141

Felling Trees Sizing Up and Analyzing the Tree

Felling trees for the Forest Service requires training Felling a tree begins with thoroughly sizing up and
and certification. You must receive training and certi- analyzing the tree, and identifying its dangers. There
fication before attempting to cut a standing tree. Size may be hidden dangers, such as rot inside the tree.
up the tree and develop a cutting plan, as explained in Keep in mind that not all dangers are in the tree itself.
the “Using the Forest Service Cutting Process” sec- Take into account the topography in the area as well
tion earlier in this chapter. Focus on the complexity as the wind and weather conditions. Do not attempt
(lean, tension, compression, defects, or damage) of to cut trees that have complexities beyond your abil-
the tree and not its size. The complexity of small trees ity to mitigate. If you have any doubt about your abil-
is harder to identify, often making them more danger- ity to fell a tree safely, walk away or seek the help of a
ous to fell than big trees. more experienced feller.

This manual focuses on how to use an ax, but a saw To determine the lean of a tree, plumb the tree from
can make the job of felling trees easier and safer, espe- the intended lay and 90 degrees off the intended lay.
cially for novice axmen. This section covers the use of Stand far enough away from the base so that you
an ax in conjunction with a crosscut saw. While people can see the tree’s entire height. A tree can have more
often use an ax as a standalone tool, it is actually a than one lean. Many timber fellers use a plumb bob
companion tool to a crosscut saw. When you use a and string to judge lean, but you can also use an ax.
crosscut saw, you should also use the appropriate ax Loosely hold the ax by the knob of the handle with
and felling or bucking wedges. The five-step process the head pointing down. The ax becomes a straight-
from the “Using the Forest Service Cutting Process” edge that helps you determine the lean of the tree.
section earlier in this chapter comes into play here.
The poster “Visual Danger Tree Indicators” <https://
www.fs.fed.us/t-d/php/library_card.php?p_
“As a scout, you are the guardian of the woods. num=1167%202M13> (figure 11–36) can help you
A scout never damages a tree by hacking it with identify the main hazards a tree may contain. You can
his knife or axe. It does not take long to fell a order printed copies of the poster by contacting the
tree, but it takes many years to grow one, so a National Technology and Development Program at
scout cuts down a tree for a good reason only, 406–329–3900.
not just for the sake of using his axe. For every
tree felled, two should be planted.”
—Lord Baden-Powell

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
142
Every tree has a safe and an unsafe side. Position
Visual Danger Tree yourself and plan your cutting activities to take place
Indicators on the safe side of the tree. Do not put yourself at
Widowmaker Dangers can vary by unnecessary risk, and do not position yourself under
Dead forked top location of trees, condition the lean of the tree or any overhead hazards that may
with crack at the of trees, and changing
stem union
conditions around trees. fall on you.
Not all dead trees are
dangerous; not all live trees Once you thoroughly analyze the tree and determine
are safe.
Lightning scar the direction of fall, plan your escape paths. Escape
Nest cavity paths should not be located in front of the tree or
behind the tree, but diagonally a safe distance away
Witches’ broom
from the tree or to a place of cover (figure 11–37).
Loose/missing bark
Before you begin to cut, clear everything from the es-
Large dead limb cape paths that could cause you to trip, fall, or that
Broken or hanging limb might otherwise hinder your escape.
Rot, soft or Stem scar or cat face
spongy wood
Insect bore holes/ Canker
pitch pockets
Fungal fruiting bodies/conks
Roots uplifted Split trunk or fire scar

Basal fire scar

Root rot or burned root

Mushrooms

Missoula Technology and Development Center

1167-2M13-MTDC

Tree illustration courtesy of the Wildlife Tree Committee of British Columbia

Figure 11–36—The “Visual Danger Tree Indicators” poster.

Figure 11–37—An escape path at an angle away from the

back of a falling tree, but not directly behind the tree.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 143
With the escape paths cleared, examine the site because a portion of the tree may split off and could
where you will chop. Ensure that you have good come back and strike you as you chop. Some tree
footing and that the area is clear for swinging an ax. species are more prone to barber chair. Learn the
Remember, even a small twig can deflect the blow of characteristics of the types of wood you cut. Wood
an ax, causing it to change direction midswing. species and their characteristics vary from region to
region.
Never attempt to fell a tree against its lean when you
only use an ax. Be wary of trees with a heavy lean; Aside from heavy leaners and the characteristics of
they are more likely to split lengthwise up the stem certain tree species, an improperly aligned undercut
during felling. This is known as a “barber chair” (fig- (also known as a “Dutchman”) is another common
ure 11–38). Barber chairs are extremely dangerous cause for a tree to barber chair (figure 11–39).

Dutchman

Figure 11–38—A tree split lengthwise up the stem during felling, Figure 11–39—An undercut with a “Dutchman.”
known as a “barber chair.”

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
144
The intersection of the horizontal and the sloping Because felling trees is one of the most dangerous
cuts must line up exactly (figure 11–40). If the cuts do tasks in the Forest Service, the information given
not line up, the tree could barber chair as it begins to here serves as a baseline for fellers to understand
fall. If you create a Dutchman in your undercut, cor- the general principles of cutting down trees. With
rect it with an ax or saw before starting the back cut. every swing of an ax or pull of a saw, you change
The following section, “Making the Initial Cuts,” pro- the dynamics and the forces of a standing tree until
vides information about undercuts and back cuts. your actions bring the tree to the ground. If you do
not fully understand the forces at play, do not cut
Felling a tree in a direction away from its lean or the tree. The same applies to bucking downed logs,
compensating for its lean typically involves the use which can often be more hazardous than felling
of wedges placed in the saw kerf or back cut. The standing trees.
inability to use standard wedging techniques when
felling with only an ax makes it very difficult, even for Green trees are generally safer than dead trees to
experienced fellers, to manipulate a tree away from work around and fell, but all trees can pose hidden
its natural direction of fall. There are techniques to dangers. The nature of green wood allows you to
accomplish this, such as the use of cables to provide manipulate it more easily. Dead wood can be stiff
directional tension and some complicated wedging and brittle. Be especially wary of dead and defec-
or leveraging systems, but these techniques are best tive trees, trees that are broken, and trees that show
left to highly skilled and specially trained fellers. signs of rot, insects, or nesting cavities. Check to
ensure the tree is sound by thumping it with the poll
If there is another tree in the intended direction of of the ax. Check from several different positions
fall that could cause your tree to hang up, you may around the base of the tree. If the tree sounds hollow,
need to fell that tree first. Trees that hang up can be it may be rotten. Keep in mind that not every green
extremely dangerous. They require special training to tree is safe and not every dead tree is immediately
remove safely. dangerous.

Figure 11–40—An undercut where

the sloping and horizontal cuts line
up perfectly.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 145
A tree must have solid wood for the hinge. The hinge it does not have 30 percent solid wood. An increment
controls the fall. Once you break or sever the hinge bore is ideal for determining the solidity of the wood,
(figure 11–41), the tree is no longer attached to the but most axmen don’t carry one into the woods.
stump and you are no longer in control. Before the Many experienced axmen sound a tree using the poll
hinge breaks, your goal is to commit the tree to the end of a single-bit ax. If the tree sounds hollow, they
direction in which you intend it to fall. Ideally, the do not cut the tree.
hinge breaks when the undercut closes. A shallow-
angle undercut closes sooner than a wider-angle Storm- or fire-damaged trees pose unique and often
undercut (here we are talking about the angle of the hidden dangers. Every log may have multiple binds
undercut and not its depth). Rotten wood makes a with varying degrees of tension and compression
weak or nonexistent hinge. A tree should have a mini- that pose challenges for both bucking and felling
mum of 30 percent solid wood to cut. Do not cut it if activities.

Figure 11–41—Two stumps showing

a hinge. The stump to the right was
cut with a crosscut saw and ax
combination. The stump below was
cut with an ax alone.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
146
Making the Initial Cuts
The initial cut in the tree is the undercut (figure 11– 45-degree sloping cut using the ax and a flat, hori-
42). Make your cut so that the tree falls in the direc- zontal cut with the crosscut saw.
tion you intend. If you only use an ax to fell, your typi-
cal undercut is about one-half of the tree’s diameter. Once you make the undercut, you can use a double-
Your cuts should be at a 45-degree angle and should bit ax to judge the direction of fall. Place the ax head
form a large, horizontal “V” (also known as a “bird’s in the cut and sight down the handle (figure 11–43).
mouth”). If you use a crosscut saw to fell, your typical The handle points in the direction of fall. A single-bit
undercut is about one quarter of the tree’s diameter. ax usually does not work for this type of sighting be-
When you use an ax and a crosscut saw, make the cause the handle is typically curved.

Crosscut saw cut Figure 11–42—Making a 45-degree

sloping cut with an ax. Note the
horizontal crosscut saw cut.

Figure 11–43—Sighting down an ax

handle to determine the direction
of fall.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 147
Perform the back cut on the opposite side of the Felling With a Crosscut Saw and Ax
tree (figure 11–44). It is very important not to cut all
Felling a tree with a crosscut saw and ax allows you
the way through the tree. Leave a strip of wood to
to adjust your cuts easily and increases safety. Using
serve as a hinge. As noted earlier, the hinge con-
a crosscut saw and ax also allows you to use con-
trols the direction of fall. The thickness of the hinge
ventional wedging techniques to assist with felling.
varies, depending on the size of the tree. Big trees
If the tree has a dedicated lean, wedging may not be
require more hinge and smaller trees require less
necessary to commit a tree to a direction of fall. How-
hinge. The tree can fall in any direction if you cut
ever, a wedge placed lightly in the kerf (figure 11–45)
through the hinge.
will fall out once the tree starts to move. This serves
as a visual indicator that the tree is beginning to fall.

Figure 11–44—Performing a back

cut on a tree using a crosscut saw.

Figure 11–45—Placing a wedge

lightly in the kerf of the tree will help
alert you when the tree begins to
fall.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
148
Felling techniques when using an ax and crosscut chain saw users. The chain saw cuts fast. While a
saw together are essentially the same as when using sawyer using a chain saw can power through wood
an ax alone. Use the crosscut saw to make a horizon- fibers that would cause a crosscut saw to bind, a
tal undercut about one quarter the diameter of the sawyer using an ax and crosscut saw may need to
tree and use the ax to make a sloping cut that meets apply more finesse. When using an ax and crosscut
up with the horizontal cut. saw, the sawyer spends more time identifying the
tension and compression of a tree before cutting.
Use the crosscut saw to make the back cut 2 inches Taking the time to evaluate a tree’s dynamics makes
above the undercut. This helps prevent the tree from the process of cutting down a tree safer.
sliding back across the stump as it falls. Use wedges
to prevent the tree from sitting down on top of the The University of Montana’s School of Extended
saw while cutting. Again, be sure to leave a hinge in and Lifelong Learning provides the online interac-
place to help guide the tree to the ground. tive training course “The Crosscut Sawyer” <http://
www.campusce.net/umextended/course/course.
Make your cuts at a comfortable height for you. Cut- aspx?c=335> for people who want to learn more
ting too high on the stump leaves less wood in the about using crosscut saws. This course helps Forest
log, but cutting too low may make it more difficult to Service employees and volunteers to prepare for a
chop and saw. crosscut saw training and certification course.

Using an ax and crosscut saw to fell a tree provides

unique insight into the felling process that may elude

As a Tree Begins to Fall

As you chop or saw, look up frequently to watch
for signs of movement or for hidden hazards that
you may have overlooked. You will notice move-
ment in the treetop first when the tree is close
to falling. Step away from the base of the tree
into your escape path, look up for falling debris,
and watch the tree as it commits to its direction
of fall. Be aware of hazards that may result from
the tree you cut striking other trees on the way
down, or when the tree hits the ground. While
some people may, the author would never turn
his back on a falling tree. Remember that most
injuries and fatalities that occur during the felling
process happen within 10 feet of the stump.

“Cutting” by Claire Leighton. —Collection of the Illinois

State Museum. Courtesy of the Fine Arts Program, Public
Buildings Service, U.S. General Services Administration.
Commissioned through the New Deal Art Projects

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 149

Crosscut Saw Variations

Be aware of crosscut saw variations. As with axes,
not all crosscut saws are intended for the same types
of work. There are felling and bucking saws (figure 11–
46), as well as different tooth patterns for cutting dif-
ferent types of wood. Generally, felling saws are more
flexible and have a concave back while bucking saws
are heavier, stiffer, and have a straight back. Felling
saws typically have one hole in each end to accom-
modate the handle. Bucking saws typically have two
holes in each end for the handle. The two holes in
each end of the saw provide a pivot point to make it
easier for a sawyer to cut in different positions and to
apply cutting force to different points on the log.

Figure 11–46—A felling

saw (top) and a bucking
saw (bottom).

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
150

Crosscut Saw Variations (continued) Front side

Generally, saws with four cutting teeth per raker are

better for cutting softer wood while saws with two
cutting teeth per raker are better for cutting hard or
Back side
frozen wood (figure 11–47).

Figure 11–47—Crosscut
saw tooth patterns.

Champion Tooth

Front side
Front side

Back side
Back side

Plain Tooth Tuttle Tooth

Front side Front side

Back side Back side

M Tooth Lance Tooth

Front side Front side

Back side Back side

Great American Tooth Perforated Lance Tooth

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 151

Crosscut Saw Variations (continued)

Good crosscut saw handles can be more difficult to
find than a good crosscut saw. Most sawyers prefer
the western handle pattern, which provides added
protection for hands and knuckles. Be aware that
some handles are designed for bucking and others
for felling (figure 11–48). Bucking handles tradition-
ally have a longer wooden shaft, while felling handles
have a shorter wooden shaft. The shorter shaft on
felling handles is a safety measure. Typically, you pull
the saw parallel to your body while bucking and pull
the saw horizontally toward your body while felling.
The short shaft of a felling handle prevents the handle
from catching on clothes or suspenders while cutting
and allows you to keep the power of your stroke in line
with the saw. The longer shaft of the bucking handle
allows you to adjust your hand position to apply force
on different parts of the log.

Figure 11–48—Crosscut saw

felling and bucking handles.

Bucking Felling
handles handles

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
152
When using an ax and crosscut saw, it is best to use Simply reviewing instructional materials about felling,
your ax to clear away the bark from the area you bucking, and the use of saws is insufficient. Proper
intend to cut (figure 11–49). The bark of a tree holds training requires classroom instruction and field exer-
dirt, which can quickly dull a crosscut saw. Clearing cises led by certified trainers.
the bark helps keep the saw sharp and cutting well. A
sharp, well-tuned crosscut saw is easy to use. Sharp-
ening a crosscut saw is time consuming; it is an art Wedges
unto itself. Wedges are useful for felling trees and for bucking
logs when using a saw. Sawyers typically use an ax to
The publication “Saws That Sing: A Guide to Using drive the wedges. There are different types of wedges
Crosscut Saws” (0423–2822P–MTDC) <http://www. for different purposes. Wedges can make felling and
fs.fed.us/t-d/php/library_card.php?p_num=0423%20 bucking easier and safer. Do not underestimate the
2822P> provides detailed information about using importance of this simple, basic tool.
crosscut saws.
Most wedges today are made of hard plastic (figure
The publication “Chain Saw and Crosscut Saw 11–50). Some plastic wedges contain a steel insert in
Training Course, Student’s Guidebook” (0667–2805– the end cap. The steel provides better durability while
MTDC) <https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/php/library_card. the plastic body absorbs the shock, preventing dam-
php?p_num=0667%202805> provides detailed infor- age to the poll of the ax. It is against Forest Service
mation about Forest Service chain saw and crosscut policy to use wooden wedges because they have a
saw training. tendency to split. Wooden wedges also tend to be

Figure 11–49—Clearing bark from

an area on a tree before using a
crosscut saw.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 153
thicker and do not easily fit in a kerf. The Forest Ser-
vice allows the use of steel wedges (figure 11–51),
but the wedges must be in good condition. Be aware
that a steel wedge can damage an ax or saw, where-
as a plastic wedge will not.

Figure 11–50—Plastic felling wedges.

Figure 11–51—A steel wedge (top)

and a wooden wedge (bottom).

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
154
Some companies make aluminum wedges (figure
11–52) that are acceptable because the softer metal
does not damage an ax or saw. Never use a broken
or damaged wedge, especially if the back edge is
mushroomed (figure 11–53). Mushroomed pieces can
break off and cause injury. Wedges come with
smooth, textured, or ridged surfaces (figure 11–54).
Wedges with smooth surfaces are easier to drive,
while wedges with textured or ridged surfaces pro-
vide friction that helps to hold the wedges in place.

Figure 11–52—Aluminum wedges.

Figure 11–53—Mushroomed and

damaged felling wedges.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 155

Figure 11–54—A wedge with a ridged

surface.

Wedges come in different lengths. Make sure to use Felling Wedges

a wedge that is appropriate for the size of the wood Felling wedges generally have a gentle taper. If they
you cut. You may not be able to drive a long wedge taper too much, they create resistance when you
deep enough into a small tree to provide the lifting drive them into the kerf. Felling wedges are either
power you need, and you may run up against the single taper, double taper, or triple taper on one side
back of your saw. only. Single-taper wedges are easier to drive because
they have a lower profile. Double- and triple-taper
Felling and Bucking Wedges wedges can provide better lifting capacity. Double-
Felling wedges are tapered on one side and flat on and triple-taper wedges are similar to single-taper
the other side, giving them lifting power. Bucking wedges, but their tapers increase around the middle
wedges have a double taper, meaning they taper on of the wedge. Be careful not to confuse the taper of
both sides. They are better for keeping the kerf open felling and bucking wedges. Felling wedges are al-
when cutting a downed log in two. The forces on ways flat on one side to provide lifting power when
bucking wedges spread out equally between the two felling trees, whereas bucking wedges taper on both
sides as you drive the wedge in, preventing the saw sides to keep a kerf open while cutting a downed
blade from binding or pinching. log into segments. You place the flat side of the fell-
ing wedge on the bottom of the kerf with the tapered
side facing up to lift the tree.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
156
Using a Felling Wedge With a Crosscut Saw Bucking Wedges
Wedges lift a tree so the tree falls into the undercut. Use bucking wedges to keep the kerf of a log open
They also prevent the tree from sitting back on the while you cut the log (figure 11–55). An 8-inch, dou-
crosscut saw and pinching the blade. When you set ble-taper wedge is a good general purpose wedge for
the wedge lightly into the back cut, it drops out when most bucking situations. An open kerf is important for
the tree starts to move (see figure 11–45). When fell- preventing a crosscut saw from being pinched, stuck,
ing a tree, the sawyer should watch the top of the or possibly bent. Bucking wedges may be made of
tree and the back cut for any indication that the tree softer material than felling wedges because bucking
is moving or about to fall. wedges do not endure the extreme forces and com-
pression that felling wedges do. Many people use fell-
Properly placing wedges can have a major effect on ing wedges for both felling and bucking.
the direction a tree falls, but understanding the gravi-
tational dynamics involved requires special training. Using a Bucking Wedge with a Crosscut Saw
Do not attempt to fell a tree against its natural lean
Drive the bucking wedge into the kerf as soon as the
without proper training.
saw allows it. Reset the wedge as necessary to keep
the kerf open and the saw running freely.

Figure 11–55—Using a wedge to

hold a kerf open on a log.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 157

Holding Wedges It is difficult to find holding wedges today. Newly man-

ufactured holding wedges are made of aluminum and
A holding or hanging wedge is another type of spe-
may be too thick to penetrate deeply across the kerf
cialized wedge used for bucking. People also refer
of a dry log. You can sand or grind the sides of hold-
to these types of wedges as tie wedges. Drive these
ing wedges to create a thinner profile for wedges that
smaller, thinner wedges across the kerf of the log
are too thick.
you are bucking. The wedge holds the log in place
and keeps it from shifting or twisting as you cut it.
Vintage holding wedges (figure 11–56) have the prop-
These wedges have an eyehole near the top where
er thickness for driving across the kerf of a log that
you could link two wedges together with a lanyard.
you are bucking, but they are made of steel and the
Sawyers typically use these wedges in pairs and drive
tops of the wedges roll or mushroom after repeated
them into the log across the kerf at the 10 o’clock and
use. Rolled or mushroomed ax polls or wedges can
2 o’clock positions.
be dangerous. Do not use them.

Figure 11–56—Newly
manufactured aluminum
holding wedges (foreground)
tend to be thicker than vintage
holding wedges (background).

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
158
When bucking, a sawyer drives holding wedges (con- back of the lodged ax head (figure 11–57). As the
nected by a lanyard) horizontally across the kerf. The sawyer continues to cut and the end of the log drops
sawyer uses the poll end of a single-bit ax to drive away, the wedges remain on the lodged ax head (fig-
the wedges. The sawyer then sinks the ax in the sec- ure 11–58). This prevents the wedges from dropping
tion of log that will not move after the log is cut and and possibly damaging the saw.
places the lanyard connecting the wedges over the

Figure 11–57—Driving wedges

into a log (left). Note the lanyard
placed over the back of the ax head
(below).

Lanyard

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 159
Splitting wedges (figure 11–59) are thick, heavy, metal
wedges for splitting wood. The “Splitting Wood” sec-
tion later in this chapter provides information about
splitting wedges.

Figure 11–58—With the lanyard

connecting the wedges over the
back of the lodged ax head, the
wedges remain fixed on the log after
the cut end of the log drops away.

Figure 11–59—Splitting wedges.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
160
Moving the Wood
A little preplanning can make moving a log after
chopping or sawing safer and easier. You may need
to first cut other logs and brush, or move obstacles
that would prevent you from moving the log you plan
to cut.

Spring Poles
Be careful around spring poles (figure 11–60)—bent
branches or small saplings held in place by a downed
log. They can be under considerable tension and may
release with tremendous force. Cut any spring poles
before cutting the log that holds them in place. A se-
ries of small cuts on the underside (compressed side)
of the spring pole releases the tension and reduces or
eliminates its ability to spring up.

Tension

Compression

Figure 11–60—A spring pole.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 161
If the log is partially or totally elevated off the
ground, determine where it will fall after you cut it.
Make sure that it will not dislodge or strike other
material that could injure you. Correctly identify any
areas of tension or compression and the types of
binds you may encounter.

If you need to move the log after you cut it, place
smaller logs or poles beneath the log (figure 11–61)
and use them to roll or skid the log out of the way.

Figure 11–61—Using poles to roll or

skid a cut log out of the way.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
162
Log carriers (figures 11–62 and 11–63) provide a con- The log carrier is a useful tool, but people must pro-
venient way for two people to move and place a log vide the muscle to lift the log. Understanding and
if the log is not too large or heavy. A log carrier has using mechanical advantage to increase leverage
two swinging, hooked tongs suspended from a stout enables people to move heavier pieces of wood while
pole. The two people secure the tongs to the log to reducing back strain and potential injury.
lift and move it. More people can use two or more log
carriers to move larger logs.

Figure 11–62—A log carrier

designed for two people.

Log carrier

Figure 11–63—Tools used for

carrying logs. Note that the “log
carrier” on the right is actually a
set of ice tongs.

Ice tongs

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 163
A lever is the most common type of mechanical A cant hook has a straight handle with a metal end
advantage for moving cut logs. A stout pole may pro- cap and a swinging, hooked arm. The end cap typi-
vide enough leverage (figure 11–64), or you can use a cally has short dogs (teeth) to hold the log while
cant hook (figure 11–65) or peavey. the swinging, hooked arm grips the log. The long
handle provides leverage. A peavey is similar to a
cant hook, but it has a spike instead of an end cap
(figure 11–66).

Figure 11–64—Using a lever to move

a log.

Figure 11–65—Using a cant hook to

move a log.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
164
Cant hooks and peaveys typically have hardwood Rigging and specialized equipment provide other
handles that range from 30 to 66 inches, though methods for moving logs. The publication “Rigging
some have smaller handles for moving logs in close for Trail Work: Principles, Techniques, and Lessons
quarters, such as a sawmill. from the Backcountry” provides information about
some of these methods. “Handtools for Trail Work:
Lightweight pickaroons or hookaroons (figure 11–67), 2005 Edition” (0523–2810P–MTDC) <http://www.
commonly found in a sawmill or log yard, are useful for fs.fed.us/t-d/php/library_card.php?p_num=0523%20
rolling or moving logs. The tools look almost identical 2810P> provides excellent information about
and serve the same purpose, but pickaroons tend to handtools Forest Service employees use for trail
have a straighter tang, similar to a pick, and hooka- maintenance and construction.
roons have a small hook or nub at the end of the tang.

Peavey

Figure 11–66—A peavey and cant

hook. Note the spike on the peavey
Cant hook and the dogs (teeth) on the cant
hook.

Hookaroon

Figure 11–67—A pickaroon and a

hookaroon. Pickaroons tend to have
a straighter tang, while hookaroons Tang
have a small hook or nub at the end
of the tang (inset). Pickaroon

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 165
Splitting Wood
Chopping wood is the function of an ax. Splitting
wood is the function of a maul and wedge (figure 11–
68). You can split wood with an ax, but if you have
large rounds or knotty wood, a maul and wedge are
the proper tools to use.

Whichever tools you use, pay close attention to the

grain of the round you split. Splitting, as the name im-
plies, is when the split follows the grain. Chopping is
done perpendicular to the grain. Some woods have
curly or twisting grain, making them difficult to split.
Other woods have straight grain, making them easy to
split. If possible, avoid knots by splitting around them.

The ax you use for felling or bucking may not be the

best ax for splitting. The ideal ax for splitting is a
large, heavy, single-bit ax with a long handle. A hard-
ened poll, such as the poll on a rafting-pattern ax
(see figure 5–3), is the best choice for driving a split-
ting wedge. Remember, most axes do not have a
hardened poll, and driving a steel wedge can damage
the poll.

Figure 11–68—A maul and splitting

wedges.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
166

The Soft Sides of a Double-bit Ax

Do not use the side of a double-bit ax to drive wedg-
es (figure 11–69). The sides of a double-bit ax are
softer than the cutting edges and you could damage
the ax or break the handle.

Figure 11–69—Driving wedges

with a double-bit ax can damage
the sides of the ax head.

Damage caused from

pounding wedges

When splitting wood, the cutting edge of an ax head A true splitting ax is different from a chopping ax.
should be sharp, and the sides should be thicker. The splitting ax is heavier and often wider, causing
This enables the ax to have greater splitting action greater wood separation through wedging action.
once the cutting edge penetrates the wood. The lon- Some manufacturers make modern splitting ax
ger handle enables you to generate more speed as blades with small wings that spread the wood out
you swing the ax. during the strike and cause greater displacement
(figure 11–71). Splitting axes, particularly ones with
For field use, the author uses a 4½-pound ax head on longer handles, do not make efficient chopping axes.
a 27-inch handle for chopping and a 5¾-pound head The extra weight and longer handle often make them
on a 44-inch handle for splitting rounds of firewood unwieldy, especially for horizontal strokes.
(figure 11–70). The long handle on the splitting ax
makes the ax difficult to control for felling or bucking,
but makes it ideal for splitting rounds of firewood.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 167

Chopping ax

Figure 11–70—A 4½-pound Arvika

5-Star ax head on a 27-inch handle
(top) and a 5¾-pound American Splitting ax
Axe and Tool Company ax head on
a 44-inch handle (bottom).

Wing
Figure 11–71—A modern splitting
ax with wings that help spread and
split the log. The inset shows a
closeup of one wing.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
168
If you split a round of wood with flat ends, place it splitting, flick or twist your wrist slightly as the ax
on level ground, on another round, or on a chopping strikes to help split the wood (figure 11–73). Keep in
block. Take advantage of any splits or checks (natu- mind that flicking your wrist causes side torque on
ral cracks) in the wood; these provide easy points for the handle that could potentially break it, especially if
splitting the round into pieces (figure 11–72). When the handle is already damaged.

Check

Figure 11–72—Use splits or checks

in the wood when splitting a round
of wood with an ax.

Swing Hit Flick

Figure 11–73—Flicking or twisting the wrist slightly as the ax strikes helps to split the wood.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 169
If the ax sticks in the round of wood, be careful not To free an ax that is stuck, first bump or push the
to apply too much continuous force trying to free it. handle down and then up, repeating the processs un-
Applying too much continuous force may result in a til the ax starts to move, as shown in figure 11–74.
broken ax handle.

Stuck
ax

Never
yank
up on
the ax
handle
Bump
downward

Or

Push
downward

Then
Bump
or
pull
upward

Repeat
until the ax Push
begins to forward
move
Repeat
Then
Until

The ax
releases

Figure 11–74—Freeing a lodged ax by first bumping or pushing the handle down and then up, repeating the
process until the ax begins to loosen from the wood.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
170
If you cannot easily remove an ax from a round of the round will not be upright, you will likely have to
wood, use another ax or a maul and wedge to split split it from the side. Strike as close to the top of the
the round and free the ax (figure 11–75). round as possible, using any natural cracks in the
wood that you see and avoiding any knots. If you do
If the round you cut does not have flat ends, it will not position your strike well, splitting from the side
not stand upright. In this case, instead of using a flat poses an added risk of a glancing or scooping blow.
chopping block, find a forked section of log and se- Knotty wood or wood with an uneven, curly grain
cure the round into the fork (figure 11–76). If you are can make the situation even more dangerous. If you
unable to find a forked section of log, try notching a split from the side, chop so that the wood splits away
log to give the round a stable place to rest. Because from you and not toward you. If you chop with the

Figure 11–75—Using a wedge and

maul to split a round and free a
bound ax. An ax is more likely to
bind when striking the center of a
round. Striking the edge of a round
not only decreases the likelihood
that the ax will bind, but also splits
the round more easily.

Figure 11–76—Using a forked

section of log to secure a round
that does not have flat ends.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 171
wood splitting toward you, the head of the ax also Place the wedge about one-quarter to one-third of
is coming toward you. If you can stabilize the round the way across the top of the round, closer to the
with your foot, you are chopping in the wrong direc- edge than the center. Take advantage of any natural
tion (figure 11–77). Plan your cuts for safety. splits in the wood and avoid knots. Drive the wedge
about three-quarters of its length into the round. Ide-
A maul is more wedge-shaped and heavier than an ally, the round will split down and across its diameter.
ax. You may be able to split many rounds without us- If the round splits, you can use the maul and a wedge
ing a wedge, but for large rounds and rounds with to strike the side of the round opposite the first
twisted grains or many knots, using a splitting maul wedge to finish the cut (figure 11–78). If the round
and steel wedge is the easiest and safest option. En- does not split sufficiently, you can use the maul to
sure that the poll of the maul is made of tempered knock the wedge free and start the process again.
or hardened steel and always wear safety glasses.

us
rect g ero
Cor Dan
Figure 11–77—An alternative
method for chopping a round
that does not have flat ends.

Figure 11–78—Striking a wedge

with a maul after driving a wedge
into the opposite side of the round.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
172
Never drive an ax by striking its poll with another ax Start by taking advantage of natural cracks in the log.
or maul. The poll is not hardened and striking it can Use a sledge hammer or maul to drive a wedge into
damage an ax. The poll could mushroom over (see the end or top of the log to develop a split (figure 11–
figure 8–19) and consequently alter the shape of the 79). As the split develops, drive another wedge into
eye. Striking a wedge with a mushroomed poll could the split and remove the first wedge (figure 11–80).
cause pieces of the poll to break off and injure you. Traditionally, an axman would use a wooden wedge
(“glut”) to “chase” the split down the length of the
Splitting is not just for firewood. You may have a log. You can use either a steel spliting wedge or a
need or an occasion to split a long length of wood glut for this task.
into a rail. To do this, you need several wedges and a
maul, or a sledge hammer and ax.

Figure 11–79—Using a sledge

hammer and wedge to split a rail
from a log.

Figure 11–80—As the split in figure

11–79 develops, drive another
wedge into the split.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 173
Repeat the process, alternating the wedges down the ax requires more finesse and skill to maneuver the
length of the log until the log splits (figure 11–81). As cuts accurately while not striking the other ax or its
the split develops, it may move to a different grain. handle. With a little practice, you can use this method
Use an ax to cut across the grain and get the split to split your own rails. Figure 11–82 shows hand-split
back in line with your intended cut. You can also per- Ponderosa pine rails. You can split other types of
form this method by alternating two axes down the wood, such as cedar, more easily and cleanly.
length of the log instead of using wedges. Using an

Figure 11–81—Continue to drive

wedges down the length of the log
until the log splits.

Figure 11–82—Hand-split rails.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
174
Removing Bark With an Ax
The best time to remove or peel bark with an ax is
in the spring, when sap is flowing. When sap flows
through the cambium layer that lies just beneath the
bark of a tree, it is easy to remove the bark with a
sharp ax. Other tools, such as a bark spud or draw
knife (figures 11–83 and 11–84), can make the job easi-
er, but an ax works well if these tools are not available.

Figure 11–83—A bark spud with

a spur.

Figure 11–84—A draw knife.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
 175
Be cautious when peeling bark; you are not chopping chopping, try to get the ax blade under the bark and
to sever wood fibers, but are instead using the blade slide or push to lift and remove the bark. You need to
of the ax to lift the bark off the log. Traditional chop- adjust your grip on the ax handle to find the right mo-
ping methods cut too deep. Use a much shallower tion and leverage to remove the bark. You may often
angle to remove bark (figure 11–85). Because of the find yourself holding the ax head with one hand and
shallow angle and because the ax does not sink into the handle with the other, while using the blade like a
the log, there is a much greater risk of a glancing or drawknife or wood plane.
scooping blow. Shave the bark rather than chopping
it. If you do chop, choke up on the ax handle to make Even if the sap is not flowing, you may still be able
short, controlled chops. to remove bark easily from green trees. Dry wood
with tight bark can be difficult to peel on some tree
The thickness of the bark and the flow of sap are species and easier on others. The wood shrinks as it
key components in safely peeling logs. The thicker dries and the bark pulls away from the wood naturally
the bark, the more difficult the task. Rather than on some species.

Figure 11–85—Removing bark with

an ax blade. Note the shallow angle
of the blade in relation to the log.

Chapter 11—Using an Ax
176

Chapter 11—Using an Ax