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How to make a sewing pattern bigger
or smaller
Grading sewing patterns is the act of making a pattern bigger or smaller so
that it fits your body measurements.
Pattern grading is a very interesting process because it’s not just a matter of
gradually increasing or decreasing between sizes. It takes into consideration
the nature of human body proportions and how they grow in different sizes.
How much you are supposed to grade a pattern depends on your body
measurements, but also on the human growth proportions. This means that
your body grows differently in different areas and in a different age.
For example, a child’s body grows mainly in height and less in width. While a
woman’s body grows in width much more than in height. Also, the bust and
waist grow more significantly than the neck and the shoulder.
That’s why patterns are usually graded in groups like baby, children, misses,
women and also regular, petite and tall.
If we want to grade our pattern to fit, we don’t just need to scale it, we need
to take into consideration how and where the body grows. If you just scale
let's say a bodice to fit the horizontal measurements like bust, waist, and
hips, you would probably end up with a shoulder that is too long and an
oddly shaped armhole.

Do you need to grade a sewing

pattern to fit?
Sometimes, if the pattern doesn’t fit your measurements, you might need to
make adjustments to the pattern that are different from grading.
For example, if the pattern would fit everywhere except the bust, you most
probably would need to make a full bust adjustment (FBA) and not to grade
the whole pattern.
Or, if you are taller or shorter, you might need to lengthen/shorten at the
torso or crotch area, whatever you might be working on.
If you are using a nested pattern (a pattern which has the smaller sizes
nested into the bigger ones) and your measurements spread between
different sizes already included in the pattern, you need to blend between
sizes.
Blending is when you join the pattern lines for different sizes to respond to
your body measurements. Here is an example.
If none of the above is your case, then you most probably need to grade the
whole pattern.

How to measure for pattern grading?

To grade an existing pattern accurately, you need to have in mind all the
design elements (like gathering and pleats) that add volume to the pattern
as well as the wearing ease included. Then, you need to consider how they
relate to the body measurements for that size.
For example, if you are about to grade size 10 up to size 14, measure the
paper pattern in size 10 and compare to the body measurements for that
size in the pattern description.
You are going to find out that there is a difference.
Many patterns come with body measurements charts and finished garment
measurement charts. Consider the amount for ease and design to your
measurements in order to get the right pattern dimensions.
Calculate the difference between the pattern you have and the one you
need. This difference is how much you need to grade the pattern up (or
down).
No matter which of the methods below you prefer, make sure to true the
graded pattern and make a muslin before cutting your good fabric. For best
results, try not to go for more than two sizes, because the pattern can get
distorted. If you need more than two sizes, grade the pattern once. Then,
grade the new size once again until you reach the size you want.
Also, if you need to grade a girls pattern into a woman size, it might be
better to redraft the pattern instead of just grading it up, because the
pattern was designed with different body proportions in mind.

Methods of pattern grading

There are four basic methods to grade a sewing pattern up or down: the
slash and spread method, the shift method, grading nested (evenly graded)
patterns and computer grading. You can use each one to get an accurately
graded pattern, no matter if you are a home sewist or an independent
designer.

The slash and spread method

This is one of the most popular way to resize a pattern. Its name suggests
what you have to do. First, you need to draw lines through the pattern in
locations where the body usually grows or shrinks. Then, you need to cut
through those lines and spread or overlap the pattern pieces.
What you are going to need is just a clear grid ruler, some tape, paper
scissors, and a pen.
You can see different variations of the position and number of the lines
through which you are supposed to cut and spread. There also are different
grading rules thought in different books and schools.
In general, the slash lines are drawn at approximate positions where the
body tends to grow or shrink.
Here is how I like to do it.

Increasing or decreasing the size of a bodice

To change the size of a bodice pattern (which is usually for ¼ of the body),
you need to divide the difference by four. For example, if you measured your
bust to be 48 inches and the pattern goes up to a bust of 44 inches, you
need to increase with 4 inches all around the body.
And since you are working with the pattern for ¼ of the body, you need to
divide those 4 inches by 4. That makes an overall increase of 1 inch. Then,
you need to spread that one inch across the bodice at the slash and spread
lines.
Draw three vertical lines through the bodice: one from the neckline down (1)
to the waistline, one from the shoulder down to the waist (2), and one from
the lower part of the armhole curve down (3). Those lines have approximate
positions, so don’t worry too much where to place them. Just be careful not
to go through the waist dart if there is one because this can distort the
pattern.
Then, draw two horizontal lines - one from center front to the armhole (4)
and one from center front to the side seam (5).
Cut through the lines and divide that one inch across the lines as shown on
the image above. Add ¼ inch at lines 1 and 2. Add ½ inch at line 3. Add ¼
inch at each horizontal line (lines 4 and 5).
Redraw the pattern following the new outlines. Smooth at the curves and
refine the edges.
Here is an example in centimeters.
Let’s say we need to upgrade the pattern with 4 cms. For a ¼ bodice that
would be 1 cm. We spread at lines 1,2, 4 and 5 with ¼ or 0.25 cms and with
½ or 0.5 cms at line 3.
If you need to make the pattern smaller, instead of spreading the pattern
pieces, overlap them following the same instructions.
Make the same adjustment to the back bodice pattern piece as well.
Increasing or decreasing the size of the sleeve
To adjust the sleeve so that it fits into the graded bodice pattern, you need
to make similar changes at the same places.
Draw three horizontal lines midway between bicep and the cap (line 1),
between the bicep and the elbow (line 2), and between the elbow and the
hem (line 3). Draw vertical lines that are perpendicular to the grainline at
these approximate positions: between the seam and front notch down to the
hem (line 4), seam and back notch down to hem (line 5), and the cap sleeve
to hem at the center (line 6). If the pattern comes without notches, draw the
lines at approximate positions.
Let’s say we are grading this sleeve to match the bodice above. We have the
same inch to spread overall the sleeve. Cut through the lines and divide that
one inch across the lines as shown on the image below. Add ¼ inch at each
horizontal line (lines 1, 2 and 3). Add ¼ inch at line 4 and 5. Add ½ inch at
line 6.
This way the sleeve curve will increase with two inches. We’ve increased the
armhole length with 3/4 inch at the front and the same at the back. That
makes an overall extension of 1 ½ inch. The overall extension of the sleeve
curve is 4 x ¼ +½ = 1 ½ inch. It’s the same as the armhole, so it should
match nicely.
Redraw the sleeve following the new outlines. Smooth at the curves and
refine the edges. Always walk and true the sleeve with the armhole curve to
see if they match.
Here is the example in centimeters.
We’ve added 0.75 cm to the armhole curve at both front and back bodice. It
amounts to 1.5 cm along the armhole. The overall extension of the sleeve
curve is 4 times ¼ +½ = (4x0.25) + 0.5 = 1.5 cm. It matches the armhole,
but make sure by walking and truing your pattern.

How to make a skirt pattern bigger or smaller

To change the size of a skirt pattern (which is usually for ¼ of the body), you
need to divide the difference by four. Let’s use the same example and
increase with 4 inches all around the body.
The front skirt piece is for ¼ of the body, so you need to divide those 4
inches by 4. That makes 1-inch overall increase. Then, you need to spread
that one inch across the skirt front at the slash and spread lines.
Draw three vertical lines through the skirt from waistline to hem: two
between the center front and the dart (lines 1 and 2), and one between the
dart and the side seam (3).
Then, draw two horizontal lines - one at the hipline (4) and one at mid-thigh
(5).

Cut through the lines and divide that one inch across the lines as shown on
the image above. Add ¼ inch at line 1 and 2. Add ½ inch at line 3. Add ½
inch at each horizontal line (lines 4 and 5).
Here is an example in centimeters.
Let’s say we need to upgrade the pattern with 4 cms. For a ¼ skirt that
would be 1 cm. We spread at the lines and leave 0.25 cm at lines 1 and 2.
Then, leave half a centimeter at lines 3, 4 and 5.
Redraw the pattern, following the new outlines.
If you need to make the pattern smaller, instead of spreading the pattern
pieces, overlap them following the same instructions.
Make the same adjustment to the back skirt pattern piece as well.

How to make a pants pattern bigger or smaller

To change the size of a pants pattern (which also is usually for ¼ of the
body), you need to divide the difference by four. Using the same example,
we need to increase with 4 inches. Divide those 4 inches by 4. That makes 1-
inch overall increase. Then, spread that one inch across the pants front/back
at the slash and spread lines.
Draw three vertical lines through the front from waistline to hem: two
between the center front and the dart if there is one (lines 1 and 2), and one
between the dart and the side seam (3).
Then, draw two horizontal lines - one at the hipline (4) and one at mid-thigh
(5). Add one more vertical line at the midpoint of the front/back crotch
extension (line 6).
To grade the back pattern piece, follow the same steps.

Cut through the lines and divide that one inch across the lines as shown on
the image above. Add ¼ inch at lines 1 and 2. Add ½ inch at line 3. Add ½
inch at each horizontal line (lines 4 and 5). At the mid crotch line, add ⅓ inch
for the front and the ½ for the back pattern.
Here is an example in centimeters.
Let’s say we need to upgrade the pattern with 4 cms. For a ¼ pants that
would be 1 cm. We spread at the lines and leave 0.25 cm at lines 1 and 2.
Then, leave half a cm at lines 3, 4 and 5. At line 6, leave ⅓ for the front
crotch (0.3 cm) and ½ for the back crotch (0.5 cms).
Redraw the pattern following the new outlines.
If you need to make the pattern smaller, instead of spreading the pattern
pieces, overlap them following the same instructions.
Grading nested (evenly graded) patterns
Evenly graded are those patterns that have the same distance between sizes
in any point (for example the bust) and you can draw a straight line through
the sizes at that point (see the image below). They are also called nested
because smaller sizes are arranged into the bigger sizes. Most commercial
patterns are evenly graded.
It's fairly easy to find out if the pattern you are dealing with is evenly graded.
Looking at the example below, I can tell that the pattern increases with the
same distance in every size. The neckline rises with 1/16 inch in every size,
the hemline drops with 1/4 and the side grows with 1/4 as well and so on.
Let's say you've measured and found out that you need to go one size up.
Draw straight lines at all angles through all sizes. Then, draw a couple of
lines through the curves as well. Mark at any point where the pattern
changes.
Measure how much the patterns changes with between sizes at that line.
Following the line, mark with a dot at the same distance you've measured.
Connect the dots with a smooth curve at the neckline and armhole. Connect
all other dots with a straight line and make sure the angles are right.
If you need to grade with 2 or 3 sizes for example, double or triple the
distance between patterns at every point.
The shifting method for pattern grading
Pattern shifting is the act of increasing or decreasing the size of a pattern by
tracing and moving it up, down, left or right by a measured distance and
then retracing the pattern in a new size.
To make a smaller size, you first trace the original pattern. Then, move it in
and up from a fixed point which is usually the center front or back (for a
bodice).
To make the size bigger, trace the pattern and then move it out and down.
The distance you are supposed to move it is a fraction of the overall
difference.
This method gives as accurate results as the slash and spread method, but
IMO requires more calculations. There are special grading rulers to simplify
the process.
I know designers that prefer this method to grade. It might be the best
match for you, too.
If you want to learn more about this method of grading, check the resources
I list below.

Simplified grading of a bodice

This method is an easy way to grade manually, especially when you are in a
hurry. It’s not one that I’ve seen in many books for grading, but I like it
because it is fast and produces accurate results, especially for simple
patterns.
If you are willing to stick to more popular solutions, please use one of the
methods above.
But if you to give this one a try, here is how to do it.
Let’s say you have a size 8 and you want to grade up to a 10. Shift ⅛ of an
inch up at the neckline, then ⅛ of an inch out for the shoulder (see the
image). Then ⅛ of an inch down the armhole and ¼ out at the side. Go down
with ¼ for the hem. Drop the waist down with ⅛ of an inch per size and
move the dart (if there is any) ¼ out and ⅛ down.

Keep the center front/center back on point. Retrace the new pattern size
following the new points. These measurements are for a ¼ bodice. Add them
to both sides of the body (front and back).
In cms, that would be 0.3 cms for ⅛ of an inch and 0.6 cms for ½.
For larger sizes (size 16 and up), replace ⅛ with ¼ and ¼ with ½.
Computer grading
Computer grading is, in my opinion, the fastest and easiest way to grade
patterns. But, it requires some specialized knowledge about the specific
software you are going to use. Unfortunately, the specialized software for
grading sewing patterns is very expensive.
But you can quite well replace it with a much cheaper software for digital
design. To digitalize and grade my patterns, I use Adobe Illustrator CC and I
really like it. Although it is not created with pattern design and grading in
mind, there is a set of tools that you can use to get great, accurate results
with sewing patterns.
As with any other software, there is a learning curve to grasp it. But once
you get to know the right tools and how to use them, you can spend
considerably less time than if you were doing it manually.
I happen to know that there are other types of software that are completely
free (open source) and can replace Adobe Illustrator, but I haven’t used any
of those and can’t give an opinion. If you can, please share what you think in
the comments below.

Level up your pattern grading skills

No matter how many pieces are there in a pattern or how complicated the
design is, all patterns are based on onе of the main slopers. That’s why you
can grade it up or down just as a basic pattern.

Grading a multi piece pattern

I made a pattern recently that I had to grade in girls and women sizes. It is a
multi piece pattern and I graded from toddlers’ to girls’ sizes 14 and women
sizes 0 to 3X plus. In fact, the pattern grading process inspired this post.
It sure was a challenge to my grading skills. I had to grade in toddlers sizes
first, then in girls’ up to size 14. I also had to grade in regular women sizes
and then in plus sizes as well. On top of that, it was a multi piece pattern.
So how do you grade a multi piece pattern? The same way you grade a one
piece bodice, pants or skirt pattern.
Here is the dress I was working on. I used the slash and spread method to
grade it.
First, I stacked the details on top of each other to create the shape they are
going to take when sewn. Then, I draw the slash and spread lines at the
positions. I draw 6 lines instead of three because this pattern has a whole
front. I also draw three horizontal lines because the pattern is for a dress
(which combines the bodice and the skirt).
Then, I slash, spread, and redraw the pattern in the new size.