control system (California market only): measuring runout and piston position. Expressed
in front forks. contains activated charcoal granules to trap in mm or inches.
ATU Automatic Timing Unit. Mechanical device vapours from the fuel system rather than allowing Diaphragm The rubber membrane in a master
for advancing the ignition timing on early them to vent to the atmosphere. cylinder or carburettor which seals the upper
engines. Castellated Resembling the parapets along the chamber.
ATV All Terrain Vehicle. Often called a Quad. top of a castle wall. For example, a castellated Diaphragm spring A single sprung plate often
Axial play Side-to-side movement. wheel axle or spindle nut. used in clutches.
Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves. Also Catalytic converter A device in the exhaust Direct current (dc) Current produced by a dc
known as a spindle. system of some machines which converts certain generator.
Technical Terms Explained ref.41
Decarbonisation The process of removing Free length The no-load state of a component Helicoil A thread insert repair system.
carbon deposits - typically from the combustion when measured. Clutch, valve and fork spring Commonly used as a repair for stripped spark
chamber, valves and exhaust port/system. lengths are measured at rest, without any plug threads (see illustration).
Detonation Destructive and damaging preload. Honing A process used to break down the glaze
explosion of fuel/air mixture in combustion Freeplay The amount of travel before any action on a cylinder bore (also called glaze-busting).
chamber instead of controlled burning. takes place. The looseness in a linkage, or an Can also be carried out to roughen a rebored
Diode An electrical valve which only allows assembly of parts, between the initial application cylinder to aid ring bedding-in.
current to flow in one direction. Commonly used of force and actual movement. For example, the HT High Tension Description of the electrical
in rectifiers and starter interlock systems. distance the rear brake pedal moves before the circuit from the secondary winding of the ignition
Disc valve (or rotary valve) A induction system rear brake is actuated. coil to the spark plug.
used on some two-stroke engines. Fuel injection The fuel/air mixture is metered Hydraulic A liquid filled system used to transmit
Double-overhead camshaft (DOHC) An engine electronically and directed into the engine intake pressure from one component to another.
that uses two overhead camshafts, one for the ports (indirect injection) or into the cylinders Common uses on motorcycles are brakes and
intake valves and one for the exhaust valves. (direct injection). Sensors supply information on clutches.
Drivebeit A toothed belt used to transmit drive engine speed and conditions. Hydrometer An instrument for measuring the
to the rear wheel on some motorcycles. A Fuel/air mixture The charge of fuel and air specific gravity of a lead-acid battery.
drivebeit has also been used to drive the going into the engine. See Stoichiometric ratio. Hygroscopic Water absorbing. In motorcycle
camshafts. Drivebelts are usually made of Kevlar. Fuse An electrical device which protects a applications, braking efficiency will be reduced if
Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmit motion. circuit against accidental overload. The typical DOT 3 or 4 hydraulic fluid absorbs water from the
Commonly used when referring to the final fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is air - care must be taken to keep new brake fluid
driveshaft on shaft drive motorcycles. calibrated to melt at a predetermined current in tightly sealed containers.
flow (expressed as amps) and break the circuit.
E G
I
Earth return The return path of an electrical Ibf ft Pounds-force feet. An imperial unit of
circuit, utilising the motorcycle’s frame. Gap The distance the spark must travel in torque. Sometimes written as ft-lbs.
ECU (Electronic Control Unit) A computer jumping from the centre electrode to the side Ibf in Pound-force inch. An imperial unit of
which controls (for instance) an ignition system, electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the torque, applied to components where a very low
or an anti-lock braking system. distance between the ignition rotor and the torque is required. Sometimes written as in-lbs.
EGO Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor. Sometimes pickup coil in an electronic ignition system. IC Abbreviation for Integrated Circuit.
called a Lambda sensor. Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork, Ignition advance Means of increasing the
Electrolyte The fluid in a lead-acid battery. cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed timing of the spark at higher engine speeds.
EMS (Engine Management System) A between two metal surfaces to ensure a good Done by mechanical means (ATU) on early
computer controlled system which manages the seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket seals engines or electronically by the ignition control
fuel injection and the ignition systems in an the joint between the block and the cylinder unit on later engines.
integrated fashion. head. Ignition timing The moment at which the spark
Endfloat The amount of lengthways movement Gauge An instrument panel display used to plug fires, expressed in the number of crankshaft
between two parts. As applied to a crankshaft, monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a degrees before the piston reaches the top of its
the distance that the crankshaft can move side- movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an stroke, or in the number of millimetres before the
to-side in the crankcase. analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Endless chain A chain having no joining link. readout is called a digital gauge. Infinity (<*>) Description of an open-circuit
Common use for cam chains and final drive Gear ratios The drive ratio of a pair of gears in a electrical state, where no continuity exists.
chains. gearbox, calculated on their number of teeth. Inverted forks (upside down forks) The sliders
EP (Extreme Pressure) Oil type used in Glaze-busting see Honing or lower legs are held in the yokes and the fork
locations where high loads are applied, such as Grinding Process for renovating the valve face tubes or stanchions are connected to the wheel
between gear teeth. and valve seat contact area in the cylinder head. axle (spindle). Less unsprung weight and stiffer
Evaporative emission control system Gudgeon pin The shaft which connects the construction than conventional forks.
Describes a charcoal filled canister which stores connecting rod small-end with the piston. Often
fuel vapours from the tank rather than allowing called a piston pin or wrist pin. J
them to vent to the atmosphere. Usually only
fitted to California models and referred to as an
EVAP system.
H JASO Quality standard for 2-stroke oils.
Joule The unit of electrical energy.
Expansion chamber Section of two-stroke Helical gears Gear teeth are slightly curved and Journal The bearing surface of a shaft.
engine exhaust system so designed to improve produce less gear noise that straight-cut gears.
engine efficiency and boost power. Often used for primary drives.
K
F Kickstart Mechanical means of turning the
Feeler blade or gauge A thin strip or blade of engine over for starting purposes. Only usually
hardened steel, ground to an exact thickness, fitted to mopeds, small capacity motorcycles and
used to check or measure clearances between off-road motorcycles.
parts. Kill switch Handebar-mounted switch for
Final drive Description of the drive from the emergency ignition cut-out. Cuts the ignition
transmission to the rear wheel. Usually by chain circuit on all models, and additionally prevent
or shaft, but sometimes by belt. starter motor operation on others,
Firing order The order in which the engine km Symbol for kilometre,
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes, kph Abbreviation for kilometres per hour.
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flooding Term used to describe a high fuel level
in the carburettor float chambers, leading to fuel
L
overflow. Also refers to excess fuel in the Lambda (X) sensor A sensor fitted in the
combustion chamber due to incorrect starting Installing a Helicoil thread insert in a exhaust system to measure the exhaust gas
technique. cylinder head oxygen content (excess air factor).
ref.42 Technical Terms Explained
Lapping see Grinding.
LCD Abbreviation for Liquid Crystal Display. O Pulse secondary air injection system A
process of promoting the burning of excess fuel
LED Abbreviation for Light Emitting Diode. Octane The measure of a fuel’s resistance to present in the exhaust gases by routing fresh air
Liner A steel cylinder liner inserted in a knock. into the exhaust ports.
aluminium alloy cylinder block. OE (Original Equipment) Relates to
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment nut,
or other threaded component, in place.
components fitted to a motorcycle as standard
or replacement parts supplied by the motorcycle
Q
Quartz halogen bulb Tungsten filament
Lockstops The lugs on the lower triple clamp manufacturer. surrounded by a halogen gas. Typically used for
(yoke) which abut those on the frame, preventing Ohm The unit of electrical resistance. Ohms = the headlight (see illustration).
handlebar-to-fuel tank contact. Volts 4- Current.
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring
prevent an attaching nut from working loose. electrical resistance.
LT Low Tension Description of the electrical Oil cooler System for diverting engine oil
circuit from the power supply to the primary outside of the engine to a radiator for cooling
winding of the ignition coil. purposes.
Oil injection A system of two-stroke engine
M lubrication where oil is pump-fed to the engine in
accordance with throttle position.
Main bearings The bearings between the
Open-circuit An electrical condition where there
crankshaft and crankcase.
is a break in the flow of electricity - no continuity
Maintenance-free (MF) battery A sealed
battery which cannot be topped up. (high resistance).
Manometer Mercury-filled calibrated tubes O-ring A type of sealing ring made of a special
used to measure intake tract vacuum. Used to rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring is
synchronise carburettors on multi-cylinder compressed into a groove to provide the
Oversize (OS) Term used for piston and ring
engines.
Micrometer A precision measuring instrument size options fitted to a rebored cylinder.
that measures component outside diameters Overhead cam (sohc) engine An engine with construction
(see illustration). single camshaft located on top of the cylinder
head.
Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with R
the valves located in the cylinder head, but with Rack-and-pinion A pinion gear on the end of a
the camshaft located in the engine block or shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
crankcase. wheel opened up and laid flat). Sometimes used
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the exhaust in clutch operating systems.
system which senses the oxygen content in the Radial play Up and down movement about a
exhaust and converts this information into an shaft.
electric current. Also called a Lambda sensor. Radial ply tyres Tyre plies run across the tyre
(from bead to bead) and around the
P circumference of the tyre. Less resistant to tread
distortion than other tyre types.
Plastigauge A thin strip of plastic thread,
Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device
available in different sizes, used for measuring
designed to reduce the temperature of the
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigauge is
coolant in a liquid cooled engine.
laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
Tappet shims are measured with a Rake A feature of steering geometry - the angle
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
micrometer of the steering head in relation to the vertical (see
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
illustration).
journal and bearing.
MON (Motor Octane Number) A measure of a Polarity Either negative or positive earth
fuel’s resistance to knock. (ground), determined by which battery lead is
Monograde oil An oil with a single viscosity, eg connected to the frame (earth return). Modern
SAE80W. motorcycles are usually negative earth.
Monoshock A single suspension unit linking the Pre-ignition A situation where the fuel/air
swingarm or suspension linkage to the frame, mixture ignites before the spark plug fires. Often
mph Abbreviation for miles per hour. due to a hot spot in the combustion chamber
Multigrade oil Having a wide viscosity range (eg caused by carbon build-up. Engine has a
10W40). The W stands for Winter, thus the tendency to ‘run-on’.
viscosity ranges from SAE10 when cold to Pre-load (suspension) The amount a spring is
SAE40 when hot. compressed when in the unloaded state. Preload
Multimeter An electrical test instrument with the can be applied by gas, spacer or mechanical
capability to measure voltage, current and adjuster.
resistance. Some meters also incorporate a Premix The method of engine lubrication on
continuity tester and buzzer. older two-stroke engines. Engine oil is mixed

N with the petrol in the fuel tank in a specific ratio.


The fuel/oil mix is sometimes referred to as
Needle roller bearing Inner race of caged “ petroil” .
needle rollers and hardened outer race. Primary drive Description of the drive from the
Examples of uncaged needle rollers can be found crankshaft to the clutch. Usually by gear or chain.
on some engines. Commonly used in rear PS Pfedestarke - a German interpretation of
suspension applications and in two-stroke BHP.
engines. PSI Pounds-force per square inch. Imperial
Nm Newton metres. measurement of tyre pressure and cylinder
NOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic pressure measurement.
pollutant emitted by petrol engines at higher PTFE Polytetrafluroethylene. A low friction
temperatures. substance.
Technical Terms Explained ref*43
Rebore Providing a new working surface to the Stoichiometric ratio The optimum chemical
cylinder bore by boring out the old surface. air/fuel ratio for a petrol engine, said to be 14.7 V
Necessitates the use of oversize piston and parts of air to 1 part of fuel. Vacuum gauges Clock-type gauges for
rings. Sulphuric acid The liquid (electrolyte) used in a measuring intake tract vacuum. Used for
Rebound damping A means of controlling the lead-acid battery. Poisonous and extremely carburettor synchronisation on multi-cylinder
oscillation of a suspension unit spring after it has corrosive. engines.
been compressed. Resists the spring’s natural Surface grinding (lapping) Process to correct a Valve A device through which the flow of liquid,
tendency to bounce back after being compressed. warped gasket face, commonly used on cylinder gas or vacuum may be stopped, started or
Rectifier Device for converting the ac output of heads. regulated by a moveable part that opens, shuts
an alternator into dc for battery charging. or partially obstructs one or more ports or
Reed valve An induction system commonly
used on two-stroke engines.
T passageways. The intake and exhaust valves in
the cylinder head are of the poppet type.
Regulator Device for maintaining the charging Tapered-roller bearing Tapered inner race of
Valve clearance The clearance between the
voltage from the generator or alternator within a caged needle rollers and separate tapered outer
valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
race. Examples of taper roller bearings can be
specified range. rocker arm or tappet/follower. The valve
Relay A electrical device used to switch heavy found on steering heads.
clearance is measured when the valve is closed.
current on and off by using a low current auxiliary Tappet A cylindrical component which transmits The correct clearance is important - if too small
circuit. motion from the cam to the valve stem, either the valve won’t close fully and will burn out,
Resistance Measured in ohms. An electrical directly or via a pushrod and rocker arm. Also whereas if too large noisy operation will result.
component’s ability to pass electrical current. called a cam follower. Valve lift The amount a valve is lifted off its seat
RON (Research Octane Number) A measure of TCS Traction Control System. An electronically- by the camshaft lobe.
a fuel’s resistance to knock, controlled system which senses wheel spin and Valve timing The exact setting for the opening
rpm revolutions per minute. reduces engine speed accordingly. and closing of the valves in relation to piston
Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out TDC Top Dead Centre denotes that the piston is position.
movement) of a wheel or shaft as it’s rotated. at its highest point in the cylinder. Vernier caliper A precision measuring
The amount a shaft rotates 'out-of-true'. The out- Thread-locking compound Solution applied to instrument that measures inside and outside
of-round condition of a rotating part. fastener threads to prevent slackening. Select dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
type to suit application. micrometer, but more convenient.
S Thrust washer A washer positioned between
two moving components on a shaft. For
VIN Vehicle Identification Number. Term for the
bike’s engine and frame numbers.
example, between gear pinions on gearshaft. Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) A Timing chain See Cam Chain. resistance to flow.
standard for the viscosity of a fluid. Timing light Stroboscopic lamp for carrying out
Sealant A liquid or paste used to prevent Volt A unit for expressing electrical “ pressure” in
ignition timing checks with the engine running. a circuit. Volts = current x ohms.
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in Top-end A description of an engine’s cylinder
conjunction with a gasket.
Service limit Term for the point where a
block, head and valve gear components.
Torque Turning or twisting force about a shaft.
W
component is no longer useable and must be Torque setting A prescribed tightness specified Water pump A mechanically-driven device for
renewed. by the motorcycle manufacturer to ensure that the moving coolant around the engine.
Shaft drive A method of transmitting drive from bolt or nut is secured correctly. Undertightening Watt A unit for expressing electrical power.
the transmission to the rear wheel. can result in the bolt or nut coming loose or a Watts = volts x current.
Shell bearings Plain bearings consisting of two surface not being sealed. Overtightening can Wear limit see Service limit
shell halves. Most often used as big-end and result in stripped threads, distortion or damage to Wet liner A liquid-cooled engine design where
main bearings in a four-stroke engine. Often the component being retained. the pistons run in liners which are directly
called bearing inserts. Torx key A six-point wrench. surrounded by coolant (see illustration).
Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust the Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied to a
clearance or relative positions between two wire insulator to distinguish that wire from
parts. For example, shims inserted into or under another one with the same colour insulator. For
tappets or followers to control valve clearances. example, Br/W is often used to denote a brown
Clearance is adjusted by changing the thickness insulator with a white tracer.
of the shim. Trail A feature of steering geometry. Distance
Short-circuit An electrical condition where from the steering head axis to the tyre’s central
current shorts to earth (ground) bypassing the contact point.
circuit components. Triple clamps The cast components which
Skimming Process to correct warpage or repair extend from the steering head and support the
a damaged surface, eg on brake discs or drums. fork stanchions or tubes. Often called fork yokes.
Slide-hammer A special puller that screws into Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by
or hooks onto a component such as a shaft or exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.
bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the shaft Normally used to increase the power output from
bottoms against the end of the shaft to knock the a given engine displacement. Wet liner arrangement
component free. TWI Abbreviation for Tyre Wear Indicator.
Small-end bearing The bearing in the upper Indicates the location of the tread depth indicator Wheelbase Distance from the centre of the front
end of the connecting rod at its joint with the bars on tyres. wheel to the centre of the rear wheel.
gudgeon pin. Wiring harness or loom Describes the electrical
Spading Damage to camshaft lobes or bearing
journals shown as pitting of the working surface. U wires running the length of the motorcycle and
enclosed in tape or plastic sheathing. Wiring
Specific gravity (SG) The state of charge of the Universal joint or U-joint (UJ) A double-pivoted coming off the main harness is usually referred to
electrolyte in a lead-acid battery. A measure of connection for transmitting power from a driving as a sub harness.
the electrolyte’s density compared with water. to a driven shaft through an angle. Typically Woodruff key A key of semi-circular or square
Straight-cut gears Common type gear used on found in shaft drive assemblies. section used to locate a gear to a shaft. Often
gearbox shafts and for oil pump and water pump Unsprung weight Anything not supported by used to locate the alternator rotor on the
drives. the bike’s suspension (ie the wheel, tyres, crankshaft.
Stanchion The inner sliding part of the front brakes, final drive and bottom (moving) part of Wrist pin Another name for gudgeon or piston
forks, held by the yokes. Often called a fork tube. the suspension). pin.
REF«44 \ t j \ 6 e X ________________________
Note: References throughout this index relate to Chapter*page number

A Camchain tensioner - 2*10


Camshafts
Cylinder compression
c h e c k -1*18, REF»36
removal, inspection and installation -2 *1 0 gauge - REF*12
specifications - 2*2 Cylinder block
Air filter element - 1»14
Carburettors removal, inspection and installation - 2*20
Air filter housing - 4«5
disassembly, cleaning and inspection - 4*8 specifications - 2*3
Alternator
fuel level adjustment - 4*14 Cylinder head
specifications - 9»1
idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - 4»17 disassembly, inspection and
testing, removal and installation - 9»21
reassembly and float height check - 4*13 reassembly-2 *1 6
Antifreeze - 0»10, “\*2
removal and installation - 4»6 removal and installation - 2«14
overhaul - 4*7 specifications - 2*1
specifications - 4*1
B synchronization - 1 *9
Centerstand - 8*12
Battery
Chains
breaking and joining techniques - REF*18
D
charging - 9»3 camchain - 2*41
check- 1*16, REF*37 drive chain - 0*11,1 »6, 7«18 Daily (pre-ride) checks - 0*10 et seq
inspection and maintenance - 9*2 sizes - REF*19 Dial gauge (DTI)-REF»12
specifications - 9*1 Charging, battery - 9*3 Dimensions, model - REF»1
Bearings Charging system Diodes, junction box - 9*5
fault finding - REF*16 specifications - 9»1 Discs, brake - 7*7
main and connecting rod - 2*37, 2*39 testing - 9»20 Drive chain
rear suspension linkage - 6*11 Chemicals - REF»21 check and adjustment - 0»11,1 «6
removal and installation Choke cable lubrication - 1 »6
; techniques - REF*14 check and adjustment —1*13 removal, cleaning and installation - 7*18
steering head - 1»15,1 *25, 6*6 removal, installation and Drive sprockets
swingarm - 6*12, 6*13 adjustment - 4*16 coupling/rubber damper, rear - 7*19
types and markings - REF*16 Circlips - REF»6 removal and installation - 7*19
wheel -1*2 5, 7*15 Clean air system - 1*8 specifications, rear - 7*2
Bleeding, brakes - 7*12 Clutch
Bodywork - 8*1 et seq cable replacement - 2*28
Bolts - REF«5
Brake fluid
check and adjustment - 0»12
removal, inspection and installation - 2*29 E
level check - 0*11 specifications - 2*4
replacement -1 *24 Clock - 9*11
type - 1 *2 Electrical system - 9*1 et seq
Coil alternator - 9*21
Brake light ignition HT - 5*4 battery - 1*16, 9*2, 9«3
bulb replacement - 9*8 ignition pickup - 5*5 brake light - 9*9
switches - 9*9 Component locations - 1*4 charging system - 9*20
Brakes - 6*1 et seq Coolant continuity checks - REF*38
bleeding -7*1 2 change - 1*21 fault finding - 9*2, REF*36, REF-38
calipers - 7*2 filter-1 *2 3 fuel level gauge/lights —9*11
discs - 7*7 level - 0*10 fuses - 9*4
general check - 1*12 reservoir-3 *3 ground (earth) checks - REF*39
hose replacement -1*25, 7*12 temperature sensor and gauge - 3*4 handlebar switches - 9*14, 9*15
pad replacement - 7*6 type and capacity - 1*2 headlight - 9*7
pad thickness check -1*11 Cooling system - 3*1 et seq horn -9 *1 6
master cylinders - 7*9, 7»10 fan and thermostatic switch - 3*3 ignition main (key) switch - 9*14
seal replacement - 1»24 oil cooler - 3*9 instruments - 9*10, 9*11
specifications - 7*1 pipes - 3*8 junction box - 9*4
Bulbs radiator - 3*3, 3*6 lighting system - 9*6
headlight - 9*7 servicing - 1 »20 neutral switch - 9*15
instrument and warning light - 9*13 specifications - 3*1 oil pressure switch - 9*13
license plate light - 9*8 thermostat - 3*4, 3*6 regulator/rectifier - 9*22
ratings see wiring diagrams water pump - 3*6 short-circuit checks - REF»39
tail light/brake light - 9*8 Connecting rods sidestand switch - 9*16
turn signals - 9*8 bearings - 2*37 specifications - 9*1
removal, inspection and installation - 2*39 starter motor-9 *1 7
Conversion factors - REF*20 starter relay - 9*16
C Coupling/rubber damper, rear wheel - 7*19
Crankcase - 2*34, 2*37
tail light - 9*8
turn signals - 9*8, 9*9
Crankshaft voltage checks - REF«38
Caliper, brake - 7*2 removal, inspection and installation - 2*37 wiring diagrams - 9*23 et seq
Camchain and guides - 2*41 specifications - 2*3 Electronic ignition system - 5*1 et seq
Index rer^#
-------------------
Engine - 2*1 etseq Front forks
break-in procedure - 2*48 adjustment - 6*14 J
camchain and guides - 2*41 disassembly, inspection and
camchain tensioner - 2*10 Junction box - 9*4
reassembly -6 *3
camshafts and lifters - 2*10 oil replacement - 1*22
clean air system - 1*8 oil type, capacity and level - 1*2
connecting rod bearings - 2*37
crankcase - 2*34, 2*37
removal and installation - 6*2
specifications - 6*1 L
crankshaft and main bearings - 2*37 Front wheel
cylinder block - 2*20 Legal checks - 0*12
bearings -1*2 5, 7*15 License plate
cylinder compression removal and installation - 7*14
check - 1•18, REF*36 bulb replacement - 9*8
Fuel gauge (E models) - 9*11 check - 9*6
cylinder head - 2*14 Fuel level warning system
initial start-up after overhaul - 2*48 Lifters, camshaft - 2*10
(D models) - 9*11 Lighting system check - 9*6
number - 0*9 Fuel pump - 4*4
oil cooler - 3*9 Lubricants, general - REF*21
Fuel system Lubrication
oil pan - 2*25
carburettors - 1*9, 4*6 to 4*17 drive chain - 1*6
oil pressure check - 2*26
check and filter cleaning -1 *1 7 engine - 0*10, 1*13
oil pressure relief valves - 2*27
hose replacement - 1*25 general -1 *1 2
oil pump -2 *2 6
specifications - 4*1 oil pump -2 *2 6
main bearings -2 *3 7
Fuel tank - 4*2 specifications - 1*2, 2*4
piston rings - 2*23
pistons - 2*22 Fuses speedometer drive gear - 1 *25
removal and installation - 2*6 check and replacement - 9*4, 9*5 steering head bearings - 1*25
specifications - 1*1, 2*1 ratings - 9*2 wheel bearings - 1*25
valve clearances -1 *1 8
valve cover - 2*9
valves - 2*15, 2*16
Engine oil G M
oil and filter change -1 *1 3
oil level check - 0*10 Gaskets - REF* 17 Main bearings - 2*37
type and capacity - 1*2 Gauge, fuel (E models) - 9*11 Maintenance schedule - 1*3
Evaporative emission control system Gearbox see Transmission Master cylinder, brake - 7*9, 7*10
check - 1*11 Micrometers - REF*9
Exhaust system Mirrors - 8*9
fastener tightness check -1 *1 7 Model history - 0*7
removal and installation - 4*17
Expansion tank, coolant - 3*3
H Model identification - 0*9
MOT test - REF*22 et seq
Handlebar switches - 9*14, 9*15 Mudguards -8*11
Handlebars - 6*2
Headlight
F aim -9 *7
bulb replacement - 9*7 N
check - 9*6
Fairing removal and installation - 9*7 Neutral light
lower section - 8*7 Horn - 9*16 check - 9*6
middle sections (E models) - 8*8 Hoses, clamping and fitting - REF* 19 switch - 9*15
upper section - 8*9 HT coils, ignition - 5*4 Nuts - REF*5
windscreen - 8*8
Fan, cooling - 3*3
Fasteners
tightness check -1 *1 7
types - REF*5
O
Fault finding - 5*3, 9*2, REF*28 etseq IC ignitor - 5*7 Oil cooler - 3*9
Feeler gauges - REF*9 Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - 4*17 Oil, engine
Fenders - 8*11 Ignition main (key) switch - 9*14 oil and filter change -1 *1 3
Filters Ignition system - 5*1 et seq oil level check - 0*10
air - 1*14 check - 5*3 type and capacity -1 *2
coolant - 1 *23 HT coils - 5*4 Oil, front forks
engine/transmission oil - 1*13 IC ignitor - 5*7 replacement - 1 *22
fuel -1 *1 7 pickup coils - 5*5 type, capacity and level - 1 *2
Footpegs and brackets —8*11 specifications - 5*1 Oil pan - 2*25
Fork oil timing rotor - 5*6 Oil pressure
replacement -1 *22 Ignition timing - 5*1 gauge - REF*12
type, capacity and level - 1*2 Instrument cluster relief valves - 2*26
Frame -8 *1 , 8*12 bulbs -9*1 3 switch - 9*13
Frame number - 0 9 meters and gauges - 9*11 Oil pump - 2*26
Frame rear section (D models) - 8*12 removal and installation - 9*10 Oil seals - REF* 16
ref*46 Index

P Snap rings - REF*6


Spare parts buying - 0*9
Thermostat
housing, removal and installation - 3*6
Spark plugs removal, check and installation - 3»4
replacement - 1 *22 specifications - 3«1 j
Pads, brake
servicing - 1 »7 Thermostatic switch, fan - 3*3
replacement - 7*6
type and gap - 1*1 Thread locking and sealing - REF*8
thickness check - 1*11
Specifications Thread repair - REF*8
Parts buying - 0 9
brakes -7*1 Throttle cables and grip - 4*14
Pickup coil, ignition - 5*5
carburettors - 4«1 Throttle operation/grip freeplay check and
Pistons
clutch - 2*4 adjustment -1 »8
removal, inspection and installation - 2*22
cooling system - 3*1 Timing, ignition - 5*1 |
rings - 2»23
electrical system - 9*1 Timing, valve - 2»13
specifications - 2*3
engine - 1*1, 2«1 Timing rotor, ignition - 5*6
Plastigauge - REF*11
ignition system - 5*1 Tires j
Pressure, engine oil - 2*26
suspension - 6»1 checks-0 *1 3 |
Pressure, tyre - 0*13, 1»2
tires-0 *1 3 ,1 *2 , 7*2 general information and fitting - 7«18
Pressure cap, radiator - 3*3
torque settings - 1«2, 2*4, 3*1, 4»2, 5*1, sizes - 7*2 \
Pressure relief valves, engine - 2*27
6»2, 7«2, 9#2 Tools - REF*2 et seq
Pump
transmission - 2*4 Torque settings - 1»2, 2*4, 3*1, 4*2, 5*1,
fuel - 4*4
oil - 2«26
wheels - 7*2 6*2, 7«2, 9*2 j
Speedometer Torque wrenches - REF*13
check - 9«11 Transmission |
gear lubrication -1 *25 shafts, disassembly, inspection and
R removal and installation - 9*10
Split pins - REF»5
reassembly - 2»44
shafts, removal and installation - 2*42
Sprockets shift drum and forks - 2*42
Radiator - 3*6 check and replacement - 7*19 shift shaft/external shift mechanism - 2«33 |
Radiator cap - 3*3 coupling/rubber damper, rear - 7*19 specifications - 2*4 J
Rear arm (swingarm) specifications - 7*2 Turn signal |
bearings - 6,12, 6*13 Starter motor bulb replacement - 9*8
removal and installation - 6*12 disassembly, inspection and circuit check and relay - 9*9
Rear shock absorber reassembly - 9*17 removal and installation - 9*9 |
adjustment - 6*14 relay - 9*16
removal and installation - 6«10 removal and installation - 9*17 1
specifications - 6«1 specifications - 9«2
Rear shock linkage - 6*11
Rear wheel
Steering, check —0*11
Steering stem and bearings
V
bearings - 1*25, 7*15 bearing check and adjustment - 1*15
removal and installation - 7*15 bearing lubrication - 1*25 Valve cover - 2*9
Regulator/rectifier - 9*22 removal, inspection and installation - 6*6 Valves, engine
Relay Storage - REF*26 et seq clearances -1 *1 8
junction box - 9»6 Sump - 2*25 disassembly, inspection and
starter motor - 9*16 Suspension reassembly - 2*16 I
turn signal - 9*9 adjustment - 6»14 servicing ~2« 15
Rings, piston - 2*23 check-0*11,1*17 specifications - 2*3
specifications - 6»1 Vernier caliper - REF*10
Swingarm removal and installation - 6*12 VIN - 0*9 |
S Swingarm bearings
check - 6*12
Voltage regulator/rectifier - 9*22

replacement - 6*13
Safety-0«8, 0*12, REF*4
Screws - REF«5
Sealants - REF»17
W
Seat - 8*10
Servicing schedule - 1 *3 Washers - REF»5
Shift drum and forks - 2»42 Water pump - 3*6
Shift shaft/external shift mechanism - 2*33 Tachometer Weights, model - REF*1
Shock absorber, rear check-9*11 Wheels
adjustment -6 *1 4 removal and installation - 9*10 alignment - 7«13
removal and installation - 6*10 Tail light bearing lubrication - 1*25
specifications - 6«1 bulb replacement - 9*8 bearing replacement - 7*15
Shock linkage, rear —6*11 check - 9*6 check - 1*16
Side covers - 8*10 Tank, fuel - 4*2 inspection and repair - 7*13
Sidestand Temperature gauge, coolant - 9*11 removal and installation - 7*14, 7*15
removal and installation - 8»12 Temperature sensor, coolant - 3*4 specifications - 7»2
switch - 9*16 Tensioner, cam chain - 2*10 Wiring diagrams - 9*23 et seq
Spark Plugs Condition Chart

Electrode gap check - use a wire type gauge for best results. Electrode gap adjustm ent - bend the side electrode using the
correct tool.

Normal condition - A brown, tan or grey firing end indicates that Ash deposits - Light brown deposits encrusted on the electrodes
the engine is in good condition and that the plug type is correct. and insulator, leading to misfire and hesitation. Caused by
excessive amounts of oil in the combustion chamber or poor
quality fuel/oil.

Carbon fouling - Dry, black sooty deposits leading to misfire and Oil fouling - Wet oily deposits leading to misfire and weak spark.
weak spark. Caused by an over-rich fuel/air mixture, faulty choke Caused by oil leakage past piston rings or valve guides (4-stroke
operation or blocked air filter. engine), or excess lubricant (2-stroke engine).

O verheating - A blistered white insulator and glazed electrodes. Worn plug - Worn electrodes will cause poor starting in damp or
Caused by ignition system fault, incorrect fuel, or cooling system cold conditions and will also waste fuel.
fault.

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