3-1

SUSPENSION, STEERING GROUP

WHEELS AND TIRES 3
PART 3-1 Page PART 3-4 Page
SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS POWER STEERING 3-26
AND TIRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-1
PART 3-5
PART 3 - 2 WHEELS A N D TIRES 3-35
SUSPENSION 3-8
PART 3-6
PART 3 - 3 SPECIFICATIONS 3-39
MANUAL STEERING 3-16

PART SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS

3-1 AND TIRES GENERAL SERVICE

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Section Page Section Page
1 Diagnosis and Testing 3-1 3 Cleaning and Inspection . .3-7
2 Common Adjustments and Repairs 3-4

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

MANUAL STEERING 1. Check the power steering belt speed, turn the steering wheel from
tension, using tool T62L-8620-A. See stop to stop several times to distribute
Table 1 lists various steering trou- Part 3-6 for specified tension on new the dye solution throughout the hy-
ble symptoms and possible causes. and on used belts. draulic system. Do not hold the wheel
Several of these symptoms are also against each wheel stop more than 3
common to suspension, frame, and 2. If necessary, loosen the power
steering pump bracket adjusting bolt seconds. "
wheel and tire troubles. For this rea-
son, be sure that the cause of the and the pivot bolt. 3. Shut off the engine, and check
trouble is in the steering gear or link- 3. Increase or decrease tension as for leaks.
age before adjusting, repairing, or re- required by adjusting the pump posi- FITTING AND TUBE SEAT
placing any of the steering parts. tion. LEAK INSPECTION. Since most
4. Torque the adjusting bolt and fluid leaks occur at thefittingsand
the pivot bolt to specification, and connections in a power steering hy-
POWER STEERING
check the power steering belt tension. draulic system, these parts should be
PRELIMINARY TESTS Check Fluid Level. Start the en- checked before any other part is re-
The following preliminary checks gine, turn the steering wheel all the placed.
should always be made before per- way to the left and right several times, 1. With the engine running at idle
forming any trouble-shooting opera- and shut off the engine. speed, raise the car on a hoist.
tions. Check the fluid level in the reser- 2. Clean the outside of the control
Check Pump Belt. If the pump belt voir. If the level is low, add enough valve and the power cylinder, the bot-
is broken, glazed, or worn, replace it fluid (Part 3-4) to raise the level to a tom surfaces of the pump, and all
with a new belt. Use only the specified point VA inch from the top or to the lines and fittings. Dirt, oil, and grease
type of belt. F mark on the dip stick. Do not should be removed from all areas
Check the belt tension. If the belt is overfill the reservoir. where leaks may exist.
too loose or too tight, it should be
Check for Fluid Leaks 3. Tighten allfittings,using a spe-
adjusted to the proper tension. The
following procedure is for necessary 1. If the power steering fluid does cial 5-flat tube wrench. Do not tighten
adjustment. not already include yellowish green the fittings with a standard open end
Do not try to increase belt ten- dye, pre-mix one teaspoonful of oil- wrench. If a properly tightened fitting
sion pulling on the reservoir. soluble aniline dye with 2 pints of leaks, replace the seat.
In the following procedure, a "used automatic transmission fluid. Then re- PUMP, CONTROL VALVE,
belt" is one that has run ten min- fill the reservoir with the dye solution. AND POWER CYLINDER LEAK
utes or longer. 2. With the engine running at idle INSPECTION. If the fittings and
3-2 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, WHEELS AND TIRES

TABLE 1 —Trouble Symptoms and Possible Causes

Trouble Symptoms

Rear Suspension Misalignment (Dog Tracking)

Hard Steering and/or Loss of Power Assist

Steering and Suspension Noises

Hard Turning When Stationary

Normal or Irregular Tire Wear

Possible Causes
of

Binding or Poor Recovery

Shimmy or Wheel Tramp
Trouble Symptoms

Tire Squeal on Turns

Hard or Rough Ride

Side-to-Side Wander
Body Sway or Roll

Sag at One Wheel

Pull to One Side
Loose Steering
Jerky Steering

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Incorrect Tire Pressure X X X X X X X X x X X
Tire Sizes Not Uniform X X X X X X X
Overloaded or Unevenly Loaded Vehicle X X X X
Power Steering Fluid Level Low-Leak X X X X
Sagging or Broken Spring X X X X X X X X
Glazed, Loose or Broken Power Steering Pump Belt X X X X
Rear Spring Tie Bolt Off Center x X X
Broken Rear Spring Tie Bolts X X X X x X X
Rear Spring Front Hanger Mislocated X X X
Bent Spindle Arm X X X X
Bent Spindle X X X X
Lack of Lubrication X X X X X
Air in Power Steering System X x X
Obstruction in Power Steering Lines X X
Loose or Weak Shock Absorber x X x X X
Loose or Worn Suspension Arm Bushings X X X X

Binding Front Suspension Ball Joints or Steering Linkage X X X X

Loose, Worn, or Damaged Steering Linkage or Connections X X X X X X

Loose Steering Gear Mountings x x X X X X

Insufficient Steering Pump Pressure X X X

Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment X X X X X X X X X X

Incorrect Brake Adjustment X X X X

Incorrect Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment X X X X X X X

Wheel Out of Balance X x X X X

Incorrect Front Wheel Alignment X X X X X X X X

Out-of-Round Wheel or Brake Drum X X X

Frame or Underbody Out of Alignment X X X

Bent Rear Axle Housing X X X X

Excessive Wear of Steering Pump Internal Parts X

Steering Gear Valve Spool Binding or Out of Adjustment X X X

Obstruction Within Steering Gear X X X

connections do not leak, check the gasket. A worn or damaged stud PUMP LEAKS. Leakage may oc-
other parts of the system. gasket on the stud at the center of cur at the O-rings in the orifices at
the cover may also cause leakage. the top of the pump body. The reser-
PUMP RESERVOIR LEAKS. voir or adapter must be removed from
Leak points at the pump reservoir Check the hose connection at the the pump to replace these O-rings.
may be caused by an improperly in- reservoir for leaks, and tighten the
stalled cover or a defective cover hose clamp if necessary. Other pump leak points are the
 P A R T 3 - 1 -SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-3

shaft seal at the front of the pump, should also be coated with silicone ing wheel to the left and right several
the pump housing O-ring and the grease. times to warm the fluid.
other O-ring between the two halves Some oil remaining from the manu- 3. Attach a torque wrench to the
of the pump, and the relief valve re- facturing processes may be found in steering wheel hub (Fig. 1). Note the
tainer O-ring. Replace only the defec- the sleeve near the ball stud. Do not torque required to turn the wheel at
tive parts as required. least one complete revolution in both
confuse this oil with leaking fluid directions. See Part 3-6 for the speci-
CONTROL VALVE LEAKS. If from the hydraulic system. fied torque which should be approxi-
the control valve is leaking (some- POWER CYLINDER LEAKS. mately equal in both directions.
where other than the tube seats), re- The power cylinder may leak at the
place all the seals, using a con- piston rod seals. A power cylinder
trol valve seal kit. Use all applicable seal kit should be used to correct leak-
parts in the kit, and be sure they age. Do not replace the power cylin-
are correctly installed. When assem- der assembly unless the piston rod is
bling the new seals in the valve, scored or has a dull grayfinishinstead
an application of silicone grease to of a high luster chrome finish.
the internal parts will help to pro-
vide a better seal against future leak- Check Turning Effort. With the
age. Apply grease to the centering front wheels properly aligned and tire
spring area, especially on the cap pressures correct, check the effort re-
and spacer mating surfaces. Coat the quired to turn the steering wheel.
threads of the cap retaining bolts 1. With the car on dry concrete, set

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with grease. The rubber boot seals, the parking brakes.
the actuator assembly, and the Torque Wrench (In. Lbs.) G1214-A
2. With the engine warmed up and
metal cup seals in the control valve running at idle speed, turn the steer- FIG. 1—Checking Turning Effort

SECONDARY TESTS
If the steering wheel binds or sticks check the spool adjustment. If the
when turned, or if poor recovery to adjustment is correct, overhaul or re-
the straight-ahead position occurs, place the control valve,
check the Pitman arm ball stud in the Check the control valve travel regu-
control valve sleeve. If the ball stud is lator stop adjustment. If the stop is
rubbing against the edge of the sleeve drawn up too tightly, the ball stud
BINDING OR POOR slot, the roll pin may be missing. will bind in the seats. Adjust the stop
RECOVERY If either of the idler arm bushings as required,
is worn or damaged, replace both Check the control valve sleeve and
bushings. the socket tube for damage. Replace
Check the steering gear adjust- parts that show signs of damage, and
ments (Parts 3-1 and 3-3). adjust the travel regulator stop.
Check the operation of the control Check for possible interference be-
valve spool in the valve housing. If tween the steering wheel and the steer-
the spool is binding in the housing, ing column.
If the effort required to turn the tering spring adjustment. Adjust if
steering wheel is greater than normal required (Part 3-4).
for the entire travel of the front Check the control valve spool for
wheels, check the tire pressure, then movement. If the spool does not
test the fluid pressure. Be sure that move freely, check for, and elimi-
there are no leaks, that the reservoir nate, interference between the socket
is properly filled, and that the belt is tube and the valve sleeve. If the
properly adjusted. If the pump output spool is sticking in the housing, re-
pressure is low, the pump may be de- move the spool and check the spool
HARD STEERING fective and should be overhauled or lands for burrs. Small burrs may be
replaced. removed with crocus cloth if the
If the pressure test shows that the edges of the valve lands are not
trouble is in the control valve or rounded in the process. If the spool
power cylinder, remove and inspect cannot be repaired, replace the con-
these units. Repair or replace any trol valve,
damaged parts. Check the control valve ball stud
If the pressure test indicates that for free movement in the ball stud
the pressures throughout the system seats. If the stud is binding in the
are within specifications, check the seats, adjust the travel regulator stop,
following items in the order given: If the hard steer condition still exists,
Check the control valve spool cen- check the front wheel alignment.
CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
34 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

SECONDARY TESTS (Continued)

If excessive free play or lost mo- loose in the seats, adjust the control
tion is noticed when steering, check valve travel regulator stop,
the steering gear worm and ball nut Check the control valve centering
s rin
mesh adjustment. P S adjustment, if the spring ad-
EXCESSIVE FREE PLAY justing nut is loose, tighten the nut
Check for excessive clearance be- u n t ii i t i s snug, and then back off the
tween the steering arm ball stud and nut not more than VA turn. Excessive
the ball stud seats. If the ball stud is tightening may damage the stop pin.

Check the pump belt tension. A Noise may result if the specified
loose or glazed belt can cause belt h o s e is n o t u s e dor if it is improperly
squeal A glazed belt, even when r Q u t e d Jf n o i s e g t m e x i s t § ^ ^
NOISE properly adjusted, may slip. .
Excessive torque at the pressure specified hose installed, the pump
line joints may distort the tube seats should be removed from the car and
and cause leaks. inspected.

A loose pump belt can cause chat- mounting nut torque. Replace the
ter against the wheel stops during an bushings if worn. Torque the nut to
extremely sharp turn. Check the belt specification,
tension, and adjust it to specifications Check the power cylinder piston

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STEERING CHATTER if necessary. rod insulators for looseness. If the
Check for looseness in the idler insulators are worn, replace them. If
arm rod connection. Looseness at the mounting nut is loose, torque it
this point may be due to worn to specification, and torque the lock-
mounting bushings or improper nut to specification.

Check the control valve spool cen- tightening may damage the stop pin.
tering spring adjustment. If the ad- Check for looseness between the
RATTLES justment is loose, tighten the nut un- control valve ball stud and the ball
til snug, and then back off the nut stud seats. If the stud is loose in the
not more than XA turn. Excessive seats, adjust the travel regulator stop.

Check the entire system for dam- Operate the piston by hand to check
age, replacing parts as necessary. Re- for resistance to movement. If the
place or tighten a broken or loose piston moves easily with little or no
pump belt. resistance, the internal parts of the
Test the fluid pressure to deter- power cylinder are broken or dam-
mine whether the trouble is in the aged. Replace the power cylinder,
pump, the control valve, or the Maladjustment of the control
LOSS OF POWER ASSIST power cylinder. valve spool centering spring can
If the pressure test indicates that cause a loss of left turn power assist,
the pump is at fault, remove and Check the adjustment, and readjust
overhaul the pump. if necessary. Replace all defective
If the pressure test indicates that parts,
the control valve or power cylinder Check the operation of the control
is at fault, check as follows: valve check valve. If the check valve
Disconnect the power cylinder pis- does not operate freely, replace the
ton rod from the idler arm bracket. check valve assembly.

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

FLUID PRESSURE TEST stall the pressure testing tool between idle speed. If the pump normally
A fluid pressure test will show the hose and the pump outlet (Fig. operates quietly, ignore the louder
whether the pump or some other unit 2). Be sure that the pressure gauge pump noise when the pressure testing
in the power steering system is caus- is between the pump and the shut-off tool is connected to the system. Al-
ing trouble in the system. valve on the tool. low at least two minutes for the fluid
1. Disconnect the pressure line 2. Open the shut-off valve on the to warm up before starting the pres-
i. uisconneci me pressure line x. wpen me snui-on vaive on me
sure tests.
hose from the pump outlet, and in- testing tool, and run the engine at
 P A R T 3 - 1 -SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES GENERAL SERVICE 35

PUMP OUTLET PRESSURE LINE EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

Equipment used for front wheel
alignment inspection must be accu-
rate. If portable equipment is being
used, perform all inspection opera-
tions on a level floor.
1. Drive the car in a straight line
far enough to establish the straight-
ahead position of the front wheels,
and then mark the steefing wheel
hub and the steering column collar
(Fig. 3). Do not adjust the steering
wheel spoke position at this time. If
the front wheels are turned at any
time during the inspection, align the
marks to bring the wheels back to
the straight-ahead position.
2. Install the wheel alignment
equipment on the car. Whichever
type of equipment is used, follow
the installation and inspection in-
structions provided by the equipment
manufacturer.

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CASTER
Tool-T56l-33610-D Shut-off Val Check the caster angle at each
G1059-B front wheel.
FIG. 2—Pressure Testing Tool Installed
The caster is the forward or rear-
ward tilt of the top of the wheel
spindle. If the spindle tilts to the
3. Turn the front wheels all the to eliminate the trouble in the rear, caster is positive. If the spindle
way to the right and then to the left, system. tilts to the front, caster is negative.
noting the fluid pressure reading on The correct caster angle, or tilt, is
the gauge when each wheel is against FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT — Vi ° to + Vz °. The maximum dif-
its stop. Normal fluid pressure at CHECKS ference between both front wheel
both positions for a car with a 352 caster angles should not exceed Vi°.
or 390 C.I.D. V-8 engine is 950- Do not attempt to check and ad-
However, a difference of not more
1100 psi. Normal pressure for a car just front wheel alignment without than VA ° is preferred.
with the Mileage Maker six or the first making a preliminary inspection
289 C.I.D. engine is 750-900 psi. of the front-end parts.
CAMBER
Do not hold a wheel against its stop Check all the factors of front
for more than 3 seconds at a time wheel alignment except toe-out on Check the camber angle at each
because the fluid may overheat. turns before making any adjust- front wheel.
ments. Toe-out on turns should be Camber is the amount the front
4. If the fluid pressure, with a checked only after caster, camber, wheels are tilted at the top. If a
wheel against its stop, is less than and toe-in have been adjusted to wheel tilts outward, camber is posi-
950 psi (or 750 psi) turn the wheel specifications. tive. If a wheel tilts inward, camber
off the stop. Slowly close the testing is negative. The correct camber
angle, or outward (positive) tilt, is
tool shut-off valve, and watch the -\-VA° to +1°. The maximum differ-
gauge for an increase in pressure. Do ence between both front wheel cam-
not leave the valve closed for more ber angles should not exceed + Vi °.
than 3 seconds. However, a difference of not more
than VA ° is preferred.
5. If the fluid pressure, with the
shut-off valve fully closed, still shows TOE-IN
less than 950 psi (or 750 psi), the Check the toe-in with the front
pump is causing the trouble. If the wheels in the straight-ahead posi-
pressure increases to normal pres- tion. Run the engine so that the
sure range, the trouble is in either power steering control valve will be
the control valve or power cylinder. in the center (neutral) position.
Measure the distance between the
6. After the fluid pressure test is extreme front and also between the
complete, shut off the engine and re- ALIGNMENT MARKS G1215-A
extreme rear of both front wheels.
move the pressure testing tool. Make FIG. 3—Straight Ahead Position The difference between these two
the necessary repairs or replacements Marks distances is the toe-in.
3-6 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

Correct toe-in, or inward pointing CASTER ADJUSTMENT—REMOVE OR

of both front wheels at the front, is INSTALL SHIMS AT SPINDLE ARM SPINDLE CONNECTING ROD
EITHER FRONT OR
Vs to VA inch. REAR BOLT
CAMBER ADJUSTMENT REMOVE OR
FRONT WHEEL INSTALL EQUAL SHIM
TURNING ANGLE ADJUSTING THICKNESSES AT
SHIM STACK BOTH BOLTS
After caster, camber, and toe-in
have been adjusted to specifications,
check the turning angle.
The turning angle of an outside
wheel should be 17° 30' with Power
Steering and 17° 21' with manual SLEEVE
steering when the inside wheel is F1O36-I
turned 20°. If this angle is not correct, F I G . 6—Spindle Connecting Rod
the spindle arm is probably bent and Sleeve
should be replaced. MAXIMUM DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SHIM
After front wheel alignment fac- STACK THICKNESSES- i/ 8 INCH equal shims at both bolts will move
tors have been checked, make the MAXIMUM THICKNESS AT EACH SHIM
necessary adjustments. Do not at- STACK- % INCH F1061A the ball joint outward. A %e inch
tempt to adjust front wheel align- F I G . 4—Caster and Camber change of shim thickness at both
ment by bending the suspension or bolts will change the camber angle
Adjustments VA°. The total shim stack thickness
steering parts.
at each bolt should not exceed 5/s

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between the shim stack thicknesses at
the two bolts should not exceed Vs inch (Fig. 4).
CASTER AND CAMBER
ADJUSTMENTS inch.
Caster and camber can be adjusted CAMBER
by removing or installing shims be- TOE-IN AND STEERING WHEEL
To adjust camber, remove or in- SPOKE POSITION
tween the inner shaft of the front stall equal shim thicknesses at both
suspension upper arm and the bolts (Fig. 4). ADJUSTMENTS
mounting bracket on the frame in The removal of equal shims at
the engine compartment. The adjust- both bolts will move the upper ball Check the steering wheel spoke
ing shims (Fig. 4) are located on the joint inward. The installation of position when the front wheels are
fender side of the bracket. in the straight-ahead position. If the
Both caster and camber adjust- Torque Wrench spokes are not in their normal posi-
ments can be made at the same time tion, they can be properly adjusted
by loosening the nuts on the two while toe-in is being adjusted.
bolts that fasten the inner shaft to
the mounting bracket. Use the tool 1. Loosen the two clamp bolts on
shown in Fig. 5. After the required
shims have been removed or in- each spindle connecting rod sleeve
stalled, torque the nuts to specifica- (Fig. 6).
tions, using the tool shown in Fig. 5.
To obtain this torque, turn the nut 2. Adjust toe-in. If the steering
until 50 ft-lbs is shown. The wrench wheels spokes are in their normal
and the tool must stay in line (as position, lengthen or shorten both
shown) during the tightening opera- rods equally to obtain correct toe-in
tion. Caster and camber adjusting (Fig. 7). If the steering wheel spokes
shims are available in ^2-inch and are not in their normal position,
Vs-inch thicknesses. make the necessary rod adjustments
to obtain correct toe-in and steering
CASTER wheel spoke alignment (Fig. 8).
To adjust caster, remove or install ARM-TO-FRAME Tool-T58P-3047-A
shims at either the front bolt or the RETAINING NUT F1060-A
rear bolt (Fig. 4). FIG. 5-lnner Shaft Retaining Nut
The removal of shims at the front
bolt or the installation of shims at TURN DOWNWARD TO TURN TURN UPWARD TO
INCREASE ROD LENGTH TURN UPWARD DOWNWARD INCREASE ROD LENGTH
the rear bolt will cause the upper TO DECREASE TO DECREASE
ball joint to move forward. The re- ROD LENGTH ROD LENGTH
moval of shims at the rear bolt or
the installation of shims at the front
bolt will cause the ball joint to move
rearward. A %6-inch change of shim LEFT-HAND SLEEVE RIGHT-HAND SLEEVE F1037-B
thickness at either bolt will change
the caster angle V20. The difference FIG. 7—Spindle Connecting Rod Adjustments
 P A R T 3 - 1 -SUSPENSION, ING, WHEELS AND TIRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-7

3. Recheck toe-in and the steering WHEN TOE-IN IS CORRECT: TURN BOTH
TURN BOTH CONNECTING CONNECTING ROD
wheel spoke position. If toe-in is ROD SLEEVES UPWARD SLEEVES D O W N W A R D
correct and the steering wheel spokes TO ADJUST SPOKE TO ADJUST SPOKE
POSITION POSITION
are still not in their normal position,
turn both connecting rod sleeves up-
ward or downward the same number
of turns to move the steering wheel
spokes (Fig. 7).
4. When toe-in and the steering
wheel spoke position are both cor-
rect, torque the clamp bolts on both
connecting rod sleeves to 11-14 ft-
lbs. If the car is equipped with power WHEN TOE-IN IS
steering, both bolts on the left sleeve NOT CORRECT:
should be in a vertical position on LENGTHEN LEFT ROD TO SHORTEN LEFT ROD TO
INCREASE TOE-IN DECREASE TOE-IN
the forward side of the sleeve to
SHORTEN RIGHT ROD TO LENGTHEN RIGHT ROD
prevent interference with the control DECREASE TOE-IN TO INCREASE TOE-IN
valve. The sleeve position should not
be changed when the clamp bolts are ADJUST BOTH RODS EQUALLY TO MAINTAIN NORMAL SPOKE POSITION F1O38-B
tightened. FIG. 8-Toe-in and Steering Wheel Spoke Adjustments

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CLEANING AND INSPECTION
FRONT END GENERAL 3. Check the steering gear mount- WHEEL INSPECTION
INSPECTION ings and all steering linkage connec-
tions for looseness. Torque all Wheel hub nuts should be inspect-
Do not check and adjust front mountings to specifications. If any of ed and tightened to specification at
wheel alignment without first mak- the linkage is worn or bent, replace pre-delivery. Loose wheel hub nuts
ing the following inspection for the parts as outlined in Part 3-3. may cause shimmy and vibration.
front-end maladjustment, damage, or Elongated stud holes in the wheels
4. Check the front wheel bearings. may also result from loose hub nuts.
wear.
If any in-and-out free play is noticed,
1. Check for specified air pres- adjust the bearings to specifications. Keep the wheels and hubs clean.
sures in all four tires. Replace worn or damaged bearings Stones wedged between the wheel
as outlined in Part 3-5. and drum and lumps of mud or
2. Raise the front of the car off grease can unbalance a wheel and
the floor. Shake each front wheel 5. Spin each front wheel with a tire.
grasping the upper and lower sur- wheel spinner, and check and bal-
ance each wheel as required. Check for damage that would af-
faces of the tire. Check the front
fect the runout of the wheels. Wob-
suspension ball joints and mountings 6. Check the action of the shock
for looseness, wear, and damage. absorbers. If the shock absorbers are ble or shimmy caused by a damaged
Check the brake backing plate mount- not in good condition, the car may wheel will eventually damage the
ings. Torque all loose nuts and bolts not settle in a normal, level position, wheel bearings. Inspect the wheel
to specifications. Replace all worn and front wheel alignment may be rims for dents that could permit air
parts as outlined in Part 3-2. affected. to leak from the tires.
3-8

PART SUSPENSION
3-2
Section Page Section Page
1 Description and Operation 3-8 3 Removal and Installation 3-11
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs 3-10 4 Major Repair Operations 3-13

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

FRONT SUSPENSION assemblies to move up and down axle shaft flange. The wheel and axle
with changes in road surface. The shaft assembly rotates in the rear
Each front wheels rotates on a swiveling ball joints also permit the axle housing. Two spring pads, inte-
spindle. The upper and lower ends spindles and wheels to be turned to gral with the axle housing, rest on
of the spindle are attached to upper the left or right by the steering gear two leaf-type springs. The axle hous-
and lower ball joints which are and linkage. ing is fastened to the springs by
mounted to an upper and lower arm The pivoting action of the suspen-
respectively. The upper arm pivots spring clips (U-bolts), spring clip
sion arms provides an up and down plates, and nuts (Fig. 2). Each spring
on a bushing and shaft assembly

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movement for the spindles and is suspended from a frame side rail
which is bolted to the frame. The wheels as required by bumps or de-
lower arm pivots on two studs, one by a hanger at the front and a shackle
pressions in the road surface. The at the rear. The upper end of each
being located in the front crossmem- coil springs and shock absorbers con-
ber and the other in the No. 2 cross- shock absorber is mounted to a
trol this up and down movement. frame crossmember the lower end is
member (Fig. 1). A coil spring seats The stabilizer bar (Fig. 1) is attached
between the lower arm and the top mounted to the spring pad at the axle
to each lower arm to dampen road housing.
of the spring housing. A double act- shocks and minimize road sway.
ing shock absorber is bolted to the The springs and shock absorbers
arm and the top of the spring provide for up and down movement
housing. REAR SUSPENSION of the rear axle and wheels as re-
The swiveling action of the ball Each rear wheel, hub and brake quired by changes in the road sur-
joints allows the wheel and spindle drum assembly is bolted to the rear face. They also cushion road shocks.

UPPER ARM

UPPER BALL JOINT

INNER SHAFT

BRAKE DRUM

OUTER BEARING
SPRING

GREASE CAP

NUT LOCK

WASHER

INNER BEARING ADJUSTING NUT

G1216-A

F I G . 1 —Front Suspension
 P A R T 3 - 2 - SUSPENSION 3-9

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OIL SEAL

WHEEL BEARING

OUTER RETAINER

BRAKE DRUM

G1217-A

F I G . 2—Rear Suspension
3-10 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

UPPER BALL JOINT sion bumper. Torque the nut to spec- 7. Using the tool shown in Fig. 4,
REPLACEMENT—ARM IN CAR ification. torque the nuts to specification. To
11. Position the ball joint stud in attain this torque with the special
1. Raise the car high enough to the spindle bore, and torque the re- tool, turn the nut until 50 ft-lbs is
provide working space, and place a taining nut to specification. Install a shown. The wrench and the tool
support under the lower arm. If a new cotter pin. must stay in line (as shown) during
chain hoist or a jack that has a nar- the tightening operation.
row contact pad is to be used on the 12. Install the wheel and tire.
bumper to raise the car, distribute 13. Remove the safety stands, and 8. Install the wheel and tire, and
the load along the bumper by using lower the car. lower the car.
a steel plate 3 or 4 inches long as a 14. Check and, if necessary, ad- 9. Check and, if necessary, adjust
contact pad to prevent damaging the just caster, camber, and toe-in. caster, camber, and toe-in.
bumper. Whenever any part of the front sus-
2. Remove the wheel and tire. pension has been removed and in- LOWER BALL JOINT
3. Drill a Vs-inch hole through stalled, front wheel alignment must REPLACEMENT—ARM IN CAR
each upper ball joint retaining rivet. be checked.
1. Raise the car high enough to
Using a large chisel, cut off the provide working space, leaving the
rivets. INNER SHAFT A N D / O R
BUSHING REPLACEMENT—ARM lower arm free to drop as coil spring
4. Remove the upper arm suspen- tension is eased. If a chain hoist or a
sion bumper. IN CAR
jack that has a narrow contact pad
5. Remove the cotter pin and nut

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1. Raise the car to provide work- is to be used on the bumper to raise
from the upper ball joint stud. ing space, and remove the wheel and the car, distribute the load along the
6. Place a box wrench over the tire as a unit. bumper by using a steel plate 3 or 4
lower end of the ball joint remover 2. After noting the number and inches long as a contact pad to pre-
tool, and position the tool as in Fig. location of the adjusting shims, use vent damaging the bumper.
3. The tool should seat firmly against the tool shown in Fig. 4, to remove 2. If the ball joint is riveted to the
the ends of both studs, and not the inner shaft retaining nuts, bolts, arm, drill a Vs-inch pilot hole com-
against the lower stud nut. washers, and shims. pletely through each rivet. Then drill
7. Turn the wrench until both 3. Swing the upper arm upward off the rivet head through the pilot
studs are under tension, and then, and outward to provide working hole with a %-inch drill, and drive
with a hammer, tap the spindle near space. out both rivets.
the upper stud to loosen the stud 4. Remove the 2 bushings and the 3. Position a jack or safety stand
from the spindle. Do not loosen the inner shaft. under the lower arm, and lower the
stud with tool pressure alone. Re- car about 6 inches to offset the coil
move the ball joint. 5. Install the new inner shaft.
Lubricate the bushings. spring tension.
8. Clean the end of the arm, and 6. Swing the arm back to its nor- 4. Remove the cotter pin from
remove all burrs from the hole edges. mal position, and partially install the the ball joint stud, and remove the
Check for cracks in the metal at the inner shaft retaining bolts, shims, nut.
holes, and replace the arm if it is washers, and nuts. 5. Place a box wrench over the
cracked. lower end of the tool shown in Fig.
9. Attach the new ball joint to the Torque Wrench 3, and position the tool. The tool
upper arm. Use only the specified should seat firmly against the end of
bolts, nuts, and washers. Do not rivet both studs, and not against the upper
the new ball joints to the arm. stud nut.
Torque the nuts to specification. 6. Turn the wrench until both
10. Install the upper arm suspen- studs are under tension, and then,
with a hammer, tap the spindle near
Tool-T57P-3006-A the lower stud to loosen the stud
from the spindle. Do not loosen the
stud with tool pressure alone. Re-
move the ball joint.
7. Clean the end of the arm, and
remove all burrs from the hole edges.
Check for cracks in the metal at the
holes, and replace the arm if it is
cracked.
8. Position the stud of the ball
joint to the spindle bore, and install
ARM-TO-FRAME
RETAINING NUT
Tool-T58P-3047-A the retaining nut finger-tight.
F1060-A
9. Attach the ball joint to the
FIG. 3—Disconnecting Upper FIG. 4-lnstalling Inner Shaft lower arm. Use only the specified
Ball Joint Attaching Nut bolts, nuts, and washers. Do not rivet
 PART 3-2-SUSPENSION 3-11

the new ball joint to the arm. Torque STABILIZER REPAIR 4. Remove the link-to-lower arm
the nuts to specification. retaining nut, washers, and insula-
To replace the end bushings on
10. Torque the ball joint stud nut each stabilizer link, use the following tors, and remove the link from the
to specification, and install a new procedure. arm.
cotter pin. 1. Raise the car on a hoist. 5. Assemble the link and new
11. Remove the jack. 2. Remove the link-to-stabilizer washers and insulators to the lower
bar retaining nut, washers, and insu- arm, then install the link-to-lower
12. Check and, if necessary, ad- lators, and disconnect the link from arm retaining nut.
just caster, camber, and toe-in. the bar (Fig. 1).
Whenever any part of the front sus- 6. Connect the link to the bar
3. Remove the link-to-lower arm with new washers and insulators and
pension has been removed and in- retaining nut, washers, and insula-
stalled, front wheel alignment must secure with the retaining nut.
tors, and disconnect the link from
be checked. the bar (Fig. 1). 7. Lower the car.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

INNER SHAFT A N D / O R 5. Remove the cotter pin from
BUSHING REPLACEMENT—ARM the nut on the lower ball joint stud,
REMOVED and loosen the nut one or two turns.

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Do not remove the nut from the stud
Always replace both upper arm at this time.
bushings if either bushing is worn or
6. Straighten the cotter pin on the
damaged, and install only new bush-
upper ball joint stud nut, place a box
ings when replacing the shaft.
wrench over the lower end of the
1. Remove the bushings from the ball joint remover tool, and install
shaft and arm. the tool between the upper and lower
2. Install the new bushings, using ball joint studs (Fig. 1). The tool
the tool shown in Fig. 5. Lubricate should seat firmly against the ends
the bushings. The arm must be ex- of both studs and not against the
actly centered, and the tool should stud nuts.
be left in place until after the bush- F1O65-A
7. Turn the wrench until the tool
ings have been torqued to specifica- F I G . 7—Lowering or Raising
places the studs under tension, and
tion. Position the bushings carefully Lower Arm
tap the spindle near the lower stud
to avoid damaging the O-rings inside
with a hammer to loosen the stud in
the bushings.
the spindle. Do not loosen the stud 10. Apply foot pressure to the
in the spindle with tool pressure only. lower suspension arm to push the
LOWER ARM AND COIL If both arms are being removed, arm inward so that the spring and
SPRING REPLACEMENT loosen the upper stud in the same insulator assembly may be lifted
1. Raise the car so that the front manner as the lower stud. from the car (Fig. 8).
wheels are about 8 inches off the 8. Place a jack under the lower 11. Remove the lower arm retain-
floor, and place supports under both arm at approximately a 60° angle ing bolts, washers, and shims, and
frame side members just back of the away from the wheel and toward the remove the arm from the car. Note
lower arms. center of the car. Hook the saddle
2. Remove the wheel and tire as- of the jack over the outer edge of
sembly. the spring seat (Fig. 6).
3. Disconnect the stabilizer as- 9. Remove the nut from the lower
sembly. ball joint stud, and slowly lower the
arm until the spring is fully extended
4. Disconnect the lower end of
(Fig. 7).
the shock absorber, and push it up to
the retracted position.

BUSHING Tool-T58P-3044-A BUSHING

fCS^fc F1063-A
F1139-A
F1066-A
F I G . 5—Installing Upper Arm F I G . 8—Removing or Installing
Inner Shaft Bushing FIG. 6—Supporting Lower Arm Coil Spring
3-12 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

the respective front and rear posi- ing bolts and nut to specification. Press Ram
tions of the 2 different retaining The lower arm should be in a nor-
bolts. mal load position when the retaining
12. Mount the lower arm to the bolts and nut are tightened.
frame crossmembers. Insert the large 19. Expand the shock absorber,
diameter bolt from the rear side of and connect it to the arm.
the rear crossmember and through 20. Connect the stabilizer assem-
the arm. Position the insulator and bly with the car weight on the wheel
washers on the small retaining bolt to insure correct seating of the rub-
and turn the small bolt into the in- ber insulator.
ternal threads of the large diameter
bolt. Do not tighten. 21. Install the wheel and tire as-
Install the forward bolt from the sembly.
front side of the front crossmember 22. Check and, if necessary, ad- Tool-T54P-3044-A7 F1069-A
with sufficient shims between the just caster, camber, and toe-in. FIG. 1 1 —Installing Lower Arm
crossmember and arm to prevent for- Whenever any part of the front Bushing
ward and backward movement of the suspension has been removed and in-
arm. Install the insulator, washer, stalled, front wheel alignment must 3. Install the ball joint on the arm.
and retaining nut on the bolt but do be checked. Use only the specified bolts, nuts and
not tighten.
washers. Do not attempt to rivet the
13. Tape the insulator (and shim LOWER ARM BUSHING new ball joint to the arm.
assembly if so equipped) to the top REPLACEMENT 4. Torque the nut on the suspen-
of the coil spring. Position the insu- sion arm bumper to specification.

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lator and spring in the upper suspen- Always replace both lower arm
bushings if either bushing is worn or Torque the ball joint retaining nuts
sion arm spring pocket, and hook the and bolts to specification.
lower end over the edge of the lower damaged.
arm pocket by applying foot pressure 1. Position the bushing remover
inward on the lower arm (Fig. 8). tools (Fig. 10) and press both bush- FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE
The spring coil end must be seated ings out of the arm. REPLACEMENT
correctly in the lower pocket. 2. Press new bushings into the 1. Raise the car until the front
14. Position the jack directly be- arm with the tools shown in Fig. 11. wheel clears the floor, and place a
hind the lower arm at approximately The bushing flanges must be at the support under the lower arm. Mark
a 60° angle away from the wheel inner sides of the lower arm. the steering wheel straight ahead
and toward the center of the car. position.
Push the jack outboard as the arm LOWER BALL JOINT 2. Back off the brake adjustment,
is raised to align the ball stud with REPLACEMENT—ARM REMOVED and remove the wheel, hub, and
the spindle bore (Fig. 9). drum as an assembly.
15. Apply downward pressure on 1. Remove the ball joint from the 3. Remove the mounting bolt at
the top of the wheel to permit the arm. If the ball joint is riveted to the the anchor pin and the two lower
ball joint shoulder to slip over the arm, drill a Vs-inch pilot hole com- mounting bolts and nuts, then dis-
edge of the bore into position. pletely through each rivet, and then mount the brake backing plate assem-
drill off the rivet head through the bly from the spindle. Support the
16. Torque the lower ball joint pilot hole with a %-inch drill. Drive
nut to specification, and remove the plate to prevent damage to the brake
jack. all rivets out of the holes. hose.
17. Install the lower ball joint re- 2. Clean the end of the arm, and 4. Disconnect the spindle connect-
taining nut cotter pin, and bend the remove all burrs from the hole edges. ing rod end from the spindle arm
upper ball joint retaining nut cotter Check for cracks in the metal at the with tool CJ 89-1.
pin. holes, and replace the arm if it is 5. Remove the cotter pins from
cracked. both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen
18. Torque the lower arm retain-
the nuts one or two turns. Do not
Press Ram remove the nuts from the studs at
Tool- this time.
T54P-3044-A13
6. Place a box wrench over the
lower end of the ball joint remover
tool, and install the tool between the
upper and lower ball joint studs (Fig.
3). The tool should seat firmly against
the ends of both studs and not against
the stud nuts.
7. Turn the wrench until the tool
places the studs under tension, and,
F1140-A Tool-T57P-3044-A F1O68-A with a hammer, tap the spindle near
the studs to loosen them in the spin-
FIG. 9-Migning Ball Stud with FIG. 10—Removing Lower Arm dle. Do not loosen the studs in the
Spindle Bore Bushing spindle with tool pressure only.
 PART 3-2-SUSPENSION 3-13

8. Remove both ball joint stud nuts until the cotter pin holes and shoe anchor pin bolt to specifica-
nuts, raise the upper suspension arm, slots line up. Install new cotter pins. tions. Torque the lower bolts to
and remove the spindle from both 11. Connect the spindle connect-
studs. specifications.
ing rod end to the spindle arm. In-
13. Install the wheel, hub, and
9. Position the spindle on both stall the retaining nut, torque to
ball joint studs and install both stud specification, and install the cotter drum assembly, and adjust the wheel
nuts. pin. bearings and brakes.
10. Torque the stud nuts to speci- 12. Install the brake backing plate 14. Check and, if necessary, ad-
fication. Continue to tighten both on the spindle, and torque the brake just caster, camber, and toe-in.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

SHOCK ABSORBERS FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER LOWER MOUNTING BUSHING
REPLACEMENT
Passenger cars and station wagons
are equipped with hydraulic shock 1. Raise the front of the car and
absorbers of the direct-acting type place supports under both suspension
and are nonadjustable and nonrefill- lower arms. Be sure that the lower
able, and cannot be repaired. end of the shock absorber remains
Before replacing a shock absorber, accessible for servicing.
check the action of the shock ab- 2. Remove the retaining nut,

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sorbers by grasping the bumper and washer, and rubber bushing from the
jouncing the car up and down. If the upper end of the shock absorber
shock absorbers are in good condi- shaft (Fig. 12).
tion the car will immediately settle to 3. Remove one lower bushing
a normal position after the bumper mounting bolt and loosen the other
is released. If the car continues to (Fig. 13). Slide the bushing assembly
jounce, or remains displaced, remove off the loosened bolt, then lower the
the shock absorbers for further test- shock absorber through the hole in
ing. If the shock absorber shows signs the suspension arm.
of oil leakage, replace it. 4. If the shock absorber is service-
able and the bushing requires replac-
TESTING ing, remove the old bushing from the
lower end of the shock absorber
To check a shock absorber re- (Fig. 14).
moved from a car proceed as follows: MOUNTING BOLTS F1135-A
5. Apply RUGLYDE or a com-
1. Hold the shock absorber in the
F I G . 13-Front Shock Absorber
vertical position with the piston
(lower end) up, and pull out the pis- Lower Mounting
ton and rod until the shock is ex-
tended to its full length. parable lubricant to the replacement
2. With the shock absorber held bushing, and install the bushing on
in the same position, push in the the shock absorber (Fig. 15) with
piston and rod until the shock is one quick drive of the press ram.
compressed to its shortest length. 6. Place the inner washer and
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 several bushing on the shock absorber shaft.
times until all the air is expelled. Expel all air by performing steps 1
4. Clamp the lower end (small di- and 2 under "Testing." Extend the
ameter) in a vise in a vertical position. shock absorber and install it through
5. Extend the shock to its full the hole in the lower arm and
length and then compress it to its through the coil spring so that the
shortest length. There should be a shaft will go through the hole in the
constant drag during the complete upper mounting bracket. Be sure the
cycle. Any sudden loss of drag indi- mounting bracket is free of burrs.
cates air in the system or faulty in-
7. Install the upper bushing and
ternal valve operation. Replace de-
fective shock absorbers. the outer washer on the shaft, and
torque the nut to specification (Fig.
12).
SHOCK ABSORBER
REPLACEMENT 8. Torque the lower mounting
BUSHING WASHER F1134-A bolts to specification (Fig. 13).
The front and rear shock absorb-
ers are nonadjustable and nonrefill- F I G . 12-Front Shock Absorber For information on frames, refer
able, and cannot be repaired. Upper Mounting to Part 13-1.
3-14 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

rear spring tie bolt head which is not SHOCK ABSORBER TIE BOLT SPRING CLIP
Press Ram centered in the locating hole of the
spring mounting pad on the axle
housing (Fig. 17). To determine
whether or not this bolt is off-center,
measure the distance "A" (Fig 18)
between a locating hole common to
both frame side rails and the for-
ward edge of the axle housing. This
hole is in the outboard side of the
rails and to the rear of the rear
spring front hanger bracket. Dimen-
sion "A" should be the same, within
Vs inch, on both sides of the car.
To center the tie bolt, take the
following steps:
1. Loosen the four spring clip
nuts.
SPRING CUP NUTS F1133-A
Tool- 2. With a jack, push or pull the
T57P-18201-A5 housing into position. FIG. 17-Rear Spring and
3. While there is jack pressure, Spring Clips
F1054-A move the spring clip into line, with
FIG. 14-Removing Front Shock the new position of the housing. edge of the rear spring front stud.

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Absorber Bushing 4. Torque the spring clip nuts to This hole is in the outboard side of
specifications. the rail to the rear of the rear spring
REAR SUSPENSION front hanger bracket. Dimension "B"
5. Recheck the distance between should be the same, within Vs inch,
ALIGNMENT CHECK front and rear tire imprints, and on both sides of the car.
Suspected misalignment or "dog adjust further if necessary.
If necessary, replace the hanger
tracking" of front and rear wheel REAR SPRING FRONT bracket as follows:
treads should be checked. Drive the HANGER REPLACEMENT 1. Raise the car on a frame hoist
car straight ahead on a section of or a jack so that the axle assembly
pavement, part of which is wet, and To determine if the rear spring
front hanger should be replaced, can be lowered.
stop about ten feet beyond the wet
area. If alignment is correct, the rear measure the distance "B" (Fig. 18) 2. Disconnect the lower end of
tire imprints will appear an equal between a locating hole common to the rear shock absorber from the
distance inside the front tire tracks both frame side rails and the leading spring clip plate.
(Fig. 16). 3. Disconnect the parking brake
cable at the equalizer, and disconnect
TIE BOLT OFF CENTER the cable rear retaining clip from the
Misalignment may result from a FRONT WHEELS frame crossmember on the side being
reworked.
Press Ram
4. Remove the rear spring front
hanger stud, and lower the forward
end of the spring to allow removal of
INSTALL " — " - Too/- the hanger bracket.
BUSHING T57P-18201-A1
WITH ONE 5. Remove the hanger bracket by
QUICK DRIVE cutting the top and bottom flange
OF PRESS loose from the center portion with a
RAM Too/-
T57P-18201-A4 cutting torch. Bend the center sec-
tion until free of the frame welds,
and then remove. Bend the top and
bottom flanges up and down until
they break free of the welds.
6. Burn the old welds off the

REAR WHEELS

1
ESS
1
Tool-
T57P-1820T-A5
I
K-
I
K
I i
F1O55-A F1070-A F1071-A
FIG. 15—Installing Front Shock FIG. 16—Suspension Alignment FIG. 18-Rear Spring Hanger
Absorber Bushing Check Alignment Check
 PART 3 - 2 - SUSPENSION 3-15

frame at the lower flange, and grind 3. Disconnect the lower end of 2. Remove the self-locking nut
the weld areas smooth. the shock absorber from the spring and washer that retains the upper
7. Cut off approximately Vs inch clip plate (Fig. 17). end of the shock absorber to the
from the edge of the upper flange on 4. Remove the spring clip nuts, mounting stud on the crossmember.
the new spring hanger to allow clear- the clips, and the spring clip plate. Compress the shock absorber to
ance for the original weld on the top clear the hole in the spring clip
5. Remove the front hanger stud plate, and remove the assembly from
of the frame.
from the forward end of the spring the mounting stud.
8. Elongate the rear spring front (Fig. 19).
hanger bracket center bolt hole in 3. If the shock absorber is serv-
the frame (both sides of frame chan- 6. Remove the shackle from the
shackle hanger and spring, and re- iceable, replace the rubber bushings
nel) with a rotary file to provide in the eye of the shock absorber.
clearance for positioning of the new move the spring from the car.
bracket. 7. Position the new spring under 4. Expel all air by performing
9. Locate and tack-weld the new the rear axle. The shorter end of the steps 1 and 2 under "Testing."
bracket on the frame. Use the same spring between the center tie bolt
and the spring eye should be toward 5. Place the inner washer and the
hole in the frame side rail that was shock absorber on the mounting
used to check alignment originally. the front of the car.
stud, then install the outer washer
The bracket must be plumb and in 8. Install the shackle and shackle and self-locking nut (snug).
proper position before final welding. hanger, leaving the lock nuts finger-
Use mild steel rod and arc welding tight. 6. Extend the shock absorber, and
equipment. locate the lower stud in the hole in
9. Install the front hanger stud in
10. Reposition the rear spring in the spring and hanger, and torque the spring clip plate with washers

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the bracket. the lock nut to specifications. and new rubber bushings. Install the
lower retaining nut and torque to
11. Install the rear spring front 10. Torque the shackle lock nuts specification.
hanger stud and nut, and torque to to specifications.
specifications. 7. Torque the self-locking nut on
11. Install the spring clips, plate
12. Recheck the rear axle align- and clip nuts. Be sure that all parts the upper mounting stud to speci-
ment, using the frame holes. are properly seated on the spring fication.
13. Connect the lower end of the and rear axle.
shock absorber. 12. Torque the clip nuts to speci- SHOCK FRAME

14. Connect the parking brake fication. Do not exceed the maxi- ABSORBER
cable and lower the car. mum torque because the rear wheel
camber may be affected.
REAR SPRING REPLACEMENT 13. Connect the lower end of the
shock absorber to the rear spring
1. Raise the car until the rear clip plate.
wheels clear the floor, and place sup-
ports under the car frame and the 14. Connect the parking brake
rear axle. cable spring to the inner spring clip.
2. Disconnect the parking brake
cable spring from the inner spring REAR SPRING INSPECTION
clip. AND REPAIR
Inspect the rubber bushings,
HANGER STUD SPRING HANGER shackle and studs, and hanger and
stud, for wear or damage. Replace
parts where necessary.
Check for broken spring leaves.
Inspect the anti-squeak inserts be-
tween the leaves, and replace them
if they are worn. The spring leaves
must be dry and free of oil and dirt
before new inserts are installed.
Inspect the spring clips for worn
or damaged threads. Check the
spring clip plates for distortion.

REAR SHOCK ABSORBER

REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the nut that retains
REAR SPRING F1073-A
the shock absorber assembly to the
spring clip plate, and remove the RUBBER BUSHINGS WASHERS F1136-A
F I G . 19—Rear Spring Front lower washer and rubber bushing
Hanger (Fig. 20). F I G . 2 0 - R e a r Shock Absorber
3-16

PART MANUAL STEERING

3-3
Section Page Section Page
1 Description 3-16 4 Major Repair Operations .3-22
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs 3-16 5 Steering Linkage Repair .3-23
3 Removal and Installation 3-21

DESCRIPTION
The steering gear (Fig. 1) is of
the worm and recirculating ball type.
SECTOR GEAR
SECTOR SHAFT STEERING SHAFT BEARING The sector shaft rotates in needle
ADJUSTING
SCREW
ADJUSTER LOCK NUT bearings that are pressed into the
gear housing.
SHIM The worm bearing preload is con-
trolled by the large adjusting nut

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which is threaded into the housing.
The sector shaft mesh load is con-
trolled by an adjusting screw located
in the housing cover.
The steering linkage consists of
the Pitman arm, steering-arm-to-idler
arm rod, idler arm and the spindle
connecting rods (tie rods).
STEERING SHAFT A steering gear identification tag
BEARING ADJUSTER is provided under one of the cover
attaching bolts (Fig. 2).
UPPER STEERING STEERING GEAR SERVICE IDENTIFICATION
SHAFT BEARING MODEL CODE NUMBER

BALL RETURN
LOWER STEERING GUIDE CLAMP
SHAFT BEARING CUP

SECTOR SHAFT
BEARING
SERIAL NUMBER OR DATE CODE
G1218-A
G1026-B FIG. 2-Steering Gear
F I G . 1 -Recirculating BaU Type Steering Gear Identification Tag

IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

STEERING W O R M AND ments within the recirculating ball- 2. Loosen the nut which locks
SECTOR GEAR ADJUSTMENTS type steering gear, and these should the sector adjusting screw (Fig. 3),
The ball nut assembly and the be made in the following order to and turn the adjusting screw counter-
sector gear must be adjusted properly avoid damage or gear failure. clockwise.
to maintain minimum steering shaft 1. Disconnect the Pitman arm 3. Measure the worm bearing pre-
end play (a factor of preload adjust- from the steering arm-to-idler arm load by attaching an inch-pound
ment) and minimum backlash be- rod. On a car with power steering, torque wrench to the steering wheel
tween sector gear and ball nut. disconnect the arm from the control nut (Fig. 4). With the steering wheel
There are only two possible adjust- valve ball stud (Fig. 19). off center, read the pull required to
 P A R T 3-3-MANUAL STEERING 3-17

SECTOR SHAFT tion, and recheck the backlash ad- 2. Disconnect the transmission
ADJUSTING SCREW
justment. control (shift) rods from the column
9. Connect the Pitman arm to shift levers. This does not apply to
the steering arm-to-idler arm rod. Ford 500XL Models.
On a car with power steering, con- 3. Disconnect the turn signal
nect the arm to the control valve wires and the shift quadrant wires
ball stud. (automatic transmission only) at their
STEERING WHEEL SPOKE
connectors.
POSITION ADJUSTMENT 4. Remove the steering wheel. In-
stall the nut back on the shaft to
When the steering gear is on the prevent the shaft from slipping out
high point, the front wheels should of the column.
be in the straight-ahead position and 5. Slide the rubber grommet (Fig.
the steering wheel spokes should be 6) up the tube approximately three
in their normal position with the inches.
FILLER PLUG LOCK NUT G1039-D Pitman arm pointing directly for-
ward. If the spokes are not in their 6. Remove the escutcheon plate-
F I G . 3—Steering Gear Adjustment to-dash attaching screws. Remove
normal position, they can be ad-
justed without disturbing the toe-in the two screws that attach the two
rotate the input shaft approximately adjustment (Part 3-1). halves of the escutcheon plate and
1V2 turns either side of center. If the remove them from the column.
torque or preload is not within STEERING WHEEL 7. Remove the two bolts, lock
specification (Part 5-1), adjust as REPLACEMENT washers and flat washers that secure
explained in the next step. 1. Remove the horn ring (or the column to the instrument panel.

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4. Loosen the steering shaft bear- button) assembly and related parts. 8. Lift the column from the car.
ing adjuster lock nut, and tighten 2. Remove the nut from the end
or back off the bearing adjuster (Fig. of the steering shaft, and remove MOVABLE COLUMN
3) to bring the preload within the the steering wheel from the shaft, 1. Remove the bolt that secures
specified limits. using the tool shown in (Fig. 5). the flex coupling to the upper steer-
5. Tighten the steering shaft bear- 3. With the front wheels straight ing shaft (Fig. 7).
ing adjuster lock nut, and recheck forward, position the steering wheel 2. Remove the three bolts that
the preload. on the steering shaft with the spokes attach the column mounting plate to
6. Turn the steering wheel slowly properly centered and the alignment the steering gear.
to either stop. Turn gently against marks on both parts properly 3. Disconnect the selector lever
the stop to avoid possible damage to aligned.
from the rod. This does not apply
the ball return guides. Then rotate 4. Install the steering wheel nut
on the shaft, torque to specifications, to XL500 Models.
the wheel 23A turns to center the 4. Remove the steering wheel.
ball nut. and stake the nut.
5. Install the horn ring (or but- Install the steering wheel nut to pre-
7. Turn the sector adjusting screw ton) assembly and related parts. vent the shaft from slipping out.
clockwise until the specified pull 5. Disconnect the turn signal,
(Part 5-1) is necessary to rotate the STEERING COLUMN shift quadrant and neutral safety
worm past its center (high spot) REMOVAL switch wires at the connectors.
(Fig. 4). No perceptible backlash is STATIONARY COLUMN 6. Remove the screws that attach
permissible at 30° on either side of 1. Working from the engine com- the escutcheon plate to the dash
center. partment, remove the two bolts, lock panel.
$. While holding the sector ad- washers, guides, and bushings that 7. Unhook the cover retaining
justing screw, tighten the sector ad- attach theflexcoupling to the steering spring from the instrument panel
justing screw locknut to specifica- shaft flange. (Fig. 6). cover (Fig. 7).
8. Remove the two bolts that at-
tach the steering column to the
track. Support the column while re-
moving these bolts.
9. Lift the steering column from
the car.

STEERING COLUMN
INSTALLATION
STATIONARY COLUMN
1. Hold the column in place align-
ing the flex coupling dowls with the
flange on the upper steering shaft.
Install, but do not tighten, the bolts,
G1219-A
lock washers, and flat washers that
orque Wrench (In. Lbs.) G1214-A Tool-3600-AA
attach the column to the instrument
F I G . 4-Checking Preload F I G . 5—Removing Steering Wheel panel. (Fig. 6).
3-18 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

STANDARD AND
OVERDRIVE TRANSMISSIONS

ESCUTCHEON PLATE
LEFT SIDE

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AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION G1220-A

FIG. 6—Steering Column Installation—Stationary Column
2. Position the dust seal and es- MOVABLE COLUMN gear attaching bolts to specifications.
cutcheon plate on the dash panel. 6. Install the flex coupling-to-
Install the attaching screws. Install 1. Install the locating spacer on
the sliding track as shown in Fig. 8. upper steering shaft bolt.
the two screws that secure the es- 7. Connect and adjust the trans-
cutcheon plates together. 2. Hold the column in position
with the column mounting plate rest- mission control rod.
3. Slide the rubber grommet down ing on the steering gear and the 8. Tighten the track-to-column
the column until it contacts the upper steering shaft entered in the attaching bolts being careful not to
escutcheon plates. flex coupling gear. Install, but, do create a bind in the track.
4. Connect the turn signal wires not tighten the steering column-to- 9. Remove the locating spacer
and the shift quadrant wires (auto- track attaching bolts (Fig. 7). (Fig. 8), from the track.
matic transmission only) at their 10. Install the cover-to-steering
connectors. 3. Secure the dust seal and the
escutcheon plate to the dash panel column retaining spring (Fig. 7).
5. Secure the flex joint with the with the attaching screws. 11. Install the steering wheel.
bushings, guides, washers, and bolts. 4. Connect the turn signal, neu-
6. Connect and adjust the shift tral safety switch, and the shift STEERING COLUMN UPPER
linkage. quadrant wires to their respective BEARING REPLACEMENT
7. Tighten the steering column- connectors. STATIONARY COLUMN
to-instrument panel attaching bolts. 5. Install and torque the three 1. Remove the steering column
8. Install the steering wheel. column mounting plate-to-steering from the car as detailed on page 3-17.
 P A R T 3-3-MANUAL STEERING 3-19

TRACK-TO-COWL BRACE

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SHIFT LEVER

VB*/
G1221-A
FIG. 7—Steering Column Installaton—Movable Column

2. Remove the three screws that the shaft out the lower end of the switch lever. Secure the retainer to
attach the upper bearing retainer column. the hub with three screws. Install
to the hub (Fig. 9) and remove the the quadrant light if so equipped.
retainer. 6. Remove the bearing from the
hub as shown in Fig. 10. 11. Slide the upper steering shaft
3. Remove the screw that secures into the steering column until the
the quadrant light to the hub (auto- 7. Remove the rubber insulator C-washer on the shaft seats against
matic transmission only). from the bearing. the bearing.
4. Remove the turn signal switch 8. Install the insulator on the new 12. Install the column in the car
lever, then lift the turn signal switch bearing. as detailed on page 3-17.
and the quadrant lamp from hub.
9. Press the bearing into place MOVABLE COLUMN
5. Remove the steering wheel nut
and upper bearing spring. Tap on the in the hub. 1. Remove the bolt that secures
top of the shaft with a soft hammer 10. Install the turn signal switch the upper shaft to the flex coupling
to remove it from the bearing. Slide and retainer. Install the turn signal (Fig. 11).
3-20 G R O U P 3-SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

RIGHT STOP out of the column. the hub, position the shift quadrant
7. Remove the bearing from the light in the hub and secure it with
MOVE BRACKET the attaching screw.
AGAINST RIGHT STOP
shaft. Separate the insulator from
the bearing. 11. Position the turn signal switch
8. Install the insulator on the new and retainer in place and secure
bearing. Seat the new bearing against them with the three attaching screws.
the C-washer on the shaft. Install the turn signal switch lever.
9. Install the shaft and bearing 12. Install the spring and steer-
in the column, making sure that the ing wheel on the column.
flat on the shaft is in alignment with 13. Secure the upper shaft to the
the bolt hole in the flex coupling. flex coupling with the attaching bolt.
10. With the shaft entered in the 14. Check the operation of the
Locater Spacer coupling and the bearing seated in turn signals.
C4AZ-3C734-A G1182-A

FIG. 8—Removing or Installing

Locating Spacer Tool-T58L-101-A
Tool-T59L-100-B

2. Remove the steering wheel and

spring.
3. Remove the three attaching
screws from the turn signal switch

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and upper bearing retainer. Remove
the retainer.
4. Remove the screw that secures
the shift quadrant light to the
column and remove the light. UPPER BEARING

5. Remove the turn signal switch

lever, then carefully lift the turn
signal switch off the shaft.
6. Thread the steering wheel at-
taching nut on the shaft. Grasp the G1223-A
nut and pull the shaft and bearing F I G . 10—Removing Steering Column Upper Bearing

C-WASHER UPPER SHAFT

TURN SIGNAL
SWITCH
NYLON BUSHING

CENTERING WASHER
UPPER BEARING
BEARING INSULATOR

G1222-A
F I G . 9—Steering Column Disassembled (Stationary)
 PART 3-3-MANUAL STEERING 3-21

SHIFT TUBE

SHIFT LEVER HUB

NYLON
BUSHING

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UPPER SHAFT

NUT
SHIFT QUADRANT

G1224-A
F I G . 1 1 —Steering Column Disassembled (Movable)

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

PIVOT BRACKET STEERING
BOLTS PIVOT BOLT COLUMN STEERING GEAR gear. Torque the mounting bolts to
specification.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the steering column 2. With the wheels straight ahead,
bracket bolts (Fig. 12) if the car is connect the Pitman arm to the sec-
equipped with a movable column. tor shaft.
2. Remove the bolt that attaches 3. If necessary, connect the
the flex joint to the steering gear. muffler inlet pipe.
3. Raise the front of the car and 4. Install the steering column
install safety stands. bracket bolts, and torque to speci-
4. Disconnect the Pitman arm fications.
from the sector shaft.
5. Remove the steering gear filler
5. If necessary, disconnect the plug and housing lower cover bolt.
muffler inlet pipe. After turning the steering wheel to
6. Remove the steering gear hous- the left to move the ball nut away
ing attaching bolts, and remove the from the filler hole, fill the steering
steering gear. gear with the correct lubricant. Fill
FLEX JOINT
the gear until lubrication comes out
PIVOT BRACKET INSTALLATION of the housing cover lower bolt hole.
STEERING GEAR HOUSING -.,-- „
Oil OO"D 1. With the steering wheel spokes Install the filler plug and the cover
F I G . 12-Movable Column-to- aligned and the sector shaft in the bolt. Torque the bolt to specifica-
center position, install the steering tion.
Steering Gear Connector
3-22 G R O U P 3-SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

STEERING GEAR
DISASSEMBLY Press Ram

1. Rotate the steering shaft 2%

turns from either stop.
2. After removing the sector ad- Jool-
justing screw locknut and the hous- T58L-3576-A SPLINE TO RIGHT
NARROW END OF OF BALL NUT
ing cover bolts, remove the sector
TAPER FACING D O W N G1227-A
shaft with the cover. Remove the
cover from the shaft by turning the FIG. 16—Ball Nut Position on
screw clockwise. Keep the shim with STEERING GEAR
Shaft
HOUSING
the screw.
3. Loosen the worm bearing ad- 2. Install a bearing cup in the
juster nut, and remove the adjuster lower end of the housing and in the
assembly and the steering shaft adjuster.
upper bearing. 3. If the seal in the bearing ad-
4. Carefully pull the steering shaft juster was removed, install a new
and ball nut from the housing, and seal.
remove the steering shaft lower bear- 4. Lay the steering shaft on a
ing. To avoid possible damage to bench, with the splined end to the
the ball return guides, keep the ball right. Slide the ball nut on the shaft
nut from running down to either

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as shown in Fig. 16. Align the
end of the worm. grooves in the worm and in the ball
Disassemble the ball nut only if nut by sighting through the ball
there is indication of binding or guide holes.
tightness. G1040-A 5. Divide the balls into two
5. Remove the ball return guide FIG. 14-Removing Sector Shaft groups of 27 each. Pack 2 ball re-
clamp and the ball return guides Bearing turn guides with lubricant and place
from the ball nut. Keep the ball nut 9 balls into each guide. Place the
clampside up until ready to remove other 2 guide halves on the ones
Press Ram
the balls. that are loaded with balls.
6. Turn the ball nut over, and 6. Drop 18 balls into one circuit.
rotate the worm shaft from side to It will be necessary to oscillate the
Tool-T58L-3548-A
side until all 54 balls have dropped worm shaft slightly to circulate the
out of the nut into a clean pan. With balls.
the balls removed, the ball nut will 7. Push the guide into the guide
slide off the worm. holes of the ball nut, tapping lightly
Remove the caged needle bear- with the wooden handle of a screw-
ings only if preliminary inspection driver if necessary.
shows damage. 8. Load the second circuit in the
7. Remove the upper bearing cup ball nut in the same manner and
from the bearing adjuster and the install the ball return guide clamp
lower cup from the housing. It may and screw. Torque the screw to
be necessary to tap the housing or specification. Check the worm shaft
the adjuster on a block of wood to make sure that it rotates freely.
(Fig. 13). 9. Coat the threads of the steer-
8. Press out both sector shaft ing shaft bearing adjuster, the hous-
needle bearing assemblies and oil ing cover bolts, and the sector ad-
seal from the housing (Fig. 14). justing screw with a suitable oil-
resistant sealing compound. Do not
apply sealer to female threads, and
especially avoid getting any sealer
G1041-A on the steering shaft bearings.
FIG. 15-lnstalling Sector Shaft 10. Coat the worm bearings, sec-
Bearing tor shaft bearings, and gear teeth
with steering gear lubricant.
STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY 11. Clamp the housing in a vise,
1. If the sector shaft bearings with the sector shaft axis horizontal,
Wood Block
and oil seal have been removed, and position the steering shaft lower
press new bearing assemblies into bearing in its cup.
G1226-A
the housing (Fig. 15). Apply the 12. Position the steering shaft
F I G . 13—Removing Bearing Cup recommended steering gear lubri- and ball nut assemblies in the hous-
from Housing cant to the bearings. ing.
 P A R T 3-3-MANUAL STEERING 3-23

13. Position the steering shaft inch, add enough shims to reduce 19. With the housing cover turned
upper bearing on the top of the the end play to within the 0.002 out of the way fill the gear with 0.7
worm, and install the steering shaft tolerance. lbs. ± .07 of gear lubricant. Push
bearing adjuster and the adjuster 16. Start the sector shaft adjust- the housing cover and sector shaft
nut and bearing cup. Leave the nut ing screw into the housing cover. assemblies into place, and install the
loose. two top housing cover bolts. Do not
17. Install a new gasket on the tighten the cover bolts until it is cer-
14. Adjust the worm bearing pre- housing cover. tain that there is some lash between
load, using an inch-pound torque 18. Apply enough gear lubricant ball nut and sector gear teeth.
wrench. See Part 3-6 for the speci- to fill the pocket in the housing be- Torque the bolts to specification.
fied preload. tween the sector shaft bearings (ap-
15. Position the sector adjusting proximately 30% full). Rotate the 20. After loosely installing the
screw and adjuster shim, and check steering shaft until the ball nut sector shaft adjusting screw lock
the end clearance which should not teeth are in position to mesh with nut, adjust the sector shaft mesh
exceed 0.002 inch between the screw the sector gear, tilting the housing load. See Part 3-6 for the specified
head and the end of the sector shaft. so that the ball nut will tip toward mesh load, then tighten the adjusting
If clearance is greater than 0.002 the housing cover opening. screw lock nut.

STEERING LINKAGE REPAIR

The manual steering linkage (Fig. 2. Loosen the connecting rod nut. Torque the nut to specification

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17) consists of the Pitman arm, the sleeve clamp bolts, and remove the and install the cotter pin.
steering arm-to-idler arm rod, the rod end from the spindle arm, using 6. Check and, if necessary, adjust
steering idler arm, and the spindle the tool shown in Fig. 19. toe-in. Be sure to tighten the sleeve
connecting rods (tie rods). 3. Remove the rod end from the clamp bolts after toe-in is checked
SPINDLE CONNECTING ROD sleeve. Discard all rod end parts and adjusted. If the car has power
END REPLACEMENT that were removed from the sleeve. steering, be sure that there is no
The spindle connecting rod ends, All new parts should be used when interference between the sleeve bolts
which are threaded into the outer a spindle connecting rod end is re- and the control valve.
ends of the rod sleeves, have non- placed.
adjustable ball studs. A rod end 4. Thread a new end into the SPINDLE CONNECTING
should be replaced when excessive sleeve, but do not tighten the sleeve ROD REPLACEMENT
looseness at the ball stud is noticed. clamp bolts at this time. A spindle connecting rod should
1. Raise the end and install safety 5. Install the seal on the rod end be replaced if it becomes worn or
stands. Remove the cotter pin and ball stud, insert the stud in the spin- damaged. Do not attempt to
nut from the rod end ball (Fig. 18). dle arm hole, and install the stud straighten a bent rod.
PITMAN ARM STEERING ARM-TO-IDLER ARM ROD IDLER ARM AND BRACKET

SLEEVE SPINDLE CONNECTING RODS CONNECTING ROD END G1O62-C

FIG. 17-Steering Linkage Installed
3-24 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

SPINDLE

SPINDLE
SEAL NJ CONNECTING RODS

CONNECTING
ROD END

SPINDLE

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BUSHING-

\ \

/ i
IDLER ARM
SLEEVE V
.'..{'I '\/ CONNEaiNG ROD
END

G1079-A

FIG. 18-Steering Linkage Disassembled

1. Remove the cotter pin and nut clamp bolts after toe-in is checked
which attach the spindle connecting and adjusted. If the car has power
rod ball stud to the steering arm to steering, be sure that there is no
idler arm rod (Fig. 18). Remove the interference between the sleeve bolts
ball stud from the rod, using the and the control valve.
tool shown in Fig. 3. Be careful
not to loosen or bend any other parts
on the steering arm to idler arm rod. STEERING ARM-TO-IDLER
2. Loosen the connecting rod ARM ROD REPLACEMENT
sleeve clamp bolts, and remove the
Replace the steering arm-to-idler Tool—3290-C G1082-B
rod from the sleeve.
arm rod if it is bent or if the ball FIG. 19-Removing Ball Stud
3. Thread a new connecting rod joint is worn. Do not try to straight-
into the sleeve, but do not tighten en a bent rod. ball studs from the rod, using the
the sleeve clamp bolts at this time. same tool. Remove the rod.
1. Remove the nuts from the ball
4. With the seal properly posi- stud at the Pitman arm and from 4. Install a new bushing in the
tioned install the connecting rod ball the idler arm. replacement steering arm-to-idler
stud in the steering arm-to-idler arm arm rod, using tool T61P-3355-A.
rod, and install the nut on the ball 2. Remove the nuts from the spin- Properly position the three ball stud
stud. Torque the nut to specification. dle connecting rod ball studs. seals.
Install a new cotter pin. 3. Remove the ball stud from the 5. Position the rod on the idler
5. Check and, if necessary, adjust Pitman arm, using the tool shown in arm and the Pitman arm. Torque the
toe-in. Be sure to tighten the sleeve Fig. 19. Remove the connecting rod idler arm nut and the ball stud nut
 P A R T 3-3-MANUAL STEERING 3-25

to specifications. Install new cotter

CLAMP BRACKET
POSITION Cup DEEP IN Vise AND IN Vise pins.
AGAINST SIDE FACE
6. Install the spindle connecting
rod ball studs, and torque the stud
nuts to specification. Install new
Detail 3
cotter pins.
7. Check and, if necessary, adjust
LOCATE BRACKET AGAINST Cup LIP
the toe-in.
BRACKET BUSHING REMOVAL Detail 4
STEERING IDLER ARM
BUSHING REPLACEMENT

If an idler arm bushing is worn,

replace both idler arm bushings.
1. Remove the bushing retaining
nuts from the idler arm.
2. Remove the idler arm bracket.
3. Remove the bushing from the

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bracket, using tool T61P-3355-A
(Fig. 20).
4. Remove the bushing from the
steering arm-to-idler arm rod, using
tool T61P-3355-A.
5. Install new bushings in the rod
STEERING ROD and in the bracket, using tool T61P-
BUSHING 3355-A.
INSTALLATION
6. Position the idler arm, and
STEERING ROD torque the retaining nuts to specifica-
BUSHING
REMOVAL tion. Install new cotter pins. When
installing the idler arm, be sure that
Too/-r67P-3355-A G1142-A the linkage is in the straight-ahead
F I G . 20—Replacing Idler Arm Bushing position.
3-26

PART POWER STEERING

3-4
Section Page Section Page
1 Description 3-26 3 Removal and Installation 3-28
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs 3-28 4 Major Repair Operations 3-30

| | DESCRIPTION
Master - Guide Power Steering pressure developed by the pump. If the direction of the force on
(Fig. 1) is a hydraulically controlled When the front wheels are in the the steering wheel is reversed, the
linkage-type steering system which straight-ahead position, the control front wheels will return to the
includes a fluid reservoir and pump, valve spool is held in the center straight forward position. Or as
a control valve, a power cylinder, (neutral) position by its centering force on the steering wheel falls be-
the connecting fluid lines, and the spring. Fluid then flows around the low about 4 pounds, the valve spool
steering linkage. The roll-type hy- valve lands and returns to the reser- centering spring forces the spool
draulic pump, belt-driven from the voir (Fig. 2). Within the control back to the center position where
engine crankshaft, draws fluid from valve body there is a reaction limit- the pressure on both sides of the
the reservoir and provides fluid ing valve which reduces parking power cylinder piston is equal. With
pressure for the system. Within the effort.

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normal forward driving movement
pump itself is a pressure-relief valve When a force of about 4 pounds of the car and in the absence of
which governs the pressures within is exerted on the steering wheel for operative pressure within the power
the steering system according to the a left turn, the valve spool over- cylinder, the front wheels will seek
varying conditions of operation. comes the force of the centering to return to the straight ahead posi-
After fluid has passed from the spring and moves toward the right- tion. This is a normal effect of the
pump to the control valve and the hand end of the valve. As a result, front wheel alignment and action of
power cylinder, it returns to the pressure is exerted on the right side the torsion type bushings in the idler
reservoir. of the power cylinder piston, and arm. For a right turn, the directional
The control valve, operated by fluid in the left end of the cylinder forces explained above are reversed
steering wheel movement, directs the returns to the reservoir (Fig. 2). (Fig. 2).

POWER CYLINDER

CONTROL VALVE

PUMP AND RESERVOIR

G1O27-C
F I G . 1 —Power Steering System
 P A R T 3-4-POWER STEERING 3-27

FLUID FLOW—STRAIGHT-AHEAD DRIVING

CONTROL VALVE
POWER CYLINDER P U M P PRESSURE
§3
l
RETURN PRESSURE

FLUID FLOW-LEFT TURN

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CHECK VALVE

w (IN CONTROL HOUSING)

RESERVOIR

P U M P PRESSURE
CONTROL VALVE

RETURN PRESSURE

R E A C T I O N PRESSURE

FLUID FLOW-RIGHT TURN

/. CHECK VALVE
, J (IN CONTROL HOUSING)
It
/'

uf==)~ POWER CYLINDER P U M P PRESSURE

CONTROL VALVE
RETURN PRESSURE

R E A C T I O N PRESSURE

G1037-B
FIG. 2—Fluid Flow Diagram
3-28 G R O U P 3-SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

If, for any reason, the pump fails engines and air conditioning.) When plunger of the control valve to move
to deliver fluid pressure, the car may the steering linkage stops are con- the bellcrank linkage; thus, the prop-
be steered without pump pressure. tacted, the output of the pump be- er engine idle speed is maintained.
An idle speed control valve (Fig. comes maximum and the maximum Refer to the engine specification sec-
3) eliminates the problem of the en- pressure is directed to the control tion of this manual for the proper
gine stalling when the driver parks valve. engine idle speeds.
the car. (Ford only with 289 cu. in. The maximum pressure causes the

IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

PUMP BELT TENSION 2. To adjust the belt, loosen the 3. On a remote mounted reser-
ADJUSTMENT pump pivot and adjusting bolts to voir, lift the hold-down spring, wash-
Pump drive belt tension cannot be allow movement of the bracket in ers and the filter element from the
checked accurately using the thumb its adjusting slot. Move the pump reservoir. The hold-down spring and
pressure or belt deflection methods. as required, and snugly tighten the washers are removed with the cover
Correct belt adjustment is assured bolts. Do not move the pump by on pump mounted reservoir.
only with the use of a belt tension lifting or pulling on the reservoir. 4. Wipe the reservoir clean with
gauge of the type similar to the one 3. Recheck the belt tension. a lint-free cloth.
shown in Fig. 3. When the tension has been correct- 5. Position a new filter unit on
1. Check the belt tension with a ly adjusted, tighten the bolts to 20-25 the seat (Fig. 4).
gauge as shown in Fig. 3. With a ft. lbs. torque. 6. Cement (M2G14-A cement) a
new belt, or one that has been run new cover gasket around the inside
FILTER REPLACEMENT of the cover.

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for less than ten minutes, the ten-
sion should be within 120-150 lbs. 1. Remove the cover from the 7. On a remote mounted reser-
With a belt that has been run for power steering reservoir. voir, position the retaining washer
more than ten minutes, the tension 2. Remove the fluid with a suc- and the hold-down spring on the
should be within 90-120 lbs. tion gun. filter element. Place the cover and
washer over the stud and install the
wing nut until flush with the top of
the stud.
Install the cover, pump mounted
reservoir spring and hold-down
washer assembly.
8. Fill the reservoir and check for
leaks.
SPEED-UP CONTROL 9. Start the engine and turn the
vehicle right and left several times.
10. Recheck the fluid level and
replenish the fluid as required.
11. Install the cover.

Tool—T63L-8620-A
or BT-33-73F

G1228-A G1190-A

FIG. 3—Power Steering Idle Speed Control Valve FIG. 4—Fluid Reservoir

Q REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

STEERING GEAR POWER STEERING PUMP fluid as possible from the reservoir.
2. Disconnect the two hoses at the
Refer to Part 3-3, Section 3 for REMOVAL pump, and fasten them in a raised
detailed Removal and Installation in- 1. Remove the reservoir cover. position to prevent fluid from drain-
structions. With a suction gun, remove as much ing out.
 P A R T 3-4-POWER STEERING 3-29

3. Loosen and remove the pump VALVE 3. Measure the distance between
belt. Tool-3290-C BALL STUD PITMAN ARM the center of the grease plug in the
4. Remove the pivot bolt and the sleeve and the center of the stud at
adjusting bolt, and lift out the pump, the inner end of the left-hand spin-
reservoir, and bracket or pump dle connecting rod (Fig. 6). Be sure
bracket or adapter on cars equipped that the measurement is taken paral-
with air conditioning. lel to the centerline of the control
valve. The distance should be H15/i6
INSTALLATION inches. If the distance is not cor-
1. Position the pump, reservoir rect, disconnect the ball stud from
and bracket or pump bracket and the sector shaft arm and turn the
adapter assembly in the engine com- valve on the steering arm-to-idler
partment, and install the mounting arm rod to increase or decrease the
bolts finger tight. distance.
2. Position the pump belt, and 4. When the correct distance is
check the alignment of the crank- F I G . 5—Removing Control Valve obtained and the ball stud is posi-
shaft and pump pulleys. If the pul- tioned in the sector shaft arm, align
Ball Stud the hole in the steering arm to idler
leys are not aligned, the pump may
be incorrectly installed, or spacers arm rod with the slot near the end
front wheels to the left and right of the valve sleeve. Install the roll
may be necessary. several times to force the fluid from pin in the rod hole to lock the valve
3. Adjust the belt tension (Sec- the system. in position on the rod.
tion 2). 2. Loosen the clamping nut and 5. Torque the valve sleeve clamp
4. Connect the two hoses at the bolt at the right end of the sleeve.

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bolt to specification.
pump. 3. Remove the roll pin from the 6. Install the nut on the ball stud,
5. Fill the reservoir with auto- steering arm to idler arm rod and torque the nut to specification.
matic transmission fluid to a point V\ through the slot in the sleeve. Install a new cotter pin.
inch from the top or to the F 4. Remove the control valve ball
mark on the dipstick. 7. Connect the fluid lines to the
stud nut. control valve, and tighten all fittings
Install the non-dipstick type cover 5. Using the tool shown in Fig. 5, securely. Do not over-tighten.
at this time. The cover must be remove the ball stud from the sector
seated evenly and tightly around the shaft arm. 8. Fill the fluid reservoir with the
edge of the reservoir. Tighten the 6. After turning the front wheels specified fluid to a point VA inch
wing nut securely. fully to the left, unthread the con- from the top or to the F mark on
trol valve from the steering arm to the dipstick.
6. Start the engine and run it at
idle speed for about two minutes to idler arm rod. 9. Start the engine and run it at
warm the fluid in the power steer- idle speed for about two minutes to
INSTALLATION warm the fluid in the power steer-
ing system.
1. Thread the valve onto the steer- ing system.
7. After turning the steering
wheel all the way to the left and ing arm-to-idler arm rod until about 10. Turn the steering wheel all
right several times, check the sys- four threads are still visible on the the way to the left and right several
tem for leaks. rod. times, and check the system for
2. Position the ball stud in the fluid leaks.
8. Increase the engine speed to
about 1000 rpm, and turn the steer- sector shaft arm. 11. Increase the engine speed to
ing wheel all the way to the left and
right several times. Do not hold the
wheel against the stops more than
three seconds.
9. Stop the engine, and check the
pump, reservoir, and hose connec-
tions for fluid leaks. Correct the
cause of any leaks.
10. Check the fluid level, and re-
fill the reservoir if necessary.
To check the fluid in the remote
mounted reservoir, turn the wing
nut to the top of the stud, then, ro-
tate the cover clockwise until the
fluid is visible. Add fluid as required,
then secure the cover in place.
CONTROL VALVE
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the four fluid line fit- GREASE PLUG SPINDLE CONNECTING ROD BALL STUD
G1064-B
tings at the control valve, and drain
the fluid from the lines. Turn the F I G . 6—Measuring Control Valve Length for Installation
3-30 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

about 1OOO rpm, and turn the steer- cylinder piston rod. Then position
ing wheel all the way to the left and the cylinder ball stud in the steering
right several times. arm-to-idler arm with the piston rod
12. Stop the engine, and check in its bracket.
the control valve and hose connec- 2. Install the nut on the cylinder
tions for fluid leaks. Correct the ball stud. Torque the nut to speci-
cause of any leaks. fication and install a new cotter pin.
13. Check the fluid level, and re- 3. Install the outer insulator,
fill the reservoir if necessary. washer, and nut on the piston rod,
14. With the engine running, and torque the nut to specification.
check the position of the steering Install the piston rod lock nut.
wheel when the front wheels are in 4. Install the two lines between
the straight-ahead position. Do not the control valve and cylinder.
make any adjustments until toe-in is Tighten the fittings.
checked.
5. Fill the fluid reservoir with
15. Keep the engine running, and FIG. 7-Checking Preload fluid (Group 21) to VA inch from the
check toe-in. If either toe-in or steer- top or to the F mark on the dipstick.
ing wheel position is not correct times to force all the fluid from the
make all necessary adjustments 6. Start the engine and run it at
power cylinder. idle speed for about two minutes to
(Part 3-1) at the spindle connecting
rod sleeves. 2. Remove the lock nut, nut, warm the fluid.
washer, and insulator from the outer 7. Turn the steering wheel all the
16. Connect a torque wrench to end of the piston rod. Do not re-
the steering wheel hub (Fig. 7), and way to the left and right several
move the rod from the bracket at

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note the torque required to turn times, and check the system for fluid
this time. leaks.
the wheel in both directions with the
engine idling. The pull should not 3. Remove the cotter pin and nut
which holds the cylinder on the 8. Increase the engine speed to
exceed 56 inch-pounds and should about 1000 rpm and turn the steer-
be about equal in both directions. steering arm-to-idler arm rod. Then
remove the power cylinder ball stud ing wheel all the way to the left and
After making this check, torque the right several times. Do not hold
steering wheel attaching nut to spe- from the steering arm-to-idler arm
rod using tool 3290-C. Remove the against the stops longer than three
cification and stake the nut. seconds at a time.
piston rod from the bracket and re-
POWER CYLINDER move the sleeve, inner bushing and 9. Stop the engine, and check the
REMOVAL washer from the piston rod. power cylinder and hose connections
1. Remove the two lines from be- for fluid leaks. Correct the cause of
tween the power steering valve and INSTALLATION any leaks.
the power cylinder. Move the front 1. Install the washer, inner insu- 10. Check the fluid level, and re-
wheels to the left and right several lator sleeve and boot on the power fill the reservoir if necessary.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

POWER STEERING PUMP 5. Remove all the bolts from the parts or the oil seal. Remove the
pump, and separate the bracket, cam insert only for replacement.
DISASSEMBLY pump housing, and housing cover. 9. Slide the carrier off the shaft
Handle all parts very carefully to If the parts do not pull apart easily, and remove the carrier shaft pin
avoid nicks, burrs, scratches, and tap them gently with a soft hammer (Fig. 8).
dirt which could make the parts un- to loosen them. Lift the cover ver-
fit for use. tically from the housing to prevent CARRIER SHAFT
1. Drain as much as possible of internal parts from falling out.
the remaining fluid from the pump 6. Remove the O-rings from the
and reservoir, and clamp the pump flow director and the carrier insert ROLLERS
adjusting bracket in a vise. (Fig. 8).
7. Using a feeler gauge and a
2. On a car without air condi- straight-edge, check the end clear-
tioning, remove the reservoir cover. ance of the carrier and the rollers
Remove the reservoir retaining nut in the pump housing (Fig. 9). If the
and reinforcement from inside the clearance exceeds 0.0015-inch, re-
reservoir and lift the reservoir off place the worn parts. A damaged
the pump. On cars equipped with roller, carrier, or insert should not
CAM
INSERT
air conditioning, it may be necessary be replaced by itself; these parts are
to remove the adapter. serviced in a kit, and all parts of the
3. Remove the two orifice O-rings kit should be used. CARRIER SHAFT PIN G1O11-B
from the top of the pump. 8. Remove the six rollers, and then
4. Remove the pulley and the pul- pull out the carrier and shaft very FIG. 8—Pump Housing Carrier
ley key from the carrier shaft. carefully to avoid damage to these and Shaft
 P A R T 3-4-POWER STEERING 3-31

POWER STEERING
Straight Edge PUMP VALVE

CARRIER

VALVE
SPOOL
BOLT

RELIEF VALVE RETAINER G1028-A

Feeler FIG. 10—Pump Cover
Gauge BALL STUD
SOCKET TRAVEL
2. Remove the centering spring REGULATOR
G1013-A cap from the valve housing (Fig. STOP
G1O3O-
11). When holding the control valve
FIG. 9 - E n d Clearance Check FIG. 12—Removing Stop Pin
for disassembly, use a soft-jawed
vise, and clamp the valve only
10. Remove the relief valve re- around the sleeve flange to prevent housing, and remove the seal from
tainer (Fig. 10) from the housing damage to the housing, spool, or the spool.
cover, and remove the O-ring from sleeve. 7. Remove the spacer, bushing,
the retainer. 3. Remove the nut from the end and seal from the sleeve end of the
11. Remove the valve spring from of the valve spool bolt. Remove the valve housing.

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the bore in the housing cover, and washers, spacer, centering spring,
slide the valve out of the bore. If 8. Drive the stop pin out of the
adapter, and bushing from the bolt travel regulator stop with a punch
the valve does not slide out easily, and the valve housing.
tap the cover with a soft hammer. and hammer (Fig. 12). Pull the head
4. Remove the two bolts that hold of the valve spool bolt tightly
Do not scratch or nick the valve
when removing it from the cover. the valve housing and the sleeve to- against the travel regulator stop be-
gether, and separate the housing fore driving the pin out of the stop.
CONTROL VALVE from the sleeve.
9. Turn the travel regulator stop
5. Remove the plug from the counterclockwise in the valve sleeve
DISASSEMBLY valve sleeve. to remove the stop from the sleeve.
1. Wipe all fluid and loose dirt 6. Push the valve spool out of the
from the outside of the control valve. centering spring end of the valve 10. Remove the valve spool bolt,

WASHER

CUSHION
SPRING /
CAP ADJUSTING
NUT
WASHER

CENTERING
SPRING SPACER

REACTION S P R I N G '

REACTION VALVE

TRAVEL
REGULATOR

PLUG

CLAMP

G1029-C
FIG. 1 1 -Control Valve Disassembled
3-32 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

enough to bottom the seat in the

Press Ram
port.
-T53L-200-A
POWER STEERING PUMP
ASSEMBLY
Before assembling the pump and
reservoir, coat all parts with auto-
Tool- matic transmission fluid. If the cam
T53P-33623-A insert is to be replaced, the new in-
PUMP HOUSING sert must be installed so that the slot
in the edge of the insert engages the
FIG. 13—Removing Reaction small pin in the pump housing.
Valve Plug 1. If the carrier and related parts
seem to be in good condition, install
spacer, and rubber washer from the the pin and the carrier on the shaft.
travel regulator stop. Make sure that the carrier teeth are
pointed in a counterclockwise direc-
11. Remove the rubber boot and G1015-A tion of rotation when the carrier is
clamp from the valve sleeve. FIG. 14-lnstalling Carrier Shaft installed in the housing.
12. Slide the bumper, spring, and Seal 2. Carefully insert the shaft
ball stud seat out of the valve sleeve, through the housing, taking care not
and remove the ball stud socket to damage the seal. Install the roll-
from the sleeve. and thread a bolt of suitable size
ers. To avoid damage to the seal, be

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into the port. Tighten the bolt
13. After removing the return enough to bottom the seat in the sure the shaft does not move back
port hose seal, remove the return port. and forth in the housing.
port relief valve. 3. Position the valve assembly
Carrier Shaft Seal Replacement.
14. After removing the spring If the shaft seal was removed from and spring in the bore, install a new
plug and O-ring, remove the reac- the pump housing, install a new O-ring on the pump valve retainer,
tion limiting valve (Fig. 13). seal. Do not install the old seal. and install the retainer in the pump
housing cover. Torque the retainer
POWER CYLINDER 1. Coat the lip of a new seal with to specifications.
SEAL REMOVAL Lubriplate or an equivalent lubri-
cant. 4. Place a new O-ring in the
1. Clamp the power cylinder in groove around the insert in the
2. Position the seal in the bore of pump housing, and install a new
a vise, and remove the snap ring the housing. The lip of the seal must
from the end of the cylinder. Be flow-ring in the face of the housing
face toward the pump housing car- (Fig. 10).
careful not to distort or crack the rier chamber.
cylinder in the vise. 3. Press the seal into the housing 5. Fasten the pump housing and
2. Pull the piston rod out all the (Fig. 14) until it seats firmly and cover together.
way to remove the scraper, bushing, evenly against the shoulder in the 6. Clamp the adjusting bracket in
and seals. If the seals cannot be re- bore. a vise, and install the pump on the
moved in this manner, remove them bracket. Torque all bolts to spe-
from the cylinder with a sharp pick. CONTROL VALVE cifications.
TUBE SEAT REPLACEMENT 7. Install the key, pulley washer,
PARTS REPAIR AND and retaining bolt on the carrier
REPLACEMENT If a hose seat is worn or dam-
aged, it should be replaced. It can shaft.
PUMP be removed with an Easy-Out tool, 8. Torque the pulley retaining
Orifice Tube Seat Replacement. If or by using a bolt of appropriate bolt to specification. The carrier
damage, wear, or leakage makes re- size as a puller. shaft should turn freely when the
placement of this seat necessary, use 1. Tap the existing hole in the bolt is properly tightened.
the following procedure: tube seat, using a starting tap of suit- 9. Place the new O-rings in the
1. Tap the existing hole in the able size. Be sure to remove all metal grooves on the top of the pump
seat, using a starting tap of suitable chips from the hose seat port after housing on pump mounted reser-
size. Be sure to remove all metal tapping. voirs. Only one O-ring is required
chips from the seat port after tap- 2. Place a nut and large flat wash- at the outlet when the adapter is
ping. er on a bolt of the same size as the used.
2. Place a nut and large flat tapped hole. The washer must be 10. Hold the reservoir on the
washer on a bolt of the same size as large enough to cover the hose seat pump housing, and install the rein-
the tapped hole. The washer must port. forcement in the reservoir. Install
be large enough to cover the seat 3. Insert the bolt in the tapped and torque the retaining bolt to spe-
port. hole, and using the nut as a puller, cifications. The ears on the rein-
3. Insert the bolt in the tapped remove the tube seat. forcement should be facing upward
hole and, using it as a puller remove 4. Place a new tube seat in the over the outer hole in the reservoir.
the seat. port, and thread a bolt of suitable On cars equipped with air condi-
4. Place a new seat in the port, size into the port. Tighten the bolt tioning, properly position the adap-
 P A R T 3-4-POWER STEERING 3-33

ter. Then, install and torque the re- VALVE HOUSING TIGHTEN NUT SECURELY
taining bolt to specifications. THEN L O O S E N - N O T
MORE THAN VA TURN
11. Cement (M2G14-A cement) a
new cover gasket around the in- VALVE SPOOL
side of the cover. Install only the
dipstick-type cover, washer, and re-
taining bolt at this time. The cover ADJUSTING
NUT
must be seated evenly and tightly
on the reservoir.
CENTERING SPRING
G1036-B
CONTROL VALVE FIG. 16-lnserting Valve Spool ADAPTER
ASSEMBLY G1034-A
Before assembling the control 8. Insert the valve spool in the F I G . 17—Adjusting Centering
valve, coat all parts except the seals valve housing (Fig. 16). Rotate the
spool while inserting it in the housing. Spring
with Ford Automatic Transmission
Fluid. Coat the seals with lubricant 9. Move the spool toward the 17. Move the ball stud back and
COAZ-19553-A. centering spring end of the housing, forth in the sleeve slot to check the
1. Install the reaction limiting and place the small seal, bushing, spool for free movement. See Part
valve, the spring, and the plug. and spacer in the sleeve end of the 9-3 for the specified travel. Apply
housing. silicone grease at the sealing areas.
2. Install the return port relief
valve and the hose seat. 10. Press the valve spool against 18. Install the centering spring
the inner lip of the seal and, at the

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cap on the valve housing, and torque
3. Insert one of the ball stud same time, guide the lip of the seal the two cap bolts to specification.
seats (flat end first) into the ball stud over the spool with a small screw-
socket, and insert the threaded end 19. Install the nut on the ball
driver. Do not nick or scratch the stud so that the valve can be posi-
of the ball stud into the socket. seal or the spool during installation. tioned in a vise as shown in Fig. 18.
4. Place the socket in the control 11. Place the sleeve end of the Then push forward on the cap end
valve sleeve so that the threaded end housing on a flat surface so that the of the valve to check the valve spool
of the ball stud can be pulled out seal, bushing, and spacer are at for free movement.
through the slot in the sleeve (Fig. the bottom end and push down on
15). the valve spool until it stops. PUSH FORWARD TO CHECK
VALVE SPOOL MOVEMENT
12. Carefully install the spool
seal and bushing in the centering
spring end of the housing around
the large end of the spool. Press the
seal against the end of the spool,
guiding the seal over the spool with
a small screwdriver. Do not nick or
CONTROL scratch the seal or the spool during
VALVE SLEEVE installation.
G1054-A
BALL STUD SEAT' 13. Pick up the housing, and
BALL STUD' slide the spool back and forth in the F I G . 18—Inspecting Valve Spool
BALL STUD SOCKET" G1035-A housing to check for free movement. Movement
F I G . 15-lnstalling Ball Stud 14. Place the valve sleeve on the
housing so that the ball stud is on 20. Turn the valve around in the
Seal and Socket
the same side of the housing as the vise, and push forward on the sleeve
ports for the two power cylinder end to check the spool for free
5. Place the other ball stud seat, movement.
the spring, and the bumper (Fig. 11) lines. Install the two bolts in the
in the socket, and install and se- sleeve, and torque them to specifi-
cations. POWER CYLINDER
curely tighten the travel regulator
stop. 15. Place the adapter on the cen- ASSEMBLY
6. Loosen the stop just enough tering spring end of the housing, When replacing the power cylin-
to align the nearest hole in the stop and install the bushing, washers, der seals, install all of the parts sup-
with the slot in the ball stud socket, spacers, and centering spring on the plied in the repair kit.
and install the stop pin in the ball valve spool bolt. 1. Coat the new seals with sili-
stud socket, travel regulator stop, 16. Compress the centering spring, cone lubricant, and place the parts
and valve spool bolt (Fig. 12). and install the nut on the bolt. After (Fig. 19) on the piston rod which
7. Install the rubber boot, clamp, tightening the nut securely, loosen has been coated with the same
and the plug on the control valve it not more than VA turn (Fig. 17). grease.
sleeve. Make sure that the lubrica- Excessive tightening of the nut may 2. Push the rod in all the way,
tion fitting is turned on tightly and break the stop pin at the travel regu- and install the parts in the cylinder
does not bind on the ball stud socket. lator stop. with a deep socket slightly smaller
3-34 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

DEEP SOC
INSERT
POWER
RUBBER WIPER CYLINDER
SEAL

SCRAPER

G1020-A
FIG. 20—Installing Power
SNAP RING
Cylinder Seals
G1031-B
than the cylinder opening (Fig. 20).
FIG. 19—Power Cylinder Install the snap ring.

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 3-35

PART WHEELS AND TIRES

3-5
Section Page Section Page
1 Description and Operation 3-35 3 Removal and Installation 3-36
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs 3-35 4 Major Repair Operations 3-37

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

FRONT WHEEL ASSEMBLY cotter pin (Fig. 1). The front wheel and is held against the hub and
Each front wheel and tire assem- assemblies rotate freely on their re- drum by the wheel nuts. The rear
bly is bolted to its respective front spective spindles and are driven by wheel bearing is pressed onto the
the motion of the car. axle shaft just inside the shaft flange,
hub and brake drum assembly. Two and the entire assembly is retained
opposed tapered roller bearings are REAR WHEEL ASSEMBLY to the rear axle housing by the bear-
installed in each hub. A grease re- The rear wheel hub and brake ing retainer plate which is bolted to
tainer is installed at the inner end drum assembly is retained to studs the housing flange.

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of the hub to prevent lubricant from on the rear axle shaft flange by three The inner end of each axle shaft
leaking into the drum. The entire speed nuts (Part 3-2, Fig. 2). The is splined to the engine powered dif-
assembly is retained to its spindle wheel and tire assembly mounts on ferential. The rear wheels are, there-
by the adjusting nut, nut lock and the same rear axle shaft flange studs fore, driven by the engine.

IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

FRONT WHEEL BEARING HUB AND BRAKE GREASE
ADJUSTMENT DRUM ASSEMBLY RETAINER

The front wheel bearings should

ADJUSTING
be adjusted if the wheel is loose on BEARING
NUT
the spindle or if the wheel does not OUTER CUP
rotate freely. The following proce- BEARING
CONE AND
dure will bring the bearing adjust- ROLLER
GREASE
ment to specification. CAP

1. Raise the car until the wheel INNER BEARING

CONE AND
and tire clear the floor. ROLLER

2. Pry off the hub cap or wheel

WASHER
cover and remove the grease cap WHEEL
(Fig. 1) from the hub. NUT ASSEMBLY

3. Wipe the excess grease from HUB BOLT F1O56-C

the end of the spindle, and remove F I G . 1 — Front Hub, Bearings and Grease Retainer
the cotter pin and nut lock.
4. While rotating the wheel, hub,
and drum assembly, torque the ad-
justing nut to 15-20 ft-lbs to seat the
bearings (Fig. 2).
5. Locate the nut lock on the
adjusting nut so that the castellations
on the lock are aligned with the
cotter pin hole in the spindle. WITH DRUM AND WHEEL BACK OFF NUT AND NUT
ROTATING, TORQUE THE INSTALL LOCK O N NUT SO THAT
LOCK ONE CASTELLATION
6. Using a lVs-inch box wrench, ADJUSTING CASTELLATIONS ARE ALIGNED
INSTALL COTTER PIN.
NUT TO 15-20 ft. lbs. WITH COTTER PIN HOLE.
back off both the adjusting nut and F1138-A
the nut lock together until the next F I G . 2—Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
3-36 G R O U P 3 - SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

castellation on the nut lock aligns cap or wheel cover. If the wheel still
with the cotter pin hole in the rotates roughly or noisily, clean, in-
spindle. spect or replace the bearings and
7. Install a new cotter pin, and cups as required.
bend the ends of the cotter pin
around the castellated flange of the TIRE ROTATION
nut lock. For longer tire life, all five tires
should be cross-switched as shown F1019-A
8. Check the front wheel rota-
tion. If the wheel rotates properly, in Fig. 3. See Group 19 for the FIG. 3-Tire Cross-Switching
install the grease cap and the hub specified interval. Diagram

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

WHEEL AND TIRE ASSEMBLY side of the wheel rim. Use only tire ing band over the tire (Fig. 5). If a
irons with rounded edges or irons de- mounting band is not available, tie
REMOVAL
signed for demounting tubeless tires. a tourniquet of heavy cord around
1. Pry off the wheel hub cap or the circumference of the tire. Tight-
cover. Loosen but do not remove 4. Leave one tire iron in position,
and pry the rest of the bead over en the cord with a tire iron. Center
the wheel hub nuts. the tire on the wheel with a rubber
the rim with the other iron. Take

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2. Raise the car until the wheel small "bites" with the iron around mallet.
and tire clear the floor. the tire in order to avoid damaging
3. Remove the wheel hub nuts the sealing surface of the tire bead.
from the bolts, and pull the wheel 5. Stand the wheel and tire up-
and tire assembly from the hub and right with the tire outer bead in the
drum. drop center well at the bottom of the
DEMOUNTING TIRE wheel. Insert the tire iron between
FROM WHEEL the bead and the edge of the wheel
The tire can be demounted on a rim, and pry the wheel out of the F1021-A
mounting machine. Be sure that the tire.
FIG. 5-Tubeless Tire Mounting
outer side of the wheel is positioned MOUNTING TIRE TO WHEEL Band
downward. If tire irons are used fol-
1. If a used tire is being installed
low the procedure given here. remove all dirt from the tire. 5. Give the tire a few quick bursts
1. Remove the valve cap and of air to seat the beads properly,
If a tire is being mounted to the
core, and deflate the tire completely. then inflate the tire to 40 psi pres-
original wheel, clean the rim with
sure. Check to see that the bead po-
2. With a bead loosening tool, emery cloth or fine steel wool.
sitioning rings (outer rings near the
break loose the tire side walls from Check the rim for dents.
side walls) are evenly visible just
the wheel (Fig. 4). If a new wheel is being installed, above the rim flanges all the way
3. Position the outer side of the coat a new valve with RUGLYDE around the tire. If the rings are not
wheel downward, and insert two tire or similar rubber lubricant and posi- even, deflate the tire completely and
irons about eight inches apart be- tion the valve to the new wheel. Use inflate it again.
tween the tire inner bead and the back a rubber hammer or a valve replac-
6. When the rings are properly
ing tool to seat the valve firmly
positioned, deflate the tire to the rec-
against the inside of the rim.
ommended pressure.
2. Apply RUGLYDE or a similar
rubber lubricant to the sealing sur- INSTALLATION
face on both tire beads. With the 1. Clean all dirt from the hub
outer side of the wheel down, pry and drum.
the beads over the wheel rim with 2. Position the wheel and tire as-
two tire irons. Do not use a hammer sembly on the hub and drum. Install
or mallet to force the beads over the wheel hub nuts and tighten them
the rim. alternately in order to draw the
3. Align the balance mark on the wheel evenly against the hub and
tire with the valve on the wheel. drum.
F1O58-A 4. Hold the beads against the rim 3. Lower the car to the floor, and
FIG. 4—Bead Loosening Tool flanges by positioning a tire mount- torque the hub nuts to specification.
 P A R T 3-5-WHEELS AND TIRES 3-37

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

FRONT WHEEL GREASE SEAL ner and outer bearing cups with sol-
AND BEARING REPLACEMENT vent and inspect the cups for
scratches, pits, excessive wear, and
A N D / O R REPACKING
other damage. If the cups are worn
If bearing adjustment will not or damaged, remove them with a
eliminate looseness or rough and drift. LUBR
noisy operation, the hub and bear- 7. Soak a new grease retainer in
ings should be cleaned, inspected, light engine oil at least 30 minutes
and repacked. If the bearing cups or before installation. Thoroughly clean
the cone and roller assemblies are the inner and outer bearing cones
worn or damaged, they should be and rollers with solvent, and dry
replaced. them thoroughly. Do not spin the
bearings with compressed air.
1. Raise the car until the wheel
and tire clear the floor. Inspect the cone and roller assem-
blies for wear or damage, and re-
2. Insert a narrow screwdriver place them if necessary. The cone
through the brake adjusting hole at and roller assemblies and the bear-
the inner side of the brake backing ing cups should be replaced as a
plate, and disengage the adjusting unit if damage to either is encoun-
lever from the adjusting screw. tered.

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While holding the adjusting lever
away from the screw, back off the 8. Thoroughly clean the spindle
adjusting screw with the brake ad- and the inside of the hub with sol-
justing tool (Fig. 6). Be very care- vent to remove all old lubricant.
ful not to burr, chip, or damage the Cover the spindle with a clean
notches in the adjusting screw; other- cloth, and brush all loose dust and F1174-A
wise the self adjusting mechanism dirt from the brake assembly. To
prevent getting dirt on the spindle, FIG. 8-Front Wheel Hub
will not function properly.
carefully remove the cloth from the Lubrication
3. Remove the wheel cover or spindle.
hub cap. Remove the grease cap ble for this operation. If a packer is
from the hub. Remove the cotter 9. If the inner and/or outer bear-
ing cup(s) were removed, install the not available, work as much lubri-
pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and cant as possible between the rollers
flat washer from the spindle. Re- replacement cup(s) in the hub with
the tool shown in Fig. 7. Be sure to and cages. Lubricate the cone sur-
move the outer bearing cone and faces with grease.
roller assembly (Fig. 1). seat the cups properly in the hub.
10. Pack the inside of the hub 12. Place the inner bearing cone
4. Pull the wheel, hub, and drum
with specified wheel bearing grease. and roller assembly in the inner
assembly off the wheel spindle.
Add lubricant to the hub only until cup, and install the new grease re-
5. Remove the grease retainer the grease is flush with the inside tainer with the reverse end of the
and the inner bearing cone and roll- diameter of both bearing cups (Fig. tool shown in Fig. 7. Be sure that
er assembly from the hub with tool the retainer is properly seated.
8).
1175AE.
11. All old grease should be com- 13. Install the wheel, hub, and
6. Clean the lubricant off the in- pletely cleaned from the bearings drum assembly on the wheel spin-
before repacking them with new dle. Keep the hub centered on the
grease. Pack the bearing cone and spindle to prevent damage to the
roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease retainer or the spindle threads.
grease. A bearing packer is desira-
14. Install the outer bearing cone
and roller assembly and the flat
Tool-T56P-I217-A washer on the spindle, then install
the adjusting nut (Fig. 1).
15. Adjust the wheel bearings as
outlined in Section 2, and install a
new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the
cotter pin around the castellations of
the nut lock to prevent interference
with the radio static collector in the
MOVE HANDLE
UPWARDS INNER CUP OUTER CUP
grease cap. Install the grease cap.
INSTALLATION INSTALLATION 16. Adjust the brake shoes as out-
H1144-A F1057-A lined in Part 2-2, Section 2.
FIG. 6-Backing Off Brake FIG. 7-lnstalling Front Wheel 17. Install the hub cap or wheel
Adjustment Bearing Cup cover.
3-38 G R O U P 3-SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

FRONT HUB AND DRUM outlined in steps 2 and 3 of the fore- washer on the spindle, then install
ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT going procedure. the adjusting nut (Fig. 1).
3. Remove the protective coating 7. Position the wheel and tire as-
When the hub and drum assembly from the new hub and drum with sembly on the new hub and drum
is replaced, new bearings, cups, and carburetor degreaser. Install new in- assembly. Install the wheel hub nuts
grease retainer must be installed in ner and outer bearing cups in the and tighten them alternately in or-
the new assembly. The new grease new hub with the tool shown in Fig. der to draw the wheel evenly against
retainer should be soaked in light 7. Be sure to seat the cups properly the hub and drum.
engine oil at least 30 minutes before in the hub. 8. Adjust the wheel bearings as
installation. outlined in Section 2, and install a
4. Grease and install the new
new cotter pin. Bend the ends of
parts as outlined in steps 10 through
1. Raise the car until the wheel the cotter pin around the castella-
12 of the foregoing procedure.
and tire clears the floor. Pry off the tions of the nut lock to prevent in-
hub cap or wheel cover, and remove 5. Install the new hub and drum terference with the radio static col-
the wheel and tire assembly from assembly on the wheel spindle. Keep lector in the grease cap. Install the
the hub and drum assembly. the hub centered on the spindle to grease cap.
prevent damage to the grease re- 9. Adjust the brake shoes as out-
2. Back off the brake adjuster and tainer. lined in Part 2-2, Section 2.
remove the old hub and drum as- 6. Install the outer bearing cone 10. Install the hub cap or wheel
sembly from the wheel spindle as and roller assembly and the flat cover.

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 P A R T 3-6-SPECIFICATIONS 3-39

PART SPECIFICATIONS
3-6
TORQUE LIMITS—MANUAL STEERING FRONT SUSPENSION
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Description Ft.-Lbs.
CASTER
Steering Pitman Rod Assembly 35-55
Caster Angle
Steering Spindle Arm Connecting Rod and End Assy, to
Control Rod 35-55 Maximum Caster Angle
Difference Between Wheels
Steering Spindle Arm Connecting Rod and End Assy, to
Spindle Arm 35-55
CAMBER
Steering Spindle Connecting Rod Clamp to Adjusting Sleeve 8-13
Steering Idler Arm Mounting Bracket to Frame Assembly 25-35 Camber Angle
Idler Arm to Frame Mtg. Brkt. Assy. 60-70 Maximum Camber Angle
Idler Arm to Rod Assy. 60-70 Difference Between Wheels
Steering Wheel to Steering Gear Assembly 25-35 Maximum Allowable Thickness of Shim Stack at Each Bolt % inch
Trans. Manual Shift Rod (Locking Rod) to Ball Joint Amount of Camber Angle Change with Vie-inch
(Movable Column) 7-11 Change of Shim Thickness at Both Bolts
Steering Pitman Arm to Sector Shaft Assy. 110-150

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TOE-IN AND TOE-OUT
Steering Gear Assy, to Frame Assy. 28-43
Steering Column Bracket to Instrument Panel 12-16 Toe-In VS-VA inch
Steering Gear & Lower Flange Assy, to Upper Shaft & Flange 15-20 Toe-Out on Turn (Angle of Inside Wheel
Selector Assy, to Track Assy. (Movable Col.) 6-9 When Outside Wheel is Turned 20°) 20%°
Track Assy, to Brake Pedal Supt. (Movable Col.) 13-21
TORQUE LIMITS-FRONT SUSPENSION
Steering Col. to Pivot Bracket 7-11
Pivot Bracket to Steering Gear 7-11 Description Ft.-Lbs.
Brace to Track Assy. 7-11
Joint Assy.-Frt. Suspension Lower Arm Ball to Frt. Spindle 70-90
Brace to Brake Pedal Supt. 7-11
Joint Assy.—Frt. Suspension Upper Arm Ball to Frt. Spindle 60-80
Track Assy, to Track Bracket 7-11
Bumper Assy.—Frt. Suspension Upper Arm to Arm &
Outer Brace to Track Bracket 7-11 Inner Shaft Assy. 15-25
Sector Shaft Cover Bolts 20-30 Arm & Inner Shaft Assy.—Front Suspension Upper to
Meshload Adjusting Screw Lock Nut 32-40 Bracket—Suspension Arm & Shock Mounting Upper 65-85
Ball Return Guide Clamp Screw 3H-5 Arm & Bushing Assy.-Frt. Suspension Lower to Frame Frt.
Adjuster Lock Nut 60-80 Crossmember 40-60
Arm & Bushing Assy.—Frt. Suspension Lower to Frame #2
Crossmember 40-60
Frt. Shock Absorber Pin & Bushing Assy, to Frt. Suspension
TORQUE LIMITS—POWER STEERING Lower Arm Assy. 10-15
Frt. Shock Absorber to Upper Mounting Bracket in Frame 15-25
Description Ft.-Lbs.
Bushing—Frt. Suspension Upper Arm to Frt. Suspension
Steering Pitman Arm to Sector Shaft Assembly 110-150 Upper Arm Shaft 160 to 190
Steering Pitman Arm to Idler Arm Rod Assembly (Power Frt. Stabilizer Bar to Lower Arm 8-13
Steering Valve) 35-55 Frt. Stabilizer Bar Frame Mounting Bracket to Frame 20-35
Power Cylinder Assy, to Crosslink 50-65 Bumper Assy.—Lower Arm to Arm & Bushing Assy.—
Front Suspension Lower 15-25
Idler Arm to Bracket and Idler Arm to Rod Assy. 60-70
Bushing Assy.—Lower Arm Front Shaft Mounting 160-240
Steering Spindle Arm Connecting Rod & End Assy, to Control
Rod Assy. 35-55
TORQUE LIMITS-REAR SUSPENSION
Steering Spindle Arm Connecting Rod & End Assy, to
Spindle Arm 35-55 Description Ft.-Lbs.
Steering Spindle Connecting Rod Clamp to Adjusting Sleeve 8-13
Rear Shock Absorber to Rear Spring Plate Assy. 15-25
Hydraulic Control Valve Clamp to Control Rod Assy. 15-20
Rear Suspension Spring Assy, to Rear Spring Front Hanger
Steering Idler Arm Mounting Bracket to Frame Assy. (in Frame Assy.) 30-40
(Side Holes) 25-35 Rear Suspension Spring Shackle Bars to Frame Assy. 15-22
Cylinder Mounting Bracket to Frame Assy. (Bottom Holes) 35-43 Rear Suspension Spring Shackle Bar to Rear Spring Assy. 15-22
Hydraulic Cylinder to Bracket 18-24 Rear Suspension Spring Assy, to Rear Axle 30-45
Hydraulic Cylinder to Mounting Bracket Jam-Nut 3-5 Rear Brake Assy. & Bearing Retainer to Rear Axle Housing 30-40
Cylinder Mounting Bracket to Frame (Side Hole) 50-65 Universal Joint Flange Axle End to
Universal Joint Bearing Assy. 12-15
Pressure Hose to Power Steering Pump 18-25
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Mounting to Stud and
Pressure Hose to Power Steering Valve 6-9 Stud to Frame 30-40
Return Line Tube to Power Steering Valve 10-20 Rear Brake Assy. & Bearing Retainer to Rear Axle Housing 55-65
Hoses (Valve to Cylinder) to Power Steering Valve and to the Bumper Assy.—Rear Axle Differential Carrier to
Power Cylinder 14-18 Differential Carrier Bracket 15-22
3-40 G R O U P 3-SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TIRES

REAR LEAF SPRING SUSPENSION LUBRICATION

Body Number of Capacity at Normal Spring Length Steering Arm Stop M-1C31
Style Leaves Load Height at Normal Load
Rear Spring Bushings
Hardtop 4 880-920 pounds 60 inches
M-99C45-A
And Center Mounting Insulator
Convertible 4 980-1020 pounds 60 inches

WHEELS AND TIRES

Inflation
Pressure Bolt Wheel Front Wheel
Model Application Tire Size (Pil)* Circle Number Nut Bearing
Wheel Rim Diameter of Torque End
Front Rear Type Type (inches) Bolts (Foot-Pounds) Play
Ford 300 7.00 x 14©
Sedan 500 7.50 x 14®
24 5.5J .005 to .0065
Mercury Sedail 8.00 x 14 Disc 4.5 5 75-110 with torque at
24
Six 7.50 x 14 17-25 ft-lbs
Convertible
V-8 8.00 x 14
Station Wagon 8.00 x 14 28 6.0J
Police & Taxi 6.70 x 15 24 5.5J

•For Sustained High Speed Driving or for Hauling Heavy Loads, add 4 lbs. to recommended pressures.
©Use 7.50 x 14 with Air Conditioning; or with Power Brakes and Power Steering; or with 352 CID Engine.

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©Use 8.00 x 14 with Air Conditioning.

TREAD WIDTH AND WHEELBASE

Front Tread Width 61 inches Lube Capacity 11 Oz. 11 Oz.

Rear Tread Width 60 inches Worm Bearing Preload @ 4-5 3-4
Lbs. In. Lbs. In.
Wheelbase 119 inches
Total Preload (Worm Bearing Plus 9-10 *8-9
Sector Mesh) $ Lbs. In. Lbs. In.

LUBRICATION ADJUSTMENTS

Front Wheel Bearings .... Pack with ESA-M1C60-A Adjusting screw clearance at bottom of sector shaft T-slot—.00(T-.002".
Backlash at 30° on either side of straight ahead] steering position—None
Front Wheel Bearing Seal Soak in Oil M-4629 Sector shaft end play—Steering linkage disconnected—None

NOTES
# Gear Only—Not attached to Pitman arm
SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS, ADJUSTMENTS AND @ Torque required to rotate input shaft at approx. \lA turns either side
of center. (Gear out of car or steering wheel removed and Pitman
TOLERANCES arm disconnected)
VEHICLE $ Required to rotate input shaft and worm assembly past center high
point
Model HCA-AX HCA-BL * Total preload must be a minimum of 2 lbs. in greater than bearing
Gear Type Manual Power
Gear Ratio 22:1 20:1
Turns of Steering Wheel (Stop to Stop) # Wi 5