Vacuum Forming Guide

for the Classroom

Table of Content
Page #

Introduction 3

Applications of Vacuum Forming 4-5

The Vacuum Forming Process Step-by-Step 6-7

Key Things to Consider During the Forming Process 8

Mould Materials and Mould Design 9-15

Mould Design: Basic Considerations 16-18

Common Problems (and their Simple Solutions) 19-20

Finishing and Trimming 21-22

Final Thoughts and Other Resources 23

Plastic Materials and their Characteristics 24-27

Plastics and their Heating Times 28-29

Introduction
Thermoforming has been around for a very long
time, and has transformed the world that we live
in. It is a process that has helped to make items
from the simplest of food packaging trays, to car
interior parts, sets and costumes in Hollywood
blockbuster movies, life saving medical equipment,
and even components for space exploration.
The possibilities of this production method are
endless, with applications seen in almost every
industry you can think of. Despite seeing and using
thermoformed plastics every day, not everyone has
even heard about thermoforming before, let alone
had the chance to use it to design and manufacture
something fresh out of their own imagination.

‘Thermoforming’ is used to describe any process

in which heat is used to shape and mould plastic,
although in this guide we will be talking specifically
about ‘vacuum forming’, which can certainly be
considered part of the thermoforming family, only
with some very important extras.

The simplest description of the vacuum forming

process is that of a sheet of plastic having heat
applied to it until it softens, before being draped
over a mould. A strong suction of air, or ‘vacuum’,
is applied from below, attracting the soft plastic
over the mould to adopt its shape. Once cooled,
the mould can be removed, leaving just a perfectly
formed plastic component. A very simple process,
but one which is hugely popular, effective, fast, and
easy. The early 1900s saw the development of the
first thermoforming machines. They were big, and
took up a huge amount of space. We’re glad to
say that things have changed a bit since then, and
thermoforming equipment today can be so small it
might fit on a school desk.

In this guide we will be exploring the potential of the

Formech vacuum forming machine that you have
available, covering all aspects of how to use it, what
to use it for, how to produce your moulds to form over,
and all the tricks of the trade that go along with it. This
document will be your one stop guide which you can
refer back to at any point during a project that involves
vacuum forming, to find all the answers, hints and tips
you might be looking for. Once you’ve got to grips
with the contents of this guide, there will be just one
question left unanswered; what are you going to make?

3
Applications of Vacuum Forming

Aeronautical Manufacturers
> Interior Trim Panels, Covers and Cowlings
Internal sections for NASA Space Shuttle

Agricultural Suppliers Computer Industry

> Seed Trays, Flower Tubs, Animal Containers, > Manufacture of Screen Surrounds
Clear Growing Domes > Soft Transparent Keyboard Covers Enclosures
> Calf Milking Receptacles, Machines Parts and Ancillary Equipment
> Lawnmower Enclosures and Covers
Design Industry
Architectural Model Makers > Production of prototypes and Pre-Production Runs
> Production of Miniature Parts for > Prototype Concepts for other Plastic Processes
Architectural Models
> Prototypes Film and Media Industry
> Manufacture of Costumes and Sets
Automotive and Vehicular Industry > Animation Models and Mock Ups for
> Wheel Hub Covers, Ski-Boxes and Storage Racks, Computer Simulation
Wind Tunnel Models, Parts for All Terrain Vehicles
Truck Cab Door Interiors, Wind and Rain Deflectors
> Scooter Shrouds, Mudguards, Bumpers and
Protective Panels
> Battery and Electronic Housings, Prototype
and Development work
> Utility Shelves, Liners, Seat Backs, Door Inner liners
and Dash Surrounds
> Windshields, Motorcycle Windshields, Golf Cart
Shrouds, Seats and Trays
> Tractor Shrouds & Door Fascia, Camper Hardtops
and Interior Components

Building and Construction Industry

> Drainpipe Anti Drip fittings
> Roof Lights, Internal Door Liners, PVC Door Panels,
Producing Moulds for Concrete Paving Stones and
Special Bricks
> Moulded Features for Ceilings, Fireplaces
and Porches

Boat Building industry

> Boat Hulls, Covers and Hatches Electrical
Enclosures, Dashboards

Chocolate industry
> Manufacture of Chocolate Moulds for
Specialised Chocolates
> Easter Eggs etc. and Packaging

4
Furniture Manufacturing Industry
> Chair and Seat Backs
> Cutlery tray inserts
> Kitchen Unit Panels and Storage Modules

Hospitals and Medical Applications Sanitary Industry

> Radiotherapy Masks for Treatment > Bathroom Fittings
of Cancer Patients > Bathtubs, Jacuzzis and Whirlpools
> Pressure Masks for Burn Victims > Shower Surrounds, Shower Trays and Retrofit
> Prosthesis Parts Shower Components
> Dental Castings
> Parts for Wheelchairs and Medical Devices Souvenir Industry
for the Disabled > Making parts for and moulds to cast craft souvenirs

Machinery Manufacturers Sports Industry

> Fabricating machine guards > Helmets, Guards and Gum Shields
and electrical enclosures
Theatre
Model Car and Aircraft Industry > Manufacture of Props, Sets and Costumes
> Production of bodies fuselages and other
parts for models Toy Industry
> Games, Action Figures, Packaging, Dolls,
Museums and Prototyping
> Variety of applications within Science
and Natural History Museums

Packaging and related Industries

> Point of Purchase
> Trays and Plates
> Cosmetic Cases and Packages
> Electronics and Cassette Holders
> Blister Pack Products, Skin Pack Products Food
Trays, Cups and Fast Food Containers

Plastic Sheet Extrusion

> Testing and Sampling of Extruded Sheet

Signage Industry
> Exterior Signs Point of Sale Displays

Education
> Training Aids for Students Studying Polymers
and Plastic Processing

Electronics Industry
> Manufacturing Enclosures for Specialist
Electronic Equipment
> Anti-Static Component Trays

5
The Vacuum Forming Process: Step-by-Step

Vacuum forming machines are simple in their function, although this has come over decades of development
and advances within both engineering and plastics knowledge. The vacuum forming machine needs the
presence of just 3 things to produce high quality and consistent plastic products; a mould, sheet plastic
material, and an operator who understands its basic operation (that operator is you!). It is here where we
will walk through the basics of the machine, and how to carry out a successful vacuum form.

Forming Area

Heater
Clamp Frame

Table Lever

The Formech machine will need to be switched on 15 minutes before it is to be used, with the heater in its
back position. This is to allow the heaters to heat up and deliver a consistent and even temperature.

The table can be raised by simply pulling the lever towards you until it clicks. The mould to be vacuum formed
over can be placed on the table and positioned centrally, and the table then slowly lowered, seeing the mould
now go inside the vacuum forming machine.

A sheet of plastic material can be placed over the aperture plate, as if putting a lid on the space containing
the mould. The clamp frame can be lowered and secured in place. The tight clamp will create an airtight
seal between the aperture window and the plastic sheet, creating perfect conditions for the vacuum
forming process.

Release Pump

Vacuum Switch Pressure Gauge

Power Indicator Temperature Control

6
The heater can now be pulled forward to cover the clamped plastic, and be given the appropriate length of
time to heat the material depending upon both its thickness, and the type of plastic material used. The heater
can be moved back and forth to check on the material as needed.

Having had ample time to heat the plastic, the heater can be pushed back all the way. The sheet material
should have a visible slight sag, indicating that it is ready to be vacuum formed.

The table can then be raised completely using the lever, at which point the mould will be seen pushing into the
heated plastic sheet from below. The vacuum pump can be switched on, which will draw air out from under
the mould, attracting the soft plastic over it. The vacuum pump might be applied for 15 seconds or more, to
ensure a high definition form, and to allow some time for the plastic to cool.

The vacuum pump can now be switched off, and then the exhaust/release pump is pulsed once or twice.
Rather than removing air like the vacuum pump, the exhaust/release pump does just the opposite, pushing
air in from below. This pushes the plastic material up very slightly and encourages mould release.

The table lever can be lowered slightly, lowering the table just a short distance lower than the aperture
window. By then tapping gently on the plastic material, the mould will be released from the formed shape,
and sit back on the table. The table can now be slowly lowered completely.

The clamps can now be unclipped, and the clamp frame raised. The user will now have their completed
vacuum formed product, ready to have excess plastic material trimmed off.

Once one forming cycle has been completed you will have a good idea of how long heat needs to be applied
to the plastic material for it to be vacuum formed. You can now begin using the integrated timer which is
available on most Formech machines, or use an external timer to aid the vacuum forming process, removing
the need to check on the plastic during the heating cycle.

7
Key Things to Consider During the Forming Process

It is important to heat the plastic material appropriately to gain the perfect vacuum form. This comes with the
experience of just a few forming cycles, although a good general rule is to apply 20 seconds of heat for every
0.5mm of thickness of the plastic material. For example, 1.5mm thick plastic requires approximately
60 seconds of heat. This varies between type of plastic material used, but these timings can be a good place
to start (see page 28).

Do not touch the heated plastic material with your hand or any other object during the heating cycle. This
may cause harm or damage the material itself. Rely on the visible slight sag as the indicator for the optimum
temperature to perform the vacuum form, or use a temperature gun to aid you.

Do not attempt to raise the table of the vacuum forming machine when the heaters are in the
forward position. This may damage the lever mechanism, or the heating elements. Most vacuum forming
machines have a safety mechanism which will not allow the table to be raised unless the heaters are in their
fully back position, or for the heaters to be pulled forwards if the table is raised.

When lowering the table, be sure to make this a smooth and steady motion rather than dropping it. This will
prevent any damage or movement of the mould within the forming area, and reduce stress on the machine.

Always remember, this machine produces heat that reaches very high temperatures. Do not touch or put
anything on top of the heating draw of the machine, or put your hand under the heating draw itself.

When plastic cools from its heated state, it will shrink just a small fraction; anything between 0.3 – 1.5mm.
With this in mind do not leave the mould inside the vacuum formed product for any longer than it needs to be.
This will enable ease of mould release.

If there are any issues or problems with your final vacuum formed product, these are often for simple reasons
and will have easy solutions. These will be addressed later in this guide (see page 19).

8
Mould Materials and Mould Design

Mould design is for most people the most exciting

and rewarding part of the vacuum forming process.
It is here that you can draw upon everything that
is in your imagination as a designer, an artist, or an
engineer, and realize it in a real physical object. The
mould, sometimes called the ‘tool’, is the object
which is placed on the table of the vacuum forming
machine over which heated plastic will be formed.
This mould is the most important part of the vacuum
forming process, as without its considered and
purposeful design, there would be limited success
in the forming process.

Successful mould design will enable the machine

operator to produce high definition, high quality
vacuum formed products, to the production amount
required before mould degradation (when the mould
begins to lose its shape or stability).

There are a few considerations to make when

designing your mould, from its shape, to the material
used, to airflow, to size, and spacing, but don’t worry;
in this section of the guide we will take you through
each consideration, and have you making perfect
custom moulds which produce perfect vacuum
formed products.

Mould Materials

There are a wide variety of mould materials available

to choose from, from clay, to wood, to MDF, resin
and more, which can be selected based upon a list of
requirements for the designer and the final vacuum
formed product.

• How many times will the mould need to be

vacuum formed?
• How much detailing will the mould involve?
• How are you going to shape or tool the mould?
• How much does the mould need to cost?
Is there a budget?
• How much time do you have to produce the mould?

These are all questions that need to be considered

before selecting the mould material. Here we will
go through each material one by one, covering its
benefits and drawbacks, which should help you make
the correct choice in your mould material choices.

9
Wood / Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF) Modelling Clay

Wood and MDF are very popular mould materials Modelling clay is widely used as a mould material
due to their low cost and ease of tooling. Using a due to its incredible ease of shaping and very low
range of simple woodworking tools and techniques, cost. For simple mould designs the designer might
the designer is able to produce a mould with relative even use just their hands to shape and mould the
ease which is capable of withstanding hundreds of material to their desired shape. This makes it an ideal
vacuum forming cycles. material for producing a one-off item, or to
prototype a product quickly.
If using wood, harder woods are recommended due
to their close-knit grain and higher strength, which
also makes them more resistant to heat. To increase
wooden mould strength even further, finished moulds
might be sealed with varnish to increase
their production run lifespan, although this is
something seen mainly in industry rather than
in smaller workshops, and so this is by no means
necessary for single or small run production.

MDF is especially easy to work with, with designers

often stating that “it cuts like butter”, which is very
true. MDF is not as strong as wood, but certainly
performs well in the vacuum forming process,
whilst providing a fast and effective mould
making material.

All woods will expand and contract with every

heating and cooling cycle, which means that over
extended use they will display visible degradation
with cracks and deformity. That said, this material is
a favoured material in education and small factories
due to its cost, time, and ease of tooling benefits.
Venting holes will need to be applied to most wood
and MDF moulds. One big disadvantage of clay is its fragility, or lack
of strength. It performs well for a limited number
of forming cycles before becoming brittle, at which
point cracks will begin to appear and shape will be
lost. This makes it ideal for only a very short
production run.

Clay moulds will need to be dried completely before

being vacuum formed to ensure that they hold their
shape during the vacuum forming process. The heat
and pressure applied during a forming cycle will
most likely deform any clay mold that has not been
allowed to dry thoroughly. Dried clay moulds will also
likely require few or no venting holes applied, as the
material is relatively porous and will allow air to flow
through it. It should be possible to push a wire through
the clay before it has dried to create vacuum holes.

10
Foam

Foam material can be one of the cheapest, and easiest materials to shape. When we talk about foam, we
mean large sheets of building insulation foam that can be cut to the desired shape very quickly, using a
machine or hand saw, or a hot wire cutter. Using a variety of both hand and machine tools, detail can be
added and some very impressive moulds produced. Due to this ease of working, it is a popular material for
prototyping or single run vacuum forms. We recommend that you use a foam with a small bubble structure
so that you get a good quality end result, that is less likely to crumble.

It may be quick and easy to work with, but be warned, foam material has a very low level of heat resistance,
and its shape will be affected by the heat produced during a forming cycle. This means that a foam mould
may only be suitable for a handful of vacuum forms. To increase its cycle life and to encourage ease of mould
release, a foam mould might have a layer of aluminium tape, or simple aluminium kitchen foil applied to any
surface which will come into contact with heated plastic material. This will greatly reduce any stress caused
by heat. It is also a very light material, and with the vacuum forming process relying on the movement of air,
it is advisable to secure the mould to the vacuum forming machine table before with some double sided tape,
before beginning the forming process.

11
Cast Epoxy Resin

Epoxy resin begins life in liquid form, most often two

separate liquids which are mixed together; the resin,
and a hardener agent. When combined and mixed
thoroughly, they can be poured into a prepared
mould and allowed to set, creating a very hard and
very durable mould to be vacuum formed. These
resins are available in many different varieties, and
can take anything between 30 minutes and 12 hours
to set completely.

Imagine having a large animal shaped jelly mould. This

would be the perfect mould to use to create a vacuum
forming mould using resin. Having coated the inside
of the jelly mould with a silicon release agent spray to
encourage the final resin mould to be released, mixed
resin can be poured in and allowed to set, following the
manufacturers instructions. You could also pour resin
into a mould you have made yourself out of wood, or
a vacuum formed part made previously.

This is a good example of how a mould might be

made quickly, easily and cheaply using clay, and
allowed to dry. Once the clay mould has been
vacuum formed, the newly formed plastic shape can
then be used to cast epoxy resin within, creating an
incredibly durable and strong replica of the original
clay mould, perfect for repeated forming cycles.

The main benefit of resin as a mould material is its

long life and durability. Unlike clay, a well-made resin
mould will be fit to withstand hundreds of forming
cycles with little or no visible sign of aging, or
decrease in quality of the vacuum formed product.

The only real draw backs of casting moulds from

resin are the relatively high expense, length of time
required, and the need to source or make an original
mould within which to pour the resin in its liquid
form. Resin is also a non-porous material, which
means that no air can pass through it, therefore
venting holes will need to be applied for most
moulds made from this material.

12
3D Printing

This is where vacuum forming and computer

technology meet in the middle, and we find ourselves
with a wonderful tool with which to produce a mould
to be vacuum formed. 3D printers have become
increasingly cheaper and much more common in
recent years, and can be found in most schools and
workshops around the country. They allow an object
to be designed using Computer Aided Design (CAD),
which can then be printed as a 3D physical object
using a wide variety of materials. This allows the
designer complete control over the size, dimensions,
and specifics of the object to be printed, which can
be produced sitting in front of a computer rather
than in a workshop using traditional tools and
materials. Alternatively, 3D printing files can be
downloaded from online sources, and scaled up or
down as desired. Either way, they can be printed with
the single click of a mouse.

The types of materials and processes used to 3D

print objects vary widely in both characteristics and
cost, but two processes which are commonly used are
FDM and PolyJet. The FDM process produces a high
quality and heat resistant mould, which is porous by
design with no need for venting holes. The PolyJet
process also produces high quality results, whilst
being known for producing very smooth finished
surfaces, although does not produce a porous mold,
and so venting holes will need to be considered
at the CAD stage. When 3D printing using either
of these processes, it is advisable to use ABS or
polycarbonate materials over PLA material. This
is simply to ensure that the 3D printed mould will
perform well when exposed to heat and pressure
during the vacuum forming process. PLA moulds are
known to lose their shape much more quickly than
ABS and polycarbonate 3D printed moulds.

3D printing a mould to be vacuum formed certainly

opens up many new possibilities and challenges
for designers and manufacturers during the mould
making process. 3D printing a single small object can
often take in excess of 12 hours, and so alternative
mould materials might well be better suited to school
projects or simple designs, but no one can discount
3D printing as a real benefit to designers during the
mould design process.

13
Computer Numerical Control (CNC) Aluminium Cast
Machined Tooling Board

CNC is a method used widely in industry to cut Aluminium is a favoured material for moulds used
materials to shape, using a rotary cutting tool whose in mass production lines using vacuum forming. It is
path is controlled by a computer. With the mould incredibly strong whilst remaining incredibly light, and
material laid stationary on a machine’s table, the allows heat to dissipate quickly following the forming
tool then works its way around above it, changing cycle, reducing the need to cool it down between
its height and direction, cutting away material as it cycles on lengthy production lines where temperatures
goes. This is a method of tooling which is unlikely can get very high. It can be machined by human
to be readily available for High School level students, control or CNC, or can be cast to the desired shape.
but never the less not impossible. Because it is so Just like CNC, it is unlikely to be found in High School
widely used in industry, it is important it receives workshops, but certainly helps give context to the
a mention in this guide. range of mould materials available to designers
and engineers within the mould making process.
Materials for which CNC is widely used might include
MDF, tooling/model board, aluminium or Alwapor
porous board. All of these cut relatively easily and
produce moulds perfectly suited to vacuum forming,
whilst providing a high level of control and detail.
Just like 3D printing, all the hard work takes place
behind a computer, with the physical shaping of the
materials being done by an automated machine.
Tooling paths can be produced on a computer using
specialist software, or downloaded from various
online sources.

14
Any suitable existing object

One of the most enjoyable parts of design and engineering is being inspired by the world around you,
and using ‘organic’ objects to aid the design process. This can be true of the designs that you draw on
paper, and also of the materials you use, and mould materials are no different.

Imagine making a number of plastic plant pots using vacuum forming as your production method. You might
need to design and produce six identical plant pot moulds from a suitable material listed above, dedicating
time, effort, money, materials, and hard work to the process. Alternatively, you might choose to simply use six
existing terracotta plant pots as your moulds. They are both strong and heat resistant, and the correct shape
to be vacuum formed over. This alleviates a great deal of time and resources, enabling you to move through
your production process much more effectively.

This use of an existing physical object is not exclusive to simple terracotta plant pots, rather it is wide reaching
and applies to many objects all around you. So long as the object you choose is both heat resistant and strong,
as well as abiding by some very simple mould design basic requirements (see page 15) it may well make the
perfect mould for the project you are completing.

15
Mould Design: Basic Considerations

In addition to mould materials, any designer must

also think about mould design requirements when
designing their mould. In this section we will explore
just a few brief, but absolutely essential requirements
for mould design, so listen up, this is important.

Draft Angles

When designing a mould it is important to think

about working draft angles into the design. These
are very slight tapers which are applied to the outer
edges of the mould, and any substantial angles
within. They aid both the distribution of plastic
material during the vacuum forming process, and
mould release. These inward tapers do not need
to be dramatic or hugely visible, although the
bigger the draft angle, the more successful the
vacuum forming process and mould release will be.
It is recommended that draft angles should be a
minimum of 3º - 5º.

Imagine vacuum forming over a perfect 10cm cube

of wood material. The cube would be lifted into the
heated plastic material when raising the machine
table, and when the vacuum pump is applied the
material would be sucked straight down to form over
the sides of the cube. This means that the material
will be stretched thinner than desired, creating
weak spots in the final vacuum formed product. This
is called ‘thinning’. If we now think about mould
release, the uniform cube shape does not lend itself
well to this process. The heated plastic will have
stretched, formed, and importantly cooled over the
cube mould. We know from earlier in this guide that
plastic shrinks during the cooling process, which
means that in this case it will now be formed very
tightly around the cube mould, creating a situation
where it will be very difficult to release the mould
without damaging the formed plastic.

Now, imagine this same 10cm cube, only with the 4

outer edges with 5º draft angles applied. The plastic
material would not be nearly as stretched during the
forming process, nor would the cooled plastic clamp
around the wooden mould, making for much easier
mould release, and this, is the magic of draft angles.

16
Venting Undercuts

We know that vacuum forming relies heavily on Undercuts are very rarely seen in any vacuum
airflow to attract heated plastic over a mould. It’s forming mould. 99% of moulds will have no
quite simple; the greater the amount of airflow, the undercuts at all, and there is very good reason for
more successful the vacuum forming process will this. Imagine vacuum forming over a dining plate,
be. With this in mind, every mould produced should which has a very visible undercut all the way around
have venting holes considered. These are holes which its outer edge. During the forming cycle plastic
are made from the top of the mould, right the way material would be formed over, and indeed under
through the mould material and out of the base, the plate itself. This would make it impossible to
creating a channel for air to flow completely through. remove the dining plate from the formed plastic
They do not need to be a huge diameter and can in material. This simple consideration should be applied
fact be just 1.5mm wide, and can be drilled using a to all mould designs, with every effort made to avoid
simple pillar or hand drill. These small holes will not undercuts at every turn.
be visible on the final vacuum formed product.
If undercuts are an unavoidable element of mould
Knowing where to apply them is easy. Any place on design, then there are some methods which may
a mould where there is a recess or notable groove assist you in a successful form and mould release.
will need a venting hole or two. This will create an air
channel which when the vacuum pump is applied, • Use putty or clay to fill in the spaces within the
will attract the heated plastic into that specific area undercut during the forming process
of the mould. Think of any part of a mould where • Complete the vacuum forming process with flexible
plastic will need to be formed within it rather than material, like Polyethylene foam
over it. These are the key spots where venting holes • Us a tool which is made up of multiple intersecting
will be essential. pieces, which once vacuum formed can be
dismantled and removed

17
Male and Female Moulds

Male and female moulds are the two categories that moulds fall into, sometimes referred to as ‘positive and
negative’ moulds. Put very simply, the difference between the two is whether heated plastic material will be
formed over or within the mould. This simple illustration clearly demonstrates what this means.

The female mould illustration also demonstrates nicely a time when venting holes would be an absolutely
essential part of mould design, in that it relies on heated plastic material being attracted into the six deep
recesses. Each individual recess would likely need several venting holes applied at their base, all the way
around their outer edge.

18
Common Problems (and their Simple Solutions)

Webbing

Webbing is used to describe any unwanted folds of plastic that gather around or in between the mould or
moulds being vacuum formed. These are most likely as a result of heated plastic material being distributed
inappropriately when the mould is raised to make contact with it. When the vacuum pump is applied, the
plastic material is pulled down unevenly, rather than forming perfectly over the mould. Some plastic material
adheres to itself and creates these unwanted folds around the edges of the formed piece. There are four main
causes for this;

• The mould is too tall

• The mould does not have enough draft angles applied
• There is too much heated plastic material for a small mould
• Multiple moulds are too close together

The easy fixes for this are self-explanatory, as all you

need to do look at the four causes, and see which
one applies to your mould and the forming process.

> Use a smaller sheet size so that the mould/tool

stretches the material more
> Place angled blocks around the corners to use up
the excess material
> Add draft angles and soften corners to allow the
material to flow over the mould
> Try using a female mould instead of a male mould

19
Thinning Difficult Mould Release

When heated plastic material is overly stretched Sometimes the mould may become difficult to
during the forming process, it causes the material to remove from the formed plastic sheet, which can
become thin and weak in certain places. Solutions to be very frustrating. Here are some of the possible
this are again, very straight forward. reasons why your mould and your plastic may not
want to part company.
• Increase draft angles around the sides of the mould
• Decrease the height of the mould • The mould has become too hot after more one
• Use thicker material vacuum forming cycle
• Modify the design in certain areas • The plastic was allowed to cool a little too long
over the mould before being removed
• There is an undercut somewhere on the mould
• The reverse pump was not used at the end of the
forming cycle

*this graphic displays a sharp cornered rendering

with zero draft angles and sharp corners which is
difficult to form and also very difficult to release.

Lack of Definition

This is when the formed plastic piece doesn’t look

quite as impressive as it should do, and without as
much detail as the mould should create. It could be
caused by any of the following reasons.

• There are not enough venting holes in the mould

• The plastic material was not heated enough
• The seal between the plastic and the aperture
window is not airtight and you are losing vacuum –
check the vacuum gauge

20
Finishing and Trimming

Once you have done all of the hard work, made your Vertical band saw
mould and vacuum formed it perfectly, you are going
to want to trim off the excess material, leaving you Trimming using a band saw is quick and easy,
with just the vacuum formed piece you require. To although getting very close to the desired cutting
do so there are a few different techniques that can line can be difficult if the line is not a straight edge.
be used in the classroom or in a small workshop. It Curved edges rely greatly on the skill of the operator,
is up to you to choose the one that best suits the and so a little practice may be necessary. This method
piece that you are trimming. Whatever method can produce a rough edge, but this can be neatened
you choose, be sure to approach the process with up with a small amount of scraping and some light
great care, and only use equipment with the correct sanding. If you choose a different trimming method,
training and supervision. the band saw can still come in handy to trim off the
majority of excess plastic material, before trimming
By hand - scissors, tinsnips, or sharp blade neatly by hand for example.

This is a method which will work very well with many

items, especially those with straight edges. By placing
the vacuum formed plastic flat on a work bench, and
placing one hand directly on top of it, the mould
can be gently pushed down to prevent it moving
around. With the other hand, take a strong sharp
blade such as a Stanley knife, and run it along the
desired cutting line. It will not cut directly through
the material, but after one or two passes it will make
the material weak enough that it can be bent along
the cutting line and the material will separate nicely.
Always break the plastic away from the knife line you
have just cut to give you a cleaner break. This works
well with HIPS and ABS. The edges may be a little
rough, but these can be scraped to remove excess,
and sanded with sandpaper to a smooth finish.

For very thin plastic material (less than 1mm thick)

a strong pair of scissors might be used to trim off
excess material. Again, a light sanding will remove
any rough edges created.

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Rotary slitting saw

A rotary slitting saw can be fitted into a pillar drill,

and the table adjusted to a height where the blade
is almost touching it. The vacuum formed part can
now be placed flat on the table and moved around
so that the rotating blade cuts around the desired
line separating the desired piece from the excess
material. It is advisable to roughly trim away most
of the excess before using this method.

If using this method, please proceed with caution, as

the rotary slitting saw is a very effective cutting tool
and will certainly cause harm if a hand comes into
contact with it. With this in mind, consider turning
the slitting saw over on the spindle end so that the
rotary slitting saw rotates with the teeth in reverse.
This means that the saw will grind plastic material
away rather than cut it, and in the event that the saw
is mistakenly touched it will not cause serious harm.

Table mounted router (15000 – 25000 RPM)

Not dissimilar to the rotary slitting saw method, a

table mounted router also involves a rotating slitting
saw, only this one is mounted below the table. A
vacuum formed plastic part can be placed over the
rotating cutting tool. The formed plastic can be
moved around, allowing the cutting tool to trim away
excess material from the inside.

Table mounted trimmer (FT10 and FT20 trimmers

–1250 RPM approx)

A rotary slitting saw can be used on a table mounted

router, although a small sanding disc might also be
suitable. This will grind the plastic material rather
than cut it and reduce any risk of harm during the
trimming process.

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Final Thoughts

This brings us to the end of our guide for vacuum forming in the classroom, but certainly not to the end of
your learning about the vacuum forming process. These are the very basics to get you started creating some
incredible vacuum formed products, drawing upon all of your existing skills in the workshop and applying them
to the process. The vacuum forming process will never just be about heating and shaping plastic, rather it is
going to draw upon all of your skills as a designer, your problem solving skills, material selection choices,
tooling methods selections, and most importantly, your imagination.

This is a technology which can truly change the way you see the world as a designer or artist, and open up
new and interesting doors for you as you complete any project you take on.

Be creative. Be innovative. And most importantly, have fun.

For a whole host of complete vacuum forming projects for your class, visit http://formech.com/inspire/. These
are step by step projects which will guide your class through every aspect of a number of projects with vacuum
forming at their hearts, from mould making, to tooling, and beyond.

Want to share pictures or videos of your Formech project across social media? Use #formechmade.

For any additional materials you and your class need, look no further, as you can find an online catalogue of
everything you need for vacuum forming in the classroom right here, at https://formechdirect.com/.

Follow us on Instagram for regular short videos and photographs from engineers and designers from around
the world on @Formech.

Formech have a content rich website which is bursting with both video and written materials. We always have
new How To and Case Study videos in the making, which showcase vacuum forming being used in the most
incredible of ways, so be sure to check them out at http://formech.com/case-studies/.

23
Plastic Materials and Their Characteristics

Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene – (ABS)

Formability Good - Forms to a High Definition

Strength Good - High Impact
Shrinkage Rates 0.3 - 0.8%
Finishing / Machining Machines well with Circular Saws, Routers and Band
Saws

Takes all Spray Paints

Clear Not Available
Colours All Colours and also available in a Flocked Finish ideal
for Presentation Trays and Inserts
Applications Luggage, Caravan Parts, Vehicular Parts, Sanitary Parts,
Electrical Enclosures
Price Medium

Polystyrene – High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS)

Formability Very Good - Forms to a High Definition

Strength Medium to Good Impact Strength
Shrinkage Rates 0.3 - 0.5%
Finishing / Machining Needs Special Etch Primer before spraying

Good
Machining with all methods
Clear Yes - Styrolux (Clarity not to quality of PETG/ PC/
PMMA)
Colours All Colours and also available in a Flocked Finish ideal
for Presentation Trays and Inserts
Applications Low Cost and Disposable Items, Toys and Models,
Packaging and Presentation, Displays
Price Low - Medium

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Polycarbonate – (P.C. / LEXAN/ MAKROLON)

Formability Good
Strength Very Good Impact Strength
Shrinkage Rates 0.6-0.8%
Finishing / Machining Good for Screen and Digital Printing

Good Machine Qualities

Can be Ultrasonically Welded, Drilled and Tapped

Takes Spray-Paint easily

Clear Yes
Colours Translucent and Solid colours.

Opal and Diffuser patterns.

Available in a variety of Embossed textures

Applications Light Diffusers, Signs, Machine Guards, Aircraft Trim,
Skylights, Riot Shields, Guards and Visors
Price High

Polyethylene – (PE, HDPE, LDPE, PE FOAM)

Formability PE – Difficult
PE Foam – Good, but Form at Lower Temperatures to
prevent Surface Scorching
Strength Very Good Impact Strength
Shrinkage Rates LDPE - 1.6 - 3.0% HDPE - 3.0 - 3.5%
Finishing / Machining Does not take Spray

Takes some Specialist Inks

Clear Translucent - goes Clear when in its Plastic State -
occurs within Temperature Band of approx. 10°C and
provides excellent Indicator to Forming Temperature
Colours Black, White and Colours available
Applications Caravan Parts, Vehicular Parts, Enclosures and
Housings
Price Low

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Co-Polyester – (PETG / VIVAK)

Formability Very Good - Forms to a High Definition

Forming range 80 -120°C / 176-248°F

Strength Good

High Impact
Finishing / Machining Can be Guillotined, Saw Cut or Routered

Die Cutting and Punching also possible up to 3mm

Paints and Inks for Polyester can be used for Printing

on PETG
Clear Yes
Colours Limited
Applications Point of Sale and Displays, Medical Applications
Price High (Competitive with other Clear Materials e.g.
PMMA, PC)

Acrylic - PMMA – (Perspex, Oroglas,

Plexiglas)
Formability Tends to be Brittle and is Temperature Sensitive
Strength Medium to High
Shrinkage Rates 0.3 - 0.8%
Finishing / Machining Prone to Shatter

Takes Cellulose and Enamel Spray. Good for Hand

Working
Clear Yes
Colours Solid Colours
Applications Signs, Roof Lights and Domes, Baths and Sanitary
Ware, Light Diffusers
Price High

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Polypropylene – (PP)

Formability Difficult - Translucent material goes Clear when in

its Plastic State - occurs within Temperature Band of
approx. 10°C / 50°F and provides excellent Indicator
to Forming Temperature. Good Temperature Control
required in conjunction with a Sheet Level Facility
Strength Very Good Impact Strength
Shrinkage Rates 1.5 - 2.2%
Finishing / Machining Doesn’t take Spray
Clear Translucent
Colours Black, White and Colours available
Applications Luggage, Food Containers, Toys, Enclosures, Medical
Applications, Chemical Tanks
Price Low

Polyvinylchloride – (PVC)

Formability Forms well but it has a tendency to Web

Strength Good
Finishing / Machining Doesn’t take Spray

Take some Specialist Inks

Clear Yes - Different Web Widths available with Thickness
from 150 Microns - 750 Microns
Colours Black, White and Colours available
Applications Packaging, Machine Guards and Car Trims
Price Low

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Plastics and Approximate Heating Times

Plastic Thickness Approx. Heating Time

(seconds)
ABS 1mm / 0.04” 40
1.5mm / 0.06” 60
2mm / 0.08” 80
3mm / 0.12” 120
4mm / 0.14” 140
HIPS 1mm / 0.04” 30
1.5mm / 0.06” 45
2mm / 0.08” 60
3mm / 0.12” 90
4mm / 0.14” 120
PC 1mm / 0.04” 60
1.5mm / 0.06” 90
2mm / 0.08” 120
3mm / 0.12” 180
4mm / 0.14” 240
PE 1mm / 0.04” 50
1.5mm / 0.06” 75
2mm / 0.08” 100
3mm / 0.12” 150
4mm / 0.14” 200
PETG 1mm / 0.04” 30
1.5mm / 0.06” 45
2mm / 0.08” 60
3mm / 0.12” 90
4mm / 0.14” 120
PMMA 1mm / 0.04” 40
1.5mm / 0.06” 60
2mm / 0.08” 80
3mm / 0.12” 120
4mm / 0.14” 160
PP 1mm / 0.04” 50
1.5mm / 0.06” 75
2mm / 0.08” 100
3mm / 0.12” 150
4mm / 0.14” 200

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Plastic Thickness Approx. Heating Time
(seconds)
PS 1mm / 0.04” 30
1.5mm / 0.06” 45
2mm / 0.08” 60
3mm / 0.12” 90
4mm / 0.14” 120
PVC 1mm / 0.04” 30
1.5mm / 0.06” 45
2mm / 0.08” 60
3mm / 0.12” 90
4mm / 0.14” 120

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