Tomatoes
H O M E - G R O W N O R G A N I C T O M A T O E S
Growing Guide
by
Maureen Madiseng
Did you know.....?
Surely tomatoes are one of the favourite and most valued and versatile
fruits eaten almost daily by most cultures throughout the world?
We have over 15000 known
varieties, and at least 3000
heirloom or heritage varieties are
still in active cultivation
worldwide. Tomato plants are of
the night shade family
(Solanacea), which includes
chillies, tobacco, potatoes,
eggplants and peppers. These
are classified as fruits rather
than the general perception that
they are vegetables.
There are two types of tomatoes which describe the length of time over which
the plants bear their fruits.
Indeterminate Tomatoes:
Have a winning habit, as they
can grow up to 6 metres unless
they are pinched back. They
will keep on producing for
about 8 months until they are
killed by frost or diseases.
These are often grown in
green-houses under controlled
conditions and intensive
farming systems for their
commercial productivity.
Determinate Tomatoes:
Are bushy, and can grow to just above a metre tall. They tend to ripen early,
and produce all of their fruit at the same time, and then die back after the
harvest.
The benefits of home-grown Organic tomatoes
Home grown tomatoes have a nutritional advantage as compared to
conventional store-bought ones. They contain more Vitamin C and more
plant phenols, a class of compounds that act as antioxidants.
They are much more flavourful, and the taste is better because they have
higher level of sugars.
When growing your own you get to harvest and eat when they are at the
peak of ripening (sun ripened on the bush).
They have a higher level of lycopene.
You can plant more interesting varieties for flavour texture and purpose.
How to grow organic tomatoes
Tomatoes require at least 5 hours of sun daily and very fertile well-drained soil.
Growing from Seed
Seedlings can be grown at home from fresh
purchased seeds or seeds saved from previous
heirloom crops, or purchased from the garden
centre or nursery.
Seedling Germination media recipe mix:
2L-sieved compost
2L- cocopeat
1L- vermicast (Fertilis Earthworm Casting)
5ml- organic fertilizer (Vita-Grow 2:3:2)
Tips for selection of nursery bought seedlings
Choose healthy seedlings, stay
away from big plants in small pots
and long and leggy plants as they
are probably old and root bound
which results in stressed plants
which might be unproductive.
Soil preparation
Soil structure - has a major effect on plants resistance to stress and
diseases and the ability to grow with vigor.
Sandy soil structure
These soils drain water and nutrient quickly, which will lead to plant stress.
Symptoms: Wilting and plants drooping. Leaf deficiencies from light green to yellow. It will
encourage powdery mildew, red spider mite, aphids, scales, mealy and australian bugs, and
ant activity.
Tight clay structure
Poor root development and root penetration into soil.
Symptoms: Root rot causing plants to collapse and die. Cracking tomato fruits from water
logging in soils where drainage is inadequate.
Soil Conditioning
Soils should be conditioned before planting.
Adjust pH by adding Aglime (dolomitic lime) to acid soils (low pH) and
Elemental Sulphur (very little at a time – 2 to 5ml per m2) or acid compost
to correct very alkaline soils (high pH).
Mix in lots of quality compost and earthworm castings to improve soil
structures, friability, water logging and aeration to ensure strong growing
plants to prevent disease and pest attack.
Transplanting tomato seedlings
When transplanting seedlings into the
ground mix:
4L-sieved compost
1L- vermicast (Fertilis Earthworm
Castings)
6ml- organic fertilizer (Vita-Grow 2:3:2)
1L-leaf mould (well decomposed)
.
Timing is the most important consideration, do not transplant seedlings in
severe weather or when too hot or too cold. Transplanting should be done in
the morning.
Water the seedlings while still in tray about 30 min before transplanting then
gently remove seedling from seedling tray with roots intact in surrounding
germinating medium to place in planting hole conditioned with Transplanting
Mix recipe for tomato seedlings.
Seedlings do better if planted a little deeper than when they were in trays, put
them in the ground so the level of the soil just covers the bottom leaves. This
will encourage a strong root growth and stem resulting in a healthy, strong
plant.
The seedlings should be planted 30-35cm apart
for bush (determinate) varieties, and 60cm to 1m
apart (depending on variety and growth habit) for
indeterminate tomatoes. See seed packet for
spacing at planting.
6 weeks after planting
To condition leaves and encourage more flower buds and
tomato fruits, fertilize with organic Vita Fruit & Flower 3:1:5
after 6 weeks (5ml per plant).
Tomatoes need a support system
Depending on the determinate/indeterminate variety, trellis the tomato
appropriately. Put the support in place prior to planting to avoid damaging
the plant and root system by only doing this at a later stage
Ideas for trellising your tomatoes
Mulching
Cover soil surface with a layer of mulch for moisture retention and to
suppress weeds.
Mulching of tomatoes must be done just after planting, spread the mulch
evenly around the stem so that the water can reach the roots easily.
Mulch must be kept away from the stem to prevent root collar rot on stem.
Ideas for mulch - shredded leaves, straw, grass clippings and even
newspaper.
Watering your tomatoes
Too much or too little watering can cause problems such as blossom end rot
or cracking of your tomato fruits, and root rot and stem diseases.
Tomatoes should be watered often during dry weather conditions, especially
when setting flowers. Tomatoes prefer their roots being watered rather than
over-head sprays which can result in leaf disease.
Companion planting for Tomatoes
Grouping and interplanting with tomato friendly plants will enhance growth,
flavour and protects your plants from pests. Your tomatoes will benefit
greatly from growing alongside the following:
Marigolds - which will help to repel harmful insects.
Lettuce - acts as a living mulch by shading soil for the tomatoes, however
they must be planted 12cm apart.
Borage - protects the tomatoes from hornworms.
You can also interplant with amaranth, asparagus, basil, chives, garlic,
onions, beans, carrots, celery, cucumbers, fenugreek, mint, nasturtiums,
parsley and peppers.
Avoid planting with members of the cabbage family or near potatoes.
Pruning your Tomatoes
When your seedlings have grown their 5th or 6th branches, break off any
below with your thumbnail as this prevents soil from splashing onto the
plant, which reduces diseases and increases airflow.
Indeterminate tomatoes benefit from additional pruning as it limits the growth
of the plant but encourages fruit formation.
Pruning, combined with good trellising produces the maximum amount of
fruit from a small space.
Also prune off "suckers" before they grow
as they drain the plant's fruiting as they
take food and nutrients into these new
stems. It’s also a good idea to prune your
plant while it’s dry, so never prune your
plant after you’ve watered it. If you prune
while the plant is wet, it can easily get a
cut and the infection may spread rapidly,
as the plant is damp and will welcome
infection more easily.
Harvesting
9 to 11 weeks after sowing, you should have luscious tomatoes to enjoy.
Harvest larger tomatoes using secateurs to avoid stem damage in the
process.
When handpicking tomatoes, carefully grasp your ripe tomato and gently
twist it away from the stem. Don’t squeeze too hard, or you’ll damage the
fruit. Most ripe tomatoes will easily free themselves from their vine with a
gentle twist. Try to snap the stalk just above the flower-shaped leaf on top.
Check your plants every couple of days for ripe tomatoes to harvest ripe
fruits.
Indeterminate varieties keep producing the more you harvest, until the plants
die after frost damage.
On determinate varieties, the plants all ripen within a 2-3 week period.
Saving your seeds
Let your fruit become almost over-ripe before harvesting. Fermenting the
seeds removes the gel layer around the seed, which can impact on seed
viability if unremoved.
Here is a link to a blog on how to harvest heirloom tomato
seed: https://inhabitat.com/diy-how-to-save-heirloom-tomato-seeds-for-
annual-growing/. or you can learn how to ferment your seeds from Jane's
Delicious A-Z of Vegetables on page 62 (by Jane Griffiths).
Store your seeds by keeping them dry and at low even temperatures.
Airtight glass containers are a good bet and remember to label them and
date them. Storing them in a freezer after they are thoroughly dried,
packaged and labelled is a good way to store them.
Happy Tomato Growing and Eating!
