Building and Using

an Automated
Foam Core Cutter
by Curtis Suter, [email protected]

I have always been interested in cutting

my own foam wing cores and have
attempted several times to do so with
varied results.

I f your time is worth more than your

available cash on hand, then please
purchase a Tekoa Feather/Cut, as the
reviews I’ve read are nothing but the
best, but for me it’s more than I wanted
to allocate of my model budget.
When I decided I wanted to build my own
hands-free foam cutter the research was
difficult. There were more variations than
words in this article, and I just couldn’t
find one method that I really liked the
best. There was always something
that I liked better with another’s setup;
assembly price, method, design,
materials etc…
This brings me to this article, a “single 1
source” that will walk the reader through
purchasing, building and setting up and
Here’s a photo of what we’re constructing - the Bow Cutter,
cutting foam wing cores.
the Automater, a foam core blank and templates.

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104 R/C Soaring Digest
I certainly can’t take any more credit 4 each 1 1/4 inch diameter pulleys for the
for this other than putting together this Automater
article. The ideas, methods etc… are 4 each washers so the pulley won’t bind
from other sources. At the end of this against the fixed arm
article, credit has been given to those String for the Automater; I used some
sources I’ve used, and my apologies to winch string I had on hand
anyone I’ve left out. Screws to secure the pulleys to the Fixed
First you’ll have to go shopping. Once Arm
Screws to secure the Fixed Arm to your
2
home from obtaining all the materials it
took me about three hours to construct work bench
both the “Cutting Bow” and the 1 1/2 inch bushing for the Swing Arm
“Automater,” both for less than 40 US 1 3/4 inch nut and bolt for Swing Arm; angle. The 1/4 inch diameter music wire
dollars! Then after wasting some foam bolt is inserted into bushing should slide in and out of the handle but
testing temperatures, techniques, etc… 3 each small clamps used for holding the not be overly loose. Now take the music
I have now very effortlessly cut some strings to the Swing Arm wire and cut it into two 14 inch lengths.
beautiful and accurate foam wings for a One pound of dead weight used to pull Then file a groove about 1-2 millimeters
discus launch glider (DLG). the bow cutter through the foam; I in on each end of the wire all the way
used a bag of dry beans around. This will hold the cutting wire in
Let’s get started. Here’s your shopping Small Clips; I used alligator clips place.
list:
Making the Cutting Bow Now insert both legs into the handle and
Parts List (plans on opposite page) take your .016 diameter single strand
Cutting Bow Parts Now that you’re back from shopping let’s wire and wrap around one leg and twist
1 each 1 1/2 x 3/4 x 60 inch hardwood build the Cutting Bow. We’ll need the it a few times to hold it in place as shown
for the Bow Cutter handle; I used Oak 1 1/2 x 3/4 x 60 inch hardwood which is in Photo 2. Now pull it tight till the ends
1 each 1/4 x 36 inch music wire i.e. the bows handle. Cut it to the dimension of both legs are vertical under the bow
spring steel hardened and tempered shown on the plan which is 24”. This will handle where the legs exit and tie off as
for Bow Cutter Legs allow you to cut about a 20” span. The before. Your wire should “twang” when
Hot wire; I used .016 diameter stainless left over piece should be 36” and this plucked. The beauty of this setup is
steel fishing leader (Single Strand will let you cut a 32” span core. Yep, you that when the wire expands/contracts
Wire from Cabela’s) get two bows for the price one piece of during heating/cooling, the tension in the
Tailwheel assembly; wheel, axle and hardwood. The bow legs are swappable music wire legs automatically adjusts the
wheel collars between the bow handles. Now cut a 22 cutters tension. So there is no forgetting
Automater Parts 1/2 degree angle into each end of the to loosen the tension from the bow
bow handle. Approximately 1/2 inch in before turning power off! Brilliant!
2 each 1 1/2 x 3/4 x 60 inch wood from the end drill a 1/4 inch hole down
stringers for the Fixed and Swing Congratulations, you have now made a
through the handle parallel with this cutting bow!
Arm; I used Pine

November 2008 105

 3 4

I guess we’re not quite done as we do Making the Automater 1/2 inch between the top and front holes.
need to add a wheel which is required (Plans on opposite page) Start drilling where you like as it’s not
for the automated process. See Photos 3 critical.
Cut the two lengths of pine to 52 inches
and 4. The pulley on the front, far right side,
each. With the leftover scrap cut a
The height or size of the tailwheel is not length to four inches which will be used should be flush with the end of the fixed
critical; I used what I had on hand. Drill to connect the Fixed and Swing Arms arm, see plans. This pulley will never
a hole in the handle; bend some wire together. be moved, but the other three pulleys
for your axle and using wheel collars will move depending upon the core size
Now let’s drill some holes!
attach the wheel to the bow handle. The you’re cutting.
wheel needs to be adjustable but then The holes aren’t really necessary at this
Take the four inch long piece of pine and
be able to hold its setting during the cut. time, but I found it easier to just get them
the swing arm, align them as the plans
I accomplished this with a small piece of out of the way. These holes are 1/4 inch
show and drill a hole through both pieces
receiver foam as a friction pad which I deep pilot holes which the pulleys will be
which will accept the bushing. Insert the
lock the wheel collars against. screwed into; this prevents cracking the
bushing and screw together with the nut
wood when screwing the pulleys in place.
I’ll explain how to align the tailwheel once and bolt. The arm should rotate freely.
See Photo 5.
we start cutting cores. Now secure the four inch piece of pine
Take one piece of pine and this will be to the fixed arm with two screws. See
Now we’re done with the cutting bow.
the fixed arm. We’ll be drilling holes in Photo 6.
the top and front of the arm. The holes I
drilled are one inch apart and offset by

106 R/C Soaring Digest

November 2008 107
 5

Take two screws and secure them part way into the ends of the two arms
as shown in Photo 7. Take a piece of string and make a loop the length 6
that will allow the swing arm to stay in place parallel with the fixed arm
which makes setting up the automated process easier.
We need to calibrate the swing arm in percentage of its length. With a
ruler, measure from the center of the pivot to the end of the arm, you
should have just over 50 inches. The pivot will be zero percent and at 50
inches will be 100%. This means that every 1/2 inch is 1%. Mark the entire
length of the swing arm as shown on the plans and in Photos 5 and 7.
Secure the fixed arm to your bench with two screws so that the top of the
fixed arm is slightly above the table and it doesn’t affect the operation of
the pulleys.
Congratulations, you’ve now built an Automatic Foam Bow Cutting
System!!!
Now that the build is all done it’s time to setup the Automater and make
our first cut.
This article isn’t intended to be about templates or power supplies,
but I would like to take the liberty to briefly explain how I’m making my 7
templates and the power supply I’m using.

108 R/C Soaring Digest

 chord lengths. When your cut is made
the airfoil transition is completed. Same
with wash-in/out i.e. twist; simply raise or
lower the tip template prior to the cut and
the twist is automatically cut.
Profili is very good at making accurate
templates that are easy to use and
automatically allow for twist.
Power Supply
All that’s required in a power supply is
either AC or DC with a stable current
supply. It seems that building a power
supply isn’t too difficult or expensive;
Charles River RC has plans for a simple
power supply with Radio Shack part
Templates At the end of the article there are two numbers. <http://www.charlesriverrc.org/
photos showing the leading edge against articles/tools/joedydruliafoamcutterps.
I purchased a computer program called
the templates, you’ll notice there is htm>
Profili a few years ago and what a great
airfoil program it is. Please see the minimal sanding that’s required to the I’m using my AstroFlight 110D battery
manufacturer links at the end of the leading edges. charger as my power supply. There is an
article. The laser cutter I used is Laser Edge undocumented feature that allows the
“Precision Custom Laser Cutting and charger to be placed into “test” mode
First I choose the airfoil I wish to use,
Engraving.” I’m very impressed by thus bypassing the peak detection. I’ve
type in the chord length, washin/out,
their service, support, and product. found that approximately 1.9 amps on my
i.e. twist, and then export the file to my
However, I may go back to cutting my 20 inch bow works flawlessly. I’m using
computer aided design (CAD) program
own templates as they have a minimum a household power cord from the power
for editing. I then send this file to a laser
order of $50 and it could easily get supply to the cutting wire.
cutter.
expensive, but the accuracy of your airfoil David Forbes sent me a photo of his
I change the leading and trailing edge is all about the templates. Decisions, power supply setup. He uses a Harbor
entries in the CAD program so the cutter decisions…. Freight speed control Part #43060.
wire has a less acute angle over the
This might be a good time to add that He then plugs the speed control into a
leading edge. See the above plots. The
if you have an airfoil that transitions 24VAC 1.5amp transformer. David says,
top airfoil is what comes out of Profili, the
from one airfoil to another across the “Best place to find one is a junk shop.
bottom two are how I change the leading
span, then simply cut your root and tip 24VAC is not that common, and before
edge entries.
templates to the different airfoils and I found this one I was using a 12VAC

November 2008 109

 9
8
block of foam to the planform by drawing while allowing the weight of the bow to
one. I’m not sure I could tell a difference, the planform onto the foam block, leaving make the cut. See Photo 10.
and these are commonly used to power 1/4 inch more foam on the leading and
halogen desk lamps.” See Photo 8. Setting up the Cutter
trailing edges than the desired wing
It’s very important that the user is chord. Then I cut the foam to the exact Now we have a block of foam that’s the
isolated from the power source, span I’m using. exact span of the project and oversized
especially since he/she is holding by 1/4 inch on the leading and trailing
To do the actual cutting, I take two 1/2 edges. I then tape down a large sheet
onto the steel bows during the cutting inch square by 12 inch long pieces of
process. As an added safety measure of paper, larger than the core, on my
wood stock and screw them vertical to building board and draw a reference line
the bow legs could have heat shrink the front of my workbench. This allows
placed over them as a safe hand hold. connecting the root and tip leading and
me to lay a ruler down on my cut line trailing edges respectively. Note: Ensure
“Please be careful as some power setups then heat up my bow and make the cut. the trailing edge is parallel with the fixed
can supply dangerous voltage.” See Photo 9. arm. This line is used to align the top and
Preparing the Foam Then I take my hot wire and apply bottom templates.
I’m using two inch thick blue foam from pressure against the vertical wood The templates are marked with the
a major hardware store. First I cut the pieces and guide the wire down the foam leading and trailing edge station lines,

110 R/C Soaring Digest

 0 and 10 respectively. The goal is to get
the cut to begin and end evenly at these
station marks. I use a 1/2 inch leading
and trailing edge ramp so the template
should extend beyond the front and
rear of the foam by 1/4 inch, since I’ve
oversized the foam core leading and
trailing edges by 1/4 inch. See Photo 11.
This is the root and shows the reference
lines drawn on the paper aligned with the
zero and 10 marks on the template.
Lay the core down with the trailing edge
to the rear of the table parallel with the
fixed arm. For a tapered wing the trailing
edge of the core is always parallel with
10 the fixed arm and the bow cutter will
be angled when the cut starts. The cut
is made from the leading to the trailing
edge, and the bottom template is cut
first. I weigh the core down with some
heavy weights to prevent the core from
moving and for removing warps that are
inherent in the foam during the cut.
I secure the templates to the foam core
using 3M Scotch ATG 924 adhesive
transfer tape. Perhaps a better method of
attaching and aligning the templates is to
use a small pin, nail, rivet, etc… Lay the
top and bottom templates together and
drill two small holes in the template, one
11 forward and one aft and insert the pin
through the templates and into the foam
block to hold them in place. Then when
you swap templates from the bottom to
top the holes in the foam will maintain the
alignment.

November 2008 111

Align the bottom of the template at the 0 and 10 station marks
with the line drawn on the paper and secure it to the foam even
with the bottom of the foam and hard against the table. If you’re
using a pin then insert the pins through the template and into
the foam.
If there is any wing twist, Profili will automatically print the
template with the required angle. If your airfoil program doesn’t
print templates with a twist angle then the user will have to
determine this when attaching the tips template to the foam
blank.
Now the foam block and templates are aligned but where do
we attach the strings to the swing arm and where do the pulleys
go?
If we were cutting a constant chord wing, i.e. the root and tip
chords the same, we’d simply attach both strings to the 100%
point. Then when the swing arm is lowered both root and tip
would cut at the same speed.
However, we’re cutting a core that has a different root and tip
chords, so we need to slow down the shorter chord cutting
speed. The idea is to get the cutting wire to enter the leading
edge and exit the trailing edge at the exact same time. If this
doesn’t happen the airfoil is compromised. Let’s say the root
chord is 10 inches and the tip chord 7 inches. The smaller
chord is clipped to a percentage less than 100% so that as the
swing arm lowers during the cut, the smaller chord will cut at a
slower rate.
So let’s see how to determine what percentage to attach the
smaller chord too. It’s pretty easy but it does require some
math.
The long chord will always be clipped to the swing arm at the However, it’s quite more complex than that, so I’ve written a
100% point. To determine where to clip the short chord is small spreadsheet in Microsoft Excel called “Foam Cutter Calc”
where the math is involved. Very simply, if you divide the short that allows you to enter the dimensions of your setup and it’ll
chord by the long chord and multiply by 100 you’ll get close, give you the exact location where to clip the string to the swing
then you can test the cut as explained later and adjust from arm for the smaller chord. See my website to download the
there. Calc - the link is at the end of this article.

112 R/C Soaring Digest

If you don’t have MS Excel here’s the
formula:
First we need to determine a value we’ll
call R1:
R1 = (Long Chord – Short Chord) /
Core Span * ((Length between the
Pull Clips – Core Span)/2)
Then to find the actual percentage where
the short chord clips to:
(Short Chord – R1)/(Long Chord +
R1)*100
Example:
Say our planform has a 10 inch and 7
inch chord with a 20 inch span and the
pull clips are 24" apart. The simple math
would give us a 70% clip point. The
accurate formula results in a percentage
of 65%. If you used the simple formula
you could then narrow down the exact
clip point by testing the cut. A snapshot 12
of the Foam Cutter Calc spreadsheet is
on the opposite page.
Now that we know where to attach bow. Attach the clips to each side of the When we cut the other half of the wing
the strings let’s route them through bow cutter wire and route straight back the larger and smaller chords swap
the pulleys and clip to the swing arm. to the top of the fixed arm, then screw sides, just swap where the strings attach
Cut your string into approximately two in a pulley to the top of the fixed arm so to the swing arm by rerouting the strings
lengths of 60 inches each. This string is the string can be routed to the right. Take through the pulleys - the clip positions do
used to pull the bow cutter through the another pulley and secure to the front of not change. The strings will cross on the
foam. It’s attached to the bow cutter wire the fixed arm at the far right end. This cut that has the small chord on the right,
with your alligator clips. is the only pulley that will never move. but this isn’t an issue. See Photo 12. The
Take the bow and center the cutting wire It’s our 100% pulley that the long chord strings are crossing just above and to the
on the templates so it’s butted up against attaches to. Take the string that’s on the right of the left pulley in this photo.
the leading edge. The pull strings need larger chord and route around this pulley Testing the Cut
to pull perpendicular to the fixed arm and and attach to the swing arm via your clip.
Then route the short chord and clip to The setup is all done so let’s make the
the clips should be just outside of the
the 65% on the swing arm. cut.
core blank - not out by the ends of the

November 2008 113

 This really is all about trial and error and confident the cutting wire entry and exits
keeping notes, as changing any one of are timed perfectly.
the items above will affect the cut. Making the Cut
Don’t be afraid to jump in and waste Now that the tests work fine, make
some foam! sure the core hasn’t moved and put the
The tail wheel is set so the bow doesn’t weights back on top of the core evenly.
move laterally to either side during the Then butt the cutting wire up against the
cut. Set the wheel so that it tracks about leading edge of the templates, realign
perpendicular to the leading edge of the the tracking wheel, and make sure the
foam core as it’s laid out on the table, or strings are properly routed through the
pointed slightly towards the longer chord. pulleys and they are secured to the
It’s a trial and error setting. If you see proper locations on the swing arm with
the bow moving to one side or the other even tension.
during the cut you can turn the wheel to Now let’s make our first cut. Apply heat
straighten it up. to your bow by turning on the power
Here’s how to accomplish the test. supply. Your wire should not turn red, if it
Carefully remove the weight off the top does, you have way too much heat.
of the foam core and place one weight I hold the handle with one hand and
13 behind the core to prevent the core
from moving aft. Place the cutting wire
remove the string that’s holding the
swing arm to the fixed arm, then I take
butted up against the leading edge of the both hands and place on the bow legs
templates, adjust your strings and clip to near where the cutting wire is attached
The last item in our shopping list is the the swing arm with even tension. and place them on top of the templates
bag of beans, or weight. See Photo 13. With power off, I hold the bow handle and slowly guide them into the foam.
I use a one pound bag and attach this and remove the short piece of string Once the wire is fully into the foam I let
to the 50% location on the swing arm. that’s holding the swing arm to the fixed go and watch the magic work. Be ready
Obviously the closer the weight is to the arm. Place the wire on TOP of the foam to catch the bow and/or the swing arm
100% point the faster the shorter cut will and while holding a little pressure to the when the wire exits the trailing edge.
be. bow cutting handle allow the cutting wire Make sure you turn power off the bow
With my setup of .016 gauge wire, one to slide aft as if it were cutting. The wire after the cut.
pound bag at the 50% point, and 1.8 should enter and exit the leading and
trailing edges at the same time. If the Please be Careful and Safe with the hot
amps using blue foam, I get a perfect
wire doesn’t exit evenly you may need to wire and power supply. You’re dealing
cut. You’re looking for about 3-5 seconds
readjust where the smaller chord string with currents that can kill and a hot wire
per inch for your cut; however this varies
is attached to the swing arm. Continue that will burn through your skin very
depending on if you’re counting the
adjusting and performing tests till you’re quickly!
larger or smaller chord.

114 R/C Soaring Digest

Photo 14 shows the system ready to make the cut.
We’re half way through the bottom cut in Photo 15.
In Photo 16, notice how the strings are routed. The short chord
is on the left and it’s attached to the 72% point on the swing
arm. I’m actually cutting a different core than the example I
used in “Setting up the cutter,” which is why it’s not attached to
the 65% point in this photo.
Photo 17 shows the hot wire halfway through the top cut.
The hot wire is just about off the trailing edge in Photo 18.
Looks like it’ll come off the trailing edge evenly. Great!
That’s it!
It’s really simpler than what it takes to read this article. It’s
all about trial and error, so don’t expect your first cut to be
flawless. 14
Here’s the proof. In Photos 19, 20, and 21, no sanding has been
done to the core.
Photo 19 shows the completed core.
The root section, using an AG455ct airfoil, is shown in Photo 20.
And here’s the tip section in Photo 21. The tip section is an
AG46ct airfoil.
Tips and other Techniques
1) When cutting the lower airfoil the pull on the wire tends to
cause the lower leading edge to be pulled through the foam at
an angle and not cut the exact airfoil shape, so I apply a little
down and forward pressure to the bow till the wire has passed
this area of the airfoil, then I let go.
I’ve read where a two ounce lead fishing weight is attached to
the bow legs to help with this. Then when the top airfoil is cut
the weights are either removed or slid up the bow legs towards
the handle to remove the pressure. See figure 26 and 27 for an
example of the weights. 15

November 2008 115

 16
17

19

20

18 21
116 R/C Soaring Digest
2) Another method of cutting cores that suggested a high ceiling such as 10 feet Manufacturer Links:
have a large taper such as DLG wingtips was required. See Figure 26. Curtis Suter’s Website <http://h1.ripway.
or tail feathers is to use the bow cutter Credits com/cloudyifr/index.html>
on a pivot. David Forbes sent a photo of Tekoa Feather/Cut <http://www.tekoa.
this method, see Photos 22 and 23. He I’d like to thanks the folks at RCGroups com/home.php>
states that there are no calculations to do forum; David Forbes, Jon Stone and Vacuum Bagging Made Easy Video
as you only use one string and attach it Phil Barnes for their input and the <http://home.paonline.com/hayman/
to the 100% point on the swing arm. The Charles River RC website for hosting PAGE2.htm>
swing arm allows for a nice smooth even the Minnesota Radio Controlled Soaring Profili <http://www.profili2.com>
cut. The photos are self explanatory. Society (MRCSS), tutorial on building a Laser Edge <http://www.
Hands-Off Foam Cutter. laseredgecutters.com>
3) David Forbes substituted his pull string
from the swing arm to the cutting bow If a picture is worth a thousand words Astro Flight <http://www.astroflight.com>
with a pliable silicone wire which doubles then a video must be worth a million; I Charles River RC <http://www.
as his source of power for his cutting highly recommend Phil Barnes and Bill charlesriverrc.org>
bow wire thus eliminating the household Haymaker’s video on “Vacuum Bagging Thanks to Herk Stokely, David Forbes,
extension cord I have running down my Made Easy” which not only has a lot of and Chip Baber for reviewing this article.
bows handle. foam cutting tips but then shows in detail
how to take your professionally cut cores If you’ve enjoyed this article or build the
4) Some folks have had good success and vacuum bag them into a flyable automated foam cutter from I’d certainly
with hanging their cutting bow from the product. Which is what this is all about, appreciate feedback of your experience.
ceiling by a string attached to the handle flying!
instead of using the tracking wheel; they

November 2008 117