Dermaplaning

Table Of Contents Skin Disorders 28

The Consultation 32

What is Dermaplaning 36
Introduction 04

The Protocol 42

Best Practice 06
The Equipment 45

FAQ 46
First Aid at Work 11

Sterilisation Methods 18

Anatomy & Physiology 19

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 Welcome to your lecture
Welcome to your lecture! on Dermaplaning
Aim:

To ensure all student practitioners have the

required knowledge and skills to perform the
procedure professionally and to the highest
Your Name: standard and be fully acquainted with all aspects
of Health and Safety and Anatomy and physiology,
the Consultation process and advising the client
on After care.

Objective:

That on completion of the course all students/

practitioners will be competent and professional
in relation to the procedure and be able to perform
at the highest standard to ensure that clients
receive the best possible advice and treatment
and they will be confident to recommend you
and your services to others.

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 Best Practice
Health & Safety
Before you begin work as a beauty, holistic therapist or nail technician you will
need to be aware of the legislation that you must comply with for the health and
safety of yourself and your clients. You will need to understand what is expected
of you as a professional. This includes how to conduct yourself in front of clients
and interact with fellow professionals.

Health and Safety at work Act 1974

The Health and Safety at Work Act requires all employers to provide systems of
work that are as far as reasonably practical, safe and without risks to any one’s
health. As an employee, you have the responsibility to take care of yourselves and
others that may be affected by their work. As an employee, you see something
which could be potentially harming, such as a hole in which a person could trip
over, it is your immediate responsibility to report this to the management and to
take some remedial action such as placing a sign or covering the hole, until a repair
Health and Safety (Display Screen Equipment) Regulations (1992)
can be made. The act also requires employers to take regular risk assessments to
This covers the use of display screen equipment and computer screens. This spec-
identify potential problems, preventing accidents or injury from occurring. Health
ifies the acceptable levels of radiation emissions from the screen, as well as identi-
and safety rules and regulations are enforced by Environmental health officers who
fying the correct posture and number of rest periods.
visit the workplace. Anyone who employs more than 5 people must have written
health and safety policies. This should identify how health and safety is managed,
Provision and use of Work Equipment Regulations (1998)
including individual roles staff may have, such as first aid or fire safety.
This states any duties for any users of equipment. It identifies the requirements in
selecting and maintaining suitable equipment, as well as the training and safe use
Risk Assessments
of it.
Risk Assessments should be carried out to identify what may cause harm in your
workplace, who is at risk and how accidents could happen, as well as actions you
The Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order (2005)
need to take to prevent them. You should record all the information provided and
All premises must have adequate means of dealing with a fire and all members of
all staff should then act upon it. You can find templates for risk assessments on the
staff should know where these are. This can include fire extinguishers and blan-
website for Health & Safety Executive at www.hse.gov.uk
kets; however, you should only operate a fire extinguisher if you have received the
correct training. All equipment should be checked and maintained regularly. Fire
Management of Health and Safety at Work regulations (1999)
drill notices should be clearly displayed and should inform people of what do to in
It is the responsibility of the employer to make formal arrangements for maintain-
case of a fire. All staff should be trained in location of alarms, exits and meeting
ing and improving safe working conditions and practices. This includes any train-
points.
ing and risk assessments.

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Manual handling operations Regulations 1992 Every therapist should be trained on how to use and store these products correct-
The HSE (Health & Safety Executives) have drawn attention to musculoskeletal ly. It is the Employers responsibility to assess the risk of hazardous substances and
disorders caused by lifting and handling with an unsuitable posture, causing pain decide on any action to reduce the risks.
and injury. The regulations require that training in lifting and handling are per-
formed to prevent such injury’s occurring. Gas Safety (installation & Use) Regulations 1994
This regulation relates to the use of and maintenance of gas supplies. The rights of
Cash Handling entry regulations 1996 gives GAS and HSE inspectors the rights to enter premises
Under the health and safety at work act, failure to provide a safe system of cash and order the disconnection of dangerous and unsafe appliances. All work under-
handling could lead to prosecution of the employer. For example, employers should taken on Gas appliances should be done by registered engineers.
consider this before sending a member of staff to the bank with cash as it is putting
them in a potentially unsafe situation. Electricity at Work Regulations 1989
PPE – Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations 1992 This regulation ensures the safety in the use of electricity. Part of this act is the op-
This act covers equipment and protective clothing to ensure the safety for all in eration and maintenance of electrical equipment in the salon. Equipment should
the workplace. This act also states that personnel must have training in the use of be tested regularly (every 6 months) to ensure that all flexes and fuses are func-
such protective measures. tioning properly. This does not necessarily need to be an electrician. Most salons
have their equipment tested on an annual basis and are certified this is known as
RIDDOR - Reporting of Injuries, Diseases or Dangerous Occurrences Regulations portable appliance testing (PAT).
1995
This regulation states that if anyone dies, is seriously injured in an accident at work, Local Government (Miscellaneous Provisions) Act 1982
or is off work for longer than 3 days as a result of an accident at work the employer Part 8 of the act provides local authorities with powers for the registration of per-
must report it to the local authority environmental health department. Employ- sons who are performing skin piercing (ear piercing, acupuncture, etc). It applies to
ers must keep a record in an accident book of any accident or disease. For legal everyone whether working from a salon or mobile. Each local authority operates
reasons, eve minor accidents should be recorded so that there can be an agreed its own methods of inspection and licensing at its own cost. Fees vary depending
record of what occurred and what action was taken. on your location.

Performing Rights PPL & PRS Trades Description Act 1968 (Amended 1987)
If recorded music is played on the premises, and heard by members of the pub- This Act prohibits the use of false trade descriptions. Whether your own claim, or
lic, then it is necessary to have a license from the phonographic Performance Ltd repeating of a manufacturers’ description, a false claim can be equally liable.
(PPL) which like the PRS (Performing Right Society) collects License payments as
royalties distribution to certain copyright performers and record companies. This Sale of Goods Act 1979 & Sale and Supply of Goods Act 1994
includes music on television channels, radios, CD’s, MP3 Players. These acts cover consumer rights including goods being satisfactory quality and
the conditions in which the goods may be returned after purchase, and whether
COSHH – Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 1994 the goods are fit for their purpose.
This law requires employers to control exposure to hazardous substances in the
workplace. Most products used in the salon are reasonably safe, however could Consumer Protection Act (1987)
become hazardous under certain conditions, or if are used in-correctly. This act aims to protect the consumer from unsafe or defective services or

8 Dermaplaning Dermaplaning 9
products. All staff should be trained in the treatments they carry out and the equip- parent or guardian for the treatment to go ahead. They should also accompany the
ment used in the salon. minor to the salon for the appointment. It is also recommended that you check
your insurance policy wording to see if there are any age restrictions detailed in it.
Cosmetic Products Safety Regulations 1996
These regulations were made under the Consumer Protection Act 1987 and imple- Salon owners should insist that appointments for under 16’s are booked out of
ment EEC regulations regarding labeling, composition, marketing and description school hours. Tanning treatments should not be carried out on under 18’s in line
of cosmetic products. with guidance from the British Medical Association and the HSE. It is recommend-
ed that intimate waxing such as Brazilian or Hollywood should not be carried out
Employers Liability (Compulsory Insurance) Act 1969 on anyone under the age of 18.
This act ensures that all employers take out and maintain approved insurance poli-
cies with authorised insurance bodies for bodily injury or disease sustained by their
employees during their employment. Insurers must issue a certificate of insurance
to employers who are required to display the certificate (or a copy) at each place of
the business.

Treatment Liability Insurance

Attention is drawn to the risks which are insurable under a treatment liability pol-
icy. To provide treatments or to advise without such insurance cover may result
in the therapist whether employed or not suffering heavy financial penalties. Em-
ployees who do not have their own insurance must ensure that they are covered
by their employer’s policy.

Data Protection Act 1984

If a computer is used to record client data information the establishment must be
registered under this act. The act operates to ensure the information is only used
for the purposes that it was given. No information may be given to an outsider
without the client’s permission. The client whose information is held has the right
to request the information for viewing. It must be provided to them within 40 days First Aid at Work
of an application and of a fee not exceeding 10.00. Clients can seek compensation
though court for any infringement of their rights. For more information visit: www. (The Health & Safety First Aid Regulations 1981)
ico.gov.uk Employers have a legal duty to make the necessary arrangements to ensure their
employees receive immediate attention if they are injured or taken ill at work. It is
Minors essential that they receive immediate attention and that an ambulance is called in
In England, Wales and Northern Ireland a minor is anyone under the age of 18. serious cases. A person within the workplace should be appointed to take charge
Sometimes you will have requests for appointments from clients who are younger. of the first aid arrangements. These regulations do not require employers to pro-
If the client is under 18 you should always obtain written permission from their vide first aid for anyone other than their own employees.

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Equal Opportunities Waste
The equal Opportunities Commission states that a workplace must have a written Anything contaminated with human tissues (blood, bodily fluids, excretions, swabs)
equal opportunities policy which includes a statement on the commitment to equal should be designated as a group A clinical waster under the Environmental Protec-
opportunities by the employer. All employees should be aware of this policy. Equal tion Act 1990 and the Controlled Waste Regulations 1992.
opportunities mean that you cannot discriminate against anyone upon the basis of
their sex, race disability etc. Professionalism & Code of Ethics
Each professional organisation should produce its own code of ethics based on
Disability Discrimination Act (1996) expected standards of behavior. These are referred to as a professional code of
You should ensure that clients are not discriminated against on the grounds of a ethics. These are not compulsory but will help towards maintaining high standards
disability. You cannot use this as a reason to refuse to provide a treatment or ser- in the industry. Any individual within the organisation should:
vice, you cannot provide a lesser service or fail to make reasonable adjustments. • Always work within the law
The premises must be able to facilitate access for disabled people. • Never treat, or claim to be able to treat a medical condition
• Respect client confidentiality
The Equality Act (2010 EA) • Show respect for other professions (chiropodist etc)
This act gives disabled people important rights of access to everyday services. Ser- • Maintain high standards of Safety & Hygiene
vice providers have an obligation to make reasonable adjustments to premises or • Apply certain treatments only with written consent from a GP
to the way they provide a service. Sometimes it just takes minor changes to make • Support and show loyalty to other professional beauty therapists
a service accessible. • Never poach another therapist’s client
• Maintain a professional manner
Smoking • Respect client’s modesty
All areas of work in the UK should now be smoke free by law. If you do have a
smoking area, this should be clearly marked. You should display signs prohibiting Personal Appearance & Professionalism
smoking within your business. Taking care of your personal appearance is important for presenting a professional
image and maintains good standards of hygiene. Always ensure that your skin, hair
Laundry and nails are clean always. Your uniform should also be clean and well presented.
All uniforms, towels and couch covers should be laundered with a detergent at a What you choose to wear should be functional and present a professional image
minimum temperature of 60 degrees centigrade and then tumble dried on a hot of yourself. Comfortable smart shoes are recommended. Hair should always be
setting. If your towels are white, they can be washed on the hottest setting your clean, tidy and tied back when necessary. Jewelry should be kept to a minimum to
machine will allow. Never let towels stand while wet. avoid it being damaged or causing harm to a client during a treatment.
Nails should be kept neat and short, particularly when offering hands on treatments
Hand Washing such as massage or facials. Always make sure your hands are washed before and
Remember to always wash your hands before and after every treatment. This after every treatment. Remember that you are an advertisement for your business.
should involve a thorough 20 to 30 second wash of the hands and wrists using hot Personal hygiene is extremely important when working closely with clients. Make
water and liquid soap, followed by drying with paper towels or hand drier. Certain sure that you shower and use deodorant daily. Make sure that your posture is
areas of the hands are more prone to harboring microorganisms. These are be- correct when sitting or standing to prevent muscle fatigue. Uniforms should be
tween fingers, the fingertips, the thumb and back of the hand and wrist. laundered regularly.

12 Dermaplaning Dermaplaning 13
Costs during a treatment. This means that your client is not disadvantaged if they are
Always ensure that the service you offer are cost effective. Make sure that you from another cultural or religious background, are a different age or gender or have
consider all your overheads, the cost of your time, your local area and clientele disabilities. After you have completed consultation you should check to make sure
when setting a price for your treatment. The price you charge for your treatment that your client has understood what you have said. Your body language can also
should cover all overheads and include reasonable profit margins, whilst also being be used to demonstrate your professionalism, allowing your client to feel more
appealing to the public. comfortable when answering your questions.

Personal Safety Insurances & Memberships

Wherever you are working, it is important to keep safe always. If you are travelling Before offering treatments to paying members of the public, you should ensure
to appointments you should ensure that your car is in good condition, ensure that that you are fully insured. This will give you financial protection in case something
it is regularly serviced. If you have an appointment with a new client, make sure goes wrong with the treatment, subject to the terms and conditions of the policy.
you know where you are going. Plan your journey beforehand, and if possible, try It is also advisable to become a member of a professional body such as the guild.
to complete a practice run at an earlier date. Being able to find an address you are They offer many valuable member benefits and offer a professional code of ethics.
looking for means that you are less likely to be late. Try to park close to your client’s
home, this limits the distance you need to walk alone. Try to remember not to leave There are different types of insurance membership cover which therapists may
valuable and equipment on show in your car. Keep your mobile phone to hand. It require to carry our professional treatments. It is important to understand which
allows you to keep in touch with someone at home and provides an escape if it type of insurance you require and this information can be obtained by talking to
becomes necessary for you to contact someone. You should decide if you wish to your insurance provider to ensure it meets your individual requirements.
treat male clients. Lone therapists feel more comfortable working on women only,
others choose to take male clients that the know. Trust your instincts and if you Treatment Liability
feel uncomfortable remove yourself from the situation. Covers you in the event of a claim being made against you by a client who you may
have injured during a treatment, examples include burns, scarring etc.
Working from home
If you are working from home, make sure you can see who you are letting in. If you Public Liability
do not recognise the person or they do not confirm their name you should refuse Covers the insured therapist in the event of a client injuring themselves whilst in
entry. You should keep your treatment room separate from the rest of your home. the treatment room, for example tripping or slipping.
If you imply that somebody else is home, clients are less likely to become aggres-
sive. If you feel threatened in any way you should terminate the appointment and Product Liability
ask them to leave straight away. If you are in their home, you should leave imme- Covers you in the event of a client claiming that a product used in the treatment
diately. If required report any incidents to the police as soon as possible. Do not room or sold to her for home use has caused an injury or reaction.
let personal fears hold you back from a great career. Many therapists never come
across these situations, simply remember to be in your guard and avoid dangerous Employers Liability
situations. When employing staff you will need to have by law employer’s liability insurance.
Employers are responsible for the health and safety of their employees while they
Dealing with clients are at work, so this insurance is compulsory. Employers liability covers you against
When dealing with clients in a salon you should always speak clearly and concisely claims that may arise from employees if they are injured at work or suffer work

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related illnesses and found that you were liable. What this means for you:
• Conduct a personal data audit. List what data you collect about your clients
Stock & Equipment Insurance either through your website, consultations or through 3rd parties – basically list
You may also wish to ensure your equipment and professional/retail products every single possible way you obtain client data whether that is through your web-
against damage flood or theft. site, in written form or through your mobile phone. Do you have a newsletter fea-
ture on your website? Do you operate an online store and collect customer data
Insurance in order to process orders? Where is that data stored? Does it go directly to your
If you are the owner of a high street salon you will need to seek information about email or stored in a database in your website? Think about whether all the data you
additional insurance policies that may be required. collect is necessary. If you feel that some of the information you currently collect
and store isn’t strictly necessary, you can take steps to stop collecting it and purge
GDPR it from your databases.
The GDPR (General DATA Protection Regulation) came into force on 25th May • You will need to add a privacy policy to your site – many GDPR privacy policy
2018. If you’re Salon/Business collects or stores any type of personal data from templates are available by searching Google. It is suggested that you create a page
people in the EU – you will need to comply with GDPR regardless of the Brexit sta- in your website called PRIVACY POLICY which will appear in your main website
tus at the time. If you do not comply – there can be financial penalties. menu. Your website must be SSL compliant – if it starts with https:// and has a pad-
lock next to the website address in your browser then you are fine… if not, contact
The information you collect could include names, email addresses, contact details, your website provider to upgrade.
postal and digital IP addresses etc. The new regulations are designed to give con- • Contacting all your clients making them aware of GDPR, your new privacy
trol of personal information back to ordinary people, prioritising them over the policy and requesting consent to be able to continue to communicate with them.
interests of businesses. You can either do this my emailing everyone and asking them to reply back confirm-
ing its ok for you to process and store their data or you can ask them to click on a
Therefore, it is important for you to be aware of this new legislation and adhere link requesting them to opt-in using a newsletter facility such as mailchimp.com.
to it accordingly. There are some positives – being compliant shows your audience • Understand what must be done in the event of a breach. GDPR requires the
that you are a trustworthy organisation that respects their privacy and personal data controller to have defined processes in place in the event of a data breach. The
information. data controller has a legal obligation to report a data breach within 72 hours. For
more information about this, find an article on the reporting of data breaches.
• Children. GDPR, for the first time, brings in special protections for children’s
personal data – particularly in relation to commercial internet services such as so-
cial media. If your organisation offers services to children and relies on consent to
collect information about them, you will need to gain the parent or guardian’s con-
sent in order to process the child’s data lawfully. GDPR sets the age at which a child
can give their own consent to this processing at 16. This means that your privacy
information page must be written plainly enough for a child to understand.
• Record Cards. Remember to add your disclaimer to the bottom of your record
cards so that clients can opt in or out of having personal data stored. Here is an
example for you to use:

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 Anatomy &
I agree to YOUR BUSINESS NAME HERE obtaining, holding and using my personal
information for the purposes of this consultation and suitability checking for any fu-
ture treatments I may have. I understand that I have the right to withdraw my con-
sent and have my details destroyed.
Yes/No *Please circle. Initial: Date: Physiology
Further Reading
ICO guide to GDPR. Be sure to download the GDPR 12 Step Guide.

Sterilisation Methods
There are several ways to sterilise and sanitise your tools. Tools must be washed
with warm soapy water before being sterilised, as sterilisation will not remove dirt/
skin or product from the tools.

Sterilisation: Destruction of all living organisms.

Sanitisation: Destruction of some, but not all micro-organisms. Suitable for tools
which are not contaminated by blood or bodily fluids.

Wet Sanitation: Barbicide is a diluted solution in which tools should be left for at
least 15 minutes at room temperature. Barbicide is known to kill fungus, bacteria
and immune diseases such as HIV & hepatitis. This method is ideal for sanitising
tools such as nail clippers, cuticle nippers, scissors and cuticle knives.

Dry Sanitation: UV Cabinets are a suitable method of keeping sterilized tools in a

sterile condition until they need to be used. Implements are simply laid out under a
UV light for 30minutes. The UV only kills bacteria on the surfaces it covers, so tools
will need to be turned to ensure all surfaces are kept sanitised.

Heat Sterilisation: Autoclaves are a fantastic method of sterilisation by method

of bringing implements up to extremely high temperatures of 121 degrees centi-
grade or more in a pressurised steam cabinet to kill any bacteria. This method is
not suitable for plastic implements though – only metal! They are very costly but
are deemed exceptionally good. Another heat method is the glass bead sterilizer,
a smaller cheaper alternative where tools are immersed into small glass beads that
are bought up to a high temperature. Once more this method is only suitable for
metal implements.

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The skin is the largest organ of the body and has many varied functions. It is Stratum Spinosum (Prickle Cell Layer)
self-healing, and self-replacing. Our skin becomes darker in colour to protect *8 to 10 layers of cells bonded together by threads. Blood cells and melanin
from excessive sunlight. Skin is vital in the production of Vitamin D, and regula- move between them. Contain granules of melanin which continue to move up-
tion of our body temperature. ward with the cell

Functions: Stratum Basal (Basal Layer)

• Sensory *Cell Division (mitosis) takes place continually, and the cells move upwards. It
• Heat Regulation takes around 40 days for the cells to move from base layer to the surface. Nutri-
• Absorption ents are obtained from blood supply in the dermis below. Melanocytes produce
• Protection skin pigment known as melanin which helps to protect the skin from harmful rays
• Excretion
• Secretion The Dermis (Middle layer) contains sweat glands, sebaceous glands, nerve fibres,
nerve endings, blood vessels, capillaries and hair follicles. Consists of two layers.
The skin has 3 main layers
• The Epidermis (Top Layer) Papillary Layer
• The Dermis (Middle Layer) Immediately under the epidermis and contains many blood capillaries which bring
• Subcutaneous Layer (Basal Layer). fresh oxygen and nutrients to the epidermis.

The Epidermis is the outermost layer that you can see and varies in thickness. Reticular Layer
This section is subdivided into 5 smaller layers: Contains hair follicles which produce and grow hairs, sebaceous glands which
secrete sebum providing a protective acid mantle for the skin, Apocrine sweat
Stratum Corneum (Horny Layer) glands which produce sweat and are usually attached to hair follicles, eccrine
*25-39 Cells deep, flat dead horny keratinized cells that no longer containing a sweat glands which produce a watery sweat all over the body to help tempera-
nuclei. These cells are continuously rubber away and replaced by new cells from ture control (cooling the body). Receptors, nerves that sense pain, pressure hot &
beneath cold. Collagen & Elastin fibres which gives our skin strength and elasticity.

Stratum Lucidium (Clear Layer) The Subcutaneous (basal layer) is under the dermis and is a layer of adipose tissue
*Clear in appearance, the cells have no nuclei and are almost completely kerati- (fat cells) which act as a food store and help to keep the body warm and protect
nised us.

Stratum Granulosum (Granular Layer) The Acid Mantle

*2 to 3 layers of cells which contain granules of keratin. This is a protein found The acid mantle is a mix of sweat and sebum on the surface of the skin which acts
in skin, hair and nails, horns & hooves. Keratinisation takes place and cells lose as a protective barrier against bacteria. It also acts as a natural moisturiser and
moisture and flatten waterproof covering.

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Adipose Tissue Hair Growth Cycle
Adipose tissue is a type of loose connective tissue containing cells which are Each hair follicle lives in a cycle consisting of a long period of growth followed by
adapted to store fat. It is mostly found under the skin and around the organs. It a relatively short period of rest. During the rest period the hair is still attached to
acts as a reserve of food and helps to maintain body temperature by preventing the hair follicle, but it is not growing. After the resting phase, the hair is shedding,
heat loss. Massage softens the adipose tissue and helps to disperse it into the and a newer hair begins to grow, thus, starting a new hair growth cycle.
deeper layers of tissue and circulatory system. Distribution of the fatty layer
varies according to gender, age and lifestyle. Women tend to have a thicker layer There is a genetic precision of each hair follicle to follow a pattern of growth and
then men. rest. Hair follicles are programmed to stop producing hair and spend more time in
the resting stage with the progression of age.

The growth cycle of a hair consists of 3 stages:

Anagen
Anagen is the growing period of a hair follicle.

Catagen
At the end of the growth period, hair follicles prepare themselves for the resting
phase.

Telogen
Telogen is the resting period of a hair follicle, it is usually 3-4 months in length
and at the end of this period older hairs that have finished their life will fall out
and newer hairs will begin to grow.

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The growing stage constitutes about 90% of the growth cycle of a hair follicle, On the Fitzpatrick Scale, skin types are grouped according to the person’s genetic
while intermediate and shedding stage constitutes only 10% of it. predisposition to melanin, the chemical that gives skin its pigmentation. Derma-
Types of hair tologists use the scale to determine risk factors for things like sunburn, skin can-
cer, scarring risks, and hyperpigmentation.
There are 3 types of hair growing on the human body:
The Fitzpatrick Scale lists six different skin types.
- Vellus
- Terminal
- Intermediate

Vellus hairs
Vellus hairs are short hairs of a centimetre or two long. A vellus hair contains little
or no pigment, and this, is colourless. Vellus hair follicles do not have adjacent se-
baceous glands. At the same time, their shaft does not have a melanin layer. Vellus
hairs are fine and soft and are not cosmetically important.

Terminal hairs
Terminal hairs are long hairs that grow on the scalp and in many people on the
body. They are produced by hair follicles with adjacent sebaceous glands. Terminal
hairs have large, dark pigmented hair fibres that have a medulla at the innermost
part.

Intermediate hairs • Type 1 is the fairest and is often freckled with a naturally reddish under-
An intermediate hair shows the characteristics of both vellus hairs and terminal tone. People with Type 1 skin are likely to have blonde or red hair with porcelain
hairs. Intermediate hairs have a medulla and contain a moderate amount of pig- or very pale skin. They are highly likely to burn after sun exposure but have a low
ment, less than that found in the terminal hair type. During the balding process potential for scarring.
terminal hair follicles and intermediate hair follicles change in such a way that
they no longer produce terminal hairs. In these areas, hair follicles grow vellus • Type 2 skin is fair or cream coloured. People with Type 2 skin tend to have
hairs rather than terminal hairs. light hair and blue or brown eyes and are more likely to burn than tan. The risk of
scarring is low unless the wound is slow to heal.
The Fitzpatrick skin scale
The scale was created by Thomas Fitzpatrick, a former chairman at Harvard Med- • Type 3 skin is slightly darker than Type 2 but still fair with golden skin tones.
ical School. He studied the sun’s effect on the skin - specifically when it came to People with Type 3 skin may have brown or green eyes and tan easily, however,
melanoma. Your skin type can affect many different things, such as proneness to may burn with long exposure to the sun. Type 3 skin has a higher scarring poten-
wrinkles and other visible signs of ageing, likelihood of developing acne, resist- tial than Type 1 or 2.
ance to the penetration of UV radiation and how well scars heal.

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• Type 4 skin is described as olive or caramel toned, typically with hazel or The 14 bones that support
brown eyes and dark hair. Type 4 skin tans very easily and may still burn with long the muscles and organs of the
sun exposure. Type 4 skin scars easily. face are collectively known
as our facial bones.
• Type 5 skin ranges from olive to a rich brown. People with Type 5 usually The facial bones consist of:
have brown eyes, dark hair, and tan very easily. Type 3 skin very rarely burns but • Mandible
has a high risk of scarring. • maxillae (singular:
maxilla)
• Type 6 skin ranges from deep mahogany to very dark brown. People with • Vomer
Type 6 skin usually have dark brown eyes and black hair, tan quickly and easily • palatine bones
but are at extremely high risk of abnormal scarring. • nasal bones
• zygomatic bones
• nasal conchae (singu-

Anatomy of the face.

lar: concha)
• lacrimal bones
• Temporal bone
Our face shape is created by the underlying bone and muscle structure. The skin • Orbit
is the largest living organ of the body and therefore should be looked after and
kept well presented.

The skin is underlined by the skull.

A skull is composed of two main parts - the cranium and the mandible.
The cranium is a series of joined bones, which allow for very little movement, and
the mandible is the moving lower jaw.

Cranial bones:
• Frontal bone
• Two parietal bones
• Sphenoid bone

Collectively, these bones provide a solid bony wall around the brain, with only a
few openings for nerves and blood vessels.

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Skin Disorders

Skin Cancer
Varying skin growths. Skin cancer generally develops in the Epider-
mis, so the growth can usually be seen. Signs are changes to the
skin that do not heal. If there is any doubt what so ever you should
refer your client to see their G.P and avoid treating until you have
written consent from their practitioner

Warts
Small growths on the skin caused by the human papilloma virus.
They are characterized by a cauliflower type appearance. Warts are
a contagious viral condition.

As a therapist you are not qualified to diagnose a medical condition and there-
fore if you are in any doubt whether a treatment should be carried out you should
refer the client to their GP for advice.

28 Rounded Magazine Vol.13 Dermaplaning 29

Scabies Cold Sores
Looks like tiny insect bites Small blisters usually around
or spots. It can be extremely the mouth on the lips. They
itchy and is caused by small are caused by the herpes sim-
mites burrowing under the plex virus. Highly contagious
skin. Scabies can be caught by close contact
very easily.

Ringworm Conjunctivitis
A fungal skin infection. Itchy Bacterial infection of the
red raised scaly patches in tissue that covers the front of
the characteristic ring shape. the eye (conjunctiva). Itch-
Spreads easily from one per- iness, redness, swelling and
son to another. weeping. Easily spread.

Head Lice Eczema

Wingless insects that are Causes dry, red, itchy and
grayish brown in colour. They sometimes flaky skin. Common
grow to aprox 3mm in length. behind the knees, elbows, side
They are spread by head to of the neck and around the
head contact. eyes. The condition may be
irritated by some products.

Impetigo Dermatitis
A bacterial skin infection of Inflammation of the skin that
the surface skin layers causing occurs when it comes into
blistering and scabbing. High- contact with certain substanc-
ly contagious. es. It can be Allergic or Irri-
tant.

30 Rounded Magazine Vol.13 Rounded Magazine Vol.13 31

 The Consultation
The Consultation process is extremely important before any aesthetic procedure
takes place. This provides the opportunity to discuss with the client the
treatment they are seeking and their desired outcome.

It is also essential to accumulate and ascertain information in relation to the

clients’ health, medical history, and medication records.

The salon or clinic will generally have a generic form for completion which will
guide you through the relevant questions and information required before the
procedure takes place and additionally the client must sign a consent form – this
usually indicates that they understand the procedure and any adverse reactions
(if any). This is legally required so must be completed.
It should also include a physical examination of the treatment area, notes
regarding any features that may affect the treatment and taking photographs can
greatly assist in the assessment process.

Below is a template example you wish to refer to:

32 Dermaplaning Rounded Magazine Vol.13 33

34 Rounded Magazine Vol.13 Dermaplaning 35
 Dermaplaning is also effective as a pre-treatment for skin peels and enzyme treat-
ments and increases penetration of active ingredients in both professional and
home care products.

It is effective as a foundation for makeup application.

FAQ’s

Practitioner Skills and Qualifications required to perform the procedure

They can be one of the following:

• A semi-permanent make-up artist
• Doctor, dentist, nurse
• Level 2 trained beauty therapist
What technique is used for the procedure?
It is safe procedure using a specialised sterile surgical instrument. The practition-
er prepares the site to be treated the skin is held taught (by the practitioner) and
is performed by gently scraping the skin with the blade at a “45 degree” angle

Is it safe?
Dermaplaning It is extremely safe when performed by a qualified practitioner

Will the Vellous hair return but thicker than before?

Definition: It is the controlled scraping of the skin using a sterile, surgical blade The Vellous hair will return after approximately 4 weeks but it will not be thicker
held at a 45-degree angle for the removal of keratinized cells on the outer stratum as this is physiologically impossible
corneum and fine vellous hair. In effect it is an exfoliation of the skin by means
of physical/ mechanical means and a procedure that is extremely safe when per- Will any bleeding occur during the procedure?
formed by a skilled practitioner using the right tools and skills to provide a clients’ This is possible as nicks and cuts and even excessive scraping may cause some
desired outcome. bleeding to occur. It is essential that the practitioner has adequate training and
practise as well as understanding what is the correct tool to use before proceed-
What does the procedure involve and achieve? ing to deal with prospective clients.

It involves removing the outermost layer of vellous hair and dead skin cells which Treatment Areas – where is the treatment applied to?
leads to a rejuvenating of the skin. It also impacts on treating fine lines and wrin- The procedure can only be applied to the face. It cannot be applied to the neck,
kles and scars caused by acne and minimising their appearance. chest, or eyelids. Some student practitioners may practice on the arms or legs as
the skin is tougher in these areas.

36 Rounded Magazine Vol.13 Dermaplaning 37

How often can this procedure be performed? Positive and Negative Actions
Frequency of Treatment
The procedure can be repeated every 3-4 weeks, this removes 2-3 weeks of dead
There are actions that should be What are the actions to avoid?
skin cells that are present. The skin has a natural cycle of 30 days and treatment
observed which are as follows: • When preparing the skin do not
should allow for this period to pass.
• Using the correct tool use alcohol or acetone
(Dermaplaning blades have been • Use only the Dermaplaning
Combined Treatment(s)
specifically designed for the treatment) Blades – other blades have other
If the client has elected to have a chemical peel, then dermaplaning will be an
• Use the correct angle when purposes
excellent option for pre-treating the skin.
performing the procedure (“45 • Use the blade for ONE procedure
degrees) only then dispose of it accordingly
Will Dermaplaning cause the skin to peel?
• Preparing the skin for treatment • Ensure that the blade is disposed
The treatment does not cause this – when combined with a chemical peel the
– ensure this done correctly of immediately after use (and do not
exfoliation occurs because of the latter treatment.
• Dispose of the blades (sharps) in leave other blades out)
the appropriate containers • The blade should not be used to
Who can be treated?
• Encourage the client to provide remove terminal hair
Dermaplaning is not restricted to certain skin types although clients’ over the
feedback as to the pressure being • If the client has a mole avoid
age of 35 are the most suitable candidates for the treatment and they return for
applied from the blade and the dermaplaning in that area
repeat treatments. Clients favour the treatment almost to the point of addiction
practitioners bracing hand • Ensure the correct pressure is
as it provides the outcome they are seeking. NB: For male clients they should be
• Advise the client to abstain from used for the procedure (Blade and
advised that only non-beard areas can be treated.
chewing any gum (some clients may bracing hand)
feel less anxious by doing this, but it
will hinder the procedure)
Is Dermaplaning a painful treatment?
Absolutely not, it is surprisingly relaxing! The 45 Degree Angle
The treatment does not induce any pain and clients find it restful and relaxing

Dermaplaning and Microdermabrasion – a comparison

Both these treatments are exfoliation applications the procedures differ in that
Dermaplaning removes more skin but is a gentler treatment process.

Are there advantages of Dermaplaning compared to Microdermabrasion?

• If the client suffers with spider veins (Telangiectasia) then Microdermabra-
sion may weaken these due to the suction involved in the treatment.
• *Dermaplaning removes vellous hairs which provides a better foundation
for the application of make-up providing a better result and it assists in the pene-
tration of products into the skin when using skin care products.

38 Dermaplaning Dermaplaning 39
What is a 45-degree angle and why is this important for dermaplaning? • The bleeding should cease after 30 seconds for up to 2 minutes
• The practitioner must remain calm and assure the client
Ensuring that the practitioner is employing the correct hand position and the • The treatment can continue once the bleeding has stopped (taking care to
correct handling of the blade will provide the optimal result of the treatment. avoid the affected area)

If the blade is not correctly handled (held too far down the handle and further Follow Up Procedure
away from the blade the practitioner will not have sufficient or adequate control • Record the incident in the relevant Accident Book and on the client’s notes
of the blade. Using the correct technique, handling further up the handle and • Advise management / supervisor
closer to the blade will enable a more professional completion of the treatment. • Always maintain records accurately so that all parties can refer to the rele-
The treatment will be accurate and precise, and the procedure will take less time. vant information recorded
• Make an appointment to call the client the following day to check on their
The angle employed is essential for maximum results and at “45 degrees” will well being and encourage the client by assuring them that their skin is showing
mean fewer strokes or passes over the skin – this means the client is more visible improvement
comfortable. As the face has many contours maintaining the angle will take
practice as adjustments will be necessary to accommodate this. Contraindications T
he consultation process should have recorded any contraindications that the
Be Prepared – accidents may occur client has indicated but it is good practice just to confirm with the client on the
Whatever the treatment the client is receiving accidents occur and your response following conditions to avoid any adverse or serious reactions
will determine whether the client returns for other or repeat treatments. Cuts,
nicks, laser burn, skin loss from eyebrow waxing or an allergic reaction – the • Diabetes – not controlled by diet or medication
practitioner must always be prepared. • Cancer – currently undergoing treatment
• Accutane or Isotretinoin use within 12 months
The practitioner must always be professional and respond to a situation • Blood thinners
effectively and swiftly. • History of bleeding problems
• Higher dosages or frequency of Aspirin
When performing Dermaplaning a clients unexpected movement or an error by • Acne – grade 3 or above
the practitioner may result in bleeding so it essential to follow protocol. • Pustular acne that is red and irritated – avoid area
• Cystic acne – avoid area
Your Response when an incident occurs • Retin-A within 5 days
• Bleeding occurs – immediately stop the treatment • Chemical Peel or laser treatment – within 14 days
• Apply appropriate pressure to the area and gauze for 20-30 seconds • Cold sores
• Once the bleeding has stopped the procedure can continue • Moles & Skin tags – avoid area
• If the bleeding continues elevate the clients head so its higher than her • Sunburn or windburned skin
heart
• Apply styptic powder to the site and continue with applying pressure and
gauze

40 Dermaplaning Dermaplaning 41
This is an express Dermaplaning Facial: This will keep the client from talking and helps you create and easier surface to
work on. If you find the client has course hairs on the chin, use your tweezers to
• Cover the eyes with dry eye pads or goggles. Position and turn on mag remove them first. It is best to not dermaplane these course hairs.
lamp. Be sure to wear gloves with dermaplaning. As you work, gently wipe blade on gauze to remove the dead skin and vellous
• Begin on the forehead by holding the skin taught with your thumb and in- hair. It is common for the skin to appear as if its “snowing” especially with clients
dex finger with the hand and the Dermaplane blade in the other. using Retin-A. You can show this to the client so she can see what you have re-
Always work within 1 ½ to 2” space between your fingers. Move the blade away moved.
from you first to make sure the blade glides easily. Gently back and forth method-
ically repositioning as you go. When you are finished dermaplaning, be sure to check for any missed areas espe-
cially on the cheeks and upper lip
The Protocol – pre-treatment

Prior to treatment it is important that the clients’ skin is prepared for the Derma- Optional Extras that can be applied following treatment:
planing procedure – the following should be adhered too:
1. Extractions (optional) The NuPeel will help congested and asphyxiated skin
1. Cleanse the skin with a foaming cleanser (oil skin type) if the client is wear- by removing the barrier that is trapping oil, dirt, and impurities in the follicle.
ing makeup then a creamier cleanser should be applied These will easily extract now.
2. Cleansed for a second time with a foaming cleanser (oil skin type) although 2. Apply Mask (optional)
all skin types are suitable for this. 3. Tone skin (optional)
3. Apply DERMAPLANE PRO PREP – using a small piece of gauze 4. Apply Vitamin C serum (optional) Apply Vitamin C serum (optional)
4. Dermaplane 5. Apply eye cream, moisturiser and spf
5. Apply THERMADERM ENZYME and massage this for removal of any re- 6. Apply mineral makeup (optional)
maining dry skin
6. Towel off with a warm towel
7. Apply a serum and moisturiser of the client’s choice The client may choose, or the practitioner suggest:
8. Apply SPF • Enzymes
9. The clients’ eyes should be covered (eye pads or goggles) • Peels
10. Begin on the forehead by holding the skin taught with your thumb and in- • LED
dex finger with the hand and the Dermaplane blade in the other. • Microcurrent
• Masks
Always work within 1 ½ to 2” space between your fingers. Move the blade away
from you first to make sure the blade glides easily. Gently back and forth method-
ically repositioning as you go.

When you get to the upper lip; have client place her tongue between teeth and
upper lip. Lower lip and chin; have client place her tongue between teeth and
lower lip.
42 Dermaplaning Dermaplaning 43
Use the diagram to note the sequence and direction of blade movement.

Equipment Required for the Treatment

• Eye make-up remover
• Cleanser
• Hot towel cabinet (optional)
• Dermaplane Pro Prep Solution
• Gauze
• Cotton wool pads
• Gloves
• Eye pads/Sunnies goggles
• Dermaplaning tool and blade
• Styptic Powder/Pencil
• Mask
• Serums/Moisturiser/SPF
• Mirror
• Enzyme/Peel/LED/Microcurrent (optional)

NOTES:

44 Dermaplaning Dermaplaning 45
FAQ and responses to experienced problems Question: “How long should the dermaplaning portion of the
treatment take, once I’m up to speed?”
when treating clients.
Solution: As you practice, note the time you start and end just
Question: “I feel like I’m twisting my body trying to find the the dermaplaning portion of the treatment. You should see that
right angle.” the time gradually diminishes with practice. A skilled practition-
er usually can dermaplane in 12-15 minutes. If the client has
Solution: This is a common concern, especially in hard to reach more hollowing and angular features, dermaplaning will take
areas or places where the blade does not fit as easily. Line up longer than on younger clients with fuller rounded features.
your starting point (i.e., the earlobe) and your end point (i.e., the
chin). Draw a line that extends past the end point and align the Question: “I’m so fatigued at the end of the day. Is this nor-
centre of your body to that point. In this example, the centre mal?”
of your body will be near the client’s elbow. Now when you
dermaplane, you will not be twisting. Solution: It is normal to feel fatigue at the end of the day, es-
pecially if you have not focused on ergonomics. Your body
Question: “The hair isn’t coming off. Is the blade dull?” positions throughout the day can either lead to fatigue, sore-
ness and tension or leave you feeling energized and comforta-
Solution: The blades stay sharp so only one is needed per ble. Be aware that twisting, leaning, shrugging your shoulders,
treatment. Your angle is probably a little off. Make sure you hanging your head downward and scrunching your body are
are dermaplaning at a 45-degree angle. You may also need to all positions that are detrimental to your health. If you need
dermaplane in more than one direction to remove the hair. This help with proper ergonomics, please call our office so we may
is often the case on the cheeks. Contouring around the mouth assist you. Client positioning, as well as how you position your-
will remove hair along the vermillion border of the lips. self throughout the treatment is essential to maintaining good
health.
Question: “How do I get my client to hold still? I get nervous
when she talks that I’m going to nick her.”

Solution: Starting on the forehead will allow her to talk during

the beginning of the dermaplaning portion of the service. This
is the best time to explain the benefits of dermaplaning and
get her feedback on bracing, pressure, etc. As you move down
the face, it is okay to remind her that you need her help. All
she needs to do is focus on relaxing and remaining as still as
possible.

46 Dermaplaning Dermaplaning 47
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