Pruning of Trees and

Shrubs on Guam

Thomas E. Marler, Michael V. Mickelbart

and Christine Bucayu-Laurent
 Contents Aftercare......................................................................................17
A. Wound Care
B. Sunburn
Introduction................................................................................... 1 C. Fertilization and Watering

What to Prune in a Tree................................................................ 3 Hygiene Issues..............................................................................18

Reasons to Prune........................................................................... 3 Special Situations........................................................................ 19

A. Reduce Plant Size A. Transplanting
B. Shape Plant B. Neglected Trees
C. Induce Branching C. Rejuvenation
D. Strengthen Tree D. Very Large Trees
E. Light Penetration and Air Circulation
F. Control of Disease and Insects Conclusion................................................................................... 22
G. Control Fruiting
H. Typhoon Preparation Summary..................................................................................... 22

When To Prune............................................................................. 8 Glossary...................................................................................... 23

A. After the Storm
B. When Flowers Fade

Tools for Pruning........................................................................ 10

A. Hand Pruners
B. Loppers
C. Pruning Saw
D. Pole Pruner About the Cover

T
Types of Pruning Cuts................................................................. 12 he picture shown is a large tree damaged by a typhoon. Most
A. Thinning of the terminal branches are dead and there are many broken
B. Heading Back limbs. All dead and broken branches can be pruned for the tree to
remain healthy.
Techniques of Pruning.................................................................14
A. Limb Removal Thomas E. Marler is a Horticulturist with the CNAS Western
B. Branch Angle Pacific Tropical Research Center, University of Guam. Michael V.
Mickelbart is a former Visiting Research Intern with Dr. Marler.
Christine Bucayu-Laurent is an Extension Associate.

Originally published in 1992. Updated May 2016.

 Introduction Micronesia has a tropical climate with very distinct wet and
dry seasons. Using Guam as an example to illustrate this, dry
Pruning techniques are the same regardless of whether the plant season “fanumnangan” is characterized by very bright, sunny
is a tree or shrub. The difference is in the structure and size of the days, which begin in December and last through June with a
plant. For this reason, this publication will use the word “tree” yearly average rainfall of 27 inches of rain. The rainy season
in most explanations. The guidelines given here are, however, “fanomnagan” is characterized by predominantly overcast
applicable to either trees or shrubs. conditions, which cover the remaining months with a yearly
average of 68" of rain (NOAA, 2015 Report). There are
This is a guide for the pruning of typical trees and shrubs, and advantages and disadvantages to pruning during both seasons,
does not intend to make recommendations on plants such as but they are all minimal. In a tropical region such as Micronesia,
palms, bamboos, or other grasses. These types of plants usually pruning can take place at any time during the year.
require only maintenance pruning and are not normally pruned
on a routine basis. One aspect that should dictate time of pruning is the flowering
and fruiting habits of various plants. Since the goal with
flowering or fruiting trees is to obtain a prolific bloom or large
crop, pruning should be performed to emphasize these processes.
Trees like mango and avocado flower at the end of the wet
season (approximately November-December) and fruit ripen
during the dry season. In this case, one would prune immediately
following harvest. The tree would then produce regrowth which
Primary Scaffold Branch
would help to supply the following season's crop. Pruning during
or immediately prior to flowering will interfere with the fruit
Canopy production of the plant. In the case of flowering plants, pruning
should commence immediately following the flowering period.
Waterspouts
Secondary Scaffold Branch

Suckers Trunk

Roots

Figure 1. Structure of a tree illustrated without leaves.

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 What to Prune on a Tree size in such a way that their health is not endangered. For further
discussion on large trees, see “Special Situations”.
A. Suckers that grow from the roots or base of the trunk
B. Limbs that sag or grow close to the ground B. Shape Plant
C. Branches that form an acute angle with the trunk Shaping of trees and shrubs can consist of anything from
D. Watersprouts that shoot up from main “scaffold” branches removing a stray branch to extreme examples such as espalier
E. Limbs that are dead, diseased, or broken (Fig. 3). Natural tree shape can be manipulated to make low-
F. Branches that grow parallel to and too close to another growing, spreading plants more upright or tall trees smaller and
G. Branches that cross or rub against others denser. Mature trees can be shaped to some extent; however, no
H. Limbs that compete with the tree's central leader more than one-third of the foliage should be removed at any one
time. In general, to avoid the removal of any large limbs, shaping
of a plant should start when it is still young.

Reasons to Prune  

A. Reduce Plant Size

An obvious reason for pruning established trees or shrubs is to
reduce the area which they cover. As trees grow, they often hit
walls, interfere with power lines, or become a hazard for falling
Figure 3. Espalier is one example of an extreme type of shaping
branches. In orchard situations, trees may become too large for a tree. Pruning procedures this extreme is best done when the
harvesting fruit and spraying. It is better to begin pruning plants plant is still young.
when they reach a desirable size and not when they are so large
that mature limbs must be removed, though sometimes this may C. Induce Branching
be necessary. Reduction of tree size can often be done, and is Pruning can control the amount and areas of branching. The
best done with few cuts (Fig. 2). Large trees can be reduced in terminal bud is the bud at the tip of a branch. Lateral buds are
located below the terminal bud, along the length of the branch.

Figure 4. Removal of the terminal bud results in the growth of

Figure 2. Size reduction of a tree is best done with few cuts. This
lateral buds. A pruning cut to remove the shaded portion of the
tree was effectively reduced in size with a few cuts which remove
shoot on the left will result in growth response as shown on the
the whole limbs that are shaded.
right.

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When the terminal bud is removed, the lateral buds are then
forced to grow (Fig. 4). This procedure can be used to create
a denser tree canopy by forcing more lateral branches, those
branches produced by lateral buds. The tree will have fewer
individual, long branches and more limbs with many lateral
branches.

Trees consist of a main trunk and scaffold branches, which make

up the framework of the tree. Primary scaffold branches are
the main branches coming off of the trunk. Secondary scaffold Figure 5. The plant on the left has been left to grow naturally and
branches emerge from the primary scaffold branches. Pruning has very little light penetration into the interior of the canopy. The
back both primary and secondary scaffold branches while plant on the right has been pruned for light penetration and has
foliage well distributed throughout the canopy.
they are young (1 to 2 years) helps to strengthen the limbs and
encourages side branching. Watersprouts are rapidly growing unbranched shoots that do not
normally produce flowers or fruit until they are cut back (Fig.
D. Strengthen Tree 6). They should always be removed unless they are to be used
Pruning can also be used to strengthen trees to withstand strong for the purpose of shading exposed branches (see “Sunburn”).
winds or typhoons. If possible, the weakest branches in a canopy In grafted plants, watersprouts emerging from below the graft
should be removed when pruning. For more detailed information should always be removed. Rubbing watersprouts off while
on choosing strong branches, see the section on “Branch Angle”.

Normally, only one branch should be left at a single point on the

main trunk. When two or more branches emerge from the same
point, a weak spot develops on the trunk. Extra branches should
be removed when pruning.

E. Light Penetration and Air Circulation

Light is a very important factor in plant growth. For optimal
growth, sunlight should reach most of the leaf area on a plant.
As trees and shrubs become excessively large, the inner parts
of the canopy become more shaded. This creates a dense cover
of foliage on the outer portion of the canopy while the inside
becomes increasingly bare (Fig. 5). This problem is avoided by
pruning to open up the tree to sunlight, thus a healthy, densely
covered tree is produced. See “Thinning”.

Light penetration is aided by the removal of unnecessary Figure 6. Water sprouts are unbranched shoots which may be
branches such as dead limbs, crossing branches, or watersprouts. found in the canopy or, commonly, on the exposed areas of the
scaffold branches or trunk of a tree.

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they are just emerging is the easiest and most effective means of G. Control Fruiting
removal. Pruning mature fruit trees can help a plant produce a better crop
in a number of ways. When a portion of the fruiting wood is
Light interception is also important for fruit development. To removed, the fruit produced by the remaining wood is usually
efficiently produce a fruit crop, a maximum amount of the larger and of better quality.
canopy should intercept light. Pruning to open up the center of
the plant, which allows light to reach more leaf area, enhances When fruit trees are left to grow to a very large size they are
fruit development. Fruit in the shaded interior of the canopy producing a large amount of unnecessary wood and foliage. The
usually has poor color and quality compared with those in well- leaf portion of the plant which contributes to fruit growth is, for
lighted areas. the most part, located directly around the fruit. Pruning a fruit
tree to a suitable size therefore does not greatly sacrifice fruit
F. Control of Disease and Insects yield, but improves quality during harvest time.
If diseased branches are detected, they should be removed as
soon as possible. Small insect-infested branches may also be Larger trees tend to produce more fruit in the upper portions of
removed if they do not create too large of a hole in the canopy. the canopy. This adds to the work and frustration of harvesting.
Only those branches threatened by insects which penetrate into By reducing the size of a fruit tree, one can force the tree to
the wood need to be removed. Insects which are on the surface produce fruit at a more convenient height. Removing dead,
of the branch can usually be controlled with an application of crossing, or broken branches allows easier access into the
insecticide. Removal of disease or insect-infested branches is a canopy.
safe and effective way to control these pests in mature trees.

All cuts should be made into healthy wood. When pruning

diseased branches, the tools being used should be disinfected When to Prune
after each cut, especially when going from diseased to non-
diseased wood. A solution of one part bleach to four parts water Properly pruning a tree is crucial. Pruning can be done at any
is a safe and effective disinfecting agent. Once these branches time of the year on Guam, but sometimes circumstances may
are pruned from the tree, they should be removed from the area affect decisions of when to prune.
so that they will not become a source of reinfection of the plant.
A. Before and After the Storm
Pruning to open up the center of the tree also helps to control Typhoons cause a great deal of damage to plant material on
disease. This allows air movement through the canopy and Guam. Typhoons typically occur between June to November,
promotes rapid drying following rain, thereby helping to prevent but they can occur at any time of the year. Typhoons bring
disease. Branches which cross over each other should be strong winds, abundant rainfall, and flooding. Preparing trees
removed since moisture accumulation and mechanical abrasions and shrubs before a typhoon is desirable, and involves pruning
between them create a site for disease development. to allow for wind movement through the canopy. Size reduction
can reduce wind drag and lower the chances of uprooting of
some plants. Care should first be given to those plants which are
known to be easily damaged or uprooted in typhoons. Safety

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measures indicate that work should not occur during a typhoon The machete is a popular tool in the Micronesian area. Although
or in any wet, windy, or dark conditions. it is an appropriate tool for brush clearing, the machete should
never be used to make the final pruning cut on trees and shrubs.
After a typhoon, different levels of tree damage will be found
in the landscape. If tree damage is minimal, pruning may be Large pruning jobs which require chainsaws and large ladders
restricted to removal of broken branches and removal of rough should be attempted only by experienced tree trimmers. These
edges around wounds. This will aid in tree recovery. If a valuable jobs can be dangerous for the homeowner and removal of debris
tree is damaged, then greater after-care efforts may be needed. In can be an inconvenience. Most jobs require no more than the first
addition to removing broken branches and cleaning rough edges three tools described in Fig. 7.
around wounds, fertilization and irrigation may aid in recovery.
If a less valuable tree is damaged, it may not be worth saving. A. Hand Pruners
For example, some trees may be heavily diseased or exhibit For small branches or twigs, hand pruners provide clean cuts and
major splits in the trunk or large structural limbs. ease of movement. When pruning small shrubs or young plants,
with ¼" to ½" in diameter, hand pruners may be the only tool
B. When Flowers Fade required. Do not try to cut large branches (over 3/4" in diameter)
If the purpose of pruning is to enhance flowering or fruiting, the with hand pruners since this may result in jagged, uneven cuts.
timing of pruning becomes more important. Major pruning in Some pruners have the convenience of a replaceable blade which
these situations should be immediately after the major flowering makes sharpening unnecessary.
season for flowering trees, and after the major fruiting season for
fruit-bearing trees. B. Loppers
Loppers are useful for removing small branches up to 1 ½" in
diameter that are too large for hand pruners. There are many
styles of loppers available, each capable of cutting branches
Tools for Pruning
There are many useful tools for pruning, most of which are
available at hardware or home supply stores. It is advisable to
buy quality, durable tools since good tools will last a long time.
Larger pruning tools are not always better. Although larger tools
will usually cut through thick branches, they may also be too
bulky to maneuver within the canopy of a tree. Especially for
large jobs, using comfortable tools is important.

Blades should be kept dry, cleaned, oiled, and sharp. A sharp

blade is better than a dull one. This will not only make cutting
easier, but also prevent uneven or jagged cuts which can prolong
recovery of wounds. Tools should be rinsed and wiped dry
before being put away. Store tools in an enclosed area when they Figure 7. Hand pruner, pruning saw, and lopper. Many different
are not being used to prevent rusting. styles of these tools are available.

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of different sizes. Long handles will give more leverage with
loppers, but with time, they are more susceptible to breaking if
the handles are wood.

C. Pruning Saw
Pruning saws are necessary for branches more than 1 ½" in
diameter that are too large to be cut with loppers. Figure 7
shows one of many styles of saws available. To help the tree
recover quickly, always try to make straight cuts with the saw as
opposed to wavy, uneven cuts.
Figure 8. Thinning cuts remove branches back to a crotch.
D. Pole Pruners Pruning of the shaded limbs in the tree on the left would be
accomplished with proper pruning cuts. The tree illustrated in the
A pole pruner can be useful for branches more than 1" thick middle appears less dense immediately following these thinning
and beyond arm’s reach such that it is high in the canopy which cuts. A tree responds to thinning cuts with extension of the
are not easily reached from the ground. Pole pruners can be remaining branches, as shown by the shaded regrowth on the
purchased with either a lopper or saw attachment for various right. Future growth may include more foliage in the interior of
pruning jobs. the plant since more light is available.

Unless they are providing needed shade, watersprouts should be

removed as soon as they emerge.
Types of Pruning Cuts
B. Heading Back
A. Thinning Heading back cuts remove only portions of branches and
Thinning means to cut a branch back to the trunk or the main promote increased growth off foliage within a tree or shrub
scaffold branch from which it originates. The remaining branches which is normally done by the use of a hand pruner. By
are stimulated to grow longer. After thinning, trees appear more removing the terminal bud, the remaining lateral buds are
open and less dense (Fig. 8). encouraged to grow. Heading back cuts may remove different
portions of the branches, depending on the severity of the
Thinning is a type of pruning cut which is used to open up a pruning. Trees respond to heading back cuts with a denser
tree for better air circulation and light penetration. This type of growth habit (Fig. 9). Hedging of plants is an extreme example
cut can be used to strengthen the tree by removing the weakest of this type of cut.
branches in the canopy. Use appropriate tools when thinning
based on the thickness of the branch being cut. When making heading back cuts, it is important to always
cut back to a desired bud. Remember that the point at which
Since with thinning cuts the tree is opened up and exposed, it the cut is made will probably respond with growth of the first
may become susceptible to sunburn damage. Care should be remaining bud on that branch. The direction of that bud will
taken to leave shading branches and twigs, or the exposed branch determine the direction of the emerging branch. Therefore, it is
should be painted with whitewash (see "Sunburn"). Increased usually advisable to cut back to an outside bud so growth will be
exposure to sunlight also promotes the growth of watersprouts. directed away from the center of the plant rather than toward the

11 | Pruning of Trees and Shrubs Pruning of Trees and Shrubs | 12

 important structural branches. Before removing an entire branch,
be sure to note how it fits into the canopy. Removal of the wrong
branch can produce large holes in the canopy which, in turn, can
expose remaining branches to sunburn or create an unsightly
plant.

Figure 9. Heading back cuts remove only portions of branches,

such as those that are shaded on the left illustration. The tree
appears shorter immediately following pruning (middle). A tree
responds to heading back cuts with growth of numerous lateral
buds on the remaining branches, as illustrated by the shaded
regrowth on the right.

Figure 10. Direction of growth after pruning is determined by the Figure 11. The collar is the swollen area where the branch and
direction of the first remaining bud. The illustration on the left trunk meet.
shows plant shape prior to pruning. The plant in the middle has
been pruned back to inward-facing buds and the plant on the A. Limb Removal
right has been pruned to outward-facing buds. Future growth in Located at the base of large branches is what is known as the
both cases is illustrated by the shaded branches. collar (Fig. 11). The collar is a swollen area where the branch
meets the trunk or scaffold branch. It is more obvious in some
center of the plant (Fig. 10). This helps to prevent crossing-over plants than others. The collar contains natural chemicals which
branches and promotes an open center for better light penetration the plant uses to block off decay from the rest of the plant, and is
and air circulation. the plant's area of natural defense.

When removing a limb, the cut surface should be as close to the

Techniques of Pruning collar as possible without actually cutting into it (Fig. 12). A
plant will recover quickly if this practice is followed. If any or all
The most important step in pruning takes place before any cuts or the collar is removed, the wound will be left open to decay.
are made. The person pruning should step back and examine the
entire plant, making mental notes of which parts will be removed Removing branches with flush cuts is a common practice and
or modified. This should also be done periodically throughout the was once thought to be the optimal means of removing a limb.
pruning process, helping to eliminate mistakes such as removing This type of cut, however, only produces a very large wound and

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Figure 13. Proper removal Figure 14. Cross section

Figure 12. Proper cut for removing a limb (left). The cut is just of a large branch involves of two crotch angles. The
outside of the collar without any of the collar removed. An three cuts. Cut approximately branch on the left is at a
improper pruning cut that is flush with the trunk (middle) removes 8" from the trunk on the proper angle for a strong
the valuable collar and leaves a much larger wound. A pruning underside of the branch crotch. The branch on the
cut that is outside of the collar leaves a stub (right). This type of (A), followed by a cut right shows the interruption
cut is also improper and leaves the tree open to infection from approximately 10" from the of the conductive tissues
disease or insects. trunk on the top of the branch and bark inclusion from a
(B). This will cause the narrow crotch causing a weak
greatly harms the tree (Fig. 12). It is just as harmful to cut at a branch to break off, leaving branch.
distance from the collar, leaving a stub on the tree (Fig. 12). With a stub. The final cut outside
of the collar (C) removes the
this understanding, limb removal will result in the least amount stub.
of permanent injury to the plant.
very narrow branching angles. The branches which are left to
B. Branch Angle develop should be widened manually to force a stronger crotch
Trees must have a strong framework to survive heavy fruit loads, angle to develop. This can be done by wedging a piece of wood
strong winds or typhoons. By promoting strong branches when in the crotch to create a wider angle. Rope or any other means of
pruning, trees are modified to be more able to withstand such widening may also be used, as long as damage to the tree does
occurrences. The strongest branches are those with a crotch not occur.
angle of about 45°. The crotch refers to the area where a primary
scaffold branch and the trunk meet. The crotch angle is the angle
that the scaffold limb creates where joined with the trunk.
After Care
A. Wound Care
Wide angle branches create a continuous flow of the conductive
Generally, caring for wounds following pruning is not necessary,
tissues within the tree. Narrow angles pinch off this tissue while
regardless of the size of the wood. Previous recommendations
bark is trapped in the crotch, creating a weaker branch which
have included applying sealing paints and tars. These practices
is more susceptible to breakage as it grows (Fig. 14). A crotch
do not accelerate recovery, and may in fact inhibit it. Plants
angle that is around 90° or greater is also weak because of the
defend themselves from disease and insect invasion with
pressure exerted on it by the weight of the branch. When pruning
natural chemicals which act to seal off exposed areas. Applying
young trees, always try to leave those branches with strong
chemical sealants may only hinder this process, thereby allowing
crotch angles, while removing any branches with undesirable
organisms to invade the exposed area of the plants.
crotch angles. Trees sometimes respond to severe pruning with

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B. Sunburn C. Fertilizing and Watering
Wood which develops in the shade is very susceptible to sunburn Pruning reduces the amount of foliage on the tree while the
damage when it is suddenly exposed to higher light levels. This root system is left unchanged. The above­ground portion of the
commonly occurs, especially when large trees are pruned and pruned plant requires fewer nutrients to carry out its normal
older branches which developed in shade are suddenly exposed life functions simply because its size has been reduced. For
to full sun. Sunburn symptoms include a darkening and moderate this reason, fertilization can be reduced following pruning. The
to extreme cracking of the bark, depending on the severity (Fig. degree of reduction depends on the severity of the pruning.
15).
Just as plants require less fertilization following pruning, they
When wood is exposed to full sun after pruning, it should be often require less water, depending on weather conditions.
protected with whitewash, commonly made by diluting white When a portion of the canopy is removed, the plant will use less
latex paint with water. To be nontoxic to the tree, the paint must water than it did prior to pruning. Irrigation may be adjusted
be free of any oils, thinners, or turpentine. Whitewash should be accordingly.
applied with a brush to any large exposed branches.

Leaving enough foliage to shade the remaining large branches Hygiene Issues
after pruning prevents sunburn without the use of paints. Leaving
small branches will not compromise the desired shape of the tree Pruning tools and pruned limbs are often sources of disease
since they can be removed once the tree starts to develop more agents. Following the pruning operation for each tree, the pruned
foliage. wood should be removed from the site. In addition, pruning tools
should be disinfected before they are used to prune a subsequent
tree.

Before disinfecting tools, soil and wood debris should be wiped

from the blades of the pruning tool. The two most common
disinfecting agents are bleach and alcohol.

-For a bleach solution, mix about 2 cups of bleach in 1 gallon of

water. Soak the tools in the bleach solution for about 10 minutes.
Rinse with water before further use.

-For alcohol, use 70% ethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Soak time

is about 1 minute. Do not rinse the blades after the alcohol
treatment.

Figure 15. Sunburn of a limb causes a cracking of the bark on a

tree.

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 Special Situations Finally, the rest of the branches in the tree may be thinned.
Remove all watersprouts which are of no value. Those that are
A. Transplanting left for shading exposed areas may be removed in later years
The root system of a plant is usually reduced in size by damage or headed back to produce lateral branches. When thinning,
incurred during transplanting. Because of this, the root-shoot remember to leave a maximum amount of foliage in the interior
ratio of a plant should be restored by reducing canopy size. of the canopy so, in the case of fruiting trees, the fruit-bearing
When a portion of the foliage is removed by pruning, less surface will not be restricted to the outer portion of the canopy.
water is lost and the plant has a better chance of survival. Slight Also, interior foliage will not be produced as quickly as exterior
pruning of the roots of a transplanted plant, especially one that foliage if the center of the tree is shaded, so exterior foliage
has been in a pot, may induce root regeneration and is sometimes should be thinned sufficiently to allow for light penetration.
beneficial.

Pruning young plants at transplanting promotes denser growth of

branches and foliage. A technique called “pinching” involves
the removal of only the terminal buds on the plant with your
thumb and forefinger. As discussed before, removal of the
terminal bud promotes more branching within the plant.

B. Neglected Trees
Neglected trees are sometimes found in the home landscape or
orchard (Fig. 16). Trees that have been neglected for a number of
years are often excessively tall. If there are several tall limbs, it Figure 16. Neglected tree showing broken and crossing
is better to remove them over a number of years. Remember to branches (left), and after pruning (right).
protect against sunburn damage.
C. Rejuvenation
If tall limbs are not a problem, and the tree or shrub is just Trees and shrubs are often left in very poor condition following
overgrown and messy, certain branches should be removed first. typhoons (Fig. 17). Pruning to rejuvenate mature trees following
These include broken, diseased, insect-infested, dead or dying, a typhoon will keep trees attractive and healthy. Pruning of
and crossing branches. Removal of these branches ill structure, broken or obviously dead branches should be done as soon as
hence, allowing for proper removal of other unnecessary possible following a typhoon. However, major limbs should not
branches. be removed until it is clear that no new growth will appear on
them.
After these branches have been removed, lateral branches on the
tree can be headed back to a desired length. This will decrease Dead limbs can be identified sometimes by a shriveled, brittle
the size of the tree as well as promote interior foliage growth. appearance. The wood below the bark of a dead limb will appear
Always thin branches that are higher in the canopy more severely brown or black when scratched with a fingernail. Healthy wood
than those that is lower. will be green when scratched.

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There are different degrees to rejuvenation pruning, depending
on the extent of the damage and the purpose of the plant.
Conclusion
Rejuvenation pruning may involve only selective pruning Pruning has a dramatic effect not only on the current form of
other unwanted or damaged limbs are thinned out, similar to a a tree or shrub, but also on future growth. If done properly,
neglected tree. This would follow a typhoon which has caused successful pruning can be accomplished with no harm to the
only slight damage. Severe pruning should only follow cases of plant from disease or insects. Specific questions about pruning
extreme damage. should be directed to the nearest agricultural extension agent.

Summary
1. Use sharp tools for clean cuts at all times.
2. Have proper tools for each pruning job.
3. Keep tools clean.
4. Never use paints or tars over wounds after pruning.
5. Bark at edges of all pruning cuts should be firmly attached.
6. Always promote wide-angled rather than narrow-angled
crotches.
7. Prune young trees less severely than mature trees.
8. Prune the upper portion of the tree more heavily than the
Figure 17. Typhoon damaged tree showing bare branches on the
top of the canopy. All dead or damaged limbs can be removed.
lower portion.
9. Thin out the outer portion of a branch more severely than the
D. Very Large Trees inside portion.
Large trees should be handled differently than young, actively 10. Equipment that will damage the bark (such as climbing spurs
growing trees. Mature trees do not respond as quickly to or hooks) should not be used.
pruning injuries and are slower to re-grow than young trees. It 11. Hire professionals for large jobs.
is important, therefore, not to remove an excessive amount of
foliage from older trees.

When older trees become too large for the area they occupy, their
size should be reduced over a number of years rather than all at
once. Tall branches should be completely removed all the way
back to the main trunk or scaffold branch if possible (see "Limb
Removal"). Protect for sunburn damage since it is more of a
problem with older, established trees than with young trees.

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 Glossary Tree - perennial plant with an elongated stem, or trunk,
supporting branches and leaves in most species. In
Branch - woody structural member connected to but some usages, the definition of a tree may be narrower,
not part of the central trunk of a tree (or sometimes a including only woody plants with secondary growth,
shrub). plants that are usable as lumber or plants above a speci-
fied height.
Central Leader - the central axis of a tree, growing as a
continuation of the trunk and off which grow scaffold Water sprout - shoots that arise from the trunk of a tree
limbs. Not all trees have a single central leader. or from branches that are several years old, from latent
buds.
Crown - consists of the mass of foliage and branches
growing outward from the trunk of the tree. The aver-
age crown spread is the average horizontal width of the
crown, taken from dripline to dripline as one moves
around the crown.

Espalier - horticultural and ancient agricultural practice of

controlling woody plant growth for the production of
fruit, by pruning and tying branches to a frame, fre-
quently in formal patterns, flat against a structure such
as a wall, fence, or trellis, and also plants which have
been shaped in this way.

Pruning - a horticultural and silvicultural practice involv-

ing the selective removal of parts of a plant, such as
branches, buds, or roots.

Shrub - small-to-medium-sized woody plant. It is distin-

guished from a tree by its multiple stems and shorter
height, usually less than 6 meters (20 feet) tall.
Many thanks to Bart Lawrence of USDA Natural Resources
Conservation Service, Guam, and Joe Tuquero of CNAS
Cooperative Extension and Outreach for their helpful suggestions.

Published by the College of Natural & Applied Sciences (CNAS), University of Guam, in cooperation
with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, under Dr. Lee S. Yudin, Director/Dean. University of Guam,
CNAS, UOG Station, Mangilao, Guam 96923. Copyright 2016. For reproduction and use permission,
contact [email protected], (671) 735-2000. The University of Guam is an equal
opportunity/affirmative action institution providing programs and services to the people of Guam
without regard to race, sex, gender identity and expression, age, religion, color, national origin, ancestry,
disability, marital status, arrest and court record, sexual orientation, or status as a covered veteran.
Find CNAS publications at CNAS-RE.uog.edu.
Special thanks to the CNAS Media Office for layout and design.

Original printing 1992.

Revised layout by Emily Shipp, May 2016.