}
tes ghing Mar ret for beating Heres the ser he
Fe Tsay began "Hey Foods Cop may Mae 2,
a ing ir heatesant choolate barbers KNOW” 6
see onto the publi, but the Defense Department doesn’ want
them
“Fegemaan never mentioned the pending dispute at the GAO-
osm?
Gh sve vex is moti, he hws war comin 0 8
Oe ered ose Hey deat Am
on a re, How nu weed 8 Mas
oe re produto he Fetg Te wt of Words >
a ded monte ett econ ut ok
edu AO ey alga were te oF not—HEIE
J elng en ha en sis ved
ng on neve tee Ma choca 9 ee
Fe an geen Theta al is
min we a eng ey who rods
fora GAO ape
ONO set» zinmerman id oy A big
“Tewari ey ded the pte, aed he mi
wou ty Bat ew a en Ye ke
ve boa cut By eng itary secret Somethings Dat
ec as pny by Pentagon standards—and twas for chocolat,
for goad ske. Chocolat
Sean ee ek you: Whatever happened to Wily Wonka?”
a» The Enrtiors oF CvOcoUNTe
Chapter Joo
CANDY FROM
STRANGERS
Levin mi he
Cosa ee vem
rere oa
Hk Te WORD ti magi Awe ins
‘childhood. To days of hide-and-seel a a
splint enw eaoinnrbe
ninth aro pn he ey
Teel mg let ee dl
ig an rat do. They son om tee
aoe layground, gentle reminders of a time he
a ae into a drugstore could make your mouth =
2c baht a candy ba rig bi anda
filled bag with suckers to spare. A piee of candy was orehan jut te was an experience The sight of sour al and
sa Son ant gudiop, and chncolate—mownenis of
Ja oe) sa sme oferta ne cold ol sa at
rc Sivieoning, cin ofa ova nd where es owed
see and mantmaions hang om the ees
ete Rol Tass, n, the ol compaoy a Aen
oe ees Naf poony-seed ist aug the
aoe sec Tose they ced can be pcs ony ia
faunas sea re $1.29.
Sean me fen penny cane red the andy couse, you could
con Ser try andthe mnafcring cents f unre
eee ee ompane mound he nton, Inside Teas evn
ai un you could seinen ad gin whip up moun
SS sce rely ade i a
ease Ro Nes, gry and machinery seth ut
ne longer and ng hiner chine he
atc Ef gunna ante oll was sed ino be
Seed pees
“eer wou ofthe Hey tos: 0 hee ay 1950,
spor dao ool ayer ted toe ees ofc
Fane on omeyor bes ned with exciton ls! nie
i theme Hey, whic fe pit cn the
am ten you threw sony he want te BADE ms
cate neha ada tos thonght aera 183 Het
sae Ge yng th ener H ny and then the eter Tan
ae ard the ening bn the SHE Noone knee why ei
chen aes thsway Hey dt Lake pling bop
ee hor mung hotdogs, was par of growing up the
USA
Sti, most often’ tries are a ger ope Ot
ee T.oe tt Dros Admainration played i prt with Reh
wt ons an ence fr fey Bet there wae more han th
JFRESSE indy the so many ovis nthe non bas se
ona sec ering ino bier bles
Tee jn cad conver who dhe i watching
chin Ebi dn of of ects. i place e180 gk
ae ea nd shy wiih ogeter con 78 perce of
Sark the eandy Lnglom, bar agin bac— chose
Ines
3e_ Twe faves oF Cnocoure
Tay’ candy ae ci’ fr hones he od
ctf hel dys Man
sts neo wry shout tn Pan peony
sig reine nee eee Coe
vues age ore rsaton au of Dow Chen Coa
$6 Sate trol ene Nanay ahr 50
oc rm th ake perc 14 hn cy mat
re ed pag cone May mao Ts Miky
Woy andthe ice awh ake ema’ rent
berate pot we ended me 19700 Cane coe
ay Van hguraeat fomaon tnc e Cer
tral Ineligence Agency, located just two miles 23
‘el ny loeated ji om the compaay’s
“Mio isthe presen of Mar” cars
“Pam sory Ica’ give othe names of our seit," a reception
ieeples. Clk? i
And Mari not aloe. The privately hed company i square
company i squarely inthe
tein ofthe et ofthe indy, which remains dominated by fly.
‘owned fms, Many ofthese fms are into ther shir, fourth an filth
{generations of ownership, unheard of ia today's busines world. They
trac thei roots bck to single founder, typically an immigrant with
family recipe and an afin for sweets
‘The story of how these fms developed and grew ix one of the most
facinating in U.S, busines, Tes a ale of Emly dynaniesofeatepre
neural genius, of manufacturing biance and of marketing mishaps. I
‘sal histor of America, a told through sweet roth.
Pethaps this tory should have bees shared long ago. Bu inthe
‘andy busines, Virtalyallof the pate ems in the industry and even
‘ome of the publicly held ones, Keep their operations to themes,
Badly sharing thei prodcte withthe pubic bt keeping everthing ee
ander raps As rel cndy has become oe ofthe mio secrete
fusries in the United State. Senge, realy, considering there's noth
inghorfl ins Kr at ca ranch elec eco
ing alone, "
Neverthe
si imposible to get PEZ Cand Ineo evel ay
‘hing 2 ll about the plastic gio that dy b ’
the patie gizmo that jects candy biks fom the
Ineads of Popeye, Goofy and Miss Piggy The forty two-year-old private
‘ompany, based in Orange, Connectct, has become spar of Amer
an por cular, bur wl eventing abut tae, not even
‘onns it. There is no spokesperson far the company, no printed
‘Canoy Fton Srianatts» 27information abou ts produc and no iatevews with ts pesonnel
ee renin Seow McWintic a Harvarrted MBA who
aaah) come, Oy ngs wo the company ae sme
Sere Ca TZ callers who in he absence of oration
sae te formed ter own eto to share PEZ for
ra ee wich has pbc waded sock ands eqred by bw
wo an bmn wih harcolens and pote avo 2
2 eke ay pomible And the company which caren ranks
‘atu an nthe ©. markt sy oe
Se ete publ hed doeute mean we hive wo elk
or eee at ne do sad Rad Zimermas, who stepped
Sra ae Oe cueman and CEO in. 1993. "Out competion i
1 ue ad tar ge then the vag The don ase ©
tare Bing south bons, 0 why shoud we”
Haan ut, pene ouside the apt nds a
eno omen song Henhey and May and other
aan ee bogh te chose wes Dave Ben gig since th
say eT Ret Mas Sr, vowed fo beat Heh) ais own
cerns Cote and Dept hata ed bythe me sd Se
ee eee onduy sly. The pes flows he claw
ra gh Cake nnd Pep were layer inthe Word Sees
To ne Pesan Gal ins Te Wal Se Jour
sal el ne hm hits cn the Coke and Pp on
cera cot word war wen onthe fing bate er
wereeasung chocolate tur Joseph Vio, present of Herb
Tenet gat bt huneroan “Wee hs bd 8 Coke en
Cc ee wane ead. Tet thar wed ak about 8
tbe pany aeation”
a ey ema campeiton beeen the candy tas, oth
Meee Gath iensonay downplay the suggle Bcese they
Maid not tna mls mags They Kee he Desert Ba
eect ren an ot iy he emg ED
ferbie alkng abou the GAO appeal
ab oe rte ge” Zimmerman sid of the GAO
pro owe reilly dink we need go int das commen
Fenn in can
or apes conrece in 1993 node oe of
ee eetan Hees His, the company Kd an extemely
iS LENE oar oe new $50ion procesing psa where Hog
“EE + Tae Emenons oF Cuocoure
vere bing mde. The pest ws sllowed 0 watch athe whit
‘oct sell heb nett
ow the ands wee sul bg manfred, Whe pe secs
a |the machinery to block the view. " *
eam more abou gy, psd fora interview wih one of
conde But Denis Elen was ote to speak Sout how
Hy cme ecg ee on lo i Ad
‘ower el prove were closely monitored by «Heat
officer who never left his side. ° nn
‘Uninatey worker the plnt—under condition of
condition of anonym
shure sine ft een He wns hep atic
such se deta but eves he ete hat by saing te
‘tisked losing his job. Sees
Te fc nt he people nervewed fr ths ook asked that
ents be protected ow tnd ti oon on sc corporat
pole ta rid them fom yeking to cues abowt tc ws
Aches ord her eae fo ean secon oe ncas
competition in the industry. =
“tsa rel bate zone out hte” Hea maceting exe
te. "No one wants oe Blamed fr shin cre wi she compet
anc funda hing oa ese and
eee nl Thaw da odes, bes ou
Hersey mangenentased o cooperate wth the wring of
wih the wing ofthis
tok on limited bass ony OF al qusion were channeled
Mog ame hin CHO Reha Zinman ier
nan Was arable o swe the compas pet eee oso
‘Stepped in, but repeated requests to interview other Her 4
serpin re ther Hey manages
en Henbey’ achivi, Pam Whitenack, whore
; ach whom jb i 0
thereon of Mon Her’ egacy and sha it outer os
Sent Hersey Foods maspemen nt she ay confidences
{alongs Whence & at employed by the cay company hr
‘employer, the M. S. Hershey Foundation, is owned by the trust that
Soe ono no Hey Fn) Wha Hr
ves exe nervosa having our ummasing
though he activa oleton a colecion ver whch the compan
ar no dice contol and cau
Eine det comrot—abd cauone ber repay o be eel of
Canoy Fron STuANGERS #23a
Janne
Pe ct ‘with Whitenack, I watched her
re Pireern sed pct, eh Sete ed
cieeengemnasrel eens
coon the vp mage ad in te St at Mars #0
oie
Breythint cok waded onthe New York Sock Esc
nt Scientia SP
esque Esl Po oer mates ly 10 ae #8
fess in gedit ose
fms’ dein |
poem
"rh gan
econ wth Mars
Foe ether one oft
Her
ha Henney shares, Bu outside ofthat, the com
nerview with Hershey almost 3s bad ating #9
ia Coline Mayer, reporter for The Wasnt
Crunch ak aowe
Mars and ts ety a0 cormments
im simply aot allowed to discs
“Sheehan hint of apology in his voce.
Seon” ag
i a ao fr iy yas mh NCA and
mane ta a
et Sra te fet
orate nce
seo eead I don't Blame the inury for beng puoi
one
monaco
ssid NCA spokesman Wilam
“Stadia companies ae
firmly in contol of the majority of
Tams groping to sind ox Keep
‘Connell. To increase potty
ba © Tne Envtaons oF CnocouaTe
firms must do one of two thingy: incest thee market share oe become
mote ecient than the competition, neither of which i easy,
The industry averages about 150 new products each year yet only 2
‘nana of those become popular enough o say onthe shelk Moreover,
‘most of the so-called new candies are merely variations on age-old
themes
“There's only so much you can do with chocolat, peanuts and
caramel—if you get my dif," O'Connel ti. "Besides, Americas are
so nostalgic about their andy bs, i's almost imponsble to gether to
teysomething new”
‘Mars an Hershey~—the Candy Kings 25 theyre known tise
can realy vest wo that. Take Mas's Bounty bi, for example In 1988,
Hershey tumed che andy world upside down when i unexpected
scquired the U.S. division of Peer Paul/Cadbury, maker of Mounds
‘Almond Joy and York Peppermint Pate. To compete with Hershey’s
‘ew muscle, Mars introduced the Bouny bar in 1989, a chocolat cov
‘red cocontc bar reminiscent of Mounds. But Bounty fled after just
fo yeas, even though every bind taste text Mare conducted showed
‘consimers prefered i210 1 ove the competition ”
“In the minds of Ameneant, coconst are mean jut ane things «
“Mounds or Almond Jy," id Lisbeth Echeand of Confectioner maga
‘ine, "Mar jst couldn’ get past that nostalgia.”
Troma Forrest Mar, Se, patriarch of he Mars amily empire, stole
Iii forthe Bounty tari the early 1950s kom Peter Pal Canis ©
“He snuroduced his vesion ofthe bar ia the United Kingdom and Can-
"sa where Pecce Paul did't operate. Bounty quickly became 4 major
" brabd, and today, Canadians wil el you Bounty i thir favorite coco-
bar They've never heard of Mounds
ic wast that Forrest Mars, Se, was 4 rogue ora ties he ws jus,
ficient Given the fie numberof avaible ingredients the Lin
fed understanding of scence and manufituring and the elively
Tange of consumer candy preferences, t made perce busines
‘oborrow hot selling prodt fom the competition, ser them
cic for Shoe was actually coped fom Heath inthe ealy
4 Nocwepln candy maker, Fre Marabou AS. When the
‘Gaaoy iron Sramanis 25gts to mance its
Heath company tefsed to give Hershey theo
pe for Shor,
tas Honey tuned to Marabou and purchase the £5
Tring the product fille."
ae fs jot one of hundreds of examples, Britains forte
cart bathe Mats bari, in ft, ght sweeter veron ofthe
Saaaaee ky Way, Amie’ Starburst Fruit Chews ae Brian's Opt
Pare pe Ki Kat bar inthe United Sates came from the Kit Kat bar
ee Belope The i goes on and on. General, he Key to cand sucess
ieee ar has not been in confctng smpruoas new teats, uti
Srning te product vo market before the competition
ee Rn developed a rly new candy, making Minor in the
process almost always dd it by accident.
aa, for example, wae invented in 1890 by a New England
oes hos wen making peanut fy inher Kishen, mistakenly
eating sadn insead of team of tartar tothe sup bubling on
c rin dhe Mies by a curios confectionet
a ne ua co his buterctch recipe in an effort ro improve the
Te tec nore mike added, the softer and creamier the burteracoth
rane etl soddeniy he ha invented a whole news confection
Taare long fr accidents like these to be copied by compet
toot sad ough ways confetioner actin a somewhat more gene,
cer uanner ype porchasing the fights to manure eck
ey candies copying ir sil common 1's jut Kep quiet.
seman eee now and agai,” sd O'Connell, x beeps 68
creeping nis face “OFcouse, ean" you who's been vee
but Pve heard tories”
Pe jor vy candy tends seem ro come and go all atthe same
inne eid 1980s was gummi. In the 1990s, anything our
rat Cepantion, of coure, that popular canes quickly wast
a pe ha dows’ expan hw thirty fren company lin
pa, guy fh nd gumany sakes
ue beaame the hot eandy color virally
1g wth hundreds of companies itoducing bse Foods atthe
1992 mation candy tradeshow in Washington, D.C
72 ue amity Sheehan ofthe NCA. “Buty realy Think
is ji colnedence. The tends ae jst obviows to everyone in the
sine.”
"ti Tlembey and eer candy compares sy they ant Be 100
tious Afra, bs aot aif dey can patent new candy be. They mast
vee Mme fom ousiers—and om thir om emplones 1
Fe «The Envevons oF Cnocouart
scheint ty em
Shc aeateyeaieer
acy ea cr aL
Soma ake Senet
a ace a
Pesce eater tensed
ere peied intl potential leaks.1* “ese
Fee gl ne ant
ene ee ee a
shel ott ecto becca
Dic ait eet
Pao e eae
fave to Know lt oe than tha” Like how the mks proceed
ate Sig tied snl
eee
‘real candy mysteries. And you can bet Hershey wi on
power to keep them mysterious. canes ee
Canoy tH0n SruANaces #27Mas, woo, goes ogres lengths o kept manaictring press
nee spay dens al of ove cany-maing machin
ras eap i tvs hung wth own quo of ng
a eS of our have et been alowed ine Mass
we sty nd, ae tov who fave met sgn consent
aaeeher tag they wl err Ste wa ty
To ele onan fo pacar role tise
onlin th en were ad ccrting them rough he lant
{Sikes in pion Ons pooner one
wo ied san and pole removed fom he remiss
an fy companies rp ned ahowgh some
wt re sens Nee hn al fem ae ry cone
Tei producr opens Tey dot se cy pis
Sra ra en cont age sunt of shel, Hke Mas
TS Hen, Nor ae they neta efit.
“hen ng kph compet ico
ae omslge ree tn 0 specaltcan dw can
ra ro of th beds inthe mie fe hea ses,
Siang comeence re
i Man wack dng redhead fom Otsoma
plains her Teton fr Vall, «gooey marshmallow filed choco-
fine cap made in Mersam, Kansas, by aman named scl Ses
“Manin once spent an entice Soturday ering around Kans,
ping a Quick ip afer Quikap in earch ofa many Bos f Vlo-
ful she coud ind
alr even bother to turnoff my truck. Tus hopped out, bout
‘what they had, and thew itn the back,” se sid ina fewer 0 the
candy mar.
"Shes gts ack of fn ml from Valo lovers around the country
‘One muatwrote of wing «box ofthe eff to propose to hs iin «
akan told of breaking up fly aquabbls by offering Valomik a
“one Ser kxows hi produc wl aver ive Hey o Mara.
‘eee money, but he's go is worshippers and sys tha salle nes
Tutn the ce of ever greater competion fom the bg boys, andthe
‘ponating coms of doing busines, hat may no longer be enough. fan-
“Fea of andy fers ikeSifer's have gone out of busines or been gob-
{led up bythe competition necen years. And the wend shows 0 sin
of abating
save lost a etre generation of candy products nus the ast >
decals” laments Ray Brock, an induszy itorian and sf described
‘ba. + Tw Enenons of Grocoustt
candy tr gr. i ering ro atch hem anh so i
Tt gives me the shivers.” *
Ftc prec npc, aks pice of Amen cle with
ic The When Scan fhe Ao Na Saar an Sie We
be ony fo of yay lores tha ena met, nd
eee ftow ser yee
en Coto, ret of Tse Rel ines se tft hat
Set company wal have pene og age hae nd fer
Send compen Giroan Men Gordon ot omne the soy of
enc Rall vung mocks
viene moked hr kxp mito” Goon exp “We
ase Tae to rein indepen, Hop er Cie,
Se etre ligne oy i be sn toe
“ota cay he Gordon ny he gone on 2 buying pe of
she own sng Warmer Lanter’ cosa cel son
ini, wich nce rd mse un in Sup Dey
Ghaeron Chow! a Sop Ba. In 191, Toe med
Ghus Coy Ameer gs lipp manic an ke of
Se Chaco low Fo.
“ce soto fed pce Toole among the let cn
cont
fen he nny potion he Goons ope il eye fn
‘rong ge competi at fu nce th ey
Cowpens pend he word ha Tweet be
e.
“ety omen ee oe Tas
s'il ured sv Oy ro aa een ek
the congas pester, dee Tow inpretre ery of
ings hoend ince’ Wal Stee ees Bane Tose
frie bho taping the fe aks de ef alow
Finn
“The company tee een” Ho Shang an ashe
ws'Tase Anthony, ney lend “They do net yd.
toc on caren pring cone: Three se eek eed
Un screed bt”
Gordon ample. "ee bay making Tote Rl,”
shen “he he ents cat dele ew he nent
emmy Anny hold we tml ely al enon to ot
tanner nee i”
eth Ean ea ht heuer of consist,
‘Canby Fon STRANGERS» 28)fewer than 150 candy companies willbe operating by the year 2010,
{Koen from 6000 firms atthe industry's pes ko 1945.8 The iis