CONSUMER CHEMISTRY

History of Cosmetics

Cosmetics in the Ancient World application of fake eyebrows, often made of oxen
hair, is also fashionable.
10,000 BCE:
1500 BCE:
Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene
and health. Men and women in Egypt use scented Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice
oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin and powder to make their faces white. Eyebrows are
mask body odor. Oils and creams are used for shaved off, teeth are painted gold or black, and
protection against the hot Egyptian sun and dry henna dyes are applied to stain hair and faces.
winds. Myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile,
1000 BCE:
lavender, lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose,
aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and almond oil provide Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead

the basic ingredients of most perfumes Egyptians face powder and fashion crude lipstick out of ochre

use in religious rituals. clays laced with red iron.

4000 BCE: Cosmetics in the Early Common Era (CE)

Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of 100

copper and lead ore) and malachite (bright green In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their
paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and pimples and sheep fat and blood on their fingernails
definition. They use kohl (a combination of burnt for polish. In addition, mud baths come into vogue,
almonds, oxidized copper, different colored coppers and some Roman men dye their hair blonde.
ores, lead, ash, and ochre) to adorn the eyes in an
300-400
almond shape. Women carry cosmetics to parties in
makeup boxes and keep them under their chairs. Henna is used in India both as a hair dye and in
mehndi, an art form in which complex designs are
3000 BCE:
painted on the hands and feet using a paste made
The Chinese stain their fingernails with gum arabic, from the henna plant, especially before a Hindu
gelatin, beeswax, and egg. The colors are used as a wedding. Henna is also used in some North African
representation of social class: Chou dynasty royals cultures.
wear gold and silver, with subsequent royals
Cosmetics in the Middle Ages
wearing black or red. Lower classes are forbidden to
wear bright colors on their nails. 1200
Grecian women paint their faces with white lead
and apply crushed mulberries as rouge. The
Perfumes are first imported to Europe from the
Middle East as a result of the Crusades.
19th and Early 20th Century Global Cosmetics
1300 Developments

In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into 1800

fashion. Society women wear egg whites over their
Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder,
faces to create the appearance of a paler
replacing the previously used deadly mixtures of
complexion. Some people believe, however, that
lead and copper. One such mixture, Ceruse, which is
cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore
made from white lead, is later discovered to be toxic
pose a health threat.
and blamed for health problems including facial
Renaissance Cosmetics tremors, muscle paralysis, and even death.
Queen Victoria publicly declares makeup improper.
1400-1500
It is viewed as vulgar and acceptable only for use by
Italy and France emerge as the main centers of actors.
cosmetics manufacturing in Europe, and only the
1900
aristocracy has access. Arsenic is sometimes used in
face powder instead of lead. The modern notion of In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-
complex scent-making evolves in France. Early aged women to appear youthful while acting as
fragrances are amalgams of naturally occurring hostesses. As a result, cosmetics use increases, but
ingredients. Later, chemical processes for is not yet completely popularized.
combining and testing scents surpass their arduous Beauty salons rise in popularity, though patronage
and labor-intensive predecessors. of such salons is not widely accepted. Because
many women do not wish to publicly admit they
1500-1600
have assistance achieving their youthful
European women often attempt to lighten their skin appearances, they often enter salons through the
using a variety of products, including white lead back door.
paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England is one well-
Important Cosmetics Industry Developments in
known user of white lead, with which she creates a
the United States
look known as “the Mask of Youth.” Blonde hair
rises in popularity as it is considered angelic. From its earliest days, the United States has been at
Mixtures of black sulfur, alum, and honey are the forefront of cosmetics innovation,
painted onto the hair and lighten with sun exposure. entrepreneurship, and regulation. The timeline
below represents a brief history of the important
developments and American usage trends, as well as
a regulatory history of cosmetics in the U.S.
Growth of the Industry American women begin to fashion their own form
of mascara by applying beads of wax to their
1886
eyelashes.
David McConnell founds the California Perfume
World War I & Aftermath
Company (CPC), then located in New York. Over
time, the company continues to grow and 1914
experiences great success, selling five million units
The onset of World War I leads to increased
in North America during World War I alone. In
employment among American women. This gain in
1928, CPC sells its first products – toothbrush,
disposable income, with more discretion over its
powdered cleanser, and a vanity set – under the
use, leads to a boom in domestic cosmetics sales.
name by which it is commonly known today: Avon.
The Avon line of cosmetics was introduced the next 1915

year, in 1929. Chemist T.L. Williams creates Maybelline Mascara

1894 for his sister, Mabel, the product’s inspiration.

The extremely competitive nature of the industry 1919

drives a group led by New York perfumer Henry Congress passes the 18th Amendment to the U.S.
Dalley to found the Manufacturing Perfumers’ Constitution, commonly known as Prohibition. As
Association. The group evolved over time and, after originally drafted, the Amendment might have
several name changes, is now known as the outlawed perfumes and toilet goods because of
Personal Care Products Council (PCPC). their alcohol content. The Manufacturing

1900 Perfumers’ Association (MPA), however, mobilized

its forces and persuaded Congress to clarify the
The number of U.S. firms manufacturing perfumery
language to exempt products unfit for use as
and toilet goods increases from 67 (in 1880) to 262.
beverages.
By 1900, cosmetics are in widespread use around
the world, including the United States. The Roaring 20s

1907 1920

Eugene Schueller, a young French chemist, invents The flapper look comes into fashion for the first

modern synthetic hair dye which he calls “Oréal.” time and, with it, increased cosmetics use: dark

In 1909, Schueller names his company Societe eyes, red lipstick, red nail polish, and the suntan,

Francaise de Teintures Inoffensives pour Cheveux which is first noted as a fashion statement by Coco

(Safe Hair Dye Company of France), which today Chanel.

has become L’Oréal. Cosmetics and fragrances are manufactured and

mass marketed in America for the first time.
1910
Max Factor, a Polish-American cosmetician and French Riviera in 1923. When she arrived home, her
former cosmetics expert for the Russian royal fans apparently liked the look and started to adopt
family, invents the word “makeup” and introduces darker skin tones themselves.
Society Makeup to the general public, enabling
1932
women to emulate the looks of their favorite movie
stars. In the midst of the Great Depression, brothers
Charles and Joseph Revson, along with chemist
1920-1930
Charles Lachman, found Revlon, after discovering a
The first liquid nail polish, several forms of modern unique manufacturing process for nail enamel, using
base, powdery blushes, and the powder compact are pigments instead of dyes. This innovation was
introduced. ultimately responsible for Revlon’s success; it
became a multimillion dollar corporation within just
1922
six years. Revlon also borrowed the concept of
The Manufacturing Perfumers’ Association (MPA) “planned obsolescence” from General Motors Corp.
changes its name to the American Manufacturers of to introduce seasonal color changes. Until World
Toilet Articles (AMTA). War II, women tended to use an entire lipstick or

1928 bottle of nail polish before purchasing a new one.

Max Factor, now living in Hollywood, unveils the 1934

very first lip-gloss. Drene, the first detergent-based shampoo, is

1929 introduced into the marketplace by Procter &

Gamble.
A pound of face powder was sold annually for every
woman in the U.S. and there were more than 1,500 1935
face creams on the market. The concept of color Max Factor develops and introduces pancake
harmony in makeup was introduced simultaneously, makeup to meet the unique requirements of
and major cosmetics companies began producing Technicolor film. When actresses started taking it
integrated lines of lipsticks, fingernail lacquers, and home for personal use, he realized his new
foundations. invention looked wonderful both on and off camera

The Great Depression and decided to introduce pancake makeup to the

general retail trade.
1930
1936
Due to the influence of movie stars, the Hollywood
“tan” look emerges and adds to the desire for tanned Eugene Schueller (founder of L’Oréal) invents the

skin, first made popular by fashion designer Coco first sunscreen. Despite its relative ineffectiveness,

Chanel, who accidentally got sunburnt visiting the this development leads to the invention of Glacier
Cream by Austrian scientist, Franz Greiter. The Modern Era of the cosmetics business begins as
Introduced in 1938, this product is cited as the first television advertising is first implemented in
commercially viable sun protection cream. In 1962, earnest.
Greiter introduced the concept for the Sun
1952
Protection Factor rating system (SPF), which has
since become the worldwide standard for measuring Mum, the first company to commercially market

the effectiveness of sunscreen. deodorant, launches the first roll-on deodorant

(under the brand name of Ban Roll-On), which is
1938
inspired by the design of another recently invented
Cosmetics were excluded from the Pure Food & product – the ballpoint pen.
Drug Act of 1906 because they were not considered
1955
a serious public health concern. However, an
incident linked to use of an eyeliner product forced Crest, the first toothpaste with fluoride clinically

Congress to pass the Federal Food, Drug, and proven to fight cavities, is introduced by Procter &

Cosmetic (FD&C) Act, which greatly expanded Gamble.

FDA’s authority to regulate cosmetics. 1960

World War II & Aftermath Congress passes the Color Additive Amendments, in

1940 response to an outbreak of illnesses in children

caused by an orange Halloween candy, which
Leg makeup is developed in response to a shortage
requires manufacturers to establish the safety of
of stockings during World War II.
color additives in foods, drugs, and cosmetics. The
The FDA is transferred from the Department of
Amendments included a provision called the
Agriculture to the Federal Security Agency and
“Delaney Clause’” that prohibited the use of color
Walter G. Campbell is appointed the first
additives shown to be a human or animal
Commissioner of Food and Drugs.
carcinogen.
1949 “Natural” products based on botanical ingredients,
such as carrot juice and watermelon extract, were
Companies such as Procter & Gamble (who made
first introduced. False eyelashes became popular.
products such as soap and laundry detergents) begin
to sponsor daytime television programs that will 1965
eventually be called “soap operas,” the first of
The first aerosol deodorant is introduced – Gillette’s
which was called These Are My Children.
Right Guard.
The Modern Era of Cosmetics
1966
1950
Congress enacts the Fair Packaging and Labeling The environmental movement brings challenges to
Act (FPLA), which requires all consumer products the cosmetics and fragrance industry. The use of
in interstate commerce to be honestly and some popular ingredients, including musk and
informatively labeled, with FDA enforcing ambergris, is banned following the enactment of
provisions on foods, drugs, cosmetics, and medical endangered species protection legislation.
devices.
1976
The 1970s
CTFA, with the support of the FDA and the
1970 Consumer Federation of America, establishes
the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert
The Toilet Goods Association (TGA) changes its
Panel. The goal of the CIR is to bring together
name to the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance
worldwide published and unpublished data on the
Association (CTFA).
safety of cosmetics ingredients, and for an
1971 independent expert panel to subsequently review

In response to a citizen petition filed by the CTFA, that data. The seven-member panel consists of

the FDA Office of Colors and Cosmetics established scientists and physicians from the fields of

the Voluntary Cosmetic Reporting Program (VCRP) dermatology, pharmacology, chemistry,

in 1971. The VCRP is an FDA post-market and toxicology selected by a steering committee and

reporting system for use by manufacturers, packers, publicly nominated by government agencies,

and distributors of cosmetic products that are in industry, and consumers. The panel thoroughly

commercial distribution in the United States; it reviews and assesses the safety of ingredients and

demonstrated the industry’s commitment to ultimately publishes the final results in the peer-

cosmetic safety and furthered the safety evaluation reviewed International Journal of Toxicology.

of cosmetic ingredients. Today, CIR has reviewed thousands of the most

commonly used cosmetics ingredients.
1973
The 1980s
CTFA establishes the International Cosmetic
Ingredient Nomenclature Committee (INC) – 1980

comprised of dedicated scientists from industry, The 80’s saw a dramatic change from previous
academia, regulatory authorities and sister trade decades where women typically wore makeup that
associations – to develop and assign uniform names was natural and light. Instead, the new order of the
for cosmetic ingredients. “INCI” names are day was to experiment with heavy layers of bold,
uniform, systematic names internationally bright colors. Gone was the golden glow of the 70’s,
recognized to identify cosmetics ingredients that are replaced by foundation that was one or two shades
published biennially in the International Cosmetic lighter than women’s natural skin tone. Smokey
Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook.
eyes in bright colors such as fuchsia, electric blue, preferences. In June 1989, Avon became the first
orange, and green were hugely popular. The 80’s major cosmetics company in the world to announce
was all about taking your look to the extreme, a permanent end to animal testing of its products,
championed by superstars such as Madonna and including testing done in outside laboratories. Other
Cyndi Lauper. companies subsequently follow suit throughout the
Concerns about contaminated makeup emerged late next decade and efforts intensify to develop and
in the decade. An FDA report in 1989 found that gain governmental approvals for alternative
more than five percent of cosmetics samples methods to substantiate product safety.
collected from department store counters were
1999
contaminated with mold, fungi, and pathogenic
organisms. The first ever Cosmetics Harmonization and
International Cooperation (CHIC) meeting is held in
1981
Brussels, Belgium. At the conference,
PCPC donates $1 million to fund a national center representatives from the U.S. FDA; the Japanese
for the development of alternatives to animal testing Ministry of Health, Labour, and Welfare (MHLW);
– the Johns Hopkins School Center for Alternatives Health Canada; and Directorate General III of the
to Animal Testing (CAAT). Its mission is to promote European Union discuss broad cosmetics topics,
and support research in animal testing alternatives. including: basic safety substantiation, exchange of
To date, CAAT has funded to approximately 300 data and information, development of an
grants totaling more than $6 million. international alert system, and an international
memorandum of cooperation.
1989
The 2000s
Look Good Feel Better is founded by the Look
Good Feel Better Foundation (formerly the Personal 2000
Care Products Council Foundation) – a charitable
Consumers in the early 2000s are pressed for time.
organization established by CTFA to help hundreds
As the pace of work and home life became more
of thousands of women with cancer by improving
stressful and hectic, cosmetics and personal care
their self-esteem and confidence through lessons on
products that emphasized relaxation, but which
skin and nail care, cosmetics, and accessories to
could still be used quickly, constituted a strong
address the appearance-related side effects of
category within the industry. Among these products
treatment.
are aromatherapy scented body washes, as well as
The 1990s other liquid and gel soaps, which start to replace
traditional bar soaps.
1990

Animal testing for cosmetics continues to be a hot The industry experiences increased challenges
topic in the beauty industry, driven by consumer
including product safety concerns, calls for European Union, Japan, and the United States. This
scientific data to document product claims, group of regulatory authorities meets on an annual
increasing environmental concerns, and pressure basis to discuss common issues on cosmetics safety
from the growing animal rights movement. and regulation.
Congress began investigating possible revisions to
2009
the traditional “drug” and “cosmetic” definitions
established under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic The European Commission (EC) issues regulation

Act. governing product claims, protecting consumers

from misleading claims concerning efficacy and
2004
other characteristics of cosmetic products.
The European Union (EU) implements an animal
2010
testing ban on finished cosmetics products.
PCPC commissions a study to help quantify the
2006
important contributions the cosmetics industry
The CTFA develops the Consumer Commitment makes to the economy and society. The findings
Code, which highlights the voluntary, proactive, and illustrate the deep commitment of personal care
responsible approach to product safety supported by leaders to promote and advance environmental,
cosmetics companies. The Code is intended to social, and economic benefits to its consumers.
enhance confidence and transparency for consumers
2012
and government regulators.
PCPC begins working with FDA and Congressional
2007
staff on a multi-year process to develop a
The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association framework for cosmetics reform legislation that
(CTFA) changes its name to the Personal Care would strengthen FDA oversight and provide for
Products Council (PCPC). PCPC supports numerous national uniformity and preemption of disparate
legislative initiatives in the states of California, state cosmetic regulations.
Massachusetts and New York, and
2015
launches Cosmeticsinfo.org to assist consumers in
understanding the products they use as well as the Due to rising concerns about the potential

industry’s record of safety in the formulation of environmental impacts, the cosmetics industry

those products. supports the enactment of the Microbead-Free

Waters Act, which prohibits the manufacture and

The International Cooperation on Cosmetics sale of rinse-off cosmetics (including toothpaste)

Regulation (ICCR) is established, comprised of a that contain intentionally-added plastic microbeads.

voluntary, international group of cosmetics 2016

regulatory authorities from Brazil, Canada, the
PCPC successfully petitions FDA to issue draft Findings continue to be published in International
guidance for lead impurities in lip products and Journal of Toxicology.
externally applied cosmetics, providing critical Recognizing that sunscreens are considered “drugs”
regulatory certainty consistent with international and therefore banned in schools, PCPC successfully
policies. spearheads a coalition of more than 30 stakeholders
PCPC issues an updated Economic and Social in support of state legislation that allows students to
Contributions Report, documenting the vital role the have and apply sunscreen at school.
industry plays in every state.
2018

Faced with legislation in California to ban animal

testing that would have prevented U.S. companies
from access to certain international markets, PCPC
2017
builds an integrated, multi-faceted strategy to
CIR completes the scientific safety assessments of successfully modify and enact the California
5,278 ingredients since the program began. Cruelty-Free Cosmetics Act.

Cosmetics

Why are Chemicals Used in Cosmetics?

From preserving the product and adding fragrance, to making the product feel smooth and silky, there are many
uses for chemicals in personal care products.

Keeping Cosmetics Safe and Clean

Preservatives in cosmetics are used to help prevent contamination and the growth of harmful bacteria. Some
common preservatives include:

Preservatives

 Parabens are a group of preservative ingredients used in cosmetics, personal hygiene products, food
products, and pharmaceuticals. They are highly effective in preventing the growth of fungi, bacteria, and
yeast that can cause products to spoil, helping to extend shelf life. Parabens used in cosmetics are
identical to those found in nature1 and have been used for almost 100 years as preservatives in the food,
drug, and personal care and cosmetics industries.

 Formaldehyde may be best known for its preservative and anti-bacterial properties. All life forms–
bacteria, plants, fish, animals and humans–naturally produce formaldehyde as part of cell metabolism.
Formaldehyde-based chemistry is essential in the production of many personal care 2 and consumer
 items. While not added directly to the product, many products may contain formaldehyde-releasing
ingredients, which act as a preservative to help kill microorganisms and prevent growth of bacteria and
other pathogens, extending product shelf life.

Enhancing Your Scent

Fragrances

Fragrances are complex combinations of natural or synthetic substances added to many consumer products to
give them a distinct scent. One of the oldest cosmetics, fragrance products combine fragrance ingredients with
an individual’s natural properties to enhance the body’s scent. Cosmetics like shampoos, shower gels, shaving
creams and body lotions contain fragrance intended to improve the user’s experience.

Aldehydes

Aldehydes are fragrant chemical compounds derived from organic materials, including rose, citronella, vanilla,
and orange rind. Scientists also can create these compounds synthetically to use as ingredients for sweet-
smelling perfumes and colognes.

Enhancing Product Pigment or Color

Titanium Dioxide

Titanium dioxide is a metal commonly found in plants and animals. Titanium dioxide has been used for a
century in a range of industrial and consumer products like cosmetics, toothpaste, soap, and sunscreen.

Making Your Skin Feel Softer, Smoother, and Brighter

Emollients

Emollients3 are used to make cosmetics smooth and easy to apply and make the skin feel softer and smoother.
They are often used to treat dry, itchy skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. By filling in the gaps
between skin cells, emollients are also called barrier creams because they form a film on the skin’s outer layer to
retain moisture and help prevent the skin from drying out. Emollients are found in creams, lotions, ointments,
and sprays. Some common emollients include:

 Mineral oil is a clear, odorless liquid and a common ingredient in a variety of cosmetics and personal
care products. Mineral oil is a lightweight ingredient used in baby lotions, cold creams, ointments and
many other cosmetic and personal care products, due to its ability to help reduce water loss from skin
and keep it moisturized.
  Petroleum jelly4 is a thick, colorless or pale-yellow semisolid found in personal care and cosmetics
products, including bath products, cleansing products, skin care products, makeup, shampoos,
conditioners, and shaving products.

 Glycerin, or glycerol, is a sugar alcohol with a variety of applications in pharmaceuticals, personal care
products, and food products. It is added to personal care products to help protect the skin from irritants
and bring moisture to the surface of skin and hair.

Citric Acid

Citric acid is used in cosmetics and personal care products to help brighten skin, correct dark spots and
minimize fine lines. It can also be used to as preservative and to help adjust the products’ pH levels.

Protecting Your Skin from the Sun

Sunscreens are used to help protect the skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Common sunscreen
ingredients include:

 Benzophenone is used in skincare products like soap and lip balm to help prevent the other product
ingredients from degrading under UV light – protecting the product’s color and scent.

 Oxybenzone is a derivative of benzophenone, and is an ingredient in many sunscreens due to its ability
to absorb harmful UV rays.

 Zinc oxide is a white, powdery mineral that can help block harmful UV rays from the skin and prevent
sunburn.

Cleansing, Lathering, and Dissolving Other Substances

Surfactants

Surfactants make it possible for soap to mix with water by lowering the water surface tension. Surfactants also
are used as an ingredient in lubricants, such as shaving cream, where they allow razors to easily remove stubble
and help limit irritation.

 Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), a cleaning agent and surfactant, is an ingredient in many personal care and
cleaning products. SLS can be derived from natural sources like coconut oil and palm kernel oil and can
also be manufactured in a laboratory setting.

Toluene

Toluene, also known as methylbenzene, is a clear, colorless liquid with a distinctive sweet smell that is
widely used in industrial settings as a solvent. Toluene has been used as an ingredient in nail polish removers,
due to its ability to help dissolve other substances, such as resins and plasticizers. It has also been used in the

formulation of nail products to enable nail polishes, hardeners and lacquers to be applied smoothly.

Acetone

Acetone is widely used because it can easily mix with water, and evaporates quickly in the air. It is a
primary ingredient in many nail polish removers as it helps break down nail polish, making it easy to remove
with a cotton swab or cloth.

Surfacants

Surfactants are a primary component of cleaning detergents. As the name suggests, surfactants evoke
activity on the surface you are cleaning, to help trap dirt and remove it from the surface. Your soaps, shampoos
and hair conditioners contain surfactants, as they help cleanse your scalp, skin, and hair. These compounds
create a pleasantly foamy reaction, when mixed with water. They are usually safe for all skin types. Beyond
soaps and detergents, surfactants are also used in lubricants, inks, anti-fogging liquids, herbicides, adhesives,
emulsifiers and fabric softeners.

How Are Surfactants Made?

Synthetic surfactants are mostly manufactured using starting materials (reactants used in chemical
reactions) such as petrochemicals. These further undergo chemical reactions such as sulfonation (addition of
sulphur) or ethoxylation (addition of ethylene oxide). Being synthetic in nature, they can be designed or mixed
with other chemicals to serve their desired purposes. However, there is also a range of biosurfactants that have
great advantages as an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic surfactants. These are chemicals produced by
microorganisms, but have clearly defined hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups. Biosurfactants occur in nature.
Fungi, bacteria, and yeast are known for producing biosurfactants. They can also be derived from plant-based
sources such as coconut and palm oil.

Different types of Surfacant

Nonionic Surfactants

As the name implies, nonionic surfactants do not yield any net charge in solution. Being mild in nature,
these are often the preferred ingredient in cosmetics that do not have foaming or lathering properties.

Nonionic surfactants can be combined effectively with other classes of surfactants. They are commonly
used in hand and body moisturisers. Stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol are some of the common nonionic
surfactants used in your skincare products.

Anionic Surfactants
 These are negatively charged surfactants, good at removing oil and dirt from your skin’s surface.
Anionic surfactants are the most commonly used variety as primary detergents in soaps, shampoos and
cosmetics having strong cleansing effects. However, they can also be harsh and irritating to your skin. Such
surfactants are often combined with amphoteric or nonionic secondary detergents to cut down on the harshness.
Some examples include, SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate), sodium stearate, alpha olefin sulfonate, etc.

Cationic Surfactants

Being positively charged, these surfactants are not effective as detergents and therefore not used in
cleansers. The human skin is mostly negatively charged. Thus cationic surfactants tend to attach strongly to it.
However, this property makes these surfactants effective carriers of therapeutic products for damaged skin and
hair. Cationic surfactants are also used in fabric conditioners. Quaternary ammonium salts are among the most
commonly used cationic surfactants.

Zwitterionic/Amphoteric Surfactants

These surfactants get their name due to the presence of both positive and negative charges in solution.
They can adjust the pH of the environment they are added to. Such surfactants can have a calming effect on
your skin. Amphoteric surfactants might be used as secondary surfactants in skincare products to reduce
irritation and increase foaming. Betaines, sulfobetaines, certain amino acids and phospholipids are few
commonly used amphoteric surfactants.

Common Surfactants Used In Cosmetics

 Role Of Surfactants In Skincare results in thickening of the products. These are
usually in the manufacture of thick winter body
Surfactants are one of the most extensively
lotions, conditioners for dry hair, mascaras, etc.
used ingredients in the cosmetics industry. The
varied chemical properties make them extremely 5. Wetting Or Dispersing Agents
beneficial in personal care products.
These surfactants reduce the intramolecular
Let us see some common applications of forces at the liquid interface. They also facilitate
surfactants in the cosmetic industry. spread and penetration of the products containing
them into the depths of skin and hair. Wetting or
1. Detergents or Cleansers
dispersion agents are most commonly used
Because of their amphiphilic nature, surfactants can surfactants in cosmetic products.
form micelles that trap oil, dirt or sebum. It loosens
6. Opacifiers
them from your skin surface, which can then be
easily washed away. They are added in products Some surfactants can render a formulation
such as soaps, shampoos and face washes. opaque by absorbing light, and making the surface
applied on, look brighter. These are commonly used
2. Emulsifiers
in makeup formulations.
Surfactants can be used as emulsifiers, which
7. Conditioners
stabilize the mixture of two immiscible or insoluble
liquids such as oil and water, for a prolonged period Cationic surfactants can form a resilient,
of time. Emulsifiers are commonly used in creams, protective coating on skin or hair surface.They are
lotions, conditioners, etc. commonly incorporated into makeup products, hair
conditioners, etc.
3. Foaming Agents
8. Preservatives
This group of surfactants reduce the surface tension
at the air-water interface. They also enhance lather Due to their bactericidal properties,
or bubble formation. A good application of these surfactants can be used as preservatives in
surfactants is in products like shaving creams, cosmetics to prolong their shelf life.
which helps soften the stubble for a smooth shave.
Alternative Surfactants For Your Skin And Hair
4. Thickeners
Be meticulous while making a choice of surfactants.
Certain surfactants can interact with other Not only do they form a large group of ingredients,
ingredients in a formulation, trapping them in a but are also used in combination with other
network of the primary surfactant molecules. This surfactants and various other ingredients. The
interaction between all the ingredients brings out the
final effect of the surfactants on your skin.
Interactions Between Surfactants And The Skin
Avoid using the harsh ones such as SLS or SLES
Surfactants present in a product may interact
(Sodium laureth ether sulfate). Harsh surfactants
with the skin primarily in two ways:
can strip your skin of its natural moisture and hasten
your skin’s aging process. Another group of 1. Interaction with SC

surfactants like PEG (polyethylene glycol), which Surfactants can interact with the stratum
penetrate deep into the skin, can act as carriers for corneum (SC), the outermost layer of your skin. The
potential carcinogens (cancer-causing). Natural surfactants form monomers or polymers, which can
surfactants, which are derived from plant sources, penetrate the skin barrier and moisturize deeply.
are relatively safer to use. They undergo a certain
However, prolonged usage of strong or harsh
degree of chemical processing in order for them to
surfactants can permanently alter the cell structure
be suitable for use in cosmetics. Some natural
of your skin surface. This can damage your skin’s
surfactants are potassium cocoate (derived from
barrier function and cause inflamed skin.
coconut oil), decyl glucoside (from corn and
coconuts), sucrose cocoate (from sugar beets), etc. 2. Altering the pH
Most of SkinKraft’s customized skin and hair care
Depending on the net charge upon
products are formulated with natural surfactants
dissolution, surfactants can affect the pH at your
derived from coconut or palm oil and corn glucose.
skin surface. [5] Products with high pH levels can
They clean your skin and hair gently without
make your skin dry and itchy, and cause acne
stripping off its essential oils.
breakouts.

Use formulations with an optimally balanced

pH. Temporary usage of mildly acidic cleansers can
help you reduce acne breakouts. If you have eczema
or dermatitis, slightly alkaline cleansers can help.