COMPETENCY BASED

LEARNING MATERIAL

Sector:
AUTOMOTIVE/LAND TRANSPORT SECTOR
Distinctive Area of Competence and Qualifications:
Automotive Servicing NC II
Unit of Competency:
Service Starting Systems
Module Title:

SERVICING STARTING SYSTEMS

Technical Education and Skills Development
Authority

HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Welcome to the Competency Based Learning Material / module on Servicing Starting

Systems. This learning material contains activities for you to complete.

The unit of competency “Service Starting Systems” covers the knowledge, skills and
attitudes required for an Automotive Servicing course. It is one of the modules in the Common
Competencies at National Certificate Level (NC III)

You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete each of
the learning outcomes of this module. In each learning outcome, there are Information Sheets,
Resources Sheets and Reference Materials for further reading to help you better understand the
required activities. Follow these activities and answer the self-check. Get the answer sheet from
your trainer to reflect your answers for each self-check. If you have questions, please don’t
hesitate to ask your facilitator for assistance.

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

You may have some or most of the knowledge and skills covered in this learning material
because you have:

 Actual experience on the job

 Already completed training in this area

If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular skill or skills
talk to him/her about having them formally recognized so you won’t have to do the same training
again. If you have qualification or a Certificate of Competency from previous trainings, show it
to your trainer. If the skills you acquired are still relevant to this module, they may become part
of the evidence you can present for RPL.

At the end of this module is a learner’s diary. Use this diary to record important dates,
jobs undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing further details to
your trainer or assessors. A Record of Achievement is also provided for the trainer to complete
upon completion of the module.

This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency in performing
shop maintenance. This will be one of the sources of information that will enable you to acquire
the knowledge and skills of this particular trade at your own pace, with minimum supervision or
help from your trainer.
 Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training of this
module. Read through the Competency Based Learning Material carefully. It is
divided into sections which cover all the skills and knowledge you need to
successfully complete this module.
 Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/She is there
to support you and show you the correct way to do things. Ask for help.
 Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider when you
are completing the activities and it is important that you listen and take notes.
 You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on the job.
Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way you will
improve both your speed and memory and also your confidence.
 Talk to more experienced workmates and ask for their guidance.
 Use the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own progress.
 When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities outlined in
this learning material.
 As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your progress. Your
trainer keeps feedback/pre-assessment reports for this reason. When you have
successfully completed each element, ask your trainer to mark on the reports that you
are ready for assessment.
 When you have completed this module and feel confident that you have had sufficient
practice, your trainer will arrange an appointment with registered assessor to assess
you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your competency
Achievement Record.
QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC II
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Service Starting Systems
MODULE TITLE : SERVICING STARTING

SYSTEMS INTRODUCTION:

This unit identifies the competence required to: Test and repair starting systems.

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, you must be able to:

1. Test system/components and identify faults

2. Repair starting system associated components

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Work is completed without causing damage to any workplace

property or vehicle.
2. Information is accessed and interpreted from appropriate
manufacturer specifications.
3. Tests are carried out to determine faults using appropriate tools
and techniques.
4. Faults are identified and preferred repair action determined.
5. Starting systems are repaired without causing damage to any
workplace property or vehicle.
6. Information is accessed and interpreted from appropriate
manufacturer specifications.
7. Repairs, component replacement and adjustments are carried
out using appropriate tools, technique and materials.

PRE-REQUISITE: COMMON COMPETENCIES

QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC II
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Service Starting Systems
MODULE TITLE : SERVICING STARTING SYSTEMS

Learning Outcome #1: Test systems/components and identify faults

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Work is completed without causing damage to any workplace

property or vehicle.
2. Information is accessed and interpreted from appropriate
manufacturer specifications.
3. Tests are carried out to determine faults using appropriate tools
and techniques.
4. Faults are identified and preferred repair action determined.

Resources:

 Service Manual
 Basic hand tools
 Cleaning Solvent
 Fender cover
 Hoist or Safety stand
 Lubricant
Information Sheet Unit Service Starting Systems
No. 1 Module Servicing Starting Systems

LO1: Test systems/components and identify faults

The vehicle’s starting system is designed to turn or crank the engine over until it can operate
under its own power. To do this, the starter motor receives electrical power to the battery. The
starter motor then converts this energy into mechanical energy, which it transmits through the
drive mechanism to the engine’s flywheel (Figure 18-1).
The only function of the starting system is to crank the engine fast enough to run. The
vehicle’s ignition and fuel systems provide the spark and fuel engine operation, but they are not
considered components of the basic starting system.

Figure 18-1 A starter motor meshed with the engine’s flywheel.

STARTING SYSTEM – DESIGN AND COMPONENTS

A typical starting system has six basic components and two distinct electrical circuits. The
components are the battery, ignition switch, battery cables, magnetic switch, (either electrical or
solenoid), starter motor, and the starter safety switch.
The starter motor (Figure 18-2) draws a great deal of current from the battery. A large
starter motor might require 250 or more ampere of current. This current flows through the large
cable that connect the battery to the starter ground.
 Figure 18-2 A cutaway of a heavy-duty starter motor.

The driver controls the flow of this current using the ignition switch normally mounted
on the steering column. The battery cables are not connected to the switch. Rather, the system
has two separate circuits; the starter circuit and the control circuit (Figure 18-3). The starter
circuit carries the heavy current from the battery to the starter motor through a magnetic switch
in a relay or solenoid. The control circuit connects the battery power at the ignition switch, which
controls the high current to the starter motor.

Figure 18-3 A simple diagram showing the starter and starter control circuits.
Starter Circuit
The starter circuit carries the high current flow within the system and supplies power for the
actual engine cranking. Components of the starter circuit are the battery, battery cables, magnetic
switch or solenoid, and the starter motor.

Battery and Cables Many of the problems associated with the starting system can be resolved
by troubleshooting the battery ‘and its related components.
The starting circuit requires two-or-more heavy-gauge cables. One of these connects
between the battery’s negative terminal and the engine block or transmission case. The other
cable connects the battery’s positive terminal with the solenoid. On vehicles equipped with a
starter relay, two positive cables are needed. One runs from the positive battery terminal to the
relay and the second from the relay to the starter motor terminal. In any case, these cables carry
the required heavy current from the battery to the starter and the from the starter back to the
battery.
Cables must be heavy enough to comfortably carry the required current load. Cranking
problems can be created when undersized cables are installed. With undersized cables, the starter
motor does not develop its greatest turning effort and even a fully charged battery might be
unable to start the engine.

Magnetic Switches Every starting system contains some type of magnetic switch that enables
the control circuit to open and close the starter circuit. This magnetic switch can be of several
designs.

Solenoid The solenoid-actuated starter is by far the most common starter system used. A
solenoid is an electromechanical device that uses the movement of a plunger to exert a pulling or
holding force. As shown in Figure 18-4, the solenoid mounts directly on top of the starter motor.

Figure 18-4 An example of a solenoid-actuated starter where the solenoid mounts directly to the
starter motor.
 In this type of starting system, the solenoid uses the electromagnetic field generated by its
coil to perform two distinct jobs.
The first to push the drive pinion of the starter motor into the mesh with the engine’s
flywheel. This is the solenoid’s mechanical function. The second job is to act as a n electrical
relay switch to energize the motor once the drive the pinion is engaged. Once the contact points
of the solenoid are closed, full battery current floes to the starter motor.
The solenoid assembly has two separate windings: a pull-in winding and a hold-in
winding. The two windings have approximately the same number of turns but are wound from
the different size wire. Together with these winding procedures the electromagnetic force needed
to pull the plunger into the solenoid coil. The heavier pull-in windings draw the plunger into the
solenoid, while the lighter-gauge winding produce enough force to hold the plunger in this
position.
Both windings are energized when the ignition switch id turned to the start position.
when the plunger disc makes contact with this solenoid terminal, the pull-in winding is
deactivated. At the same time, the plunger contact disc makes the motor feed connection between
the battery and the starting motor, directing current to the field coils and starter motor armature
for cranking power.
As the solenoid plunger moves, the shift fork also pivots on the pivot pin and pushes the
starter drive pinion into mesh with the flywheel ring gear. When the starter motor received
current, its armature starts to turn. This motion is transferred through an overrunning clutch and
pinion gear to the engine flywheel and the engine is cranked.
With this type of solenoid-actuated direct drive starting system, teeth on the pinion gear
may not immediately located behind the pinion compresses so the solenoid plunger can complete
its stroke. When the starter motor armature begins to turn, the pinion teeth quickly line up with
the flywheel teeth and the spring pressure forces them to mesh.

Starter Relay. Relays are the second major type of magnetic switch used. All positive
engagement starters (describe later in this chapter) use a relay series with the battery cables to
deliver the high current necessary through the shortest possible battery cables. Figure 18-5
shows a typical starter relay. It is very similar to the solenoid. However, it is not used to move
the drive pinion into mesh. It is strictly an electrical relay or switch. When current from the
ignition switch arrives at the ignition switch terminal of the relay, a strong magnetic field is
generated in the coil of the relay. This magnetic force pulls the plunger contact disc up against
the battery terminal and the starter terminal of the relay, allowing full current flow to the starter.
 Figure 18-5 A starter relay/solenoid mounted on a vehicle.

A secondary function of the starter relay is to provide an alternate electrical path to the
ignition coil during cranking. This current flow bypass the resistance wire (or ballast resistor) in
the ignition bypass terminal on the relay. Not all systems have ignition bypass setup.
Some vehicles use both a starter relay and a starter motor mounted solenoid. The relay
controls current flow to the solenoid, which in turn controls currents flow to the starter motor.
This reduces the amount of current flowing through the ignition switch.
Basically, all the different starting systems in use today fit into in of three categories: the
solenoid shift, solenoid shift with relay, or the positive engagement with relay. Typical writing
diagrams for these systems are shown in Figure 18-6 and 18-7.
Figure 18-6 (A) A solenoid shift and (B) a solenoid shift with starter relay starting system.

Figure 18-7 A schematic of a positive engagement starter.

Starter Motor The starter motor (Figure 18-8) converts the electrical energy from the battery
into mechanical energy for cranking the engine. The starter is a special type of electric motor
designed to operate under great electrical overloads and to produce very high horsepower.

Figure 18-8 A typical starter motor assembly.

All starting motors are generally the same in design and operation. Basically, the starter
motor consists of a housing, field coils, an armature, a commutator and brushes, and end frames.
The starter housing or starter frame encloses the internal starter components and
protects them from damage, moisture, and foreign material. The housing supports the field coils.
The field coils and their pole shoes (Figure 18-9) are securely attached to the inside of
the iron housing. The field coils are insulated from the housing but are connected to a terminal
that protrudes through the outer surface of the housing.

Figure 18-9 An example of a field coil and pole shoe.

 The field coils and poles shoes are desired to produce strong stationary electromagnetic
fields within the study as current is passed through the starter. These magnetic fields are
concentrated at the pole shoe. Fields have an N or S magnetic polarity depending on the direction
of current flow. The coils are wound around respective pole shoes in opposite directions to
generate opposing magnetic fields.
The field coils connect in series with the armature winding through the starter brushes.
This design permits all current passing through the field coil circuit to also pass through the
armature windings.
The armature is the only rotating component of the starter. It is located between the
drive and accumulator end frames and the field windings. When the starter operates, the current
passing through the armature produces a magnetic field in each of its conductors. The reaction
between the armature’s magnetic field and the magnetic fields produced by the field coils causes
the armature to rotate. This mechanical energy is then used to crank the engine.
The armature has two main components: the armature windings and the commutator.
Both mount to the armature shaft. The windings are made of several coils of a single loop each.
The side of these loops fit into slots in the armature core or shaft, but they are insulated from it.
The coils connect to each other to the commutator so current from the field coils flows
through all of the armature windings at the same time. This action generates magnetic field
around each armature winding, resulting in a repulsion force all around the conductor. This
repulsion force causes the armature to turn.
The commutator assembly is made up of heavy copper segments separated from each
other and the armature shaft by insulation. The commutator segments connect to the ends of the
armature windings.
Most starter motors have two to six brushes that ride on the commutator segments and
carry the heavy current flow from the stationary fields coils to the rotating armature windings via
the commutator segments.
The brushes mount on and operate in some type of holder, which may be pivoting arm
design inside the starter housing or frame (Figure 18-10). However, in many starters the brush
holders are secured to the starter’s end frame. Springs hold the brushes against the commutator
with the correct pressure. Finally, alternate brush holders are insulated from the housing or end
frame. Those in between the insulated holders are grounded.
The end frame is a metal plate that bolts to the commutator end of the starter housing. It
supports the commutator end of the armature with a bushing and often contains the brush holders
that support the brush.
 Figure 18-10 The location of the starter motor brushes and commutator.

Operating Principle. The starter motor converts electric current into torque or twisting force
through the interaction of magnetic fields. It has a stationary magnetic field, the field windings,
and a current-carrying conductor, the armature windings (Figure 18-11). When the armature
windings are placed in this stationary magnetic field and current is passed through the windings,
a second magnetic field is generated with its line of force in the stationary magnetic field flow in
one direction across the winding they combine on one side of the wire, increasing the field
strength, but are opposed on the other side, weakening the filed strength. This creates an
unbalanced magnetic force, pushing the wire in the direction of the weak field (Figure 18-12).

Figure 18-11 A simple DC motor.

 Figure 18-12 Rotation of the conductor is in the direction of the weaker magnetic field.

Since the armature windings are formed in loops or coils, current flows outward in one
direction and returns in the opposite direction. Because of this, the magnetic lines of force are
oriented in opposite directions in each of the two segments of the loop. When places in the
stationary magnetic field of the field coils, one part of the armature coil is pushed in one
direction. The other part is pushed in the opposite direction, causing the coil and the shaft to
which it is mounted to rotate.
Each end of the armature winding is connected to one segment of the commutator
(Figure 18-13). Carbon brushes are connected to the terminal of the power supply. The brushes
contact the commutator contact conducting current to and from the armature coil.
As the armature coil turns through a half revolution, the contact of the brushes on the
commutator causes the current flow to reverse in the coil. The commutator segment attached to
each coil end has traveled past one brush and is now in contact with the other. In this way,
current flow is maintains constantly in one direction, while allowing the segment of the rotating
armature coils to reverse polarity as they rotate.

Figure 18-13 The armature of a starter motor.

 In a starter motor, many armature segments must be used, as one segment rotates past the
secondary magnetic field pole, another segment immediately takes its place. The turning motion
is made uniform and the torque coils (series motor); the field coils may be wired parallel or
shunted across the armature (shunt motors); or a combination of series and shunt wiring may be
used (compound motors) (Figure 18-14).

Figure 18-14 Starter motors are grouped according to how they are wired: (A) in series, (B) in
parallel (shunt), or (C) as a compound motor using both series and shunt coils.

The amount of turning torque from a starter motor depends on a number of factors is
current draw. The slower the motor turns, the more current it will draw. This is why a starter
motor will draw excessive amounts of current when the engine is very difficult to turn over or
crank. A motor needs more torque to crank a difficult-to-turn engine. The relationship between
the current draw and motor speed is explained by the principles of counter EMF (CEMF).
When the armature rotates within the field windings of a motor, conditions exist to exist
to induce a voltage in the armature. Voltage is induced any time a wire is passed through a
magnetic field. When the armature, which is a structure with many loops of wire, rotates past the
field windings, a small amount of voltage is induced. This voltage opposes the voltage supplied
by the battery to energize the armature. As a result, less current is able to flow through the
armature.
The faster the armature spins, the more induced voltage is present in the armature. The
more voltage in the armature, the more opposition there is to normal current flow to the
armature. The induced voltage in the armature opposes or is counter to the battery’s voltage. This
is why the induced voltage is called CEMF.
The effects of CEMF are quite predictable. When the armature of the motor turns slowly,
low amounts of voltage are induced and, therefore, low amounts of CEMF are present. The low
amount of CEMF allows a high amount of current draw. In fact, the only time a starter motor
draws its maximum amount of current is when the armature is not rotating.
 A series-wound motor develops its maximum torque at start-up and develops less torque
as speed increases. It is ideal for applications involving heavy starting loads.
Shunt or parallel-wound motors a constant speed at all operating loads. Compound
motors combine the characteristics of good starting torque with constant speed. The compound
design is particularly useful for applications in which heavy loads are suddenly applied. In a
starter motor, a shunt coil is frequently used to limit the maximum free speed at which the starter
can operate.

Starter Motor Drive Mechanisms The area in which starters differ most is in their drive
mechanisms used to crank the engine. The solenoid-actuated direct drive system has been
explained earlier in this chapter.
Some starters are planetary gear set to increase the torque of a starter motor. Planetary
gear sets offer the advantage of quite operation and compactness.

Positive Engagement Movable Pole Shoe Drive. Positive engagement movable pole shoe dive
starters are found mostly on older Ford products. In this design, the drive mechanism is an
integral part of the motor, and the drive pinion is engage with the flywheel before the motor is
energized.
When the ignition switch is moved to the start position, the system’s starter relay closes,
and full battery current is delivered to the starter. This current runs through the winding of a
movable pole shoe and through a set of contacts to ground. This generates magnetic force that
pulls down the movable pole shoe. It also forces the drive pinion to engage the flywheel ring
gear using a lever action and opens the contacts. A small holding coil helps keep the movable
shoe and lever assembly engaged during cranking. When the engine starts, an overrunning clutch
prevents the engine’s flywheel from spinning the position, both the pole shoe and lever return to
their original positions.

Solenoid-Actuated Gear Reduction Drive. Solenoid-actuated gear reduction-drive starters use

a solenoid to engage the pinion with the flywheel and to close the motor circuit. The starter
armature does not drive the pinion directly. Instead a gear set is used to reduce speed and
increase the turning torque of the pinion gear. The gear set may be as simple as a small gear
meshed with a larger one, or the reduction may take place through the use of a planetary gear set.
This design allows a small, high-speed motor to develop increased turning torque at a
satisfactory cranking rpm. The solenoid and starter drive operation is basically the same as in
solenoid-actuated direct drive systems.

Permanent Magnet Starter Motors The most recent change in starter motors has been in the
use of permanent magnets rather than electromagnets as field coils. Electrically, this starter
motor is simpler. It does not require current for field coils. Current is delivered directly to the
armature through the commutator and brushes. Figure 18-15 shows this type of starter motor.
This unit functions exactly as the other styles considered. Increased use of this style is expected
in the future as production costs are greatly reduced. Maintenance and testing procedures are the
same as for the other designs. Notice the use of a planetary gear reduction assembly on the front
of the armature. This assembly allows the armature to spin with increased torque, resulting in
improved starter cold-cranking performance.
 Figure 18-15 A permanent magnet-type starter assembly.

WARNING!

Permanent magnet starters require special handling because

the permanent magnet material is quite brittle and can be
destroyed with a sharp blow or if the starter is if the starter is
dropped.

Starter Drive A starter drive a pinion gear set that meshes with the flywheel on the engine’s
crankshaft (Figure 18-16). to prevent damage to the pinion gear or the flywheel’s ring gear, the
pinion gear must mesh with the ring gear before the starter motor rotates. To help ensure smooth
engagement, the end of the pinion gear is tapered (Figure 18-17). Also, the movement of the
armature must always be caused by the action of the motor, not the engine. For this reason,
starter drive assemblies include an overrunning clutch.
 Figure 18-16 A starter drive pinion gear is used to turn the engine’s flywheel.

Figure 18-17 The pinion gear teeth are tapered to allow for smooth engagement.

Overrunning Clutch. The overrunning clutch performs a very important job in protecting the
starter motor. When engine starts and runs, its speed increases. If the starter motor remained
connected to the engine through the flywheel, the starter motor would spin at very high speed,
destroying the armature winding.
To prevent this, the armature must disengage from the engine as soon as the engine turns
more rapidly than the starter has cranked it. However, with most starter designs the pinion
remains engaged until electricity stops flowing to the starter. In these cases, an overrunning
clutch is used to disengage the starter.
The clutch housing is internally splined to the starting motor armature shaft. The drive
pinion turns freely on the armature shaft. The drive pinion turns freely on the armature shaft
within the clutch housing. When the clutch housing is driven by the armature, the spring-loaded
rollers are forced into the small ends of their tapered slots and wedge tightly against the pinion
barrel. This locks the pinion and clutch housing solidly together, permitting the pinion to turn the
flywheel and thus, crank the engine.
When the engine starts (Figure 18-18), the flywheel spins the pinion faster than the
armature. This releases the rollers, unlocking the pinion gear the armature shaft. The pinion then
overruns the armature shaft freely until being pulled out of the mesh without stressing the starter
motor. The overrunning clutch is moved in and out of mesh by the starter drive linkage.

Figure 18-18 When the engine starts, the flywheel spins the pinion gear faster, which releases
the rollers from the wedge.

CONTROL CIRCUIT
The control circuit allows the driver to use a small amount of battery current to control the flow
of a large amount of current in the starting circuit.
The entire circuit usually consists of an ignition switch connected though normal-gauge
wire to the battery and the magnetic switch (solenoid or relay). When the ignition switch is
turned to the start position, a small amount of current flows through the coil of the magnetic
switch, closing it and allowing full current to flow directly to the starter motor. The ignition
switch performs other jobs beside controlling the starting circuit. It normally has at least four
positions: accessory, off, on (run), and start.

Starting Safety Switch

The starting safety switch, often called the neutral safety switch, is normally open switch that
prevents the starting system from operating when the transmission is in gear. This eliminates the
possibility of a situation that could make the vehicle lurch unexpectedly forward or backward.
Safety switches are more commonly used with automatic transmissions but are also used on
manual transmissions.
Starting safety switches can be located in either of two places within the control circuit.
One location is between the ignition switch and the relay or solenoid. In this position, the safety
switch must be closed before the current can flow to the relay or solenoid. A second location for
the safety switch is between the relay and ground. The switch must be closed before current can
flow from the relay to ground.
The safety switch used with an automatic transmission can be either an electrical switch
or mechanical device. Contact points on the electrical switch are closed only when the shift
selector is in park or neutral. The switch can be mounter near the shift selector or on the
transmission housing (Figure 18-19). The switch contact are wires in series with the control so
that no current can flow through the relay or solenoid unless the transmission is neutral or park.
Mechanical safety switches for automatic transmissions are simply device that physically block
the movement of the ignition key when the transmission is in a gear (Figure 18-20). The ignition
key can only be turns when the shift selector is in park or neutral.

Figure 18-19 A neutral safety switch attached to a transmission.

Figure 18-20 A mechanical linkage used to prevent starting the engine while the transmission is
in gear.
 The safety switches used with manual transmissions are usually electrical switched
mounted near the gear-shift lever or on the transmission housing. A clutch switch is a second
type of safety switch used with the manual transmissions. This electrical switch mounts on the
floor or firewall. Its contacts are closed only when the clutch pedal is fully depressed (Figure 18-
21).

Figure 18-21 The clutch pedal must be fully depressed to close the clutch switch and complete
the control circuit.

STARTING SYSTEM TESTING

As mentioned earlier, the starter motor is a special type of electrical mote designed for
intermitted use only. During testing, it should never e operated for more than 15 seconds without
resting for 2 minutes in between operation cycles to allow it to cool.

Preliminary Checks
The cranking output obtained from the motor is affected by the condition and charge of the
battery, the circuit’s wiring, and the engine’s cranking requirement.
The battery should be checked and charged as needed before testing the starting system.
Check the wiring and cables for clean, tight connections. Loose or dirty connections will
cause excessive voltage drops. Cables can be corroded by battery acid, and contact with the
engine parts and other metal surfaces can fray the cable insulation. Frayed insulation can cause a
dead short that can seriously damage come of the electrical units of the vehicle.
Cables should also be check to make they are not undersizes (too small a gauge) or too
long. Both conditions can limit the amount of current delivered to the starter motor.
When checking cables and wiring, always check any fusible links in the wiring. Most
late-model vehicles are equipped with maxi-fuses in place of the fusible links. Both should be
checked during the any routine starting system inspection. When a maxi-fuse or fusible link has
failed, always troubleshoot the system and locate the cause before replacing the fuse or link.
 Make certain the engine is filled with the proper weight oil as recommended by the
vehicle manufacturer. Heavier-than-specified oil when coupled with low operating temperatures
can drastically lower cranking speed to the point where the engine does not start and excessively
high current is drawn by the starter.
Check the ignition switch for loose mounting, damaged wiring, sticking contacts, and
loose connections. Check the wiring and mounting of the safety switch, if so equipped, and make
certain the switch is properly adjusted. Check the mounting, wiring, and connections of the
magnetic switch and starter motor. Also, be sure the starter pinion is properly adjusted.

Safety Precautions
Almost all starting system tests must be performed while the starter motor is cranking the engine.
However, the engine must not start and run during the test or the readings will be inaccurate
To prevent the engine from starting, the ignition switch can be bypassed with a remote
starter switch that allows current to flow to the starting system but not to the ignition system.
During testing, be sure the transmission is out of gear during cranking and the parking
brake is set. When servicing the battery, always follow safety precautions. Always disconnect the
battery ground cable before making or breaking connections at the system’s relay, solenoid, or
starter motor.

Troubleshooting Procedures
A systematic troubleshooting procedure is essential when servicing the starting system. Consider
the fact that nearly 80% of starters returned a defective on warranty claims work perfectly when
tested. This is often the result of poor or incomplete diagnosis of the starting and related charging
systems. Testing the starting system can be divided into area tests, which check voltage and
current in the entire system, and more detailed pinpoint tests, which target one particular
component or segment of the wiring circuit.

Starter Solenoid Problems

A Typical symptom of solenoid problems is the presence of a clicking noise when the ignition is
turned to the start position. The clicking noise is caused by the solenoid’s plunger moving back
and forth. Normally the plunger moves to the battery contacts and is held there by a magnetic
field until the ignition switch is moved from the start position.
In order for the solenoid’s plunger to move enough to complete the starter motor circuit
and remain in that position, a strong magnetic field must be present around the solenoid’s
windings. The strength of the magnetic field depends on the current flowing through the
windings. Therefore anything that would reduce current flow would affect the operation of the
solenoid. Common causes of the clicking are low battery voltage, low voltage available to the
solenoid, or an open in the hold-in winding.
Checking voltage at the battery and to the solenoid will help you identify the cause of the
problem. If the solenoid is bad, it can be replaced as a unit on some starter motors or replaced
with the starter motor on the designs.

Starting Safety Switches

Safety switches can be checked with a voltmeter or an ohmmeter. When the transmission is
placed in park or neutral or when the clutch pedal is depressed, the switch should be closed. In
other gear positions and when the clutch pedal is released, the switch should be open. Often these
switches just need to be properly adjusted to correct their action. This is not possible on all
vehicles. If adjustment does not correct the problem, the switch should be replaced.

Battery Load Test

A slow cranking engine often caused by insufficient current from the battery other problem such
as incorrect ignition timing. The battery must be able to crank the engine under all load battery
load test before checking the starting systems.

Cranking Voltage Test

The cranking voltage test measures the available voltage to the starter during cranking. To
perform the test, disable the ignition or use a remote starter switch to bypass the ignition switch.
Normally, the remote starter switch leads are connected to the positive terminal of the battery
and the starter terminal of the solenoid or relay (Figure 18-22). Refer to the service manual for
specific instructions on the model car area being tested. Connect the voltmeter’s negative lead to
a good chassis ground. Connect the voltmeter’s positive lead to the starter motor feed at the relay
or solenoid. Activate the starter motor and observe the voltage reading. Compare the reading to
the specifications given in the service manual. Normally, 9.6 volts is the minimum required.

Figure 18-22 Using a remote starter switch to bypass the control circuit and ignition system.

Test Conclusions If the reading above specifications but the starter motor still cranks poorly, the
starter motor is faulty. If the voltage reading is lower than the specifications, a cranking current
test and circuit resistance test should be performed to determine if the problem is caused by high
resistance in the starter circuit or an engine problem.

Cranking Current Test

The crank current test measures the amount of current the starter circuit draws to crank the
engine. Knowing the amount of current draw helps to identify the cause of starter system
problems.
 Nearly all starter current testers use an inductive pickup (Figure 18-23) to measure the
current draw. However, some earlier models were equipped with an ammeter that needed to be
connected in series with the battery.

Figure 18-23 Connecting the test leads of a typical charging/starting/battery tester.

To conduct the cranking current test, connect a remote starter switch or disable the
ignition prior to the testing. Follow the instructions given with the tester when connected to the
leads. Crank the engine for no more than 15 seconds. Observe the voltmeter. If the voltage drops
below 9.6 volts, a problem is indicated. Also, watch the ammeter and compare the reading to
specifications.
Table 18-1 summarizes the most probable causes of too low or high starter motor current
draw. If the problem appears to be caused by excessive resistance in the system, conduct an
insulated circuit resistance test.

TABLE 18-1 RESULT OF CRANKING CURRENT

TESTING
Problem Possible Cause
Low current draw Undercharged or defective battery.
Excessive resistance in circuit due to
faulty components or connections.
High current draw Short in starter motor.
Mechanical resistance due to
binding engine or starter system
component failure or misalignment.

Insulated Circuit Resistance Test

The complete starter circuit is made up of the insulated circuit and the ground circuit. The
insulated circuit includes all of the high current cables and connections from the battery to the
starter motor.
 To test the insulated circuit for high resistance, disable the ignition or bypass the ignition
switch with a remote starter switch. Connect the positive (+) lead of the voltmeter to the battery’s
positive (+) terminal post or nut. By connecting the lead to the cable, the point of high resistance
(cable-to-post connection) may be bypassed. Connect the negative (-) lead of the voltmeter to the
starter terminal at the solenoid or relay. Crank the engine and record the voltmeter reading. If the
reading is within specifications (usually 0.2 to 0.6 volt drop), the insulated circuit does not have
excessive resistance. Proceed to the ground circuit resistance test outlined in the next section. If
the reading indicates a voltage loss above specifications, move the negative lead of the tester
progressively closer to the battery, cranking the engine at each test point. Normally, a voltage
drop of 0.1 volt is the maximum allowed across a length of cable.
Photo Sequence 13 goes through the correct procedure for conduction a voltage drop test
on a typical starter circuit.

Test Conclusion When excessive drop is observed, the trouble is located between that point and
the preceding point tested. It is either a damaged cable or poor connection, an undersized wire, or
possibly a bad contact assembly within the solenoid. Repair or replace any damages wiring or
faulty connections. Refer to Table 18-2 to find the maximum allowable voltage drops for the
starter circuit.

TABLE 18-2 MAXIMUM VOLTAGE DROPS

Each large cable 0.1 volt
Each connection 0.1 volt
Each small wire 0.2 volt
Starter relay 0.3 volt

Starter Relay Bypass Test

The starter relay bypass test is a simple way to determine if the relay is operational. First, disable
the ignition. Connect a heavy jumper cable between the battery’s positive (+) terminal and the
starter relay’s starter terminal. This bypasses the relay. When the connection is made, the engine
should crank.
CAUTION!

Make sure the vehicle’s transmission is in park or

neutral before doing this test. The cranking starter can
move the vehicle, which could injure you and others
around you.

Test Conclusions If the engine cranks with the jumper installed and did not before the relay was
bypassed, the starter relay is defective and should be replaced.
Ground Circuit Resistance Test
The ground circuit provides the return path to the battery for the current supplied to the starter by
the insulated circuit. This circuit includes the starter-to-engine, engine-to-chassis, and chassis-to-
battery ground terminal connections.
To test the ground circuit for high resistance, disable the ignition, or bypass the ignition
switch with a remote starter switch. Refer to Figure 18-24 for the proper test connection. Crank
the engine and record the voltmeter reading.

Figure 18-24 The setup for checking voltage drop across the ground circuit.

Test Conclusions Good results would be less than a 0.2 volt drop for a 12-volt system. A
voltage drop in excess of this indicates the presence of a poor ground circuit connection,
resulting from a loose starter motor bolt, a poor battery ground terminal post connector, or a
damaged or undersized ground system wire from the battery to the engine block. Isolate the
cause of excessive voltage drop in the same manner as recommended in the insulated circuit
resistance test by moving the positive (+) voltmeter lead progressively closer to the battery. If the
ground circuit tests out satisfactorily and a starter problem exists, move on to the control circuit
test.

Voltage Drop Test of the Control Circuit

The control circuit test examines all the wiring and components used to control the magnetic
switch, whether it is a relay, a solenoid acting as a relay, or a starter motor mounted solenoid.
High resistance in the solenoid switch circuit reduces current flow through the solenoid
windings, which can cause improper function of the solenoid. In some cases functioning of the
solenoid switch general results in the burning of the solenoid switch contacts, causing high
resistance in the starter motor circuit.
Check the vehicle wiring diagram, if possible, to identify all control circuit components.
These normally include the ignition switch, safety switch, the starter solenoid winding, or a
separate relay.
 To perform the test, disable the ignition system. Connect the positive meter lead to the
battery’s positive terminal and the negative meter lead to the starter switch terminal solenoid or
relay. Crank the engine and record the voltmeter reading.

Test Conclusions Generally, good results would be less than 0.5 volt, indicating that the circuit
condition is good. If the voltage reading exceeds 0.5 volt, it is usually an indication of excessive
resistance. However, on certain vehicles a slightly higher voltage loss may be normal.
Identify the point of high resistance by moving the negative test lead back to the battery’s
positive terminal, eliminating one wire or component at a time.
A reading of more than 0.1 volt across any one wire or switch is usually an indicator of
trouble. If a high reading is obtained across the safety switch used on an automatic transmission,
check the adjustment of the switch according to the manufacturer’s service manual. Clutch
operated safety switches cannot be adjusted. They must be replaced.

Test Starter Drive Components

This test detects a slipping starter drive without removing the starter from the vehicle. First,
disable the ignition system or bypass the ignition switch with a remote starter switch. Turn the
ignition switch to start and hold it in this position for several seconds. Repeat the procedure at
least three times to detect an intermittent condition.

Test Conclusions If the starter cranks the engine smoothly, that is an indication that the starter
drive is functioning properly. to If the engine stops cranking and the starter spins noisily at high
speed, the drive is slipping and should be replaced.
If the drive is not slipping, but the engine is not being cranked, inspect the flywheel for
missing or damaged teeth. Remove the starter from the vehicle and check its drive components.
Inspect the pinion gear teeth for wear and damage. Test the overrunning clutch should turn freely
in one direction, but not in the other. A bad clutch will turn freely in the overrun direction or not
at all. If a drive locks up, it can destroy the starter to spin at more than 15 times engine speed.
The weak point in the movable pole starter is the pole shoe that pulls in toward the
armature to engage the starter. This starter requires a minimum of 10.5 volts and high amperes to
operate. Otherwise, it simply clicks and loses does not engage.
As a movable pole starter wears, the pivot bushing sometimes hangs up and prevents the
movable poles shoe from being pulled down. When this happens, the starter motor will not spin
and the drive will not engage with the flywheel.
A similar problem can occur on solenoid-actuated starters. If the solenoid is too weak to
overcome the force of the return springs, the starter does not operate.

Removing the Starter Motor

If you testing indicates that the starter must be removed, the first step is to disconnect the
negative cable at the battery and wrap the clamp with the electrical tape. It may be necessary to
place the vehicle on a lift to gain access to the starter. Before lifting the vehicle, disconnect all
wires fasteners, and so on that can be reached from under the hood.
Disconnect the wires leading to the solenoid terminals. To avoid confusion when
reinstalling the starter, it is wise to mark the wires so they can reinstall on their correct terminals.
 On some vehicles you may need to disconnect the exhaust system to be able to remove
the starter. Loosen the starter mounting bolts and remove all but one. Support the starter out and
away from the flywheel. Once the starter is free, remove the last bolt and the starter.
Once the starter is out, inspect the starter drive pinion gear and the flywheel ring gear
(Figure 18-25). When the teeth of the starter drive are abnormally worn, make sure you inspect
the entire circumference of the flywheel. If the starter drive or the flywheel ring gear show sighs
of wear or damage, they must be replaced.

Figure 18-25 Starter drive and flywheel ring gear wear patterns.

Reverse the procedure to install the starter. Make sure all electrical connections are tight.
If you are installing a new or manufactured starter, sand away the paint at the mounting point
before install it. Also, make sure you have a good hold on the starter while installing it.
Many General Motors starters use shims between the starter and the mounting pad
(Figure 18-26). To check this clearance, install the starter and insert a flat blade screwdriver into
the access slot on the side of the drive housing. Pry the drive pinion gear into the engaged
position. Use a wire feeler gauge or a piece of 0.020-inch (.5080-mm) diameter wire to check the
clearance between the gears (Figure 18-27).
 Figure 18-26 Shimming the starter to obtain proper pinion-to-ring gear clearance.

Figure 18-27 Checking the clearance between the pinion gear and the ring gear.

If the clearance between the two gears is incorrect shims will need to be added or
subtracted to bring the clearance within specs. If the clearance is excessive, the starter will
produce a high-pitched whine while it is cranking the engine. If the clearance is too small, the
starter will make a high-pitched whine after the engine starts and the ignition switch is returned
to the RUN position.

Free Speed (No-Load) Test

Every starter should be bench tested after it is removed and before it is installed. To conduct a
free speed or no load test on a starter, follow these steps:
 PROCEDURE
Free Speed or No-Load Test

STEP 1 Clamp the starter firmly in a bench vise.

STEP 2 Connect an ammeter to the battery cable and the starter to a battery. This should
cause the motor to run.
STEP 3 Check current draw and motor speed and compare them to specifications. If they
meet specs when the battery has at least 11.5 volts, the starter is working properly.

If the current draw was excessive or the motor speed too low, the excessive physical
resistance, which be caused by worn bushing or bearings, a shorted armature, shorted field
windings or bent armature.
If the was no current draw and the starter did not rotate the problem could be caused by
open field windings, open armature coils, broken brushed, or broken brush springs.
Low armature speed with low current draw indicates excessive resistance. There may be
a poor connection between the commutator and the brushes, or the connections to the starter are
bad. If the speed and current draw are both high, check for a shorted field winding.
Operation Sheet Unit Service Starting Systems
No. 1 Module Servicing Starting Systems

LO1: Test systems/components and identify faults

VOLTAGE DROP TESTING OF A STARTER CIRCUIT

The tools required to measure the voltage Connect the

positive lead of the meter to
drop at various points within the starter the positive battery post. If at
all possible
circuit are fender covers, a DMM, and a do not connect it to the
battery clamp.
remote starter switch.

Connect the negative lead to the main Set the voltmeter to

the scale that is close
battery connection at the starter. to, but greater than, battery
voltage.
Disable the ignition and/or connect a remote Crank the engine and
read the voltmeter.
starter switch. This reading shows the
voltage drop on the
positive side of the starter circuit.

This reading showed excessive resistance in Crank the engine and

observe drop the
the circuit. To locate the resistance, move the reading on the meter. This is
the voltage
meter’s negative lead to the next location drop across the positive
circuit from the
toward the battery. In this case it is the battery to the output of the relay.
starter side of the starter relay.
There is still too much voltage drop, so we Crank the engine and
observe the reading
continue test by moving the negative lead on the meter. This is the
voltage drop a
to the battery side of the relay. across the cable from the battery
to the
relay. Notice that hardly any
voltage was
dropped. This cable is okay.

Now connect the meter across the relay Ignore any voltage
reading you may have
with the red lead on the battery side and at this point.
black lead on the starter side.
Crank the engine and observe the reading on The reading was higher
than normal;
the meter. This voltage drop across the contact therefore the starter relay
has high
inside the relay. resistance and needs to be
replaced.

Self Check Unit Service Starting Systems

No. 1 Module Servicing Starting Systems

LO1: Test systems/components and identify faults

REVIEW QUESTIONS

1. Which of the following is not part of the high current starter circuit?
a. battery c. starter motor
b. starting safety switch d. relay/solenoid

2. Which of the following could result in a hard starting condition?

a. corroded battery cables
 b. excessive CCA capacity
c. heavy-gauge battery cables
d. all of the above

3. Which of the following is not a part of the starter control circuit?

a. ignition switch
b. starter relay
c. ballast resistor
d. starting safety switch

4. Which of the following test would be performed to check for high resistance in the
battery cables?
a. cranking voltage test
b. insulated circuit resistance test
c. starter relay bypass test
d. ground circuit resistance test

5. If the solenoid clicks trying to crank the engine with the starter, which of the following is
not a probable cause?
a. a faulty neutral safety switch
b. low battery voltage
c. low voltage available to the solenoid
d. an open in the hold-in winding

QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC II

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Service Starting Systems
MODULE TITLE : SERVICING STARTING SYSTEMS

Learning Outcome #2: Repair charging system associated components

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
 1. Starting systems are repaired without causing damage to any
workplace property or vehicle.
2. Information is accessed and interpreted from appropriate
manufacturer specifications.
3. Repairs, component replacement and adjustments are carried
out using appropriate tools, technique and materials.

Resources:

 Service Manual
 Basic hand tools
 Cleaning Solvent
 Fender cover
 Hoist or Safety stand
 Lubricant

Information Sheet Unit Service Starting Systems

No. 2 Module Servicing Starting Systems

LO2: Repair charging system associated components

STARTER MOTOR SERVICE

If the starter is bad, it should be replaces or rebuilt. Often technicians opt for replacing it rather
than spending the time to repair or rebuilt it. This decision, however, depends on a number of
things, including the customer’s desire, shop’s policies, availability or repair parts, cost, and
time.
 Photo Sequence 14 covers the typical procedure for disassembling a Delco-Remy starter.
Always refer to the manufacturer’s procedures when repairing a starter.

WARNING!

ue on the parts can ignite and cause a fire and/or destroy the starter. Use denature alcohol compressed air regulated to 25 psi (17

The starter should be cleaned and inspected as it is disassembled. Inspect the end frame
and drive housing for cracks or broken or frayed wires. Inspect the drive gear for worn teeth and
proper overrunning clutch operation. The commutator should be free of flat spots and should not
be excessively burned. Check the brushes for wear. Replace them if worn specifications.

Starter Motor Component Tests

With the starter motor disassembles, test can be conducted to determine the reason for failure.
The armature and field coils should be checked for shorts and opens first. Normally, if the
armature or coils are bad, the entire starter is replaced.

Field Coils Tests The field coil and frame assembly can be wired in a number of different ways.
Accurate testing of the coils can only be done if you follow the specific guidelines of the
manufacturer or if you know how the coils are wired. To do this, look at the wiring diagram and
figure out where the coils get their power and where the coils get their power and where they
ground. When you have this information, you will know if the coils are wired in series or
parallel.
The usual way to check the field coils for opens is to connect an ohmmeter between the
coil’s power feed wire and the field coil brush lead (Field 18-28). If there is a short to ground,
connect the ohmmeter from the field coil brush lead and the starter (field frame) housing. If there
is continuity, the field coil is shorted to the housing.

Figure 18-28 Checking a field coil for an open.

Armature Tests The armature should be inspected for wear or damage caused by contact with
the permanent magnets or field windings. If there is wear or damage, check the pole shoes for
looseness and repair as necessary. A damaged armature must be replaced.
Next, check the commutator of the armature. If the surface is dirty or blunt, clean it with
emery cloth or cut it down with an armature lathe. Measure the diameter of the commutator with
an outside micrometer or vernier caliper. If the diameter is less than specifications require,
replace the armature.
Measure commutator runout by mounting the armature in V-blocks. Position a dial
indicator so that it rides on the center of the commutator. If the commutator runout is beyond
specs, replace the armature.
Check the depth of the insulating material (mica) between the commutator segments
(Figure18-29). Check each one and compare the depth with specifications. If the necessary,
undercut the mica with the proper tool or a hacksaw to achieve the proper depth. If the depth
cannot be achieved, replace the armature.

Figure 18-29 Check the depth of the mica between the commutator segments.

Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator (Figure 18-30). If an open
circuit exists between ant segments, replace the armature
Place the armature in a tester, commonly called a growler. Hold a hacksaw blade on the
armature core (Figure 18-31). If the blade is attached to the armature’s core or vibrates while the
core is turned, the armature is shorted and must be replaced.
With an ohmmeter, check the armature windings for a short to ground. Hold one meter
lead to a commutator segment and the other armature core. Also check between the armature
shaft and the commutator. If there is continuity at either of these two test points, the armature
needs to be replaced.
 Figure 18-30 Checking the armature for an open.

Figure 18-31 Testing an armature on a growler.

Brush Inspection Brush inspection begins with an ohmmeter check of the positive brush and the
other lead to a negative brush. There should be no continuity between them. If there is, replace
the brush holder. Install the brushes into the brush holder and slip the unit over the commutator.
Using a spring scale, measure the spring lifts off the brush. Compare the tension specs. If the
tension is incorrect, replace the spring or the brush holder assembly.
Measure the length of the brushes (Figure 18-32). If the brushes are not within specs,
replace the brush or the brush holder assembly. To seat new brushes after installing in the brush
holder, slip a piece of fine sandpaper between the brush and the commutator. Then rotate the
armature. This will put the contour of the commutator on the face of the brushes.
 Figure 18-32 Measure the length of the brushes.

Bearings and Bushings Check each bearing and bushing on the starter drive. If the teeth are
chipped, excessively worn, or damaged in any way, replace the drive assembly. Also check the
teeth on the starter ring gear on the engine’s flywheel. Often the same thing that caused damage
to the starter drive will damaged the teeth on the flywheel. If either or both are damaged, they
should be replaced.
To check the operation of the overrunning clutch, slide the drive and clutch assembly
onto the armature shaft. Rotate the clutch in both directions. Check its movement. It should
rotate smoothly in one direction and lock in the other (Figure 18-33). If it does not lock in either
direction or if it locks or barely moves in both directions, the assembly must be replaced.

Figure 18-33 Check the overrunning clutch by attempting to rotate in both directions.
Operation Sheet Unit Service Starting Systems
No. 2 Module Servicing Starting Systems

LO2: Repair charging system associated components

TYPICAL PROCEDURE FOR DIASSSEMBLING A DELCO-REMY STARTER

Always have a clean and organized work Clean the case.
area. The tools required for disassembling
this starter are: rags, assorted wrenches,
snap-ring pliers, flat blade screwdriver,
ball peen hammer, plastic head hammer,
punch, scribe, safety glasses, and small press.

Scribe reference marks at each of the Disconnect the field coil

connection at the
starter end housings and the frame. solenoid’s M terminal.
Remove the two screws that attach the Rotate the solenoid until the
locking
solenoid to the starter drive housing. flange of the solenoid is free. Then
remove
the solenoid.

Remove the through bolts from the end Remove the end frame.
frame.

Remove the frame Remove the armature. Note: On

some units
it may be necessary to remove the
shift
lever from the drive housing before
removing the armature.
Place a 5/8 inch deep socket over the Tap the end of the socket with a
plastic
armature shaft unit it contacts the retaining faced hammer to drive the
retainer toward
ring of the starter drive. the armature. Move it only far
enough to
access the snap ring.

Remove the snap ring. Remove the retainer from the

shaft and
remove the clutch and spring from
the
shaft. Press out the drive housing
bushing
and the end-frame bushing.
 Self Check Unit Service Starting Systems
No.2 Module Servicing Starting Systems

LO2: Repair charging system associated components

REVIEW QUESTIONS

1. A cranking current test is performed, and the amperage is found to be less than specification.
Technician A says the starter is bad and it should be replaced. Technician B insists on testing
the resistance of the cables, grounds, and connections. Who is correct?
a. Technician A c. Both A and B
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B

2. A control circuit test may uncover which of the following conditions?

a. high resistance in the solenoid switch circuit
b. worn starter motor brushes
c. loose battery cable connection
d. short in the starter armature windings

3. An engine cranks slowly. Technician A says a possible cause of the problem is poor starter
circuit connections. Technician B says a possible cause is incorrectly set ignition timing.
Who is correct?
a. Technician A c. Both A and B
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B

4. If a ground circuit test reveals a voltage drop of more than 0.2 volt, the problem may be .
a. a loose starter motor mounting bolt
b. a poor battery ground terminal post connector
c. a damaged battery ground cable
d. all of the above

5. While discussing armature testing. Technician A says that to test for shorts, place the
armature in a growler and hold a thin metal baled parallel to the armature. If the blade
vibrates while the armature is turned, there is a short. Technician B says an ohmmeter can be
used to test for shorts. Who is correct?
a. Technician A c. Both A and B
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B
 Institutional Unit Service Starting Systems
Assessment Module Servicing Starting Systems

WRITTEN TEST:

1. True or false? Clean battery cable connections are an important part of proper starter
motor operation.
2. Technician A says a faulty starter solenoid could cause the starter motor not to work.
Technician B says a bad ground cable could cause the starter motor not to work. Who is
correct?
a. Technician A c. Both A and B
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B

3. True or false? An ohmmeter is used to check the starter circuit.

4. True or false? A voltmeter can be used to check the starter circuit.
5. Technician A says that a bad ground connection at the battery can cause the starter motor
to draw higher than normal amounts of current. Technician B says a bad connection at the
battery’s positive terminal will reduce the amount of voltage available at the starter. Who
is correct?
a. Technician A c. Both A and B
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B

6. Technician A says an infinite reading on an ohmmeter connected across two segments of

an armature’s commutator means the armature windings are shorted. Technician B says
an ohmmeter reading of zero when the leads are connected from the core or shaft of the
armature to a segment of the commutator windings are okay. Who is correct?
a. Technician A c. Both A and B
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B

7. Technician a says that when the starter motor spins but the solenoid does not engage the
engine’s flywheel, the starter control circuit has a fault. Technician B says there will be
higher than normal current draw by the starter if the motor does not spins as fast as it
should. Who is correct?
a. Technician A c. Both A and B
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B

8. List four major components of the starting circuit.

a.
b.
 c.
d.

9. Where is a starter motor typically grounded?

10. Describe the function the neutral safety switch plays in the starter circuit.
 Job Unit Service Starting Systems
Sheet Module Servicing Starting Systems

Removing, Inspecting, and Replacing a Starter Motor

Objective
Upon completion of this job sheet, you will have demonstrated the ability to remove, inspect, and
replace a starter motor. You must know how to perform these tasks in order to pass the
Competency Assessment in Service Starting Systems

Tools and Materials

Appropriate screwdrivers Lubricant
Appropriate wrenches Shop towel(s)
Cleaning solvent Service manual
Fender covers Support brackets (if applicable)
Hoist or safety stands Tags

Protective Clothing
Safety goggles or glasses with side shields
Steel-toed shoes

Description of Vehicle:
Year Make Model
VIN Engine Type and Size
Mileage

Describe the general operating condition:

PROCEDURE

1. Place fender covers on the vehicle. Disconnect the battery » Task completed
ground cable.
 WARNING: Never attempt to remove the starter without first
disconnecting the battery.

2. Raise and support the vehicle using a hoist or safety stands. » Task completed

3. If the required to access the starter, remove the front wheels. » Task completed
Loosen or remove the exhaust pipes and others components
that block access to the starter.
4. Disconnect and tag all wires from the starter motor and/or » Task completed
solenoid.

5. Remove the heat shields and support brackets. Remove all » Task completed
mountings bolts and shims that secure the starter to the
engine, and lift out the starter.

6. Visually inspect the starter bushing and armature shaft bearing » Task completed
area. Inspect the pinion gear and overrunning clutch drive unit.
Inspect the pinion housing for cracks. If a problem is found
replace the starter motor. Record your inspection results on the
accompanying “Report Sheet for Starter Motor Inspection and
Replacement.”

7. Check the overrunning clutch pinion clearance by either » Task completed

forcing (where possible) the solenoid arm to the fully applied
position or by energizing the starter solenoid.

8. When the solenoid has moved the pinion to the fully » Task completed
engaged position, push the pinion back to remove all
slack. Measure the clearance between pinion and
pinion stop (Figure 18-1). Record the results on the
report sheet.

Figure 18-1. Measuring the clearance between the pinion gear

and the pinion stop.
9. Lubricate the starter bushing and armature shaft with a few » Task completed
drops of 20 weight oil.

10. A shop towel, slightly dampened with clean solvent, may be » Task completed
used to wipe the starter housing if it oily. If no oil is present,
use a soft brush or a clean, dry rag.

11. Attach the heat shield and support brackets to the new or » Task completed
serviced starter motor. Some starters use a sealer in some
locations to prevent entry of dust and water. When
assembling parts, apply a nonhardening-type sealer. Where
grommets are used, they must be in good condition and properly
inserted.

12. Install the motor to the engine using all mounting bolts. » Task completed
Torque the bolts to specifications.

13. Check for properly flywheel (Figure 18-2). Many » Task completed
starter designs have no adjustment for pinion clearance.
When it is wrong, correct it by installing new parts.

Figure 18-2. Checking for properly flywheel engagement.

14. Reconnect all wires to the solenoid and/or » Task completed

motor terminals. Remounts or tighten any
removed or loosened parts.

15. Lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery ground » Task completed
cable. Test the starter for proper operation.

16. Remove the fender covers. Clean work area and » Task completed
return vehicle to designated area.

Problems Encountered
Instructor’s Comments

REPORT SHEET FOR STARTER MOTOR INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT

Serviceable Corrective Action
1. Visual inspection
Bushing
Armature shaft bearing
Pinion gear
Overrunning clutch
Pinion housing
Flywheel ring gear teeth
Clearance/Torque
2. Actual pinion clearance
3. Starter-motor-to-block-bolt
torque
Conclusion and Recommendations
 Self Check Unit Service Starting Systems
No. 1 Module Servicing Starting Systems

ANSWER KEY

1. b. The starting safety switch is part of the control circuit, not part of the high-current
circuit.
2. a. Corroded battery cables have too much voltage drop and thus reduce available voltage
for the starter.
3. c. A ballast resistor is sometimes used in ignition circuits.
4. b and b. Both the insulated circuit and the ground circuit should be checked for high
resistance in the battery cables.
5. a. If the solenoid clicks while trying to crank the engine, the neutral safety switch is closed
and would not be a probable cause of the problem.
 Self Check Unit Service Starting Systems
No. 2 Module Servicing Starting Systems

ANSWER KEY

1. b. A lower than average cranking current is usually the result of high resistance, and the
battery cables, connections, and grounds should be checked first. A bad starter is frequently
indicated by a higher, not a lower, cranking current.
2. a. A starter control circuit test could uncover high resistance in the solenoid switch circuit.
The starter brushes, battery cables, and armature windings are tested using other tests.
3. c. Both technicians are correct. Corroded connections and overly advanced ignition timing
can causes the engine to crank slowly.
4. d. all of the above
5. c. Both technicians are correct. Both test can be used when checking an armature.
 Institutional Unit Service Starting Systems
Assessment Module Servicing Starting Systems

ANSWER KEY

1. True
2. c
3. False
4. True
5. c
6. d
7. b
8. a. Starter motor
b. Starter relay
c. Starter solenoid
d. Starter drive
9. A typical starter motor is grounded through its mounting on the engine and/or transmission.
10. The neutral safety switch allows the starter motor to be used only when the vehicle shift lever
is in NEUTRAL or PARK.