Classification of dyes Based on Application:

No single class of dye can dye all fibers.

A specific class of dye can only be applied to a given type of
textile fiber.
1. Acid Dye
2. Basic Dye
3. Mordant Dye
4. Direct Dye
5. Azoic Dye
6. Sulphur Dye
7. Vat Dye
Acid dyes
1. Acid dyes are highly water soluble, and have better light
fastness than basic dyes.
2. The textile acid dyes are effective for protein fibers such as
silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylics.
3. They contain sulphonic acid groups, which are usually
present as sodium sulphonate salts.
4. These increase solubility in water, and give the
dye molecules a negative charge.
5. In an acidic solution, the -NH2 functionalities of the fibres
are protonated to give a positive charge: -NH3+.
 6. This charge interacts with the negative dye charge,
allowing the formation of ionic interactions.
7. As well as this, Vander-Waals bonds, dipolar bonds and
hydrogen bonds are formed between dye and fibre.
8. As a group, acid dyes can be divided into two sub-groups:
acid-leveling or acid-milling.
Example of acid dyes is ORANGE II
Basic Dye
1. Basic dyes are used to dye wool, leather and Paper.
2. They have poor affinity to cotton and cellulose fiber and
hence they dyed with the help of mordant.
3. It is poor fast to light.
4. They contain basic nitrogen in the form of amino group.
5. Basic Dyes examples are: Crystal Violet, Rhodamine B

Mordant Dye
1. These dyes can be applied or fixed on wool or other textile
material with the help of an auxiliary chemical which is
called as mordant and hence these dyes are called as
mordant dyes.
2. The mordant are use to increase the dye – fiber affinity.
3. There are two types of mordant, acid mordant and basic
mordant.
4. Mordant Dye examples are Eriochrome Black and
Alizarin.
DIRECT DYES
1. Direct dyes used for Cotton, Viscose, Silk & Nylon.
2. These dyes are easily applied from aqueous solution so
they are called as direct dye.
3. Direct Dyes have a good light fastness but only moderate
wash fastness.
4. It is possible to improve on wash fastness by after-
treatment of dyed article with dye- fixing agent.
5. These dyes are principally used for “not so expansive”
products or product with fewer washes such as T-shirts,
curtains & theatre productions.
AZOIC DYES
1. The dyes belong to this class are not ready made dyes but
are formed on the substrate itself by the use of two
components usually napthols and base.
2. The formation of this insoluble dye within the fabric makes
it very fast to washing.
3. The deposition of the dye on the surface of the fiber
produces poor rub fastness, but once the loose dye is
removed by boiling the fabric in soap, the dyeing becomes
one of the fastest available.
4. AZOIC DYES normally dyed in cold for all natural fibers.
5. Naphtol dyes are not sold in the form of a "finished dye"
but in form of their components (Insoluble azo base & fast
colour coupling compound) which combine on the fibre to
produce a water insoluble azo dye of exceptional fastness
properties.
6. Azoic Dyes examples are Bismark Brown , Methyl Red, and
Congo Red.
VAT DYES
1. INDIGO, probably the oldest dye known to man, is one of
the most important members of this group.
2. Natural indigo extracted from the plant 'Indigofera
tinctorie' was used by the Egyptians in 200 BC.
3. The first synthetic indigo was introduced to the textile
trade in 1897 & had the effect of completely replacing the
natural product.
4. Although the vat dyes may be divided into 3 chemical
groups, they are similar in that they are insoluble in water
& become water soluble when reduced in the presence of
an alkali.
5. After dyeing, the fabric is oxidized & the dye again
becomes water insoluble.
6. Because of the time consuming & costly procedure in
reducing vat dye into a water-soluble complex, dye
manufacturers have produced a stabilized water- soluble
vat dye.
7. This dye can be applied to cotton & viscose rayon by the
methods used by applying direct cotton dyes.
8. After the dyeing, a simple treatment restores the vat dye
to its normal insoluble state.
9. Solubilized vat dyes have an affinity for cellulose & animal
fibres.
10. When the ultimate in wash & boil fastness is
required.
11. Also used to dye over fibre reactive dyes for multi-
layered dyeing.
O HO

NH NH
Forward Reduction

NH Reverse Oxidation NH

O OH
Indigo Indigo-white Leucobase
Blue, Water insoluble colourless water insoluble
-
H O H O

N Forward Reducing agent N

Na2S2O4/OH-
Reverse Oxidizing agent
N H2O2 or air N
-
O H O H
Leuco dye
Vat dye

12. Indigo (Blue, water insoluble) Forward Reduction and

reversed oxidation converted to Indigo-white Leucobase
(Colourless water insoluble)
13. Vat Dye forward reaction (Reducing agent
Na2S2O4/OH-) and reversed reaction ( Oxidizing agent H2O2
or air ) converted to LEUCO DYE.
SULPHUR DYES
1. The first Sulphur dye was discovered in France in 1873, &
further work done by Raymond Videl enabled the
manufacture of 'Videl black".
2. Its outstanding fastness to light, washing & boiling far
surpassed any cotton black known at that time.The
general disadvantage of the Sulphur dyes that they
produce dull shades & lack a red.
SULPHUR DYES - USE:
1. The use of Sulphur dyes is restricted to dull brown, Khaki &
Navy shades, where a good wash but not boil-fastness is
required.
2. Most Khaki & Navy overalls are dyed with Sulphur dyes.
3. An outstanding member of this family is Sulphur black.
4. It dyes all cellulose fibres, but particularly linen & jute, to a
lustrous & deep black with excellent wash & light fastness.
5. Sulphur dyes are dyed from a dye bath containing Sodium
Sulphide & common or Glaubers Salt, & are oxidized by
airing or with some oxidizing agents (Sodium Dichromate
or Hydrogen Peroxide) in a fresh bath.
 Chemical Structure:-
O
NH S
S NH2
O N N
H2N

Sulphur Dye

Main Properties of the Sulfur Dyes

1. Economical dyeing with excellent tinctorial value and good

build up properties.
Good overall colorfastness properties such as wash fastness ,
light fastness , perspiration fastness etc. Moderate fastness to
crocking and poor fastness to chlorines bleaching agents such
as bleaching powder and sodium hypochlorite
3.Limited shade range to produce only dull shades and there is
no true red dye in the range.
4.These dyes can be applied by exhaust, semi continuous or
continuous dyeing methods on garment , yarn , knits, fabric as
well as loose stock etc
Types of Sulfur Dyes
There are three classes of sulfur dyes, which are available
commercially,
1.Conventional water insoluble dyes which have no
substantively to cellulosics.
2.Solubilised sulfur dyes , which are water soluble and non
substantive to cellulosics.
3.Pre-reduced sulfur dyes, in the stabilized leuco compound
form , which are substantive to cellulosics.
REACTIVE DYES
1. The main feature of the dyestuff is its low affinity to
cellulose; therefore large amounts of salt are required to
force its deposition on he fabric
2. After this has been achieved, addition of alkali causes the
deposited dyes to react with the fiber.
3. Only a successfully concluded reaction guarantees a fast
dyeing.
4. Basically there are two types of reactive dyes: the cold
dyeing & hot dyeing types
REACTIVE DYES
REACTIVE DYES - USE:

1. Cold water fibre reactive dyes, suitable for dyeing on

cotton, silk, jute, rayon & hessian.
2. Cannot be used on synthetics or fabric that has been
coated with resin or drip-dry finish.
3. Reactive dyes are used where bright dyeing with high light
& wash fastness is required.
4. Cold dyeing is used extensively in batik work.
5. Although some reactive dyestuffs have been specially
modified to dye wool, their main usage is in dyeing cotton
linen & viscose rayon.
Dyes and its classification
Introduction
1. Dyes are colored organic compounds that are used to
impart color to various substrates, including paper,
leather, fur, hair, drugs, cosmetics, waxes, greases, plastics
and textile materials.
2. A Dye is a colored compound, normally used in solution,
which is capable of being fixed to a fabric.
3. To be of use, dyes must possess the following four
properties:
i. Colour
ii. Solubility in water
iii. Ability to be absorbed and retained by fibre
(substantivity) or to be chemically combined with it
(reactivity).
iv. Ability to withstand washing, dry cleaning and exposure
to light.
4. The dye has a colour due to the presence of chromophore
and its fixed property to the acid or basic groups such as
OH,SO3H, NH2, NR2, etc.
5. The polar auxochrome makes the dye water-soluble and
binds the dye to the fabric by interaction with the
oppositely charged groups of fabric structure.
 Classification
There are several ways for classification of dyes.Each class of
dye has a very unique chemistry, structure and particular way
of bonding. While some dyes can react chemically with the
substrates forming strong bonds in the process, others can be
held by physical forces. Some of the prominent ways of
classification are:
i. Classification based on the source of materials
ii. Classification of the Dyes- Based on the nature of their
respective chromophores.
iii. Classification by methods of application.

Classification based on the source of materials

A very common classification of the dyestuff is based on the
source from which it is made. Accordingly the classification
could be:
• Natural Dyes
• Synthetic Dyes
Natural Dye
Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants,
invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are
vegetable dyes from plant sources. E.g. roots, berries, bark,
leaves, and wood. Other organic sources include fungi and
lichens.
Synthetic Dyes
Almost all the colors that you see today are Synthetic dyes.
Synthetic dyes are used everywhere in everything from
clothes to paper, from food to wood. This is because they are
cheaper to produce, brighter, more color-fast, and easy to
apply to fabric. For Example Acid Dyes, Azo Dyes, Basic Dyes,
Mordant Dyes, etc
Classification of the Dyes- Based on the nature of their
respective chromophores.
Dyes may be classified according to the type of chromophores
present in their structures.
1. Nitro and Nitroso Dyes
2. Azo Dyes
3. Triarylmethane Dyes
4. Anthraquinone Dyes
5. Indigo dyes
Nitro and Nitroso Dyes
These dyes contain nitro or nitroso groups as the
chromophores and –OH as auxochrome.
• A few examples are: Mordant green 4 and Naphthol yellow S

O
ONa N

O 2N SO 3Na HO

NO 2
Mordant green 4
Naphthol yellow S

Azo Dyes
Azo dye is a large class of synthetic organic dyes that contain
nitrogen as the azo group −N=N− as primary chromophore
their molecular structures. More than half the commercial
dyes belong to this class. These dyes are highly coloured and
are prepared by diazotizing an aromatic amine and coupling
with suitable aromatic compound.
Examples of Azo dyes are: Para Red, Methyl Orange, Bismarck
Brown, Congo Red.
Azo dyes account for approximately 60-70% of all dyes used in
food and textile manufacture. In theory, azo dyes can supply a
complete rainbow of colours, but yellow/red dyes are more
common as blue/brown dyes.
Triarylmethane dyes
Triarylmethane dyes are synthetic organic compounds
containing triphenylmethane backbones. These
compounds are intensely colored and are produced
industrially.
• In triarymethane dyes a central carbon is bonded to three
aromatic rings, one is in the quinoid form. Auxochromes
areNH2, NR2 and OH.