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Certified environmental approaches in Bordeaux

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Table of Contents

Introduction.......................................................................................................................3
Certification Options..........................................................................................................3
I. Sustainable certifications...................................................................................................3
a. International Organisation of Standardisation (ISO)...........................................................................4
b. Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE)...............................................................................................4
c. Terra Vitis (TV)....................................................................................................................................4
II. Organic certifications.........................................................................................................4
III. Biodynamic certifications...................................................................................................5
a. Demeter.............................................................................................................................................5
b. Syndicat International Des Vignerons en Culture Bio-dynamique (Biodyvin).....................................5

Changes to be more environmentally considerate..............................................................5

I. Measure: soil.....................................................................................................................5
II. Measure: chemical aversion...............................................................................................6
III. Measure: water..................................................................................................................7
IV. Measure: waste and energy...........................................................................................7
V. Future measures................................................................................................................8
Bordeaux in the future.......................................................................................................8
I. The threat of climate change..............................................................................................8
II. Measures to combat climate change..................................................................................9
a. Preventative measures.......................................................................................................................9
b. Coping measures................................................................................................................................9

Conclusion........................................................................................................................10
Reference list...................................................................................................................11
 21061673

Introduction
Bordeaux is an immense wine region with over 110,000 hectares under vine and 5,700
growers.1 Due to maritime climate and high-water activity, disease pressure has been a
notable concern for Bordeaux producers.2 As such, certified environmental approaches
towards viticulture were not seen as an important pursuit for producers.3 However, with the
effects of climate change more evident than ever, these sentiments have changed. Recent
statistics showcase that 65% of total vineyard area (TVA) satisfies a certified environmental
approach in 2020.4

The Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux’s (CIVB) was founded in 1948 and is the
biggest organisation in French wine.5 The CIVB represents three actors: wine growers, wine
merchants and brokers.6 Building on the aforementioned momentum, the CIVB has set the
ambitious target of having 100% of the TVA meet some form of certified environmental
approach by 2030.7

As part of a qualitative exploration of environmental certification in Bordeaux, three aspects

will be of focus. The first aspect is the certification options available for Bordeaux wineries.
Next, the specific winery adaptations made to be more environmentally considerate in
Bordeaux will be addressed. Finally, insight into the long-term future of the Bordeaux wine
region and wines will be provided.

Certification Options
The term environmental approach is not protected, and as such, a myriad of certification
options are available to Bordeaux producers.8 Noting the potential choice paralysis, the CIVB
created the Système de Management Environnemental (SME) in 2010 to assist with the
complexity and expenses associated with certification.9 The SME encourages collaboration
between adjacent estates to improve performance and achieve certifications. 10 Sustainable
certifications, at the risk of creating a false hierarchy, form the most accessible certified
environmental approaches. They will be explored first before discussing the more onerous
organic and biodynamic certifications available.

I. Sustainable certifications
Sustainable agriculture allows the use of some synthetic chemicals, but constrains the
varieties and quantities administered.11 These synthetic chemicals include herbicides,
pesticides and, of special relevance to Bordeaux, fungicides.12 The following sustainable
certificates incorporate more than chemical control, but also the principles of agro-ecology
and biodiversity promotion.

1
(MW, 2022).
2
(Suter et al., 2019).
3
(Mora, 2014).
4
(MW, 2022).
5
(CirculAgronomie, 2019).
6
(CirculAgronomie, 2019).
7
(Shakeshaft, 2023).
8
(King, 2013).
9
(Chateau Couhins Lurton, n.d.).
10
(Chateau Couhins Lurton, n.d.).
11
(Noël, 2009).
12
(Barker and Gimingham, 1911).
 21061673

a. International Organisation of Standardisation (ISO)

ISO is the largest cross-industry independent certification organisation.13 Their ISO 14001
certification is a full management system. They evaluate the impact of the winery on the
environment at every stage and emphasise efficient use of resources.14 The ISO certification
certifies the process a wine company employs and not their product.15 As such, no emblem
can be included on a wine bottle. ISO certification is respected in the industry and often
forms part of the producer’s website.16

b. Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE)

In 2011, the La Commission Nationale de Certification Environnementale (CNCE) was
born.17 The CNCE is a joint venture between the government, farming unions, environmental
organisations, the agri-food industry and consumer representatives.18 In 2012 they launched
the HVE, which focussed on sustainability in four areas: biodiversity, conservation, plant-
protection and input management. The HVE has three progressive levels culminating in
certification. The levels work as scaffolds to encourage application of environmental rules
and adoption of techniques to reduce environmental impact. They conclude with certification
when the environmental impact on biodiversity and level of outputs are measured. The HVE
certified emblem can be placed on wine bottles.19 It should be noted that HVE and ISO
certifications can, and often do, complement each other.

c. Terra Vitis (TV)

TV is a federation of French wine growers accounting for nearly 5% of French TVA.20 In
2021, approximately 10% of its Bordeaux producers were part of the federation.21 The TV
certification is purely viticultural and necessitates HVE certification. 22 TV is an independent
group without government influence and its rules are updated yearly. The audit of members is
conducted by an independent organisation, OCCASIA.23 Their audit requires adherence to
over 80 technical specifications.24 Whilst no products beyond the AOC mandates are banned,
usage of any product anywhere on the property requires justification.25 No blanket
preventative treatments are allowed, and each product application must be justified zonally. 26

II. Organic certifications

Organic certification is acknowledged by the Agriculture Biologique (AB) placed on the back
of wine bottles.27 The AB label and requirements are regulated by the government department
l’Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), which also controls AOC laws in
France.28 Nitrogen-based fertilisers are banned.29 Biodynamic and naturally derived inputs are

13
(ISO, 2015).
14
(ISO, 2015).
15
(ISO, 2015).
16
(Barker and Gimingham, 1911).
17
(Xiclun, 2017).
18
(Xiclun, 2017).
19
(Xiclun, 2017).
20
(Fédération Nationale Terra Vitis, n.d.).
21
(Fédération Nationale Terra Vitis, n.d.).
22
(Fédération Nationale Terra Vitis, n.d.).
23
(Narby, 2022d).
24
(Narby, 2022d).
25
(Narby, 2022d).
26
(Narby, 2022d).
27
(Ministre de l’Agriculture et de la Souveraineté alimentaire, n.d.).
28
(Ministre de l’Agriculture et de la Souveraineté alimentaire, n.d.).
29
(Narby, 2022a).
 21061673

allowed, such as copper and sulphur.30 However even their use is limited to set amounts,
which vary depending on the vintage conditions. Furthermore, practices in the winery are
restricted with a low level of sulphites mandatory and only organic products permitted.31

AB certification requires a minimum of three years without synthetic chemicals. To obtain

certification, an independent organisation must evaluate the vineyard. The most common
organisation to provide evaluation is Ecocert.32 In the second year of conversion, the label of
the evaluating organisation can be displayed on the wine bottle. After certification is attained,
the Eurofeuille must be present on the bottle.33 The producer can choose to add the AB logo.34

III. Biodynamic certifications

a. Demeter
The organisation responsible for biodynamic certification is Demeter. Founded in 1924,
Demeter concerns not just grapes but agriculture more broadly.35 In 2020, the 57 different
biodynamic Demeter organisations were combined to form Demeter International.36 Demeter
requires organic viticulture as a baseline and imposes further requirements including humus
health measures, preparation use, and adherence to solar and moon cycles.37 The goal of
biodynamic viticulture is to make the vineyard a self-sustainable, nutritious environment for
vines. As with AB certification, an independent organisation must evaluate the compliance
with Demeter regulations to meet certification requirements. 38 In 2020, 72 producers in
Bordeaux were certified biodynamic.39

b. Syndicat International Des Vignerons en Culture Bio-dynamique (Biodyvin)

Biodyvin is a European organisation for vineyards to join that are certified Demeter
biodynamic by Ecocert evaluation.40 They adhere to a charter with further stipulations around
winemaking.41

Changes to be more environmentally considerate

This section will explore the measures of wineries in Bordeaux to be more environmentally
considerate, the commercial and environmental benefits of these measures and aspirational
future measures that wineries aim to take.

I. Measure: soil
In present day Bordeaux, many producers have made efforts to increase knowledge of their
vineyard soil composition and to strengthen the microbial presence in their soils.42 There is a
widespread understanding that this contributes to a good wine and reduces the necessity for
synthetic chemicals. 43

30
(Narby, 2022a).
31
(Narby, 2022a).
32
(Narby, 2022a).
33
(Landwirtschaft, 2021).
34
(Narby, 2022a).
35
(Demeter International, n.d.).
36
(Demeter International, n.d.).
37
(Demeter International, n.d.).
38
(Demeter International, n.d.).
39
(Feilden, 2022).
40
(Biodyvin, n.d.).
41
(Biodyvin, n.d.).
42
(Tahon and Batt, 2021).
43
(Tahon and Batt, 2021).
 21061673

Château Luchey-Halde on Bordeaux’s left bank has been substantially decreasing their
carbon footprint through a range of soil-focused adaptations.44 In the early 2000s, Luchey-
Halde had a pedological study conducted. This study determined which varieties to plant on
corresponding soil types; allowing for healthy vines with minimal synthetics.45 Their efforts
to create healthy soil include tillage, planting 15 different tree species and utilising hedges.
The goal was to increase microbiome diversity and limit phytosanitary spread in the air. 46 To
showcase their respect for the environment, and the positive impact they have on the land, in
2020 they begun eco-pasturing with the conservatory of Aquataine breeds.47 By doing so the
land is naturally nourished, whilst simultaneously allowing the protection of endangered
native breeds. Besides their own commitments, they sought certification of various sources:
ISO 14001 and HVE.48

The efforts made by producers such as Château Luchey-Halde to attain certification have
been beneficial to the commercial side of their business as well. In the present day,
consumers are more than ever searching for environmentally conscious producers. Producers
such as Château Loudenne have noted the even French supermarkets are looking for
certifications displayed on bottles. 49 Overall, the consumer base is exceedingly
environmentally conscious.

Château Luchey-Halde’s efforts to reduce synthetic chemicals and promote biodiversity not
only impact their wine, but also improve the broader Bordeaux ecosystem.50 Trees have a
positive effect on above ground biodiversity by providing homes to bats, birds and bugs.51
Simultaneously, their regenerative effect on the topsoil also increases the biodiversity of the
soil microbiome.52 Collectively, the efforts of wineries such as Château Luchey-Halde have
been vastly beneficial to both their commercial interests and the broader environment.

II. Measure: chemical aversion

Copper and sulphur are being used sparingly as an alternative to synthetic chemicals.
Biological control, such as mating disruption, is also being utilised by producers as a method
of reducing pest populations.53

Some producers, like Château Climens in Barsac, have completely forgone synthetic
chemicals all together. Since 2010, Château Climens swapped to biodynamic viticulture. 54
Berenice Lurton was responsible for their biodynamic drive and is known for her unique
tisannerie. The tisannerie is an attic where herbs from the vineyard are dried before being
made into mixtures to treat the vineyard in lieu of chemicals.55

The synthetic aversion of Château Climens contributed its recent sale to the Moitry family.
Jean-Hubert Moitry stated to the Wine Spectator that he chose Climens due to its status as an

44
(Alonso Ugaglia and Ouvrard, 2021).
45
(Alonso Ugaglia and Ouvrard, 2021).
46
(Chateau Luchey Halde, n.d.).
47
(Chateau Luchey Halde, n.d.).
48
(Tahon and Batt, 2021).
49
(Narby, 2022d).
50
(Bernhardt, Rosi and Gessner, 2017).
51
(Barrios et al., 2017).
52
(Marcos et al., 2008).
53
(Tahon and Batt, 2021).
54
(Marcos et al., 2008)
55
(Narby, 2020).
 21061673

“exceptional estate, with irreproachable characteristics and quality.” 56 Noting this, it’s evident
the choice to forgo synthetics had a positive impact on the commerciality of Château
Climens.

Through their chemical restrictions, Château Climens is effectively protecting their

commercial interest by being more progressive than the AOC requirements. Recently, harsh
appellation laws have sweeping Bordeaux. An example of such is the Pomerol AOC’s ban on
synthetic herbicides.57 By utilising an advanced regime, Château Climens ensures they won’t
be excluded from the AOC; a phenomenon that would be harmful to their commercial
reputation.

III. Measure: water

Identification of water consumption in the vineyard and winery is a key environmental
adaptation. Wineries are making efforts to recycle wastewater and collect rainwater as part of
sustainable viticulture. Furthermore, producers are attempting to use water in a closed circuit
for cooling and cleaning within the winery.58

Château Couhin in Pessac-Leognan has made focussed efforts to be environmentally

considerate with their water use. Rainwater is collected and then used for vineyard spraying
and cleaning equipment.59 In addition, they use steam and hot water for barrel cleaning to
minimise water usage.60 Undoubtedly, efforts such as these reduce large amounts of water
consumption and have a positive environmental effect.

IV. Measure: waste and energy

Recycling is taking place nearly universally in some areas such as palate recycling. However
other adaptations like abstaining from beeswax capsule use or employing recycled-glass
bottles are less common and provide widespread opportunities for a reduced environmental
impact.61

Noting the immense contribution of transportation to carbon footprint, Sally Evens of

Château George 7, has been revamping production.62 Her wine bottles are now 87%
lightweight green recycled glass. This makes them easier to transport and environmentally
friendly. Furthermore, they employ a special type of natural cork.63 These corks are a
conglomerate of offcuts stuck together by a grape-waste glue.64 To supplement green bottles,
Sally has obtained cardboard boxes that are largely sourced from recycled material too. 65
Whilst it took a conscious effort on her part to create a more sustainable brand, it’s clear that
even within Bordeaux her decisions are commercially viable. To this effect, negociant house
Jules Lebegue only sells wines are at least HVE certified with a clear focus on
sustainability.66 With producers like Sally, the future of Bordeaux looks promising.

56
(Mustacich, 2022).
57
(Hay, 2021).
58
(Tahon and Batt, 2021).
59
(Boiling, 2019).
60
(Boiling, 2019).
61
(Tahon and Batt, 2021).
62
(Halmari, 2020).
63
(Halmari, 2020).
64
(Halmari, 2020).
65
(Halmari, 2020).
66
(Jules Lebègue, n.d.).
 21061673

V. Future measures
The future of Bordeaux has environmentally sustainable practices at the forefront. Many
producers have discussed their plans to improve upon their current adaptations and
implement more innovative measures. The following efforts are likely to be more widespread
in the run up to the 2030 goal.

Hervé Berland, the CEO of the famous classed growth Château Montrose, has discussed
aspirations to have a fleet of electric tractors to work the vineyard. These tractors would be
lighter and emit no carbon dioxide.67 Once implemented, it is likely many other producers
would follow suit.

Château Dauzac have begun to make a far simpler change: extra smooth maturation and
fermentation vessels. This simple decision allows for less water to be used in the cleaning
process, overall saving thousands of litres a year.68

Pomace, the leftover grape skins from pressing, is increasingly being composted and used to
nourish vineyards.69 Furthermore, due to its substantial fibre content, it can be utilised as
cattle feed.70 The grape seeds leftover from pressing are also being used to create grape seed
oil. This method of recycling not only helps the environment but provides wineries an extra
source of income.71 As the advantages of pomace become common knowledge, producers
beyond the biodynamic realm will begin utilising its many benefits.

More creative recycling ideas are also being used in the region. Château Smith Haute Lafite
redirected their pomace into the core products in a cosmetic company called Caudalie. 72 Here,
the pomace is being utilised for its antioxidant and resveratrol properties to create anti-aging
products. The result is a highly lucrative brand that utilises winemaking by-products in an
environmentally sustainable fashion.73 Noting the success of Caudalie, wineries are likely to
emulate Château Smith Haute Lafite in the future.

Bordeaux in the future

Whilst there are clear efforts to create a more sustainable future for Bordeaux, the threat of
climate change looms over the region and its wines. This section will discuss the risks of
global warming and the measures being taken to combat it.

I. The threat of climate change

In the long term, the wines and region of Bordeaux will experience drastic changes. There is
contention surrounding the term terroir, however it is terroir that underpins the wines of
Bordeaux.74 Terroir, often noted as enigmatic, can be reduced to a wine’s expression of its
climate, soil, typicity and human elements.75 It is the unique expression of regionality that
defines and characterises Bordeaux.

67
(Château Montrose, 2018).
68
(McCoy, 2020).
69
(Nistor et al., 2014).
70
(Nistor et al., 2014).
71
(Alley, 2009).
72
(Narby, 2022c).
73
(Narby, 2022c)
74
(Drappier et al., 2017).
75
(Drappier et al., 2017).
 21061673

Climate is well established as the most important factor in a grapevine’s maturation. 76 It is

universally recognised that the world is progressively warming.77 This phenomenon has been
observed in Bordeaux through data from the Institut des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin.78
Compared to other wine regions, the regional data suggests that Bordeaux is at risk of
particularly high temperatures.79 The projected increase in days over 30°C will drastically
affect the vine. It is likely to speed up ripening, increase berry sugar, increase alcohol and
disrupt the sugar to acid ratio.80 Furthermore, phenolic components may not have ample
hangtime to reach desired ripeness, causing a different aromatic and structural composition of
the resulting wine.81 Pascal Chatonnet, oenologist at Laboratory, has described the future
Bordeaux wines as “more dense, less refined, less elegant, with a dry and tannic finish.”82
With projections suggesting that before the year 2035, mean temperatures will rise between
0.3C and 1.7°C, it is evident that the style of Bordeaux wine itself is under siege.83 If
unhindered, it is likely that the future style of Bordeaux would lose the region its reputation
and prestige. Acknowledging this, producers and the CIVB with government assistance have
been paving the way for a resilient Bordeaux.

II. Measures to combat climate change

Whilst change is inevitable it is likely that the proactive efforts of researchers, regulatory
bodies and producers will allow for the retention of its famous style even with a future of
climate change. Broadly, the changes in the region can be categorised as preventative or
adaptive coping techniques.

a. Preventative measures
The Bordeaux region will continue being more environmentally proactive in an effort to
reduce its carbon footprint and hinder global climate change.84 Encouraging recyclable wine
bottles, choosing alternative packaging, employing agroforestry, attaining sustainable
certifications and reducing heavy machinery use are just some of the activities that will
increase in occurrence.85 Whilst many producers are forward thinking , such as the bottle
recycling Château Mauvesin Barton, others will need encouragement.86 Fortunately, the
market is actively demanding to have a positive environmental impact. Christophe Château,
head of communications at the CIVB, noted that price and quality are no longer the only
considerations for purchasers of wine. Now an additional question is relevant: is the purchase
“doing a good thing for the planet?”87 This consumer paradigm shift, combined with efforts
from the CIVB and CNCE, will encourage Bordeaux producers to place environmental
sustainability at the forefront.

b. Coping measures
Wineries are planning for the increasing temperature and adapting their viticultural and
winemaking techniques to preserve the expression of Bordeaux typicity. Some proposed, and
already implemented techniques include delaying pruning and reducing green thinning to
76
(Dai et al., 2011).
77
(Karl, 2003).
78
(Drappier et al., 2017).
79
(Drappier et al., 2017).
80
(Jones and Davis, 2000).
81
(Jones and Davis, 2000).
82
(IBB Online, n.d.)
83
(Kurmelovs, 2020).
84
(Badham, 2022).
85
(Tahon and Batt, 2021).
86
(Narby, 2022b).
87
(Badham, 2022).
 21061673

protect from the sun.88 Furthermore, many producers are harvesting at night and earlier in the
growing season to preserve acidity and freshness.89

At Château La Tour Carnet, warming cables are being used to heat sap flow and increase vine
growth. This project effectively mimics future temperatures in their vineyard.90 With these
simulated conditions, scientist Julien Lecourt has planted 84 trial varieties which will be
vinified discretely and then lab tested. The goal of the testing is to determine whether the
traditional Bordeaux varieties are truly under threat.91 Furthermore, the owner of Château La
Tour Carnet, Bernard Magrez, is also supporting academic efforts into tackling the problem.
In collaboration with the University of Bordeaux, a PhD scholarship is being offered to
vineyard adaptations to climate change.92 Collaborative efforts between producers and
academics demonstrate a promising future for Bordeaux wines.

Announced in early 2021, six new varieties for Bordeaux have been approved by the INAO
to help combat climate change. They varieties are: Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets,
Arinarnoa, Alvarinho and Liliorila.93 The new varieties were chosen for their naturally high
acidity and strong aromatics to help preserve the Bordeaux style with warming temperatures.
The INAO permits these grapes to make up 5% of total vineyard area and 10% of the final
wine blends for Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superior AOC. 94 These top-down measures will
stimulate innovative coping with climate change throughout the region.

Conclusion
Bordeaux is undergoing a renaissance of sustainability. Wineries have a plethora of
certification options to choose from and are making unique and commercially viable
adaptations for the future. Whilst global warming poses a threat to the region and its wines,
the proactive wineries and regulatory bodies aim to retain the Bordeaux terroir expression.

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 21061673

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