First Travel Abroad
Rizal's first travel abroad is described as a "Secret departure with a secret mission" It was
secret departure because among the family members, it was only his brother Paciano, his
second father, who was aware of the travel. In fact, he was behind the planning of this
trip of Rizal to Spain. On the other hand, it was a voyage with a secret mission because
his main purpose in going abroad was to study the life, government, economics of
Europe, particularly Spain to prepare himself in his duty to free his people from
persecution.
This secret mission was likewise disclosed by Paciano in his letter to his younger brother
dated Manila, May 20,1892. Rizal's departure for Spain was kept secret to avoid
detection by the Spanish authorities and the friars. As such, Rizal used the name Jose
Mercado who was a cousin from Binan, Laguna.
1. Philippines to Singapore
- On May 3, 1882, Rizal departed on board the Spanish streamer Salvadora bound for
Singapore. Rizal played chess with his fellow passengers who were much older than him.
• On May 8,1882, while the steamer was approaching Singapore, Rizal saw a
beautiful island and he was fascinated by its scenic beauty which reminded him of
the "Talim Island with the Susong Dalaga (Mount Tagapo)"
• On May 9, 1882, the Spanish streamer Salvadora docked at Singapore and at
Hotel de la Paz, Rizal registered here and spent two days on a sightseeing soiree
of the city, which was a colony of England.
While in Singapore, a certain Donato Lecha, the ship captain from Asturias, Spain
befriended Rizal who in turn described him as an affable man, "much more refined than
his other countrymen and colleagues that I have met."
2. Singapore to Sri Lanka ( Ceylon)
• In Singapore, Rizal transferred to another ship Djemnah, a French steamer, which
left Singapore for Europe on May 11, 1882. On May 17, 1882-Djemnah reached
Point Galle, a seacoast town in southern Ceylon (now Sri Lanka).
Rizal wrote on his travel diary: "The general appearance of Point Galle is picturesque but
lonely and quiet and at the same time sad".
Rizal was impressed by Colombo, capital of Ceylon, because of its scenic beauty and
elegant buildings. He records, "Colombo is more beautiful, smart and elegant than
Singapore, Point Galle and Manila".
3. Asia to Europe
• From a distance, between Arabian Sea and Red Sea, Rizal sighted the barren coast
of Africa, which he called an "inhospitable land but famous." Djemnah docked in
Aden, Yemen which Rizal described as a city hotter than Manila.
• Rizal was amused to see the camels, for the first time. He also saw the City of
Suez at the Red Sea terminal. He was impressed of its beautiful moonlight which
reminded him of Calamba and his family. He saw the famous Suez Canal, built by
Ferdinand de Lesseps, a French diplomat-engineer. The canal was inaugurated on
November 17, 1869. He likewise saw Port Said, the Mediterranean terminal of
the Suez Canal.
4. Italy (Naples) and France (Marseilles)
• On June 11, 1882, Dr. Jose Rizal reached Naples. He was pleased on this Italian
city because of its business activity, its lively people, and its panoramic beauty. On
the night of June 12, 1882, the steamer docked at the French harbor of
Marseilles. Rizal visited the famous Chateau d'If, where Dantes, hero of the Count
of Monte Cristo, was imprisoned. Rizal stayed for two and a half days in
Marseilles.
5. Spain (Barcelona-Madrid)
In the afternoon of May 15, 1882, Rizal left Marseilles by train for the last lap of his trip
to Spain. He crossed the Pyrenees and stopped for a day at the frontier town of Port
Bou. On June 16, 1882- Rizal finally reached his destination, Barcelona. Rizal's first
impression of Barcelona, the greatest city of Cataluna and Spain's second largest city,
was unfavourable. The most famous street in Barcelona was called Las Ramblas.
" Rizal's first article entitled, Amor Patrio (Love of Country), a nationalistic essay, was
written on Spain's soil under his pen-name Laong Laan and appeared in print in Diariong
Tagalog on August 20, 1882. It was published in two text namely: Spanish and Tagalog;
the Spanish text was the one originally written by Rizal in Barcelona, whereas the
Tagalog text was a Tagalog translation made by Marcelo H. del Pilar.
• Rizal sent this article to Basilio Teodoro Moran, his friend in Manila and the
publisher of Diariong Tagalog. Diariong Tagalog was the first Manila bilingual
newspaper (both in Spanish and Tagalog).
• While in Barcelona, Rizal received sad news about the cholera that was ravaging
Manila and the provinces according to Paciano's letter, dated September 15,
1882. Another sad news from the Philippines was the chatty letter of Chengoy
recounting the unhappiness of Leonor Rivera.
• In one of his letters dated May 26, 1882, Paciano advised his younger brother to
finish the medical course in Madrid. Rizal left Barcelona in the fall of 1882 and
established himself in Madrid, the capital of Spain.
• Rizal left Barcelona for Madrid and studied medicine at the Universidad Central
de Madrid where he earned his Licentiate in Medicine.
Life in Madrid
On November 3, 1882, Rizal enrolled in the Universidad Central de Madrid (Central
University of Madrid) in two courses namely: Medicine and Philosophy and Letters.
He likewise enrolled in the Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando where he studied
painting and sculpture. He made a clay structure titled "The wounded gladiator" which
he started molding in 1884.
He also did some Literary Activities while enrolled in the said school.
• Rizal was confronted with several challenges like hectic schedule, home sickness
and loneliness.
• During the summer twilights, Rizal sipped coffee and fraternized with the
students from Cuba, Mexico and Argentina in Antigua Cafe de Levante.
On Saturday evenings, Rizal visited the home of Don Pablo Ortiga y Rey who lived with
his son (Rafael)and daughter (Consuelo).
Shortly after his arrival in Madrid in 1882, Rizal joined Circulo Hispano-Filipino (Hispano-
Philippine Circle), a society of Spaniards and Filipinos.
Upon the request of the members of this society, Rizal wrote the poem Me Piden Versos
(They Ask Me For Verses) which he personally declaimed during the New Years Eve
reception of the Madrid Filipinos held in the evening of December: 31, 1882 it was in
this sad poem that Rizal poured out the cry of his agonizing heart.
• Rizal economized on his living expenses, and with the money he saved, he
purchased books from a second-hand book store owned by a certain Senor Roses.
• Among the books he bought from the shop were Beecher Stowe's Uncle Tom's
Cabin and Eugene Sue's The Wandering Jew. Both books aroused Rizal's
sympathy for the oppressed and unfortunate people.
• Rizal's only extravagance was investing a few pesetas for a lottery ticket in every
draw of the Madrid Lottery. He spent his leisure time reading and writing at his
boarding house, attending the reunions of Filipino students at the house of the
Paterno brothers (Antonio, Maximo and Pedro) and practicing fencing and
shooting at the gymnasium.
Rizal was impressed by the way the Spanish Mason openly and freely criticized the
government policies and lambasted the friars, which could not be done in Philippines.
• On March 1883, Rizal joined the Masonic lodge called Acacia in Madrid. Rizal's
reason for becoming a mason was to secure Freemansory's aid in his fight against
the friars in the Philippines. Later, Rizal transferred in Lodge Solidaridad (Madrid)
where he became a Master Mason on November 15,1890. On February 15, 1892,
Rizal was awarded the diploma as Master Mason by Le Grand Orient de France in
Paris.
Rizal's only Masonic writing deals on Science, Virtue and Labor which was the topic in his
lecture delivered in 1889 at Lodge Solidaridad, Madrid.
• After Rizal's departure for Spain, things turned from bad, to worse in Calamba
such as: harvests of rice and sugarcane failed on account of drought and locusts
• the manager of the Dominican-owned hacienda increased the rentals of the lands
• a dreadful pest killed most of the turkeys. Due to hard times in Calamba, the
monthly allowances of Rizal in Madrid were late in arrival and there were times
when they never arrived. This condition severely affected the economic condition
of Rizal that on June 24, 1884, a touching incident in his life in Madrid occurred
wherein he was broke and was unable to take breakfast. This however did not
deter Rizal from attending his class at the university, participating in the contest in
Greek language and even winning the gold medal.
Visiting Paris for the First Time (1883)
During his first summer vacation in Madrid, Rizal went to Paris, capital of France from
June 17 to August 20, 1883. Rizal was accommodated in Hotel de Paris which was
located on 37 Rue de Maubange but later, he moved to a cheaper hotel on 124 Rue de
Rennes in the Latin Quarter.
• Almost everything was expensive in Paris like food, drinks, theatre, tickets,
laundry, hotel accommodations, and transportation.I t was difficult to for Rizal to
live in Paris considering his meagre allowance. He once commented in a letter to
his family" Paris is the costliest capital in Europe."
Rizal observed Dr. Nicaise treating his patients in Laennec Hospital. In Lariboisiere
Hospital, he had observed the examination of different diseases of women.
Back to Madrid
On the evening of June 25, 1884, a banquet was sponsored by the Filipino community to
celebrate the double victory of the Filipino artist in the National Exposition of Fine Arts
in Madrid. They were Luna's Spoliarium winning the first prize and Hidalgo's Christian
Virgins Exposed to the Populace (Virgenes Cristianas Expuestas al Populacho) which won
second prize.
• From November 20 to 22, 1884, the serene city of Madrid exploded in bloody
riots by the students of the Central University. These student demonstrations
were caused by the address of Dr. Miguel Morayta, professor of history, at the
opening ceremonies of the academic year on November 20, in which he
proclaimed "the freedom of science and the teacher" The Rector, who also took
the side of the students, was forced to resign and was replaced by Doctor Creus,
"a very unpopular man, disliked by everybody". Rizal wrote recounting the
tumultuous riots to his family on November 26, 1884.
• Rizal completed his medical course in Spain on June 21, 1884.
He was conferred the degree of Licentiate in Medicine by the Universidad Central de
Madrid. The next academic year (1884-1885), Rizal studied and passed all subjects
leading to the degree of Doctor of Medicine but he did not present the thesis required
for graduation nor paid the corresponding fees, thus was not awarded his Doctor's
diploma. On the other hand, on June 19, 1885 on his 24th birthday, he was awarded the
degree of Licentiate in Philosophy and Letters by the Universidad Central de Madrid
with the rating of "Excellent" or (Sobresaliente).
It was on November 26, 1884 when Rizal wrote a letter to his family stating "My
doctorate is not of very much value to me because although it is useful to a university
professor, yet, I believe they(Dominican friars) will never appoint me as such in the
College of Santo Tomas. I say the same thing of philosophy and letters which may serve
also for a professorship, but I doubt it if the Dominican fathers will grant it to me."
Continuation of Medical Training in France and Germany (1885-1887)
On November 1885, Rizal went back to Paris and later went to Heidelberg, Germany, in
order to specialize in ophthalmology. Rizal chose this branch of medicine because he
wanted to cure his mother's eye ailment. He continued his education at University of
Paris and the University of Heidelberg where he earned his 2nd Doctorate degree.
• It was this time when his interests became varied: Ophthalmology, sculpture,
painting, agriculture, education, history, poetry, journalism, and theater.
• He also showed interest in the areas of architecture, economics, ethnology,
anthropology, sociology, dramatics, martial arts, fencing and pistol shooting.
• In Paris, Rizal was with his friend, Maximo Viola, a medical student and a member
of a rich family of San Miguel, Bulacan and with Senor Eusebio Corominas, editor
of the newspaper La Publicidad. He made a crayon sketch of Don Miguel
Morayta, owner of La Publicidad and a statesman. He also gave Editor Corominas
an article on the Carolines Question, a controversial issue, for publication.
• Rizal stayed in Paris for about four months, He worked as an assistant of Dr. Louis
de Weckert (1852-1906) who was the leading French Ophthalmologist
- Rizal had associated with a fellow Filipino, Juan Luna, who was a painter and engaged
to Paz Pardo de Tavera, a pretty and rich girl. It was at the studio of Luna, where Rizal
spent many happy hours. Rizal helped Luna by posing as model in several paintings.
In Luna's canvas "The Death of Cleopatra," Rizal posed as an Egyptian priest. In another
of Luna's great paintings, "The Blood Compact," he posed as Sikatuna, with Trinidad
Pardo de Tavera taking the role of Legazpi.
• On November 27, 1878, Rizal told Enrique de Lete that he "learned the solfeggio,
the piano, the voice culture in one month and a half". By sheer determination and
constant practice, Rizal came to play the flute fairly well. He was a flutist in
various impromptu reunions of Filipinos in Paris. He wrote a patriotic song
entitled Alin Mang Lahi (Any Race) which asserts that any race aspires for
freedom. Later, he composed La Deportacion (Deportation), a sad poem which he
composed in Dapitan during his exile.
On February 1, 1886, Rizal hesitantly left Paris, France for , Heidelberg, Germany and on
February 3, 1886, he arrived in Heidelberg, a historic city in Germany famous for its old
university and romantic surroundings.
• Rizal joined the Chess Player's Club wherein the students made him as a member
because of being a good chess player.
Rizal worked for Dr. Otto Becker, a distinguished German ophthalmologist in the
University Eye Hospital. The 25 year old Rizal completed his eye specialization under the
renowned Prof. Otto Becker
• In the spring of 1886, Rizal was fascinated by the blooming flowers along the cool
banks of the Neckar River. Among them was his favorite flower-the light blue
"forget-me-not"
Because of this, he wrote a fine poem "A Las Flores de Heidelberg" (To the Flowers of
Heidelberg) on April 22, 1886. This poem is both an evocation and a prayer for the
welfare of his native land and the unification of common values between East and West
• Rizal spent a three-month summer vacation in a mountainous village near
Heidelberg called Wilhelmsfeld. He stayed in the house of Dr. Karl Ullmer, a kind
Protestant pastor, who became his good friend and admirer. On June 25, 1886,
Rizal ended his holiday at Pastor Ullmer's home.
• On May 29, 1886, Rizal wrote from Munich (Muchen) to Friedrich (Fritz), son of
Pastor Ullmer. On July 31, 1886, he wrote his first letter in German, which he had
improved after his stay with the Ullmers, to Professor Blumentritt, Director of the
Ateneo of Leitmeritz, Austria. He likewise sent a book entitled Aritmetica
(Arithmetic) which was published in two languages -Spanish and Tagalog-by the
University of Santo Tomas Press in 1868. The author was Rufino Baltazar
Hernandez, a native of Santa Cruz, Laguna. He had also joined in the fifth
centenary celebration of the famous University of Heidelberg on August 6, 1886.
Other Activities of Rizal
o Rizal joined and became officers in various prestigious organizations
abroad. One Association he joined was the INTERNATIONAL
ASSOCIATION OF FILIPINOLOGISTS it aimed to study the Philippines
from the scientific and historical point of view. The officers were:
President: Ferdinand Blumentritt (Austrian)
Vice -Pres: Edward Plauchut (French)
Counsellor: Dr. Reinhold Rost (Anglo-German)
Counsellor: Dr. Antonio Ma. Regidor (Filipino-Spanish)
Secretary: Dr. Jose Rizal (Filipino)
o The holding of Inaugural convention did not materialize because the
French government discouraged the holding of conferences by private
organization for the period of international exposition.
Leipzig and Dresden (Still in Germany)
On August 9, 1886, Rizal left Heidelberg and on August 14, 1886 he boarded by a train.
He arrived in Leipzig and befriended Professor Friedrich Ratzel, a famous German
historian. He also befriended Dr. Hans Meyer, a German anthropologist.
• While in Leipzig, Rizal translated Schiller's William Tell from German into Tagalog
so that the Filipinos might know the story of that champion of Swiss
independence. He also translated into Tagalog for his nephews and niece Hans
Andersen's Fairy Tales.
• Rizal found out that the cost of living in Leipzig was cheapest in Europe so that he
stayed two months and a half. Because of his knowledge of German, Spanish, and
other European languages, Rizal worked as proof reader in a publisher's firm.
On October 29, 1886, Rizal left Leipzig for Dresden where he met Dr. Adolph B. Meyer,
Director of the Anthropological and Ethnological Museum.
• Rizal heard Mass in a Catholic church which impressed him very much, for he
wrote on his diary: "Truly I have never in my life heard a Mass whose music had
greater sublimity and intonation." In the morning of November 1, 1886, Rizal left
Dresden by train reaching Berlin in the evening.
In Berlin, Germany
Rizal was enchanted by Berlin because of its scientific atmosphere and the absence of
racial prejudice. He met for the first time Dr. Feodor Jagor, a celebrated German
scientist-traveler and author of Travels in the Philippines, a book which he read and
admired during his student days in Manila. Dr. Jagor introduced Rizal to the prominent
scientists namely: Dr. Rudolf Virchow, a famous German anthropologist as well as to his
son, Dr. Hans Virchow who is a professor of Descriptive Anatomy; to Dr. W. Joest, a
noted German geographer; Dr. Ernest Schweigger (1830-1905), famous German
ophthalmologist where Rizal also worked.
• Rizal also became a member of the Anthropological Society, the Ethnological
Society, and the Geographical Society of Berlin, upon the recommendation of Dr.
Jagor and Dr. Meyer.
Rizal wrote Tagalische Verkunst (Tagalog Metrical Art) a scholarly paper in German
which he read before the society in April 1887 and such paper was published by the
society in the same year, and elicited favorable comments from all scientific quarters.
Riza lived in Berlin, famous capital of unified Germany for five reasons:
o to gain further knowledge of ophthalmology
o to further his studies of sciences and languages
o to observe the economic and political conditions of the German nation
o to associate with famous German scientists and scholars
o to publish his novel, Noli Me Tangere.
• In order to master the idiomatic intricacies of the French language, Rizal was
taught by Madame Lucie Cerdole, his professor of French. He had enjoyed
promenading, sipping beer in the city's inns and talking with the friendly
Berlinersat Unter den Linden, the most popular boulevard of Berlin.
• One of Rizal's important letters written was on March 11, 1886 while he was in
Germany that was addressed to his sister, Trinidad. In this letter, Rizal expressed
his high regard and admiration for German womanhood. The German woman, said
Rizal to his sister, is serious, diligent, educated, and friendly. She is not gossipy,
frivolous and quarrelsome. Aside from the German women, Rizal admired the
German customs which he observed well.
• Another significant event was the publication of Rizal' Noli Me Tangere in Berlin
in 1887.
1. Dresden, Germany to Teschen, Czech Republic
• On May 11, 1887, Rizal and Viola left Berlin by train and arrive in Dresden, one of
the best cities in Germany. He was deeply impressed in a painting known as
Prometheus Bound. Their next stopover after leaving Dresden was in Teschen,
now called Decin, Czech Republic.
2. Decin, Czech Republic to Leitmeritz, Bohemia, Czech Republic
• At 1:30pm of May 13, 1887, the train, with Rizal and Viola on board, arrived at
the railroad station of Leitmeritz, Bohemia.
For the first time, the two great scholars, Rizal and Blumentritt, met in person. Rizal
described Professor Ferdinand Blumentritt as a kind-hearted, old Austrian professor.
From May 13 to May 16, 1887, Rizal and Viola stayed in Leitmeritz where they met the
Burgomaster or town mayor.
• Rizal spoke extemporaneously in fluent German to the officers and members of
Tourist's Club of Leitmeritz of which Blumentritt was the secretary. Prominent
personalities like Dr. Carlos Czepelak, a renowned scientist of Europe and
Professor Robert Klutschak, an eminent naturalist were also members. On May
16, 1887 at 9:45 am, Rizal and Viola left Leitmeritz by train.
3. Prague, Capital of Czech Republic
• Dr. Jose Rizal met Dr. Willkomm, a professor of natural history in the University
of Prague. But according to Viola, "nothing of importance happened" in this city.
4. Vienna, Austria
• On May 20, 1887, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful city of Vienna, capital of
Austria-Hungary. Rizal described Vienna as truly the "Queen of Danube" because
of its beautiful buildings, religious images, haunting waltzes and majestic charm
• One of the greatest Austrian novelists, Norfentals, was favorably impressed by
Rizal, and years later he spoke highly of Rizal, "whose genius he so much
admired."
• Rizal and Viola stayed in Hotel Metropole.
5. Danube River Voyage to Lintz, Austria
• On May 24, 1887, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see the beautiful
sights of the Danube River. Rizal particularly noticed that the passengers on the
river boat were using paper napkins during the meals, which was a novelty to him.
Viola, commented that the paper napkins were "more hygienic and economical
than cloth napkins".
6. From Lintz, Austria to Munich, Nuremberg, Ulm, Stuttgart, and Rheinfall,
• It was in Munich where Rizal and Viola dwelled for a short time to savor the
famous Munich beer, reputed to be the best in Germany. They also visited
Nuremberg, one of the oldest cities of Germany as well as the Cathedral of Ulm,
reputed to be the largest and tallest cathedral in all Germany. From Ulm, they
went to Stuttgart, Baden and then Rheinfall (Cascade of the Rhine). At Rheinfall,
they saw the waterfall, "the most beautiful waterfall of Europe".
7. Crossing the Rhein River to Switzerland
• On June 2 to 3, 1887, they stayed at Schaffhausen, Switzerland then moved to
Geneva. This Swiss city is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, visited by
world tourists every year.
On June 19, 1887, Rizal treated Viola to a blow-out on his 26th birthday. Rizal and Viola
spent fifteen delightful days in Geneva.
On June 23, 1887, Viola and Rizal parted ways. Viola returned to Barcelona while Rizal
continued the tour to Italy. While in Italy, Rizal received the news that an exposition of
the Philippines about his fellow countrymen who were the Igorots of Northern Luzon,
were exhibited in Madrid, Spain. Rizal was greatly annoyed and disturbed because he felt
that they have been degraded.
8. Rizal in Italy
On June 27, 1887, Rizal reached Rome, described as the "Eternal City" and also called
the "City of the Caesars". He was thrilled by the sights and memories of the Eternal City
by writing to Blumentritt, as the " grandeur that was Rome".
• On the Feast Day of St. Peter and St. Paul celebrated on June 29, 1887, Rizal
visited for the first time the Vatican, the "City of the Popes" and the capital of
Christendom.
• Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his hotel, very tired.
"I am tired as a dog," he wrote to Blumentritt, "but I will sleep as a God". After a
week of wonderful sojourn in Rome, Rizal prepared to return to the Philippines.
He had already written to his father that he was coming home.
First Return to the Philippines (1887-1888)
Notwithstanding the warning by Paciano (his brother), Silvestre Ubaldo (his brother-in-
law), Chengoy (Jose M. Cecilio) and other friends not to return home, because of the
pandemonium among the friars caused by the publication of Noli Me Tangere, Rizal was
however determined to return to the Philippines for the following reasons.
° to operate on his mother's eyes
• to serve his people who had long been oppressed by Spanish tyrants
o to find out for himself how Noli and his other writings were affecting Filipinos and
Spaniards in the Philippines
o to inquire why Leonor Rivera remained silent.
• Rizal wrote on July 29, 1887 to his father, announcing his homecoming, "on the
15th of July," I shall embark for our country, so that from the 15th to the 30th of
August, we shall see each other"
• Rizal left Rome by train for Marseilles, a French port, which he reached without
mishap. On July 3, 1887, Rizal boarded the steamer Djemnah, the same streamer
which brought him to Europe five years ago. On July 30, 1887, in Saigon, Rizal
transferred to another steamer, Haiphong, which was Manila-bound.
• On August 3, 1887, the moon was full and Rizal slept soundly the whole night.
The calm sea, illuminated by the silvery moonlight, was a magnificent sight to him
It was near midnight of August 5, 1887 that the steamer Haiphong arrived in Manila.
• Rizal returned to Calamba on August 8, 1887. He established a medical clinic. His
first patient was his mother, who was almost blind. He came to be called "Doctor
Uliman" because he came from Germany, treated their ailments and soon he
acquired a lucrative medical practice. He also opened a gymnasium for young
folks, where he introduced European sports.
• Rizal suffered one failure during his six months of stay in Calamba which was his
failure to see Leonor Rivera.
