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 READ IMMEDIATELY!

RECEIVING INSTRUCTIONS
Thank you for ordering your quality plant stock from Nourse Farms!
Check your plants immediately upon receiving them. If you have any
questions or problems, please call right away.
BEFORE you plant, please read the related sections of this planting guide.
• Planting should be done as soon as possible after you have received your plants.
We will always work with you to get your plants to you when your local weather and
soil conditions are suitable. For those reading this booklet prior to shipping, if your local
conditions are not suitable for planting, please call as soon as possible to delay your plant
shipment – at least 4 business days before your scheduled ship date.

• A light frost or snow will not hurt your dormant plants, but your soil should be around
50º F when you plant, to spur development.

• If you cannot plant on the day of delivery, small orders can go in the crisper of your
refrigerator. Large orders should go into a cooler set at 28º - 32º F. DO NOT FREEZE!

• When your plants arrive, check the roots for moisture. With the exception of
asparagus roots, it is important to keep roots moist, not soaked, and cool without
temperature fluctuations, until you can plant. Lightly sprinkle them with water if needed,
close the bag or box. Keep asparagus roots cool and dry!

• Do not store more than seven days. The sooner you plant the more successful your
planting will be!

6 STRAWBERRIES
Table of Contents

9 BRAMBLES

14 ASPARAGUS

16 HORSERADISH

17 RHUBARB

18 BLUEBERRIES

21 CURRANTS & GOOSEBERRIES

23 ELDERBERRIES

2 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com

 Six important elements for
growing plants successfully

1 A sunny, weed-free location: Plants should have a minimum of 6 - 8 hours

of sunlight exposure. Early morning sun is preferred. Thoroughly weed before
planting and use appropriate weeding techniques to keep the planting area
weed free.

2 Soil: All of Nourse Farms’ plants grow well in a wide variety of soils. However,
the soil should have at least 2% - 3% organic matter, for best growth. If the soil is
not well-drained, planting in raised beds may be necessary, though risk of cold
damage can increase. With any planting method, these two factors are critical.

3 Site Preparation: It is best to have the site prepared for planting prior to receipt
of your order, so that you can plant upon arrival. Nutrient and pH requirements
are not the same for all plants. You should have your soil tested before planting
to know your soil pH and fertility. Contact your local cooperative extension office
for information on taking soil samples, and for assistance in interpreting test
results. Specify the crop that you plan to grow to get the best recommendations.

4 Irrigation: Plants need adequate soil moisture to grow and fruit well. Water
plants thoroughly when you transplant and again once more within the
planting week. While it is critical to maintain proper moisture levels during
the establishment period, you must also irrigate regularly to maintain proper
moisture levels throughout the season. Please note: if you are planting in raised
beds, it is essential that you provide drip irrigation. Overhead irrigation may not
be sufficient for maintaining proper soil moisture. Plants should receive 1” - 3” of
water each week. Irrigate 1 - 3 times per week rather than every day.

5 Plant early in the spring: Plant as early as possible in the spring, after the soil
has warmed to about 50°F. Natural spring rains are an excellent aid in getting
your plants off to the best start and warmer soil encourages the plants to grow.
Plants will fail to flourish or fail to grow if roots are too deep or too shallow and if
soil is not pressed firmly around the roots. Fall planting of small fruit plants is not
recommended for the majority of the Northeast and Midwest.

6 Rotation of land: Avoid planting strawberries or brambles in soils where

previous crops have included strawberries, brambles, potatoes, tomatoes,
eggplants or peppers. These crops may harbor soil pathogens, such as
Verticillium and Phytophthora, and nematodes which may affect the health and
growth of your new plants.

Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 3

 Avoid Common Planting Mistakes
• Plants will fail to flourish if roots are too deep or too shallow.
• Take care that soil is packed firmly around the plant roots.
• Do not plant near wild plants, or near plants whose origins are unknown.
• Maintain adequate moisture levels throughout plant establishment.
• Water well 1 - 3 times a week, NOT EVERY DAY.
• Avoid fertilizer burn. *Wait until plants are established before applying conventional fertilizer, 4 - 6
weeks.
• We advise you to plant all the roots of the plant - cutting roots decreases support for new growth.
• All of our plants prefer full sun and will not thrive in shady locations. A half day of sun or more is
necessary for the healthiest plants and to help ripen your berries.
• For balanced nutrition, we recommend 10-10-10 or an equivalent ‘complete’ or ‘balanced’ fertilizer
formulation for all of our plants, except blueberry plants which need ammonium sulfate or acid-
loving plant fertilizer.
• Always consider equipment access when planning your plant and row spacing.
• Avoid planting in soils where previous crops have included strawberries, brambles, potatoes,
tomatoes, eggplants or peppers. These crops may harbor soil pathogens which may harm your new
plants.
• Remove dropped and over-ripe fruit to reduce pest and disease pressure.
*Espoma Bio-Tone Starter fertilizer may be used at time of planting as it is designed not to burn plants, if
used as directed.
Strawberries
• Do not mulch using materials like decayed or wet leaves that tend to mat and can smother plants.
• Do not renovate day-neutral strawberries.
Brambles
• Caution should be taken to prevent the roots from being planted too deeply.
• You may mulch lightly with clean straw during the planting year but beware, new growth must be
able to develop easily from the roots! Do not mulch brambles beyond the first year. See details in
the raspberry section on Page 10.
• Do not mow summer-bearing raspberries; they fruit on 2 year-old (over-wintered) canes. You only
prune out the canes which bore fruit during that growing season, once harvest is complete.
Asparagus
• Be careful not to damage emerging spears when cutting below the soil surface during harvest.
• Asparagus requires very sweet soil—be sure that soil pH is at 7.2 or higher.
• Do not mix compost with the soil until plants are growing. Use compost as an amendment, mixing
it thoroughly with soil, as you backfill your trench.
• Do not soak prior to planting.
Blueberries
• Blueberries require an acidic soil with a pH between 4.5 - 4.8. A pH of 5.0 or higher is too high!
• Too high of a soil pH can cause stunting and decrease in productivity, sometimes permanently.
• Often, soil must be acidified; amend with elemental sulfur the year prior to planting.
• Caution: Excessive sulfur can be toxic! Do a soil test and apply the proper amount of sulfur.
Don’t guess. See details on page 19.
• Do not apply fertilizer close to your planting date. Blueberries can be adversely affected by
potassium chloride. Do not use fertilizer that contains it. We do not recommend aluminum sulfate
for fertilizing or acidifying. Use sulfur to acidify the soil and 17-6-6 or ammonium sulfate to fertilize.
• Do not use leaves or sawdust as mulch. Either can limit or prevent rains from reaching the soil and
plant roots.

Viterra Agri-gel™ is a product we use when planting to help maintain moisture and
establish plants with little stress. We have been using this product for several years with
excellent results, and carry Viterra Agri-gel™ in our accessories product line.

4 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com

 S T R AW B E R R I E S

ATTENTION! AT-A-GLANCE
Avoid planting strawberries in pH:
soils where previous crops have 6.5 - 6.8
included strawberries, brambles,
potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants or Spacing:
peppers. These crops may harbor 12” - 18” in the row
soil pathogens, which will affect 3’ - 4’ between rows
the health and performance of
your new plants.

Planting
Plant as soon as possible in
the spring, after the soil has
warmed to 50°F. Planting
at the correct depth is very
important. Dig a hole deeply
enough that you are able
to lower the plant into the
ground without bending ROOTS BENT
the roots. Set plants in
TOO HIGH
the ground with the roots
straight down. Make certain CORRECT
that the plants are set with TOO DEEP Courtesty of Ohio State University Extension

the middle of the crown

level with the top of the soil. We advise not to cut any of the roots off your plants. Planting
with Nourse Farms’ Strawberry Planting Tool ensures good soil contact and that the roots are
straight.

Take care that soil is pressed firmly, but not hard-packed around the plant roots. Be sure
not to cover the crown. Check the soil level within a week or so, as the soil will likely settle,
leaving roots exposed.

Avoid covering crowns with soil while you hoe, weed, and cultivate throughout the season.

Irrigation
Water thoroughly after planting and maintain good moisture throughout the season.
Strawberries do best when they get 1” - 2” of rainfall or equivalent irrigation each week,
depending on soil type. If irrigation is not available, select a site with good water-holding
capacity, but avoid wet soils. Strawberries do poorly under drought conditions.

Fertilization/Soil Preparation
Avoid fertilizer burn. Applying fertilizer near the planting date leads to burning of plant
leaves and roots. Being too generous with fertilizer will also be detrimental. You may mix
½ lb. of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet into the soil, at least 2 - 3 weeks prior to planting.
Otherwise, do not fertilize until your plants are established (about six weeks after planting).
Fertilize June-bearing varieties with ½ lb. 10-10-10 per 100 square feet again in July and in
August. Day-neutral varieties should be fertilized weekly or bi-weekly once established to
maintain growth and fruit production.

Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 5

 S T R AW B E R R I E S

Weed Control
Prepare your site prior to planting. Remove weeds throughout the growing season. After
planting, weekly cultivation removes weeds when they are small so they do not have
a chance to compete with your plants. A scuffle hoe works well for this type of work.
Strawberry roots are shallow. Be careful not to damage the roots while you are removing
weeds. Check with your local agricultural extension before using chemicals.
Proper mulching aids in weed control, while keeping fruit clean, conserving moisture, and
adding humus to the soil. Mulch with a loose, acid-free and weed-free material such as
straw or salt marsh hay. Leaves or grass clippings are not recommended, as they can mat;
smothering plants and can harbor pests.
Preparing for Winter
Mulching is necessary in most northern states for winter protection of the crowns. Quick
freezing and thawing can cause serious crown damage which may not only affect yield,
but plant survival. An adequate layer of mulch mitigates fluctuating temperatures. Apply
approximately 4” of straw or salt marsh hay after plants have started to go dormant or after
6 - 10 hard frosts. Remove mulch in early spring before new growth starts. You can move the
mulch to the aisles to keep weeds at bay and keep mud from splashing onto the fruit. You
must cover the plants with straw again if cold temperatures are forecasted. A frost blanket or
row cover can provide some degree of protection in the spring also. They must be removed
by the time plants begin to bloom.
See page 8 for specific instructions about June-Bearing and Everbearing/Day-Neutral
strawberry varieties.

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 S T R AW B E R R I E S

Strawberry Planting Diagrams

Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 7

 S T R AW B E R R I E S

June-Bearing Strawberries (Such as Jewel and Honoeye)

Establishment Year
Pinch off all the flower buds in the first year of growth. This allows plants to put energy
into becoming established and in turn, yield a larger crop the first bearing year. It will also
encourage runner production and support winter survival. You may let your rows fill in by
allowing 2 - 4 daughters (runners) to take root on each side of the mother plant. Evenly
space the plantlets in the bed 5” - 8” apart, lightly pressing them into the soil to make sure
there is good soil contact around their roots. Cut off any additional runners that form during
the season. Over-crowded beds will produce small berries and can have more disease
problems.
Succeeding Years and Renovation
A process called ‘renovation’ is performed on June-bearing strawberry beds IMMEDIATELY
AFTER HARVEST. This helps to keep plants healthy and productive over the years.
• Do not renovate in the establishment year.
• As soon as all the berries have been harvested, mow off the leaves or clip them to about 3”
tall. Use your lawn mower set at the highest setting and collect the clippings in the mower
bag or rake them off to help reduce disease. Take care not to cut or injure the crowns!
• Reduce crowding in the bed. Rototill the edges of the beds to narrow the bed width to
12” - 18”.
• Do not let additional daughter plants root.
• We recommend application of 1 lb. - 1½ lbs. of 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft. at renovation. For
most efficient use of fertilizer, apply about 2/3 that rate at renovation and 1/3 in September.
• Complete the renovation process with a good watering to get new growth off to a good
start. Continue to maintain adequate moisture through the remainder of the growing
season.

Everbearing/Day-Neutral Strawberries (Such as Evie-2 and Seascape)

PlantingYear
• Day-neutral varieties can be planted in a single row with 12” between plants.
• We suggest ½ lb. - 1 lb. of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq. ft. be worked into the soil at least
2 - 3 weeks before planting.
• Pinch off the first flush of flowers, 3 - 4 weeks after setting out your plants. You can let the
plants develop fruit midsummer through October.
• Four weeks after planting, side-dress with 1 lb. - 1 ½ lbs. of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq.
ft. After 8 weeks, begin weekly or biweekly application of a soluble fertilizer to maintain
growth and fruit production.
• We recommend that you remove all the runners during the life of the planting. This will
allow the plants to become well established.
• Hot weather will impact strawberry production. With day-neutrals, the impact can be
tempered with good watering practices. The cooler temperatures of autumn will bring a
return of berry size and yield.
Succeeding Years
DO NOT RENOVATE DAY-NEUTRAL or
EVERBEARING STRAWBERRIES.
• Commercial day-neutral plantings are typically grown as an
annual but plants can be overwintered for a second harvest
season, though berry size can decrease.
• After new growth starts, begin weekly or biweekly application
of a soluble fertilizer, same as during planting year.
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 BRAMBLES
R A S P B E R RIES & BL ACK BERRIES

ATTENTION! AT-A-GLANCE
Avoid planting brambles in pH: 6.5 - 6.8
soils where previous crops In-row spacing:
have included strawberries,
12” - 18” Red & yellow raspberries
raspberries, potatoes, tomatoes,
20” - 24” Black raspberries
eggplants or peppers. These
3’ - 4’ Blackberries
crops may harbor soil
pathogens, which will affect the Between rows:
health and performance of your 8’ - 12’ depending on machinery
new plants.

Planting
If the soil is not well-drained, raise the soil height of the planting rows or build 12” - 18” wide
raised beds.
Plant as soon as possible in the spring, after the soil has
warmed to 50°F. Planting too early, in cool, damp soil can delay
development or cause roots to rot. Do not fertilize at planting.
Planting at the correct depth is important. Your planting rows
should be measured and maintained at no more than a 12” - 18”
width.
When planting dormant, bare-root plants, use a hoe to make
a 2” deep trench the length of the bed. Lay the roots horizontally
along the trench, 2” deep. You may need to position some canes Dormant red and yellow raspberry
deeper than 2” so that all roots on the cane are covered, still
laying the length of roots parallel to the soil surface at the 2” depth. Cover them immediately.
The fine root system should not be allowed to dry out during the planting process, which
can happen very quickly on a warm day. CAUTION: If set too deeply, they will not easily
send up new canes from the roots as they must.
Plant nursery matured or tissue-culture plugs ½” - 1” deeper than the soil level of
the plant.

Tips
• We suggest soaking the plants for up to 1 - 2 hours prior to planting, keeping the plants
in the pail of water as you plant. Agri-gel™ and BioSafe Disease Control can be added to
water. Do not soak plants more than 2 hours.
• Take care while planting to keep roots at a 2” depth to allow easy sucker development
from the roots.
• Use of a product such as Agri-gel™ will help support the plants through short dry spells.
• Do not mulch beyond planting year as it can impede new cane growth and cause root
and crown rot.

Planting Year
New growth may not appear for 5 - 6 weeks. The cane portion of the plant may never leaf
out; expect most, if not all new growth to come from the roots. If you want to check for
root development after 6 - 7 weeks, dig very gently, 2” - 3” away from the cane. Be careful not
to damage delicate new sprouts that have not yet broken the soil surface. If the plants are
not leafing out or sprouting new growth from the roots after 7 - 8 weeks, call us.

Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 9

 BRAMBLES
RASP BERRI ES & BLAC K B E R R I E S

Irrigation
Water thoroughly after planting and maintain good soil moisture until plants are well
established. The plants should then receive 1” - 2” of rainfall or the equivalent each week
throughout the season. Do not water every day – one to three times per week is sufficient.
Fertilization
You may thoroughly incorporate a light amount of fertilizer at least 2 weeks prior to planting.
Do not fertilize when planting, wait until new transplants are well established. For optimum
growth and production, home gardeners should apply ½ lb. - ¾ lb. of 10-10-10 fertilizer per
100 sq. ft. each spring and an additional 1 lb. of 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft. in mid-summer. Do
not fertilize after July 1st, late fertilization generates tender new growth which will be more
susceptible to winter injury.

Commercial growers should use 500 lbs. of 10-10-10 per acre or make applications according
to soil tests. Additional applications may be necessary according to weather and/or leaching
conditions.
Weed Control/Mulch
Regular cultivation around plants is necessary during the growing season. Because raspberry
root systems are shallow, be careful not to cultivate more than an inch deep. Mulching
lightly with weed-free straw during establishment can help control weeds and help the soil
retain moisture. A heavy or deep layer of mulch will impede the growth of new canes which
need to develop every year. Do not mulch brambles beyond the first year. Leaves or grass
clippings are not recommended as they can mat; smothering plants and can harbor pests.
Trellising
We suggest all brambles be supported by a trellis. A trellis keeps canes upright and fruit off
the ground, makes picking much easier, reduces wind damage, and maintains good aeration
throughout the planting which helps with disease control.

We have been successful using a T-trellis which supports 2 wires 12” apart at 3.5’ to 5’
above the ground (see diagram). Trellises
may be temporary to facilitate mowing in
the spring. We suggest installing 6’ - 8‘-long
metal fence posts 1½’ - 2’ into the soil. Bolt
on a 12” - 18” piece of angle iron to create the
horizontal crossbars. Drill holes on each end of
the angle iron to secure twine. You may also
use wood posts and crossbars. The T is made
by thru-bolting 12” - 18” two-by-fours.
Posts should be spaced 15’ - 25’ apart along
the row. Rows longer than 100’ should
have pressure-treated 4” × 4” end posts.
Monofilament trellis wire should be considered
instead of twine. Self-locking clamps are
used to hold the wire to the end post or it
can be tied. We use reusable nursery clips to
attach each cane to the wire. Canes may also be Please consult your local extension
loosely secured
service for chemical control
with twine.
recommendations.

10 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com

 BRAMBLES
R A S P B E R RIES & BL ACK BERRIES

• Primocane-Bearing (Fall-Bearing/Everbearing) Red & Yellow Raspberries

Installation is usually done sometime in July after raspberries produce their first flowers.
Poly twine works well and comes in many sizes, we recommend #450 1-ply. We remove
twine and posts after plants have seen 2 freezes.
• Floricane-Bearing (Summer-Bearing) Red, Yellow & Purple Raspberries
Some taller-growing varieties, such as Nova and
Prelude, might benefit from a T-trellis with two
horizontal crossbars — one at 3’ - 3.5’ and one at
4.5’ - 5’. Removing leaves from lower
18” - 24” will allow better air circulation, while
increasing light penetration for new primocane
growth.
• Blackberries and Black Raspberries
A trellis or staking is highly recommended for
semi-erect or trailing blackberries in order to keep
fruit clean, maximize air circulation, and minimize
cane breakage. Blackberries and black raspberries
are best trained to a 2- or 3-wire trellis with the
support of a 4” × 4” every 25 feet (see diagram). A 3- or 4-wire trellis is commonly used for
Attach the main canes to the wire with a clip or a blackberry, black raspberry, and purple raspberry
slightly loose twist tie.
Sometimes thornless blackberries are managed in a “staked-hill” system. Set 5’ - 6’ tall,
2” diameter stakes approximately 1’ deep and 5’ – 8’ apart in all directions. Set a plant 1’
away from each stake. Secure the primocanes loosely in 2 - 3 places along the height of
the stake. This is an easy to maintain system and can be an attractive addition to the home
garden landscape.

Pruning
• Primocane-Bearing (Fall-Bearing) Red and
Yellow Raspberries
The main crop is borne in the late summer
and fall on the tips of canes that emerge in
the spring and grow throughout the summer.
Most fall-bearers will produce the best crop if
canes are cut down each year and only allowed
to fruit in the fall. Some varieties will grow
a productive summer crop in addition to a
plentiful late season crop; we call these ever-
bearers. Staked hill management

For fall production only, prune or mow all the canes to the ground in late winter/early
spring, this is especially beneficial in colder areas. Be sure to cut the canes as closely as
possible to the soil surface, leaving little or no stub above the ground. New, strong canes
that emerge in the spring will bear an abundant fall crop.
In order to develop two crops, the planting must be pruned as summer bearing varieties.
When allowed to stand through winter, a second crop is produced early the following
summer, lower on those over-wintered canes. After harvesting the summer crop, cut the
over-wintered canes to the ground, leaving the new primocanes to produce the fall crop.
Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 11
 BRAMBLES
RASP BERRI ES & BLAC K B E R R I E S

• Floricane-Bearing (Summer-Bearing) Red and Yellow Raspberries

These varieties carry one crop of berries during the summer on over-wintered canes.
For best yields, immediately after harvest, cut the canes that carried fruit as close to the
ground as possible. Thin remaining new growth to 6 - 8 strong, healthy canes per running
foot of row. In late fall, cut canes down to 4.5’ - 5’ to manage the picking height.
• Floricane-Bearing (Summer-Bearing) Black and Purple Raspberries
Black and Purple raspberries break buds from their crown or base and send out few, if
any, suckers. Prune plants to 4 - 6 canes per hill. These plants respond well to a process
called tipping, whereby the 1st year canes, DIAGRAM 2
primocanes, are pinched back (remove
about 2”) as they reach a height of 5’ - 6’
through July and August. This practice
encourages fruiting lateral branches to
break from the main cane and also keeps
plant height in check. Laterals should be
pruned to 6” - 8” in the late fall. Pinching Before Pruning After Pruning
back laterals can help increase berry size
Black and purple raspberries
and increase winter hardiness. Courtesty of Ohio State University Extension

• Floricane-Bearing (Summer-Bearing) Blackberries
Tip 1st-year canes when they reach a 5’ - 6’ height in midsummer or 6” over the top wire.
Tipping stops terminal growth and establishes fruiting laterals. Thin the remaining canes
(primocanes) to 6 - 8 canes per running yard of row or per hill. Laterals should be cut
back to 6” - 8” in late fall. Fruiting canes should be cut to the ground as soon as possible
after harvest has completed. Primocanes
DIAGRAM 1
overwinter and develop fruit the following
season.

Thornless blackberries growing in the

staked management system are pruned at
the height of the stake. Follow additional
pruning instructions above. Thornless blackberries before and after
dormant pruning.
• Primocane-Bearing (Fall-Bearing/ Courtesty of Ohio State University Extension

Everbearing) Blackberries
Primocane blackberries respond very favorably to tipping. As the primocanes reach
12” - 15” in height, break or cut ¾” - 1” off the tip to force the cane into branching. A
second tipping should be performed as the lateral branches reach 30”, again breaking
or cutting ¾” - 1” off the tips. The tips are tender and may be pinched between your
thumbnail and a finger or use pruning shears. This process stimulates earlier fruit
development, increases yield and also keeps plant height in check for easier management
and harvest.
• Primocane-Bearing (Fall-Bearing/Everbearing) Black Raspberries
Tipping or tip pruning is highly recommended for primocane-bearing black raspberries.
As the new primocanes reach 3’ pinch or cut the tips to force branches to develop. Tipping
will delay, but prolong the harvest, increase yield and reduce arching of the canes and tip
rooting. Pruning later in the season decreases the amount of time the plant will have to
develop branches. Leaving the primocanes unpruned will allow earlier ripening than the
tip-pruning option; but the canes will become tall and arching, and will develop fewer
berries.

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 BRAMBLES
R A S P B E R RIES & BL ACK BERRIES

Care and Handling of Tissue Culture Bramble Plants

We make every effort to our ‘Tissue-Culture’ (TC/T32) plants DORMANT. There are times
when, depending shipping date and availability where plants must be shipped GREEN. We
will only ship Green plants when appropriate for planting. Dormant TC plants will likely have
no leaves, except for blackberries which normally hold leaves even after chilling. Green TC
plants come directly out of our greenhouse, will have a few green leaves and will be very
sensitive to frost.
Receiving Dormant Tissue Culture (TC) Plants
These are not highly sensitive to frost damage and can be planted at the same time as
dormant, bare-root stock when soils have warmed to about 50°F. In addition, they are much
less sensitive to water stress. Dormant TC plants can be held at 30° - 32°F until planted.
Upon receiving your plants:
1. Open the box and open the plastic liner. Dormant (TC) plug, with and without leaves
2. Check the moisture – cells should be moist
before planting.
3. Proceed with planting.
If not planted immediately:
Store box in refrigeration, for up to one week.

Receiving Green (TC) Plants

Upon receiving your plants:
Same as above
If not planted immediately:
1. Do not store in refrigeration.
2. Cut the box top off and cut holes in the bottom of the box.
3. Maintain good moisture, but don’t over water – the plastic liner can hold moisture.
4. Hold in a cool, well-lit area.
5. Proceed with planting only after danger of frost has passed.

Planting
• Cover the soil plug with ½” - 1” of soil, using the same spacing as bare-root plants.
• Fertilize TC plug plants the same as bare-rooted plants, using ½ lb .- ¾ lb. 10-10-10 per
100 sq. ft. incorporated at least 2 - 3 weeks prior to planting or wait until plants are well
established and then side-dress with 10-10-10 to maintain vigorous growth.
• Irrigate well after planting. Maintain good moisture levels until the plants are well
established or for 4 - 6 weeks.
• Use care when applying herbicide on TC plants. We have had good results using 4 lbs. per
acre of Devrinol 50W. In our experience, other herbicides will damage these plants.

Warning: Only plant GREEN tissue-culture plants after

danger of frost has passed.
If you have any questions
Note: Foliar applications of soluble fertilizer have proven regarding handling, planting
successful in establishing green plug plants. Two or three or caring for tissue-culture
applications 3 - 4 days apart using 5 - 7 lbs. per acre of plants, please contact us at
actual Nitrogen will provide enough to establish the plants 413-665-2658 or at
quickly. You may use any soluble fertilizer that you would use [email protected]
on houseplants (such as calcium nitrate). Once plants are
established, side dress as usual (Page 10).
Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 13
 A S PA R A G U S

Asparagus— AT-A-GLANCE
A long term pH: 7.2 or higher
investment!
A well prepared, well In-row spacing, green:
cared for asparagus bed 12” - 14” between plants
can be productive for
ten years or more! In-row spacing, purple:
6” - 8” for purple varieties

Between rows: 5’

Planting
Choose a permanent location with well-drained soil, in full sun.
It is best if you prepare the site a year in advance. Remove all perennial weeds. Have a
test done to be sure the soil is in the correct pH range and that it contains high levels of
phosphorous. An application of lime may be needed to adjust the pH. If the phosphorous
level is low, we recommend adding bone meal (½ lb. per 10’ row) or super phosphate into
the trench at planting. Spread phosphorous and lime thoroughly at the bottom of the 8” - 10”
deep planting furrow. Top-dressing with phosphorus is not effective.
For heavier, clay-like soils, 6” - 8” deep furrows are recommended. Planting crowns too
shallowly encourages early spear emergence, higher probability of frost injury and greater
possibility of winter kill of crowns. In the early spring, at least 2 - 3 weeks prior to planting,
incorporate 5 lbs. of 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft. If you have not fertilized 2 - 3 weeks before
planting, side-dress 4 - 6 weeks later, when the plants are growing well.
Lay roots along the bottom of the furrow and cover with 2” - 3” of soil. Roots are planted
horizontally, parallel to the bottom of the trench and the soil surface, not vertically like
strawberry plants.
As the spears grow up and expand into fern, gradually fill in the trench with soil. You may
mix up to 50% well-aged compost into the soil or add 1 lb. 10-10-10 or equivalent balanced
fertilizer into the soil as you fill the trench. Within six weeks, the furrow should be completely
filled. Using this
method helps
to limit weed
A B
development. You Lay the roots along the trench with the crowns facing
may wait until up (A, above), or lay them on their sides with the crowns Continue filling the trench a
little at a time as plants grow.
all the ferns are facing one direction (B, above). Use the recommended
spacing for the specific variety.
growing above the
trench and fill the Add about 2” soil, not
covering small ferns
trench at one time. Plants begin
to grow.
Cover with
2” of soil.
Lay the roots.

8” - 10”

loosened
soil
pressed
firmly STAGE 1 STAGE 2 STAGE 3 STAGE 4 STAGE 5 STAGE 6

14 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com

 A S PA R A G U S
Irrigation
Plants need a well-drained site. Maintaining moisture during the establishment year is very
important. Lighter soils may require more frequent watering than heavier soils, which retain
moisture better.
Fertilization
Establishment year: Do not add compost or fertilizer until plants are growing. After plants
have started to grow, fertilize during the period the trench is being filled. You may mix up to
50% well-aged compost into the soil or add 1 lb. 10-10-10 or equivalent balanced fertilizer
into the soil as you fill the trench. Side-dress in early August with 1 lb. of 10-10-10 per 100 sq.
ft. (or equivalent) and lightly work into the top 2” of soil.
Succeeding years: Use 2 lbs. 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft. in early spring and again following
harvest. To maintain optimum soil condition, test your soil pH every 3 - 4 years and amend as
necessary. Broadcast lime, bone meal, and super phosphate according to soil test results and
recommendations, keeping the pH between 7.2 or higher.
Weed Control/Mulching
During the harvest period, manually pull weeds so emerging spears are not injured. Ferns
will die back naturally in the fall. Mulchthe dried ferns with a mower in the spring to reduce
weed pressure. Check with local extension before using chemical products. If tilling the soil
during the rest of the growing season, only till ½” - 1” of the soil surface. Deep tilling can
damage your crowns and bring weed seeds up to the surface.
Bed Maintenance
Control weeds all season and irrigate as needed. Look out for asparagus beetles and their
larvae, aphids and the asparagus miner. These insects can cause serious damage to an
established bed. For chemical weed and pest control recommendations, contact your local
cooperative extension office.
Do not remove or cut any ferns during the growing season. Cut the old ferns down to
ground level in the early spring before new spears begin to emerge.
Harvesting Spears
Research shows that you can begin to harvest asparagus the year after establishment. Cut
or snap all 5“ - 8” spears that appear for a period of 7 - 10 days. Make sure you cut or snap
stalks close to the soil surface, not leaving stubs. Stubs can be potential entry points for pests
and diseases. Be careful not to damage emerging spears when cutting spears below the soil
surface. When spears begin to get spindly, stop harvesting for the season and allow all new
spears to develop into ferns to feed the crown. The second season, you can harvest all the
spears that appear for a period of 3 - 4 weeks. By the third year, you can harvest for the full
season, which is usually 6 - 8 weeks long.

TIPS:
• If frosted, tips become brown. Remove the spear immediately to prevent further
setback of the planting.
• During harvest, asparagus roots need about 2” - 3” of water per week. Do not let the soil
get too dry.
• It is best to incorporate bone meal or super phosphate into the soil at the bottom of
the planting trench.
• Asparagus grows tall with fern-like foliage which could make an attractive garden
border or backdrop.
With a little care you should enjoy an asparagus bed for many years!

Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 15

 HORSERADISH

ATTENTION! AT-A-GLANCE
The size and diameter pH: 6.2 - 6.7
of the horseradish root
does not determine the In-row spacing: 10” - 12”
ultimate size of the plant.
Between rows: 3’

Planting
Plant horseradish in a well-prepared, weed free bed. Give this hardy perennial plenty of space
in your garden bed as it spreads readily. Place the root piece at a 45° angle in the soil with
the flat (larger) end up and the slanted end down. The flat end
should be 1” - 2” below the soil surface. Five to ten plants are
usually sufficient for a home garden.
Irrigation
Keep soil moist throughout the establishment period. Irrigate
through the growing season, but take care not to overwater. Bottom/slanted cut
Fertilization
Horseradish does not need a lot of fertilization, fertilize in spring
with 5 lbs. of 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft.
Weed Control & Mulching
Regular, manual weeding is recommended. Consult a local
Top/flat cut
extension before using chemical products.
Harvesting
It is best if you don’t harvest the 1st year to allow the plants to get well established. In
subsequent years, you may harvest horseradish roots anytime from midsummer on, but
for the best flavor, wait until late fall or until after the first frosts when the leaves have died
back. Dig or loosen the soil around the roots and pull them out of the soil. Take the large,
main root and as much of the secondary root system as possible. Wash and dry the roots.
Use the largest pieces for your recipe. Smaller, side roots that are ¾” in diameter and about
8” or longer, can be replanted in a new bed. They will provide your next year’s crop. If not
harvested, the roots will need to be divided every year or two.

Horseradish is a vigorous An easy recipe: (Adapted from a University of Illinois Extension Bulletin)
grower! With a small Wash, peel, and dice horseradish roots. Place them in a grinder
amount of attention, it or blender with a small amount of water and a couple of ice
cubes. Cover tightly and grind until desired consistency is
will flourish in almost
reached. Vinegar or lemon juice stops the enzyme process
any garden setting. They that gives horseradish its bite. Add 2 - 3 tablespoons of
may take over your vinegar or lemon juice and ½ teaspoon of salt per cup of
garden. Be careful not horseradish sauce. Add immediately for a mild sauce; wait up
to plant too close to your to 3 minutes for a hot sauce. Store in a covered glass jar in the
favorite flowers. refrigerator or the freezer. You can also add grated horseradish
root to yogurt, mayonnaise, sour cream, cream cheese, salad
dressings, BBQ sauce, mustard, etc. to make dips, spreads and marinades.

16 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com

 RHUBARB

AT-A-GLANCE Rhubarb (Pie plant) is

pH: 6.0 - 6.8 easy to grow and makes
a wonderful addition to
In-row spacing: 3’ strawberry pie and as the
base for many jellies,
Between rows: 5’ - 6’ desserts, sauces, and
condiments.

Planting
Do not fertilize close to planting time or during the first season. Plant in the early spring, in
well-prepared, weed-free soil. To increase organic matter, work 2” - 3” of well-aged compost
into the top 6” - 8” of soil prior to planting. Good drainage is absolutely necessary. If you
have heavy or slowly-draining soil, you must plant rhubarb in raised beds. Set divisions in
the ground so the buds are positioned ½” below the soil surface, pointing up. You will find
the buds nestled in a protective layer of dark papery husks. When planting, be sure there are
no air pockets beneath the division and press the soil firmly around and over the division to
eliminate air pockets. Be careful, not to break the buds.
WARNING! The only edible portion of rhubarb is its stalks.
DO NOT EAT THE LEAVES – they are poisonous. Remove at harvest and discard.
Fertilization
Fertilizer requirements are best determined by a soil test, but a general recommendation
is to add an inch or so of well-aged compost early each spring or 1 lb. - 11/2 lbs. 10-10-10
fertilizer per 100 square feet. It would be best to divide that amount of fertilizer into 2 - 3
applications during the spring and summer with the first application before new growth
starts. Do not fertilize after July 1st, late fertilization generates tender new growth which will
be more susceptible to winter injury. Check your pH and fertility every 2 - 3 years.
Harvesting
Do not harvest rhubarb the first year. Harvest lightly (a few stalks per plant) the second year.
The third year you may harvest stalks that are 1” and larger in diameter for a period of 6 - 8
weeks. As stems get shorter and thinner, stop harvesting for the season. Leave remaining
stalks to make food for the crown and next year’s production. Harvest by holding the stalk
near the base and use a pulling and twisting motion to snap the stalk at the base. You may
use a sharp knife to cut stalks. Cut as close to the base as possible without damaging the
crown. Remove the leaf and the base of the stalk before storing. DO NOT EAT THE LEAVES
as they are poisonous. Only harvest about 1/3 - 1/2 of the stalks at one time from each plant.
Though some harvesting in the fall is acceptable, rhubarb is typically harvested from early
May to early June.
Maintenance
Seed stalks that develop should be snapped off immediately. To maintain stalk size and
productivity, divide plants after 4 - 5 years. Dig when plants are dormant, in early spring
and take care not to damage the buds while cutting or replanting. Divide the roots of
the most vigorous plants into pieces about 2” wide being sure each piece has good bud
development. Use these to establish your new bed. Follow the planting instructions above.

Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 17

 BLUEBERRIES

ATTENTION! AT-A-GLANCE
Blueberries must have a soil pH: 4.5 - 4.8
pH between 4.5 and 4.8. Have
your soil tested. If the pH level In-row spacing: 4’ - 5’
is outside the specified range,
begin amending it right away. Between rows: 10’ - 12’
Excessive amounts of sulfur
can be toxic to your plants.

Blueberries are a tasty and nutritious fruit, borne on a plant beautiful enough to grow as an
ornamental. A well-prepared site, planted properly, will pay dividends of a lifetime of fruit.
They are easy to grow and relatively pest-free.

Soil pH
The term pH refers to the acidity or alkalinity of soil. The pH level is important to know
because it affects a plant’s ability to obtain nutrients from the soil and each type of plant has
different soil pH requirements. Soil pH should be between 4.5 and 4.8 for blueberry plants. A
pH of 5.0 is too high!
For best results when planting blueberries, amend pH levels BEFORE planting. However,
by following our planting instructions, you can establish plants successfully without prior
pH adjustments. Addition of sulfur is often necessary to adjust the pH. Elemental sulfur
is the best material to use to reduce pH. Amend soil with sulfur, not ammonium sulfate
or aluminum sulfate. It is important to test the soil’s pH level so you are able to amend it
properly. Consult your local cooperative extension service for advice on how to test your soil.
(See our website for detailed information)
Caution: Excess sulfur, resulting in a pH that is too low, can be toxic! Do a soil test and
apply the proper amount of sulfur. Do not guess.

Planting
Wood chips can be mixed into the soil prior to planting. Wood chips aerate the soil,
increasing drainage and root penetration. This method is good for all types of soil, but most
beneficial in heavier, silt loam or clay loam soils. Put a 2” - 3” deep layer of wood chips over
your planting row and incorporate it thoroughly into the top 6” - 8” of soil. Then you’re ready
to plant.
If you use peat moss, thoroughly mix 40% peat with 60% soil making sure the peat is
thoroughly saturated with water before mixing. Place this mixture under and around each
plant. Make sure the peat/soil mix is thoroughly covered with ½” - 1” of plain soil after
backfilling the hole. This practice is to benefit the first 60 - 90 days of root development for
strong plant establishment. Any peat not covered with soil will quickly wick moisture away
from the plant and cause the roots to dry out rapidly.
Tip: Instead of removing sod, measure a 4’ wide strip the length of your required row and
apply Roundup™ to the row when the grass is 4” - 6” tall.
Warning: Shavings or sawdust with manure has too much nitrogen for first-year plants.

18 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com

 BLUEBERRIES

Irrigation
Because of a very shallow, fibrous root system, frequent, short-duration watering is required.
Maintain moisture, and do not allow roots to dry out. Water 1 - 3 times per week, not every
day. Drip irrigation placed beneath the mulch layer is healthiest and most efficient method.
Water is applied directly to the root zone where it is needed, while keeping moisture off the
plants, thereby reducing disease pressure
Blueberry plants cannot efficiently draw nutrients from the soil if the pH is not within a
certain range. This leads to stressed or malnourished plants which will not produce the best
Blueberry plants cannot efficiently draw nutrients from the soil if the pH is not within a certain range.
crops
This leadspossible and
to stressed or will be moreplants
malnourished susceptible tonot
which will problems.
produce the Forbest
long-term, optimum
crops possible and success,
will be more susceptible
measure to problems.
pH levels every year orFortwo
long-term, optimum
and amend as success,
needed.measure pH levels every
year or two and amend as needed.
rry
k How
HOW TO to Amend
AMEND your
YOUR SOIL FORSoil for the Healthiest,
THE HEALTHIEST, Most
MOST PRODUCTIVE Productive
BLUEBERRY PLANTSBlueberry Plants
Contact your local cooperative extension (see noursefarms.com for details) for additional
Contact your local Cooperative Extension (see back cover) for additional advice on the proper procedure and
adviceforon
materials theand
testing proper
loweringprocedure
the soil pH, weand materials
recommend using for testing
elemental sulfur.and lowering
Amendments like the soil pH, we
sawdust,
or recommend
aged wood chips, old using
leaveselemental sulfur.
or finished compost, canAmendments
provide minimal pHlike sawdust,
changes aged
but generally wood
do not chips, old leaves
last long.
g Sulfur is the mostcompost,
or finished effective method
canforprovide
lowering soil pH but a combination
minimal pH changes of the but
abovegenerally
materials candogivenot
adequate
last long. Sulfur
results.
is the most effective method for lowering soil pH but a combination of the above materials
canthegive
Use table adequate results.
below to determine Use sulfur
how much the table
to apply.below to determine how much sulfur to apply.

Required Amount of 90%Sulfur

in Pounds per 100 Square Feet
10 to Lower Soil pH for Blueberries
to Present
soil pH
he SAND LOAM CLAY

s 4.5 0.0 0.0 0.0

Optimum 5.0 0.4 1.2 1.4
pH value
for 5.5 0.8 2.4 2.6
growing 6.0 1.2 3.5 3.7
blueberry
plants is 6.5 1.5 4.6 4.8
g
4.5 7.0 1.9 5.8 6.0
7.5 2.3 6.9 7.1
Source: Midwest Small Fruit Pest Management Handbook, Bulletin 680
Cut
es Note:TheThe
Note: amount
amount of sulfuroftosulfur to be incorporated
be incorporated varies according tovaries
the soilaccording to the
type: sand (light), loamsoil type: sand (light),
(medium),
loam
clay (medium),
(heavy), as well asclay (heavy),
the present as ofwell
pH level youras
soil.the present pH level of your soil.

Example: 5 plants spaced 5’ apart requires a space 4’

25’ × 4’, or 100 sq. ft. If your soil pH tests at 6.5, and your soil
Example:
is a loam5 plants
soil, itspaced
would 5’ apart requires
require a pounds of sulfur per 100
4.6 5’ + 5’ + 5’ + 5’ + 5’
space 25’ × 4’, or 100 sq. ft. If your soil pH tests
sq. ft.
at 6.5, and your soil is a loam soil, it would 25’
require 4.6 pounds of sulfur per 100 sq. ft.
row width x row length = square feet
At 5’ spacing on a 4’ bed each plant takes up 20 sq. ft.
4’ x 25’ = 100 sq. ft.

Blueberry Trouble-Shooting
At 5’ spacing on a 4’ bed each plant takes up 20 sq. ft.
Yellow leaves on blueberries can be quickly corrected with a foliar application of one
tablespoon chelated iron per gallon of water sprayed over the leaves. You should see
Blueberry Trouble-Shooting
Yellow leaves
greener on blueberries
leaves in a fewcandays.
be quickly corrected
Often, thewith a foliar application
underlying of one tablespoon
problem Chelated
is that the soil Iron
pHper
is too high.
gallon ofyour
Have water soil
sprayed over the
tested leaves.
and makeYou required
should see greener leaves in a few days. Often, the underlying
amendments.
problem is that the soil pH is too high. Have your soil tested and make required amendments.
You should
You should see 12”
see 12-18” - 18”
of new of new
growth growth
each year. eachyour
If not, check year.
soil If
pHnot,
and/orcheck your
use a little moresoil pH and/or
fertilizer. Be use a little
more
sure yourfertilizer. Be sureenough
plants are receiving yourwater,
plants are receiving
especially enough water, especially during dry spells.
during dry spells.

19 Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 19

 BLUEBERRIES

Fertilization
First Year: To avoid burning the roots, wait 4 - 6 weeks
after planting before fertilizing however do not fertilize
after July 1st. Apply 1 oz. ammonium sulfate in a circular
band around each plant.
Subsequent Years: Apply 2 oz. per plant at bloom time,
and again a month later.
Home gardeners may use fertilizers available at local
garden centers that are formulated for blueberry
plants. Do not apply fertilizer after July 1st. Late-season
fertilizing could lead to new, tender growth which is
susceptible to winter injury and may lead to entry points
for disease.
Warning: Do not use fertilizer that contains potassium chloride, blueberries can be
adversely affected. We also do not recommend aluminum sulfate.

Weed Control/Mulching
Maintain a 3” - 4” layer of aged wood chips as mulch to support water retention. Avoid treated
or colored wood chips or mulch. Do not use Cedar or Black Walnut chips. Also avoid using
leaves, or an excessive amount of sawdust, as both can mat down and prevent moisture from
reaching the plant’s roots. Regular, manual weeding will be necessary. We highly recommend
using drip irrigation
placed under the mulch.

Pruning
Remove all flowers
during the first 2 - 3
years-do not allow
berries to develop.
No pruning is needed
during first 3 years,
unless you discover
broken, damaged or
diseased branches. After
the first three years,
blueberries should be
pruned annually during
the dormant period. Your goal is to have approximately 12 canes per plant. Older, heavy
branches in the center should be removed to improve air circulation and light penetration.
Remove lower, weak and damaged branches and branches less than 6 inches long. These
branches will never fruit and can serve as an entrance point for disease.
New wood produces the largest fruit. Canes should be a mix of 1 - 3 year old and any canes
over 2” in diameter should be removed.

For detailed pruning information, we highly recommend:

• Oregon State University’s how-to video: A Grower’s Guide to Pruning High bush
Blueberries (Available from Nourse Farms)
• Rutgers University also publishes a Blueberry Bulletin, which is very informative

20 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com

 C UR R A NTS & GOOSE BE RRIE S

AT-A-GLANCE Greatly appreciated

pH: 6.0 - 6.5 for generations
in Europe for their
Red, white, & pink currants adaptability as plants
& gooseberries and their versatility
In-row spacing: 3’ - 4’ as food, currants and
Between rows: 6’ - 8’ gooseberries, known
collectively as Ribes, are
Black currants: growing in popularity in
In-row spacing: 4’ - 5’ this country.
Between rows: 8’ - 12’

Currants and gooseberries are small fruits that were well known in this country earlier in the
last century and have recently been making a comeback. These are ideal fruits for regions
with a minimum of 1000 hours of winter chilling (zones 3 - 6). They are round shrubs that
grow at least 3’ - 4’ tall and wide, depending on variety. Expect to harvest currants and
gooseberries during late June and July. Plants that are well cared for may fruit well for 10 - 15
years.
Restrictions: Today’s currant and gooseberry varieties, and the varieties Nourse Farms
carries, have been bred for tolerance to White Pine Blister Rust disease. Check with your
local cooperative extension office or Department of Agriculture for any restrictions on
growing Ribes in your area.
NOTE: Some Massachusetts towns do not allow Ribes of any variety. We cannot ship these
plants to Massachusetts residents without a permit. We can ship out-of-state.

Planting
Choose a sunny location, but avoid southern exposure and southern facing slopes since
intense sun may injure the plants. Currants and gooseberry plants will tolerate partial shade.
Plant currants and gooseberries in good, well-draining soil which contains at least 2% - 3%
organic matter. Planting on a slight slope will facilitate air circulation. Dormant, bare-root
plants should be set slightly deeper than they were in the nursery. Cover the plug with ½” of
soil and do not prune.
Generally, currants and gooseberries are self-fertile and pollination by another variety is not
required. Across a larger number of plants, yields may be measurably larger when planting
multiple varieties because cross-pollination can result in slightly larger berries and thereby, a
larger harvest.
Plant spacing depends on the growth habit of the variety, site conditions, soil fertility, and
equipment size. Generally, gooseberry and currants are spaced 3’ - 4’ apart in a row with
6’ - 8’ between rows. If space is limited, you may grow the plants in cordon form and position
them closer together. Closer spacing is acceptable for growing in hedgerows. Avoid planting
too densely because adequate air circulation is critical for suppression of foliar disease.

Irrigation
Maintain adequate moisture levels, especially immediately following planting. Plants
should receive 1” - 2” of rainfall or the equivalent per week throughout the growing season.
Gooseberry fruit will sunburn more easily if soil is too dry. Planting on a slope facilitates
water drainage. If you use overhead irrigation, irrigate early in the day so the plant will dry
before evening. This practice will help impede diseases. Drip irrigation is the most efficient
irrigation method and healthiest for the plants.

Nourse Planting & Culture Guide 21

CURR A N TS & GO O S E B E RRI E S

Fertilization
No fertilization is required during the planting year. In following years, apply 5 oz. of 10-10-10
per plant. Apply the fertilizer in the spring, or apply half the amount (2½ oz.) in the spring
and apply the 2 ½ oz. balance in mid to late summer. Don’t fertilize in after July 1st. Currant
and gooseberry plants respond well to organic amendments.

Weed Control/ Mulching

Shallow cultivation by scuffle hoe or regular manual weeding is necessary. Use of mulch
helps inhibit weeds. Straw or wood chips can be applied at a 2” - 4” depth. Avoid treated or
colored wood chips and mulch. Do not use Cedar or Black Walnut chips. Avoid using leaves
or sawdust, as both can mat and prevent moisture from reaching the plant’s roots. Contact
your local extension office before using any chemical products for weed control.

Pruning © Courtesty of Danny L. Barney, PhD and Kim E. Hummer, PhD and
Food Products Press® “Currants, Gooseberries, and Jostaberries: A Guide
Currant and gooseberry plants are typically for Growers, Marketers, and Researchers in North America “

grown as free-standing, multi-stemmed

shrubs. They should be pruned during the late
winter or early spring while they are dormant.
Remove unwanted canes as closely to the
ground as possible. Always treat or prune
out damaged or diseased canes or branches
right away by cutting immediately above a
side branch, above a strong bud or at ground
level. Some pruning may be done during the
growing season to remove crossing, rubbing,
or drooping branches and keep the plant from
becoming too dense. You may also prune
Ribes as single-trunk shrubs or in cordon forms,
but much more time and effort must be put
into pruning and there is some risk since plants rely on a single stem. Cordons require a trellis
or other support.

Free-Standing Shrub
This is the simplest form to maintain. Most fruit is produced on short spurs on 2 - 3 year-old
canes and at the base of last year’s lateral growth. Keep 6 - 8 strong, healthy canes, 3 - 4 each
of 1, 2, and 3 year-old canes. Remove canes that grow into center of the plant as well as
drooping canes that lie on or close to the ground. This will increase light penetration and air
circulation. You may prune a few laterals if the plant becomes too dense during the growing
season.

Cordon
Growing currants or gooseberry plants in a cordon form
is common, especially if you don’t have a lot of space for
gardening. Commercial growers often use this method
for additional benefits. Cordon growing will improve air
circulation, berry size, and spray coverage while making
harvesting easier, especially with thorny gooseberries.
Plants are pruned so they have 1 - 3 strong, vertical branches which are trained to grow flat
against a trellis. (see diagram) Other cordon forms may be created to suit a home garden
space. If you are considering cordon training, contact us or your local extension office for
more information.
22 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com
 ELDERBERRIES

AT-A-GLANCE The elderberry makes

pH: 6.0 - 6.8 a great wine or jam
and is prized for its
medicinal qualities.
In-row spacing: 3’ - 6’
The flowers can also
be used to make syrup
Between rows: 10’ - 12’
and other recipes.

Elderberries are very easy to grow and good for you due to a very high anthocyanin content.
Berries are popular for their unique flavor in pies, sauces, jellies, and jams. Occasionally, they
are used in winemaking and you can even find recipes for the blossoms! Elderberry shrubs
have lovely foliage and large, creamy-white flower clusters; they are great in the landscape as
ornamental plants or as hedgerows. While they can reach 12’, they well-tolerate pruning to
maintain a smaller size for a modest home landscape. Samyl and Samdal are very productive
varieties, and have additional qualities that make them excellent choices for commercial
growers.

Planting
Cover the plug with ½” of soil and do not prune.

Irrigation
Elderberries are not drought tolerant. It is important to keep soil moist throughout the
establishment period. From flowering through harvest, be certain the plants receive 1” of water
per week. More water may be necessary if the soil is more sandy and during periods of very hot
weather. Drip irrigation is the healthiest and most efficient method.

Fertilization
No fertilizer should be applied in the planting year. In succeeding springs, spread 1 cup 10-10-10
around each plant. Apply manure or compost only after plants begin to grow.

Weed Control/Mulching
Thorough manual weeding is necessary, but do not cultivate deeply. Roots are fibrous, shallow
and easily injured. Use a combination of hand weeding (when weeds are small), mowing and
mulching. Wood chip mulch can aid in water retention. Compost or straw mulch can also be
used. Once established, a thick planting will generally suppress weeds on its own.

Harvest
Berries are generally harvested in late summer. Harvest entire clusters from the shrub. Use the
fruit as soon as possible or keep it cool for later use. Strip the berries from the cluster for use.

Pruning
New canes usually reach full height in one season and develop lateral branches in the second.
Flowers and fruit develop on the tips of the current season’s growth, so the best fruit production
happens on second-year canes with good lateral branching. Older wood tends to become weak
and loses productivity. In early spring, while the plants are dormant, remove all weak, broken,
4-year-old, and dead canes as close to the ground as possible. Your goal should be to have an
equal number of canes between one and three years old.

Tip: Though elderberry plants are generally free of pests, birds absolutely love elderberry and an
unprotected bush can be stripped clean as soon as berries reach their dark color! Netting seems
to be the best protection.

23 View How to Videos at noursefarms.com

 Check out our website!
We have a variety of resources available on our website
www.noursefarms.com

For Home Gardeners:

How to select your plants
How to grow your plants -
from strawberries to asparagus to blackberries
Best placement for your plants within your home garden
Hardiness zones
Video learning guides
FAQ’s
Reference library
Ask the expert

For Commercial Growers:

Plasticulture Guide
Trade Show Schedule
Information on Truck Shipments
Past Commercial Newsletters
Trial Plants
Berry Associations
Listing of USDA Extension offices
Commercial Price List

4. 02/20