AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in

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supplement are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent
rights, and the risk of infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

AATCC License Agreement: This technical supplement is copyrighted by the American

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Research Triangle Park, NC 27709 USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
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AATCC
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Research Triangle Park, NC 27709 USA
Phone: 919-549-8141
Orders: 919-549-3526
Fax: 919-549-8933
Web Site: www.aatcc.org
 TECHNICAL
SUPPLEMENT
A COMPILATION OF
PROCEDURES AND GUIDELINES
FOR TEXTILE PRODUCTS

This Supplement is published as a cooperative effort between the AATCC C2C Committee
and the ASTM International Committee D13 on Textiles.

AATCC
P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, USA
Tel: 919/549-8141; Fax: 919/549-8933
Web Site: http://www.aatcc.org
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
Notice ..................................................................................................................... 3

Introduction ........................................................................................................... 4

Acknowledgements .............................................................................................. 5

Bleaching
Quick Methods for Colorfastness to Chlorine
and Non-Chlorine Bleach (TS-001) ................................................................................................... 6

Construction
Photographic Aids for Determining Count of Weft
Knit Fabric Constructions (TS-002) ................................................................................................... 7

Crocking
Method for Determining Wet Pick-up for Crocking (TS-003) ........................................................... 15

Detergents
Detergent Use in Laboratory Testing (R-001) ................................................................................. 16

Dimensional Change
Dimensional Change - Variances in Test Procedures (R-002) ........................................................ 17
Quick Method for Determining Seam Twist in Garments (TS-004) ................................................. 18

Dry Cleaning
Colorfastness and Dimensional Change of Fabrics and Garments to
Professional (Commercial) Drycleaning (R-003) ............................................................................ 20

High Performance Apparel

Performance Guideline for High Performance
Apparel/Activewear Fabrics (TS-005) ............................................................................................. 21

Laundering
Procedure for Hand Laundering (TS-006) ...................................................................................... 23
Procedure for Colorfastness to Home Laundering (TS-007) .......................................................... 24
Procedure for Appearance of Apparel and Other
Textile End Products After Repeated Home Laundering (TS-008) ................................................. 26
Procedure for Instrumental Color Rating of Staining (R-004) ......................................................... 28

Leather Apparel
Leather Apparel Screening and Performance Guidelines (TS-009) ................................................ 29

Perspiration/Lightfastness
Colorfastness to Perspiration and Light (R-005) ............................................................................. 31

Pilling
Visual Standards for Pilling (R-006) ................................................................................................ 32

Pocket Strength
Procedure for Determining Pocket Reinforcement Strength (TS-010) ............................................ 33

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 1

 Seamless Apparel (Intimates, Swimwear, etc)
Performance Guidelines for Seamless Knit Garments (TS-011) ..................................................... 35

Socks and Hosiery

Screening and Performance Guidelines for
Socks and Hosiery (TS-012) ........................................................................................................... 37

Snaps
Procedure for Determining Snapping Pressure of
Snap Fasteners (TS-013) ............................................................................................................... 39

Strength
Specimen Size in Tensile, Tear and Bursting Tests (R-007) ........................................................... 41

Stretch Apparel
Performance Guideline for High Stretch Fabrics
Used in Apparel (TS-014) ............................................................................................................... 42

Stretch and Recovery

Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments (TS-015) ......................................................................... 44
Procedure for the Stretch and Recovery of Knit Fabrics (TS-016) ................................................. 45

Wet Cleaning
Procedure for Professional (Commercial) Wet Cleaning (R-008) ................................................... 46

Wicking/Absorbency
Procedure for Wicking (TS-017) ..................................................................................................... 47
Procedure for Absorbency (TS-018) ............................................................................................... 49

2 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

 NOTICE
The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been
reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test
Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provi-
sional” and are not considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In cases of
dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede guidelines in this publication.

No Warranties; Disclaimer of Liability

Because of the possibility of human error as well as other factors, AATCC and ASTM International are
not responsible for any errors in or omissions from the information contained in this publication. All
such information is provided “as is” without warranty of any kind. AATCC and ASTM International
make no representations and expressly disclaim all warranties of any kind, whether express or im-
plied, including, but not limited to, the implied warranties of fitness for a particular purpose,
noninfringement and any warranties concerning the availability, accuracy or content of any proce-
dures and guidelines provided in this publication. AATCC and ASTM International make no warranty
that the procedures and guidelines in this publication will meet your requirements or be error free.
This disclaimer of liability applies to any damages or injury caused by any failure of performance,
error, omission, defect, or delay in operation, whether for breach of contract, tortious behavior, negli-
gence, or under any other cause of action. No advice or information, whether oral or written, obtained
by you from AATCC or ASTM International shall create any warranty not expressly made herein. You
understand and agree that the use of any content obtained through this publication is done at your
own discretion and risk and that you will be solely responsible for the use of such content. The infor-
mation, contained or referred to in this publication may change or be updated without notice.

Use of the information in this publication is at your sole risk. In no event will AATCC or ASTM Interna-
tional be liable to any person or entity for any direct, indirect, consequential, incidental, exemplary,
multiple, punitive, special or other damages under any theory of law for any use or reliance upon the
information available in this publication, including without limitation, damages for lost profits, business
interruption, or loss or damage to data, even if you have advised AATCC and ASTM International of
the possibility of such damages.

Some U.S. states and foreign countries provide rights in addition to those above or do not allow the
exclusion or limitation of implied warranties or liability for incidental or consequential damages. There-
fore, the above limitations may not apply to you, or there may be state provisions which supersede the
above. Any clause of this disclaimer declared invalid by the appropriate authority shall be deemed
severable and shall not affect the validity or enforceability of the remainder. The terms of this dis-
claimer are governed by the laws of the state of North Carolina in the United States of America and
may only be amended in a writing signed by AATCC and ASTM International.

INDEMNIFICATION
You agree to indemnify and hold harmless AATCC and ASTM International (including, but not limited
to, AATCC’s and ASTM’s officers, employees, directors, agents, successors and assigns) from any
and all claims and expenses, including reasonable attorney’s fees and court costs, related to your use
of procedures and guidelines provided in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 3

 INTRODUCTION
ASTM International Committee D-13 and AATCC publish numerous test methods
and performance guidelines that are used by producers as well as users of textile
products.

Occasionally, the industry encounters a situation in which a needed test method or

performance standard has not been developed by either ASTM International D13 or
AATCC. Individual companies, in some cases, may have developed their own proto-
cols to assess these needed properties.

This manual is a compilation of such documents. It contains technical information that

is planned to be introduced for balloting within ASTM International and AATCC. This
would result in revisions to existing standards or the creation of new standards. This
Technical Supplement will become obsolete once all the new standards and test meth-
ods are finalized and published.

The user will note that each section of technical information has a number. New pro-
cedures and guidelines have TS (Technical Supplement) numbers. Notes referring
the user to another source have R (Referral) numbers. These numbers are to be used
when quoting any information contained in this document. When quoting the meth-
ods, the suggested format is AATCC/ASTM TS-XXX.

The procedures and guidelines in this manual have not been reviewed or approved as
stated in the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees
or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not con-
sidered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In cases of dispute
or litigation, standard test methods and retailer’s test procedures and guidelines will
supercede guidelines in this document.

AATCC Test Methods referenced in this document may be purchased from;

AATCC
P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, USA
Tel: 919/549-8141; Fax: 919/549-8933
Web Site: http://www.aatcc.org

ASTM International Standards referenced in this document may be purchased from:

ASTM INTERNATIONAL
Customer Service Department
100 Barr Harbor Drive
West Conshohocken, PA 19428
Tel: 610-832-9585; Fax: 610-832-9555
Web Site: http://www.astm.org

4 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The technical information contained in the Technical Supplement has been voluntar-
ily supplied by many experts in the textile and apparel industry. Contributors are
listed below.

Appreciation is extended to these experts for donating their time and expertise to
this project.

AATCC – Amy Hammonds

Burlington Performance Wear – Steve Simonson
Cotton Inc. – Norma Keyes
Clorox – Nancy Johnson
DuPont – Dushanka Keane
Eddie Bauer – Priscilla Bailey-Padilla
GretagMacBeth LLC – Ann Laidlaw
International Fabricare Institute – Mary Scalco
Intertek – Karen Kyllo
Intertek – Janett Rice
Levi Strauss and Co. – Barbara Chapin
3M Co. – Linda Cote
MTL-ACTS – Sandeep Khatua
Proctor and Gamble – Nodie Washington
SGS-US Testing – Lou Ann Spirito
Sears, Roebuck and Co. – Karen Mueser
Texas Women’s University – Charles Riggs
Textile Tech Services – Adi Chehna
Unilever – Tamara Padron
Universal Fasteners - Rhea Enriquez

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 5

 TS-001

Quick Methods for Colorfastness to Chlorine and

Non-Chlorine Bleach
All three tests listed below may be These tests have been shown to be 95% lining, etc.) and colors in a multi-col-
conducted at room temperature in con- reliable and in no case do false positives ored garment/fabric should be tested.
trolled or non-controlled conditions. occur. All components (zippers, thread,

TABLE 1: TEST PROCEDURES

Product Solution Test Procedure

Clorox Liquid Mix 15 mL CLB in Using commercially available

Bleach (CLB) 75 mL water Clorox Liquid Bleach, apply
(or 1:5 ratio CLB:water) 1 drop of solution to all colors in fabric or
garment. Make sure solution penetrates fabric.
Do not rinse fabric. Blot after 1 minute and let
dry. When dry, visually rate the amount of color
change. This test predicts the results after 5
home launderings.

Powdered Dissolve 4.7 g Clorox 2 Water temperature is approximately

Clorox 2 in 250 mL hot water. 120 F. Stir well to ensure bleach
(or 1 tsp. Clorox 2 in 8 oz. water) particles have dissolved. Soak a 2” X 2” fabric
swatch in the solution for 1 minute after the
bleach particles have dissolved and before the
solution cools. Rinse well and allow to dry.
When dry, visually rate the amount of color
change. This test predicts the results after one
home laundering

Liquid Use undiluted product Apply 1 drop of product to all colors

Clorox 2 in the fabric or garment. Make sure the liquid
penetrates the fabric. Let stand for 5 minutes
and then rinse thoroughly. Allow to dry and
when dry visually rate the amount of color
change. This test predicts the results after one
home laundering.

Evaluations for all procedures should be compared to a similar fabric sample that has been laundered in detergent alone. This will ensure
that the observed color change is attributable to only the bleach.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

6 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-002

Photographic Aids for Determining Count of Weft

Knit Fabric Constructions
ASTM D3887 Standard Specifications ture: warp, weft, or flat bed knitted course, - a row of loops or stitches
for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics gives fabrics. Crucial to knitted fabric count- running across the width of a fabric
instructions for performing fabric count. ing is an understanding of the terms, corresponding to filling yarn in woven
The unit of measurement for fabric course and wale. Easily understood fabric.
count is the number of yarns per dis- definitions of the terms given below are
tance, most typically cited as per inch or taken from Cotton Incorporated’s Circu- wale, in knitted fabrics, - a column of
centimeter. lar Knitting Science –Intermediate loops running lengthwise down a fabric.
Level Workshop Notebook and used
The procedure for knitted fabric count is by permission. Course and wale counts used in apparel
applicable to any type of knitted struc- are never added together unlike end and
pick counts used in bedding products.

Fig. 1. Wale and course loop orientation.

Fig. 1 shows a simple knitted fabric construction highlighting a course and a wale. Some knitted fabric constructions are more
complicated and therefore it is more difficult to successfully perform fabric counts. In order to judge the closed end of a loop
used to count courses, it is sometimes necessary to turn knitted fabric swatches to the “wrong” side. (The technical back of fabric
is usually the inside of a garment.)

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 7

The images in Figs. 2-11 are intended to provide guidance for knitted fabric counting. The arrows on each photograph designate
the location of either courses or wales.

Fig. 2. 2 x 2 Rib wale count. Fig. 3. 2 x 2 Rib course count.

Fig. 4. Interlock wale count. Fig. 5. Interlock course count.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 9

Fig. 6. Single jersey wale count. Fig. 7. Single jersey course count.

Fig. 8. Single pique wale count. Fig. 9. Single pique course count.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 11

Fig. 10. Terry velour wale count. Fig. 11. Terry velour course count.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 13

TS-003

Method for Determining Wet Pick-up for Crocking

The following method is one of several techniques that may be used to determine wet pick-up for crocking. It has been selected
for publication due to its uniformity and efficiency.

PROCEDURE 4. Apply water evenly over crocking using a new crocking square, repeat
square. steps 1-6.
1. Weigh dry crock square.
5. Weigh the wet square. 8. When 65% wet pick-up is achieved,
2. Using a syringe, graduated pipette,
6. Calculate wet pick-up according to record the amount of water used.
or automatic pipetter, draw up water
instructions in the AATCC TM 8 Draw up the recorded amount of
in mL to 0.65 times weight of crock-
Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC water into the syringe tube, gradu-
ing square. (If crocking square
Crockmeter Method and AATCC TM ated pipette, or automatic pipetter for
weight equals 0.024 g then mL used
116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Ro- each wet crocking performed during
would be 0.024 X 0.65 = 0.016 mL)
tary Vertical Crockmeter Method. the current day.
3. Lay crocking square on white plastic
7. If needed, adjust the amount of 9. Repeat this process each day.
mesh over a dish.
water used to wet the square and

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 15

 R-001

Detergent Use in Laboratory Testing

Many fabric attributes critical to con- evolution and reasoning behind the laboratory testing adds an element of
sumer use and acceptability are those textile industry need for and adoption of variability that use of standard test meth-
that can be influenced by how products standard detergents for use in testing. ods and detergents intend to control. The
are cared for in home laundering. Di- percentage of optical brightener or fluo-
mensional change, smoothness appear- The often-heard criticism that standard rescent brightening agents has a definite
ance, surface appearance, colorfastness, detergents do not represent what con- effect on colorfastness evaluations. The
soil release, and flammability resistance sumers use is indeed an inaccurate state- amount of optical brightener or fluores-
performance are some of the fabric ment. The AATCC detergent monograph cent brightening agents is known to vary
characteristics influenced by laundering. describes the environmental, economic, within a single brand of detergent sold
Colorfastness and soil release perfor- and changing textile influences that for consumer use.
mance are two attributes most notably resulted in the 1993 approval of new
influenced by detergents. The textile powder standard detergents with/without Detergent producers have developed
industry has adopted laundering condi- brightener (WOB). To reflect changing detergents with other cleaning compo-
tions and detergents that provide stan- consumer practice to greater use of nents such as non-chlorine color safe
dards that are intended to represent liquid detergents (which have different bleach systems. AATCC now has full-
typical home use products and practices. formulation profiles versus powder scale (washing machine) methods and
The use of these conditions provide the detergents), a new standard liquid deter- accelerated standard procedures for
best possibilities of predicting not only gent is proceeding through the approval determination of colorfastness using
consumer’s acceptance of textile prod- process in AATCC committees. such products. The standards were
ucts but also, for the suppliers of dyes, approved in 2002 and are: AATCC TM
finishes, and laundering products, to However, the use of locally purchased 172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine
judge the performance of their products. national brands of detergents in testing Bleach in Home Laundering and
labs is a fairly common practice. This AATCC TM 190 Colorfastness to Home
The AATCC Technical Manual, pub- practice has been driven by several Laundering with Activated Oxygen
lished yearly, contains monographs on factors: a) care labeling considerations, Bleach Detergent: Accelerated.
both laundering topics. Those mono- b) inaccurate assumption that the same
graphs are: “Standardization of Home detergent brand has the same composi- It should be noted that different standard
Laundry Test Conditions” and “1993 tion from location to location and from laundering equipment and detergents are
AATCC Standard Reference Detergent one year to the next one, c) the conve- used in Europe and Asia.
and Laundry Detergents in General.” nience of buying locally, and d) price.
The detergent monograph describes the The use of “off the shelf” detergents in

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

16 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

R-002

Dimensional Change – Variances in Test Procedures

It is common industry practice to per- parison of performance data depending rated into AATCC Test Method 135 and
form tests for dimensional change with upon the procedures used. AATCC Test Method 150. The changes
various numbers of specimens, refurbish- in these methods are currently under
ing cycles, restoration procedures, etc. These variances in test procedures have review and should be approved by mid
These variances in procedure affect test recently been addressed by Committee 2004.
results and therefore prevent valid com- RA 42 and changes have been incorpo-

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 17

 TS-004

Quick Method for Determining Seam Twist In Garments

1. SCOPE 3. CONDITIONING 5. PROCEDURE
1.1 To determine the twist in garment 3.1 Condition samples before taking 5.1 Prior to laundering, lay garments
seams after repeated laundering. original measurements and condi- flat as shown in Figures 1 & 2, and
tion samples after laundering before ensure that the side
2. APPARATUS AND taking washed measurements. seams are straight, and do not ex-
MATERIALS 3.2 For conditioning, hang garments on hibit any twist.
2.1 Automatic washing machine a hanger or lay on racks. 5.1.1 For bottoms, fold at the seat seam,
(Note 1) and smooth out seam area and down
2.2 Automatic tumble dryer (Note 1) 4. WASHING, DRYING AND the leg, as shown
2.3 Conditioning rack and/or hangers HAND IRONING in figure 1. If the seam exhibits
2.4 Home laundering detergent CONDITIONS twist, measure distances AA’ and
2.5 Measuring tape and ruler 4.1 Refer to AATCC 135 (Dimensional AB as shown in figure 1A, and
Changes in Automatic Home Laun- record.
Note 1: Refer to AATCC recommended dering of Woven and Knit Fabrics) 5.1.2 For tops, hold the garment by
models, or any other machines for specific wash, dry and hand shoulder seams, shake to hang
known to give comparable results ironing conditions. loose, lay flat on a table and
can be used. smooth out garment, as shown in

Fig. 1. Bottoms, Before Laundering Fig. 1A. Bottoms, After Laundering

Fig. 2. Top, Before Laundering Fig. 2A. Top, After Laundering

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

18 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

 figure 2. If the seam exhibits twist, garments on a hanger, 5.3 Calculate seam twist (before as well
measure distances AA’ and and allow to relax for a minimum of as after laundering) in percent, using
AB as shown in figure 2A, and 2 hours. the equation:
record. 5.2.1 After laundering and conditioning,
5.2 Launder garments according to the measure distances AA’ and AB as % seam twist = AA’/AB x 100
care label. After laundering, hang shown in figures 1A and 2A.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 19

 R-003

Colorfastness and Dimensional Change of Fabric and

Garments to Professional (Commercial) Drycleaning
Many companies manufacture clothing sional (commercial)1 drycleaners be- Sending samples to a local drycleaner
that must be drycleaned. Drycleaning is comes necessary. for evaluation is a good idea and will
a process that uses solvents other than give a good predictor of test outcomes.
water for cleaning. Water usually creates In order to perform drycleaning tests, it is However, it is necessary to know the
more rapid dimensional change than necessary to specify the solvent to be details of what solvent, temperature,
solvents where as many as five used [perchloroethylene (perc) is the moisture level, color of other garments
cleanings may be required to see total most common and most aggressive], the in the load, etc. were used. Colorfastness
dimensional changes. Unless something machine cycle including drying tempera- changes might show a potential color-
in the garments, such as certain fibers or ture, the detergent, and moisture level in fastness problem, however a cast differ-
finishes, is particularly sensitive to a the solvent. AATCC TM 158 Dimen- ence might only be a reflection of other
solvent, drycleaning is usually less sional Changes on Drycleaning in Per- colors from garments in the same load.
severe than laundering. chloroethylene: Machine Method (similar Please remember to ask for the specific
to ISO 3175 Part 2) gives operating details. Perc is the recommended sol-
The changes in colorfastness and dimen- guidelines for perc solvent. Other sol- vent, as samples that are cleaned suc-
sional change that occur during vents such as hydrocarbons, cyclic cessfully in perc will normally not be
drycleaning need to be measured in methylsiloxanes, glycol ether, liquid damaged by other solvents.
order to prepare accurate care labels and carbon dioxide, etc. are becoming more
assure correct sizing. Testing in labora- common and will produce varying results Consult AATCC TM 135 for marking,
tories that have drycleaning equipment depending on sensitivity of the fabric to a measuring and reporting instructions
is not always possible due to economic particular solvent. ISO 3175 Part 32 is in for fabrics and AATCC TM 150 for
and environmental reasons, therefore final draft form and will provide guide- garments.
sending the samples to local profes- lines for hydrocarbon solvents.

1
The terms ‘Professional’ and ‘Commercial’, although having different definitions, are often used interchangeably.

2 ISO/DIS3175 has published parts 1 and 2 and parts 3 and 4 have passed FDIS and are awaiting publication

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

20 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-005

Performance Guideline for High Performance

Apparel/Activewear Fabrics
The performance guideline in Table I to serve as a guide and thus includes tional. It is merely a guideline and not a
may be used for fabric and garments some performance characteristics that statement of an industry standard. The
made in high tech fabrics designed for might not be applicable to all products. buyer and seller of any high performance
heavy outdoor, athletic, and other spe- This is a performance guideline that falls fabric must mutually agree upon an ac-
cialized uses. This document is designed under the jurisdiction of ASTM Interna- ceptable standard.

TABLE I. PERFORMANCE GUIDELINE (HIGH PERFORMANCE FABRICS)

Evaluation Guide Example Test method

Regulatory
Fiber Content ±3% tolerance FTC – Textile Fiber
No tolerance on Products
100% fabrics Identification Act,
Wool Products Labeling Act,
AATCC 20

Country of Origin Report actual 19 CFR 134

Care Instructions Report actual Care Labeling of

Textile Wearing
Apparel and Certain
Piece Goods

RN Number or Report actual Textile Fiber Products

Importer of Record Identification Act,
Contact Information Wool Products
Labeling Act

Flammability Class 1 16 CFR 1610

Fabric Characteristics
Fabric Count Report actual ASTM D3775
Weight Report actual ASTM D3776

Dimensional Change
Dimensional Change after ±3% max. AATCC 135
3 Home Launderings

Appearance Retention
General Appearance after No significant change Visual evaluation
3 Home Launderings including surface,
color, shape, etc
Appearance of Fabrics after Grade 3.5 min. AATCC 124
3 Home Launderings (Smoothness)

Colorfastness
Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering AATCC 61
Color change Grade 4 min.
Staining Grade 4 min.
Self-staining Grade 4.5 min.

Colorfastness to Bleach TS-001

Chlorine Grade 4 min.
Non-chlorine Grade 4 min.

Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16 Option 3

20 AFU exposure Grade 4 min.
40 AFU exposure Grade 3 min.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 21

 TABLE I. PERFORMANCE GUIDELINE (HIGH PERFORMANCE FABRICS) (continued)

Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107

Color change Grade 4 min.
Staining Grade 4 min.
Self-staining Grade 4.5 min.

Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15

Color change Grade 4 min.
Staining Grade 4 min.
Self-staining Grade 4.5 min.

Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8/116

Dry Grade 4 min.
Wet Grade 3 min.

Colorfastness to Abrasion-Frosting 1200 cycles AATCC 119

(cross dyed fabrics only) Grade 3.5 min.

Colorfastness to Solvent Spotting Grade 3.5 min. AATCC 157

Strength
Seam Strength 30 lb min. ASTM D1683
Resistance to Seam Slippage 20 lb min. ASTM D1683
Tensile Strength (Wovens only) 50 lb min. ASTM D5034
Tear Strength (Wovens only) 3.0 lb min. ASTM D1424
Bursting Strength (Knits only) 45 psi min. ASTM D3786
Resistance to Yarn Slippage 30 lb min. ASTM D434
Yarn Distortion (Wovens only) 0.15 in. max. ASTM D1336
(2 lb Load)

Stretch/Elongation
Stretch and Recovery/Growth ASTM D3107
With elastomer (spandex)
Stretch Report actual
Recovery 60 minutes 4.0% min.
Without elastomer
Stretch Report actual
Growth 30 minutes 5.0% min.

Abrasion
Pilling Grade 4 min. ASTM D3512

Water & Air Resistance

Water Repellency (water repellent outerwear only) AATCC 22
As received 90 min.
After 5 home launderings 70 min.
Rain Test AATCC 35
When Harmonized Code required 2 ft/2 min 1.0 g max.
When stormproofness required 3 ft/5 min 1.0 g max.
After 5 Home Launderings 1.0 g max.

Wet Flex (coated or No delamination 24 hr continuous

laminated waterproof fabrics only) wash in a home
laundering machine
Air Permeability (if downproofness or windproofness required)
As received 3.0 cfm max. ASTM D737
After 3 home launderings 3.0 cfm max.

Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM E96 (B)

(for coated or laminated waterproof/breathable fabrics)
As received 500 g/m2/24hr min
After 5 home launderings 500 g/m2/24hr min

Hydrostatic Pressure (for coated or laminated waterproof fabrics only) AATCC 127
As received 200 cm min.
After 5 home launderings 200 cm min.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

22 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-006

Procedure for Hand Laundering

1. Mix water from tap to desired tem- 5. Gently squeeze item in solution for 1 11. Using clean white bath towels, blot
perature as listed in Table I of minute. water from laundered item. Do not
AATCC Standardization for Home 6. Repeat this process (steps 4 - 5) two wring or twist.
Laundry Conditions Monograph. (2) times. 12. Lay item on screen or perforated
Place 7.6-L of water in a 19-L con- 7. Squeeze excess solution from item. shelves to dry or hang on an appro-
tainer. Add 7.5 g of 1993 AATCC Place item on clean white bath towel. priate hanger to dry.
Standard Reference Detergent to the 8. Mix water from tap to desired tem- 13. Do not blow air directly toward
water. perature for rinsing. Place 7.6-L of item to accelerate drying as it may
2. Agitate by hand to dissolve water in a 19-L container. result in deformation.
detergent. 9. Place item in rinse water and repeat 14. Repeat washing and drying cycle
3. Add item to water and gently steps 4 – 6. two (2) additional times or the num-
squeeze to distribute detergent solu- 10. Remove item from container and ber of times as agreed between buyer
tion through item. squeeze out excess water. Do not and seller.
4. Let soak for 2 minutes. wring or twist.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 23

 TS-007

Procedure for Colorfastness to Home Laundering

1. PURPOSE AND SCOPE 3. TERMINOLOGY 5.2 AATCC Gray Scale for Color
1.1 This test method is designed for 3.1 Colorfastness, n. – the resistance of a Change.
evaluating colorfastness properties material to change in any of its color 5.3 Multifiber test fabric.
of fabric, garments, or other textile characteristics, to transfer of its 5.4 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
products after repeated home laun- colorants to adjacent materials or Detergent WOB
dering. Any washable textile end both, as a result of the exposure of 5.5 Automatic washing machine.
product may be evaluated for color- the material to any environment that 5.6 Automatic tumble dryer.
fastness to laundering and staining might be encountered during the 5.7 Wash load ballast.
using this method. processing, testing, storage, or use of
1.2 Textile end products containing the material.
6. TEST SPECIMENS
fabrics of any construction, such as 6.1 For textile end product tests, select
woven, knit, and nonwoven may be 4. USES AND LIMITATIONS one item for testing and one control.
evaluated according to this method. 4.1 This test method is designed for 6.2 Test specimens prepared for AATCC
1.3 This method shall not be construed evaluating the colorfastness proper- Test Methods 135 and 150 may be
to provide a standard of performance ties of washable fabric, apparel and used for this test method.
for any textile item, but only a stan- other textile end products after re-
dard method by which to evaluate peated home laundering.
7. PROCEDURE
colorfastness of the item when 4.2 The test procedure is designed to 7.1 Determine desired number of laun-
laundered. reflect the capabilities of home laun- dering cycles.
dry equipment that is currently used 7.2 Use laundering procedure from
2. PRINCIPLE by consumers. In general, it is pref- AATCC Test Method 150.
2.1 Fabric, garments or other textile end erable to conduct the test under 7.3 Attach a multifiber swatch to the
products are subjected to standard conditions as described on the item’s textile end product and remove for
home laundering practices. A choice care label or under conditions simi- evaluation after wash and dry cycles
is provided of hand or machine lar, or slightly harsher than those are complete.
washing, alternative machine wash expected to be used by the
cycles and temperatures, alternative consumer. 8. EVALUATION
drying procedures and number of 4.3 AATCC Standard Reference Deter- 8.1 Three trained observers should rate
refurbishing cycles. AATCC 1993 gent WOB is recommended to pro- each test specimen independently.
Standard Reference Detergent WOB vide consistency and reproducibility. 8.2 Evaluation of color change.
is recommended for consistency as 4.4 The interlab reproducibility of the 8.2.1 Evaluate the color change of the
stated in R001 Detergent Use in results of this test method depends test specimens as directed in AATCC
Laboratory Testing. Evaluation of upon mutual agreement by users of Evaluation Procedure 1 using the
color change and staining is per- the method on the washing and AATCC Gray Scale for Color
formed using a standard lighting and drying conditions as outlined in 7.1, Change.
viewing area. Change in color and and the type of detergent used. If 8.3 Evaluation of staining.
staining is quantified by comparison other types of detergents are used 8.3.1 Evaluate staining of the multifiber
of the washed specimen with appro- this may affect the repeatability and test swatch as directed in AATCC
priate reference standards and by consistency of the method. Evaluation Procedure 2 using the
comparison to a control. AATCC Gray Scale for Staining or
5. APPARATUS AND MATERIALS as directed in AATCC Evaluation
Note: If a commercially available deter- 5.1 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transfer- Procedure 8 using the 9-Step Chro-
gent is used, FWA (fluorescent whiten- ence Scale or Gray Scale for matic Transference Scale.
ing agents) will be present and may Staining.
influence the colorfastness evaluation.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

24 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

9. INTERPRETATION mined for color change and the stain- Scale for Staining or 9-Step AATCC
9.1 Results of this test are intended to ing grade numbers for the evaluated Chromatic Transference Scale.)
approximate the color change effects fibers in the multifiber test swatch. 10.4 Report the detergent used.
that will occur in consumer end use. 10.2 Report the grade number deter- 10.5 Washing and drying procedure.
mined for self-staining if applicable. 10.6 Number of complete washing and
10. REPORT 10.3 State which scale was used in drying cycles.
10.1 Report the grade number deter- evaluating staining (AATCC Gray

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 25

 TS-008

Procedure for Appearance of Apparel and Other

Textile End Products After Repeated Home Laundering
1. PURPOSE AND SCOPE R001 Detergent Use in Laboratory other types of detergents are used
1.1 This test method is designed for Testing. this may affect the repeatability and
evaluating the overall general ap- Note: If a commercially available deter- consistency of the method.
pearance of a garment and other gent is used, FWA (fluorescent whiten-
textile products after repeated home ing agents) will be present and may 5. APPARATUS AND
laundering. Overall appearance influence the colorfastness evaluation. MATERIALS
refers to any visual change in ap- 5.1 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transfer-
pearance including change in color, 3. TERMINOLOGY ence Scale or AATCC Gray Scale for
staining, change in fabric surface, 3.1 Appearance of textile end prod- Staining.
skewing or distortion, seam pucker- ucts, n. – the overall visual impres- 5.2 AATCC Gray Scale for Color
ing, incompatibility of components, sion of a textile end product quanti- Change.
loss of hand, and any other visual fied by comparison of individual 5.3 Multifiber test fabric.
change that is observed. components with appropriate refer- 5.4 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
1.2 Any washable textile end product ence standards and by comparison Detergent.
may be evaluated for appearance with a control. 5.5 Automatic washing machine.
retention using this method. 5.6 Automatic tumble dryer.
1.3 Textile end products containing 4. USES AND LIMITATIONS 5.7 Wash load ballast.
fabrics of any construction, such as 4.1 This test method is designed for 5.8 Pilling replicas.
woven, knit, and nonwoven may be evaluating the overall appearance of 5.9 Seam smoothness replicas.
evaluated according to this method. washable apparel and other textile 5.10 Fabric smoothness replicas.
1.4 This method shall not be construed end products after repeated home
to provide a standard of performance laundering. 6. TEST SPECIMENS
for any textile item, but only a stan- 4.2 The test procedure is designed to 6.1 For textile end product tests, select
dard method by which to evaluate reflect the capabilities of home laun- three items for testing and one con-
performance of the item. dry equipment that is currently used trol.
1.5 This method is intended to evaluate by consumers. In general, it is pref- 6.2 Test specimens prepared for AATCC
textile end products, as they will be erable to conduct the test under Test Method 150 may be used for
supplied from manufacturing or as conditions as described on the item’s this test method.
ready for use. care label or under conditions simi-
lar, or slightly harsher than those 7. PROCEDURE
2. PRINCIPLE expected to be used by the con- 7.1 Attach a multifiber swatch to the
2.1 Textile end products are subjected to sumer. textile end product.
standard home laundering practices. 4.3 Prints and patterns may mask the 7.2 Launder the item according to the
A choice is provided of hand or muskiness, fading and/or washdown care label.
machine washing, alternative ma- present in textile end products. The 7.3 Remove multifiber after one wash
chine wash cycles and temperatures, rating process is, however, based on and dry cycle.
and alternative drying procedures. the visual appearance of specimens 7.4 Repeat laundering for a minimum of
Evaluation is performed using a including such effects. 2 additional cycles.
standard lighting and viewing area. 4.4 AATCC Standard Reference Deter-
The overall visual impression of a gent WOB is recommended to pro- 8. EVALUATION
textile end product is quantified by vide consistency and reproducibility. 8.1 Three trained observers should rate
comparison of individual compo- 4.5 The interlab reproducibility of the each test specimen independently.
nents with appropriate reference results of this test method depends 8.2 Prior to evaluation, condition the test
standards and by comparison to a upon mutual agreement by users of specimens for a minimum of 4 hours
control. AATCC 1993 Standard the method on the washing and in the standard atmosphere for textile
Reference Detergent WOB is recom- drying conditions as outlined in 7.1, testing [21 ±1C (70 ±2F) and 65%
mended for consistency as stated in and the type of detergent used. If ±2 RH]. Textile end product items

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

26 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

 should be hung on an appropriate 3 – Moderate pilling or fuzzing specified in AATCC Evaluation
hanger, straightening and smoothing 2 - Severe pilling or fuzzing Procedure 5, using the unwashed
facings and seams, etc. 1 – Very Severe pilling or control as the standard.
8.3 The textile end product is evaluated fuzzing
for visual change in color, staining, 8.7 Skewing. 9. INTERPRETATION
skewing, surface texture, seam puck- 8.7.1 Lay the washed garment without 9.1 Results of this test are intended to
ering, fabric wrinkling, etc. tension on a flat, smooth horizontal approximate the changes in appear-
8.4 Evaluation of color change. surface. ance that will occur in consumer end
8.4.1 Evaluate the color change of the 8.7.2 Measure the distance from the use.
test specimens as directed in AATCC natural side seam to the actual side
Evaluation Procedure 1 using the seam following instructions in TS- 10. REPORT
AATCC Gray Scale for Color 005 Quick Method for Measuring 10.1 Report the grade number deter-
Change. Garment Skew. mined for color change and the stain-
8.5 Evaluation of staining. Note: Caution is to be exercised when ing grade numbers for the evaluated
8.5.1 Evaluate staining of the multifiber using TS-005 for garments with fibers in the multifiber test swatch.
test swatch and staining of the textile short side seams such as shorts, 10.2 Report the grade number deter-
end product as directed in AATCC children’s items and crop tops. The mined for self-staining if applicable.
Evaluation Procedure 2 using the results could be misleading. 10.3 State which scale was used in
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining or 8.7.3 For non-apparel products or prod- evaluating staining (AATCC Gray
as directed in AATCC Evaluation ucts without seams, reference Scale for Staining or the 9 Step
Procedure 8 using the 9-Step AATCC test method 179 for other AATCC Chromatic Transference
AATCC Chromatic Transference measuring options. Scale).
Scale. 8.8 Seam Appearance. 10.4 Report the detergent used.
8.6 Evaluation of change in fabric sur- 8.8.1 Mount the washed garment or item 10.4.1 Washing and drying procedure.
face (pilling). on the viewing board with the seam 10.4.2 Number of complete washing and
8.6.1 Using suitable rating standards, in the vertical direction as directed drying cycles.
subjectively rate the fabric surface in AATCC Test Method 88B. Place 10.5 Report any observed changes in
by comparison to the photographic the appropriate single or double fabric surface, seam puckering, and
standards and by comparison to the needle standard seam smoothness incompatibility of components,
unwashed control textile end prod- replicas beside the specimen and change in hand, or any other visible
uct. assign a comparative numerical changes.
8.6.2 Evaluate the fabric surface for grade. 10.6 Report percentage of skewing,
other visual effects such as fuzzing. 8.8.1.1 SS-5 is the best level of before and after laundering.
A subjective rating is assigned based appearance.
on noticeablilty of the change in SS-1 is the poorest level of Reference
comparison to the unwashed control. appearance. AATCC TM 88B, TM 179, EP1, EP2,
8.6.2.1 5 – No pilling or fuzzing 8.9 Evaluation of hand. EP5, EP8; ASTM D3512; TS-005
4 – Slight pilling or fuzzing 8.9.1 Washed specimens are evaluated as

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 27

 R-004

Procedure for Instrumental Color Rating of Staining

AATCC committee RA36 has been 2, Gray Scale for Staining, for assessing the Gray Scale for Staining. A draft
working on an evaluation procedure the degree of staining on a fabric test under the title “Instrumental Assessment
intended as an alternative to the visual specimen used in colorfastness tests. It is of Degree of Staining” is being balloted
method of AATCC Evaluation Procedure applicable to any test method referring to within the committee.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

28 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-009

Leather Apparel Screening and Performance Guidelines

This guideline is presented as a sug- tance based on critical performance values given in Tables I and II may or
gested screening protocol that could be attributes important to consumers. The may not meet individual retailer needs.
used by retailers to determine accep-

TABLE I: SAMPLING GUIDELINES

Category Number of Samples Tests (if applicable)

Leather & Suede* Coats, 2 garments or 1 Colorfastness to:

Jackets, Pants, Skirts garment and 1 skin Laundering (washable
leathers only) or Professional
Leather Cleaning
Crocking
Leather & Suede* Vests 3-4 garments or 1 Perspiration – (Vests, unlined
garment and 1 skin leather garments, lining)
Light

Physical
Dimensional change (washable
items only) or Professional
Leather Cleaning
Appearance after care
Tensile Strength
Spew
Leather/Hardware compatibility

Materials:
* Suede category includes nubuck and split leathers Species Identification

Tests for additional properties may be required; i.e., evenness of thickness or grain, tearing strength, seam strength, abrasion resistance,
finish adhesion, determination of presence of toxic dyes or finishing chemicals, mildew/mold resistance, compatibility of components and
trims, glue bleeding, and oil extraction.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 29

 TABLE II: PERFORMANCE GUIDE EXAMPLES
Evaluation Leather Suede Lining Test Method

Colorfastness to:
Laundering (washable items) AATCC 61 or
Color Change 4.0 4.0 4.0 Professional
Staining 4.0 4.0 4.0 Leather
Self Staining 4.5 4.5 4.5 Cleaning

Crocking AATCC 8/116

Dry 3.0 3.0 4.0
Wet 2.0 2.0 3.0

Light – 20 AFU 4.0 4.0 N/A AATCC 16

Option 3

Perspiration AATCC 15
Color Change 4.0 4.0 4.0
Staining 4.0 4.0 4.0

Dimensional change, AATCC 135/150

Length x width -5% x -5% max. -5% x -5% max. -3% x 3% max. Professional
Leather
Cleaning
Appearance after Cleaning
Professional or home Satisfactory Satisfactory Satisfactory Visual
Inspection
using TS-008

Spew No spew No spew N/A 48 hr @

Visible visible 50°C/90% RH;
then 6 hr @ -20C

Leather/Hardware No surface/ No surface/ No Surface/ 48 hr @

compatibility color color color 50C/90% RH
change change change

Leather Species Confirm Confirm N/A Microscopic

Identification Species Species
(nubuck or split
leathers only)

Lining fiber content N/A N/A AATCC 20

Blends ±3%
100% Fiber ±0%

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

30 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

R-005

Colorfastness to Perspiration and Light

Committee RA50 has written a new bined effects of perspiration and light on 125. It will be available in 2004 and
method titled “Colorfastness to Perspira- apparel fabrics. The method is currently published in the 2005 AATCC Technical
tion and Light” that tests for the com- being balloted as AATCC Test Method Manual.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 31

 R-006

Visual Standards for Pilling

ASTM International Committee D-13 International under the reference number graphic standards (called ASTM Ad-
has visual standards available for rating ADJD 3512. juncts) first contact the Customer Ser-
pilling on both knit and woven fabrics. vice Department to confirm the price.
Another set of photographic standards Then place the order using credit cards
One set of photographic standards has has been designed for use with ASTM or checks.
been prepared for use with ASTM D3514 Standard Test Method for Pilling
D3512 Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface ASTM International Customer
Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Elastomeric Service Department
Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Pad. These photographs have been made 610-832-9585
Tumble Pilling Tester. These photo- as 3 sets of 5 photographs each. They
graphs illustrate pilling ranging from illustrate small, medium, and large pills. ASTM International
severe to no pilling at all. While the The sets are available from ASTM Inter- Customer Service Department
photographs show pilling on woven national under the reference number 100 Barr Harbor Drive
fabric examples, the photographs may ADJD 3514. West Conshohocken, PA 19428
be used for both knits and wovens. The
photographs are available from ASTM When placing orders for the photo- www.astm.org

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

32 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-010

Procedure for Determining Pocket Reinforcement

1. PURPOSE AND SCOPE elongation characteristics, the break- and 65% ±2 RH.
ing load, or the breaking elongation.
1.1 This test method utilizes the grab 7. PROCEDURES
procedure to determine localized 4. SAFETY PRECAUTION 7.1 Patch pocket.
weakness due to bar-tacking in the
4.1 It is the user’s responsibility to use 7.1.1 Mount the area to be tested as
pocket areas of all types of gar-
safe and proper techniques when shown in Fig. 1. The bar-tack area
ments. It can be utilized to test bar-
handling or using any of the equip- should be midway between top and
tacking in the pockets of shirts, as
ment mentioned. bottom clamps and centered verti-
well as side or back pockets of trou-
4.2 Good laboratory practices should be cally. The bar-tack must also be
sers, pants, or jeans.
followed. Wear safety glasses in all perpendicular to the direction of
2. PRINCIPLE laboratory test rooms. force applied.
7.1.2 Activate the cross-head and record
2.1 The pocket area with the bar-tacking 5. APPARATUS AND the ultimate breaking strength.
is mounted centrally in clamps of a MATERIALS 7.2 Side pocket.
tensile strength machine and a force
5.1 Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) 7.2.1 Mount the area to be tested as
is applied until the specimen breaks.
tensile testing machine. shown in Fig. 2. The bar-tack area
5.2 Clamps and jaws, rubber faced or should be midway between top and
3. TERMINOLOGY
other gripping surface. Jaw faces bottom clamps and centered verti-
3.1 Constant-rate-of-extension tensile
must measure 1.0 ±0.02 in. (25 ±1 cally. The bar-tack must also be
testing machine (CRE), n. - a test- perpendicular to the direction of
mm) wide and at least 1 in. (25 mm)
ing machine in which the rate of force applied.
but not more than 2 in. (51 mm) long.
increase of specimen length is uni-
5.3 Set the gauge length at 3 ±0.05 in.
form with time. 8. REPORT
(75 ±1 mm) and the crosshead speed
3.2 Grab test, n. - in fabric testing, a
set at 12 in./min (305 mm/min). 8.1 Report tensile results on the area.
tensile test in which the central part
8.2 Report the mode of failure; i.e., seam
of the width of the specimen is 6. SPECIMEN PREPARATION failure or fabric failure or sewing
gripped in the clamps.
6.1 Cut the garment or the side pocket as thread failure.
3.3 Tensile test, n. - in textiles, a test in
shown in Figs. 1 and 2. 8.3 Report where the break occurs; at
which a textile material is stressed in
6.2 Condition garments for a minimum the jaw (jaw break) or at the pocket
one direction to determine the load-
of 4 hours prior to testing at 70° ±2F seam.

POCKET REINFORCEMENT STRENGTH GRIP LOCATIONS

Fig. 1. Patch pockets. Fig. 2. Side pockets.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 33

TS-011

Performance Guidelines for Seamless Knit Garments

– Intimates including Panties, Slips, Girdles, Etc And
Seamless Swimwear
TABLE I. PERFORMANCE GUIDE EXAMPLES
EVALUATION GUIDE EXAMPLE TEST METHOD

Colorfastness
Colorfastness to Laundering
Color change 4.0 min. AATCC 61-2A
Staining 3.5 min.
Self staining 4.5 min.

Colorfastness to Drycleaning
Color change 4.0 min. AATCC 132
Staining 4.0 min

Colorfastness to Perspiration
Color change 4.5 min. AATCC 15
Staining 3.5 min.

Colorfastness to Water
Color change 4.5 min. AATCC 107
Staining 3.5 min.
Self staining 4.5 min.

Colorfastness to Crocking
Dry 4 min. AATCC 8/116
Wet 3 min.

Colorfastness to Grade 4 min. TS-001

Chlorine Bleach

Colorfastness to Grade 4 min. TS-001

Non-chlorine Bleach

Colorfastness to Light Grade 3.5 min. AATCC 16 Option 3

(20 AFU)

Colorfastness to Sea Water Color change 4 min. AATCC 106

(Swimwear only)

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Color change 4 min. AATCC 162

Pool Water (Swimwear only)

Construction
Courses & Wales Record actual ASTM D3887

Yarn Size & Type Record actual

Fabric Weight Record actual ASTM D3776

Garment Weight Record actual Weigh garment

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 35

 TABLE I. PERFORMANCE GUIDE EXAMPLES (continued)
Construction (continued)
Fiber Content ±3% for blends AATCC 20/20A
0% tolerance for 100% fabrics

Physical Performance
Dimensional Change after -6% wale and course direction AATCC 135
3 home launderings

Dimensional Change -4% wale and course direction AATCC 158

(1 DC)

Pilling 30 minutes 4.0 min. ASTM D3512

60 minutes 3.0 min.

Stretch Report Actual TS-016

Flammability Class 1 16 CFR 1610

Garment Twist 5% max. AATCC 179

Bursting Strength <5 oz 30 lb/in. min. ASTM D3786

≥5 oz 50 lb/in. min.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

36 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-012

Screening and Performance Guidelines for Socks and

Hosiery
The guidelines in Tables I and II are a tance based on critical performance values given may or may not meet indi-
suggested screening protocol that could attributes important to consumers. The vidual retailers’ needs.
be used by retailers to determine accep-

TABLE I. SAMPLING GUIDELINES

Category Number of Samples Tests (if applicable)*

Adult garments including 3 pair – each size and at least Colorfastness to:
pantyhose, tights, stockings, one of each color Laundering
knee-highs, trouser socks Staining
Crocking
Perspiration
Light (tights only)
Bleaches

Physical
Dimensional change
Fit
Appearance after care
Abrasion resistance

Construction/Labeling
Weight
Yarn number
Fiber content

Children’s, infant’s 6 pair – each size and at least See above +

one pair of each color Formaldehyde

Casual, dyed Same as for children’s, infant’s See above +

Fabric strength – heel
and toe only
Seam strength

Athletic, white Same as for children’s, infant’s Colorfastness to:

Bleaches (labeling)
Physical
Same as hosiery +
Fabric strength – heel
and toe only
Toe seam strength

*Other tests for trims, specialty, and infant hosiery or socks may be required; i.e., support properties, skid resistance, strength of trim
attachment, colorfastness to saliva, flammability, and other tests as applicable.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 37

 TABLE II. PERFORMANCE GUIDE EXAMPLES – SOCKS AND HOSIERY
Evaluation Sheer Casual Athletic Test Method

Colorfastness to:
Laundering AATCC 61-2A
Color change 4.0 4.0 NA
Staining 3.0 3.0 NA
Self-staining 4.5 4.5 NA

Crocking AATCC 8/116

Wet 3.0 3.0 NA
Dry 4.0 4.0 NA

Light –20 AFU 3.5 3.5 NA AATCC 16 option 3

Perspiration AATCC 15
Color change 4.0 4.0 4.0
Staining 3.0 3.0 3.0
Self-staining 4.0 4.0 4.0

Bleaches TS-001
Chlorine NA 4.0 4.0
Non-chlorine NA 4.0 4.0

Physical:
Dimensional change, % max. -8.0 x -8.0 -8.0 x -8.0 AATCC 150
length x width

Fit Must fit size Must fit size Must fit size NAHM fit forms*
forms before & forms before & forms before &
Note: The NAHM forms after 3 HL or after 3 HL after 3 HL
alone will not determine hand wash/air
true fit. Stretch in crosswise dry. Panty hose
and lengthwise directions and tights must fit
will provide additional data. waist, leg, seat, etc.
These methods are under
development

Formaldehyde 75 ppm 75 ppm 75 ppm AATCC 112 or

JIS Law 1041

Pilling resistance NA Class 4- 400 Class 4- 400 ASTM D3514

cycles cycles

Seam strength, toe NA 50 lb 50 lb ASTM D3940

Fabric count Record Record Record ASTM D3887

actual actual actual
Fiber content AATCC 20 or
Blends ±3% ±3% ±3% ASTM D629
100% fiber ±0% ±0% ±0%

*NAHM is now The Hosiery Association, 3623 Latrobe Drive, Suite130, Charlotte, NC 28211; phone: 704-365-0913; fax: 704-362-2056;
website http://www.hosieryassociation.com

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

38 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-013

Procedure for Determining Snapping Pressure of Snap

Fasteners
1. PRINCIPLE 4.2 Snapping - using Saf-Q Tester. 4.3 Snapping – using other force gauge.
1.1 To determine the force required in 4.2.1 Rotate the push-pull gauge with
engaging snap fasteners in laboratory the “push” mode facing down. Note:
conditions. 4.2.2 Place the stud (or male part func- The force gauge should be attached to a
tional part of the snap fastener) part stable stand. The plunger should be
2. APPLICATIONS AND of the snap assembly in the station- connected to a hydraulic cylinder
LIMITATIONS ary clamping fixture. that will allow a controlled down-
4.2.3 Place the socket (the female func- ward force (Fig. 2).
2.1 This test method covers the determi-
tional part of the snap fastener) part
nation of the force required to disen-
of the snap on top of the stud part. 4.3.1 Lightly place the socket over the
gage snap fasteners from a pull,
Be sure the socket hole and stud top top without snapping together.
exerted perpendicular to the plane of
are aligned, to prevent the stud from 4.3.2 Place snap pair over the flat sta-
the material to which the snap fas-
hitting the side of the socket causing tionary portion of the gauge.
tener is attached.
a high push force. 4.3.3 If the apparatus is adjustable, lower
2.2 This method is used to compare
4.2.4 Lower the push gauge using the the gauge or plunger until the
different brands to establish correla-
lever (but do not compress at this plunger is approximately 1/8” (Fig.
tion to wear conditions and for com-
time) and position the snap assembly 3) from top or cap of snap socket, at
paring different brands and types of
in alignment with the shaft of the it’s resting position.
snap fasteners attached to the gar-
push-pull gauge. Return the lever to
ment.
its original position after alignment. 4.3.4 Be sure the socket hole and stud
4.2.5 Apply the load on the snap assem- top are aligned, to prevent the stud
3. APPARATUS AND
bly by rotating the hand wheel from hitting the side of the socket
MATERIALS slowly and consistently until the causing a high push force. Once
3.1 Instron Universal Tester or other snap assembly engages completely aligned, slowly lower the plunger
CRE tensile tester. (Fig. 1). until the snap assembly engages
3.2 Saf-Q Tester or other force gauge 4.2.6 Record the test results in pounds. completely. (Fig. 4).
attached to a stand with a lever for 4.2.7 Reset the push gauge for the next
controlled push action. specimen. .3.5 Record value, then repeat 2 times
3.3 Metal plate (1 in. wide by 3.5 in. 4.2.8 Repeat the procedure for the other for a total of 3 readings per snap set.
long) snap fasteners. 4.3.6 Reset push gauge and repeat for
4.2.9 Record value, then repeat 2 more remaining snap fasteners.
4. TEST PROCEDURE times for a total of 3 readings per 4.3.7 Report individual and average
4.1 Test all snap fasteners per garment snap set. results.
regardless of number of snaps in the 4.2.10 Report individual and average
garment. results.

Fig. 1. Loaded snap as- Fig. 2. Force gauge with Fig. 3. Resting position of Fig. 4. Engaged position of gauge/plunger.
sembly. hydraulic cylinder. gauge/plunger.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 39

R-007

Specimen Size in Tensile, Tear, and Bursting Tests

Standard test methodology calls for specimens from the filling direction are specimens are tested on a Standard
specific test conditions, including the to be used for tensile strength evalua- Elmendorf Tester, results might vary by
number of test specimens, in order to tion. When five and eight plain weave 83 cN. Variances might be different for
have consistent test results from one lab fabric specimens are tested on a CRE other fabrics and other amounts of speci-
to another or from one technician to tensile testing machine, results might mens. Consult ASTM D1424 for further
another. If the number of specimens, as vary by ±7 lb. or less. Variances might information.
recommended in the test method is be different for other fabrics and differ-
changed, test results might vary. Ex- ent amounts of specimens. Consult BURSTING STRENGTH
amples of test result variance from some ASTM D5034 for further information. The ASTM D6797 CRE procedure for
commonly practiced physical tests are bursting strength specifies that five (5)
cited below. Consult the precision and TEAR STRENGTH specimens are to be used for bursting
bias statement in standard test methods The ASTM D1424 procedure for strength evaluation. When five woven
to determine possible test result variance. Elmendorf tear strength specifies that specimens are tested on a CRE tensile
five (5) specimens from the warp direc- testing machine using the ball burst
TENSILE STRENGTH tion and five (5) specimens from the method, results might vary by ±10 lb or
The ASTM D5034 procedure for tensile filling direction are to be used for tear less. Variances might be different for
strength specifies that five (5) specimens strength evaluation. When five warp and other fabrics. Consult ASTM D6797 for
from the warp direction and eight (8) five fill direction plain weave sheeting further information.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 41

 TS-014

Performance Guideline for High Stretch Fabrics Used

in Apparel
The guideline in Table I has been devel- determining spandex content. This is a ment of an industry standard. The buyer
oped for fashion apparel items used in performance guideline that falls under and seller of any high stretch fabric
non-high performance applications. It the jurisdiction of ASTM International. must mutually agree upon an acceptable
lists performance specifications and an It is merely a guideline and not a state- standard.
addendum containing a test method for

TABLE I. PERFORMANCE GUIDE EXAMPLES

Evaluation Guide Example Test Method

Tensile Strength Length Width ASTM D5034

Warp 50 lb. min. 45 lb. min.

Tear Strength Length Width ASTM D1424

4.0 lb. min. 3.5 lb. min. ASTM D2261

Stretch One-way Two way TS-016

Non-Washable Wool 20% min. 20% min.
All Others 20% min. 15% min.

Growth TS-016
Wool (Washable and Non-Washable) 3% max.
All others 4% max.

Recovery ASTM D3107

Minimum Elongation 5%; 4 lb. at 2” width
Maximum Growth (30 min) 14% for shirts
10% for bottoms

Dimensional Change to Drycleaning AATCC 158

2 Cycles ±2%

Dimensional Change to Home One-way Two way AATCC 135

Laundering 3 Cycles 3% length 5% width AATCC 150

Fabric Count Report actual ASTM D3775

ASTM D3887

Weight Record actual ASTM D3776

pH General fabrics 6.0 - 8.0 AATCC 81

Wool 4.5 – 7.0

Flammability Class 1 16 CFR 1610

Pilling 3.0 at 300 cycles ASTM D3514

Appearance after Laundering/Drycleaning Grade 3.5 AATCC 124/143

Crocking - General AATCC 8/116

Dry Grade 4
Wet Grade 3

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

42 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TABLE I. PERFORMANCE GUIDE EXAMPLES (continued)

Crocking - Raised Surfaces, Deep Dye AATCC 8/116

or pigment
Dry Grade 3
Wet Grade 2

Lightfastness, 20 AFU Grade 3 AATCC 16

Option 3

Perspiration AATCC 15
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3

Accelerated Laundering - General AATCC 61

Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5

Repeated Laundering – Denim AATCC 135/150

Color Change Grade 3
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 3

Ozone (one cycle) Grade 3 AATCC 109

Bleached Denim and
Indigo Items Only

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 43

 TS-015

Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments

1. PURPOSE AND SCOPE breaking load, or the breaking textile testing of 70 ±2F (21 ±1C)
1.1 This method covers the measure- elongation. and 65% ±2% RH. Condition the
ment of breaking force and elonga- specimens for two hours prior to
tion at break of the seams from
4. SAFETY PRECAUTION testing. Cut a piece of the seam of
different areas of a garment when 4.1 It is the user’s responsibility to use the areas to be tested leaving at least
stretching. safe and proper techniques when one half of an inch of fabric to each
handling or using any of the equip- side of the seam.
2. PRINCIPLE ment mentioned. 7.2 Place and center the top of the seam-
4.2 Good laboratory practices should be piece between the upper jaw and zero
2.1 Force in pounds, as well as the per-
followed. Wear safety glasses in all out the weight of the specimen on the
centage of elongation, is recorded as
laboratory test rooms. Instron. Place the bottom of the
the seams from different areas of the
seam-piece between the lower jaws.
knitted garments are elongated and
broken. The sensitivity of the tensile
5. APPARATUS AND Therefore, the seam should be
tester is set such a way that it stops
MATERIALS placed longitudinally between the
5.1 Instron constant rate-of-extension jaws of the tensile tester. Elongate
in the event of either sewing thread
(CRE) tensile testing machine or the specimen until rupture of the
or the fabric rupture. The seam is
equivalent device. fabric or seam yarns. Repeat with the
placed longitudinally between the
5.2 1 square inch rubber face. second specimen. Record the load in
jaws of the tensile tester unlike the
5.3 Set the crosshead speed at pounds as well as the percentage of
seam strength test.
12 inches/min. elongation based on the crosshead
3. TERMINOLOGY 5.4 Set the gauge length based on the travel distance from the established
available seam length area to be initial gauge length.
3.1 Constant-rate-of-extension tensile
tested. Minimum of two (2) inches 7.3 If the results differ more than 10%
testing machine (CRE), n. - a test-
is recommended. The gauge length repeat the test on a third seam-piece.
ing machine in which the rate of
increase of specimen length is uni- should be measured with a measur-
ing tape or ruler between the upper 8. RESULTS
form with time.
and the lower jaws. 8.1 Report the average load value in
3.2 Grab test, n. - in fabric testing, a
pounds and elongation at break in
tensile test in which the central part
of the width of the specimen is
6. TEST SPECIMENS percentage and the reason of the
6.1 A minimum of two (2) specimens failure.
gripped in the clamps.
(seam-piece) of each area should be Ex: X lb. @ Y% (fabric or yarn break),
3.3 Tensile test, n. - in textiles, a test in
tested. where X = load and Y = elongation at
which a textile material is stretched
break.
in one direction to determine the
load-elongation characteristics, the 7. PROCEDURES
7.1 Test in the standard atmosphere for

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

44 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-016

Procedure for the Stretch and Recovery of Knit Fabrics

1. PURPOSE AND SCOPE 4. PREPARATION AND 5.3 Set the Instron as follows:
1.1 This test method covers the mea- CONDITIONING OF TEST Chart Speed 10 in./min
surement of elongation and recov- SPECIMENS Cross Head Speed 5 in./min
ery properties of stretch fabrics. It Jaw Clamps 3 in. width
4.1 Cut three (3) specimens measuring
will provide the recovery perfor- Gauge Length 10 in.
3” X 15” in the direction of the
mance of the stretch fabric to deter- 5.4 Take one specimen and align the 10-
fabric having stretch properties. If
mine if it is suitable for body fitting inch marking between the jaw
the fabric is designed to have two-
apparel. clamps and tighten. Individually
way stretch, cut three (3) specimens
elongate 3 specimens to 50% (5
in each direction.
2. APPLICATIONS AND inches) and allow to return to zero
4.2 Condition the test specimen in the
LIMITATIONS tension. Measure recovery at zero
standard atmosphere for textiles 70°
tension using the steel ruler.
2.1 This method is applicable to all ±2F and 65 ±2% RH for a minimum
5.5 Record the result at the specified
highly stretchable fabrics, espe- of 4 hours.
elongation (50%) for all 3 specimens
cially those containing spandex.
and average the results.
5. TEST PROCEDURE
3. APPARATUS AND 5.1 Test in the standard atmosphere for
MATERIALS 6. REPORT
textile testing of 70° ±2F and 65
6.1 Report all three (3) individual find-
3.1 Instron CRE tensile testing machine ±2% RH.
ings (6 if fabric has two-way stretch)
or equivalent. 5.2 Using a steel ruler, center a 10-inch
along with the average value in both
3.2 Steel scale (ruler). marking along the 15-inch length of
directions (if applicable).
the fabric on all 3 specimens.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 45

 R-008

Procedure for Professional (Commercial) Wet

Cleaning
ISO (International Organization for Cleaning and Finishing - Part 4: Proce- When available this method may be
Standardization) is in the process of dures for use in the assessment of given to local professional wet cleaners
developing a new standard that ad- cleanability in wet-cleaning systems. to use for testing performance character-
dresses the need for a professional wet The method is at the final draft stage istics (dimensional change, colorfast-
cleaning method. The standard is ISO/ and is expected to be completed in ness, etc.) occurring during the wet
DIS 3175-4 Textiles – Professional 2003. cleaning testing process.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

46 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-017

Procedure for Wicking

This is a draft test method developed in required, each specimen being 25 5.2.3 Monitor the rise of the water and
1999 by AATCC Committee RA8. It is mm wide and 130 mm long, with the record the time to the nearest second
now being reviewed by AATCC Com- longer side parallel to the direction that it takes the 20-mm mark to start
mittee RA63. being tested. Replicates should be bleeding.
cut in such a way that five different 5.2.4 Continue monitoring the rise of the
1. PURPOSE AND SCOPE sets of yarns are tested for both warp water and record the time to the
1.1 This test method measures the dis- (machine) and fill (cross-machine) nearest second that it takes the 30-
tance water will wick up a cut edge directions. mm mark to start bleeding.
of fabric. Caution is advised when 3.2 Mark each specimen across the 5.2.5 Lift the specimen out of the bea-
using the results obtained by this test width at 25 mm from one end, with a ker, remove the specimen and dry
to measure comfort, as comfort water-soluble marking pen. This is off the holder.
involves the ability of a textile to the water immersion line. 5.2.6 Repeat steps 5.2.1 though 5.2.5
absorb water in the flat state. 3.2.1 Place additional marks across the with the remaining specimens.
1.2 The time required for water to travel width of each specimen, with a 5.3 Specimens may have wicking times
specified distances within a textile water-soluble marking pen, at 20 of over 1200 s. It may be desirable
specimen, with one cut edge im- mm and 30 mm distances above the to stop the test after a certain time
mersed, is measured. water immersion line. period. In that instance, record that
1.3 This method is applicable to wovens the test was terminated prior to
and nonwovens. Its applicability to 4. CONDITIONING completion.
knits has not been established. 4.1 Prior to testing, condition the speci- 5.4 If wicking is extremely slow, it may
1.4 This method utilizes distilled water. mens under standard textile testing also be desirable to reduce the
If desired, other liquids may be used conditions (21 +1C, 65 +2% RH) for wicking distance, as long as the
to estimate the wickability of a tex- a minimum of 4 hours. Additionally, same wicking distance is maintained
tile with those liquids. perform the tests in the conditioned within a group of specimens. Any
atmosphere. modifications in the wicking dis-
2. APPARATUS AND tance must also be reported.
REAGENTS 5. PROCEDURE
2.1 A holder that permits the hanging of 5.1 Ensure that the specimen holder is 6. CALCULATION
a specimen into a beaker of water, level. 6.1 Compute the average and standard
with clamps that permit one inch of 5.2 Position a 400-mL beaker under the deviation of wicking times for each
the specimen to be immersed upon specimen holder. Lower the holder set of specimens at 20-mm and 30-
lowering. Note: A suitable device without a specimen. Fill the beaker mm. Shorter wicking times indicate
that will function as a specimen with distilled water such that 25 mm better wickability; longer wicking
holder is a ring stand with a horizon- of the fabric will be immersed. The times indicate poorer wickability.
tal bar. beaker may be marked on the out- 6.2 The results obtained may be used to
2.2 A 400-mL beaker. side for the required water level. compute wicking rates, using the
2.3 Distilled water, with a surface ten- Monitor the water level between following equation:
sion of 72 dynes/cm. (See 1.4) tests, and adjust if necessary, to
2.4 Water soluble marking pen (available assure that specimens are consis- W = d/t, where
commercially). tently immersed to the 25-mm mark.
2.5 Stopwatch. 5.2.1 Insert a specimen into the holder. W = wicking rate, mm/s
Lower the specimen into the beaker. d = wicking distance, mm
3. SPECIMENS 5.2.2 Start the stopwatch as soon as the t = wicking time, s
3.1 Five replicates in each direction are 25-mm mark starts bleeding.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 47

 7. REPORT
Report the individual and average
wicking times, and, if calculated, the
average wick rate, in a table, as shown
in Table I.

TABLE I. WICKING RATE WORKSHEET

SAMPLE I.D. ______________________
20 mm 30 mm
DIRECTION (W/F) _________________

Wick times, s
1
2
3
4
5
Average wick time, s
Std. Dev., s
Average Wick Rate for 20 mm, mm/s
Average Wick Rate for 30 mm, mm/s

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

48 TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT AATCC

TS-018

Procedure for Absorbency

1. PURPOSE AND SCOPE 3. SPECIMENS be used against the human body
1.1 This test is designed to measure the 3.1 Three specimens, each approxi- should be tested.
water absorbency of textiles by mea- mately 200 x 200 mm, are needed 5.1.4 If the drop is not completely ab-
suring the time it takes for a drop of from different areas of the textile. sorbed in 60 seconds, stop the timer
water placed on the fabric surface to and record 60 seconds plus as the
be completely absorbed into the 4. CONDITIONING value.
fabric. 5.1.5 Repeat 5.1.1 through 5.1.3 on the
4.1 Condition test specimens in the
1.2 This test can be used to indicate remaining specimens.
standard textile testing atmosphere
comfort during wear, but is most 5.2 Method B.
(21 +1C, 65 +2% RH) for a mini-
useful in measuring the affects of 5.2.1 Using the rigid template, mark a
mum of 4 hours. Additionally, per-
moisture control treatments used on 9.5-mm circle in the center of the
form tests in the conditioned atmo-
textiles. specimen.
sphere.
1.3 This method uses distilled water. If 5.2.2 Place the specimen across the
desired, other liquids may be used to 5. PROCEDURES beaker or petri dish so that the center
estimate the absorbency of a textile of the circle is in the center of the
5.1 Method A.
with those liquids. opening of the beaker or petri dish.
5.1.1 Place the test specimen across the
5.2.3 With the medicine dropper held 1
top of the beaker or petri dish so that
2. APPARATUS AND cm above the specimen, place the
it is unsupported in the middle, and
REAGENTS drop of water in the center of the
as flat and smooth as possible.
drawn circle.
2.1 A 76-mm glass medicine dropper 5.1.2 With the medicine dropper held 1
5.2.4 Stop the timer when water reaches
capable of dispensing 20 drops per cm above the specimen, place one
any portion of the inside edge of the
mL. drop of water in the center of the
drawn circle.
2.2 Distilled water, with a surface ten- specimen, and start the timer.
5.2.5 Repeat 5.2.1 through 5.2.4 on the
sion of 72 dynes/cm. 5.1.3 Observe the drop from approxi-
remaining specimens.
2.3 A beaker, petri dish, or hoop with a mately a 45 degree angle, and stop
76 to 127 mm opening (that allows the timer when the drop is com- 6. CALCULATION
supporting the outer edge of a speci- pletely absorbed into the specimen,
men while leaving the center unsup- 6.1 Calculate the average and standard
recording the time to the nearest
ported, without stretching). deviation for the times noted. Shorter
second. Note: Complete absorption
2.4 A rigid template that permits draw- times indicate better absorbency.
has occurred when there is no specu-
ing a 9.5-mm (3/8 inch) circle, such lar reflectance (i.e., the drop leaves a
as a penny or metal washer with a
7. REPORT
dull wet spot). Also, some textiles
9.5-mm hole in the middle. show a difference in absorbency 7.1 Report the average absorbency time,
2.5 Stopwatch or timer. when tested on the face or back. and whether Method A or B was
Preferably, the side of the fabric to used.

The procedures and guidelines in this publication are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in
the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Therefore, these documents are “provisional” and are not
considered to be universally acceptable or legally binding by the trade. In case of dispute or litigation, standard test methods will supercede in this publication.

AATCC TECHNICAL SUPPLEMENT 49

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