EX! 1 FABRIC ANALYSIS ¥ OBJECT:- 1. Reproduction of same fabric. 2. Modification or development of new fabric. 3. To find the cost of fabric and to produce an economical fabric. ¥ APPARATUS:- . Counting glass/ pick glass. . Counting needle. . Graph paper or pointed paper. . Scissor. . Calculator. . Seale. . Pencil. Beasley’s balance. » Chow vel tek Clem ete bok Asqiaw vhect Any disie Shedv¥ ANALYSED PARTICULARS:- Finished EPI:- It is the number of warp threads or ends present in one inch of fabric, 2. Finlshed PPI:- The number of weft or picks present in one inch of fabric. 3. Weave:- the order of interlacement of warp and weft. 4. Crimp: - the waviness in yarn due to bending or interlacement is called crimp. The crimp is present in both type of yarn-warp and weft. a. Warp crimp: - waviness present in warp threads due to interlacement of weft. b. Weft crimp: - waviness present in weft threads due to interlacement of warp. 5. Count: - it is a,numbering system which defines the fineness of yarn. There are 2 systems in which count can be classified:- a. direct system:- in this system the count of yarn is expressed as the number of weight units in one length unit. E.g. denier, tax. b. indirect system: - in this system count of yarn is expressed as number of length units in one weight units e.g. English cotton count, metric count6. Ply or twist of yarn: - number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn is known as ply of yarn. Yarn may be double, triple or four plied. ' Generally we use plied yarn in warp and weft but sometimes single ply yarn may be used in weft due to lesser cost. & Twist: - number of turns per unit length of yarn is called twist. The yarn may be twisted in 2 directions: - a. “S” twist: - if yarn is twisted in clock wise direction, then it is called “s” twist. b.“Z” twist; - if yarn is twisted in anti clock wise direction then it is called “Z” twist. 7, Fabric wt/mt™ (in gm):- weight of one meter length &one meter width fabric is known as fabric wt/mt” or GSM(gram per square mt.) - 8.Fabric weight / runnig meter : - weight of one meter lenght and full width of fabric is called as fabric weight/running meter. 9. Cloth length : - the length of cloth is called as cloth length. According to requirement of buyer, length of fabric is taken.10. Cloth width: - the width of cloth is called as cloth width.width is also set according to the type of cloth and end use. For Suiting - 58 inches Shirting — 36 inches Towel - 24 inches v 11. Warp and weft pattern : - the order of different color and count used in warp and weft patterning. ¥ METHOD OF FABRIC ANALYSIS : - 1. Identify warp and weft : - a. With the help of selvedge: - threads which are parallel to selvedge are warp threads & those which are perpendicular to salvedge are weft threads. b.Reed mark :; - due to a particular denting order the warp threads which passes through one dent makes group and are closed to each other and due to wire of reed there is a gap between two sets of adjacent group of threads. When we obserbe the fabric in light, the light passed through this gap and appears as warp wise lines or streaks called reed mark. . Generally EPI > PPI Because lesser the ppi higher will be the production. °d. Weft crimp % : - weft crimp % > warp crimp % because warp threads are at high tension as compared to weft & Epi > ppi. 2. Finished EPI: - a. By using counting glass: - (i) After finding the direction of warp and weft threads, we put the sample along warp direction. (ii) Then put the counting glass along weft direction. (ili) Now count the warp or ends. (iv) Take 3 readings by repeating this process. b. By using scale: - (i) Identify the direction of warp. (ii) A scale is put in weft direction. (iii) Remark one inch length from last end of fabric. (iv) Count threads by counting needle . (v) Take 3 readings by repeating this process.3. Finished PPI: - It can measure same as finished EPI method but the major difference is that the finished PPI, counting glass or scale are put along warp direction: 4.Measurement of ply and twist of warp (a) Ply: - (i) take warp yarn & un twist it by hand. (ii) if two single threads come then yarn may be doubled or more plied. (iii) if we find that by untwisting these single thread, fiber comes out then it is called single plied. (iv) if the ply is double then we should untwist single threads also. (b) Twist (i) if twist is clockwise then it is “S” twist. (ii) if twist is anti-clockwise then it is “Z” twist. 5. Ply and twist of weftLo Same as for warp method. 6.Measurement of warp crimp % (i) mark 10 em along warp thread in fabric. (ii) cut it by scissor. (iii)take out one end & stretch it until crimp is removed. (iv) now measure it. Warp crimp % = (straightening length — initial Jength) |, initial length 7. Weft crimp % Same as warp crimp method. 8. Measurement of warp and weft count (a) take required length by using “template” according to system of count. = (b) take the number of warp and weft threads of required length according to assumed-count. (c) put these threads on hook of Beasley’s balance. oes (d) the number of threads which balance it will give us the resultant measured count.ee Y LOOM PARTICULARS 1. Reed : - (a) loom EPI = : F* EPI (1-weft crimp %) 100 (b) reed count = 2* L.EPI Ends/dent 2. Loom PPI = f* PPI (1- warp crimp % 100 3. Reed width = cloth width(1+weft crimp %) 100 4. Tape length: - It is the length of warp which is used to produce a fabric having particular length. T.L. = Cloth length (1+ warp crimp % ) 100 5. Body ends Total dents = R.C(S-P.S.) /2 * R.WSelvedge dents =RC * Sw 2 Total Selvedge dents= Body dents= Body ends = 2 * selvedge ‘A. 4 total dents- total selvedge dents body dents * ends/dent in body 6. Selvedge ends : ~ total selvedge dents * ends/dent in selvedge 7. Total ends : - body ends + selvedge ends. Types of selvedges: - (i) Plane selvedge which is made on shuttle looms. (ii) tuck-in-selvedge: - on shuttleless, tucking needle is provided in loom which takes the projecting small ends of weft in selvedges, Selvedge width: - With monogram —% inches. Without monogram — ¥ inches.Calculation of Weight 1. Fabric weightRunning mt Weight of warp + Weight of (@) Weight of warp (gm) = Total Ends*Tape 840*Warp count th { Cotton count = Length in yards 840* weight in Lb } : i W. of warp “\Total Ends*Tape Length* 1.0936'453.6 840* warp count c = 0.59*Total Ends*Tape length - Warp count (b) We 2. Fabric weight in gm/mt.sq.(GSM) = Fabric weight(Running mt.) Reed width(inch ag.) = Fabric ht(Running mt.)*39.37 Reed width(vt.aw) Gch VIJAY GAURCalculation of Weight 1. Fabric weight/Running mt. = Weight of warp + Weight of weft (a) Weight of warp (gm) = Total Ends “Tape length 840*Warp count {Cotton count = Length in yards 840°weight in Lb. } ngth* 1.0936*453.6 Is*Tape Lé - _840*warp count _ fi 59*Total Ends*Tape length / W. of warp = Total (6) Weight of weit (gm) = 0.59*Ppi*Reed width *eloth leneth ‘Weft count 2, Fabric weight in gm/mt.sq.(GSM) = = Fabric weight(Running mt.) Reed width(imelr sg.) ™7* = Fabric weight(Running mt.)*39.37 Reed width(wremg) inebv - VIJAY GAUR